文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
There’s a thorn in the side of anyone trying to attain the perfect lawn and its name is self heal weed. Self heal (Prunella vulgaris) is found throughout the United States and can be aggressive in turf grass. The question then is how to get rid of self heal weed and get back the lawn that all the neighbors envy.
Self Heal Weed Control
Self heal is also referred to as healall, carpenter’s weed, wild sage or just prunella weed. but whatever you call it, the fact remains that it thrives in grassy areas and is most certainly the bane of the obsessive lawn manicurist. Managing self heal plants, or rather eradicating them, is a difficult task. The weed is stoloniferous with a creeping habitat and shallow fibrous root system. Prior to managing self heal plants, you need to make a clear identification of the weed since all weeds are not created equal and control methods will vary. Prunella can be seen growing in dense patches most often in grassland, lawns and wood clearings. Stems of self heal weed are square and slightly hairy when immature, becoming smooth as the plant ages. Its leaves are opposite, smooth, oval and slightly pointed at the tip and may be minimally haired to smooth. Self heal’s creeping stems root easily at the nodes, resulting in an aggressive fibrous, matted root system. The blooms of this weed are dark violet to purple and about ½ inch in height.
How to Get Rid of Self Heal
Cultural methods for control alone will make it difficult to eradicate this weed. Hand removal can be attempted. It will be necessary to make repeated attempts at hand removal to keep this weed in check. Improving turf growing conditions to stimulate competitiveness can retard some self heal weeds as well. Self heal weed grows beneath mowing levels that are recommended and will, therefore, just pop back up. Additionally, areas of heavy foot traffic can actually encourage the growth of self heal because the stems will root at the nodes at ground level.
Otherwise, self heal weed control turns towards chemical control strategies. Products used for fighting self heal weed should contain 2,4-D, Cargentrazone, or Mesotrion for post emergence and MCPP, MCPA and dicamba for existing weed growth, for optimal results. A systemic weed control program that carries the herbicide throughout the turf and, hence, through the weed, killing the weed, root and all is recommended. Repeated applications will be necessary with the most favorable times for application in the fall and again in the spring during peak bloom.
Self Heal Weed Control
Self heal is also referred to as healall, carpenter’s weed, wild sage or just prunella weed. but whatever you call it, the fact remains that it thrives in grassy areas and is most certainly the bane of the obsessive lawn manicurist. Managing self heal plants, or rather eradicating them, is a difficult task. The weed is stoloniferous with a creeping habitat and shallow fibrous root system. Prior to managing self heal plants, you need to make a clear identification of the weed since all weeds are not created equal and control methods will vary. Prunella can be seen growing in dense patches most often in grassland, lawns and wood clearings. Stems of self heal weed are square and slightly hairy when immature, becoming smooth as the plant ages. Its leaves are opposite, smooth, oval and slightly pointed at the tip and may be minimally haired to smooth. Self heal’s creeping stems root easily at the nodes, resulting in an aggressive fibrous, matted root system. The blooms of this weed are dark violet to purple and about ½ inch in height.
How to Get Rid of Self Heal
Cultural methods for control alone will make it difficult to eradicate this weed. Hand removal can be attempted. It will be necessary to make repeated attempts at hand removal to keep this weed in check. Improving turf growing conditions to stimulate competitiveness can retard some self heal weeds as well. Self heal weed grows beneath mowing levels that are recommended and will, therefore, just pop back up. Additionally, areas of heavy foot traffic can actually encourage the growth of self heal because the stems will root at the nodes at ground level.
Otherwise, self heal weed control turns towards chemical control strategies. Products used for fighting self heal weed should contain 2,4-D, Cargentrazone, or Mesotrion for post emergence and MCPP, MCPA and dicamba for existing weed growth, for optimal results. A systemic weed control program that carries the herbicide throughout the turf and, hence, through the weed, killing the weed, root and all is recommended. Repeated applications will be necessary with the most favorable times for application in the fall and again in the spring during peak bloom.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping thyme, also known commonly as ‘Mother of Thyme,’ is an easily grown, spreading thyme variety. It is excellent planted as a lawn substitute or among stepping stones or pavers to create a living patio. Let’s learn more about creeping thyme plant care.
Creeping Thyme Facts
Thymus praecox is a low growing perennial hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 with fairly minimal requirements. An evergreen with lightly haired foliage, this tiny-growing creeping thyme varietal — rarely over 3 inches — will appear in low, dense mats, which sprawl randomly and quickly fill in areas as a ground cover. T. serpyllum is another creeping thyme variety.
Just like other thyme varieties, creeping thyme is edible with a flavor and aroma akin to mint when crushed or steeped for teas or tinctures. To harvest creeping thyme ground cover, either remove the leaves from the stems or dry by snipping from the plant and hanging upside down in a dark, well aerated area. Harvest creeping thyme in the morning when the essential oils of the plant are at their peak. Another creeping thyme fact is despite its enticing odor, growing creeping thyme ground cover is deer resistant, making it an ideal landscape candidate in areas frequented by them. Creeping thyme is also capable of withstanding tromping upon by rambunctious kids (making it kid resistant as well!), which makes it an exceptional planting choice anywhere that has frequent foot traffic. Flowering creeping thyme is very attractive to bees and is a nice addition to a garden focused on honeybees. In fact, the pollen from the blooming thyme will flavor the resulting honey.
How to Plant Creeping Thyme
As mentioned, growing creeping thyme is a simple process due to its compatibility in a variety of soils and light exposures. Although this ground cover prefers well-drained lightly textured soils, it will grow quite well in less than desirable medium and thrive from sun to light shade environments. Soil should be kept moist but not wet, as the growing creeping thyme plant is susceptible to root drowning and edema. The soil pH for growing creeping thyme plants should be neutral to slightly alkaline. Creeping thyme ground cover can be propagated via stem cuttings or divisions and, of course, can be purchased from the local nursery as either established plantings or seeds. Cuttings from the creeping thyme plant should be taken in the early summer. Start seeds when growing creeping thyme indoors or they may be sown in the spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Plant creeping thyme 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for its spreading habitat. Prune creeping thyme ground cover in the spring to maintain a compact appearance and again after the small white flowers are spent if additional shaping is preferred.
Creeping Thyme Facts
Thymus praecox is a low growing perennial hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 with fairly minimal requirements. An evergreen with lightly haired foliage, this tiny-growing creeping thyme varietal — rarely over 3 inches — will appear in low, dense mats, which sprawl randomly and quickly fill in areas as a ground cover. T. serpyllum is another creeping thyme variety.
Just like other thyme varieties, creeping thyme is edible with a flavor and aroma akin to mint when crushed or steeped for teas or tinctures. To harvest creeping thyme ground cover, either remove the leaves from the stems or dry by snipping from the plant and hanging upside down in a dark, well aerated area. Harvest creeping thyme in the morning when the essential oils of the plant are at their peak. Another creeping thyme fact is despite its enticing odor, growing creeping thyme ground cover is deer resistant, making it an ideal landscape candidate in areas frequented by them. Creeping thyme is also capable of withstanding tromping upon by rambunctious kids (making it kid resistant as well!), which makes it an exceptional planting choice anywhere that has frequent foot traffic. Flowering creeping thyme is very attractive to bees and is a nice addition to a garden focused on honeybees. In fact, the pollen from the blooming thyme will flavor the resulting honey.
How to Plant Creeping Thyme
As mentioned, growing creeping thyme is a simple process due to its compatibility in a variety of soils and light exposures. Although this ground cover prefers well-drained lightly textured soils, it will grow quite well in less than desirable medium and thrive from sun to light shade environments. Soil should be kept moist but not wet, as the growing creeping thyme plant is susceptible to root drowning and edema. The soil pH for growing creeping thyme plants should be neutral to slightly alkaline. Creeping thyme ground cover can be propagated via stem cuttings or divisions and, of course, can be purchased from the local nursery as either established plantings or seeds. Cuttings from the creeping thyme plant should be taken in the early summer. Start seeds when growing creeping thyme indoors or they may be sown in the spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Plant creeping thyme 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for its spreading habitat. Prune creeping thyme ground cover in the spring to maintain a compact appearance and again after the small white flowers are spent if additional shaping is preferred.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Plantains are unsightly lawn weeds that thrive in compacted soil and neglected lawns. Plantain weed treatment consists of diligently digging out the plants as they appear and treating the plants with herbicides. Since weed plantain thrives in poorly established lawns, the best prevention is a healthy lawn. Keep reading to learn more about plantain control.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Goosegrass (Galium aparine) is an annual weed found in warm season turf grasses. The grass seeds readily and spreads on the wind from lawn to lawn. Find answers to what is goosegrass and learn how to control it in order to grow a healthier lawn. The methods on how to kill goosegrass range from cultural to herbicidal. Goosegrass weed control is essential because the rapidly spreading plant can take over entire areas of the lawn.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While children may make wishes on the fuzzy heads of dandelions, gardeners and lawn enthusiasts tend to curse the cheery yellow flowers of dandelions when they appear. And for good reason. Dandelions will push out grass and other plants, as well as sapping water and nutrients away from surrounding plants. Dandelion control also tends to be difficult due to their fluffy and far floating seeds. But the answer to the question of how to get rid of dandelions is simply a matter of thoroughness and patience.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It’s the greatest feeling in the world when your landscape is complete, the trees are big enough to cast a puddle of shade onto the lawn and you can finally relax after the years you’ve spent turning an old drab lawn into a planted paradise. When you notice that sad little plant in the corner, wilted and covered in dark spots, you’ll know it’s time to get back to work if you know how to recognize botryosphaeria canker on plants.
What is Botryosphaeria Canker? Botryosphaeria canker is a common fungal disease of trees and woody shrubs, but it only attacks plants that are already stressed or weakened by other pathogens. Cankering can become quite extensive within the cambian layers, heartwood and inner bark of woody plants, cutting off the tissues that transport water and nutrients throughout the plant. Affected tissues develop black, pimple-like fruiting structures or cankers on bark surfaces. When the bark is peeled back, the wood underneath will be reddish-brown to brown instead of a healthy white to pale green. Some trees will weep gummy sap or develop blisters on their bark along with the more obvious widespread wilting of botryosphaeria canker disease.
Control of Botryosphaeria Canker If caught early, localized botryosphaeria canker on plants can be cut out and the entire plant saved. In the winter or very early spring before bud break, prune any branches or canes back to unaffected tissues and immediately dispose of infected debris. Prevent spreading the botryosphaeria fungus further by soaking pruning tools in a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water for at least 10 minutes between cuts. Fungicides aren’t generally recommended for botryosphaeria canker treatment, since the fungus penetrates tissues, where chemicals can’t reach. Instead, after pruning out diseased areas of the canopy, pay closer attention to the plant. Make sure that it is properly watered, fertilized and protect it from bark damage.
Once your plant is again thriving, you can keep it from developing new problems with botryosphaeria canker disease by continuing to provide it with excellent care and waiting to prune until late winter or early spring, when it’s still too cold for fungal spores to take hold while the wounds are healing.
What is Botryosphaeria Canker? Botryosphaeria canker is a common fungal disease of trees and woody shrubs, but it only attacks plants that are already stressed or weakened by other pathogens. Cankering can become quite extensive within the cambian layers, heartwood and inner bark of woody plants, cutting off the tissues that transport water and nutrients throughout the plant. Affected tissues develop black, pimple-like fruiting structures or cankers on bark surfaces. When the bark is peeled back, the wood underneath will be reddish-brown to brown instead of a healthy white to pale green. Some trees will weep gummy sap or develop blisters on their bark along with the more obvious widespread wilting of botryosphaeria canker disease.
Control of Botryosphaeria Canker If caught early, localized botryosphaeria canker on plants can be cut out and the entire plant saved. In the winter or very early spring before bud break, prune any branches or canes back to unaffected tissues and immediately dispose of infected debris. Prevent spreading the botryosphaeria fungus further by soaking pruning tools in a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water for at least 10 minutes between cuts. Fungicides aren’t generally recommended for botryosphaeria canker treatment, since the fungus penetrates tissues, where chemicals can’t reach. Instead, after pruning out diseased areas of the canopy, pay closer attention to the plant. Make sure that it is properly watered, fertilized and protect it from bark damage.
Once your plant is again thriving, you can keep it from developing new problems with botryosphaeria canker disease by continuing to provide it with excellent care and waiting to prune until late winter or early spring, when it’s still too cold for fungal spores to take hold while the wounds are healing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
When black spores appear on your lawn or garden plants, it’s understandably frustrating -after all, you’ve given those plants lots of tender care and they’re sick despite your efforts. Try not to panic, we’ve got lots of information about treating black smut fungus, a common cause of black spores on turfgrass, small grains and ornamentals. What is Black Smut Fungus? Fungal diseases can be the most frustrating to deal with and they seem to spring up out of nowhere and disappear with the same level of mystery. Although black smut is a minor disease in most parts of the country, it’s important to know how to handle it when your lawn or garden suddenly develops a load of black spores.
Black smut is a fungal disease that appears on small grains, grasses, onions and even herbaceous ornamentals under the right conditions. Unlike many fungal diseases, though, plants affected by smut may live many years before they begin to show signs of the disease. Turf grasses, for example, often don’t look sick until three or four years after their initial infection. Although signs of smut will vary based on the species of smut and the host, common smut fungus symptoms include galls or boils that enlarge any above-ground plant tissues, yellow striping on leaves or a powdery brown or black material on plant parts. The black or brown powder is actually a fine covering of reproductive spores and will occur late in the disease process.
Smut Fungus Control Because smut spores are spread by wind and splashing water, it can be difficult to stop the problem at the source. Instead, treating black smut fungus has to focus on creating an unfriendly environment for the spores. When the outdoor temperatures rise above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), it may seem like your smut problem is defeated, but it’s hard to kill the disease completely since the fungus resides in the growing points of the plant. On a lawn, an infection of smut can be tolerated provided that you’re overseeding with a more resistant grass species, such as the Kentucky bluegrass. Most importantly, you’ll have to carefully monitor your fertilization practices, as smut thrives in a high nitrogen environment.
Switch to a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, and only apply it in the fall, after the smut pathogen is dormant. Keeping your plants healthy will help them resist a smut infection, but if the disease is very severe in valuable plants, you may consider applying a fungicide. Demethylase inhibitors are very effective when applied in the spring at the label rates. Remember, fungicides are always a last resort option, as most fungal issues can be corrected by modifying the environment.
Black smut is a fungal disease that appears on small grains, grasses, onions and even herbaceous ornamentals under the right conditions. Unlike many fungal diseases, though, plants affected by smut may live many years before they begin to show signs of the disease. Turf grasses, for example, often don’t look sick until three or four years after their initial infection. Although signs of smut will vary based on the species of smut and the host, common smut fungus symptoms include galls or boils that enlarge any above-ground plant tissues, yellow striping on leaves or a powdery brown or black material on plant parts. The black or brown powder is actually a fine covering of reproductive spores and will occur late in the disease process.
Smut Fungus Control Because smut spores are spread by wind and splashing water, it can be difficult to stop the problem at the source. Instead, treating black smut fungus has to focus on creating an unfriendly environment for the spores. When the outdoor temperatures rise above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), it may seem like your smut problem is defeated, but it’s hard to kill the disease completely since the fungus resides in the growing points of the plant. On a lawn, an infection of smut can be tolerated provided that you’re overseeding with a more resistant grass species, such as the Kentucky bluegrass. Most importantly, you’ll have to carefully monitor your fertilization practices, as smut thrives in a high nitrogen environment.
Switch to a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, and only apply it in the fall, after the smut pathogen is dormant. Keeping your plants healthy will help them resist a smut infection, but if the disease is very severe in valuable plants, you may consider applying a fungicide. Demethylase inhibitors are very effective when applied in the spring at the label rates. Remember, fungicides are always a last resort option, as most fungal issues can be corrected by modifying the environment.
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lenny
2017年05月23日
Growing ornamental grasses is fun. You can decorate your house, garden, balcony or patio with them. So, what are the best ornamental grasses for containers? We named a few, check out.
Grasses are not only for lawn or ground cover. They can add a visual charm at any place if you grow them in containers.
Growing and care for ornamental grasses is relatively easy. You can start to grow them from seeds.
Before you head on to see the list of best ornamental grasses below, learn how to care for them here!
Growing ornamental grasses in containers is an excellent way to feature grasses without letting them branch out and taking over your whole garden. Container grown grasses are also easier to control, and they look stunning when grown with flowers.
Growing Ornamental Grasses in Pots
Ornamental grasses are an excellent way to create privacy in the garden, especially on a patio, balcony or rooftop. Some of the grasses are extremely resistant to drought and grow rapidly. And there are those that love moisture; you can choose according to the growing conditions you’re providing.
Also read: Balcony Privacy Ideas
Growing Position
Decide where you want to grow the ornamental grass. Ornamental grasses thrive in a spot that gets at least five to six hours of sunlight daily.
Choosing Right Pot
Choosing a right pot is also necessary for growing ornamental grasses in containers. Ensure proper drainage and see if it is wide enough to let the grass spread and deep enough to support the root system. You should also care about the looks of a container.
Also Read: Container Ideas for Patio and Balcony
RequirementsSoil
Use a mix of one part compost, one part top soil and one part perlite for making an excellent growing medium for grass.
Watering
A general rule is to water your plants only when the top two inch of soil is dry. However, different grass varieties have different needs, and some even like to sit in water so make sure to do a proper research about the grass variety you’re growing.
Also Read: How to Water Container Plants
FertilizerFertilize annually in spring with slow-release 3 – 1 – 2 fertilizer. For tropics, feed your plants in fall and winter. Take care not to over-fertilize grass and strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions.11 Best Ornamental grasses for containers1. Bamboo Muhly
Almost fern-like but super fine in texture, bamboo muhly grass grows easily in USDA Zones 8 to 11. It takes its name from its notched stems and feathery foliage. It thrives in the tropical climate, loves sun and heat and grows well in containers.
2. Japanese Sweet Flag
This low growing (12″) ornamental grass is good to grow in containers if you don’t want to grow a tall variety. Japanese sweet flag is low maintenance and grows in moist and soggy soil and semi-shade to full sun in USDA zones 6 to 9.
You can grow this ornamental grass with other moisture loving plants or with aquatic plants.
Also Read: How to make a water pond in container
3. Red Fountain Grass
USDA Zones 9 to 11. Beautiful red fountain grass looks stunning; it’s an arching upright plant. Fill the pot with its rich burgundy color of foliage, and you’ll see how beautiful it looks.
4. Japanese Forest Grass
USDA Zones 5 to 9. Once you see Japanese forest grass growing in a nearby, nursery, you’ll love to pick it. It’s the plant you can grow in the shade, its foliage comes in yellow-green stripes and grows in a clump. Grow this ornamental grass in a dark ceramic pot for an absolutely stunning look.
5. Blue Lyme Grass
Blue lyme grass grows aggressively in all kinds of soil. It grows in both tropical and nontropical climate under USDA Zones 4 to 10. The sword-like foliage grows up to 3 – 4 feet that fold as they grow tall. This bold and spiky grass forms beige colored flower heads usually in summer.
6. Fiber Optic Grass
Image Credit: Cocoon Home
USDA Zones 10, 11. Fiber optic grass grows well in tropics, in a colder climate, you can grow it as annual. It hangs down gently in a curve and creates an unusual effect. It’s one of the best ornamental grasses you would like to grow in containers.
Fiber optic is a low growing, fine textured grass that can be planted in full to partial sun. It loves moist soil. You can also grow it indoors; we also added it in our list of most BEAUTIFUL HOUSEPLANTS!7. New Zealand flax
USDA Zones 9 to 11. New Zealand flax is perennial in frost-free areas, excellent for tropical regions. You can grow it in containers, it looks beautiful and gives a tropical feel. This grass like beautiful foliage plant comes in colors of green, copper, red and gold.
8. Sedge
Sedge looks like grass, but it is not. When grown in containers, its leaves glow in the sun and look fantastic while the blades rustle in the slightest breeze. Sedge grows well in warm sunny conditions.
Also Read: Container Garden Design Tips
9. Miscanthus
USDA Zones 6 to 9. One of the most popular ornamental grasses, it grows well in the container. Available in many varieties, it looks picturesque in the morning sun.
10. Blue Oat Grass
USDA Zones 4 to 9 Grow this cool blue – gray grass in a pot with bright flowers to create an aesthetic look on your patio, terrace or balcony garden. Blue oat grass is low maintenance and grows well in partial shade.
11. Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed grass can be grown in the sun and partial shade both. It grows well in USDA Zones 4 to 9. Feather reed grass looks attractive as a focal point– on a patio if grown in a container.
Also Read: Best Shrubs to Grow in Containers
Grasses are not only for lawn or ground cover. They can add a visual charm at any place if you grow them in containers.
Growing and care for ornamental grasses is relatively easy. You can start to grow them from seeds.
Before you head on to see the list of best ornamental grasses below, learn how to care for them here!
Growing ornamental grasses in containers is an excellent way to feature grasses without letting them branch out and taking over your whole garden. Container grown grasses are also easier to control, and they look stunning when grown with flowers.
Growing Ornamental Grasses in Pots
Ornamental grasses are an excellent way to create privacy in the garden, especially on a patio, balcony or rooftop. Some of the grasses are extremely resistant to drought and grow rapidly. And there are those that love moisture; you can choose according to the growing conditions you’re providing.
Also read: Balcony Privacy Ideas
Growing Position
Decide where you want to grow the ornamental grass. Ornamental grasses thrive in a spot that gets at least five to six hours of sunlight daily.
Choosing Right Pot
Choosing a right pot is also necessary for growing ornamental grasses in containers. Ensure proper drainage and see if it is wide enough to let the grass spread and deep enough to support the root system. You should also care about the looks of a container.
Also Read: Container Ideas for Patio and Balcony
RequirementsSoil
Use a mix of one part compost, one part top soil and one part perlite for making an excellent growing medium for grass.
Watering
A general rule is to water your plants only when the top two inch of soil is dry. However, different grass varieties have different needs, and some even like to sit in water so make sure to do a proper research about the grass variety you’re growing.
Also Read: How to Water Container Plants
FertilizerFertilize annually in spring with slow-release 3 – 1 – 2 fertilizer. For tropics, feed your plants in fall and winter. Take care not to over-fertilize grass and strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions.11 Best Ornamental grasses for containers1. Bamboo Muhly
Almost fern-like but super fine in texture, bamboo muhly grass grows easily in USDA Zones 8 to 11. It takes its name from its notched stems and feathery foliage. It thrives in the tropical climate, loves sun and heat and grows well in containers.
2. Japanese Sweet Flag
This low growing (12″) ornamental grass is good to grow in containers if you don’t want to grow a tall variety. Japanese sweet flag is low maintenance and grows in moist and soggy soil and semi-shade to full sun in USDA zones 6 to 9.
You can grow this ornamental grass with other moisture loving plants or with aquatic plants.
Also Read: How to make a water pond in container
3. Red Fountain Grass
USDA Zones 9 to 11. Beautiful red fountain grass looks stunning; it’s an arching upright plant. Fill the pot with its rich burgundy color of foliage, and you’ll see how beautiful it looks.
4. Japanese Forest Grass
USDA Zones 5 to 9. Once you see Japanese forest grass growing in a nearby, nursery, you’ll love to pick it. It’s the plant you can grow in the shade, its foliage comes in yellow-green stripes and grows in a clump. Grow this ornamental grass in a dark ceramic pot for an absolutely stunning look.
5. Blue Lyme Grass
Blue lyme grass grows aggressively in all kinds of soil. It grows in both tropical and nontropical climate under USDA Zones 4 to 10. The sword-like foliage grows up to 3 – 4 feet that fold as they grow tall. This bold and spiky grass forms beige colored flower heads usually in summer.
6. Fiber Optic Grass
Image Credit: Cocoon Home
USDA Zones 10, 11. Fiber optic grass grows well in tropics, in a colder climate, you can grow it as annual. It hangs down gently in a curve and creates an unusual effect. It’s one of the best ornamental grasses you would like to grow in containers.
Fiber optic is a low growing, fine textured grass that can be planted in full to partial sun. It loves moist soil. You can also grow it indoors; we also added it in our list of most BEAUTIFUL HOUSEPLANTS!7. New Zealand flax
USDA Zones 9 to 11. New Zealand flax is perennial in frost-free areas, excellent for tropical regions. You can grow it in containers, it looks beautiful and gives a tropical feel. This grass like beautiful foliage plant comes in colors of green, copper, red and gold.
8. Sedge
Sedge looks like grass, but it is not. When grown in containers, its leaves glow in the sun and look fantastic while the blades rustle in the slightest breeze. Sedge grows well in warm sunny conditions.
Also Read: Container Garden Design Tips
9. Miscanthus
USDA Zones 6 to 9. One of the most popular ornamental grasses, it grows well in the container. Available in many varieties, it looks picturesque in the morning sun.
10. Blue Oat Grass
USDA Zones 4 to 9 Grow this cool blue – gray grass in a pot with bright flowers to create an aesthetic look on your patio, terrace or balcony garden. Blue oat grass is low maintenance and grows well in partial shade.
11. Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed grass can be grown in the sun and partial shade both. It grows well in USDA Zones 4 to 9. Feather reed grass looks attractive as a focal point– on a patio if grown in a container.
Also Read: Best Shrubs to Grow in Containers
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Abigal
2017年05月22日
Edging your lawn is more than just creating a mow strip, or keeping the weeds out. It sets off what can be the largest element in your yard and garden! Its kind of like trim around a door frame or baseboard moldings around a wall. It finishes it well. So adding a lawn edging could be just what your yard was missing. We’ve already covered creative garden edging, and then more creative garden edging here at TGG. This time we wanted to show you a little of the tried and true. These beautiful and classic lawn edging ideas are no fail ways to place the focus right where it belongs. Your outdoor space!
Our feature project, above, is a brick lawn edging from ‘Lowes’. Simple tutorial shows you how easy this edging choice really is.
One of the most popular choices in suburban yards right now is concrete curbing. It keeps grass and weeds from easily growing under, and makes a good mow strip. ‘Bob Vila’ teaches us how to make concrete garden edging ourselves.
Don’t want to do all that work? Lucky you, there are tons of concrete curbing services around to do it for you! Photo from ‘Millburn Landscape‘.
This option from ‘Permaloc‘ is metal lawn edging. This reaches down under the soil line to prevent crabgrass and other weeds from “edging in”… :) You can install metal edging yourself, or have it done by a landscaper.
A good tip from ‘Patiotown‘… All it takes is a single course of edging to make mowing around retaining walls so much easier!
From ‘This Old House’, find out how to edge a garden bed with brick. Brick is tough, attractive and relatively cheap, which makes it a good edging material.
From ‘Johnsen Landscapes‘, this idea on using a dry creek bed to edge your lawn is full of creative design. You can also jump on over to our post and find out more ways to make a dry creek bed.
Find out more about how to make brick edging for your garden beds, from ‘Gardeen World’. You could use other building stones as well.
From ‘Railway Sleepers’, this is an oldie… using railway ties to edge your garden. There has been some controversy about their safety however, so make sure you do your research about the creosote used in some railroad ties.
There are also an amazing array of products out there that can make this easy for you. We are really liking these corner stone edgers from ‘Haddonstone‘. Those are a problem solver! They also have inside corners and curved stones.
Do you have any classic lawn edging ideas? Share in comments!
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Hande Salcan
2017年03月15日
If you need to lay a new lawn, or repair or replace an old one, there is no faster way to get it established then laying sod. It’s not a difficult job if you follow some easy hints. Steve and I have both laid sod before, and we have a step by step guide for you and one big “got to know”. You will be sore. Accept it now…but it will be from a job well done, and nothing…I mean nothing transforms a yard faster then the velvet green of a sod lawn.
Why lay sod instead of seed? First of all, a seeded lawn can take months before it can be used for any kind of regular traffic, be that from pets, kids, or guests. Second, it requires the same prep time, yet weeks and weeks more extra maintenance chores while you baby that seed into germination and to become a full and lush lawn. Third, seed lawns tend to need patching later on, and use a lot more water to establish. (I guess thats fourth, too!) Need anymore? It’s pretty darn satisfying spending a good afternoon laying down sod, to step back and look at your instant happy garden. Also, sod can be laid pretty much anytime during the growing season, though spring and fall are best. (Summer installation requires more attention to watering!) Seed is best planted in spring, fall planting can be tough.The only con to laying sod (besides the “sore” part is that it initially costs more than seed. But if you factor in the extra water required to get a seed lawn started, the extra expense patching the lawn later on, and the time spent waiting to use your yard, sod is a pretty good investment.
Sod can be ordered straight from sod companies, or from your local nursery. It is delivered in 3-4 foot rolls on wood pallets, and is sold by the foot. You will need to figure our how many square feet you want to lay before you call to order.
Ok, so on to our step by step tutorial on how to lay sod!
1. Prep is everything. Just like any gardening, prepping the soil will make the difference between a lawn that is healthy and lush, and one that is thin, dries out easily and eventually fails. The weekend before you have the sod delivered, rent or borrow a rototiller and till the soil six inches deep. Add an inch or two layer of compost to the top of the soil and till it in. Then the fun part. Using a metal rake, smooth out the area to be sodded, and break up any large chunks. Water.
2. Have the sod delivered the morning of installation if possible. If not, no more than the day before. Water the sod on the pallets lightly to keep it from drying out. Hint: Don’t soak the sod, it will make it much heavier to pick up and carry.
3. Lay your first row of sod, usually along the longest side of the yard. Lay the sod strips with the ends butting up together, but not overlapping. This is key to not having weeds growing up between your sod strips while the lawn is establishing.
4. Lay the next row. This row, you want to stagger the seams, as This Old House says, “like you are laying brick.” Lay the rest of your rows in this staggering manner.
5. Use a sharp garden knife to cut strips to fit. My “garden” knife was an old serrated knife from the kitchen drawer. It lasted just long enough to get the whole lawn done. Be warned.
6. When the sod is all laid, walk along the seams to gently help them make contact with the soil. Some rent a roller, but we have never had an issue from just walking the seams. Water well with sprinklers.
7. Water the new lawn every day for a week, then every other day for the next week. By week three, you should be seeing significant growth and you should be able to water like a normal (new) lawn for your climate. When the lawn is 3 inches high, it’s time for the first mowing. It’s also ready for light foot traffic. Sod lawns are pretty tough, you can walk across them to set up a sprinkler, for instance, from day one. Just hold off on the football and slip and slide for a bit, ok?
That’s it, you have learned how to lay sod, and transformed your yard! Anyone laid sod before and want to share their tips? Share with us in comments!
Why lay sod instead of seed? First of all, a seeded lawn can take months before it can be used for any kind of regular traffic, be that from pets, kids, or guests. Second, it requires the same prep time, yet weeks and weeks more extra maintenance chores while you baby that seed into germination and to become a full and lush lawn. Third, seed lawns tend to need patching later on, and use a lot more water to establish. (I guess thats fourth, too!) Need anymore? It’s pretty darn satisfying spending a good afternoon laying down sod, to step back and look at your instant happy garden. Also, sod can be laid pretty much anytime during the growing season, though spring and fall are best. (Summer installation requires more attention to watering!) Seed is best planted in spring, fall planting can be tough.The only con to laying sod (besides the “sore” part is that it initially costs more than seed. But if you factor in the extra water required to get a seed lawn started, the extra expense patching the lawn later on, and the time spent waiting to use your yard, sod is a pretty good investment.
Sod can be ordered straight from sod companies, or from your local nursery. It is delivered in 3-4 foot rolls on wood pallets, and is sold by the foot. You will need to figure our how many square feet you want to lay before you call to order.
Ok, so on to our step by step tutorial on how to lay sod!
1. Prep is everything. Just like any gardening, prepping the soil will make the difference between a lawn that is healthy and lush, and one that is thin, dries out easily and eventually fails. The weekend before you have the sod delivered, rent or borrow a rototiller and till the soil six inches deep. Add an inch or two layer of compost to the top of the soil and till it in. Then the fun part. Using a metal rake, smooth out the area to be sodded, and break up any large chunks. Water.
2. Have the sod delivered the morning of installation if possible. If not, no more than the day before. Water the sod on the pallets lightly to keep it from drying out. Hint: Don’t soak the sod, it will make it much heavier to pick up and carry.
3. Lay your first row of sod, usually along the longest side of the yard. Lay the sod strips with the ends butting up together, but not overlapping. This is key to not having weeds growing up between your sod strips while the lawn is establishing.
4. Lay the next row. This row, you want to stagger the seams, as This Old House says, “like you are laying brick.” Lay the rest of your rows in this staggering manner.
5. Use a sharp garden knife to cut strips to fit. My “garden” knife was an old serrated knife from the kitchen drawer. It lasted just long enough to get the whole lawn done. Be warned.
6. When the sod is all laid, walk along the seams to gently help them make contact with the soil. Some rent a roller, but we have never had an issue from just walking the seams. Water well with sprinklers.
7. Water the new lawn every day for a week, then every other day for the next week. By week three, you should be seeing significant growth and you should be able to water like a normal (new) lawn for your climate. When the lawn is 3 inches high, it’s time for the first mowing. It’s also ready for light foot traffic. Sod lawns are pretty tough, you can walk across them to set up a sprinkler, for instance, from day one. Just hold off on the football and slip and slide for a bit, ok?
That’s it, you have learned how to lay sod, and transformed your yard! Anyone laid sod before and want to share their tips? Share with us in comments!
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Lisa
2017年02月20日
#Lawn care in winter is required for lush green lawn in spring. Learn how to care for it in this educative guide.
Lawn preparation for winter is one of the most important gardening task that must be done in time and correctly. Adequate fertilization, mowing and removing weeds and debris provide the lawn healthy appearance but there are a few other things you should do, which are given below.
Lawn Preparation for Winter
1. Scarification
Scarification is done to remove thatch or undergrowth from the lawn. This removes way moss, weeds and dead organic debris which impede the flow of water, air and nutrients to the roots. You can scarify your lawn in late spring when all the dangers of frost are passed or in the fall. Before scarifying your lawn, mow it. Scarify only to remove the top layer of thatch, don’t penetrate the blades too deeply.
2. Aeration
Aeration improves the airflow in the soil and reduce its compactness so that water, fertilizer and oxygen are easily absorbed by the roots. This treatment improves the condition of the roots and helps in quick regeneration of grass after the winter. Aeration should be done in fall in late September or October. However, according to a research conducted by Purdue University, aeration done too late even until the November might be helpful.
3. Liming
Generally grasses grow well in neutral pH and if your soil is acidic, do liming. Best time to lime your lawn is fall, after the aeration. The cycle of freezing and thawing in winter assists the penetration of lime into the soil.
4. Overseeding
After the aeration, if you see holes and patches apply the seeds at a rate of 0.8 Oz (25 g)/m2. Colder months are perfect time for seeding scraggly patches of lawn. It is done when soil is not frozen but cold enough to stop germination until next spring. To learn more on how to do it, read this.
5. Top Dressing
Top dressing is the process of application of thin layer of soil, sand or compost over the turf. Top dressing is done after the aeration and overseeding. It helps in leveling the surface of lawn, protect it from extreme temperatures, controls thatch, improves drainage and resistance to drought. Plus, there are many more other advantages. However, it is skipped in home gardens and lawns. To learn more about top dressing, checkout this educative article.
6. Fertilization
By proper fertilizing the lawn before winter you can increase the turf resistance to freezing temperatures. The application should be done 2-3 weeks prior to first frost date using so called “winterizer fertilizer” such as 24-2-14 NPK. But beware that winterizer should not be applied to warm season grasses as it will encourage them to grow. The high level of potassium in winterizer makes grasses more tolerant to cold and stress, helping them to survive in winter.
7. Mowing
Grass must not be cut too short or too high. Optimum height for last mowing job is leaving 2/3 of grass blades. Last mowing is best done anytime in between late October to mid November, depending more on the prevailing weather conditions. If you mow the lawn too early before winter and warm weather has made the grass to grow again, mowing must be repeated. During winters, mowing is not required. Once temperature falls below 40 F (4 C) grass starts to grow slowly.
Lawn Care in Winter
1. Weeding
To find a perfect lawn in the spring, continue weeding, even in winter. Thus, the uncontrolled growth of weeds do not choke your lawn. But rest assured, it is paradoxically easier in winter. At this time, weeds grow faster than grass. This makes them much easier to spot on – except of course, when snow covers the garden.
2. Watering
Watering the lawn in winter is almost never necessary. Nature takes care itself with the frequent rains of this period. However, if there is no rain and the grass suffers, then you can water the lawn. Choose a frost free day when temperature is above 40 F (4 C), water half an inch in the morning.
3. Cleaning
Another important step is to regularly clean the fallen leaves and debris. Fallen leaves if remain on the turf reduce its durability. Damp leaves “pressed” under a layer of snow cut off the supply of oxygen and cause rotting of the lawn. You can use this organic litter to make compost or to mulch other plants.
Lawn preparation for winter is one of the most important gardening task that must be done in time and correctly. Adequate fertilization, mowing and removing weeds and debris provide the lawn healthy appearance but there are a few other things you should do, which are given below.
Lawn Preparation for Winter
1. Scarification
Scarification is done to remove thatch or undergrowth from the lawn. This removes way moss, weeds and dead organic debris which impede the flow of water, air and nutrients to the roots. You can scarify your lawn in late spring when all the dangers of frost are passed or in the fall. Before scarifying your lawn, mow it. Scarify only to remove the top layer of thatch, don’t penetrate the blades too deeply.
2. Aeration
Aeration improves the airflow in the soil and reduce its compactness so that water, fertilizer and oxygen are easily absorbed by the roots. This treatment improves the condition of the roots and helps in quick regeneration of grass after the winter. Aeration should be done in fall in late September or October. However, according to a research conducted by Purdue University, aeration done too late even until the November might be helpful.
3. Liming
Generally grasses grow well in neutral pH and if your soil is acidic, do liming. Best time to lime your lawn is fall, after the aeration. The cycle of freezing and thawing in winter assists the penetration of lime into the soil.
4. Overseeding
After the aeration, if you see holes and patches apply the seeds at a rate of 0.8 Oz (25 g)/m2. Colder months are perfect time for seeding scraggly patches of lawn. It is done when soil is not frozen but cold enough to stop germination until next spring. To learn more on how to do it, read this.
5. Top Dressing
Top dressing is the process of application of thin layer of soil, sand or compost over the turf. Top dressing is done after the aeration and overseeding. It helps in leveling the surface of lawn, protect it from extreme temperatures, controls thatch, improves drainage and resistance to drought. Plus, there are many more other advantages. However, it is skipped in home gardens and lawns. To learn more about top dressing, checkout this educative article.
6. Fertilization
By proper fertilizing the lawn before winter you can increase the turf resistance to freezing temperatures. The application should be done 2-3 weeks prior to first frost date using so called “winterizer fertilizer” such as 24-2-14 NPK. But beware that winterizer should not be applied to warm season grasses as it will encourage them to grow. The high level of potassium in winterizer makes grasses more tolerant to cold and stress, helping them to survive in winter.
7. Mowing
Grass must not be cut too short or too high. Optimum height for last mowing job is leaving 2/3 of grass blades. Last mowing is best done anytime in between late October to mid November, depending more on the prevailing weather conditions. If you mow the lawn too early before winter and warm weather has made the grass to grow again, mowing must be repeated. During winters, mowing is not required. Once temperature falls below 40 F (4 C) grass starts to grow slowly.
Lawn Care in Winter
1. Weeding
To find a perfect lawn in the spring, continue weeding, even in winter. Thus, the uncontrolled growth of weeds do not choke your lawn. But rest assured, it is paradoxically easier in winter. At this time, weeds grow faster than grass. This makes them much easier to spot on – except of course, when snow covers the garden.
2. Watering
Watering the lawn in winter is almost never necessary. Nature takes care itself with the frequent rains of this period. However, if there is no rain and the grass suffers, then you can water the lawn. Choose a frost free day when temperature is above 40 F (4 C), water half an inch in the morning.
3. Cleaning
Another important step is to regularly clean the fallen leaves and debris. Fallen leaves if remain on the turf reduce its durability. Damp leaves “pressed” under a layer of snow cut off the supply of oxygen and cause rotting of the lawn. You can use this organic litter to make compost or to mulch other plants.
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Lisa
2017年02月18日
By adding manure in your lawn you can create a lush green field. Of course, fertilizers are more effective though using them harm your soil and if over applied burns the grass, too.
But manure as a fertilizer supports the growth of grass. It’s rich in nitrogen and an organic and safer option than conventional fertilizers. It aids our ecosystem and adds micronutrients in soil too.
1. Put the dried manure in a large container, using hand rake break the large pieces into similar small dusty or gravel like pieces.
2. Pour that manure into the fertilizer spreader’s hopper, remove bigger clumps that are not broken similarly.
3. Adjust the flow knob of spreader for a slow and regular flow of manure. Cover the whole lawn equally in a slow gait.
4. After this, water the lawn deeply, watering helps manure to admix in soil and settle down in the roots.
5. You can re-apply manure once a month; it works as a slow release fertilizer on grass so you’ll start to see changes gradually.
*If you live in a colder part then don’t apply manure in winter as the grass becomes dormant. Similarly if you live in tropics, avoid using manure in the peak of summer.
*Cow manure is best natural fertilizer to apply and if you don’t find it you can also use other manures.
*Ensure the manure you buy is well decomposed; otherwise it will burn your plants.
But manure as a fertilizer supports the growth of grass. It’s rich in nitrogen and an organic and safer option than conventional fertilizers. It aids our ecosystem and adds micronutrients in soil too.
1. Put the dried manure in a large container, using hand rake break the large pieces into similar small dusty or gravel like pieces.
2. Pour that manure into the fertilizer spreader’s hopper, remove bigger clumps that are not broken similarly.
3. Adjust the flow knob of spreader for a slow and regular flow of manure. Cover the whole lawn equally in a slow gait.
4. After this, water the lawn deeply, watering helps manure to admix in soil and settle down in the roots.
5. You can re-apply manure once a month; it works as a slow release fertilizer on grass so you’ll start to see changes gradually.
*If you live in a colder part then don’t apply manure in winter as the grass becomes dormant. Similarly if you live in tropics, avoid using manure in the peak of summer.
*Cow manure is best natural fertilizer to apply and if you don’t find it you can also use other manures.
*Ensure the manure you buy is well decomposed; otherwise it will burn your plants.
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Lisa
2017年02月18日
Many gardeners believe that no garden is complete without a lush green #lawn . If maintained greatly it gives a soft velvety touch to a garden, plus a most favorite site to leap and lie down for pets and children.
Making a lawn is easy but its maintenance and care is difficult. To make this green space more greener and refreshing than before, imply these 16 effective tips.
1. Don’t go for fancy stuff, always plant grass that is native and local and perfectly adapted to your climate. Examine your place perfectly to find out the hours of sunshine, temperature, growing conditions and soil type to choose a grass type you should grow.
2. What’s your soil pH? For lawns, pH level around 6 to 7.2 is required. Test your soil pH, if it’s not around the required level, amend your soil type.
3. Don’t plant lawns in completely shady area and avoid planting it on the slopes and anomalous spots of your yard.
4. Grass in shady part of your lawn requires less watering and fertilizer as it doesn’t receive full sun, you can’t perk up its growth by over watering and over fertilizing. The simple formula is to fertilize and water it half than the sunny spot.
5. Mow your lawn before grass reaches high to avoid sunburnt lawn, mowing tall grasses can shock their roots and dull the blades of mower, too.
6. Find out the mowing height of the grass you’re growing and cut according to it. For example, you should cut buffalo grass 2-3 inches and hybrid Bermudagrass around 1 inch. Read this post to find out ideal mowing height of your grass variety.
7. How you’ll know that your lawn needs mowing and it’s reaching height? The rule is simple, when it reaches the one third or more of the suggested mowing height, cut it. If you cut grass after 2 inch, then its mowing time is when it will reach 3 inch height.
8. Healthy growth of grass doesn’t let the weeds grow. If you want effective weed control in your lawn, grow a variety of tall grass, it’ll cover up the space for weeds and cut off their sun light.
9. Use edgings in your lawn, edgings restrict grasses from out bounding the lawn and give it a sheer look. You can use plastic edging or timber, concrete or brick edging.
10. Walking over the lawn and trampling it for years, tighten the soil and take all the air out from the area, that’s why you should aerate your lawn twice a year in both spring and fall. Aerating helps the root system and soil by providing the air and water. It also improves nutrients penetration. Aerating is the secret of happy green lawns.
11. Morning time is right for watering, as the water evaporates less. If your lawn is new you need to water more to let your plants establish.
12. Water your lawn 5-6 inches deep and let it dry up before another watering session. A lawn watered deeply doesn’t dry out quickly, best way to measure the level of water absorbed by the soil is to poke a rod or stick in the soil after watering.
13. The more you feed nitrogen rich fertilizer and water regularly, the more it will grow quickly and the more you’ll need to mow it. It’s good to make a balance for a lush lawn.
14. Best time to fertilize your lawn is in its growing season every 6 week.
15. Lack of calcium in soil provides prosperous thriving condition to common weeds. Spread lime using spreader if your soil doesn’t have calcium to magnesium ratio of 7 to 1.
16. You can feed your lawn with compost or manure, as manures are rich in nitrogen they are a better organic option than chemical fertilizers. Cow manure is best for lawns. Read this post to learn how to add manure to your lawn.
Making a lawn is easy but its maintenance and care is difficult. To make this green space more greener and refreshing than before, imply these 16 effective tips.
1. Don’t go for fancy stuff, always plant grass that is native and local and perfectly adapted to your climate. Examine your place perfectly to find out the hours of sunshine, temperature, growing conditions and soil type to choose a grass type you should grow.
2. What’s your soil pH? For lawns, pH level around 6 to 7.2 is required. Test your soil pH, if it’s not around the required level, amend your soil type.
3. Don’t plant lawns in completely shady area and avoid planting it on the slopes and anomalous spots of your yard.
4. Grass in shady part of your lawn requires less watering and fertilizer as it doesn’t receive full sun, you can’t perk up its growth by over watering and over fertilizing. The simple formula is to fertilize and water it half than the sunny spot.
5. Mow your lawn before grass reaches high to avoid sunburnt lawn, mowing tall grasses can shock their roots and dull the blades of mower, too.
6. Find out the mowing height of the grass you’re growing and cut according to it. For example, you should cut buffalo grass 2-3 inches and hybrid Bermudagrass around 1 inch. Read this post to find out ideal mowing height of your grass variety.
7. How you’ll know that your lawn needs mowing and it’s reaching height? The rule is simple, when it reaches the one third or more of the suggested mowing height, cut it. If you cut grass after 2 inch, then its mowing time is when it will reach 3 inch height.
8. Healthy growth of grass doesn’t let the weeds grow. If you want effective weed control in your lawn, grow a variety of tall grass, it’ll cover up the space for weeds and cut off their sun light.
9. Use edgings in your lawn, edgings restrict grasses from out bounding the lawn and give it a sheer look. You can use plastic edging or timber, concrete or brick edging.
10. Walking over the lawn and trampling it for years, tighten the soil and take all the air out from the area, that’s why you should aerate your lawn twice a year in both spring and fall. Aerating helps the root system and soil by providing the air and water. It also improves nutrients penetration. Aerating is the secret of happy green lawns.
11. Morning time is right for watering, as the water evaporates less. If your lawn is new you need to water more to let your plants establish.
12. Water your lawn 5-6 inches deep and let it dry up before another watering session. A lawn watered deeply doesn’t dry out quickly, best way to measure the level of water absorbed by the soil is to poke a rod or stick in the soil after watering.
13. The more you feed nitrogen rich fertilizer and water regularly, the more it will grow quickly and the more you’ll need to mow it. It’s good to make a balance for a lush lawn.
14. Best time to fertilize your lawn is in its growing season every 6 week.
15. Lack of calcium in soil provides prosperous thriving condition to common weeds. Spread lime using spreader if your soil doesn’t have calcium to magnesium ratio of 7 to 1.
16. You can feed your lawn with compost or manure, as manures are rich in nitrogen they are a better organic option than chemical fertilizers. Cow manure is best for lawns. Read this post to learn how to add manure to your lawn.
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