文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pelargonium
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera hybrids
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Aloe barbadensis
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: BluePurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Spring
A high-climbing vine, wisteria blooms vigorously in spring with large, drooping clusters of lilac or bluish purple.
Note: Two species of wisteria that are typically grown in home gardens are invasive species: Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The native wisteria is Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria. If you’re planting a new wisteria, we strongly suggest you avoid the Asian invasive wisteria species.
How to tell the difference? The Asian species are aggressive growers with fuzzy seed pods while the American wisteria is not an aggressive grower and has smooth seed pods, glabrous fruits and more or less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds. The native wisteria’s flowers appear after the plant has leafed out, a difference from the Asian species. The blooms only appear on new wood.
The vine may grow 25 to 30 feet long! Wisteria is also beautifully fragrant, providing a feast for the senses. A brown, bean-like pod exists until winter.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, moist, but well-drained soil.
Plant in full sun. Though wisteria will grow in partial shade, it probably won’t flower. Sun is essential.
If your soil is in poor condition, add compost; otherwise, wisteria will grow in most soils. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Plant in the spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. Space plants 10 to 15 feet apart.
Choose a site that will not overwhelm nearby plants, as wisteria grows quickly and can overtake its neighbors.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant and a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Some gardeners swear by phosphorus to aid flowering. Scratch a couple of cups of bone meal into the soil in the spring and then add some rock phosphate in the fall.
Water your plants if you receive less than one inch of rain each week. (To know how much rain you are getting, you can place an empty tuna can outside and measure the depth of water with a measuring stick.)
PRUNING WISTERIA
Pruning is the secret to good flowering.
Prune wisteria in late winter. Remove at least half of the prior year’s growth, leaving just a few buds per stem.
If you want a more formal appearance, prune again during summer, after traditional flowering.
For more blooms, try cutting back the rampant shoots every two weeks during the summer.
Do you have a new wisteria? Cut the vine back severely right after planting. Then, the next year, cut the main stem or stems back to 3 feet of the previous season’s growth. Once the framework is full size, shorten further extension growth in midsummer to where growth began for that season.
Informally grown, mature plants need little or no subsequent pruning.
For a formally trained plant, cut side shoots back to 6 inches in summer, then shorten them again in winter to 3 buds.
Wisteria will resprout with vigor if cut back severely, but this pruning should be avoided, if possible, because new shoots may take some years before they flower.
PESTS/DISEASES
Dieback, crown gall, leaf spots, virus diseases, Japanese beetle, aphids, leaf miners, scale insects, and mealybugs can be problems.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: BluePurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Spring
A high-climbing vine, wisteria blooms vigorously in spring with large, drooping clusters of lilac or bluish purple.
Note: Two species of wisteria that are typically grown in home gardens are invasive species: Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The native wisteria is Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria. If you’re planting a new wisteria, we strongly suggest you avoid the Asian invasive wisteria species.
How to tell the difference? The Asian species are aggressive growers with fuzzy seed pods while the American wisteria is not an aggressive grower and has smooth seed pods, glabrous fruits and more or less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds. The native wisteria’s flowers appear after the plant has leafed out, a difference from the Asian species. The blooms only appear on new wood.
The vine may grow 25 to 30 feet long! Wisteria is also beautifully fragrant, providing a feast for the senses. A brown, bean-like pod exists until winter.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, moist, but well-drained soil.
Plant in full sun. Though wisteria will grow in partial shade, it probably won’t flower. Sun is essential.
If your soil is in poor condition, add compost; otherwise, wisteria will grow in most soils. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Plant in the spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. Space plants 10 to 15 feet apart.
Choose a site that will not overwhelm nearby plants, as wisteria grows quickly and can overtake its neighbors.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant and a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Some gardeners swear by phosphorus to aid flowering. Scratch a couple of cups of bone meal into the soil in the spring and then add some rock phosphate in the fall.
Water your plants if you receive less than one inch of rain each week. (To know how much rain you are getting, you can place an empty tuna can outside and measure the depth of water with a measuring stick.)
PRUNING WISTERIA
Pruning is the secret to good flowering.
Prune wisteria in late winter. Remove at least half of the prior year’s growth, leaving just a few buds per stem.
If you want a more formal appearance, prune again during summer, after traditional flowering.
For more blooms, try cutting back the rampant shoots every two weeks during the summer.
Do you have a new wisteria? Cut the vine back severely right after planting. Then, the next year, cut the main stem or stems back to 3 feet of the previous season’s growth. Once the framework is full size, shorten further extension growth in midsummer to where growth began for that season.
Informally grown, mature plants need little or no subsequent pruning.
For a formally trained plant, cut side shoots back to 6 inches in summer, then shorten them again in winter to 3 buds.
Wisteria will resprout with vigor if cut back severely, but this pruning should be avoided, if possible, because new shoots may take some years before they flower.
PESTS/DISEASES
Dieback, crown gall, leaf spots, virus diseases, Japanese beetle, aphids, leaf miners, scale insects, and mealybugs can be problems.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rhododendron
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Acidic
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Rhododendrons and azaleas, both from the genus Rhododendron, have long been mainstays of late spring because of their spectacular clusters of showy blooms—plus, largeThe flowers are usually tubular-, funnel-, or bell-shaped—and often fragrant. The leaves of the smaller azalea are usually pointed and narrow; the leaves of the rhododendron are generally large and leathery.
These shrubs prefer climates with adequate rainfall and moist summers. The two main azalea groups, evergreen and deciduous (varieties that drop their leaves in the fall) can be found in nearly every part of North America, from the frosty Canadian plains to tropical Florida. The rhododendron types are fussier, preferring environments where it is neither too hot nor too cold (Zones 5 to 8). They need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong flower buds.
With thousands of varieties, there are rhododendrons and azaleas for just about every landscape situation. There are low-growing ground cover azaleas, plants that grow from 1 to 2 feet, as well as plants that can grow up to 25 feet tall. They come in many flower colors, including pink, red, white, yellow, and purple. Though most plants flower in the spring, there are also summer-blooming varieties that add color and charm to the garden. green leaves that often stay green through winter.
PLANTING
Plant in spring or early fall.
Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect.
Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5–6).
Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out.
When shopping for plants, pay attention to when they flower. Early varieties can blossom in March, late ones into July or even the fall.
Buy plants that are a deep green (not yellowed), not wilted, and well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 times as wide.
Set new plants so that their top roots are at soil level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots may rot.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil before filling with remainder of soil.
CARE
Mulch plants every spring with 2 to 5 inches of pine bark chips or pine needles to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture, and keep the soil damp. A lack of water reduces flower-bud formation. (Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk.)
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons sparingly and only when flower buds swell in the early spring, even if they are fall bloomers. Heavy applications of fertilizer will burn the plants.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After flowering, deadhead where practical, to promote vegetative growth rather than seed production. Remove dead flowers from rhododendrons carefully; next year’s buds are just under the old heads.
In regions with severe winters, wrap evergreen rhododendrons with burlap in the fall.
Transplant azaleas and rhododendrons whenever the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Warm-Weather Advisory (Zones 7 to 11)
If your weather heats to above 90°F in spring, avoid white-flowered azaleas. Their thin petals shatter in the heat.
Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade.
Buy plants in 3-gallon cans rather than 1-gallon cans. They’re a better bargain in hot climates. Small plants, with their fewer roots, struggle in the hot late spring and summer.
Cold-Zone Reminders (Zones 3 to 6)
Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems. Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.
Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die.
Pruning
In general, do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons. If you need to reduce height, prune after flowering in the spring.
Otherwise, just remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime.
On young and old plants, simply snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to vine weevil, whiteflies, leafhoppers, lacebugs, scale insects, caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, bud blast, rust, leafy gall, petal blight.
If soil is not sufficiently acidic, root rot and lime-induced chlorosis could occur.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Acidic
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Rhododendrons and azaleas, both from the genus Rhododendron, have long been mainstays of late spring because of their spectacular clusters of showy blooms—plus, largeThe flowers are usually tubular-, funnel-, or bell-shaped—and often fragrant. The leaves of the smaller azalea are usually pointed and narrow; the leaves of the rhododendron are generally large and leathery.
These shrubs prefer climates with adequate rainfall and moist summers. The two main azalea groups, evergreen and deciduous (varieties that drop their leaves in the fall) can be found in nearly every part of North America, from the frosty Canadian plains to tropical Florida. The rhododendron types are fussier, preferring environments where it is neither too hot nor too cold (Zones 5 to 8). They need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong flower buds.
With thousands of varieties, there are rhododendrons and azaleas for just about every landscape situation. There are low-growing ground cover azaleas, plants that grow from 1 to 2 feet, as well as plants that can grow up to 25 feet tall. They come in many flower colors, including pink, red, white, yellow, and purple. Though most plants flower in the spring, there are also summer-blooming varieties that add color and charm to the garden. green leaves that often stay green through winter.
PLANTING
Plant in spring or early fall.
Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect.
Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5–6).
Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out.
When shopping for plants, pay attention to when they flower. Early varieties can blossom in March, late ones into July or even the fall.
Buy plants that are a deep green (not yellowed), not wilted, and well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 times as wide.
Set new plants so that their top roots are at soil level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots may rot.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil before filling with remainder of soil.
CARE
Mulch plants every spring with 2 to 5 inches of pine bark chips or pine needles to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture, and keep the soil damp. A lack of water reduces flower-bud formation. (Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk.)
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons sparingly and only when flower buds swell in the early spring, even if they are fall bloomers. Heavy applications of fertilizer will burn the plants.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After flowering, deadhead where practical, to promote vegetative growth rather than seed production. Remove dead flowers from rhododendrons carefully; next year’s buds are just under the old heads.
In regions with severe winters, wrap evergreen rhododendrons with burlap in the fall.
Transplant azaleas and rhododendrons whenever the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Warm-Weather Advisory (Zones 7 to 11)
If your weather heats to above 90°F in spring, avoid white-flowered azaleas. Their thin petals shatter in the heat.
Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade.
Buy plants in 3-gallon cans rather than 1-gallon cans. They’re a better bargain in hot climates. Small plants, with their fewer roots, struggle in the hot late spring and summer.
Cold-Zone Reminders (Zones 3 to 6)
Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems. Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.
Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die.
Pruning
In general, do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons. If you need to reduce height, prune after flowering in the spring.
Otherwise, just remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime.
On young and old plants, simply snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to vine weevil, whiteflies, leafhoppers, lacebugs, scale insects, caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, bud blast, rust, leafy gall, petal blight.
If soil is not sufficiently acidic, root rot and lime-induced chlorosis could occur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Lilacs do come in seven colors, but most are familiar with the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, which blooms in the northern states for 2 weeks in late May. However, there are early-, mid-, and late-season lilacs, which, when grown together, ensure a steady bloom for at least 6 weeks.
Lilacs are hardy, easy to grow, and low maintenance. They can grow from 5 to 15 feet tall, depending on the variety. The fragrant flowers are good for cutting and attractive to butterflies.
PLANTING
Grow lilacs in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil (at a pH near 7.0). If your soil is in poor condition, add compost to enrich. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Select a site where your lilac will get full sun—at least 6 hours. If lilacs don’t get enough sun, they will not bloom well.
Make sure the site drains well. Lilacs don’t like wet feet and will not bloom with too much water.
Plant in either spring or fall, although the latter is preferred.
If you’re lucky, a friend will give you a sucker, or offshoot, of the root system of one of his plants. Your sucker will look pathetic at first but just dig a hole, backfill it with soil, and stick the sucker in. Then water and wait. In 4 or 5 years, you’ll be rewarded with huge, fragrant blossoms.
Transplanting lilacs from a nursery is also easy. If it’s container-grown, spread out the roots as you settle the plant into the ground; if it’s balled or burlapped, gently remove the covering and any rope before planting. Set the plant 2 or 3 inches deeper than it grew in the nursery, and work topsoil in around the roots. Water in. Then fill in the hole with more topsoil.
Space multiple lilac bushes 5 to 15 feet apart, depending on the variety.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant, followed by mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Lilacs won’t bloom if they’re overfertilized. They can handle a handful of 10-10-10 in late winter, but no more.
After your lilac bush has finished blooming, spread some lime and well-rotted manure around the base. Trim the bush to shape it, and remove suckers at the same time.
Pruning Lilacs
Lilacs bloom on old wood, so it’s critical to prune in the spring right after they bloom. If you prune later in the summer, you may be removing the wood. Here’s a tip: If your lilac flower clusters are getting smaller, time to prune!
Every year after bloom, remove any dead wood. Prune out the oldest canes (down to the ground). Remove the small suckers. Cut back weak branches to a strong shoot. Cut back tall canes to eye height.
If your lilac is old and in really bad shape, remove one-third of the oldest canes (down to the ground) in year one, half of the remaining old wood in year two, and the rest of the old wood in year three. Another option for old lilacs is to chop the whole thing back to about 6 or 8 inches high. It sounds drastic, but lilacs are very hardy. The downside to this option is that it takes a few years to grow back. The upside is less work and more reward, as the lilac will grow back bursting with blooms.
It must be recognized that severe pruning results in the loss of blooms for one to three years. For these reasons, a wise pruning program aims to avoid severe and drastic cuts by giving the bushes annual attention.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to attack by slugs and snails.
Powdery white mildew may appear after a summer of hot, humid weather. It may be unsightly, but it does no harm. Ignore it.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Lilacs do come in seven colors, but most are familiar with the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, which blooms in the northern states for 2 weeks in late May. However, there are early-, mid-, and late-season lilacs, which, when grown together, ensure a steady bloom for at least 6 weeks.
Lilacs are hardy, easy to grow, and low maintenance. They can grow from 5 to 15 feet tall, depending on the variety. The fragrant flowers are good for cutting and attractive to butterflies.
PLANTING
Grow lilacs in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil (at a pH near 7.0). If your soil is in poor condition, add compost to enrich. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Select a site where your lilac will get full sun—at least 6 hours. If lilacs don’t get enough sun, they will not bloom well.
Make sure the site drains well. Lilacs don’t like wet feet and will not bloom with too much water.
Plant in either spring or fall, although the latter is preferred.
If you’re lucky, a friend will give you a sucker, or offshoot, of the root system of one of his plants. Your sucker will look pathetic at first but just dig a hole, backfill it with soil, and stick the sucker in. Then water and wait. In 4 or 5 years, you’ll be rewarded with huge, fragrant blossoms.
Transplanting lilacs from a nursery is also easy. If it’s container-grown, spread out the roots as you settle the plant into the ground; if it’s balled or burlapped, gently remove the covering and any rope before planting. Set the plant 2 or 3 inches deeper than it grew in the nursery, and work topsoil in around the roots. Water in. Then fill in the hole with more topsoil.
Space multiple lilac bushes 5 to 15 feet apart, depending on the variety.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant, followed by mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Lilacs won’t bloom if they’re overfertilized. They can handle a handful of 10-10-10 in late winter, but no more.
After your lilac bush has finished blooming, spread some lime and well-rotted manure around the base. Trim the bush to shape it, and remove suckers at the same time.
Pruning Lilacs
Lilacs bloom on old wood, so it’s critical to prune in the spring right after they bloom. If you prune later in the summer, you may be removing the wood. Here’s a tip: If your lilac flower clusters are getting smaller, time to prune!
Every year after bloom, remove any dead wood. Prune out the oldest canes (down to the ground). Remove the small suckers. Cut back weak branches to a strong shoot. Cut back tall canes to eye height.
If your lilac is old and in really bad shape, remove one-third of the oldest canes (down to the ground) in year one, half of the remaining old wood in year two, and the rest of the old wood in year three. Another option for old lilacs is to chop the whole thing back to about 6 or 8 inches high. It sounds drastic, but lilacs are very hardy. The downside to this option is that it takes a few years to grow back. The upside is less work and more reward, as the lilac will grow back bursting with blooms.
It must be recognized that severe pruning results in the loss of blooms for one to three years. For these reasons, a wise pruning program aims to avoid severe and drastic cuts by giving the bushes annual attention.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to attack by slugs and snails.
Powdery white mildew may appear after a summer of hot, humid weather. It may be unsightly, but it does no harm. Ignore it.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
3
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleia davidii
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) is a beautiful, fast-growing, deciduous shrub with masses of blossoms—long, seductively spiked trusses—that bloom from summer to autumn.
The flowers come in many colors, though butterflies prefer the lavenderpink (mauve) of the species to the white and dark purple cultivars.
Butterfly bushes are hardy to zone 5 and remains evergreen from zone 8 south. The shrub is also low-maintenance, only requiring dead-heading and annual pruning in later winter to encourage flowers and a compact shape.
INVASIVE CONCERNS
Please note that the popular Butterfly Bush, imported from China, is now being classified as an invasive species in most regions, which means it’s crowding out native food that is essential to wildlife, including butterflies and birds. In more gentle climates, it can become a noxious weed. In other climates, it seems to stay contained within a garden’s cultivated soil if gardeners deadhead the flowers once spent.
Also, despite the “butterfly” name, keep in mind that this shrub is not a “host plant” for butterflies in that it does not support butterfly reproduction and lifecycle. Rather, it provides nectar to adult butterflies; think of nectar as their favorite adult beverage! If you do have a Butterfly Bush, be sure to add native host plants such as milkweed if you want the butterflies to stay. See plants that attract butterflies.
PLANTING
Buddleias need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant in spring or fall. See your local frost dates.
Loosen the soil, mix in compost, and dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant container.
When placing the plant in the hole, the top of the rootball should be level with the soil surface
Space plants 5 to 10 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water freely when in growth and sparingly otherwise. In the summer, water if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Avoid fertilizing butterfly bush; too much fertility promotes leaf growth over flower production.
Remove spent flower spikes to encourage new shoots and flower buds.
In addition, it is important to deadhead the flowers just as they start to wither so that this invasive plant doesn’t spread volunteer seeds. Deadheading of this invasive is now required in many states.
Each spring, apply a thin layer of compost and mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
In cold, Northern climates, spread mulch up to 6 inches deep around the trunk to nurture it through the winter.
Buddleias are very late to break dormancy, so don’t be in a hurry to assess winter damage.
The bush should bloom abundantly even in its first year. In warmer climates, the bushes will grow into trees and develop rugged trunks that peel; peeling is normal.
In the northern limit of their range, they behave as herbaceous perennials, dying back to the root in cold winters.
Since they bloom on new wood, even if there is no die-back, cut them back to the ground every spring. Yes, hack to the ground!
Even where winters are mild enough for the stems to survive, prune severely to stimulate abundant growth on which flowers are borne.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to capsid bug, caterpillars, weevils, mullein moth, and spider mites.
Fungal leaf spots and die-backs can occur.
Butterfly bushes are one of many deer-resistant plants.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) is a beautiful, fast-growing, deciduous shrub with masses of blossoms—long, seductively spiked trusses—that bloom from summer to autumn.
The flowers come in many colors, though butterflies prefer the lavenderpink (mauve) of the species to the white and dark purple cultivars.
Butterfly bushes are hardy to zone 5 and remains evergreen from zone 8 south. The shrub is also low-maintenance, only requiring dead-heading and annual pruning in later winter to encourage flowers and a compact shape.
INVASIVE CONCERNS
Please note that the popular Butterfly Bush, imported from China, is now being classified as an invasive species in most regions, which means it’s crowding out native food that is essential to wildlife, including butterflies and birds. In more gentle climates, it can become a noxious weed. In other climates, it seems to stay contained within a garden’s cultivated soil if gardeners deadhead the flowers once spent.
Also, despite the “butterfly” name, keep in mind that this shrub is not a “host plant” for butterflies in that it does not support butterfly reproduction and lifecycle. Rather, it provides nectar to adult butterflies; think of nectar as their favorite adult beverage! If you do have a Butterfly Bush, be sure to add native host plants such as milkweed if you want the butterflies to stay. See plants that attract butterflies.
PLANTING
Buddleias need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant in spring or fall. See your local frost dates.
Loosen the soil, mix in compost, and dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant container.
When placing the plant in the hole, the top of the rootball should be level with the soil surface
Space plants 5 to 10 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water freely when in growth and sparingly otherwise. In the summer, water if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Avoid fertilizing butterfly bush; too much fertility promotes leaf growth over flower production.
Remove spent flower spikes to encourage new shoots and flower buds.
In addition, it is important to deadhead the flowers just as they start to wither so that this invasive plant doesn’t spread volunteer seeds. Deadheading of this invasive is now required in many states.
Each spring, apply a thin layer of compost and mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
In cold, Northern climates, spread mulch up to 6 inches deep around the trunk to nurture it through the winter.
Buddleias are very late to break dormancy, so don’t be in a hurry to assess winter damage.
The bush should bloom abundantly even in its first year. In warmer climates, the bushes will grow into trees and develop rugged trunks that peel; peeling is normal.
In the northern limit of their range, they behave as herbaceous perennials, dying back to the root in cold winters.
Since they bloom on new wood, even if there is no die-back, cut them back to the ground every spring. Yes, hack to the ground!
Even where winters are mild enough for the stems to survive, prune severely to stimulate abundant growth on which flowers are borne.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to capsid bug, caterpillars, weevils, mullein moth, and spider mites.
Fungal leaf spots and die-backs can occur.
Butterfly bushes are one of many deer-resistant plants.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Zinnia elegans
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Yarrow is a native plant that’s practically care-free, making it perfect for borders, ground covers, and open meadows.
Sold as a hardy and versatile perennial, yarrow has showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers rising above clusters of ferny foliage. The flowers may be yellow, red, pink, or a number of shades in between.
Yarrow is pest-resistant, drought-resistant, attracts butterflies, and is excellent for cutting and drying.
It’s also an aromatic herb which has many healing properties!PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrow thrives in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrow in rich soil, the plants may require stalking due to overenthusiastic growth.
Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.
CARE
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Stem rot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Yarrow is a native plant that’s practically care-free, making it perfect for borders, ground covers, and open meadows.
Sold as a hardy and versatile perennial, yarrow has showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers rising above clusters of ferny foliage. The flowers may be yellow, red, pink, or a number of shades in between.
Yarrow is pest-resistant, drought-resistant, attracts butterflies, and is excellent for cutting and drying.
It’s also an aromatic herb which has many healing properties!PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrow thrives in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrow in rich soil, the plants may require stalking due to overenthusiastic growth.
Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.
CARE
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Stem rot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
This attractive plant grows in clusters from 1 to 3 feet tall, and blooms from spring to autumn.
There is also a bushy ground cover variety (Veronica prostrata), which features dense clusters of flowers and grows to only about 10 inches tall.
PLANTING
Grow in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun.
Plant in the spring. (Veronica can be sowed by seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn, but most people start this perennial as a transplant from the nursery.)
Loosen the soil and mix in compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container.
When placing the plant in the hole, ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water in the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Stake tall varieties.
Keep covered with a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture.
Deadhead to extend bloom time.
After the first killing frost, cut back stems to an inch or two above the soil line.
Divide perennials in autumn or spring every few years.
PESTS/DISEASES
Scale insects
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf smut
Root rot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
This attractive plant grows in clusters from 1 to 3 feet tall, and blooms from spring to autumn.
There is also a bushy ground cover variety (Veronica prostrata), which features dense clusters of flowers and grows to only about 10 inches tall.
PLANTING
Grow in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun.
Plant in the spring. (Veronica can be sowed by seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn, but most people start this perennial as a transplant from the nursery.)
Loosen the soil and mix in compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container.
When placing the plant in the hole, ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water in the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Stake tall varieties.
Keep covered with a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture.
Deadhead to extend bloom time.
After the first killing frost, cut back stems to an inch or two above the soil line.
Divide perennials in autumn or spring every few years.
PESTS/DISEASES
Scale insects
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf smut
Root rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: GreenMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel of spring is a perennial flower that grows best in areas with cold winters and dry summers.
There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders.
The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet.
By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors. Most are excellent for cut flowers, too.
Although tulips are a perennial, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in our western mountain regions come closest to this climate.
PLANTING
Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. (See our frost dates.) This is usually during September and October in the north, and October and November in the south. To find the best dates, see our fall bulb planting chart.
Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don’t delay planting the bulbs after purchase.
In southern climates with mild winters, you need to buy pre-chilled bulbs or chill them yourself in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting.
When selecting a site: Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only. Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds.
Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
You’ll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose an appropriate plot size.
Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.
Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.
To deter mice and moles—if they have been a problem—put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in a buried wire cages.
If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.
Don’t lose hope if you’re planting your tulips late in the season—just use these tips.
CARE
Water tulips during dry spells in the fall; otherwise, do not water.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or anything to foster swift drainage.
Compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
Deadhead tulips after flowering.
Allow the foliage to yellow for about 6 weeks after flowering before removing it.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Slugs
Snails
Aphids
Nematodes
Bulb rot
Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: GreenMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel of spring is a perennial flower that grows best in areas with cold winters and dry summers.
There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders.
The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet.
By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors. Most are excellent for cut flowers, too.
Although tulips are a perennial, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in our western mountain regions come closest to this climate.
PLANTING
Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. (See our frost dates.) This is usually during September and October in the north, and October and November in the south. To find the best dates, see our fall bulb planting chart.
Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don’t delay planting the bulbs after purchase.
In southern climates with mild winters, you need to buy pre-chilled bulbs or chill them yourself in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting.
When selecting a site: Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only. Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds.
Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
You’ll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose an appropriate plot size.
Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.
Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.
To deter mice and moles—if they have been a problem—put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in a buried wire cages.
If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.
Don’t lose hope if you’re planting your tulips late in the season—just use these tips.
CARE
Water tulips during dry spells in the fall; otherwise, do not water.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or anything to foster swift drainage.
Compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
Deadhead tulips after flowering.
Allow the foliage to yellow for about 6 weeks after flowering before removing it.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Slugs
Snails
Aphids
Nematodes
Bulb rot
Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
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早起的虫儿：可以说点能听懂的吗
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/BasicNeutral
FLOWER COLOR: Yellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow petals (and occasionally red) and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds.
Tall and coarse, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, though there are also varieties today that have been developed for small spaces and containers.
Most sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not waterlogged. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and many are attractive to bees and birds.
PLANTING
Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sun (6 to 8 hours per day); they prefer long, hot summers to flower well.
Sunflowers have long tap roots which need to stretch out so the plants prefer well-dug, loose, well-draining soil; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across to ensure the soil isn’t too compact.
Find a well-drained location, and prepare your soil by digging an area of about 2-3 feet in circumference to a depth of about 2 feet.
Though they’re not too fussy, sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5).
Sunflowers are heavy feeders so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.
If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Before planting, decide whether or not you want to grow a fun sunflower tower.
PLANTING SUNFLOWER SEEDS
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F.
Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
Plant the large seeds no more than 1 inch deep about 6 inches apart after it has thoroughly warmed, from mid-April to late May. You can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall.
A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.
Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.
If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
CARE
While the plant is small, water around the root zone, about 3 to 4 in. from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.
Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.
Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.
If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier.
Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.
Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/BasicNeutral
FLOWER COLOR: Yellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow petals (and occasionally red) and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds.
Tall and coarse, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, though there are also varieties today that have been developed for small spaces and containers.
Most sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not waterlogged. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and many are attractive to bees and birds.
PLANTING
Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sun (6 to 8 hours per day); they prefer long, hot summers to flower well.
Sunflowers have long tap roots which need to stretch out so the plants prefer well-dug, loose, well-draining soil; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across to ensure the soil isn’t too compact.
Find a well-drained location, and prepare your soil by digging an area of about 2-3 feet in circumference to a depth of about 2 feet.
Though they’re not too fussy, sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5).
Sunflowers are heavy feeders so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.
If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Before planting, decide whether or not you want to grow a fun sunflower tower.
PLANTING SUNFLOWER SEEDS
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F.
Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
Plant the large seeds no more than 1 inch deep about 6 inches apart after it has thoroughly warmed, from mid-April to late May. You can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall.
A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.
Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.
If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
CARE
While the plant is small, water around the root zone, about 3 to 4 in. from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.
Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.
Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.
If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier.
Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.
Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide
1
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