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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This perennial plant is 1-3' tall, producing occasional side branches. Leadplant is usually semi-erect; in partially shaded situations, it will sprawl along the ground in the direction of greater lighter. With age, it becomes increasing woody, assuming that growth and development are not disrupted by occasional fires or browsing from animals. The young stems are light green and covered with white hairs. The compound leaves are whitish to greyish green, depending on the intensity of sunlight reaching the plant. Sometimes fine hairs cover the plant to the extent that it appears to be heavily dusted with white lead, hence its name. The compound leaves are bipinnate, 4-12" long, and may have up to 50 small leaflets, each about ½" long and ¼" wide. The small flowers occur along pubescent spikes, about 2-6" long, at the ends of major branches. These flowers range in color from light to dark purple. Each flower has a single upper petal, which is tubular at first, but later unfolds horizontally to protect the reproductive parts. There are also 8 exerted reddish stamens with bright yellow anthers that are quite conspicuous. There is little or no floral scent. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer and lasts about 3 weeks. The central root occasionally branches, and can extend 15 ft. or more into the soil.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and average to dry soil. Leadplant is not particular about soil type, and it will flourish in loamy, sandy, gravelly, or clay soil. This plant adds nitrogen to the soil. Partial sun is tolerated, but it will flower less abundantly and have a tendency to sprawl. Leadplant is easy to grow, but slow to develop – flowers may not appear for at least 3 years. A wire fence or cage may be necessary to protect young plants from rabbits and other herbivores.
Range & Habitat: The native Leadplant occurs primarily in the northern two-thirds of Illinois, where it is occasional. In southern Illinois, this plant is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include mesic to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, gravel prairies, hill prairies, limestone glades, and Black Oak savannas. The presence of Leadplant is a sign of high quality habitat. Because of its deep roots, recovery from fire is very good.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Leadplant attract long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, and wasps primarily. Among the bees are such visitors as bumblebees, Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Green Metallic bees, and Plasterer bees (Colletes spp.); the Andrenid bee, Andrena quintilis, is an oligolege of Leadplant. The caterpillars of Colias cesonia (Dogface Sulfur) eat the foliage occasionally, but this butterfly often fails to overwinter successfully in Illinois. Other insects that feed on the foliage or flowers of Leadplant include grasshoppers (see Grasshopper Table), caterpillars of moths (see Moth Table), various beetles (see Beetle Table), the plant bug Psallus amorphae, and the leafhopper Scaphytopius cinereus. Many of these insects are an important source of food to insectivorous birds and other animals. Mammalian herbivores, such as deer, rabbits, and livestock, are very fond of this plant. It is high in protein and quite palatable. This can make Leadplant difficult to establish in areas where these animals are abundant.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a true prairie plant.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This perennial plant is usually 1-2' tall, but sometimes it becomes considerably higher; this plant often branches in the upper half. The stems are are pale green, terete, and pubescent-hairy; they have vertical lines of fine hairs. Both alternate and opposite leaves occur along the length of the central stem. The leaves are up to 5" long and 2" across; they are lanceolate in outline, but their structure is primarily simple-pinnate (although some leaves may be double-pinnate with secondary lobes that are few in number and small in size). The primary lobes are narrowly lanceolate or lanceolate in shape and shallow to moderately deep, tapering to blunt narrow tips; the sinuses between the lobes are either flat or concave. Depending on the local ecotype, these lobes are widely spaced along the leaf margins, or they are more abundant and crowded. The leaf margins are toothless or nearly so, and they are either flat or somewhat elevated. Both the upper and lower leaf surfaces are grayish green or whitish green and more or less covered with short fine pubescence.
Western Ragweed (Ambrosia psilostachya) is monoecious, producing spike-like racemes of staminate (male) florets from the upper stems, while cyme-like clusters of pistillate (female) florets are produced below. The staminate racemes are 1-4" in length (becoming longer as they mature), cylindrical in outline, and whitish to yellowish green. The staminate flowerheads are produced along the entire length of their racemes, facing in all directions. Each staminate flowerhead spans 2-5 mm. across, becoming short-campanulate (short bell-shaped) during the blooming period. Each staminate flowerhead has 3-5 phyllaries (floral bracts) that are broadly ovate and pubescent; they are arranged in a single series and joined together along their lower halves. The interior of each staminate flowerhead has 4 or more staminate florets; these florets have stamens with yellow anthers. The peduncles of staminate flowerheads are 1-4 mm. long and pubescent; these flowerheads often droop from their short peduncles. Underneath a cluster of pistillate flowerheads there is a leafy outer bract up to 1¼" long. In addition, pairs of smaller outer bracts are located immediately below individual pistillate flowerheads. Each pistillate flowerhead has a cup-shaped involucre about 8 mm. long and 3 mm. across that has several tooth-like projections; this involucre consists of fused phyllaries (floral bracts) and it is pubescent. The interior of this flowerhead contains a single pistillate floret. The blooming period can occur from mid-summer to autumn, lasting about 1-3 weeks for a colony of plants. The florets are cross-pollinated by the wind. Afterwards, the pistillate florets are replaced by achenes. Mature achenes are 2.5–4 mm. long, dark brown, and obovoid in shape; each achene usually has a short beak at its apex and about 4 tiny tubercles around the edge of its upper margin. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. This plant often forms clonal colonies of varying size from its rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and poor soil. Although this plant can grow perfectly well in moist fertile soil, in Illinois it is usually found on drier soil that contains significant amounts of clay, sand, or gravelly material, as this reduces competition from other ground vegetation. This plant is easy to grow, but it can become aggressive in situations that are well-drained and sunny. It doesn't appear to be bothered much by foliar disease.
Range & Habitat: Western Ragweed occurs occasionally in northern and western Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). It is unclear if this plant is adventive from the west, or native to Illinois. Habitats include upland areas of prairies, old cemeteries, areas along railroads, roadsides, abandoned fields, pastures, and barren waste areas. Western Ragweed is more common in disturbed areas, especially if the soil contains clay, sand, or gravel. Sometimes this plant is used in prairie restorations, or it shows up unexpectedly in prairie restorations as a result of contaminated seed.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are wind-pollinated and rarely attract pollen- or nectar-seeking insects. Caterpillars of the Common Pinkband (Ogdoconta cinereola), Ragweed Flower Moth (Schinia rivulosa), and other moths feed on Western Ragweed and other ragweeds (Ambrosia spp.); see the Moth Table) for a listing of these species. Such grasshoppers as the Little Pasture Grasshopper (Melanoplus confusus), Red-legged Grasshopper (Melanoplus femurrubrum), and Migratory Grasshopper (Melanoplus sanguinipes) feed on the foliage of Western Ragweed (see Grasshopper Table). These grasshoppers are an important source of food to some insectivorous songbirds and upland gamebirds. Other insects that feed on Western Ragweed include the Brown Ambrosia Aphid (Uroleucon ambrosiae), the stink bugs Chlorochroa persimilis and Chlorochroa uhleri, and such leaf beetles as Exema dispar, Microrhopala xerene, and Zygogramma suturalis. Like Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia), the seeds of Western Ragweed are a popular source of food for many kinds of granivorous songbirds and upland gamebirds (see Bird Table). The seeds are nutritious and remain available through the winter months. Some rodents eat the seeds, including the Thirteen-Lined Ground Squirrel (Martin et al., 1951/1961). Mammalian herbivores eat the bitter foliage of this and other ragweeds to a limited extent.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at the Windsor Road Prairie in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Like other ragweeds, the airborne pollen of Western Ragweed (Ambrosia psilostachya) can cause allergic reactions in people during the late summer and fall. This plant has high ecological value to birds, grasshoppers, and other insects. Across its range, there is some variability in the pubescence of its foliage, and in the number and shape of the primary lobes of its leaves. Western Ragweed resembles Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia) to some extent. However, the leaves of Western Ragweed are usually simple-pinnate, while the leaves of Common Ragweed are double-pinnate and more deeply lobed. Plants that display mixed characteristics may be hybrids of these two species.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This is a herbaceous perennial plant. It has relatively few basal leaves that are linear, flat, solid rather than hollow, and about ½-1' in length. They tend to recurve outward from the base of the plant.
The flowering stalk emerges among the leaves and is about 1-1½' tall. It is more stiff than the leaves and remains erect. The attractive flowers are arranged in an umbel at the top of this stem – this umbel is about 2-3" across. Each flower is white, light lavender, or pink, depending on the local genotype, and is shaped like a small star with 3 petals and 3 sepals that flare outward. Each flower is slightly more than ¼" long. The blooming period occurs during late summer for about 3 weeks, by which time the basal leaves will have died down if the weather has been dry. The entire plant has a typical onion-like smell. The root system consists of a bulb with unusually deep secondary roots for such a small plant. This, no doubt, promotes survival during dry weather. If conditions are favorable, the Cliff Onion will slowly cluster at the base, or reseed itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and dry conditions. The soil should be rocky, rather limey, and well-drained. However, this plant will grow in ordinary garden soil and average moisture conditions if competition from taller, more aggressive plants, is eliminated. The Cliff Onion is slow growing, but easy to establish, if the preceding conditions are satisfied, otherwise it is likely to become lost in the surrounding vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Cliff Onion is a rare plant in Illinois, occurring in only a few counties, primarily along the Mississippi River in the SW region of the state. Natural habitats include rocky limestone bluffs and cliffs along rivers, limestone glades, and hill prairies. This plant occurs in more ordinary prairies in areas to the west of Illinois because of the drier conditions.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract small flying insects, primarily flower flies and small bees. Most native herbivores probably do not feed on this plant because of the onion scent and spiciness of the leaves. However, livestock are known to eat the foliage of native onions along with the grass in pastures.
Photographic Location: The above photograph was taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The Cliff Onion has a delicate beauty when in bloom, resembling a starburst effect. Sometimes this plant is called the 'Prairie Onion,' however it is more typically found along rocky cliffs and limestone bluffs near rivers in Illinois. The foliage and bulb of this onion are edible, if somewhat strongly flavored. The Cliff Onion differs from Allium cernuum (Nodding Onion) by its more erect inflorescence and slender leaves. It resembles Allium canadense (Wild Garlic), but doesn't produce any bulbets in the infloresence. The Allium spp. from the Old World, such as Allium vineale (Field Garlic), have round hollow leaves, while those of the New World have flat solid leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This perennial plant consists of a tuft of basal leaves from which one or more flowering stalks emerge. The basal leaves are erect, ascending, or arching; they are up to 12" long and up to 8 mm. across. The basal leaves are linear in shape, medium green, glabrous, and smooth along their margins; they are solid and flattened. Leaf venation is parallel. Each leaf is slightly keeled along its midvein. The flowering stalks are up to 1½' long and more or less erect; they are light green or light reddish purple, glabrous, and terete. Each stalk terminates in a nodding umbel of flowers that emerges from a pair of sack-like membranes; these membranes are deciduous. Each umbel spans about 1½–2" across, consisting of 40-60 pedicellate flowers.
The flowers are individually about ¼" (6 mm.) across, consisting of 6 spreading tepals, 6 exserted stamens, and an ovary with a style. The tepals are white, light lavender, or pink; they are lanceolate in shape. The stamens have white filaments and yellow anthers. The pedicels are ½–1" long; they are light green or light reddish purple, glabrous, and more or less terete. The blooming season usually occurs during mid-summer, lasting 3-4 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules; each capsule contains several small black seeds that it splits open to release. The root system consists of a bulb that is longer than it is wide. Both the bulb and foliage of this plant have a typical onion-like scent. Clonal offsets are produced, forming new bulbs underground.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing black loam, sand, or rocky material. While this plant can survive hot dry summers, it does better with more moisture. Foliar disease is rarely a problem. This plant is easy to grow under cultivation, and it will spread gradually under suitable conditions. It is easier to establish plants by transplanting the bulbs of offsets, rather than by attempting to germinate the seeds.
Range & Habitat: Nodding Onion is an uncommon plant that occurs only in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is native. Habitats include black soil prairies, sandy pannes, and thinly wooded bluffs. Much of the prairie habitat where this plant once occurred has been destroyed by development. Nodding Onion is normally found in high-quality natural areas, although it could escape from cultivation into more disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the nodding flowers attract primarily bees, including honeybees, bumblebees, Anthophorine bees (Anthophora spp.), and Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp.). Insects that feed destructively on the foliage, bulbs, and other parts of Nodding Onion and other onion species (Allium spp.) include the Onion Plant Bug (Lindbergocapsus allii) and a similar plant bug (Lindbergocapsus ainsliei), larvae of the False Japanese Beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), larvae of the Onion Maggot (Delia antiqua), larvae of the Black Onion fly (Tritoxa flava), larvae of the Onion Bulb Fly (Eumerus strigatus), and Onion Thrips (Thrips tabaci). Mammalian herbivores usually avoid Allium spp., although cattle and other livestock may browse on their foliage along with the grass in pastures, causing an off-flavor in their milk.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at the wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois, and at a restored prairie in Meadowbrook Park of the same city.
Comments: This plant is easy to identify because of the nodding habit of its umbels of flowers. Nodding umbels of flowers are an evolutionary adaptation that tends to restrict insect visitors to bees. Other insects are more reluctant to hang upside down while attempting to feed on nectar or pollen. The nodding habit may also protect the nectar from rain. Compared to 2 other species that are native, the Cliff Onion (Allium stellatum) and Wild Garlic (Allium canadense), Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) has wider leaves. Compared to the non-native Field Garlic (Allium vineale), Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), and Cultivated Onion (Allium cepa), the leaves of Nodding Onion are flattened and solid throughout, rather than hollow.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This perennial plant consists of a rosette of basal leaves that are about 6-12" long and 2-3 mm. across. These erect to semi-erect leaves are linear, flat, and often slightly arching; they are medium green and glabrous. Each leaf has a poorly defined keel along its midvein, while its margins are smooth. Occasionally, flowering stalks emerge from the ground that are about the same height as the leaves, or slightly higher. These stalks are terete (round in cross-section), rather than flat, and they are held stiffly erect. Each stalk terminates in an inflorescence that has a sack-like covering spanning about ¾" across. This sack-like covering is white-membranous and ovoid in shape, tapering into a long beak at its apex. This covering splits open and withers away to reveal an umbel of about 6-12 pedicellate flowers or a similar number of sessile bulblets (frequently some combination of both).
The star-shaped flowers are about ½" across. Each flower has 6 tepals, 6 stamens, and a light green ovary with a style. The tepals are lanceolate to elliptic in shape and white, light pink, or pink. The bulblets are about ¼" long, ovoid in shape, and light green to pinkish red. Wild Garlic is especially likely to flower or have reddish bulblets in a sunny situation. The pedicels of the flowers are about ¾" long, medium green, glabrous, and terete. The blooming period occurs during early summer and lasts about 3-4 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent, although the foliage exudes a typical onion scent. After the blooming period, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules; each capsule contains several small dark seeds. The root system consists of a bulb with thick fibrous roots, from which offsets may occasionally develop. This plant can also reproduce by its seeds and/or aerial bulblets.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a fertile loam. This plant also grows in light shade in wooded areas, but it is less likely to flower (instead, only aerial bulblets are produced). While growth is best in a fertile loam, other kinds of soil are tolerated. Periods of dry weather are also tolerated. While Wild Garlic spreads readily by means of offsets and bulblets, it often fails to produce viable seeds. This is one of the first plants to develop leaves during the spring.
Range & Habitat: Wild Garlic occurs in every county of Illinois, where it is native and quite common. Habitats include moist to mesic black soil prairies, upland and floodplain woodlands, moist meadows near rivers and woodlands, thickets, banks of streams, thinly wooded bluffs, abandoned fields, pastures, areas along railroads, roadsides, and waste areas. Wild Garlic has low fidelity to any particular habitat; it is often observed in degraded prairies and woodlands. This plant doesn't compete well against taller forbs, such as Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), preferring areas with less ground cover.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract the Onion Bee (Heriades carinatum), mason bees (Hoplitis spp.), Stelid bees (Stelis spp.), Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp.), plasterer bees (Colletes spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Syrphid flies, bee flies (Bombylius spp.), and wasps. Other insects suck plant juices, feed on bulbs, and other parts of Wild Garlic and other Allium spp. These species include the Green Stink Bug (Acrosternum hilaris), the Onion Plant Bug (Lindbergocapsus allii), larvae of the False Japanese Beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), the Onion Maggot (Delia antiqua), larvae of the Black Onion Fly (Tritoxa flava), larvae of the Onion Bulb Fly (Eumerus strigatus), and Onion Thrips (Thrips tabaci). During the early spring when little else is green, the vernal basal leaves of Wild Garlic are occasionally browsed by White-tailed Deer (personal observation). Other hoofed mammalian herbivores, such as cattle, will consume Wild Garlic along with grass and other plants. This can cause the milk of such animals to have an off-flavor. Rabbits avoid consumption of this plant because they appear to dislike the onion scent and spicy taste of the foliage. The foliage and bulbs are edible to humans, although the consumption of large amounts may be slightly toxic.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Red Bison Railroad Prairie in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: This is the most common species of native onion (Allium sp.) in Illinois. Wild Garlic (Allium canadense) can be readily distinguished from other native onions, such as the Cliff Onion (Allium stellatum) and Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum), by the presence of aerial bulblets in its inflorescence. An introduced onion in Illinois, Field Garlic (Allium vineale), also produces such bulblets. However, the leaves of Field Garlic are elliptic in cross-section with a hollow interior (at least at their bases), while Wild Garlic has leaves that are flat and solid throughout. There is a variety of the Wild Garlic (Allium canadense var. mobilense) that produces only flowers, rather than bulblets and flowers, or only bulblets. However, it is less common than the typical variety, as shown in the photographs.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This perennial plant is 2-3½' tall, branching occasionally near the apex. The four-angled stems are light green and glabrous to finely pubescent. The opposite leaves are up to 4" long and 2" across, and they have short petioles. The leaves are cordate to broadly lanceolate in shape and their margins are crenate to crenate-serrate. The upper surface of the leaves is conspicuously veined and dull green, while the lower surface is white and finely canescent. The foliage has an anise scent.
The upper stems terminate in spikes of flowers about 3-6" long. The small flowers are arranged in dense whorls that are crowded along the spike, although sometimes the whorls are less crowded and more interrupted. The calyx of a flower is tubular and has five teeth; it is usually dull blue-violet or a similar color, becoming more colorful toward its tips. The tubular flowers are about 1/3" (8 mm.) long, extending beyond the calyx. They are blue-violet. The corolla of a flower is divided into a short upper lip and a longer lower lip. The lower lip has 2 small lateral lobes and a larger central lobe. Exerted from the throat of the flower are 4 stamens with blue-violet anthers, and a style that is cleft toward its tip. The flowers bloom in scattered locations along the spikes for about 1-2 months from mid- to late summer. During this time, calyx of each flower remains somewhat colorful. There is no floral scent. The flowers are replaced by nutlets that are oval-shaped and smooth. The root system produces a taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and mesic to dry conditions. The soil can consist of loam, clay-loam, or contain some rocky material. Foliar disease isn't a significant problem, although some of the lower leaves may drop from the central stem in response to a drought. Occasionally, slugs and insects will feed on the leaves, creating holes. This member of the Mint family is more resistant to drought than many others.
Range & Habitat: In the wild, Anise Hyssop is rare in Illinois; it is known to occur in only Menard county in central Illinois (see Distribution Map). This species is more common in areas that lie northwest of Illinois. Typical habitats include openings in dry upland forests, upland areas of prairies, scrubby barrens, and thickets. Cultivated forms of Anise Hyssop are often grown in flower gardens; these cultivars are often hybrids and vary in their fidelity to the wild forms of this plant. In Menard county, the population of plants was likely introduced. Other populations in the wild, if they exist, are likely to be plants that have escaped cultivation.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by honeybees, bumblebees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (Lasioglossum spp., etc.), and Masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), which seek nectar or pollen. The flowers are also visited by an oligolectic bee, Dufourea monardae, which has extended its range into Illinois. Other occasional floral visitors are Syrphid flies, bee flies, and various butterflies, skippers, and moths. Mammalian herbivores normally avoid consumption of this plant as the anise scent of the foliage is repugnant to them. The anise scent may also deter some leaf-chewing insect species.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken of plants growing in the wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Because of its rarity, Anise Hyssop is not normally thought of as a prairie species in Illinois, nor does it appear in many field guides of prairie plants for the tallgrass prairie. This plant does occur in the northwestern area of the tallgrass prairie, however, with a few scattered remnant populations elsewhere. Other members of this genus are woodland species. One of them, Agastache scrophulariaefolia (Purple Giant Hyssop), has flowers with similar coloration to Anise Hyssop. However, the foliage of Purple Giant Hyssop doesn't have an anise scent and the the undersides of its leaves are green, rather than white. Purple Giant Hyssop is more pubescent or hairier than Anise Hyssop, and it tends to be a taller plant. The calyx of each flower remains green for this species, unlike Anise Hyssop, where each calyx assumes a coloration that is more similar to the flowers. This latter characteristic can cause Anise Hyssop to look like it is in flower, even when it is not.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 1-2' tall that usually branches abundantly. It is more or less erect. The slender stems are rather angular with flat ridges, green to reddish purple, and hairless to mostly hairless. The opposite leaves are up to 3" long and 1/8" (3 mm.) across; they are green to purplish/reddish green, linear, glabrous, and sessile.
Individual flowers and their buds are produced from the axils of the leaves on the upper and outer stems; these flowering stems can be regarded as leafy racemes. The swollen flower buds are conspicuously white. Each flower is about ½–¾" across, consisting of a short tubular corolla with 5 petal-like lobes and a tubular calyx with 5 short teeth. The corolla is pink, purplish pink, or medium purple; its 5 rounded lobes are quite large in relation to its tubular base. The lobes are finely ciliate along their margins. The lower interior of the corolla has dark purple spots and a pair of faint yellow lines. Near the upper interior of the corolla, there are 4 stamens with hairy white anthers and an undivided white style (sometimes with a pale yellow tip). The slender pedicels of the flowers are green to reddish purple; they are usually as long or longer than the flowers (at least ½" long). The blooming period occurs during the late summer or early fall and lasts about 2-3 weeks. Each flower lasts only a day or two before its corolla falls to the ground. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a globoid seed capsule containing many small seeds that can be blown about by the wind. The root system is fibrous. Slender False Foxglove is partially parasitic on other plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to slightly dry conditions, and a rather loose, friable soil containing silt or sand that is slightly to moderately acidic. This species also adapts to thin rocky soil. Its growth is more robust when a suitable host plant is present nearby.
Range & Habitat: Slender False Foxglove is occasional throughout Illinois, where it is native. Habitats include moist to mesic prairies, sand prairies, savannas, sandy savannas, woodland borders, sandstone glades, thickets, low sand flats, silty or sandy roadside ditches, and edges of fields. This species tends to occur in slightly disturbed habitats with infertile soil and sparse ground vegetation. It has low fidelity to any particular habitat.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts long-tongued bees (bumblebees, honeybees, and Large Leaf-Cutting bees), Panurgine bees (Calliopsis andreniformis & others), and butterflies. Some Halictid bees collect pollen, while Syrphid flies occasionally feed on the pollen. Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) sometimes cut the petals (lobes) of the flowers for nesting material. Among these various insects, the long-tongued bees and Panurgine bees are more effective at cross-pollination of the flowers (see Robertson, 1929). The caterpillars of the butterfly Junonia coenia (Buckeye) feed on the foliage. Mammalian herbivores may browse on the foliage of Slender False Foxglove, although it is reportedly toxic to sheep.
Photographic Location: The edge of a field in Vermilion County, Illinois. This species was also growing along the roadside in the same area.
Comments: Slender False Foxglove is very showy during the short period in which it is in full bloom. This is the most common and widespread Agalinus sp. in Illinois, probably because it can adapt to a broad range of habitats. There is some variation in the length of the leaves, the presence or absence of fascicled leaves, the size of the flowers, and the color of the flowers across different local populations. Such minor variations have led to the description of different varieties and even different species by some authorities. Generally, Slender False Foxglove differs from many other Agalinus spp. by having flowers with shorter corolla tubes and longer pedicels. In contrast, Agalinus purpureus (Purple False Foxglove) has more elongated flowers (up to 1" long) and shorter pedicels (less than ¼"). Slender False Foxglove also has darker foliage (green to reddish purple) and darker seeds than some Agalinus spp. Members of this latter group (e.g., Agalinus skinneriana) have pale green to yellowish green foliage and pale-colored seeds.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This annual plant is 1–2½' tall, branching occasionally. It has a tendency to sprawl in the absence of supportive vegetation. The dark green stems are grooved and hairless. The opposite leaves are 1-3" long, dark green, and linear. They have smooth margins and a prominent midvein. The leaves are usually hairless, although new growth may be slightly pubescent. Secondary leaves may develop from the axils of the primary leaves along the central stem, but they are smaller in size than the latter. Some of the upper stems develop racemes of flowers. These flowers are up to 1" long and across, and vary in color from lavender to purple.
The corolla of each flower is tubular and has 5 spreading lobes that are ciliate, consisting of 2 upper lobes, 2 sides lobes, and a lower lobe. Within the throat of the corolla there are specks of dark purple and 2 patches of pale yellow. There are abundant white hairs within the corolla where the reproductive organs are located. The anthers are pale yellow and the narrow style is white. The green calyx is tubular and divided into 5 triangular lobes. These lobes are one-half the length of the calyx tube or less. The calyx is hairless and has little or no reticulation. The blooming period occurs from late summer until the fall, and lasts about a month. There is no noticeable floral scent. After the flowers are fertilized and wither away, there develops rounded capsules that are a little longer than the calyx tube. These capsules contain numerous tiny seeds. When the capsules split open at the top, gusts of wind can distribution the seeds a considerable distance. The root system is fibrous and possibly parasitic on other species of plants. Purple False Foxglove spreads by reseeding itself, and does not reproduce vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and moist soil that is sandy or peaty. Because the seeds are small, young plantlets may wither away if they are allowed to become too dry. A soil with an acid pH is preferred.
Stem & Leaves
Range & Habitat: Purple False Foxglove occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is native. This is one of the more common Agalinis spp. in the state. Habitats include moist sand prairies, sandy savannas, paths and openings in sandy woodlands, boggy areas, and interdunal sandflats near Lake Michigan. This plant appears to thrive in areas with occasional disturbance as this removes some of the competing vegetation.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), and leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.) visit the flowers for nectar and pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Junonia coenia (Buckeye) feed on the foliage. A flea beetle, Kuschelina fallax, feeds on a very similar species, Agalinis fasciculata (Beach False Foxglove), and it is possible that this flea beetle feeds on other Agalinis spp., including Purple False Foxglove. Very little appears to be known about the relationships of these plants to mammalian herbivores as sources of food.
Photographic Location: Along a path in a sandy savanna at Hooper Branch Savanna Nature Preserve in Iroquois County, Illinois, where this plant species is locally abundant.
Comments: The flowers are quite attractive and produced in abundance during the late summer or fall. At one time the scientific name for this species was Gerardia purpurea, but the purple-flowered false foxgloves were reassigned to the genus Agalinis, while the yellow-flowered false foxgloves were reassigned to the genus Aureolaria. Distinguishing the different Agalinis spp. can be tricky as they have similar foliage and flowers. Purple False Foxglove has larger flowers (up to 1" long and across) than some other Agalinis spp. and they occur on pedicels (flowering stalks) that are shorter than the tubular calyx (the pedicels are about 1/8" long). The flowers are always some shade of purple or lavender, while the flowers of some Agalinis spp. are often pinkish in appearance. Purple False Foxglove is quite similar in appearance to Agalinis fasciculata (Beach False Foxglove), however this latter species has secondary leaves that are nearly as large as the primary leaves (i.e., the leaves appear to be whorled along the major stems). If they are present, such secondary leaves are smaller in size than the primary leaves in Purple False Foxglove.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
It grows wild in tropical climates around the world and is cultivated for agricultural and medicinal uses. Aloe is also used for decorative purposes and grows successfully indoors as a potted plant.
It is found in many consumer products including beverages, skin lotion, cosmetics, or ointments for minor burns and sunburns. There is little scientific evidence of the effectiveness or safety of Aloe vera extracts for either cosmetic or medicinal purposes. Studies finding positive evidence are frequently contradicted by other studies.
It is found in many consumer products including beverages, skin lotion, cosmetics, or ointments for minor burns and sunburns. There is little scientific evidence of the effectiveness or safety of Aloe vera extracts for either cosmetic or medicinal purposes. Studies finding positive evidence are frequently contradicted by other studies.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over a hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Orchids belong to one of the largest plant families. There are almost 30,000 species of orchids, though most gardeners will likely only grow a handful of species commonly sold at garden and home improvement centers. These types are popular because they survive—and even thrive—within a typical home environment. The biggest tip for being a successful orchid grower is simply to not be afraid. They look exotic and fussy, but most orchids really aren’t. You can grow beautiful orchids at home. Here’s how.
How to Choose the Right Orchid for your Growing Conditions
Most likely you’ll be growing one of a handful of orchids that are easy to find for sale. Phalaenopsis, sometimes called “moth orchid,” is the easiest to grow and what you find for sale at the grocery store. It likes low light and humid (but not stagnant) air. An east window is perfect for these plants. Other types of common orchids, such as oncidium, dendrobium, vanda, and cattleya, need more light and will thrive in a bright east window or west window as long as the sun is not shining directly on the plants. Select an orchid type that will thrive in the light conditions you can offer. You’ll also want to make sure the room temperature is between 65° and 80°F, as orchids are tropical plants that require a warm environment.
How to Water Orchids
Orchids grow best with consistent moisture. For home gardeners this translates to watering once or twice per week by holding the pot under the faucet and allowing the potting mix to be thoroughly soaked by lukewarm water. Take care not to let water sit in the leaves, as this can cause disease problems.
How to Make Orchids Rebloom
This is one of the biggest mysteries to new orchid growers! First, cut back the flower stalk to the first leaf after the plant blooms. Some orchid varieties will rebloom on the same stalk, while others will sprout a secondary bloom stalk at the end of the main stalk. Some plants take up to a year to grow a new flower stalk and rebloom. Many orchids respond to a period of cooler night temperatures in the fall. Try setting your plants outside as nighttime temperatures drop to fifty degrees overnight. Leave plants outside for a few weeks, and then bring in and resume fertilizing. Be patient. Your orchids will bloom again!
How to Help Prevent Orchid Pests
Good care goes a long way toward keeping pests and diseases from killing the plants or destroying the blooms. One additional thing you can do is to improve air circulation by placing a small house fan in the room where you grow orchids and setting it to rotate on the low setting. This will help keep bacterial and fungal pests at bay.
How to Choose the Right Orchid for your Growing Conditions
Most likely you’ll be growing one of a handful of orchids that are easy to find for sale. Phalaenopsis, sometimes called “moth orchid,” is the easiest to grow and what you find for sale at the grocery store. It likes low light and humid (but not stagnant) air. An east window is perfect for these plants. Other types of common orchids, such as oncidium, dendrobium, vanda, and cattleya, need more light and will thrive in a bright east window or west window as long as the sun is not shining directly on the plants. Select an orchid type that will thrive in the light conditions you can offer. You’ll also want to make sure the room temperature is between 65° and 80°F, as orchids are tropical plants that require a warm environment.
How to Water Orchids
Orchids grow best with consistent moisture. For home gardeners this translates to watering once or twice per week by holding the pot under the faucet and allowing the potting mix to be thoroughly soaked by lukewarm water. Take care not to let water sit in the leaves, as this can cause disease problems.
How to Make Orchids Rebloom
This is one of the biggest mysteries to new orchid growers! First, cut back the flower stalk to the first leaf after the plant blooms. Some orchid varieties will rebloom on the same stalk, while others will sprout a secondary bloom stalk at the end of the main stalk. Some plants take up to a year to grow a new flower stalk and rebloom. Many orchids respond to a period of cooler night temperatures in the fall. Try setting your plants outside as nighttime temperatures drop to fifty degrees overnight. Leave plants outside for a few weeks, and then bring in and resume fertilizing. Be patient. Your orchids will bloom again!
How to Help Prevent Orchid Pests
Good care goes a long way toward keeping pests and diseases from killing the plants or destroying the blooms. One additional thing you can do is to improve air circulation by placing a small house fan in the room where you grow orchids and setting it to rotate on the low setting. This will help keep bacterial and fungal pests at bay.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
What we think of as the quintessential southern plant, the azalea, is actually mostly native to Asia. There are a few native to the United States, but the plants with huge flowers in pink, white, red, burgundy, and coral are imports. No matter! They’re a must-have in zones 6 to 9 for their amazing spring show. As shrubs go, azaleas are of the “little work, big reward” variety, so they’re definitely worth considering for your own garden and landscape.
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Materials
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
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