文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant has branching leafy stems that are 4–16" long. These stems have a tendency to sprawl and cling to adjacent vegetation; they are light green to light greenish purple, and 4-angled. The stems have short stiff hairs along their angles, otherwise they are hairless. Whorls of 4 spreading leaves (never 5–6 leaves) occur at intervals along these stems; these leaves are sessile, or nearly so. Individual leaves are 6-19 mm. (¼–¾") long, narrowly elliptic or narrowly elliptic-oblanceolate in shape, and toothless along their margins. The leaf tips are rounded. The leaf surfaces are yellowish green to medium green; short stiff hairs occur along the margins of the leaves and along the underside of their central veins. The short stiff hairs of both the stems and leaves can cling to neighboring vegetation or objects. Each leaf has a prominent central vein. The stems often terminate in small clusters of 2-3 flowers; either solitary or small clusters of 2-3 flowers are also produced from the axils of leaves.
Each flower is about 1.5–2 mm. across, consisting of a white corolla with 3 lobes, 3 stamens, 2 styles that are joined together at the base, and 2 spheroid light green ovaries that are connected together. The lobes of the corolla are oval-ovate in shape. The pedicels of the flowers are usually longer than the corresponding leaves. These pedicels are light green to light purplish green and usually more or less curved; they have short stiff hairs that can cling to adjacent vegetation or objects. The pedicels become even longer as the ovaries mature. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to late summer for about 1½ months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Afterwards, the maturing paired ovaries expand in size, changing color from light green (or light purple) to brown (or black) at maturity. These ovaries are hairless and single-seeded; they eventually split apart. The small seeds are spheroid in shape and partially hollow inside; they are capable of floating on water and being distributed by it. The root system is shallow and fibrous.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, shallow water or wet conditions, a substrate containing some sand or organic material, and a relatively cool climate.
Range & Habitat: Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum) is uncommon in Illinois, occurring in the NE section of the state, and a central section of the state along or near the Illinois River (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the southern range-limit of this species. It is more widely distributed in North America further to the north and it also occurs in Eurasia. Habitats include edges of sphagnum bogs, cattail marshes, low sandy areas along rivers, and northern swamps. In Illinois, Small Bedstraw is found in high quality wetlands in natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Various insects feed on foliage or sap of bedstraws (Galium spp.). These insect feeders include the larvae of a leaf-mining fly (Galiomyza galiivora), larvae of the Bedstraw Midge (Dasineura americana), larvae of an introduced sawfly (Halidamia affinis), and larvae of the Galium Sphinx (Hyles gallii); see Spencer & Steyskal, 1986; Felt, 1917; Smith, 2006; Wagner, 2005). Other insects that have been observed to feed on bedstraws include aphids, the larvae of Geometer moths, plant bugs (Miridae), stinkbugs (Pentatomidae), and ebony bugs (Thyreocoridae). The nectar and pollen of the flowers of these plants attract primarily small bees and flies (Robertson, 1929). Bedstraws that inhabit wetlands are a minor source of food to Muskrats (Hamerstrom & Blake, 1939).
Photographic Location: A cattail marsh near Volo Bog in Lake County, Illinois.
Comments: This bedstraw is quite small in size and rather inconspicuous. It can be distinguished from other bedstraw species (Galium spp.) primarily by the 3-lobed corollas of its flowers, the whorls of 4 leaves along its stems, the long curved pedicels of its flowers or fruits, and its strong preference for wetland habitats. The only other bedstraw species that produces 3-lobed flowers in Illinois, Stiff Bedstraw (Galium tinctorium), is a little larger in size overall. Unlike Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum), Stiff Bedstraw sometimes has whorls of 5-6 leaves along its stems and sometimes it also produces 4-lobed flowers (even on the same plant). The pedicels of Stiff Bedstraw with maturing fruits are shorter in length and more straight than those of Small Bedstraw, and they are hairless. Another similar bedstraw, Wild Madder (Galium obtusum), is also slightly larger in size than Small Bedstraw. Wild Madder always produces flowers with 4-lobed corollas; it has whorls of 4-6 leaves along its stems, and its stems lack the short stiff hairs that are found on the stems of Small Bedstraw and Stiff Bedstraw. Unlike many other bedstraws, all three of these species have hairless ovaries/fruits. Another common name of Galium trifidum is Three-petaled Bedstraw.
Each flower is about 1.5–2 mm. across, consisting of a white corolla with 3 lobes, 3 stamens, 2 styles that are joined together at the base, and 2 spheroid light green ovaries that are connected together. The lobes of the corolla are oval-ovate in shape. The pedicels of the flowers are usually longer than the corresponding leaves. These pedicels are light green to light purplish green and usually more or less curved; they have short stiff hairs that can cling to adjacent vegetation or objects. The pedicels become even longer as the ovaries mature. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to late summer for about 1½ months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Afterwards, the maturing paired ovaries expand in size, changing color from light green (or light purple) to brown (or black) at maturity. These ovaries are hairless and single-seeded; they eventually split apart. The small seeds are spheroid in shape and partially hollow inside; they are capable of floating on water and being distributed by it. The root system is shallow and fibrous.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, shallow water or wet conditions, a substrate containing some sand or organic material, and a relatively cool climate.
Range & Habitat: Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum) is uncommon in Illinois, occurring in the NE section of the state, and a central section of the state along or near the Illinois River (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the southern range-limit of this species. It is more widely distributed in North America further to the north and it also occurs in Eurasia. Habitats include edges of sphagnum bogs, cattail marshes, low sandy areas along rivers, and northern swamps. In Illinois, Small Bedstraw is found in high quality wetlands in natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Various insects feed on foliage or sap of bedstraws (Galium spp.). These insect feeders include the larvae of a leaf-mining fly (Galiomyza galiivora), larvae of the Bedstraw Midge (Dasineura americana), larvae of an introduced sawfly (Halidamia affinis), and larvae of the Galium Sphinx (Hyles gallii); see Spencer & Steyskal, 1986; Felt, 1917; Smith, 2006; Wagner, 2005). Other insects that have been observed to feed on bedstraws include aphids, the larvae of Geometer moths, plant bugs (Miridae), stinkbugs (Pentatomidae), and ebony bugs (Thyreocoridae). The nectar and pollen of the flowers of these plants attract primarily small bees and flies (Robertson, 1929). Bedstraws that inhabit wetlands are a minor source of food to Muskrats (Hamerstrom & Blake, 1939).
Photographic Location: A cattail marsh near Volo Bog in Lake County, Illinois.
Comments: This bedstraw is quite small in size and rather inconspicuous. It can be distinguished from other bedstraw species (Galium spp.) primarily by the 3-lobed corollas of its flowers, the whorls of 4 leaves along its stems, the long curved pedicels of its flowers or fruits, and its strong preference for wetland habitats. The only other bedstraw species that produces 3-lobed flowers in Illinois, Stiff Bedstraw (Galium tinctorium), is a little larger in size overall. Unlike Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum), Stiff Bedstraw sometimes has whorls of 5-6 leaves along its stems and sometimes it also produces 4-lobed flowers (even on the same plant). The pedicels of Stiff Bedstraw with maturing fruits are shorter in length and more straight than those of Small Bedstraw, and they are hairless. Another similar bedstraw, Wild Madder (Galium obtusum), is also slightly larger in size than Small Bedstraw. Wild Madder always produces flowers with 4-lobed corollas; it has whorls of 4-6 leaves along its stems, and its stems lack the short stiff hairs that are found on the stems of Small Bedstraw and Stiff Bedstraw. Unlike many other bedstraws, all three of these species have hairless ovaries/fruits. Another common name of Galium trifidum is Three-petaled Bedstraw.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
6.Plant the Container
Once you are happy with the arrangement, remove the plants from the container, then begin removing them from their nursery pots and placing them back into the container, one-by-one. The soil in the nursery pots may be fairly coarse and loose, so be careful when removing the plants. Hold the plant gently at the top with the stem between two fingers. Turn the pot over on its side and gently tap the bottom of the pot and ease the plant out. (If you are handling a spiny succulent, make sure to use gloves when doing this.)
Once all plants are placed in the container, duplicating the design you want, gently pack additional succulent potting soil around each plant. As you do this, make sure to keep the plants at the same level they were growing at in their nursery pots—don't bury them deeper than they were already growing.
Make certain that you have filled in all the holes and spaces between the plants and also between the plants and the sides of the container. If you don’t, the roots will dry out, which can be lethal to your plant.
7.Finishing Touches
Gently remove any soil that is covering leaves and stems of the plants. You can do this with a soft-bristled brush, or even by gently blowing on the plants.
To give your container a finished look, cover the surface of the potting soil with a topdressing of some form of coarser stone, such as fine gravel, pebbles, sea glass, or marbles. The topdressing material can be brightly colored or neutral, depending on the look you want to achieve. Using a contrasting colored material for a topdressing can add zing to a pot; a more subtle topdressing can add elegance. The right topdressing can tie all the elements in your pot together or it can make plants stand out in contrast.
8.Caring for Your Succulents
To care for your succulent container garden, the goal is to mimic the conditions they would experience naturally.
During spring and summer—the growing season for most succulents— keep the soil moist, not wet. It's better to let the soil get a little dry between watering than it is to over-water. During the winter, when succulent plants are normally dormant, water much less frequently, keeping the soil on the dry side but not letting it dry out entirely.
Fertilization should be fairly minimal with succulent plants, and may not be needed at all. It will depend largely on the type of plants you are growing—research each species to learn its needs. If feeding is called for, do it only during the active growing season, using a diluted liquid fertilizer designed for succulents.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Description: This perennial plant is ¾–2½' long. It either floats on water or sprawls across the ground. The stems are light green to red (often the latter), glabrous to sparsely pubescent, and terete. Alternate leaves along these stems are 1¼–3" long and ½–1" across; they are elliptic, oblong-elliptic, oblanceolate, or oblong-oblanceolate in shape and smooth along their margins. The leaves are usually glossy green in appearance, although sometimes they develop patches of red or yellow. The upper leaf surface is glabrous, while the lower leaf surface is glabrous to sparsely pubescent. The leaf bases taper gradually into slender petioles about ½–2" long. Individual flowers develop from the axils of the middle to upper leaves on erect to semi-erect pedicels about 1–3" long. Each flower is about 1" across, consisting of 5 yellow petals, 5 light green sepals, 10 yellow stamens, and a narrowly cylindrical pistil with a single style. The petals are obovate in shape with pale pinnate nerves, while the smaller sepals are lanceolate. Compared to the size of the flower, both the stamens and style are relatively short. Between the apex of the pedicel and the bottom of the pistil, there is a pair of tiny bractlets (about 1.0–1.5 mm. in length). The blooming period occurs from late spring to early fall, lasting several months. The flowers are diurnal.
Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by cylindrical seed capsules about 1–1½" long. Each seed capsule has 5 narrow cells, and each cell contains a row of seeds. The seeds are enclosed in chunky outer coatings (endocarps); they are about 1.0-1.5 mm. in length. The root system is fibrous and fleshy. When the nodes of the stems lie on wet ground, they are capable of developing new fibrous roots, from which new plants are produced vegetatively. Sometimes the root system produces small bladders that keep individual plants more buoyant in the water. This plant often forms large colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet conditions, and muddy soil, although this plant can adapt to shallow water as a floating aquatic. Creeping Water Primrose (Ludwigia peploides glabrescens) can spread aggressively in shallow wetlands and muddy areas. It is potentially invasive.
Range & Habitat: Creeping Water Primrose is locally common and native to southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon and probably adventive in most areas (see Distribution Map). This species is slowly spreading northward. Habitats include borders of ponds, shallow areas of lakes, sluggish streams, swamps, marshes, and ditches. In some of these habitats, Creeping Water Primrose can become the dominant shoreline plant, forming large colonies.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by bees, including honeybees, digger bees (Eucerine), and Halictid bees. Other visitors, such as flies and skippers, are less effective at cross-pollination. These insects obtain nectar and/or pollen from the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on Creeping Water Primrose. This includes the flea beetles, Altica litigata and Lysathia ludoviciana, and a leafhopper, Draeculacephala inscripta. The Mallard and possibly other ducks feed on the seed capsules. Because of the large dense colonies that this plant often forms, it provides good cover along shorelines for various insects, frogs, and other wetland wildlife.
Photographic Location: Muddy shore of a pond in southern Illinois.
Comments: Creeping Water Primrose has showy flowers and attractive foliage. Unfortunately, it is sometimes too aggressive for its own good. It can be distinguished from other Ludwigia spp. by its larger 5-petaled flowers and sprawling semi-aquatic habit. Across its range in the United States and tropical America, different varieties of this species have been described, although only var. glabrescens has been found in Illinois. This variety can be distinguished by its more glabrous foliage. Another scientific name of this wetland plant is Jussiaea repens glabrescens, while an alternative common name is Creeping Primrose Willow.
Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by cylindrical seed capsules about 1–1½" long. Each seed capsule has 5 narrow cells, and each cell contains a row of seeds. The seeds are enclosed in chunky outer coatings (endocarps); they are about 1.0-1.5 mm. in length. The root system is fibrous and fleshy. When the nodes of the stems lie on wet ground, they are capable of developing new fibrous roots, from which new plants are produced vegetatively. Sometimes the root system produces small bladders that keep individual plants more buoyant in the water. This plant often forms large colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet conditions, and muddy soil, although this plant can adapt to shallow water as a floating aquatic. Creeping Water Primrose (Ludwigia peploides glabrescens) can spread aggressively in shallow wetlands and muddy areas. It is potentially invasive.
Range & Habitat: Creeping Water Primrose is locally common and native to southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon and probably adventive in most areas (see Distribution Map). This species is slowly spreading northward. Habitats include borders of ponds, shallow areas of lakes, sluggish streams, swamps, marshes, and ditches. In some of these habitats, Creeping Water Primrose can become the dominant shoreline plant, forming large colonies.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by bees, including honeybees, digger bees (Eucerine), and Halictid bees. Other visitors, such as flies and skippers, are less effective at cross-pollination. These insects obtain nectar and/or pollen from the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on Creeping Water Primrose. This includes the flea beetles, Altica litigata and Lysathia ludoviciana, and a leafhopper, Draeculacephala inscripta. The Mallard and possibly other ducks feed on the seed capsules. Because of the large dense colonies that this plant often forms, it provides good cover along shorelines for various insects, frogs, and other wetland wildlife.
Photographic Location: Muddy shore of a pond in southern Illinois.
Comments: Creeping Water Primrose has showy flowers and attractive foliage. Unfortunately, it is sometimes too aggressive for its own good. It can be distinguished from other Ludwigia spp. by its larger 5-petaled flowers and sprawling semi-aquatic habit. Across its range in the United States and tropical America, different varieties of this species have been described, although only var. glabrescens has been found in Illinois. This variety can be distinguished by its more glabrous foliage. Another scientific name of this wetland plant is Jussiaea repens glabrescens, while an alternative common name is Creeping Primrose Willow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Description: This perennial plant is 1-4' tall. It is erect and usually remains unbranched. The central stem is light to medium green, terete or angular, and glabrous to sparsely hairy. The alternate leaves are up to 5" long and 2" wide; they are oblanceolate, obovate, ovate, or broadly elliptic in shape, and their margins are serrated. The lower leaves clasp the central stem, while the upper leaves are sessile. The upper surfaces of leaves are medium to dark green and sparingly covered with short hairs. The central stem terminates in a spike-like raceme of flowers about ½-2' long.
The flowers are 1-1½" long, angled upward, and densely distributed along the raceme. Each flower has a blue-violet corolla (rarely white) that is narrowly bell-shaped (campanulate) and 2-lipped. The upper lip has 2 slender erect lobes that curve slightly inward or backward, while the lower lip has 3 descending lobes that are oblong-lanceolate. Near the throat of the flower at the base of the lower lobes, there is a pair of small white patches. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear-lanceolate teeth; it is conspicuously hairy. The calyx teeth are long and spreading. The blooming period occurs from late summer into fall, lasting about 2 months. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by capsules containing small seeds. These seeds are probably distributed by wind or water to some extent. The root system consists of a central taproot, fromDistribution Map which occasional basal offshoots are produced.
Cultivation: The preference is wet to moist soil and partial sun. Full sun is tolerated if the soil is consistently moist, and light shade is also acceptable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. This plant withstands occasional flooding, but it will become muddy and ragged-looking if it receives too much abuse. The small seeds require light to germinate. Great Blue Lobelia can be highly variable in height, depending on environmental conditions and its stage of development.
Range & Habitat: The native Great Blue Lobelia occurs throughout Illinois, except for a few counties in southern Illinois. It is occasional to locally common. Typical habitats include moist black soil prairies, soggy meadows near rivers, low areas along rivers and ponds, floodplain and bottomland woodlands, woodland borders, bottoms of sandstone canyons along streams, swamps, fens, gravelly seeps and springs, ditches, and moist areas of pastures. Great Blue Lobelia can be found in both disturbed areas and high quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees and other long-tongued bees (Anthophora spp., Melissodes spp., Svastra spp.). Less common visitors include the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird, large butterflies, and Halictid bees. The Halictid bees collect pollen only and they are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), feed on the foliage of Great Blue Lobelia (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). Most mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because the foliage contains several toxic alkaloids, chief among them being lobeline and lobelanine. These toxic substances produce symptoms that resemble nicotine poisoning. However, it has been reported that deer occasionally eat this plant, perhaps enjoying greater immunity to these toxic substances than other animals. The seeds are too small to be of much value to birds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a garden of the Anita Purves Nature Center in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Great Blue Lobelia is a lovely plant that produces some welcome diversity with its violet-blue flowers during late summer or fall, when forbs with yellow flowers are typically dominant. Unfortunately, its value to wildlife is rather limited. Among the Lobelia spp. with bluish flowers in Illinois, Great Blue Lobelia has the largest flowers and they are usually a more deep shade of blue-violet, making it easy to identify.
The flowers are 1-1½" long, angled upward, and densely distributed along the raceme. Each flower has a blue-violet corolla (rarely white) that is narrowly bell-shaped (campanulate) and 2-lipped. The upper lip has 2 slender erect lobes that curve slightly inward or backward, while the lower lip has 3 descending lobes that are oblong-lanceolate. Near the throat of the flower at the base of the lower lobes, there is a pair of small white patches. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear-lanceolate teeth; it is conspicuously hairy. The calyx teeth are long and spreading. The blooming period occurs from late summer into fall, lasting about 2 months. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by capsules containing small seeds. These seeds are probably distributed by wind or water to some extent. The root system consists of a central taproot, fromDistribution Map which occasional basal offshoots are produced.
Cultivation: The preference is wet to moist soil and partial sun. Full sun is tolerated if the soil is consistently moist, and light shade is also acceptable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. This plant withstands occasional flooding, but it will become muddy and ragged-looking if it receives too much abuse. The small seeds require light to germinate. Great Blue Lobelia can be highly variable in height, depending on environmental conditions and its stage of development.
Range & Habitat: The native Great Blue Lobelia occurs throughout Illinois, except for a few counties in southern Illinois. It is occasional to locally common. Typical habitats include moist black soil prairies, soggy meadows near rivers, low areas along rivers and ponds, floodplain and bottomland woodlands, woodland borders, bottoms of sandstone canyons along streams, swamps, fens, gravelly seeps and springs, ditches, and moist areas of pastures. Great Blue Lobelia can be found in both disturbed areas and high quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees and other long-tongued bees (Anthophora spp., Melissodes spp., Svastra spp.). Less common visitors include the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird, large butterflies, and Halictid bees. The Halictid bees collect pollen only and they are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), feed on the foliage of Great Blue Lobelia (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). Most mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because the foliage contains several toxic alkaloids, chief among them being lobeline and lobelanine. These toxic substances produce symptoms that resemble nicotine poisoning. However, it has been reported that deer occasionally eat this plant, perhaps enjoying greater immunity to these toxic substances than other animals. The seeds are too small to be of much value to birds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a garden of the Anita Purves Nature Center in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Great Blue Lobelia is a lovely plant that produces some welcome diversity with its violet-blue flowers during late summer or fall, when forbs with yellow flowers are typically dominant. Unfortunately, its value to wildlife is rather limited. Among the Lobelia spp. with bluish flowers in Illinois, Great Blue Lobelia has the largest flowers and they are usually a more deep shade of blue-violet, making it easy to identify.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is usually unbranched and 2–3½' tall. The central stem is light green, terete, and sparingly to densely hairy. The alternate leaves are up 6" long and 1½" across, but they are typically about one-half of this maximum size. The rough-textured leaves are lanceolate in shape and coarsely serrated along their margins; they have a tendency to curl upward along their central veins. The lower leaves have short petioles, while the upper ones are sessile. The undersides of leaves usually have fine hairs.
The central stem terminates in a spike-like raceme of showy red flowers (rarely white). This raceme is about ½–1½' long. The red corolla of each flower has a narrow tubular structure that is upright and terminates in grayish white reproductive organs; these organs nod downward. Beneath this are 2 narrow lateral lobes and a lower lip that is 3-lobed. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear teeth that spread outward. The flowers are held at an upward angle in relation to the stem; they are about 1–1½" long and ¾–1" across. The blooming period occurs from late summer to early fall, lasting about 1–1½ months. There is no floral scent. The small seeds can be carried aloft by the wind. The root system consists of a taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and wet to moist conditions. Cardinal Flower adapts to loam, sandy loam, or gravelly soil; the soil should contain some organic matter to retain moisture. This plant doesn't like to dry out and it has a reputation of being temperamental and short-lived. It is easier to establish this plant using transplants, as the seeds are quite small and the young seedlings are rather fragile.
Range & Habitat: The native Cardinal Flower has been observed in most counties of Illinois; it is occasional to locally common in southern Illinois, while in northern and central Illinois it tends to be less common or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include wet prairies, prairie swales, openings in floodplain and bottomland woodlands, soggy meadows along rivers and streams, gravelly seeps and springs, borders of ponds, edges of small marshes, and ditches. These habitats include both sandy and non-sandy areas. Cardinal Flower is often found in sunny areas near sources of water, or it is found in open woodland areas where moist depressions occur.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and various Swallowtail butterflies, including such species as Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail), Papilio troilus (Spicebush Swallowtail), and Battus philenor (Pipevine Swallowtail). Sometimes the larger bumblebees will steal nectar through slits in the tubular corolla. Halictid bees sometimes gather pollen, but they are ineffective at pollination. The larvae of a polyphagous fly, Metopomyza scutellata, mine the leaves of Cardinal Flower. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), also feed on the leaves (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Mammalian herbivores usually don't consume this plant because of the toxic white latex in the foliage. While it's a beautiful plant, the ecological value of Cardinal Flower to wildlife is relatively low.
Photographic Location: Most of the photographs were taken by the webmaster at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois; the plants were growing in a prairie swale. The photograph of a Cardinal Plant with rare white flowers was taken by Paul Showers (Copyright © 2013) in northeast Illinois.
Comments: The Cardinal Flower has striking red flowers that remind me of the Northern Cardinal and other exotic birds. Red is an unusual color in wildflowers – an attribute that it shares with Silene regia (Royal Catchfly) and Silene virginica (Fire Pink). Plants with red flowers typically attract hummingbirds; sometimes they also attract Swallowtail butterflies because their compound eyes, unlike those of bees, can detect the color red. The Cardinal Flower is often sold at garden centers, but such plants are often hybrids or special cultivars. One such hybrid is Lobelia X speciosa, which is a genetic cross of Lobelia cardinalis and Lobelia siphilitica (Great Blue Lobelia). This hybrid can naturalize in the wild, and resembles the former species to a greater extent than the latter. Its flowers are often magenta or deep rose, rather than brilliant red.
The central stem terminates in a spike-like raceme of showy red flowers (rarely white). This raceme is about ½–1½' long. The red corolla of each flower has a narrow tubular structure that is upright and terminates in grayish white reproductive organs; these organs nod downward. Beneath this are 2 narrow lateral lobes and a lower lip that is 3-lobed. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear teeth that spread outward. The flowers are held at an upward angle in relation to the stem; they are about 1–1½" long and ¾–1" across. The blooming period occurs from late summer to early fall, lasting about 1–1½ months. There is no floral scent. The small seeds can be carried aloft by the wind. The root system consists of a taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and wet to moist conditions. Cardinal Flower adapts to loam, sandy loam, or gravelly soil; the soil should contain some organic matter to retain moisture. This plant doesn't like to dry out and it has a reputation of being temperamental and short-lived. It is easier to establish this plant using transplants, as the seeds are quite small and the young seedlings are rather fragile.
Range & Habitat: The native Cardinal Flower has been observed in most counties of Illinois; it is occasional to locally common in southern Illinois, while in northern and central Illinois it tends to be less common or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include wet prairies, prairie swales, openings in floodplain and bottomland woodlands, soggy meadows along rivers and streams, gravelly seeps and springs, borders of ponds, edges of small marshes, and ditches. These habitats include both sandy and non-sandy areas. Cardinal Flower is often found in sunny areas near sources of water, or it is found in open woodland areas where moist depressions occur.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and various Swallowtail butterflies, including such species as Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail), Papilio troilus (Spicebush Swallowtail), and Battus philenor (Pipevine Swallowtail). Sometimes the larger bumblebees will steal nectar through slits in the tubular corolla. Halictid bees sometimes gather pollen, but they are ineffective at pollination. The larvae of a polyphagous fly, Metopomyza scutellata, mine the leaves of Cardinal Flower. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), also feed on the leaves (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Mammalian herbivores usually don't consume this plant because of the toxic white latex in the foliage. While it's a beautiful plant, the ecological value of Cardinal Flower to wildlife is relatively low.
Photographic Location: Most of the photographs were taken by the webmaster at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois; the plants were growing in a prairie swale. The photograph of a Cardinal Plant with rare white flowers was taken by Paul Showers (Copyright © 2013) in northeast Illinois.
Comments: The Cardinal Flower has striking red flowers that remind me of the Northern Cardinal and other exotic birds. Red is an unusual color in wildflowers – an attribute that it shares with Silene regia (Royal Catchfly) and Silene virginica (Fire Pink). Plants with red flowers typically attract hummingbirds; sometimes they also attract Swallowtail butterflies because their compound eyes, unlike those of bees, can detect the color red. The Cardinal Flower is often sold at garden centers, but such plants are often hybrids or special cultivars. One such hybrid is Lobelia X speciosa, which is a genetic cross of Lobelia cardinalis and Lobelia siphilitica (Great Blue Lobelia). This hybrid can naturalize in the wild, and resembles the former species to a greater extent than the latter. Its flowers are often magenta or deep rose, rather than brilliant red.
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成长记
Pommy Mommy
2018年06月20日
I now added "Watermelon (mystery plant FINALLY identified lol)" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable plant that can be a long-lasting, permanent addition to a home garden. This vegetable requires well-draining soil to thrive, as waterlogged soil causes root rot. Growing asparagus in raised beds offers them proper drainage and an easier planting bed that doesn't require deep tilling.
Preparing a Raised Bed
Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth.
Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting.
Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil.
Planting Asparagus
Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting.
Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist.
Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed.
Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons.
Harvesting Asparagus
Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come.
Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
Preparing a Raised Bed
Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth.
Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting.
Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil.
Planting Asparagus
Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting.
Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist.
Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed.
Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons.
Harvesting Asparagus
Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come.
Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Ohio has a mild climate, with U.S. hardiness zones of 5a to 6a. Certain micro-climates exist around the state, so growing seasons vary slightly. Plant seed potatoes in Ohio that mature in the time frame for your climate.
Varieties
Early season varieties good for Ohio include superior and norland, which mature in 90 to 100 days and 80 to 90 days respectively. Planting four weeks before your expected frost date allows early harvesting of these potatoes.
Hardiness Zones
The southern part of Ohio warms up a few weeks earlier than the northern areas. You can plant seed potatoes in Ohio as soon as the soil is dry in your area. Select a time when no rainfall is expected. This generally happens in mid-March for southern Ohio and late April for northern Ohio.
Diseases
Potatoes are not without problems and late blight has affected Ohio when spring weather is extremely wet. Control late blight disease by selecting certified seed potatoes, properly drying the potatoes before planting and waiting until the soil is dry. Northern areas of Ohio still yield an abundant harvest even when delaying planting until mid-June.
Varieties
Early season varieties good for Ohio include superior and norland, which mature in 90 to 100 days and 80 to 90 days respectively. Planting four weeks before your expected frost date allows early harvesting of these potatoes.
Hardiness Zones
The southern part of Ohio warms up a few weeks earlier than the northern areas. You can plant seed potatoes in Ohio as soon as the soil is dry in your area. Select a time when no rainfall is expected. This generally happens in mid-March for southern Ohio and late April for northern Ohio.
Diseases
Potatoes are not without problems and late blight has affected Ohio when spring weather is extremely wet. Control late blight disease by selecting certified seed potatoes, properly drying the potatoes before planting and waiting until the soil is dry. Northern areas of Ohio still yield an abundant harvest even when delaying planting until mid-June.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Determining the best time to plant your vegetable garden in Kentucky involves more than looking at the calendar. To find the best planting date for each crop, you'll have to take into account your location within the state, the particular vegetables you're planting and when you want to harvest them.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月18日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is unbranched and about 3-6' tall. The central stem is smooth and sometimes reddish. The alternate compound leaves are up to 2' long. They are often yellowish green, and become much smaller and sparser while ascending the central stem. Each compound leaf consists of 1-7 palmate leaflets that are aligned along each reddish leaf-stem in succession. Each leaflet is up to 6" long and across and has 2-5 cleft lobes. The margins are coarsely dentate.
The inflorescence occurs on a long naked stalk, consisting of a panicle of pink buds and flowers about 5-8" across. Each flower is about 1/3" across, consisting of 5 pink petals and numerous long white stamens with pink anthers. The overall appearance of the inflorescence resembles wind-tossed fluff or foam, and is quite beautiful. The flowers bloom from the bottom up, and have little or no fragrance. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer, and lasts about 3 weeks. Afterwards, straight reddish fruits develop that are about ¼–½" across. The root system consists of a taproot and rhizomes. Queen-of-the-Prairie tends to form colonies under moist conditions.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and wet to moist conditions. The soil should be high in organic content, and can contain a little sand. The cooler climate of the Great Lakes region is preferred, rather than hot, dry summer heat. Occasionally, the leaves become spotted from foliar disease, otherwise it is not subject to any special problems.
Range & Habitat: The native Queen-of-the-Prairie occurs primarily in scattered counties along the upper basin of the Illinois River and in the Chicago area. It has also been observed in east central Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it has been successfully introduced. This uncommon plant is listed as 'threatened' in Illinois. Habitats include moist black soil prairies, moist sand prairies, moist meadows along rivers in woodland areas, shrubby fens, and wet areas in or around seeps and springs. This is an indicator plant of high quality habitats, although in some areas it has been introduced as part of restoration efforts.
Faunal Associations: The colorful flowers provide pollen as a reward for insect visitors, but not nectar. Various species of bees collect pollen from the flowers and probably are the most important pollinators. Beetles and flies feed on the pollen. Wasps and butterflies may land on the flowers looking for nectar, but their search will be futile. Little is known about the floral-fauna relationships for birds and mammals. The foliage doesn't seem to be bothered by deer and other herbivorous mammals.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a wonderful plant, if only it would bloom longer! In prairies, the pink flowers rise above the surrounding vegetation and can be seen from a considerable distance. It has a very distinctive appearance, and can't be confused with any other native plant. However, the introduced Filipendula ulmaria (Queen-of-the-Meadow) is somewhat similar. This latter species differs from Queen-of-the-Prairie by having white flowers and twisted fruits.
The inflorescence occurs on a long naked stalk, consisting of a panicle of pink buds and flowers about 5-8" across. Each flower is about 1/3" across, consisting of 5 pink petals and numerous long white stamens with pink anthers. The overall appearance of the inflorescence resembles wind-tossed fluff or foam, and is quite beautiful. The flowers bloom from the bottom up, and have little or no fragrance. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer, and lasts about 3 weeks. Afterwards, straight reddish fruits develop that are about ¼–½" across. The root system consists of a taproot and rhizomes. Queen-of-the-Prairie tends to form colonies under moist conditions.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and wet to moist conditions. The soil should be high in organic content, and can contain a little sand. The cooler climate of the Great Lakes region is preferred, rather than hot, dry summer heat. Occasionally, the leaves become spotted from foliar disease, otherwise it is not subject to any special problems.
Range & Habitat: The native Queen-of-the-Prairie occurs primarily in scattered counties along the upper basin of the Illinois River and in the Chicago area. It has also been observed in east central Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it has been successfully introduced. This uncommon plant is listed as 'threatened' in Illinois. Habitats include moist black soil prairies, moist sand prairies, moist meadows along rivers in woodland areas, shrubby fens, and wet areas in or around seeps and springs. This is an indicator plant of high quality habitats, although in some areas it has been introduced as part of restoration efforts.
Faunal Associations: The colorful flowers provide pollen as a reward for insect visitors, but not nectar. Various species of bees collect pollen from the flowers and probably are the most important pollinators. Beetles and flies feed on the pollen. Wasps and butterflies may land on the flowers looking for nectar, but their search will be futile. Little is known about the floral-fauna relationships for birds and mammals. The foliage doesn't seem to be bothered by deer and other herbivorous mammals.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a wonderful plant, if only it would bloom longer! In prairies, the pink flowers rise above the surrounding vegetation and can be seen from a considerable distance. It has a very distinctive appearance, and can't be confused with any other native plant. However, the introduced Filipendula ulmaria (Queen-of-the-Meadow) is somewhat similar. This latter species differs from Queen-of-the-Prairie by having white flowers and twisted fruits.
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