文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月22日
With their glossy emerald leaves and petite shape, China doll plants make for an attractive addition to any indoor home garden collection. Native to the subtropical mountainous areas of Asia, China doll plants are evergreen trees that are a part of the Bignoniaceae family. When cared for indoors, they are moderately fast growers and can reach heights between 4 and 6 feet at maturity.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月13日
Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art form of growing ornamental miniature or artificially dwarfed trees in containers using cultivation techniques to mimic the shape and scale of full-sized trees.
The stunning blossoms and delicate foliage of the cherry tree make it a favorite among bonsai enthusiasts and amateur growers alike.
While cherry trees are technically native to China, their blossoms have become a symbol of Japan and it is generally believed that cherry trees symbolize friendship.
Beyond their alluring appearance, cherry trees lend themselves well to the art of bonsai. They adapt well to pruning and training and are generally low-maintenance specimens.
Botanical Name Prunus Bonsai
Common Name Cherry tree bonsai
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 10-15 inches tall
Sun Exposure Partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, white
Native Area China
Cherry Tree Bonsai Care
Compared to other bonsai specimens, cherry tree bonsai require less light, and they adapt very well to training and shaping. An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to reposition the branches to achieve a desired shape.
Cherry tree bonsai can be wired at any time of the year, although it is best done in the fall or winter months so as to not damage the delicate buds and new growth in the spring or summer months. The wiring should never be left on for more than six months at a time.
Light
Cherry tree bonsai appreciate partial sun and cannot tolerate full sun conditions as the delicate blooms and leaves can be easily burnt. A location that receives dappled morning and evening light, but is protected from the afternoon sun is best.
Soil
When it comes to the soil for cherry tree bonsai, above all else, adequate drainage is of the utmost importance. Using a commercially available bonsai soil is usually best as these potting mixtures are formulated especially for bonsai trees. Cherry tree bonsai appreciate soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Water
Cherry tree bonsai require consistently moist and humid conditions and benefit from being watered with distilled water rather than hard tap water. The soil should be kept evenly moist but never waterlogged. As a general rule, allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
These trees will need to be watered more frequently during the spring and summer months when they are in their active growing period. Never allow a cherry tree bonsai to dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, cherry tree bonsai appreciate warm spring and summer temperatures, humidity, and cool winter temperatures. For that reason, as with most bonsai species, they are best grown outdoors throughout the year.
While they are considered moderately frost-tolerant and can tolerate short periods of freezing conditions, these trees should be protected from intense frost and harsh winter climates.
Fertilizer
Feed your cherry tree bonsai every two weeks throughout the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer. Older trees may require less frequent fertilizing than younger trees that are still developing. In the fall and winter, they will only need to be fertilized once throughout each season.
Pruning
Regular pruning and shaping are extremely important for the health and overall aesthetic of the cherry tree bonsai. Wait until the tree has finished blooming to begin pruning - usually in the summer months.
Pinch back any fresh shoots to shape and encourage branching, and reserve any heavy pruning of main branches or stems for the winter months.
While you want to prune the new growth, be careful that you aren’t removing all of it. Some of the new shoots should always be left to ensure that the tree can continue growing. Keep in mind that heavy pruning may cause the following year’s bloom to suffer.
Potting and Repotting
Cherry tree bonsai should be repotted every two years, although older trees can be repotted every three to five years. Repotting is best done in the spring months before the tree has bloomed.
When choosing a new pot for your cherry tree bonsai, there are several things to consider. Bonsai pots are designed to complement the appearance of the tree, provide adequate drainage, restrict root growth, and they even have wiring holes to aid in wiring the branches.
Keep in mind that, according to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design.
After you have repotted a cherry tree bonsai, ensure that it is kept in a partially sheltered location until the tree has become established. Freshly repotted cherry tree bonsai are especially susceptible to over-exposure.
Varieties of Cherry Trees for Bonsai
There are many different varieties of cherry trees that can be used for bonsai, although the most famous variety that is most associated with the stunning cherry blossoms of Japan is the Prunus serrulata (commonly called sakura). Other popular varieties include:
Prunus x yedoensis (Yoshino cherry)
Prunus ‘Kanzan’
Common Pests/Diseases
Healthy cherry tree bonsai are not susceptible to many common pests or diseases. However, keep an eye out for aphids and caterpillars, which may travel to the tree from other plants in your garden. Although they are rare, watch for diseases such as peach leaf curl, blossom wilt, and taphrina wiesneri.
The stunning blossoms and delicate foliage of the cherry tree make it a favorite among bonsai enthusiasts and amateur growers alike.
While cherry trees are technically native to China, their blossoms have become a symbol of Japan and it is generally believed that cherry trees symbolize friendship.
Beyond their alluring appearance, cherry trees lend themselves well to the art of bonsai. They adapt well to pruning and training and are generally low-maintenance specimens.
Botanical Name Prunus Bonsai
Common Name Cherry tree bonsai
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 10-15 inches tall
Sun Exposure Partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, white
Native Area China
Cherry Tree Bonsai Care
Compared to other bonsai specimens, cherry tree bonsai require less light, and they adapt very well to training and shaping. An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to reposition the branches to achieve a desired shape.
Cherry tree bonsai can be wired at any time of the year, although it is best done in the fall or winter months so as to not damage the delicate buds and new growth in the spring or summer months. The wiring should never be left on for more than six months at a time.
Light
Cherry tree bonsai appreciate partial sun and cannot tolerate full sun conditions as the delicate blooms and leaves can be easily burnt. A location that receives dappled morning and evening light, but is protected from the afternoon sun is best.
Soil
When it comes to the soil for cherry tree bonsai, above all else, adequate drainage is of the utmost importance. Using a commercially available bonsai soil is usually best as these potting mixtures are formulated especially for bonsai trees. Cherry tree bonsai appreciate soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
Water
Cherry tree bonsai require consistently moist and humid conditions and benefit from being watered with distilled water rather than hard tap water. The soil should be kept evenly moist but never waterlogged. As a general rule, allow the top inch of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
These trees will need to be watered more frequently during the spring and summer months when they are in their active growing period. Never allow a cherry tree bonsai to dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, cherry tree bonsai appreciate warm spring and summer temperatures, humidity, and cool winter temperatures. For that reason, as with most bonsai species, they are best grown outdoors throughout the year.
While they are considered moderately frost-tolerant and can tolerate short periods of freezing conditions, these trees should be protected from intense frost and harsh winter climates.
Fertilizer
Feed your cherry tree bonsai every two weeks throughout the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer. Older trees may require less frequent fertilizing than younger trees that are still developing. In the fall and winter, they will only need to be fertilized once throughout each season.
Pruning
Regular pruning and shaping are extremely important for the health and overall aesthetic of the cherry tree bonsai. Wait until the tree has finished blooming to begin pruning - usually in the summer months.
Pinch back any fresh shoots to shape and encourage branching, and reserve any heavy pruning of main branches or stems for the winter months.
While you want to prune the new growth, be careful that you aren’t removing all of it. Some of the new shoots should always be left to ensure that the tree can continue growing. Keep in mind that heavy pruning may cause the following year’s bloom to suffer.
Potting and Repotting
Cherry tree bonsai should be repotted every two years, although older trees can be repotted every three to five years. Repotting is best done in the spring months before the tree has bloomed.
When choosing a new pot for your cherry tree bonsai, there are several things to consider. Bonsai pots are designed to complement the appearance of the tree, provide adequate drainage, restrict root growth, and they even have wiring holes to aid in wiring the branches.
Keep in mind that, according to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design.
After you have repotted a cherry tree bonsai, ensure that it is kept in a partially sheltered location until the tree has become established. Freshly repotted cherry tree bonsai are especially susceptible to over-exposure.
Varieties of Cherry Trees for Bonsai
There are many different varieties of cherry trees that can be used for bonsai, although the most famous variety that is most associated with the stunning cherry blossoms of Japan is the Prunus serrulata (commonly called sakura). Other popular varieties include:
Prunus x yedoensis (Yoshino cherry)
Prunus ‘Kanzan’
Common Pests/Diseases
Healthy cherry tree bonsai are not susceptible to many common pests or diseases. However, keep an eye out for aphids and caterpillars, which may travel to the tree from other plants in your garden. Although they are rare, watch for diseases such as peach leaf curl, blossom wilt, and taphrina wiesneri.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月14日
Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art form of growing ornamental miniature or artificially dwarfed trees in containers using cultivation techniques to mimic the shape and scale of full-sized trees.
Pine trees are among the most common types of trees used for bonsai worldwide, although they are usually enjoyed by bonsai enthusiasts as they are not a great beginner option. Since pines grow in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, pine bonsai can be shaped into nearly every known bonsai style successfully. Several different species of pine can be successfully used for bonsai cultivation.
9 Popular Types of Bonsai Trees
Botanical Name Pinus Bonsai
Common Name Bonsai pine
Plant Type Evergreen, coniferous tree
Mature Size 60-80 inches (or desired)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Does not flower
Flower Color Does not flower
Native Area North America, China, South-East Asia, Russia, Europe
Pine Bonsai Care
Pine bonsais are often considered to be a more advanced type of bonsai that are not ideal for beginners. They are one of the most difficult types of bonsai to understand, style, and prune since factors such as individual climate can greatly affect the requirements of the tree.
An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to bend and reposition the branches to achieve the desired shape.
Wiring also promotes energy distribution throughout the tree. Avoid doing too much wiring at one time with pine bonsais so as to not damage the tree. Wiring is best done in the winter months from early autumn to early spring.
Light
For best growth, pine bonsai trees require full sun for several hours each day. The more light the tree receives, the shorter and more compact the needles will be. Leggy, elongated needles on a pine bonsai are indicative of the tree needing more sunlight.
Soil
As with most bonsai species, pine bonsai require well-draining potting mediums. Commercially available bonsai soils/mixes are usually best. These contain a mixture of akadama (clay granulate mined in Japan), pumice, organic potting compost, and fine gravel/grit. Pine bonsais appreciate a soil pH between 5.5-6.5.
Water
Pine bonsai trees prefer to be kept consistently moist, but they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Pine bonsai are not suitable for growing indoors and should be grown outside year-round. Pines are hardy, frost-tolerant trees, although, when planted in containers, they should be placed in a sheltered location so they are protected from the worst of the winter weather.
As with most bonsai, pine bonsai appreciate moisture and can benefit from regular misting if your climate is not naturally humid.
Fertilizer
Healthy pine bonsai trees require regular fertilization to achieve the best growth and appearance. Fertilize a pine bonsai from early spring to late autumn with an organic bonsai fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich.
Varieties of Pine for Bonsai
The Pinus genus is extensive with over 100 different species. The following are some of the most popular for bonsai cultivation:
Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine)
Pinus mugo (Mountain pine)
Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine)
Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine)
Pruning
Proper pruning is essential to the aesthetic and health of a bonsai tree. It is necessary to begin shaping pine bonsai from an early age to establish a strong branch structure.
In general, pine tree species are apically dominant in terms of their growth habit - meaning that they grow vigorously at the top and outer reaches of the tree. A poorly pruned pine bonsai will become top-heavy at the expense of the lower branches, and it will also establish fuller growth around the outer edges of the branches - which is unsuitable for the aesthetic of bonsai.
In the spring and summer, elongated candles should be shortened and excess old needles should be plucked from any areas with dense growth. Reserve any heavy pruning of the main branches for the fall months to avoid excess sap loss in the spring and summer.
Potting and Repotting
Regular repotting is not a requirement for pine bonsai. Depending on the age of the tree, pine bonsai usually only require repotting every 2-5 years. This will be to refresh the soil and root prune to prevent the tree from becoming root-bound. Repotting pine bonsai is best done in the early spring, just after the buds begin to swell.
When choosing a new pot for your bonsai tree, there are several things to take into consideration. According to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design. Color is another important factor in choosing a bonsai pot, and the general rule is that the color of the pot should appear somewhere in the tree. The overall goal is to create harmony between the tree and its pot.
Whether you decide to follow the traditional rules of bonsai or not, bonsai trees can technically be grown in many different containers. Keep in mind that the pot should offer adequate drainage, and the size and depth of the pot relative to the tree are important in controlling its size.
Common Pests/Diseases
Unfortunately, pine bonsai species are susceptible to a number of common pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, scale, and caterpillars, along with common diseases such as root rot (usually due to overwatering or lack of proper drainage), as well as fungal diseases.
Pine trees are among the most common types of trees used for bonsai worldwide, although they are usually enjoyed by bonsai enthusiasts as they are not a great beginner option. Since pines grow in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, pine bonsai can be shaped into nearly every known bonsai style successfully. Several different species of pine can be successfully used for bonsai cultivation.
9 Popular Types of Bonsai Trees
Botanical Name Pinus Bonsai
Common Name Bonsai pine
Plant Type Evergreen, coniferous tree
Mature Size 60-80 inches (or desired)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil
Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5
Bloom Time Does not flower
Flower Color Does not flower
Native Area North America, China, South-East Asia, Russia, Europe
Pine Bonsai Care
Pine bonsais are often considered to be a more advanced type of bonsai that are not ideal for beginners. They are one of the most difficult types of bonsai to understand, style, and prune since factors such as individual climate can greatly affect the requirements of the tree.
An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to bend and reposition the branches to achieve the desired shape.
Wiring also promotes energy distribution throughout the tree. Avoid doing too much wiring at one time with pine bonsais so as to not damage the tree. Wiring is best done in the winter months from early autumn to early spring.
Light
For best growth, pine bonsai trees require full sun for several hours each day. The more light the tree receives, the shorter and more compact the needles will be. Leggy, elongated needles on a pine bonsai are indicative of the tree needing more sunlight.
Soil
As with most bonsai species, pine bonsai require well-draining potting mediums. Commercially available bonsai soils/mixes are usually best. These contain a mixture of akadama (clay granulate mined in Japan), pumice, organic potting compost, and fine gravel/grit. Pine bonsais appreciate a soil pH between 5.5-6.5.
Water
Pine bonsai trees prefer to be kept consistently moist, but they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Pine bonsai are not suitable for growing indoors and should be grown outside year-round. Pines are hardy, frost-tolerant trees, although, when planted in containers, they should be placed in a sheltered location so they are protected from the worst of the winter weather.
As with most bonsai, pine bonsai appreciate moisture and can benefit from regular misting if your climate is not naturally humid.
Fertilizer
Healthy pine bonsai trees require regular fertilization to achieve the best growth and appearance. Fertilize a pine bonsai from early spring to late autumn with an organic bonsai fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich.
Varieties of Pine for Bonsai
The Pinus genus is extensive with over 100 different species. The following are some of the most popular for bonsai cultivation:
Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine)
Pinus mugo (Mountain pine)
Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine)
Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine)
Pruning
Proper pruning is essential to the aesthetic and health of a bonsai tree. It is necessary to begin shaping pine bonsai from an early age to establish a strong branch structure.
In general, pine tree species are apically dominant in terms of their growth habit - meaning that they grow vigorously at the top and outer reaches of the tree. A poorly pruned pine bonsai will become top-heavy at the expense of the lower branches, and it will also establish fuller growth around the outer edges of the branches - which is unsuitable for the aesthetic of bonsai.
In the spring and summer, elongated candles should be shortened and excess old needles should be plucked from any areas with dense growth. Reserve any heavy pruning of the main branches for the fall months to avoid excess sap loss in the spring and summer.
Potting and Repotting
Regular repotting is not a requirement for pine bonsai. Depending on the age of the tree, pine bonsai usually only require repotting every 2-5 years. This will be to refresh the soil and root prune to prevent the tree from becoming root-bound. Repotting pine bonsai is best done in the early spring, just after the buds begin to swell.
When choosing a new pot for your bonsai tree, there are several things to take into consideration. According to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design. Color is another important factor in choosing a bonsai pot, and the general rule is that the color of the pot should appear somewhere in the tree. The overall goal is to create harmony between the tree and its pot.
Whether you decide to follow the traditional rules of bonsai or not, bonsai trees can technically be grown in many different containers. Keep in mind that the pot should offer adequate drainage, and the size and depth of the pot relative to the tree are important in controlling its size.
Common Pests/Diseases
Unfortunately, pine bonsai species are susceptible to a number of common pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, scale, and caterpillars, along with common diseases such as root rot (usually due to overwatering or lack of proper drainage), as well as fungal diseases.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月02日
The 'Bloodgood' cultivar of Japanese maple is an ideal tree for smaller yards. Most people use them as specimen trees, although they are also used in bonsai. They bloom in spring, and this is when the red in their foliage is often at its brightest. The color darkens in summer to burgundy, or even darker. Although the leaves can become even showier in autumn than in summer, the foliage is attractive for a full three seasons of the year.
The leaves of this Japanese maple forms a rounded canopy in an attractive branching pattern: Rather than having a single leader, the plant will often have multiple sub-trunks. Many liken the leaf shape to that on a marijuana plant. The palmatum in the Latin name is also descriptive of the leaf. As on the human hand, where fingers radiate out from the palm, "palmate" foliage bears lobes that fan out from a central point.
In late spring, this tree develops double-winged samaras that redden as they mature and add some ornamental value to the plant. This common tree may reach a height of 20 feet (with a similar spread) at maturity but is a slow grower.
Botanical Name Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood'
Common Name 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 15 to 20 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Chalk, clay, loam, sand
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color n/a
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Japan, Asia
How to Grow 'Bloodgood' Japanese Maple Trees
If you plant this tree in the fall, it will benefit from new root growth that occurs during the dormant season: Roots of maples continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter months if temperatures are not below freezing. Also, planting in the fall allows the carbohydrates that are produced during the summer to be directed to root growth, since there is little demand from the top of the tree (which stops growing in late fall and winter). Alternatively, you can plant your Japanese maple in spring; just be careful not to disturb any parts of the plant that have broken bud and are producing new, soft growth.
Mulch is key to growing your maple. Mulch shields the roots from summer heat and winter cold and ensures that the roots retain moisture. You also might want to stake the tree to prevent wind from rocking it back and forth as the new roots are becoming established. Just be sure to remove the stake after the first year, or at least change the tie if it's cutting into the bark of the tree.
Light
Dappled shade is considered the ideal exposure in most regions for this tree, but a bit more shade won't harm it. In fact, in hot climates, a somewhat shady location can help prevent leaf scorch. The leaves tend to develop some green in them in summer if exposed to full sun.
Soil
The soil should drain well and not be too clayey. Apply a loose mulch, such as wood chips or pine needles, over the soil at the beginning of the summer to help retain moisture. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk of the tree. Re-mulch every year at around the same time.
Water
Water the leaves and branches of this tree semi-regularly, but only water the roots and soil when the weather has been hot and dry for an extended stretch. If the soil gets too saturated, it can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant your Japanese maple where it will be protected from strong winds (which can dry out the soil quickly), and avoid hot and arid sites. Extreme heat can lead to distress; keep the tree's soil mulched and adequately watered during hot weather to minimize damage.
Fertilizer
Don't try to force this tree to grow faster by fertilizing it more than is necessary. In spring, before leaves emerge, add a small amount of organic slow-release fertilizer to the soil. Then fertilize the tree annually, around the same time you add the mulch (early summer).
Varieties of Japanese Maples
Red is the most common color for Japanese maples, although there are also various choices in other colors.
Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum' (Golden Full Moon): Produces lime-to-chartreuse-tinged golden leaves; in fall, leaves turn orange and red
Acer palmatum 'Beni-kawa': Leaves emerge in spring as rich green with slight red edges, then turn deeper green in summer before turning yellow and shedding in fall
Acer palmatum 'Harriet Waldman': Grows to 15 feet tall (same growing conditions as for Bloodgood); new leaves start out pink but eventually turn three colors: pink, white, and green (pink and white fade as the tree ages, leaving green leaves)
Pruning
You can prune young plants to encourage a particular branching pattern. As the tree matures, pruning can be limited to standard maintenance tasks, such as removing dead branches, suckers, or branches.
Common Pests and Diseases
These trees are relatively immune to diseases and pests. However, insects such as aphids, scale, borers, and root weevils can be a problem, as can mites. Root rot and Verticillium wilt can strike if the tree is grown in wet, cold soil. Allowing the soil to dry out between watering sessions is a good way to prevent these diseases.
The leaves of this Japanese maple forms a rounded canopy in an attractive branching pattern: Rather than having a single leader, the plant will often have multiple sub-trunks. Many liken the leaf shape to that on a marijuana plant. The palmatum in the Latin name is also descriptive of the leaf. As on the human hand, where fingers radiate out from the palm, "palmate" foliage bears lobes that fan out from a central point.
In late spring, this tree develops double-winged samaras that redden as they mature and add some ornamental value to the plant. This common tree may reach a height of 20 feet (with a similar spread) at maturity but is a slow grower.
Botanical Name Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood'
Common Name 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 15 to 20 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Chalk, clay, loam, sand
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color n/a
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Japan, Asia
How to Grow 'Bloodgood' Japanese Maple Trees
If you plant this tree in the fall, it will benefit from new root growth that occurs during the dormant season: Roots of maples continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter months if temperatures are not below freezing. Also, planting in the fall allows the carbohydrates that are produced during the summer to be directed to root growth, since there is little demand from the top of the tree (which stops growing in late fall and winter). Alternatively, you can plant your Japanese maple in spring; just be careful not to disturb any parts of the plant that have broken bud and are producing new, soft growth.
Mulch is key to growing your maple. Mulch shields the roots from summer heat and winter cold and ensures that the roots retain moisture. You also might want to stake the tree to prevent wind from rocking it back and forth as the new roots are becoming established. Just be sure to remove the stake after the first year, or at least change the tie if it's cutting into the bark of the tree.
Light
Dappled shade is considered the ideal exposure in most regions for this tree, but a bit more shade won't harm it. In fact, in hot climates, a somewhat shady location can help prevent leaf scorch. The leaves tend to develop some green in them in summer if exposed to full sun.
Soil
The soil should drain well and not be too clayey. Apply a loose mulch, such as wood chips or pine needles, over the soil at the beginning of the summer to help retain moisture. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk of the tree. Re-mulch every year at around the same time.
Water
Water the leaves and branches of this tree semi-regularly, but only water the roots and soil when the weather has been hot and dry for an extended stretch. If the soil gets too saturated, it can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant your Japanese maple where it will be protected from strong winds (which can dry out the soil quickly), and avoid hot and arid sites. Extreme heat can lead to distress; keep the tree's soil mulched and adequately watered during hot weather to minimize damage.
Fertilizer
Don't try to force this tree to grow faster by fertilizing it more than is necessary. In spring, before leaves emerge, add a small amount of organic slow-release fertilizer to the soil. Then fertilize the tree annually, around the same time you add the mulch (early summer).
Varieties of Japanese Maples
Red is the most common color for Japanese maples, although there are also various choices in other colors.
Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum' (Golden Full Moon): Produces lime-to-chartreuse-tinged golden leaves; in fall, leaves turn orange and red
Acer palmatum 'Beni-kawa': Leaves emerge in spring as rich green with slight red edges, then turn deeper green in summer before turning yellow and shedding in fall
Acer palmatum 'Harriet Waldman': Grows to 15 feet tall (same growing conditions as for Bloodgood); new leaves start out pink but eventually turn three colors: pink, white, and green (pink and white fade as the tree ages, leaving green leaves)
Pruning
You can prune young plants to encourage a particular branching pattern. As the tree matures, pruning can be limited to standard maintenance tasks, such as removing dead branches, suckers, or branches.
Common Pests and Diseases
These trees are relatively immune to diseases and pests. However, insects such as aphids, scale, borers, and root weevils can be a problem, as can mites. Root rot and Verticillium wilt can strike if the tree is grown in wet, cold soil. Allowing the soil to dry out between watering sessions is a good way to prevent these diseases.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月26日
There are dozens of species and varieties of banana and plantain trees (Musa spp.). While these tropical fruiting plants are commonly referred to as trees, they’re technically huge herbaceous plants, meaning they don’t have a woody stem. Instead, they have fleshy, upright stalks from which large, oblong, bright green leaves grow. Showy flowers appear typically in the spring, giving way to the fleshy, elongated, green or yellow fruit.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月08日
Growing avocados outdoors as productive fruit trees can be tricky, but growing them as houseplants is fun and easy, resulting in a seedling that will eventually turn into an attractive little specimen with glossy, oval leaves 4 to 8 inches long. True, it's unlikely your tree will ever bear fruit (unless you give it about 10 years), and even if it does, the fruit from the offspring most likely won't resemble the original. But as an indoor plant, an avocado has plenty of merit as a decorative novelty. Keep in mind that all parts of the avocado plant are toxic to animals.1
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月04日
Clusia is a large genus of trees and shrubs native to tropical America characterized by their branches, which grow horizontally, and their leaves, which are thick and tough. There are about 150 Clusia species, but Clusia rosea, or the autograph tree, is the only one commonly grown. It is notable for its tendency to grow on top of other plants (often strangling them). It is widely considered to be an invasive species. Another unusual quality, this species is part of the only genus of plants capable of absorbing carbon dioxide at night.1
The autograph tree has stiff, dark green or olive-colored leathery leaves that grow to about 8 inches long. The leaves are tough enough that they can be carved into, hence the common name “autograph tree.” It has long flower heads with pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, followed by small green fruits that ripen to black and eventually split open to reveal bright red seeds. The seeds are very attractive to birds and other fauna. The autograph tree is commonly grown as an indoor plant. Where it is able to survive outdoors—in zones 10 and 11—it can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Clusia rosea
Common Name Autograph tree, copey, balsam apple, pitch apple
Plant Type Perennial evergreen
Mature Size 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (can reach 25 feet tall as a tree)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sand, clay, loam; well-draining
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White or pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11
Native Area Caribbean
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
Autograph Tree Care
The autograph tree tends to spread out fairly wide as it grows. It should be pruned about once a year, in early spring, to keep it nicely formed. Fertilization will help it grow fully. The plant makes an excellent hedge because of its dense growth habit and its minimal maintenance needs. Alternatively, if you grow it tall as a tree, you can underplant things close to its base. The autograph tree is salt-tolerant and can be grown in exposed positions near the ocean.
Grown as a houseplant, the autograph tree needs warmth, humidity, and a moderate amount of sunlight daily. A room with a south- or west-facing window is ideal for giving it a few hours of bright sun plus some indirect light and some shade.
Light
Full sun is best, but this plant can tolerate partial shade as well. When it is grown indoors as a houseplant, it will cope with medium light levels and some degree of shade.
Soil
A sandy, soft, loose, well-draining soil is best. It should be fertile and rich in organic matter. When growing in pots, blend the potting mix with a small amount of growing medium for orchids.
Water
The autograph tree should be watered regularly for the first year or so until the plant is fully established. You can scale back its water after that, although regular watering will help it grow more fully. This species is fairly drought-tolerant, but you should never let the soil get completely dry. Autograph tree houseplants typically need water once a week in summer and three times per month in winter.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant can be kept outside only in tropical areas, as will not tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, it prefers temperatures between 60 and 85. It also prefers high humidity. If you have an indoor container plant, you can place it on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist regularly.
Fertilizer
Fertilize three times per year in the spring, summer, and fall. Use organic, granular fertilizer. Or, you can fertilize more frequently but must use an evenly balanced diluted liquid fertilizer.
Potting and Repotting
Due to its quick growth, C. rosea can often overgrow its container. To repot, lift out the root ball as a whole and move to a larger container that can accommodate the root system. As the plant matures, it may become too large to be kept in containers at all unless it is well-pruned. If the climate is suitable, large plants can be replanted outdoors.
Propagating the Autograph Tree
C. rosea is a hemiepiphyte. It begins its life as an epiphyte—a plant that grows on another tree or structure without being parasitic—and grows toward the ground until it eventually plants itself in the soil. Over time, it overgrows and eventually suffocates its host. This growth pattern is what has made the autograph tree a dangerous invasive species in several tropical areas.
The tree can propagate fairly easily by seed or by cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, simply sever the stems and replant in the warm, wet soil to allow them to root. This is a fast-growing and hardy plant that is quite easy to propagate, especially in containers.
The autograph tree has stiff, dark green or olive-colored leathery leaves that grow to about 8 inches long. The leaves are tough enough that they can be carved into, hence the common name “autograph tree.” It has long flower heads with pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, followed by small green fruits that ripen to black and eventually split open to reveal bright red seeds. The seeds are very attractive to birds and other fauna. The autograph tree is commonly grown as an indoor plant. Where it is able to survive outdoors—in zones 10 and 11—it can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Clusia rosea
Common Name Autograph tree, copey, balsam apple, pitch apple
Plant Type Perennial evergreen
Mature Size 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (can reach 25 feet tall as a tree)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sand, clay, loam; well-draining
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White or pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11
Native Area Caribbean
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
Autograph Tree Care
The autograph tree tends to spread out fairly wide as it grows. It should be pruned about once a year, in early spring, to keep it nicely formed. Fertilization will help it grow fully. The plant makes an excellent hedge because of its dense growth habit and its minimal maintenance needs. Alternatively, if you grow it tall as a tree, you can underplant things close to its base. The autograph tree is salt-tolerant and can be grown in exposed positions near the ocean.
Grown as a houseplant, the autograph tree needs warmth, humidity, and a moderate amount of sunlight daily. A room with a south- or west-facing window is ideal for giving it a few hours of bright sun plus some indirect light and some shade.
Light
Full sun is best, but this plant can tolerate partial shade as well. When it is grown indoors as a houseplant, it will cope with medium light levels and some degree of shade.
Soil
A sandy, soft, loose, well-draining soil is best. It should be fertile and rich in organic matter. When growing in pots, blend the potting mix with a small amount of growing medium for orchids.
Water
The autograph tree should be watered regularly for the first year or so until the plant is fully established. You can scale back its water after that, although regular watering will help it grow more fully. This species is fairly drought-tolerant, but you should never let the soil get completely dry. Autograph tree houseplants typically need water once a week in summer and three times per month in winter.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant can be kept outside only in tropical areas, as will not tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, it prefers temperatures between 60 and 85. It also prefers high humidity. If you have an indoor container plant, you can place it on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist regularly.
Fertilizer
Fertilize three times per year in the spring, summer, and fall. Use organic, granular fertilizer. Or, you can fertilize more frequently but must use an evenly balanced diluted liquid fertilizer.
Potting and Repotting
Due to its quick growth, C. rosea can often overgrow its container. To repot, lift out the root ball as a whole and move to a larger container that can accommodate the root system. As the plant matures, it may become too large to be kept in containers at all unless it is well-pruned. If the climate is suitable, large plants can be replanted outdoors.
Propagating the Autograph Tree
C. rosea is a hemiepiphyte. It begins its life as an epiphyte—a plant that grows on another tree or structure without being parasitic—and grows toward the ground until it eventually plants itself in the soil. Over time, it overgrows and eventually suffocates its host. This growth pattern is what has made the autograph tree a dangerous invasive species in several tropical areas.
The tree can propagate fairly easily by seed or by cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, simply sever the stems and replant in the warm, wet soil to allow them to root. This is a fast-growing and hardy plant that is quite easy to propagate, especially in containers.
0
0
文章
莹723
2021年02月18日
The rubber tree is a great starter plant for anyone who's not known for having a green thumb. These trees have glossy, leathery leaves and an attractive upright form, which makes a nice addition to any room with sufficient light. In the jungles of India and Malaysia, this plant can grow up to 100 feet tall. But indoors, a rubber tree typically tops out at 6 to 10 feet tall.
They’re fast growers with the right conditions and can last 15 years or more with proper care. Like the snake plant and spider plant, which are also low-maintenance plants, rubber trees look good with little effort from you!
Here's what else you need to know about this old favorite.
1.What kinds of rubber trees can I grow?
Rubber tree, also known by its scientific name 'Ficus elastica' is available in many different varieties. ‘Decora’ has the classic dark green leaves with white ribs. ‘Doescheri’ is a pretty variegated variety. ‘Rubra’ has pretty burgundy leaves. But no matter which one you choose, they all need similar care.
2.Where can I buy a rubber tree?
Because it’s an old favorite, you’ll find rubber trees at most nurseries, big box stores, and online retailers. If shopping in person, don't buy plants without lower leaves, which drop off if it’s been overwatered or otherwise stressed. Also, choose one that is glossy and upright, not falling over. They're relatively inexpensive compared to other houseplants of similar size, such as the fiddleleaf fig or the ficus tree, also called weeping fig.
3.Rubber trees need bright light.
Rubber trees like bright light, although they can adjust to lower light levels. They don’t like sudden drops in temperature, so don’t put them too close to drafty windows. If your room seems dark, get a grow light to provide overhead light so the plant can grow upright. Otherwise, they tend to get leggy as they stretch toward the light.
It's not necessary but if you decide to put them outdoors in the summer, keep them out of direct sunlight. Bring them indoors again before a frost. In USDA Hardiness zones 10 and 11 (find your zone here), you can leave your plants outdoors unless freezing weather is forecast.
4.It's easy to care for your rubber tree.
The great news is that rubber trees don't need a lot of fussing over. Water your rubber tree when the soil is slightly dry to the touch. Watering too often may cause leaf yellowing. Dump out the saucer beneath the pot so there's no standing water. If you like, feed your rubber tree with a general-purpose fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 strength a few times a year, especially during active growth in spring and summer. Or not! It's really not necessary but certainly won't hurt.
5.Is rubber tree safe around pets?
The sticky sap may irritate a pet's skin or tummy, so it’s best to keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. To keep your rubber tree clean and shiny, dust the broad leaves with a damp rag occasionally. Rubber trees rarely are affected by bugs or diseases, so they’re the perfect plant for you to sit back and enjoy without a lot of fussing.
They’re fast growers with the right conditions and can last 15 years or more with proper care. Like the snake plant and spider plant, which are also low-maintenance plants, rubber trees look good with little effort from you!
Here's what else you need to know about this old favorite.
1.What kinds of rubber trees can I grow?
Rubber tree, also known by its scientific name 'Ficus elastica' is available in many different varieties. ‘Decora’ has the classic dark green leaves with white ribs. ‘Doescheri’ is a pretty variegated variety. ‘Rubra’ has pretty burgundy leaves. But no matter which one you choose, they all need similar care.
2.Where can I buy a rubber tree?
Because it’s an old favorite, you’ll find rubber trees at most nurseries, big box stores, and online retailers. If shopping in person, don't buy plants without lower leaves, which drop off if it’s been overwatered or otherwise stressed. Also, choose one that is glossy and upright, not falling over. They're relatively inexpensive compared to other houseplants of similar size, such as the fiddleleaf fig or the ficus tree, also called weeping fig.
3.Rubber trees need bright light.
Rubber trees like bright light, although they can adjust to lower light levels. They don’t like sudden drops in temperature, so don’t put them too close to drafty windows. If your room seems dark, get a grow light to provide overhead light so the plant can grow upright. Otherwise, they tend to get leggy as they stretch toward the light.
It's not necessary but if you decide to put them outdoors in the summer, keep them out of direct sunlight. Bring them indoors again before a frost. In USDA Hardiness zones 10 and 11 (find your zone here), you can leave your plants outdoors unless freezing weather is forecast.
4.It's easy to care for your rubber tree.
The great news is that rubber trees don't need a lot of fussing over. Water your rubber tree when the soil is slightly dry to the touch. Watering too often may cause leaf yellowing. Dump out the saucer beneath the pot so there's no standing water. If you like, feed your rubber tree with a general-purpose fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 strength a few times a year, especially during active growth in spring and summer. Or not! It's really not necessary but certainly won't hurt.
5.Is rubber tree safe around pets?
The sticky sap may irritate a pet's skin or tummy, so it’s best to keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. To keep your rubber tree clean and shiny, dust the broad leaves with a damp rag occasionally. Rubber trees rarely are affected by bugs or diseases, so they’re the perfect plant for you to sit back and enjoy without a lot of fussing.
0
0
文章
莹723
2020年10月26日
Most gardens contain a mix of different plants, including perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees. Understanding the different types means you’ll understand how they grow, helping you to care for them correctly and ensure that it looks good all year round.
1.Annuals
Annuals complete their entire life cycle – growing from seed, flowering, making more seed, then dying – in one year (their name comes from the Latin ‘annus’, meaning ‘year’). They produce two types of bright, showy flowers in summer.
（Pink zinnias）
Hardy annuals can withstand the cold, so you can sow them outdoors in spring – March or April are the usual times but they can also be sown in September. They include cornflowers, love-in-a mist and nasturtiums.
Half-hardy annuals cannot survive the cold, so they are generally sown indoors in spring and planted out in May or June. They include cosmos and zinnias.
2.Biennials
Biennials take two years to complete their life cycle – they are sown in one year and flower and die in the next (their name comes from the Latin word, ‘biennis’, which means ‘two years’. They often flower in late spring, before annuals and perennials get going. The most common biennial in our gardens is the foxglove.
（Magenta and pink foxglove flowers）
3.Perennials
Perennials live for three years or more – their name comes the Latin, ‘perennis’, which means ‘many years’. They are sometimes referred to ‘herbaceous perennials’. They can flower for several months in summer. There are two types:
（Tall, pink-red lupins）
Hardy perennials can survive the winter and are left in the ground all year round. Don’t be alarmed when they seem to ‘disappear’ in winter – it’s a survival mechanism to get through the cold weather. Their foliage dies back but the rootstock remains dormant underground. New shoots then appear in spring. Popular perennials include lupins, delphiniums, cranesbills, hostas and peonies.
Half-hardy perennials cannot cope with the cold and so must be brought indoors in winter. It’s best to grow this type of plant in a pot, so that you can move it around easily. Alternatively, you could plant fresh plants every year. Half hardy perennials include many fuchsias and heliotrope.
4.Shrubs
Shrubs, such as roses and lavender, have a woody branches and no trunk. They lose their leaves in winter), evergreen (they keep their leaves year-round) or semi-evergreen (they keep their leaves in mild winters). Shrubs add structure and can last for many years, offering flowers, attractive foliage, colourful autumn leaves or berries. Evergreen types can be used as topiary, clipped into attractive shapes.
（Pale-apricot rose ‘Grace’）
5.Trees
Trees have a trunk and are larger than shrubs. They can be deciduous or evergreen. However small your garden, you can squeeze in a tree – it will change beautifully throughout the year and also acts as a high-rise home for wildlife.
（silver birch tree）
6.Climbers
Climbers grow upwards, and need support in the form of a trellis, arch, fence or wall. Popular climbers include clematis, honeysuckle, wisteria and jasmine. They take up very little room so are especially useful in small gardens. Use them around seating areas – over a pergola, for example – and to cover walls and fences.
（Lilac wisteria flowers）
7.Bulbs
Bulbs are underground storage organs and there are several different kinds – true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. They are planted in autumn or spring for spring or summer flowers. They include a wide range of popular garden plants including daffodils (pictured), tulips, bluebells, crocus, irises and dahlias.
（Daffodils）
8.Bedding plants
Bedding plants are planted temporarily in flower beds or borders, pots or window boxes, giving a display of flowers for a few months. Bedding plants are often half-hardy annuals or tender perennials, but can also be bulbs or shrubs. Popular bedding plants include pelargoniums (geraniums), begonias, petunias and pansies.
（Purple and yellow pansies）
Like our articles? Let us know in the comments！
1.Annuals
Annuals complete their entire life cycle – growing from seed, flowering, making more seed, then dying – in one year (their name comes from the Latin ‘annus’, meaning ‘year’). They produce two types of bright, showy flowers in summer.
（Pink zinnias）
Hardy annuals can withstand the cold, so you can sow them outdoors in spring – March or April are the usual times but they can also be sown in September. They include cornflowers, love-in-a mist and nasturtiums.
Half-hardy annuals cannot survive the cold, so they are generally sown indoors in spring and planted out in May or June. They include cosmos and zinnias.
2.Biennials
Biennials take two years to complete their life cycle – they are sown in one year and flower and die in the next (their name comes from the Latin word, ‘biennis’, which means ‘two years’. They often flower in late spring, before annuals and perennials get going. The most common biennial in our gardens is the foxglove.
（Magenta and pink foxglove flowers）
3.Perennials
Perennials live for three years or more – their name comes the Latin, ‘perennis’, which means ‘many years’. They are sometimes referred to ‘herbaceous perennials’. They can flower for several months in summer. There are two types:
（Tall, pink-red lupins）
Hardy perennials can survive the winter and are left in the ground all year round. Don’t be alarmed when they seem to ‘disappear’ in winter – it’s a survival mechanism to get through the cold weather. Their foliage dies back but the rootstock remains dormant underground. New shoots then appear in spring. Popular perennials include lupins, delphiniums, cranesbills, hostas and peonies.
Half-hardy perennials cannot cope with the cold and so must be brought indoors in winter. It’s best to grow this type of plant in a pot, so that you can move it around easily. Alternatively, you could plant fresh plants every year. Half hardy perennials include many fuchsias and heliotrope.
4.Shrubs
Shrubs, such as roses and lavender, have a woody branches and no trunk. They lose their leaves in winter), evergreen (they keep their leaves year-round) or semi-evergreen (they keep their leaves in mild winters). Shrubs add structure and can last for many years, offering flowers, attractive foliage, colourful autumn leaves or berries. Evergreen types can be used as topiary, clipped into attractive shapes.
（Pale-apricot rose ‘Grace’）
5.Trees
Trees have a trunk and are larger than shrubs. They can be deciduous or evergreen. However small your garden, you can squeeze in a tree – it will change beautifully throughout the year and also acts as a high-rise home for wildlife.
（silver birch tree）
6.Climbers
Climbers grow upwards, and need support in the form of a trellis, arch, fence or wall. Popular climbers include clematis, honeysuckle, wisteria and jasmine. They take up very little room so are especially useful in small gardens. Use them around seating areas – over a pergola, for example – and to cover walls and fences.
（Lilac wisteria flowers）
7.Bulbs
Bulbs are underground storage organs and there are several different kinds – true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. They are planted in autumn or spring for spring or summer flowers. They include a wide range of popular garden plants including daffodils (pictured), tulips, bluebells, crocus, irises and dahlias.
（Daffodils）
8.Bedding plants
Bedding plants are planted temporarily in flower beds or borders, pots or window boxes, giving a display of flowers for a few months. Bedding plants are often half-hardy annuals or tender perennials, but can also be bulbs or shrubs. Popular bedding plants include pelargoniums (geraniums), begonias, petunias and pansies.
（Purple and yellow pansies）
Like our articles? Let us know in the comments！
0
0
文章
ritau
2020年08月19日
A mango is a juicy stone fruit (drupe) produced from numerous species of tropical trees belonging to the flowering plant genus Mangifera, cultivated mostly for their edible fruit. Most of these species are found in nature as wild mangoes. The genus belongs to the cashew family Anacardiaceae. Mangoes are native to South Asia, from where the "common mango" or "Indian mango", Mangifera indica, has been distributed worldwide to become one of the most widely cultivated fruits in the tropics. Other Mangifera species (e.g. horse mango, Mangifera foetida) are grown on a more localized basis.
Worldwide, there are several hundred cultivars of mango. Depending on the cultivar, mango fruit varies in size, shape, sweetness, skin color, and flesh color which may be pale yellow, gold, or orange. Mango is the national fruit of India, Haiti, and the Philippines, and the national tree of Bangladesh. It is the summer national fruit of Pakistan.
The English word "mango" (plural "mangoes" or "mangos") originated from the Tamil word manga (or mangga) during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Mango trees grow to 35–40 m (115–131 ft) tall, with a crown radius of 10 m (33 ft). The trees are long-lived, as some specimens still fruit after 300 years. In deep soil, the taproot descends to a depth of 6 m (20 ft), with profuse, wide-spreading feeder roots and anchor roots penetrating deeply into the soil. The leaves are evergreen, alternate, simple, 15–35 cm (5.9–13.8 in) long, and 6–16 cm (2.4–6.3 in) broad; when the leaves are young they are orange-pink, rapidly changing to a dark, glossy red, then dark green as they mature. The flowers are produced in terminal panicles 10–40 cm (3.9–15.7 in) long; each flower is small and white with five petals 5–10 mm (0.20–0.39 in) long, with a mild, sweet fragrance. Over 500 varieties of mangoes are known, many of which ripen in summer, while some give a double crop. The fruit takes four to five months from flowering to ripen.
The ripe fruit varies according to cultivar in size, shape, color, sweetness, and eating quality. Depending on cultivar, fruits are variously yellow, orange, red, or green. The fruit has a single flat, oblong pit that can be fibrous or hairy on the surface, and does not separate easily from the pulp. The fruits may be somewhat round, oval, or kidney-shaped, ranging from 5–25 centimetres (2–10 in) in length and from 140 grams (5 oz) to 2 kilograms (5 lb) in weight per individual fruit. The skin is leather-like, waxy, smooth, and fragrant, with color ranging from green to yellow, yellow-orange, yellow-red, or blushed with various shades of red, purple, pink or yellow when fully ripe.
Ripe intact mangoes give off a distinctive resinous, sweet smell. Inside the pit 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in) thick is a thin lining covering a single seed, 4–7 cm (1.6–2.8 in) long. Mangoes have recalcitrant seeds which do not survive freezing and drying. Mango trees grow readily from seeds, with germination success highest when seeds are obtained from mature fruits.
Mangoes are generally sweet, although the taste and texture of the flesh varies across cultivars; some, such as Alphonso, have a soft, pulpy, juicy texture similar to an overripe plum, while others, such as Tommy Atkins, are firmer, like a cantaloupe or avocado, with a fibrous texture.
The skin of unripe, pickled, or cooked mango can be eaten, but it has the potential to cause contact dermatitis of the lips, gingiva, or tongue in susceptible people.
Mangoes are widely used in cuisine. Sour, unripe mangoes are used in chutneys, pickles, dhals and other side dishes in Bengali cuisine, or may be eaten raw with salt, chili, or soy sauce. A summer drink called aam panna comes from mangoes. Mango pulp made into jelly or cooked with red gram dhal and green chillies may be served with cooked rice. Mango lassi is popular throughout South Asia, prepared by mixing ripe mangoes or mango pulp with buttermilk and sugar. Ripe mangoes are also used to make curries. Aamras is a popular thick juice made of mangoes with sugar or milk, and is consumed with chapatis or pooris. The pulp from ripe mangoes is also used to make jam called mangada. Andhra aavakaaya is a pickle made from raw, unripe, pulpy, and sour mango, mixed with chili powder, fenugreek seeds, mustard powder, salt, and groundnut oil. Mango is also used in Andhra Pradesh to make dahl preparations. Gujaratis use mango to make chunda (a spicy, grated mango delicacy).
Mangoes are used to make murabba (fruit preserves), muramba (a sweet, grated mango delicacy), amchur (dried and powdered unripe mango), and pickles, including a spicy mustard-oil pickle and alcohol. Ripe mangoes are often cut into thin layers, desiccated, folded, and then cut. These bars are similar to dried guava fruit bars available in some countries. The fruit is also added to cereal products such as muesli and oat granola. Mangoes are often prepared charred in Hawaii.
Unripe mango may be eaten with bagoong (especially in the Philippines), fish sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, or with dash of salt (plain or spicy). Dried strips of sweet, ripe mango (sometimes combined with seedless tamarind to form mangorind) are also popular. Mangoes may be used to make juices, mango nectar, and as a flavoring and major ingredient in ice cream and sorbetes.
Mango is used to make juices, smoothies, ice cream, fruit bars, raspados, aguas frescas, pies, and sweet chili sauce, or mixed with chamoy, a sweet and spicy chili paste. It is popular on a stick dipped in hot chili powder and salt or as a main ingredient in fresh fruit combinations. In Central America, mango is either eaten green mixed with salt, vinegar, black pepper, and hot sauce, or ripe in various forms.
Pieces of mango can be mashed and used as a topping on ice cream or blended with milk and ice as milkshakes. Sweet glutinous rice is flavored with coconut, then served with sliced mango as a dessert. In other parts of Southeast Asia, mangoes are pickled with fish sauce and rice vinegar. Green mangoes can be used in mango salad with fish sauce and dried shrimp. Mango with condensed milk may be used as a topping for shaved ice.
The energy value per 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of the common mango is 250 kJ (60 kcal), and that of the apple mango is slightly higher (330 kJ (79 kcal) per 100 g). Fresh mango contains a variety of nutrients (right table), but only vitamin C and folate are in significant amounts of the Daily Value as 44% and 11%, respectively.
The mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. It is also the national tree of Bangladesh. In India, harvest and sale of mangoes is during March–May and this is annually covered by news agencies.
The mango has a traditional context in the culture of South Asia. In his edicts, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka references the planting of fruit- and shade-bearing trees along imperial roads:
"On the roads banyan-trees were caused to be planted by me, (in order that) they might afford shade to cattle and men, (and) mango-groves were caused to be planted."
In medieval India, the Indo-Persian poet Amir Khusrow termed the mango "Naghza Tarin Mewa Hindustan" – "the fairest fruit of Hindustan". Mangoes were enjoyed at the court of the Delhi Sultan Alauddin Khijli, and the Mughal Empire was especially fond of the fruits: Babur praises the mango in his Babarnameh, while Sher Shah Suri inaugurated the creation of the Chaunsa variety after his victory over the Mughal emperor Humayun. Mughal patronage to horticulture led to the grafting of thousands of mangoes varieties, including the famous Totapuri, which was the first variety to be exported to Iran and Central Asia. Akbar (1556–1605) is said to have planted a mango orchard of 100,000 trees at Lakhi Bagh in Darbhanga, Bihar,while Jahangir and Shah Jahan ordered the planting of mango-orchards in Lahore and Delhi and the creation of mango-based desserts.
The Jain goddess Ambika is traditionally represented as sitting under a mango tree. Mango blossoms are also used in the worship of the goddess Saraswati. Mango leaves are used to decorate archways and doors in Indian houses and during weddings and celebrations such as Ganesh Chaturthi. Mango motifs and paisleys are widely used in different Indian embroidery styles, and are found in Kashmiri shawls, Kanchipuram and silk sarees. In Tamil Nadu, the mango is referred to as one of the three royal fruits, along with banana and jackfruit, for their sweetness and flavor.This triad of fruits is referred to as ma-pala-vazhai. The classical Sanskrit poet Kālidāsa sang the praises of mangoes.
Mangoes were popularized in China during the Cultural Revolution as symbols of Chairman Mao Zedong's love for the people.
Worldwide, there are several hundred cultivars of mango. Depending on the cultivar, mango fruit varies in size, shape, sweetness, skin color, and flesh color which may be pale yellow, gold, or orange. Mango is the national fruit of India, Haiti, and the Philippines, and the national tree of Bangladesh. It is the summer national fruit of Pakistan.
The English word "mango" (plural "mangoes" or "mangos") originated from the Tamil word manga (or mangga) during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Mango trees grow to 35–40 m (115–131 ft) tall, with a crown radius of 10 m (33 ft). The trees are long-lived, as some specimens still fruit after 300 years. In deep soil, the taproot descends to a depth of 6 m (20 ft), with profuse, wide-spreading feeder roots and anchor roots penetrating deeply into the soil. The leaves are evergreen, alternate, simple, 15–35 cm (5.9–13.8 in) long, and 6–16 cm (2.4–6.3 in) broad; when the leaves are young they are orange-pink, rapidly changing to a dark, glossy red, then dark green as they mature. The flowers are produced in terminal panicles 10–40 cm (3.9–15.7 in) long; each flower is small and white with five petals 5–10 mm (0.20–0.39 in) long, with a mild, sweet fragrance. Over 500 varieties of mangoes are known, many of which ripen in summer, while some give a double crop. The fruit takes four to five months from flowering to ripen.
The ripe fruit varies according to cultivar in size, shape, color, sweetness, and eating quality. Depending on cultivar, fruits are variously yellow, orange, red, or green. The fruit has a single flat, oblong pit that can be fibrous or hairy on the surface, and does not separate easily from the pulp. The fruits may be somewhat round, oval, or kidney-shaped, ranging from 5–25 centimetres (2–10 in) in length and from 140 grams (5 oz) to 2 kilograms (5 lb) in weight per individual fruit. The skin is leather-like, waxy, smooth, and fragrant, with color ranging from green to yellow, yellow-orange, yellow-red, or blushed with various shades of red, purple, pink or yellow when fully ripe.
Ripe intact mangoes give off a distinctive resinous, sweet smell. Inside the pit 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in) thick is a thin lining covering a single seed, 4–7 cm (1.6–2.8 in) long. Mangoes have recalcitrant seeds which do not survive freezing and drying. Mango trees grow readily from seeds, with germination success highest when seeds are obtained from mature fruits.
Mangoes are generally sweet, although the taste and texture of the flesh varies across cultivars; some, such as Alphonso, have a soft, pulpy, juicy texture similar to an overripe plum, while others, such as Tommy Atkins, are firmer, like a cantaloupe or avocado, with a fibrous texture.
The skin of unripe, pickled, or cooked mango can be eaten, but it has the potential to cause contact dermatitis of the lips, gingiva, or tongue in susceptible people.
Mangoes are widely used in cuisine. Sour, unripe mangoes are used in chutneys, pickles, dhals and other side dishes in Bengali cuisine, or may be eaten raw with salt, chili, or soy sauce. A summer drink called aam panna comes from mangoes. Mango pulp made into jelly or cooked with red gram dhal and green chillies may be served with cooked rice. Mango lassi is popular throughout South Asia, prepared by mixing ripe mangoes or mango pulp with buttermilk and sugar. Ripe mangoes are also used to make curries. Aamras is a popular thick juice made of mangoes with sugar or milk, and is consumed with chapatis or pooris. The pulp from ripe mangoes is also used to make jam called mangada. Andhra aavakaaya is a pickle made from raw, unripe, pulpy, and sour mango, mixed with chili powder, fenugreek seeds, mustard powder, salt, and groundnut oil. Mango is also used in Andhra Pradesh to make dahl preparations. Gujaratis use mango to make chunda (a spicy, grated mango delicacy).
Mangoes are used to make murabba (fruit preserves), muramba (a sweet, grated mango delicacy), amchur (dried and powdered unripe mango), and pickles, including a spicy mustard-oil pickle and alcohol. Ripe mangoes are often cut into thin layers, desiccated, folded, and then cut. These bars are similar to dried guava fruit bars available in some countries. The fruit is also added to cereal products such as muesli and oat granola. Mangoes are often prepared charred in Hawaii.
Unripe mango may be eaten with bagoong (especially in the Philippines), fish sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, or with dash of salt (plain or spicy). Dried strips of sweet, ripe mango (sometimes combined with seedless tamarind to form mangorind) are also popular. Mangoes may be used to make juices, mango nectar, and as a flavoring and major ingredient in ice cream and sorbetes.
Mango is used to make juices, smoothies, ice cream, fruit bars, raspados, aguas frescas, pies, and sweet chili sauce, or mixed with chamoy, a sweet and spicy chili paste. It is popular on a stick dipped in hot chili powder and salt or as a main ingredient in fresh fruit combinations. In Central America, mango is either eaten green mixed with salt, vinegar, black pepper, and hot sauce, or ripe in various forms.
Pieces of mango can be mashed and used as a topping on ice cream or blended with milk and ice as milkshakes. Sweet glutinous rice is flavored with coconut, then served with sliced mango as a dessert. In other parts of Southeast Asia, mangoes are pickled with fish sauce and rice vinegar. Green mangoes can be used in mango salad with fish sauce and dried shrimp. Mango with condensed milk may be used as a topping for shaved ice.
The energy value per 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of the common mango is 250 kJ (60 kcal), and that of the apple mango is slightly higher (330 kJ (79 kcal) per 100 g). Fresh mango contains a variety of nutrients (right table), but only vitamin C and folate are in significant amounts of the Daily Value as 44% and 11%, respectively.
The mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. It is also the national tree of Bangladesh. In India, harvest and sale of mangoes is during March–May and this is annually covered by news agencies.
The mango has a traditional context in the culture of South Asia. In his edicts, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka references the planting of fruit- and shade-bearing trees along imperial roads:
"On the roads banyan-trees were caused to be planted by me, (in order that) they might afford shade to cattle and men, (and) mango-groves were caused to be planted."
In medieval India, the Indo-Persian poet Amir Khusrow termed the mango "Naghza Tarin Mewa Hindustan" – "the fairest fruit of Hindustan". Mangoes were enjoyed at the court of the Delhi Sultan Alauddin Khijli, and the Mughal Empire was especially fond of the fruits: Babur praises the mango in his Babarnameh, while Sher Shah Suri inaugurated the creation of the Chaunsa variety after his victory over the Mughal emperor Humayun. Mughal patronage to horticulture led to the grafting of thousands of mangoes varieties, including the famous Totapuri, which was the first variety to be exported to Iran and Central Asia. Akbar (1556–1605) is said to have planted a mango orchard of 100,000 trees at Lakhi Bagh in Darbhanga, Bihar,while Jahangir and Shah Jahan ordered the planting of mango-orchards in Lahore and Delhi and the creation of mango-based desserts.
The Jain goddess Ambika is traditionally represented as sitting under a mango tree. Mango blossoms are also used in the worship of the goddess Saraswati. Mango leaves are used to decorate archways and doors in Indian houses and during weddings and celebrations such as Ganesh Chaturthi. Mango motifs and paisleys are widely used in different Indian embroidery styles, and are found in Kashmiri shawls, Kanchipuram and silk sarees. In Tamil Nadu, the mango is referred to as one of the three royal fruits, along with banana and jackfruit, for their sweetness and flavor.This triad of fruits is referred to as ma-pala-vazhai. The classical Sanskrit poet Kālidāsa sang the praises of mangoes.
Mangoes were popularized in China during the Cultural Revolution as symbols of Chairman Mao Zedong's love for the people.
0
0
文章
ritau
2020年06月07日
Mealybugs are insects in the family Pseudococcidae, unarmored scale insects found in moist, warm habitats. Many species are considered pests by some humans as they feed on plant juices of greenhouse plants, house plants and subtropical trees and also act as a vector for several plant diseases. Some Ants, however live in symbiotic relationships with them.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
0
0
文章
ritau
2020年03月11日
Arbor Day (or Arbour in some countries) is a holiday in which individuals and groups are encouraged to plant trees. Today, many countries observe such a holiday. Though usually observed in the spring, the date varies, depending on climate and suitable planting season.
*First Arbor Day in the world
The Spanish village of Mondoñedo held the first documented arbor plantation festival in the world organized by its mayor in 1594. The place remains as Alameda de los Remedios and it is still planted with lime and horse-chestnut trees. A humble granite marker and a bronze plate recall the event. Additionally, the small Spanish village of Villanueva de la Sierra held the first modern Arbor Day, an initiative launched in 1805 by the local priest with the enthusiastic support of the entire population.
*First American Arbor Day
The first American Arbor Day was originated in Nebraska City, Nebraska by J. Sterling Morton. On April 10, 1872, an estimated one million trees were planted in Nebraska.
Birdsey Northrop of Connecticut was responsible for globalizing the idea when he visited Japan in 1883 and delivered his Arbor Day and Village Improvement message. In that same year, the American Forestry Association made Northrop the Chairman of the committee to campaign for Arbor Day nationwide. He also brought his enthusiasm for Arbor Day to Australia, Canada, and Europe.
*McCreight and Theodore Roosevelt
Beginning in 1906, Pennsylvania conservationist Major Israel McCreight of DuBois, Pennsylvania, argued that President Theodore Roosevelt’s conservation speeches were limited to businessmen in the lumber industry and recommended a campaign of youth education and a national policy on conservation education. McCreight urged Roosevelt to make a public statement to school children about trees and the destruction of American forests. Conservationist Gifford Pinchot, Chief of the United States Forest Service, embraced McCreight’s recommendations and asked the President to speak to the public school children of the United States about conservation. On April 15, 1907, Roosevelt issued an "Arbor Day Proclamation to the School Children of the United States" about the importance of trees and that forestry deserves to be taught in U.S. schools. Pinchot wrote McCreight, "we shall all be indebted to you for having made the suggestion."
*First Arbor Day in the world
The Spanish village of Mondoñedo held the first documented arbor plantation festival in the world organized by its mayor in 1594. The place remains as Alameda de los Remedios and it is still planted with lime and horse-chestnut trees. A humble granite marker and a bronze plate recall the event. Additionally, the small Spanish village of Villanueva de la Sierra held the first modern Arbor Day, an initiative launched in 1805 by the local priest with the enthusiastic support of the entire population.
*First American Arbor Day
The first American Arbor Day was originated in Nebraska City, Nebraska by J. Sterling Morton. On April 10, 1872, an estimated one million trees were planted in Nebraska.
Birdsey Northrop of Connecticut was responsible for globalizing the idea when he visited Japan in 1883 and delivered his Arbor Day and Village Improvement message. In that same year, the American Forestry Association made Northrop the Chairman of the committee to campaign for Arbor Day nationwide. He also brought his enthusiasm for Arbor Day to Australia, Canada, and Europe.
*McCreight and Theodore Roosevelt
Beginning in 1906, Pennsylvania conservationist Major Israel McCreight of DuBois, Pennsylvania, argued that President Theodore Roosevelt’s conservation speeches were limited to businessmen in the lumber industry and recommended a campaign of youth education and a national policy on conservation education. McCreight urged Roosevelt to make a public statement to school children about trees and the destruction of American forests. Conservationist Gifford Pinchot, Chief of the United States Forest Service, embraced McCreight’s recommendations and asked the President to speak to the public school children of the United States about conservation. On April 15, 1907, Roosevelt issued an "Arbor Day Proclamation to the School Children of the United States" about the importance of trees and that forestry deserves to be taught in U.S. schools. Pinchot wrote McCreight, "we shall all be indebted to you for having made the suggestion."
0
0
文章
ritau
2020年03月03日
Hydrangea is a genus of 70–75 species of flowering plants native to Asia and the Americas. By far the greatest species diversity is in eastern Asia, notably Korea, China, and Japan. Most are shrubs 1 to 3 meters tall, but some are small trees, and others lianas reaching up to 30 m (98 ft) by climbing up trees. They can be either deciduous or evergreen, though the widely cultivated temperate species are all deciduous.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
0
0
文章
ritau
2020年02月13日
A cherry blossom is a flower of many trees of genus Prunus. The most well-known species is the Japanese cherry, Prunus serrulata, which is commonly called sakura (桜 or 櫻; さくら).
They are widely distributed, especially in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere including Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Mainland China, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Myanmar, Thailand and West Siberia.Along with the chrysanthemum, the cherry blossom is considered the national flower of Japan.
All varieties of cherry blossom trees produce small, unpalatable fruit or edible cherries. Edible cherries generally come from cultivars of the related species Prunus avium and Prunus cerasus.
In Japan, cherry blossoms symbolize clouds due to their nature of blooming en masse, besides being an enduring metaphor for the ephemeral nature of life, an aspect of Japanese cultural tradition that is often associated with Buddhist influence, and which is embodied in the concept of mono no aware.The association of the cherry blossom with mono no aware dates back to 18th-century scholar Motoori Norinaga. The transience of the blossoms, the exquisite beauty and volatility, has often been associated with mortality and graceful and readily acceptance of destiny and karma; for this reason, cherry blossoms are richly symbolic, and have been utilized often in Japanese art, manga, anime, and film, as well as at musical performances for ambient effect. There is at least one popular folk song, originally meant for the shakuhachi (bamboo flute), titled "Sakura", and several pop songs. The flower is also represented on all manner of consumer goods in Japan, including kimono, stationery, and dishware.
The most popular variety of cherry blossom in Japan is the Somei Yoshino. Its flowers are nearly pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem. They bloom and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. Therefore, the trees look nearly white from top to bottom. The variety takes its name from the village of Somei (now part of Toshima in Tokyo). It was developed in the mid- to late-19th century at the end of the Edo period and the beginning of the Meiji period. The Somei Yoshino is so widely associated with cherry blossoms that jidaigeki and other works of fiction often depict the variety in the Edo period or earlier; such depictions are anachronisms.
Winter sakura or fuyuzakura (Prunus subhirtella autumnalis) begins to bloom in the fall and continues blooming sporadically throughout the winter. It is said to be a cross between edohiganzakura, the Tokyo Higan cherry (P. incisa) and mamezakura (P. pendula).
Other categories include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals. The shidarezakura, or weeping cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
They are widely distributed, especially in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere including Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Mainland China, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Myanmar, Thailand and West Siberia.Along with the chrysanthemum, the cherry blossom is considered the national flower of Japan.
All varieties of cherry blossom trees produce small, unpalatable fruit or edible cherries. Edible cherries generally come from cultivars of the related species Prunus avium and Prunus cerasus.
In Japan, cherry blossoms symbolize clouds due to their nature of blooming en masse, besides being an enduring metaphor for the ephemeral nature of life, an aspect of Japanese cultural tradition that is often associated with Buddhist influence, and which is embodied in the concept of mono no aware.The association of the cherry blossom with mono no aware dates back to 18th-century scholar Motoori Norinaga. The transience of the blossoms, the exquisite beauty and volatility, has often been associated with mortality and graceful and readily acceptance of destiny and karma; for this reason, cherry blossoms are richly symbolic, and have been utilized often in Japanese art, manga, anime, and film, as well as at musical performances for ambient effect. There is at least one popular folk song, originally meant for the shakuhachi (bamboo flute), titled "Sakura", and several pop songs. The flower is also represented on all manner of consumer goods in Japan, including kimono, stationery, and dishware.
The most popular variety of cherry blossom in Japan is the Somei Yoshino. Its flowers are nearly pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem. They bloom and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. Therefore, the trees look nearly white from top to bottom. The variety takes its name from the village of Somei (now part of Toshima in Tokyo). It was developed in the mid- to late-19th century at the end of the Edo period and the beginning of the Meiji period. The Somei Yoshino is so widely associated with cherry blossoms that jidaigeki and other works of fiction often depict the variety in the Edo period or earlier; such depictions are anachronisms.
Winter sakura or fuyuzakura (Prunus subhirtella autumnalis) begins to bloom in the fall and continues blooming sporadically throughout the winter. It is said to be a cross between edohiganzakura, the Tokyo Higan cherry (P. incisa) and mamezakura (P. pendula).
Other categories include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals. The shidarezakura, or weeping cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
0
0
