文章
ritau
2020年01月20日
Bonsai is a Japanese art form using cultivation techniques to produce, in containers, small trees that mimic the shape and scale of full size trees. Similar practices exist in other cultures, including the Chinese tradition of penzai or penjing from which the art originated, and the miniature living landscapes of Vietnamese Hòn Non Bộ. The Japanese tradition dates back over a thousand years.
The Japanese loanword "bonsai" has become an umbrella term in English, attached to many forms of potted or other plants, and also on occasion to other living and non-living things. According to Stephen Orr in The New York Times, "the term should be reserved for plants that are grown in shallow containers following the precise tenets of bonsai pruning and training, resulting in an artful miniature replica of a full-grown tree in nature." In the most restrictive sense, "bonsai" refers to miniaturized, container-grown trees adhering to Japanese tradition and principles.
Purposes of bonsai are primarily contemplation for the viewer, and the pleasant exercise of effort and ingenuity for the grower. By contrast with other plant cultivation practices, bonsai is not intended for production of food or for medicine. Instead, bonsai practice focuses on long-term cultivation and shaping of one or more small trees growing in a container.
A bonsai is created beginning with a specimen of source material. This may be a cutting, seedling, or small tree of a species suitable for bonsai development. Bonsai can be created from nearly any perennial woody-stemmed tree or shrub species that produces true branches and can be cultivated to remain small through pot confinement with crown and root pruning. Some species are popular as bonsai material because they have characteristics, such as small leaves or needles, that make them appropriate for the compact visual scope of bonsai.
The source specimen is shaped to be relatively small and to meet the aesthetic standards of bonsai. When the candidate bonsai nears its planned final size it is planted in a display pot, usually one designed for bonsai display in one of a few accepted shapes and proportions. From that point forward, its growth is restricted by the pot environment. Throughout the year, the bonsai is shaped to limit growth, redistribute foliar vigor to areas requiring further development, and meet the artist's detailed design.
The practice of bonsai is sometimes confused with dwarfing, but dwarfing generally refers to research, discovery, or creation of plants that are permanent, genetic miniatures of existing species. Plant dwarfing often uses selective breeding or genetic engineering to create dwarf cultivars. Bonsai does not require genetically dwarfed trees, but rather depends on growing small trees from regular stock and seeds. Bonsai uses cultivation techniques like pruning, root reduction, potting, defoliation, and grafting to produce small trees that mimic the shape and style of mature, full-size trees.
The Japanese loanword "bonsai" has become an umbrella term in English, attached to many forms of potted or other plants, and also on occasion to other living and non-living things. According to Stephen Orr in The New York Times, "the term should be reserved for plants that are grown in shallow containers following the precise tenets of bonsai pruning and training, resulting in an artful miniature replica of a full-grown tree in nature." In the most restrictive sense, "bonsai" refers to miniaturized, container-grown trees adhering to Japanese tradition and principles.
Purposes of bonsai are primarily contemplation for the viewer, and the pleasant exercise of effort and ingenuity for the grower. By contrast with other plant cultivation practices, bonsai is not intended for production of food or for medicine. Instead, bonsai practice focuses on long-term cultivation and shaping of one or more small trees growing in a container.
A bonsai is created beginning with a specimen of source material. This may be a cutting, seedling, or small tree of a species suitable for bonsai development. Bonsai can be created from nearly any perennial woody-stemmed tree or shrub species that produces true branches and can be cultivated to remain small through pot confinement with crown and root pruning. Some species are popular as bonsai material because they have characteristics, such as small leaves or needles, that make them appropriate for the compact visual scope of bonsai.
The source specimen is shaped to be relatively small and to meet the aesthetic standards of bonsai. When the candidate bonsai nears its planned final size it is planted in a display pot, usually one designed for bonsai display in one of a few accepted shapes and proportions. From that point forward, its growth is restricted by the pot environment. Throughout the year, the bonsai is shaped to limit growth, redistribute foliar vigor to areas requiring further development, and meet the artist's detailed design.
The practice of bonsai is sometimes confused with dwarfing, but dwarfing generally refers to research, discovery, or creation of plants that are permanent, genetic miniatures of existing species. Plant dwarfing often uses selective breeding or genetic engineering to create dwarf cultivars. Bonsai does not require genetically dwarfed trees, but rather depends on growing small trees from regular stock and seeds. Bonsai uses cultivation techniques like pruning, root reduction, potting, defoliation, and grafting to produce small trees that mimic the shape and style of mature, full-size trees.
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文章
ritau
2020年01月17日
Hi everybody, today I'm going to introduce 6 ideas for balcony gardening, come and try!
1. Sunny Side
This balcony garden is sunny and bright! Citrus trees love the sun, making a sunny balcony the ideal location for growing your own fruit. This creative balcony garden proves you do not need matching pots to be a stunning area. The plants are offered protection from the sun by the white umbrella secured to the balcony railing. From the collection of play toys to the red and white striped fabric shade, this is also a space to share with a child. The addition of the hanging light over the café table allows this balcony to be used even at night!
2. Tiny Park
Is a tiny yard and garden on your balcony possible? When creating a balcony garden design you can have both! Using AstroTurf on your balcony floor, you are able to create a yard in the city or on your apartment balcony. Colorful, yet edible kale is showcased in wooden crates. Hanging garden boxes provide additional growing space on the balcony railing in this design. With the predominantly green landscape, the pop of fuchsia color from the flower is a nice addition. Even the tiny herbs have a home in the small terra cotta pots lining the side of this balcony!
3. Modern Comfort
Modern meets comfort in this beautiful balcony garden decor. Elements of home design have been carried through to this balcony. When combining home design with the outdoors, it’s important to bring home décor to the space. With the pillow, blanket, and serving tray this balcony garden has done just that! Aside from the wicker chair, this space doesn’t feature typical outdoor furniture. A stool is used as a plant display and a rope covered ottoman keeps the home décor feel alive. Keeping with the theme, the rug breaks up the modern gray on this balcony adding yet another visual element of comfort.
4. The Secret Garden
Sometimes you need a retreat you can escape to. This serene balcony garden is reminiscent of a secret Victorian garden with the ivy growing along the stone wall. Including a stone angel statue further confirms the feel. Growing trees in pots is a great way to add vertical elements. This design also incorporates stacking pots for added height. In this balcony garden design, rosemary is in bloom creating a delightful smell as well as adding a touch of purple color. The modest café table ensures a nice place to sit for coffee, tea, or simply a place to rest.
5. Italian Flair
Inspired by an Italian window garden, this colorful balcony proves you can make a dramatic impact in a small space. Although there isn’t enough room for a table or chairs, this beautiful display of showy petunias is a showstopper. Window boxes are hung on the outside of the balcony where they can easily be seen from below. This design incorporates smaller pots on the inside of the balcony floor to grow greenery. By adding the greenery, a nice backdrop is provided for the petunias creating a seamless flow. Even the wall behind the balcony was used to display the beautiful flowers.
Source:HOMEBNC
1. Sunny Side
This balcony garden is sunny and bright! Citrus trees love the sun, making a sunny balcony the ideal location for growing your own fruit. This creative balcony garden proves you do not need matching pots to be a stunning area. The plants are offered protection from the sun by the white umbrella secured to the balcony railing. From the collection of play toys to the red and white striped fabric shade, this is also a space to share with a child. The addition of the hanging light over the café table allows this balcony to be used even at night!
2. Tiny Park
Is a tiny yard and garden on your balcony possible? When creating a balcony garden design you can have both! Using AstroTurf on your balcony floor, you are able to create a yard in the city or on your apartment balcony. Colorful, yet edible kale is showcased in wooden crates. Hanging garden boxes provide additional growing space on the balcony railing in this design. With the predominantly green landscape, the pop of fuchsia color from the flower is a nice addition. Even the tiny herbs have a home in the small terra cotta pots lining the side of this balcony!
3. Modern Comfort
Modern meets comfort in this beautiful balcony garden decor. Elements of home design have been carried through to this balcony. When combining home design with the outdoors, it’s important to bring home décor to the space. With the pillow, blanket, and serving tray this balcony garden has done just that! Aside from the wicker chair, this space doesn’t feature typical outdoor furniture. A stool is used as a plant display and a rope covered ottoman keeps the home décor feel alive. Keeping with the theme, the rug breaks up the modern gray on this balcony adding yet another visual element of comfort.
4. The Secret Garden
Sometimes you need a retreat you can escape to. This serene balcony garden is reminiscent of a secret Victorian garden with the ivy growing along the stone wall. Including a stone angel statue further confirms the feel. Growing trees in pots is a great way to add vertical elements. This design also incorporates stacking pots for added height. In this balcony garden design, rosemary is in bloom creating a delightful smell as well as adding a touch of purple color. The modest café table ensures a nice place to sit for coffee, tea, or simply a place to rest.
5. Italian Flair
Inspired by an Italian window garden, this colorful balcony proves you can make a dramatic impact in a small space. Although there isn’t enough room for a table or chairs, this beautiful display of showy petunias is a showstopper. Window boxes are hung on the outside of the balcony where they can easily be seen from below. This design incorporates smaller pots on the inside of the balcony floor to grow greenery. By adding the greenery, a nice backdrop is provided for the petunias creating a seamless flow. Even the wall behind the balcony was used to display the beautiful flowers.
Source:HOMEBNC
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
In temperate areas of the U.S., Spanish moss, also known as Tillandsia usneoide, can be grown outdoor on oak and cypress trees without fear of losing it to killing freezes. Northerners can enjoy it, too, since this tough and determined plant will resurrect when sustained temperatures rise above about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Whether you're pulling Spanish moss from your own tree to propagate it elsewhere or receiving it as an ordered product, Tillandsia usneoides transplants readily and easily. This unusual, decorative epiphyte is adaptable, durable, undemanding and care- and maintenance-free once established. You'll soon have wispy festoons of Spanish moss waving gently in soft summer breezes.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are desirable tropical plants that grow outdoors in climates that receive no frost and as houseplants and bonsai specimens in cooler regions. Although they are not true palms and are more closely related to pine trees, sago palms look like palms and serve as interesting landscape plants. The 250 species of plants in the Cycad plant family are some of the most ancient seed-producing plant species. When the sago palm reproduces, it forms young plants, called offshoots or "pups" at its base.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
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成长记
pzsoofi
2018年05月08日
Insane leaves on the palm trees!! and baby branches all over the big one, this is so exciting!
#Succulent
#Succulent
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月31日
Oyster mushrooms are found in clusters sprouting from dead, and sometimes fallen, trees. They can be spotted from late fall to spring, almost all over the world. The spores of oyster mushrooms are collected for cultivating. Oyster mushrooms are typically eaten in soups and stews because of their subtle, nutty flavor. Growing oyster mushrooms from the spores includes swabbing the spore print with a cotton swab and wiping the spores onto a petri dish for cultivation.
Step 1
Cut off the stem of the oyster mushroom at the base of the fan-shaped cap. Cut below the white bottom of the cap.
Step 2
Place the oyster mushroom cap on the dark colored paper with the underside down on the paper. This side has the gills that hold the spores.
Step 3
Place the glass cup or bowl over the mushroom cap and place the setup in a cool and dry place for 48 hours.
Step 4
Remove the glass cup or bowl and the mushroom to find a white spore print where the spores have collected on the paper.
Step 1
Cut off the stem of the oyster mushroom at the base of the fan-shaped cap. Cut below the white bottom of the cap.
Step 2
Place the oyster mushroom cap on the dark colored paper with the underside down on the paper. This side has the gills that hold the spores.
Step 3
Place the glass cup or bowl over the mushroom cap and place the setup in a cool and dry place for 48 hours.
Step 4
Remove the glass cup or bowl and the mushroom to find a white spore print where the spores have collected on the paper.
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求助
meriunkat
2017年12月21日
Does anyone have an idea what these two plants might be? My boyfriend picked them off the ground and says they ars trees
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月10日
Truffles are small, lumpy, white mushrooms that grow on the roots of hazelnut, pine and oak trees. A tree with roots containing truffle spores may take up to a year to produce truffles; they are rare because of this. It is possible to grow truffles by planting seeds fallen from a tree with truffles on its roots, but a more reliable method is to buy a sapling inoculated with truffle spores. Although it takes time for the first truffle crop to form, after the first crop, a tree can produce truffles for many years.
Step 1
Place a terra-cotta pot on top of a drainage plate near a sunny window in a room that maintains a temperature of between 70 and 75 degrees, as truffles need a very temperate climate. Fill the pot about halfway with soil mixed with small gravel or sand. Truffles need soil with very good drainage; otherwise, they may rot.
Step 2
Gently unwrap the root ball of a sapling that has been inoculated with truffle spores, untangling the roots slightly with your fingers. Put the sapling in the center of the pot, and scoop soil over the roots until they are completely covered.
Step 3
Water the tree every other day. Empty the drainage plate when you notice water pooling and not being absorbed or evaporated.
Step 4
Wait about a year and check the soil. Look for small, rounded lumps around the roots. Gently probe the soil with your fingers to find any truffles.
Step 1
Place a terra-cotta pot on top of a drainage plate near a sunny window in a room that maintains a temperature of between 70 and 75 degrees, as truffles need a very temperate climate. Fill the pot about halfway with soil mixed with small gravel or sand. Truffles need soil with very good drainage; otherwise, they may rot.
Step 2
Gently unwrap the root ball of a sapling that has been inoculated with truffle spores, untangling the roots slightly with your fingers. Put the sapling in the center of the pot, and scoop soil over the roots until they are completely covered.
Step 3
Water the tree every other day. Empty the drainage plate when you notice water pooling and not being absorbed or evaporated.
Step 4
Wait about a year and check the soil. Look for small, rounded lumps around the roots. Gently probe the soil with your fingers to find any truffles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
A mushroom is a fleshy, spore-bearing fungus. The term is applied to stemmed varieties like the commonly cultivated white button mushroom found in grocery stores. Other types of mushrooms grow without stems or even in a wooden, leathery pattern on trees and logs. Since some mushrooms can make you violently ill when ingested, or prove fatal, those interested in using them in cooking are advised to be able to make proper field identification. When in doubt, throw it out! Learn to identify edible mushrooms.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
The thought of meaty, earthy morels gets even the most jaded mushroom hunter excited. Yet, morels can be as unpredictable as they are delicious. Conditions for morel growth need to be perfect, and they're picky about which trees they'll grow near. Different morel varieties, or morels in different regions, may prefer particular trees. Most morel trees are hardwood species, and they're frequently old, dead or dying--though this isn't always the case.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
Growing your own morel mushrooms at home will prevent you from mistaking poisonous mushrooms for them when hunting for the mushrooms in the wild. Morel mushrooms appear in the spring, and typically grow near apple and elm trees. The mushrooms are considered a delicacy, and they only grow for a limited time during the spring. Growing these mushrooms will require a lot of effort and patience, but they will be well worth the hard work and wait.
Step 1
Locate an area that has well-drained soil. Remove all the weeds and grass from the area. Choose a location with shade that receives filtered sunlight.
Step 2
Combine an equal amount of peat, wood ash and gypsum to fill the top 4 to 6 inches of soil at your prepared site. You can burn wood and collect the ash as long as you use it within 48 hours.
Step 3
Inject the morel mushroom spores into the soil with a spawning kit. Follow the direction on the kit to ensure that you inject them properly. Spread the spawn over the soil according to the kit.
Step 4
Water the morel mushroom to keep the soil moist. Remove large debris away from the growing bed.
Step 5
Harvest the morels once they reach 4 inches in height. Cover the soil with a layer of composted manure and wood ash to keep the bed prepared for the next growing season. The bed will continue to grow morel mushrooms as long as you tend to the area properly.
Step 1
Locate an area that has well-drained soil. Remove all the weeds and grass from the area. Choose a location with shade that receives filtered sunlight.
Step 2
Combine an equal amount of peat, wood ash and gypsum to fill the top 4 to 6 inches of soil at your prepared site. You can burn wood and collect the ash as long as you use it within 48 hours.
Step 3
Inject the morel mushroom spores into the soil with a spawning kit. Follow the direction on the kit to ensure that you inject them properly. Spread the spawn over the soil according to the kit.
Step 4
Water the morel mushroom to keep the soil moist. Remove large debris away from the growing bed.
Step 5
Harvest the morels once they reach 4 inches in height. Cover the soil with a layer of composted manure and wood ash to keep the bed prepared for the next growing season. The bed will continue to grow morel mushrooms as long as you tend to the area properly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月04日
Prized for its taste and texture, the morel mushroom grows wild in many areas of the United States. This quality fungus emerges naturally in the springtime along sections of decomposing trees and rich, loamy patches of soil. Until recently, this type of mushroom defied attempts to cultivate it in a garden environment, making it necessary to search through the woods to find wild specimens. Propagating morel mushrooms with purchased spawn provides an interesting activity that provides an edible produce. The process of growing this type of mushroom requires careful preparation and patience.
Step 1
Prepare the site for your morel mushroom garden. Select a shady spot that measures approximately four feet by four feet. Choose a location that does not receive animal or foot traffic. Remove all existing vegetation and debris. Turn the top three to four inches of soil to loosen the surface. Spread equal amounts of sand, gypsum and peat moss over the surface of your soil, creating a layer about an inch thick. Work these into your loosened topsoil to create a rich, sandy medium.
Step 2
Scatter a fine layer of wood ashes over the prepared soil. Morel mushrooms grow naturally in forested areas after fires, thriving on nutrients in the ashes.
Step 3
Plant your morel spawn into your prepared soil by mixing and spreading the substance according to the package instructions. Sprinkle small pieces of hardwood chips and bark over your planted mushroom bed. In their native habitat, morel mushrooms grow among elms, ashes and apple trees, so try to use those types of hardwood. Keep the area slightly moist.
Step 4
Mark and protect your mushroom garden by placing gardening stakes along the outside edges of your site. Pound the stakes about halfway into the soil and tie strings or ribbons around the stakes to avoid accidentally walking over the area. Your planted spawn may take a few years to begin producing morel mushrooms.
Step 1
Prepare the site for your morel mushroom garden. Select a shady spot that measures approximately four feet by four feet. Choose a location that does not receive animal or foot traffic. Remove all existing vegetation and debris. Turn the top three to four inches of soil to loosen the surface. Spread equal amounts of sand, gypsum and peat moss over the surface of your soil, creating a layer about an inch thick. Work these into your loosened topsoil to create a rich, sandy medium.
Step 2
Scatter a fine layer of wood ashes over the prepared soil. Morel mushrooms grow naturally in forested areas after fires, thriving on nutrients in the ashes.
Step 3
Plant your morel spawn into your prepared soil by mixing and spreading the substance according to the package instructions. Sprinkle small pieces of hardwood chips and bark over your planted mushroom bed. In their native habitat, morel mushrooms grow among elms, ashes and apple trees, so try to use those types of hardwood. Keep the area slightly moist.
Step 4
Mark and protect your mushroom garden by placing gardening stakes along the outside edges of your site. Pound the stakes about halfway into the soil and tie strings or ribbons around the stakes to avoid accidentally walking over the area. Your planted spawn may take a few years to begin producing morel mushrooms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月03日
Extravagant, rare and revered by culinary aficionados throughout the world, truffles are a pungent fungus that grows around the roots of hazelnut and other types of trees. Truffle varieties include white truffles and black truffles. To grow white truffles, you must purchase inoculated trees from a truffle farmer or a garden supplier that deals in fungi. White truffles are challenging to start, but when they become successfully established, you will reap the rewards of this delicacy for years to come. The primary climates where truffles can grow in the United States are the temperate regions of Washington, Oregon and Northern California.
Step 1
Choose a plot. Inoculated trees need be planted at least 4 feet from other plants and at least 20 feet from other trees. If you are planting several trees, plant rows spaced 12 feet apart with trees spaced 5 to 7 feet apart.
Step 2
Test the soil. Test kits are available from garden suppliers. Truffles need an alkaline soil with a pH between 7.5 and 7.9.
Step 3
Till the soil deeply. Use a rake for small plots and a rototiller for large plots. Add a 3-inch layer of compost. If your test results were below the requisite pH, add 8 oz. of hydrated lime per yard for each number the pH needs to be raised. Till the soil again to mix in the compost and lime.
Step 4
Plant sapling trees in early spring, while they are still dormant. Dig holes large enough to accommodate the roots, using a shovel. Remove the trees from their pots and insert them into the holes. Backfill the remaining space with soil and water thoroughly.
Step 5
Water your trees regularly to keep the soil moist. Do not add any fertilizer, compost or other soil additives for at least one year. Truffles will not begin growing for at least five years, perhaps longer. You may see bulges in the ground when truffles begin to grow. Pigs and trained dogs can also find truffles.
Step 6
Weed the plot regularly.
Step 7
Harvest truffles by carefully digging around them with a rigid stick.
Step 1
Choose a plot. Inoculated trees need be planted at least 4 feet from other plants and at least 20 feet from other trees. If you are planting several trees, plant rows spaced 12 feet apart with trees spaced 5 to 7 feet apart.
Step 2
Test the soil. Test kits are available from garden suppliers. Truffles need an alkaline soil with a pH between 7.5 and 7.9.
Step 3
Till the soil deeply. Use a rake for small plots and a rototiller for large plots. Add a 3-inch layer of compost. If your test results were below the requisite pH, add 8 oz. of hydrated lime per yard for each number the pH needs to be raised. Till the soil again to mix in the compost and lime.
Step 4
Plant sapling trees in early spring, while they are still dormant. Dig holes large enough to accommodate the roots, using a shovel. Remove the trees from their pots and insert them into the holes. Backfill the remaining space with soil and water thoroughly.
Step 5
Water your trees regularly to keep the soil moist. Do not add any fertilizer, compost or other soil additives for at least one year. Truffles will not begin growing for at least five years, perhaps longer. You may see bulges in the ground when truffles begin to grow. Pigs and trained dogs can also find truffles.
Step 6
Weed the plot regularly.
Step 7
Harvest truffles by carefully digging around them with a rigid stick.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月02日
The forests of North America are full of delicious fungi growing on the sides of trees. They can be boiled or stir fried and go well with Western and Asian cooking. However, look-a-likes exist that closely resemble edible fungus, yet are poisonous. It is critical for fungus collectors to know which kinds of fungus are safe to eat and which to avoid.
Oyster Mushroom
During spring, summer, fall and even during warm winter periods, the oyster mushroom grows in large clumps on the sides of trees. The mushroom is around 2 to 8 inches wide and is white, tan or off-white-colored. It has white gills under its wide cap that run down a short stem to the bark of the tree. This mushroom has a few look-a-likes, but they are not poisonous, only unpleasant. Check the reference below for a sample picture of the fungus.
Sulfur Shelf
The sulfur shelf fungus is easy to spot by its bright orange top and sulfur-yellow pores under the cap. Some are peach or salmon colored instead of bright orange. This fungus is also known as chicken mushroom and chicken of the woods. The caps range in size from 2 to 12 inches wide. The reference below contains reference pictures of this fungus. The fungus grows from summer to fall on living and dead trees. There are no close look-a-likes for this fungus. However, be careful as this mushroom can cause a mild allergic reaction in some people in the form of swollen lips. This mushroom has the texture and taste of chicken when cooked.
Wood Ear Fungus
This is a famous edible fungus that also goes by the names of cloud ear mushroom and ear of Judas mushroom. The wood ear fungus is pale off-white color or black and jelly-like in texture. It grows on the sides of trees. and can be dehydrated and re-hydrated for cooking. This fungus is often an ingredient in Chinese and other Asian dishes. Photos appear in the reference for wood ear.
Oyster Mushroom
During spring, summer, fall and even during warm winter periods, the oyster mushroom grows in large clumps on the sides of trees. The mushroom is around 2 to 8 inches wide and is white, tan or off-white-colored. It has white gills under its wide cap that run down a short stem to the bark of the tree. This mushroom has a few look-a-likes, but they are not poisonous, only unpleasant. Check the reference below for a sample picture of the fungus.
Sulfur Shelf
The sulfur shelf fungus is easy to spot by its bright orange top and sulfur-yellow pores under the cap. Some are peach or salmon colored instead of bright orange. This fungus is also known as chicken mushroom and chicken of the woods. The caps range in size from 2 to 12 inches wide. The reference below contains reference pictures of this fungus. The fungus grows from summer to fall on living and dead trees. There are no close look-a-likes for this fungus. However, be careful as this mushroom can cause a mild allergic reaction in some people in the form of swollen lips. This mushroom has the texture and taste of chicken when cooked.
Wood Ear Fungus
This is a famous edible fungus that also goes by the names of cloud ear mushroom and ear of Judas mushroom. The wood ear fungus is pale off-white color or black and jelly-like in texture. It grows on the sides of trees. and can be dehydrated and re-hydrated for cooking. This fungus is often an ingredient in Chinese and other Asian dishes. Photos appear in the reference for wood ear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月02日
Morel mushrooms are fairly common in the spring and early summer in the United States. Morels are often found near dead trees, especially elms and can be found in woodland habitats or old orchards. The morel has a classic slim cap with webbing on the skin and can literally appear on the surface of the soil overnight. The mushroom is the fruiting body of the mycelium which grows underground. Morel mushrooms are an adventure to hunt for, but for convenience and fun they can be grown in the home garden.
Step 1
Prepare an area of soil outdoors where there is shade. The morel mushroom grows in moist shady areas, so you need to make the mushroom bed as similar in habitat as possible. Top a 4-by-4-foot area of soil with 1 inch of gypsum, 1 inch of peat moss and 2 inches of sand and till in. Mix the three components in with the soil completely. Use the rake and rake the mushroom bed smooth and remove any rocks or debris.
Step 2
Spread the ashes on top of the bed to simulate burned forests where morels like to grow. Mix the mycelium spawn evenly across the bed and then top with the wood chips until just covered. The spawn is the mushroom's "seed," but mushrooms spread through spore and not seed. Mist the bed and then keep it damp by misting daily in warm weather and about once a week in cooler weather.
Step 3
Wait two years. Morel mushrooms take a long time for the mycelium to grow underground and become mature enough for fruiting. The first year will probably not yield any fruit, but by the second year there should be many for harvest. Harvest by using a clean sharp knife and cutting the mushroom off at the ground. This will preserve the mycelium so it can fruit again.
Step 1
Prepare an area of soil outdoors where there is shade. The morel mushroom grows in moist shady areas, so you need to make the mushroom bed as similar in habitat as possible. Top a 4-by-4-foot area of soil with 1 inch of gypsum, 1 inch of peat moss and 2 inches of sand and till in. Mix the three components in with the soil completely. Use the rake and rake the mushroom bed smooth and remove any rocks or debris.
Step 2
Spread the ashes on top of the bed to simulate burned forests where morels like to grow. Mix the mycelium spawn evenly across the bed and then top with the wood chips until just covered. The spawn is the mushroom's "seed," but mushrooms spread through spore and not seed. Mist the bed and then keep it damp by misting daily in warm weather and about once a week in cooler weather.
Step 3
Wait two years. Morel mushrooms take a long time for the mycelium to grow underground and become mature enough for fruiting. The first year will probably not yield any fruit, but by the second year there should be many for harvest. Harvest by using a clean sharp knife and cutting the mushroom off at the ground. This will preserve the mycelium so it can fruit again.
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