文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月30日
Pine trees and their fallen needles create an acidic soil environment hostile to many plants and fungi. There are, however, several types of mushrooms that not only tolerate the soil beneath pine trees but thrive in such a location. Mushrooms associated with pine trees include edibles, such as the prized king bolete and matsutake mushrooms, as well as poisonous mushrooms, like the death cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月26日
Oyster mushrooms are found in clusters sprouting from dead, and sometimes fallen, trees. They can be spotted from late fall to spring, almost all over the world. The spores of oyster mushrooms are collected for cultivating. Oyster mushrooms are typically eaten in soups and stews because of their subtle, nutty flavor. Growing oyster mushrooms from the spores includes swabbing the spore print with a cotton swab and wiping the spores onto a petri dish for cultivation.
Step 1
Cut off the stem of the oyster mushroom at the base of the fan-shaped cap. Cut below the white bottom of the cap.
Step 2
Place the oyster mushroom cap on the dark colored paper with the underside down on the paper. This side has the gills that hold the spores.
Step 3
Place the glass cup or bowl over the mushroom cap and place the setup in a cool and dry place for 48 hours.
Step 4
Remove the glass cup or bowl and the mushroom to find a white spore print where the spores have collected on the paper.
Step 1
Cut off the stem of the oyster mushroom at the base of the fan-shaped cap. Cut below the white bottom of the cap.
Step 2
Place the oyster mushroom cap on the dark colored paper with the underside down on the paper. This side has the gills that hold the spores.
Step 3
Place the glass cup or bowl over the mushroom cap and place the setup in a cool and dry place for 48 hours.
Step 4
Remove the glass cup or bowl and the mushroom to find a white spore print where the spores have collected on the paper.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Unlike many fruit-bearing trees growing in the United States, blueberries offer the home gardener a chance to cultivate these delectable berries in small backyards as long as the proper conditions exist.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
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成长记
riverrun
2017年10月05日
the flowers of lemon trees smell soo intense and good. i really think they should be a "bigger thing"
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
One beautiful spring day a red rose blossomed in a forest. Many kinds of trees and plants grew there. As the rose looked around, a pine tree nearby said, “What a beautiful flower. I wish I was that lovely.” Another tree said, “Dear pine, do not be sad, we can not have everything.” 
The rose turned its head and remarked, “It seems that I am the most beautiful plant in this forest.” A sunflower raised its yellow head and asked, “Why do you say that? In this forest there are many beautiful plants. You are just one of them.” The red rose replied, “I see everyone looking at me and admiring me.” Then the rose looked at a cactus and said, “Look at that ugly plant full of thorns!” The pine tree said, “Red rose, what kind of talk is this? Who can say what beauty is? You have thorns too.”
The proud red rose looked angrily at the pine and said, “I thought you had good taste! You do not know what beauty is at all. You can not compare my thorns to that of the cactus.” “What a proud flower”, thought the trees.
The rose tried to move its roots away from the cactus, but it could not move. As the days passed,the red rose would look at the cactus and say insulting things, like: This plant is useless? How sorry I am to be his neighbor.
The cactus never got upset and he even tried to advise the rose, saying, “God did not create any form of life without a purpose.”
Spring passed, and the weather became very warm. Life became difficult in the forest, as the plants and animals needed water and no rain fell. The red rose began to wilt. One day the rose saw sparrows stick their beaks into the cactus and then fly away, refreshed. This was puzzling, and the red rose asked the pine tree what the birds were doing. The pine tree explained that the birds got water from the cactus. “Does it not hurt when they make holes?” asked the rose.
“Yes, but the cactus does not like to see any birds suffer,” replied the pine.
The rose opened its eyes in wonder and said, “The cactus has water?”
“Yes you can also drink from it. The sparrow can bring water to you if you ask the cactus for help.”
The red rose felt too ashamed of its past words and behavior to ask for water from the cactus, but then it finally did ask the cactus for help. The cactus kindly agreed and the birds filled their beaks with water and watered the rose’s roots. Thus the rose learned a lesson and never judged anyone by their appearance again.
The rose turned its head and remarked, “It seems that I am the most beautiful plant in this forest.” A sunflower raised its yellow head and asked, “Why do you say that? In this forest there are many beautiful plants. You are just one of them.” The red rose replied, “I see everyone looking at me and admiring me.” Then the rose looked at a cactus and said, “Look at that ugly plant full of thorns!” The pine tree said, “Red rose, what kind of talk is this? Who can say what beauty is? You have thorns too.”
The proud red rose looked angrily at the pine and said, “I thought you had good taste! You do not know what beauty is at all. You can not compare my thorns to that of the cactus.” “What a proud flower”, thought the trees.
The rose tried to move its roots away from the cactus, but it could not move. As the days passed,the red rose would look at the cactus and say insulting things, like: This plant is useless? How sorry I am to be his neighbor.
The cactus never got upset and he even tried to advise the rose, saying, “God did not create any form of life without a purpose.”
Spring passed, and the weather became very warm. Life became difficult in the forest, as the plants and animals needed water and no rain fell. The red rose began to wilt. One day the rose saw sparrows stick their beaks into the cactus and then fly away, refreshed. This was puzzling, and the red rose asked the pine tree what the birds were doing. The pine tree explained that the birds got water from the cactus. “Does it not hurt when they make holes?” asked the rose.
“Yes, but the cactus does not like to see any birds suffer,” replied the pine.
The rose opened its eyes in wonder and said, “The cactus has water?”
“Yes you can also drink from it. The sparrow can bring water to you if you ask the cactus for help.”
The red rose felt too ashamed of its past words and behavior to ask for water from the cactus, but then it finally did ask the cactus for help. The cactus kindly agreed and the birds filled their beaks with water and watered the rose’s roots. Thus the rose learned a lesson and never judged anyone by their appearance again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Plumeria plants, which are also known as Lei Flowers and Frangipani, are actually small trees that are native to tropical regions. The flowers of these beautiful plants are used in making traditional Hawaiian leis. They are highly fragrant and bloom freely from spring throughout fall in multiple colors like white, yellow, pink, and red. These flowers stand out nicely amid the large-leaved foliage, which may be evergreen or deciduous, depending on the type.
Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.
While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.
When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine.
Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.
Pruning
Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.
Propagation
These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.
Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.
While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.
When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine.
Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.
Pruning
Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.
Propagation
These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Calliandra, commonly known as Powder Puff plants, are fairly common landscape plants in the tropics and subtropics. There, they are grown as small trees with woody stems and especially prized for their profuse displays of red “powder puff” flowers that blanket the tree every year. The puffs are actually the stamens of the flowers, and they really are beautiful. Indoors, these plants are kept smaller by necessity and, under the right conditions, can be coaxed into winter blooms or year-round blooms. Even though they are somewhat drought tolerant, they are not especially easy to bring to bloom inside. They are sensitive to cold, dry air, which perfectly describes the conditions in many homes. Even if the plant doesn’t bloom, however, its fern-like, segmented leaves are drooping and beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Laburnums are more commonly known as Golden Chain Trees. In the spring, the tree blooms with large clusters of bright yellow flowers. The panicles, or clusters, can be up to 10 inches (25 cm) in length.
Desirable for their showy spring appearance, the trees can grow on a single trunk or as a shrub. Although attractive and relatively free of pests, they can be moderately difficult to grow, as the plants have rather specific environmental needs. Laburnums thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a growing site that is exposed to full sunlight. The more sunlight, the better the Laburnum will bloom. An exception to this rule is home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8. Laburnums do not tolerate heat well, so gardeners who live in hotter climates should choose a location that gets morning sun but is shaded from direct exposure to hot afternoon sunlight.
Plant your Laburnum in rich, well-drained soil. These trees are small — they average about 20 feet (50 cm) in height — so they can also be grown in containers. If you use a container, make sure it has drainage holes.
Water frequently. These trees thrive in cool, moist soils and grow best in climates that have mild, wet summers. Water at least once each week — more often when the weather is hotter than usual.
Fertilize in early spring, before bud break. Use a fertilizer formulated for flowering trees and shrubs, and one that has a high acid content. Laburnum thrive in high pH soils. Follow the directions on the package according to the size and age of your Laburnum.
Wrap the trunk of the tree with tree wrap — available at any local garden center — to protect the bark from being damaged by the sun in the winter. This damage is called “sunscald,” and it happens when a warm winter day is followed by freezing temperatures. Wrap the tree in the fall, before colder weather arrives.
Tip
Home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8 might be wise to grow their plants in containers. This way, they will get the full effect of the sun during most of the spring, and blooming will be optimized. When midsummer arrives, the tree can be moved to the shade.
Warning
The flowers and seed pods of this tree are poisonous, so keep them out of reach of children and pets.
Desirable for their showy spring appearance, the trees can grow on a single trunk or as a shrub. Although attractive and relatively free of pests, they can be moderately difficult to grow, as the plants have rather specific environmental needs. Laburnums thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a growing site that is exposed to full sunlight. The more sunlight, the better the Laburnum will bloom. An exception to this rule is home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8. Laburnums do not tolerate heat well, so gardeners who live in hotter climates should choose a location that gets morning sun but is shaded from direct exposure to hot afternoon sunlight.
Plant your Laburnum in rich, well-drained soil. These trees are small — they average about 20 feet (50 cm) in height — so they can also be grown in containers. If you use a container, make sure it has drainage holes.
Water frequently. These trees thrive in cool, moist soils and grow best in climates that have mild, wet summers. Water at least once each week — more often when the weather is hotter than usual.
Fertilize in early spring, before bud break. Use a fertilizer formulated for flowering trees and shrubs, and one that has a high acid content. Laburnum thrive in high pH soils. Follow the directions on the package according to the size and age of your Laburnum.
Wrap the trunk of the tree with tree wrap — available at any local garden center — to protect the bark from being damaged by the sun in the winter. This damage is called “sunscald,” and it happens when a warm winter day is followed by freezing temperatures. Wrap the tree in the fall, before colder weather arrives.
Tip
Home gardeners who live in USDA zone 8 might be wise to grow their plants in containers. This way, they will get the full effect of the sun during most of the spring, and blooming will be optimized. When midsummer arrives, the tree can be moved to the shade.
Warning
The flowers and seed pods of this tree are poisonous, so keep them out of reach of children and pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spring is a good time to begin growing and digging, although planning can take place before the snow melts. Gardeners spend most of the summer watering, weeding, and watching young plants grow. Fall is a good time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, and some perennials.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cicada bugs emerge every 13 or 17 years to terrorize trees and the people who care for them. Are your trees at risk? Learn to minimize cicada damage to trees in this article. 
Do Cicadas Damage Trees?
Cicadas can damage trees, but not in the ways you might think. The adults might feed on leaves, but not enough to cause any serious or lasting damage. The larvae drop to the ground and dig down to the roots where they feed until it’s time to pupate. While root feeding robs the tree of nutrients that would otherwise help it grow, arborists have never documented any damage to the tree from this type of feeding.
Tree damage from cicada insects occurs during the egg laying process. The female lays her eggs under the bark of a twig or branch. The twig splits and dies, and the leaves on the twig turn brown. This condition is called “flagging.” You can spot flagging twigs and branches at a glance because of the contrast of brown leaves against the healthy green leaves on other branches.
Female cicadas are particular about the size of the branch or twig where they lay their eggs, preferring those that are about the diameter of a pencil. This means that older trees won’t sustain serious damage because their primary branches are much larger. Young trees, on the other hand, may be so severely damaged that they die from their injuries.
Minimizing Cicada Damage to Trees
Most people don’t want to wage chemical warfare in their own backyard to prevent tree damage from cicada insects, so here’s a list of prevention measures that don’t involve the use of insecticides:
Don’t plant new trees within four years of the cicadas emerging. Young trees are at high risk, so it’s best to wait until the danger has passed. Your Cooperative Extension agent can tell you when to expect the cicadas. Prevent cicada bugs in small trees by covering them with netting.
The netting should have a mesh size no longer than one quarter inch. Fasten the netting around the trunk of the tree just below the canopy to prevent emerging cicadas from climbing up the trunk. Clip off and destroy flagging damage. This reduces the population of the next generation by eliminating the eggs.
Do Cicadas Damage Trees?
Cicadas can damage trees, but not in the ways you might think. The adults might feed on leaves, but not enough to cause any serious or lasting damage. The larvae drop to the ground and dig down to the roots where they feed until it’s time to pupate. While root feeding robs the tree of nutrients that would otherwise help it grow, arborists have never documented any damage to the tree from this type of feeding.
Tree damage from cicada insects occurs during the egg laying process. The female lays her eggs under the bark of a twig or branch. The twig splits and dies, and the leaves on the twig turn brown. This condition is called “flagging.” You can spot flagging twigs and branches at a glance because of the contrast of brown leaves against the healthy green leaves on other branches.
Female cicadas are particular about the size of the branch or twig where they lay their eggs, preferring those that are about the diameter of a pencil. This means that older trees won’t sustain serious damage because their primary branches are much larger. Young trees, on the other hand, may be so severely damaged that they die from their injuries.
Minimizing Cicada Damage to Trees
Most people don’t want to wage chemical warfare in their own backyard to prevent tree damage from cicada insects, so here’s a list of prevention measures that don’t involve the use of insecticides:
Don’t plant new trees within four years of the cicadas emerging. Young trees are at high risk, so it’s best to wait until the danger has passed. Your Cooperative Extension agent can tell you when to expect the cicadas. Prevent cicada bugs in small trees by covering them with netting.
The netting should have a mesh size no longer than one quarter inch. Fasten the netting around the trunk of the tree just below the canopy to prevent emerging cicadas from climbing up the trunk. Clip off and destroy flagging damage. This reduces the population of the next generation by eliminating the eggs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
What are kermes scale pests? Kermes scale are aggressive sap-sucking pests that can cause significant damage in oak trees. Treating kermes scale on plants is attained by a variety of methods. Read on to learn about kermes scale control.
Kermes Scale Life Cycle
Pinning down kermes scale life cycle is a difficult task. According to Illinois State University Extension, there are more than 30 different kermes scale species. Identification of the specific species is difficult and hatching times vary widely. Your local Cooperative Extension Agent can advise you what types of kermes scale are present in your area, and about the best times for treating kermes scale pests on your trees.
Treating Kermes Scale
Kermes scale pests are most likely to infest trees that are under stress. Ensure trees are properly watered and fertilized. Prune infested twigs and branches, and keep the area under the tree free of plant debris.
Encourage beneficial insects in your garden, as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will help keep kermes scale in check. Use chemical insecticides only when nothing else works, as insecticides aren’t selective and will kill bees and other beneficial insects as well as scale, often resulting in pests that are resistant to chemicals and more difficult to control.
Treating kermes scale is most effective when the pests are newly hatched or early in the crawling stage, which is autumn for most species. However, some species may produce crawlers in midsummer. Keep in mind that sprays won’t penetrate scales’ tough, waxy covering.
Try using a pyrethroid-based insecticide, which is plant-based and safer for beneficial insects. You can also spray overwintering scales with horticultural oil in late winter or early spring. Dormant oil is effective when temperatures are above freezing. Both oils will smother the pests.
Insecticidal soap sprays may be effective on scales that are recently settled and are relatively safe for beneficial insects because the spray is effective only when wet. However, direct contact will kill the good guys. Also, don’t use insecticidal soap spray when temperatures are hot, or when the sun is directly on the foliage.
Kermes Scale Life Cycle
Pinning down kermes scale life cycle is a difficult task. According to Illinois State University Extension, there are more than 30 different kermes scale species. Identification of the specific species is difficult and hatching times vary widely. Your local Cooperative Extension Agent can advise you what types of kermes scale are present in your area, and about the best times for treating kermes scale pests on your trees.
Treating Kermes Scale
Kermes scale pests are most likely to infest trees that are under stress. Ensure trees are properly watered and fertilized. Prune infested twigs and branches, and keep the area under the tree free of plant debris.
Encourage beneficial insects in your garden, as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will help keep kermes scale in check. Use chemical insecticides only when nothing else works, as insecticides aren’t selective and will kill bees and other beneficial insects as well as scale, often resulting in pests that are resistant to chemicals and more difficult to control.
Treating kermes scale is most effective when the pests are newly hatched or early in the crawling stage, which is autumn for most species. However, some species may produce crawlers in midsummer. Keep in mind that sprays won’t penetrate scales’ tough, waxy covering.
Try using a pyrethroid-based insecticide, which is plant-based and safer for beneficial insects. You can also spray overwintering scales with horticultural oil in late winter or early spring. Dormant oil is effective when temperatures are above freezing. Both oils will smother the pests.
Insecticidal soap sprays may be effective on scales that are recently settled and are relatively safe for beneficial insects because the spray is effective only when wet. However, direct contact will kill the good guys. Also, don’t use insecticidal soap spray when temperatures are hot, or when the sun is directly on the foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
It’s surprising that such tiny creatures as spider mites can have such a big impact on trees. Even the largest tree can sustain serious damage. Read on to find out what to do about spider mites in trees. 
About Spider Mites in Trees
Although we sometimes call them “bugs” or “insects,” the fact that they have eight legs means that technically, spider mites are more closely related to spidersand ticks. They can seriously damage trees because they are present in large numbers. Each adult female can lay around 100 eggs and, in warm weather, they can have up to 30 generations in a year.
The last clutch of eggs overwinters on the trees and waits until warm weather returns to hatch. That means that if you had spider mites last year, you will have them again this year unless you are using spider mite control for trees in your landscape.
Make sure it is spider mites causing the problem, though, and not a disease or insect before you begin a program of spider mite control. The mites feed by sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves, causing little white dots called stipples.
When the mites are present in large numbers, the leaves turn yellow or bronze and drop off. Silk webbing over the leaves and tender shoots is another indication that you have spider mites. If you still aren’t sure whether you have spider mite tree damage or another problem, try this test. Hold a piece of white paper under the tip of a stem with damage. Tap the tip of the stem so that specks fall onto the paper. Now wait a few minutes to see if some of the specks start to move. Moving specks means spider mites.
Control of Spider Mites
If the tree is small enough that you can reach all of the branches with a water hose, all you have to do is give it a forceful spray. Use as much pressure as the tree can bear without damage. Check for mites after the tree dries, and repeat as necessary.
You can’t spray a tall tree forcefully enough to get rid of the mites for good, but trees benefit from a rinsing now and then. Spider mites thrive in dusty conditions, so rinse the branches as best you can and keep bare patches of ground lightly moist to eliminate flying dust.
Predatory mites and lacewingsare natural enemies of spider mites. There are many species of predatory mites, each with their own strengths and weaknesses when it comes to controlling spider mites. Try to find a local source where you can get help choosing the right species and determining how many you need.
Chemicals are the last resort for pest control. Before you run out and buy the first product you can find, be aware that some make the problem worse. For instance, carbaryl (Sevin) makes spider mites reproduce faster, and pyrethroids add nitrogen to the leaves, making them tastier.
Two good choices are horticultural oils and insecticidal soap. You should read and carefully follow the label instructions, especially when using horticultural oils. Using the oils at the wrong time may not solve the problem and can damage the tree. Spray insecticidal soap and horticultural oil until the products drip from the tree. Neither have lasting effects, so you may have to spray several times through the growing season.
About Spider Mites in Trees
Although we sometimes call them “bugs” or “insects,” the fact that they have eight legs means that technically, spider mites are more closely related to spidersand ticks. They can seriously damage trees because they are present in large numbers. Each adult female can lay around 100 eggs and, in warm weather, they can have up to 30 generations in a year.
The last clutch of eggs overwinters on the trees and waits until warm weather returns to hatch. That means that if you had spider mites last year, you will have them again this year unless you are using spider mite control for trees in your landscape.
Make sure it is spider mites causing the problem, though, and not a disease or insect before you begin a program of spider mite control. The mites feed by sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves, causing little white dots called stipples.
When the mites are present in large numbers, the leaves turn yellow or bronze and drop off. Silk webbing over the leaves and tender shoots is another indication that you have spider mites. If you still aren’t sure whether you have spider mite tree damage or another problem, try this test. Hold a piece of white paper under the tip of a stem with damage. Tap the tip of the stem so that specks fall onto the paper. Now wait a few minutes to see if some of the specks start to move. Moving specks means spider mites.
Control of Spider Mites
If the tree is small enough that you can reach all of the branches with a water hose, all you have to do is give it a forceful spray. Use as much pressure as the tree can bear without damage. Check for mites after the tree dries, and repeat as necessary.
You can’t spray a tall tree forcefully enough to get rid of the mites for good, but trees benefit from a rinsing now and then. Spider mites thrive in dusty conditions, so rinse the branches as best you can and keep bare patches of ground lightly moist to eliminate flying dust.
Predatory mites and lacewingsare natural enemies of spider mites. There are many species of predatory mites, each with their own strengths and weaknesses when it comes to controlling spider mites. Try to find a local source where you can get help choosing the right species and determining how many you need.
Chemicals are the last resort for pest control. Before you run out and buy the first product you can find, be aware that some make the problem worse. For instance, carbaryl (Sevin) makes spider mites reproduce faster, and pyrethroids add nitrogen to the leaves, making them tastier.
Two good choices are horticultural oils and insecticidal soap. You should read and carefully follow the label instructions, especially when using horticultural oils. Using the oils at the wrong time may not solve the problem and can damage the tree. Spray insecticidal soap and horticultural oil until the products drip from the tree. Neither have lasting effects, so you may have to spray several times through the growing season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sycamore anthracnose is a fungal disease that can cause leaf drop, twig dieback, cankers and the sudden death of more than 90% of a tree’s new shoot growth. Although the disease is rarely fatal and trees will grow a second set of leaves, repeat infections will result in abnormal branching and will leave a tree stressed and more susceptible to other diseases and pests. American sycamore or buttonwood (Platanus occidentalis), London plane tree (P. x acerifolia) and Oriental plane tree (P. orientalis) may all be affected by sycamore anthracnose.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
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