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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Ohio’s state tree and the symbol for Ohio State University’s intercollegiate athletics, Ohio buckeye trees (Aesculus glabra) are the best known of the 13 species of buckeyes. Other members of the genus include medium to large trees such as the horse chestnut (A. hippocastanum) and large shrubs like the red buckeye (A. pavia). Read on for information about buckeye tree planting and some interesting buckeye tree facts.
Buckeye Tree Facts
Buckeye leaves are made up of five leaflets that are arranged like spread fingers on a hand. They are bright green when they emerge and darken as they age. The flowers, which are arranged in long panicles, bloom in spring. Green, leathery fruit replace the flowers in summer. Buckeyes are one of the first trees to leaf out in spring, and also the first to drop their foliage in fall. Most of the trees in North America called “chestnuts” are actually horse chestnuts or buckeyes. A fungal blight wiped out most of the true chestnuts between 1900 and 1940 and very few specimens survived. The nuts from buckeyes and horse chestnuts are poisonous to humans.
How to Plant a Buckeye Tree
Plant buckeye trees in spring or fall. They grow well in full sun or partial shade and adapt to most any soil, but they don’t like an extremely dry environment. Dig the hole deep enough to accommodate the root ball and at least twice as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, lay a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole to make sure the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil. Trees that are buried too deep are susceptible to rot. Backfill the hole with unamended soil. There is no need to fertilize or add soil amendments until the following spring.
Water deeply and in the absence of rain, following up with weekly waterings until the tree is established and beginning to grow. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree will help keep the soil evenly moist. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the trunk to discourage rot. The main reason you don’t see more buckeyes as a yard tree is the litter they create. From dead flowers to leaves to the leathery and sometimes spiny fruit, it seems that something is always falling from the trees. Most property owners prefer to grow buckeyes in woodland settings and out-of-the-way areas.
Buckeye Tree Facts
Buckeye leaves are made up of five leaflets that are arranged like spread fingers on a hand. They are bright green when they emerge and darken as they age. The flowers, which are arranged in long panicles, bloom in spring. Green, leathery fruit replace the flowers in summer. Buckeyes are one of the first trees to leaf out in spring, and also the first to drop their foliage in fall. Most of the trees in North America called “chestnuts” are actually horse chestnuts or buckeyes. A fungal blight wiped out most of the true chestnuts between 1900 and 1940 and very few specimens survived. The nuts from buckeyes and horse chestnuts are poisonous to humans.
How to Plant a Buckeye Tree
Plant buckeye trees in spring or fall. They grow well in full sun or partial shade and adapt to most any soil, but they don’t like an extremely dry environment. Dig the hole deep enough to accommodate the root ball and at least twice as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, lay a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole to make sure the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil. Trees that are buried too deep are susceptible to rot. Backfill the hole with unamended soil. There is no need to fertilize or add soil amendments until the following spring.
Water deeply and in the absence of rain, following up with weekly waterings until the tree is established and beginning to grow. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree will help keep the soil evenly moist. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the trunk to discourage rot. The main reason you don’t see more buckeyes as a yard tree is the litter they create. From dead flowers to leaves to the leathery and sometimes spiny fruit, it seems that something is always falling from the trees. Most property owners prefer to grow buckeyes in woodland settings and out-of-the-way areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Red buckeye trees are relatively easy to care for, medium sized trees or shrubs that produce showy red flowers in the spring. They are a great choice for large, easy decoration along borders. Keep reading to learn more about red buckeye tree care and red buckeye tree growth.
Red Buckeye Tree Growth
What is a red buckeye tree? Red buckeye trees (Aesculus pavia) are North American natives from southern Missouri. They grow in USDA zones 4 through 8. For several weeks in the spring the trees produce bright red panicles of tube-shaped flowers. The flowers have no real scent, but they are striking in color and very attractive to hummingbirds.
Once the flowers fade, they are replaced by dry, round, orange fruits. These fruits are toxic to both animals and humans. Keep this in mind when choosing a planting location. The trees produce a lot of fruit, and when it drops it can be a nuisance to clean up and a real danger to pets and children. Red buckeye trees are deciduous, but their leaves aren’t showy in the fall. They barely change color and drop relatively early.
Red Buckeye Tree Care
Planting a red buckeye tree is relatively easy. The trees can be grown very successfully from seed and should bloom within three years. Red buckeye tree growth is best in rich soil that is well drained but moist. The trees do not handle drought well. They will grow in both shade and sun, but they’ll stay smaller and won’t fill out as nicely in the shade. In sun, the trees tend to grow between 15 and 20 feet in height, though they will sometimes reach as high as 35 feet.
Red Buckeye Tree Growth
What is a red buckeye tree? Red buckeye trees (Aesculus pavia) are North American natives from southern Missouri. They grow in USDA zones 4 through 8. For several weeks in the spring the trees produce bright red panicles of tube-shaped flowers. The flowers have no real scent, but they are striking in color and very attractive to hummingbirds.
Once the flowers fade, they are replaced by dry, round, orange fruits. These fruits are toxic to both animals and humans. Keep this in mind when choosing a planting location. The trees produce a lot of fruit, and when it drops it can be a nuisance to clean up and a real danger to pets and children. Red buckeye trees are deciduous, but their leaves aren’t showy in the fall. They barely change color and drop relatively early.
Red Buckeye Tree Care
Planting a red buckeye tree is relatively easy. The trees can be grown very successfully from seed and should bloom within three years. Red buckeye tree growth is best in rich soil that is well drained but moist. The trees do not handle drought well. They will grow in both shade and sun, but they’ll stay smaller and won’t fill out as nicely in the shade. In sun, the trees tend to grow between 15 and 20 feet in height, though they will sometimes reach as high as 35 feet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Here’s a species of tree you might not see growing wild in your area. Kurrajong bottle trees (Brachychiton populneus) are hardy evergreens from Australia with bottle-shaped trunks that the tree uses for water storage. The trees are also called lacebark Kurrajongs. This is because the bark of the young trees stretch over time, and the old bark forms lacy patterns on the new bark beneath. Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is not difficult since the species is tolerant of most soils. Read on for more information about bottle tree care.
Kurrajong Tree Info
The Australian bottle tree is a pretty specimen with a rounded canopy. It rises to some 50 feet high and wide, offering an evergreen canopy of shiny, lance-shaped or lobed leaves several inches long. It is fairly common to see leaves with three lobes or even five lobes, and Kurrajong bottle trees do not have thorns. The bell-shaped flowers are even more attractive when they arrive in early spring. They are creamy white, or off-white, and decorated with pink or red dots. In time, the flowers of the Australian bottle tree develop into edible seeds that grow encased in pods. The pods themselves appear in clusters in a star pattern. The seeds are hairy but, otherwise, look something like corn kernels. These are used as food by the Australia aborigines.
Bottle Tree Care
Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is a rapid business, since this little tree gets to its mature height and breadth in no time. The principal growing requirement of the Australian bottle tree is sunshine; it cannot grow in shade. In most ways the tree is undemanding. It accepts almost any type of well-drained soil in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, including clay, sand and loam. It grows in dry soil or moist soil, and tolerates both acidic and alkaline soil.
However, if you are planting an Australian bottle tree, plant it in direct sun in a moderately fertile soil for best results. Avoid wet soil or shady areas. Kurrajong bottle trees are not demanding about irrigation either. Bottle tree care involves providing moderate amounts of water in dry weather. The trunks of Kurrajong bottle trees store water, when it is available.
Kurrajong Tree Info
The Australian bottle tree is a pretty specimen with a rounded canopy. It rises to some 50 feet high and wide, offering an evergreen canopy of shiny, lance-shaped or lobed leaves several inches long. It is fairly common to see leaves with three lobes or even five lobes, and Kurrajong bottle trees do not have thorns. The bell-shaped flowers are even more attractive when they arrive in early spring. They are creamy white, or off-white, and decorated with pink or red dots. In time, the flowers of the Australian bottle tree develop into edible seeds that grow encased in pods. The pods themselves appear in clusters in a star pattern. The seeds are hairy but, otherwise, look something like corn kernels. These are used as food by the Australia aborigines.
Bottle Tree Care
Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is a rapid business, since this little tree gets to its mature height and breadth in no time. The principal growing requirement of the Australian bottle tree is sunshine; it cannot grow in shade. In most ways the tree is undemanding. It accepts almost any type of well-drained soil in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, including clay, sand and loam. It grows in dry soil or moist soil, and tolerates both acidic and alkaline soil.
However, if you are planting an Australian bottle tree, plant it in direct sun in a moderately fertile soil for best results. Avoid wet soil or shady areas. Kurrajong bottle trees are not demanding about irrigation either. Bottle tree care involves providing moderate amounts of water in dry weather. The trunks of Kurrajong bottle trees store water, when it is available.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Native to northern climates, paper birch trees are lovely additions to rural landscapes. Their narrow canopy produces dappled shade that makes it possible to grow these trees in a sea of groundcover plants such as wintergreen and barberry, and you can even grow grass under them. Unfortunately, paper birches don’t fare well in the city where they struggle to survive in the face of pollution, heat and dry conditions. Although they love cool climates, the branches break easily on windy days, especially when weighted down with snow and ice. Despite these drawbacks, they are well worth growing for their beautiful bark that shines against a dark background.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
A weeping silver birch is a graceful beauty. Bright white bark and long, downward growing shoots at the ends of the branches create an effect unmatched by other landscape trees. Find out more about this lovely tree and weeping silver birch care in this article.
What are Weeping Silver Brich Trees?
Weeping silver birch (Betula pendula) is a European species that is well suited to North American locations with mild summers and cold winters. It isn’t a low-maintenance tree, but it well worth the time you put into it. Weeping silver birch growing conditions include full sun and well-drained, moist soil. The soil should never dry out. A thick layer of mulch around the base of the tree will help hold moisture in. Weeping silver birch trees grow best in areas where summer temperatures rarely exceed 75 degrees Fahrenheit (25 C.) and where the roots are covered with snow for most of the winter.
Care of Weeping Silver Birch
An important part of the care of weeping silver birch trees is keeping the soil evenly moist. If the soil in the area isn’t naturally moist, install drip irrigation under the mulch. The tree is susceptible to fungal diseases for which there is no cure, but you may be able to keep them at bay by pruning out diseased twigs and branches. Prune in late winter before the tree breaks dormancy. Pruning cuts bleed an abundance of sap if you wait until spring. Cut back to healthy wood. The cut will stimulate growth from the side shoots and nodes below it, so it’s best to cut just above a node or side shoot.
If the long shoots make landscaping tasks, such as mowing, difficult, you can cut them back to the desired length. Always mow so that any sticks or debris caught by the mower blades will be thrown away from the tree instead of toward it to prevent trunk injuries. Injuries create entry points for insects and disease. Plant a weeping silver birch in an area where it is in scale with the rest of the landscape and where it has room to spread to its mature size. The tree will grow 40 to 50 feet tall, and will look awkward in a small yard. The canopy will spread 25 to 30 feet, and it should not be crowded by structures or other trees.
What are Weeping Silver Brich Trees?
Weeping silver birch (Betula pendula) is a European species that is well suited to North American locations with mild summers and cold winters. It isn’t a low-maintenance tree, but it well worth the time you put into it. Weeping silver birch growing conditions include full sun and well-drained, moist soil. The soil should never dry out. A thick layer of mulch around the base of the tree will help hold moisture in. Weeping silver birch trees grow best in areas where summer temperatures rarely exceed 75 degrees Fahrenheit (25 C.) and where the roots are covered with snow for most of the winter.
Care of Weeping Silver Birch
An important part of the care of weeping silver birch trees is keeping the soil evenly moist. If the soil in the area isn’t naturally moist, install drip irrigation under the mulch. The tree is susceptible to fungal diseases for which there is no cure, but you may be able to keep them at bay by pruning out diseased twigs and branches. Prune in late winter before the tree breaks dormancy. Pruning cuts bleed an abundance of sap if you wait until spring. Cut back to healthy wood. The cut will stimulate growth from the side shoots and nodes below it, so it’s best to cut just above a node or side shoot.
If the long shoots make landscaping tasks, such as mowing, difficult, you can cut them back to the desired length. Always mow so that any sticks or debris caught by the mower blades will be thrown away from the tree instead of toward it to prevent trunk injuries. Injuries create entry points for insects and disease. Plant a weeping silver birch in an area where it is in scale with the rest of the landscape and where it has room to spread to its mature size. The tree will grow 40 to 50 feet tall, and will look awkward in a small yard. The canopy will spread 25 to 30 feet, and it should not be crowded by structures or other trees.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Birch trees are highly desirable landscape trees because of their beautiful bark and graceful foliage. Unfortunately, they aren’t known for their long lifespan. You can improve their chances by pruning birch trees properly, and taking advantage of the best time to prune birch trees.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
If you tell your friends or neighbors that you are growing bee bee trees, you may get lots of questions. What is a bee bee tree? Do bees like bee bee tree plant flowers? Is bee bee tree invasive? Read on for answers to all these questions plus tips of growing bee bee trees.
What is a Bee Bee Tree?
The bee bee tree, also known as Korean evodia (Evodia daniellii syn. Tetradium daniellii), is not a well-known ornamental, but it should be. The tree is small, generally not much taller than 25 feet, and its dark green leaves provide light shade beneath. The bark is smooth, like beech tree bark.
The species is dioecious, so there are male trees and female trees. In late spring or early summer, female bee bee trees grow a gorgeous display of fragrant, flat-topped flower clusters that last a long time. Bees love the flowers, and beekeepers love the bee bee tree plant’s long blooming season. On the female bee bee tree plants, the flowers ultimately give way to fruits in the form of capsules. Inside are purple, fleshy seeds.
Bee Bee Tree Care
If you are planning on growing bee bee trees, you’ll be glad to know that bee bee tree care is not difficult if you select an appropriate location. The tree thrives in moist, fertile soil that drains well, and does best in full sun. Like most trees, bee bee tree plants require regular irrigation for the first year after planting. This is an especially important aspect of bee bee tree care when the weather is dry. After establishment, the mature trees can tolerate some seasonal dryness. You’ll find that bee bee trees do not suffer from many diseases, nor are they attacked by insect pests. In fact, even deer tend not browse bee bee tree plants.
Is Bee Bee Tree Invasive?
The bee bee tree fruit produces many seeds. These seeds can propagate the species far and wide when spread by hungry birds, even naturalizing in the wild. Scientists do not know very much about this tree’s impact on the environment. Given its invasive possibilities in some circumstances, it is called a “watch list species.”
What is a Bee Bee Tree?
The bee bee tree, also known as Korean evodia (Evodia daniellii syn. Tetradium daniellii), is not a well-known ornamental, but it should be. The tree is small, generally not much taller than 25 feet, and its dark green leaves provide light shade beneath. The bark is smooth, like beech tree bark.
The species is dioecious, so there are male trees and female trees. In late spring or early summer, female bee bee trees grow a gorgeous display of fragrant, flat-topped flower clusters that last a long time. Bees love the flowers, and beekeepers love the bee bee tree plant’s long blooming season. On the female bee bee tree plants, the flowers ultimately give way to fruits in the form of capsules. Inside are purple, fleshy seeds.
Bee Bee Tree Care
If you are planning on growing bee bee trees, you’ll be glad to know that bee bee tree care is not difficult if you select an appropriate location. The tree thrives in moist, fertile soil that drains well, and does best in full sun. Like most trees, bee bee tree plants require regular irrigation for the first year after planting. This is an especially important aspect of bee bee tree care when the weather is dry. After establishment, the mature trees can tolerate some seasonal dryness. You’ll find that bee bee trees do not suffer from many diseases, nor are they attacked by insect pests. In fact, even deer tend not browse bee bee tree plants.
Is Bee Bee Tree Invasive?
The bee bee tree fruit produces many seeds. These seeds can propagate the species far and wide when spread by hungry birds, even naturalizing in the wild. Scientists do not know very much about this tree’s impact on the environment. Given its invasive possibilities in some circumstances, it is called a “watch list species.”
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Aspen trees are a popular addition to landscapes in Canada and the northern parts of the United States. The trees are beautiful with white bark and leaves that turn a striking shade of yellow in the autumn, but they can be finicky in a few different ways. Keep reading to learn more aspen tree information, including how to care for aspen trees in landscapes.
Aspen Tree Information
One problem that many people come up against when growing aspen trees is their short lifespan. And it’s true – aspen trees in landscapes usually only live between 5 and 15 years. This is usually due to pests and diseases, which can be a real problem and sometimes have no treatment. If you notice your aspen becoming sick or infested, the best thing to do is often to cut the offending tree down. Don’t worry, you won’t be killing the tree. Aspens have large underground root systems that continually put up new suckers that will grow into large trunks if they have the space and the sunlight.
In fact, if you see several aspens growing near each other, odds are good that they’re actually all parts of the same organism. These root systems are a fascinating element of the aspen tree. They allow the trees to survive forest fires and other aboveground problems. One aspen tree colony in Utah is thought to be over 80,000 years old. When you’re growing aspen trees in landscapes, however, you probably don’t want a colony that puts up new suckers all the time. The best way to prevent this spread is to surround your tree with a round metal sheet sunk 2 feet into the ground a few feet from the trunk. If your tree does fall to disease or pests, try cutting it down – you should see new suckers very soon.
Common Aspen Tree Varieties
Some of the more common aspen trees in landscapes include the following:
Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
Korean aspen (Populus davidiana)
Common/European aspen (Populus tremula)
Japanese aspen (Populus sieboldii)
Aspen Tree Information
One problem that many people come up against when growing aspen trees is their short lifespan. And it’s true – aspen trees in landscapes usually only live between 5 and 15 years. This is usually due to pests and diseases, which can be a real problem and sometimes have no treatment. If you notice your aspen becoming sick or infested, the best thing to do is often to cut the offending tree down. Don’t worry, you won’t be killing the tree. Aspens have large underground root systems that continually put up new suckers that will grow into large trunks if they have the space and the sunlight.
In fact, if you see several aspens growing near each other, odds are good that they’re actually all parts of the same organism. These root systems are a fascinating element of the aspen tree. They allow the trees to survive forest fires and other aboveground problems. One aspen tree colony in Utah is thought to be over 80,000 years old. When you’re growing aspen trees in landscapes, however, you probably don’t want a colony that puts up new suckers all the time. The best way to prevent this spread is to surround your tree with a round metal sheet sunk 2 feet into the ground a few feet from the trunk. If your tree does fall to disease or pests, try cutting it down – you should see new suckers very soon.
Common Aspen Tree Varieties
Some of the more common aspen trees in landscapes include the following:
Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
Korean aspen (Populus davidiana)
Common/European aspen (Populus tremula)
Japanese aspen (Populus sieboldii)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Arborvitae (Thuja) are one of the most versatile and attractive trees or shrubs found in the landscape. They are useful as hedge material, in pots or as interesting focal points for the garden. Planting an arborvitae hedge provides security and a beautiful screen. This easy to grow evergreen comes in a wide variety of sizes and colors, providing a solution for almost any landscape situation. Follow a few tips on how to grow an arborvitae and you will have a plant with superior growth habit and ease of care.
Arborvitae Growing Conditions
Arborvitae prefer moist, well-drained soil in full sun or even partial shade. Most zones of the United States provide ideal arborvitae growing conditions and they are hardy to USDA Zone 3. Check drainage before planting an arborvitae and add grit to a depth of 8 inches if your soil retains too much moisture. Arborvitae need soil ph levels of 6.0 to 8.0, which should have a good amount of organic material worked in to increase its structure and nutrient levels.
When to Plant Arborvitae
Most evergreen plants, such as arborvitae, are planted when they are not actively growing for best results. Depending where you live, they may be planted in late winter if soils are workable, or you may have to wait until early spring when the earth has thawed. Arborvitae are usually sold balled and burlapped, which means the root system is protected from harsh conditions and allows you to be more lenient on when to plant arborvitae than with bare-root trees. They can also be established in the ground in late fall if the base is covered with a thick layer of bark or organic mulch.
How to Plant Arborvitae Trees
Location and soil condition are the primary concerns regarding how to plant arborvitae trees. These scale-leaved evergreens have a broad, spreading root system, which tends to be near the surface. Dig the hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball to allow roots to spread as the tree becomes established. Water frequently for the first few months and then begin to taper off. Irrigate deeply when you do water and ensure that the plant doesn’t dry out in hot punishing summer weather.
How to Grow Arborvitae
Arborvitate are very tolerant plants that require no pruning and have naturally graceful pyramid shapes. While the plants are prey to few insects, they are prone to spider mite infestations during hot, dry weather. Deep watering and spraying off the foliage can minimize these pests’ presence. Apply a three inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree and fertilize in spring with a good all purpose landscape fertilizer.
Novice gardeners will be particularly rewarded when planting an arborvitae, due to their low maintenance and uncomplaining growth patterns.
Arborvitae Growing Conditions
Arborvitae prefer moist, well-drained soil in full sun or even partial shade. Most zones of the United States provide ideal arborvitae growing conditions and they are hardy to USDA Zone 3. Check drainage before planting an arborvitae and add grit to a depth of 8 inches if your soil retains too much moisture. Arborvitae need soil ph levels of 6.0 to 8.0, which should have a good amount of organic material worked in to increase its structure and nutrient levels.
When to Plant Arborvitae
Most evergreen plants, such as arborvitae, are planted when they are not actively growing for best results. Depending where you live, they may be planted in late winter if soils are workable, or you may have to wait until early spring when the earth has thawed. Arborvitae are usually sold balled and burlapped, which means the root system is protected from harsh conditions and allows you to be more lenient on when to plant arborvitae than with bare-root trees. They can also be established in the ground in late fall if the base is covered with a thick layer of bark or organic mulch.
How to Plant Arborvitae Trees
Location and soil condition are the primary concerns regarding how to plant arborvitae trees. These scale-leaved evergreens have a broad, spreading root system, which tends to be near the surface. Dig the hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball to allow roots to spread as the tree becomes established. Water frequently for the first few months and then begin to taper off. Irrigate deeply when you do water and ensure that the plant doesn’t dry out in hot punishing summer weather.
How to Grow Arborvitae
Arborvitate are very tolerant plants that require no pruning and have naturally graceful pyramid shapes. While the plants are prey to few insects, they are prone to spider mite infestations during hot, dry weather. Deep watering and spraying off the foliage can minimize these pests’ presence. Apply a three inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree and fertilize in spring with a good all purpose landscape fertilizer.
Novice gardeners will be particularly rewarded when planting an arborvitae, due to their low maintenance and uncomplaining growth patterns.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees growing in the wild rely on the soil to provide the nutrients they need to grow. In a backyard environment, trees and shrubs compete for available nutrients and may require fertilizer to keep them healthy. Arborvitae are narrow-leaf evergreen trees with leaves that look like scales. Different arborvitae species grow into different shapes and sizes, making the tree an excellent choice for hedges of any height or specimen plants. Beloved for their fast growth, arborvitae – especially those planted near other trees or in hedges – often require fertilizer to thrive. It isn’t difficult to begin fertilizing arborvitae. Read on to learn how to fertilize an arborvitae and the type of fertilizer for arborvitae.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees can be injured by winter weather. This is especially true for needled trees since the needles stay on the trees all winter. If you have arborvitae in your yard and you live in a cold climate, you have probably seen that they occasionally suffer winter damage. Read on for information about winter injury on arborvitae bushes.
Winter Damage to Arborvitae
Winter injury on arborvitae bushes is not uncommon. Desiccation, or drying out, is one important cause of winter damage to arborvitae. The arborvitae dry out when the needles lose water faster than they can take it up. Arborvitae needles transpire moisture even in winter, and uptake water from the ground to replace the lost moisture. When the ground freezes below the root system, it cuts off the water supply.
Why are My Arborvitae Turning Brown?
Desiccation can lead to arborvitae winter burn. If the foliage is buried under snow, it is protected. But unprotected needles will suffer from winter burn, which turns them brown, gold or even white, particularly on the south, southwest, and windward sides of plants. The actual discoloration, however, can be caused by a number of factors in addition to desiccation and can be fairly dramatic. These include:
strong wind
bright sun
deep, hard frost
biting cold
salt used on sidewalks and roadways
If the winter burn is severe, the entire arborvitae may brown and die. You may notice symptoms as the damage is occurring, but often the burn damage looks even worse later, as temperatures rise in early spring. It’s best not to make any rapid decisions about whether or not you can save the tree. Simply wait for spring and you can easily tell whether the arborvitae is alive.
Arborvitae Winter Care
You can prevent desiccation by watering the ground thoroughly all through the growing season, right up through autumn. Give the shrubs more water on warm days during the winter. Arborvitae winter care also includes a thick layer of mulch to protect roots. Use up to 4 inches.
In addition to mulch, you may need to wrap evergreens in burlap or other material for winter protection if your winters are particularly severe. If you do, don’t wrap too tight or cover the plants too completely. Be sure to give the trees room to breathe and exposure to natural light.
Winter Damage to Arborvitae
Winter injury on arborvitae bushes is not uncommon. Desiccation, or drying out, is one important cause of winter damage to arborvitae. The arborvitae dry out when the needles lose water faster than they can take it up. Arborvitae needles transpire moisture even in winter, and uptake water from the ground to replace the lost moisture. When the ground freezes below the root system, it cuts off the water supply.
Why are My Arborvitae Turning Brown?
Desiccation can lead to arborvitae winter burn. If the foliage is buried under snow, it is protected. But unprotected needles will suffer from winter burn, which turns them brown, gold or even white, particularly on the south, southwest, and windward sides of plants. The actual discoloration, however, can be caused by a number of factors in addition to desiccation and can be fairly dramatic. These include:
strong wind
bright sun
deep, hard frost
biting cold
salt used on sidewalks and roadways
If the winter burn is severe, the entire arborvitae may brown and die. You may notice symptoms as the damage is occurring, but often the burn damage looks even worse later, as temperatures rise in early spring. It’s best not to make any rapid decisions about whether or not you can save the tree. Simply wait for spring and you can easily tell whether the arborvitae is alive.
Arborvitae Winter Care
You can prevent desiccation by watering the ground thoroughly all through the growing season, right up through autumn. Give the shrubs more water on warm days during the winter. Arborvitae winter care also includes a thick layer of mulch to protect roots. Use up to 4 inches.
In addition to mulch, you may need to wrap evergreens in burlap or other material for winter protection if your winters are particularly severe. If you do, don’t wrap too tight or cover the plants too completely. Be sure to give the trees room to breathe and exposure to natural light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Alder trees (Alnus spp.) are often used in reforestation projects and to stabilize soil in wet areas, but you seldom see them in residential landscapes. Nurseries that cater to home gardeners rarely offer them for sale, but when you can find them, these handsome plants make excellent shade trees and screening shrubs. Alders have several distinctive features that keep them interesting throughout the year.
Alder Tree Identification
The easiest way of recognizing an alder tree is by its distinctive little fruiting body, called a strobile. They appear in fall and look like 1-inch long cones. Strobiles remain on the tree until the following spring, and the small, nutlike seeds they contain supply winter food for birds and small mammals.
The female flowers on an alder tree stand upright at the ends of the twigs, while the male catkins are longer and hang down. The catkins persist into winter. Once the leaves are gone, they add subtle grace and beauty to the tree, softening the appearance of the bare branches. Leaves provide another method of alder tree identification. The egg-shaped leaves have serrated edges and distinct veins. A central vein runs down the center of the leaf and a series of side veins run from the central vein to the outer edge, angled toward the leaf tip. The foliage remains green until it drops from the tree in fall.
Additional Information About Alder Trees
The different types of alder trees include tall trees with single trunks and much shorter, multi-stemmed specimens that can be grown as shrubs. Tree types grow 40 to 80 feet tall and include the red and white alders. You can distinguish these two trees by their leaves. The leaves on a red alder are tightly rolled under along the edges, while those on a white alder are more flat. Sitka and thinleaf alders reach heights of no more than 25 feet. They can be grown as large shrubs or small trees. Both have multiple stems arising from the roots and you can tell them apart by their leaves. Sitkas have very fine serations along the edges of the leaves, while thinleaf alders have coarse teeth.
Alder trees can extract and use nitrogen from the air in the same way that legumes, such as beans and peas, do. Since they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer, they are ideal for areas that aren’t regularly maintained. Alders are well-suited to wet sites, but abundant moisture isn’t necessary for their survival, and they can also thrive in areas that experience occasional mild to moderate drought.
Alder Tree Identification
The easiest way of recognizing an alder tree is by its distinctive little fruiting body, called a strobile. They appear in fall and look like 1-inch long cones. Strobiles remain on the tree until the following spring, and the small, nutlike seeds they contain supply winter food for birds and small mammals.
The female flowers on an alder tree stand upright at the ends of the twigs, while the male catkins are longer and hang down. The catkins persist into winter. Once the leaves are gone, they add subtle grace and beauty to the tree, softening the appearance of the bare branches. Leaves provide another method of alder tree identification. The egg-shaped leaves have serrated edges and distinct veins. A central vein runs down the center of the leaf and a series of side veins run from the central vein to the outer edge, angled toward the leaf tip. The foliage remains green until it drops from the tree in fall.
Additional Information About Alder Trees
The different types of alder trees include tall trees with single trunks and much shorter, multi-stemmed specimens that can be grown as shrubs. Tree types grow 40 to 80 feet tall and include the red and white alders. You can distinguish these two trees by their leaves. The leaves on a red alder are tightly rolled under along the edges, while those on a white alder are more flat. Sitka and thinleaf alders reach heights of no more than 25 feet. They can be grown as large shrubs or small trees. Both have multiple stems arising from the roots and you can tell them apart by their leaves. Sitkas have very fine serations along the edges of the leaves, while thinleaf alders have coarse teeth.
Alder trees can extract and use nitrogen from the air in the same way that legumes, such as beans and peas, do. Since they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer, they are ideal for areas that aren’t regularly maintained. Alders are well-suited to wet sites, but abundant moisture isn’t necessary for their survival, and they can also thrive in areas that experience occasional mild to moderate drought.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Black alder trees (Alnus glutinosa) are fast-growing, water-loving, highly adaptable, deciduous trees that hail from Europe. These trees have many uses in the home landscape and a number of qualities that make them highly attractive. Read on to learn more.
Black Alder Tree Info
There are many black alder facts that should be of interest to homeowners and landscapers. They grow to 50’ tall and have a pyramidal shape. They can take waterlogged soils and somewhat dry conditions. They have appealing glossy leaves. Their smooth grey bark is especially attractive in winter when it stands out against the snow. There are many uses for black alder trees. The trees have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air and increase soil fertility through their root nodules. Alder trees are valuable in landscape restoration projects where the soil is degraded. Black alders in the landscape are terrific habitat trees. They provide food for butterflies, mice, turtles, birds and deer.
Planting Black Alder in the Landscape
So where do black alder trees grow? They grow especially well in moist soils, by waterways and in boggy woodlands in the Midwest and on the East Coast. But be careful when you put black alder in the landscape. The trees spread readily and are considered invasive in some states. Be sure to check with your local nursery or university extension before you plant black alder in the landscape. They are so vigorous that their aggressive roots can lift sidewalks and invade sewer lines.
Black Alder Tree Info
There are many black alder facts that should be of interest to homeowners and landscapers. They grow to 50’ tall and have a pyramidal shape. They can take waterlogged soils and somewhat dry conditions. They have appealing glossy leaves. Their smooth grey bark is especially attractive in winter when it stands out against the snow. There are many uses for black alder trees. The trees have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air and increase soil fertility through their root nodules. Alder trees are valuable in landscape restoration projects where the soil is degraded. Black alders in the landscape are terrific habitat trees. They provide food for butterflies, mice, turtles, birds and deer.
Planting Black Alder in the Landscape
So where do black alder trees grow? They grow especially well in moist soils, by waterways and in boggy woodlands in the Midwest and on the East Coast. But be careful when you put black alder in the landscape. The trees spread readily and are considered invasive in some states. Be sure to check with your local nursery or university extension before you plant black alder in the landscape. They are so vigorous that their aggressive roots can lift sidewalks and invade sewer lines.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees need special pruning that begins while the tree is young. Proper pruning helps establish a graceful growth pattern and prevents damage as the tree grows. Let’s find out how to prune a willow tree.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees (Salix spp.) are fast-growing beauties that make attractive, graceful ornamentals in a big backyard. In the wild, willows often grow by lakes, rivers or other bodies of water. Although willows are not sickly trees, a few diseases and pest infestations do attack and cause willow tree problems. If willow tree bark is falling off, you may need to take action.
Common Willow Tree Problems
Willows are not picky trees and most thrive in almost any kind of soil as long as there is adequate sunlight. They grow best in sites with full sun. However, the tree is vulnerable to several diseases and pests, including a few that cause willow tree bark peeling.
A few of the most serious willow tree problems do not cause peeling willow bark. These include infestation by gypsy moth caterpillars, willow leaf beetles and bagworms that will defoliate the tree.
The worst willow diseases include:
Crown gall, which causes stunting and dieback Willow scab, which causes olive green spore masses along the underside of leaves Blank canker, causing dark brown spots on the tree’s leaves. These are not your tree’s problem if your willow tree bark is falling off.
Reasons for Peeling Bark on Willows
Peeling willow bark can be caused by insects. If your willow tree bark is falling off, it could be a sign of borer insects. Both poplar and willow borers can tunnel through the inner layer of the willow bark. This causes peeling bark on willows. Your best bet if your willow tree has borers is to clip out all diseased branches. Then you can spray the willow tree with permethrin to kill borers. Another possible reason for willow tree bark peeling is too much sun. Willows most often get sunscald in winter when sun reflects off bright snow. The sunlight heats the tree bark, causing the tree cells to become active. But as soon as the temperatures plunge, the cells freeze and rupture.
If your willows have yellow or red patches on the tree trunk, this may be the result of sunscald. Those spots can also crack and peel as time passes. The tree will heal from sunscald, but you can protect your wills by acting before winter. Paint the trunks with diluted, white paint in early winter to prevent sunscald.
Common Willow Tree Problems
Willows are not picky trees and most thrive in almost any kind of soil as long as there is adequate sunlight. They grow best in sites with full sun. However, the tree is vulnerable to several diseases and pests, including a few that cause willow tree bark peeling.
A few of the most serious willow tree problems do not cause peeling willow bark. These include infestation by gypsy moth caterpillars, willow leaf beetles and bagworms that will defoliate the tree.
The worst willow diseases include:
Crown gall, which causes stunting and dieback Willow scab, which causes olive green spore masses along the underside of leaves Blank canker, causing dark brown spots on the tree’s leaves. These are not your tree’s problem if your willow tree bark is falling off.
Reasons for Peeling Bark on Willows
Peeling willow bark can be caused by insects. If your willow tree bark is falling off, it could be a sign of borer insects. Both poplar and willow borers can tunnel through the inner layer of the willow bark. This causes peeling bark on willows. Your best bet if your willow tree has borers is to clip out all diseased branches. Then you can spray the willow tree with permethrin to kill borers. Another possible reason for willow tree bark peeling is too much sun. Willows most often get sunscald in winter when sun reflects off bright snow. The sunlight heats the tree bark, causing the tree cells to become active. But as soon as the temperatures plunge, the cells freeze and rupture.
If your willows have yellow or red patches on the tree trunk, this may be the result of sunscald. Those spots can also crack and peel as time passes. The tree will heal from sunscald, but you can protect your wills by acting before winter. Paint the trunks with diluted, white paint in early winter to prevent sunscald.
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