文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
When you think of Florida, you immediately think of palm trees. However, not all palm species do well in colder regions of the state where temperatures may dip down to 5 F. (-15 C.). Pindo palm trees (Butia capitata) are one type of palm that will tolerate cooler temperatures and can even be found along the East Coast up to the Carolinas. Let’s find out how to care for a pindo palm.
Hardy Pindo Info
Pindo palms, also known as jelly palms, grow slowly to a mature height of 15-20 feet with a trunk diameter of 1 to 1 1/2 feet. Flowers can be red, white or yellow and occur in groups of two male flowers and one female flower. The fruit of this graceful palm is light orange to brownish red and can be used to make jelly. The seeds can even be roasted for a coffee substitute. Pindo palms are often used as a specimen tree and draw a variety of wildlife with their sweet fruit.
Growing Pindo Palm Trees
Pindo palms will grow in full sun or partial shade and any type of soil as long as it is moderately salt tolerant and has good drainage. Falling fruit can make a mess, so it is recommended that pindo palms be planted at least ten feet from decks, patios or paved surfaces. Since these trees grow so slowly, it is best to buy at least a three-year-old nursery stock tree unless you are extremely patient.
How to Care of a Pindo Palm
Pindo palm care is not difficult at all. There are no diseases or insect problems with this tree, other than the odd micro-nutrient deficiency. Regular fertilization will help keep the pindo palm looking its best. Pindo palms are able to survive hot and windy conditions, but it is always best to keep the soil adequately moist. This Brazil native requires some pruning of dead fronds to keep its appearance tidy.
Hardy Pindo Info
Pindo palms, also known as jelly palms, grow slowly to a mature height of 15-20 feet with a trunk diameter of 1 to 1 1/2 feet. Flowers can be red, white or yellow and occur in groups of two male flowers and one female flower. The fruit of this graceful palm is light orange to brownish red and can be used to make jelly. The seeds can even be roasted for a coffee substitute. Pindo palms are often used as a specimen tree and draw a variety of wildlife with their sweet fruit.
Growing Pindo Palm Trees
Pindo palms will grow in full sun or partial shade and any type of soil as long as it is moderately salt tolerant and has good drainage. Falling fruit can make a mess, so it is recommended that pindo palms be planted at least ten feet from decks, patios or paved surfaces. Since these trees grow so slowly, it is best to buy at least a three-year-old nursery stock tree unless you are extremely patient.
How to Care of a Pindo Palm
Pindo palm care is not difficult at all. There are no diseases or insect problems with this tree, other than the odd micro-nutrient deficiency. Regular fertilization will help keep the pindo palm looking its best. Pindo palms are able to survive hot and windy conditions, but it is always best to keep the soil adequately moist. This Brazil native requires some pruning of dead fronds to keep its appearance tidy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The pindo palm (Butia capitata) is a thick, slow growing palm tree that is popular in zones 8 through 11, where it’s winter hardy. Palm trees come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and species, and it’s not always clear how much each tree needs to be pruned, if at all. Keep reading to learn more about how and when to prune a pindo palm tree.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Palm trees don’t just make an appearance in Hollywood. Different varieties can be grown around the United States, even places where snow is a regular winter feature. Snow and freezing temps aren’t exactly a palm trees milieu, so what kind of winter protection must you provide for palms?
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Small palm trees are an excellent and versatile addition to a yard. Miniature palm trees are generally defined as being under 20 feet tall, which in terms of palms is really quite short. Within this category there are two types of palm trees: small tree and bushy. Each has its own uses and comes in many varieties. Read on to learn more about these types of palm trees.
Low Growing Palm Trees
Small palm trees that grow up from a single trunk are excellent for front yard garden beds because they have such small root balls. You can plant small palm trees close to your house and avoid the damage to your foundation another tree’s roots might cause, while adding an interesting extra level of height to your landscape.
So what are some short height palm trees? The following palms all reach heights under 12 feet at maturity:
Pygmy Date Palm
Bottle Palm Sago Palm
Spindle Palm
Parlor Palm
Palms that grow between 15 and 25 feet include:
Christmas Palm
Pindo or Jelly Palm
Florida Thatch Palm
Bushy Types of Palm Trees
Many palm trees feature underground trunks or low-to-the-ground clustering branches that give them the appearance of a bush and make them excellent ground cover or property dividers. The Serenoa repens palm has a trunk that grows horizontally with dense leaves that give it a bush-like appearance. It usually reaches heights of 6 feet. The Sabal minor grows in the same way but gets no taller than 5 feet. The Chinese needle and dwarf palmetto are both short, slow-growing groundcover palms with fanning leaves.
Coontie palms reach only 3-5 feet in height and take on the appearance of small, manageable bushes. The Cardboard Palm is a close relative with many small, broad leaves and a nearly unnoticeable trunk. Now that you know a little more about low growing palm trees, take advantage of their short features and add one or two to your landscape.
Low Growing Palm Trees
Small palm trees that grow up from a single trunk are excellent for front yard garden beds because they have such small root balls. You can plant small palm trees close to your house and avoid the damage to your foundation another tree’s roots might cause, while adding an interesting extra level of height to your landscape.
So what are some short height palm trees? The following palms all reach heights under 12 feet at maturity:
Pygmy Date Palm
Bottle Palm Sago Palm
Spindle Palm
Parlor Palm
Palms that grow between 15 and 25 feet include:
Christmas Palm
Pindo or Jelly Palm
Florida Thatch Palm
Bushy Types of Palm Trees
Many palm trees feature underground trunks or low-to-the-ground clustering branches that give them the appearance of a bush and make them excellent ground cover or property dividers. The Serenoa repens palm has a trunk that grows horizontally with dense leaves that give it a bush-like appearance. It usually reaches heights of 6 feet. The Sabal minor grows in the same way but gets no taller than 5 feet. The Chinese needle and dwarf palmetto are both short, slow-growing groundcover palms with fanning leaves.
Coontie palms reach only 3-5 feet in height and take on the appearance of small, manageable bushes. The Cardboard Palm is a close relative with many small, broad leaves and a nearly unnoticeable trunk. Now that you know a little more about low growing palm trees, take advantage of their short features and add one or two to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
If you’re looking for sun loving palm trees, you’re in luck because the selection is huge and there is no shortage of full sun palm trees, including those well suited for containers. Palms are versatile plants and many varieties prefer filtered light, while a few even tolerate shade. However, potted palms for full sun are easy to find for nearly every environment under the sun. If you have a sunny spot, you can even try growing palm trees in container. Be sure to check the cold tolerance because palm tree hardiness varies widely.
Growing Palm Trees in Containers
Here are some of the more popular palm trees for pots in sun:
Adonidia (Adonidia merrillii) – Also known as Manila palm or Christmas palm, Adonidia is one of the most popular potted palms for full sun. Adonidia is available in a double variety, which reaches about 15 feet, and a triple variety, which tops out at 15 to 25 feet. Both do well in large containers. It is a warm weather palm suitable for growing where temps don’t fall below 32 degrees F. (0 C.). Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis) – Also known as fountain palm, Chinese fan palm is a slow-growing palm with a graceful, weeping appearance. At a mature height of about 25 feet, Chinese fan palm works well in large pots. This is a hardier palm that tolerates temps down to about 15 degrees F. (-9 C.).
Bismarck Palm (Bismarcka nobilis) – This highly sought after, warm weather palm thrives in heat and full sun, but won’t tolerate temperatures below about 28 F. (-2 C.). Although Bismarck palm grows to heights of 10 to 30 feet, growth is slower and more manageable in a container. Silver Saw Palmetto (Acoelorrhape wrightii) – Also known as Everglades palm or Paurotis Palm, Silver saw palmetto is a medium sized, full sun palm tree that prefers plenty of moisture. It is a great container plant and will be happy in a big pot for several years. Silver saw palmetto is hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.).
Pindo Palm (Butia capitatia) – Pindo palm is a bushy palm that can eventually reach heights of 20 feet. This popular tree thrives in full sun or partial shade, and when fully mature, can tolerate temps as chilly as 5 to 10 degrees F. (-10 to -12 C.).
Growing Palm Trees in Containers
Here are some of the more popular palm trees for pots in sun:
Adonidia (Adonidia merrillii) – Also known as Manila palm or Christmas palm, Adonidia is one of the most popular potted palms for full sun. Adonidia is available in a double variety, which reaches about 15 feet, and a triple variety, which tops out at 15 to 25 feet. Both do well in large containers. It is a warm weather palm suitable for growing where temps don’t fall below 32 degrees F. (0 C.). Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis) – Also known as fountain palm, Chinese fan palm is a slow-growing palm with a graceful, weeping appearance. At a mature height of about 25 feet, Chinese fan palm works well in large pots. This is a hardier palm that tolerates temps down to about 15 degrees F. (-9 C.).
Bismarck Palm (Bismarcka nobilis) – This highly sought after, warm weather palm thrives in heat and full sun, but won’t tolerate temperatures below about 28 F. (-2 C.). Although Bismarck palm grows to heights of 10 to 30 feet, growth is slower and more manageable in a container. Silver Saw Palmetto (Acoelorrhape wrightii) – Also known as Everglades palm or Paurotis Palm, Silver saw palmetto is a medium sized, full sun palm tree that prefers plenty of moisture. It is a great container plant and will be happy in a big pot for several years. Silver saw palmetto is hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.).
Pindo Palm (Butia capitatia) – Pindo palm is a bushy palm that can eventually reach heights of 20 feet. This popular tree thrives in full sun or partial shade, and when fully mature, can tolerate temps as chilly as 5 to 10 degrees F. (-10 to -12 C.).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Ganodera palm disease, also called ganoderma butt rot, is a white rot fungus that causes palm tree trunk diseases. It can kill palm trees. Ganoderma is caused by the pathogen Ganoderma zonatum, and any palm tree can come down with it. However, little is known about the environmental conditions that encourage the condition. Read on for information about ganoderma in palms and good ways of dealing with ganoderma butt rot.
Ganoderma in Palms
Fungi, like plants, are divided into genera. The fungal genus Ganoderma contains different wood-decaying fungi found around the world on almost any type of wood, including hard wood, soft wood and palms. These fungi can result in ganoderma palm disease or other palm tree trunk diseases.
The first sign you are likely to have when ganoderma palm disease has infected your palm is the conk or basidiocarp that forms on the side of a palm trunk or stump. It appears as a soft, but solid, white mass in a circular shape lying flat against the tree.
As the conk matures, it grows into a shape that resembles a little, half-moon-shaped shelf and it turns partially gold. As it gets old, it darkens even more into brown shades, and even the base of the shelf is no longer white. The conks produce spores that experts believe are the primary means of spreading this ganoderma in palms. It is also possible, however, that pathogens found in the soil are capable of spreading this and other palm tree trunk diseases.
Ganoderma Palm Disease
Ganoderma zonatum produces enzymes that cause the ganoderma palm disease. They rot or degrade woody tissue in the lower five feet of the palm trunk. In addition to the conks, you may see a general wilting of all of the leaves in the palm other than the spear leaf. The tree growth slows and the palm fronds turn off color. Scientists cannot say, as yet, how long it takes before a tree infected with Ganoderma zanatum produces a conk. However, until a conk appears, it is not possible to diagnose a palm as having ganoderma palm disease. That means that when you plant a palm in your yard, there is no way for you to be sure that it is not already infected by the fungus.
No pattern of cultural practices has been associated with the development of this disease. Since the fungi only appears on the lower segment of the trunk, it is not related to improper pruning of the fronds. At this time, the best recommendation is to watch for signs of ganoderma in palms and remove a palm if conks appear on it.
Ganoderma in Palms
Fungi, like plants, are divided into genera. The fungal genus Ganoderma contains different wood-decaying fungi found around the world on almost any type of wood, including hard wood, soft wood and palms. These fungi can result in ganoderma palm disease or other palm tree trunk diseases.
The first sign you are likely to have when ganoderma palm disease has infected your palm is the conk or basidiocarp that forms on the side of a palm trunk or stump. It appears as a soft, but solid, white mass in a circular shape lying flat against the tree.
As the conk matures, it grows into a shape that resembles a little, half-moon-shaped shelf and it turns partially gold. As it gets old, it darkens even more into brown shades, and even the base of the shelf is no longer white. The conks produce spores that experts believe are the primary means of spreading this ganoderma in palms. It is also possible, however, that pathogens found in the soil are capable of spreading this and other palm tree trunk diseases.
Ganoderma Palm Disease
Ganoderma zonatum produces enzymes that cause the ganoderma palm disease. They rot or degrade woody tissue in the lower five feet of the palm trunk. In addition to the conks, you may see a general wilting of all of the leaves in the palm other than the spear leaf. The tree growth slows and the palm fronds turn off color. Scientists cannot say, as yet, how long it takes before a tree infected with Ganoderma zanatum produces a conk. However, until a conk appears, it is not possible to diagnose a palm as having ganoderma palm disease. That means that when you plant a palm in your yard, there is no way for you to be sure that it is not already infected by the fungus.
No pattern of cultural practices has been associated with the development of this disease. Since the fungi only appears on the lower segment of the trunk, it is not related to improper pruning of the fronds. At this time, the best recommendation is to watch for signs of ganoderma in palms and remove a palm if conks appear on it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Fusarium wilt is a common disease of ornamental trees and shrubs. Palm tree Fusarium wilt comes in different forms but is recognizable by similar symptoms. Fusarium wilt in palm trees is host specific and has no cure. The end result in untreated palms is death. Learn how to treat Fusarium wilt in palms with a careful management program. If nothing else, careful hygiene and cultural practices can extend the life of the tree.
Causes of Palm Tree Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum. The two main strains are Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Canariensis, which only attacks Canary palms, and Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Palmarum, which is found in several ornamental palms.
The disease does the most damage in plants that are in dry regions. Plants growing in cooler, wetter areas will still show symptoms but decline and die more slowly. As a rule, plants with Fusarium wilt of palms should be removed but this is a big chore in some cases. There is no Fusarium wilt treatment for palms and the disease is contagious and can infect other plants nearby.
The fungus responsible for Fusarium wilt in palm trees can persist in soil for years. Spores enter plants through the roots and travel into the vascular system. Fusarium attacks the xylem, reducing water uptake. Over time it closes up the water collecting tissue with a sticky substance that the fungus produces. Gradually, the tree will show signs of stress due to inadequate water. The pathogen can also spread through mechanical means. The most common ways plants are infected is from contaminated purchased trees and from unsanitary pruning practices. Tools with the pathogen on them can introduce it during cutting. It is, therefore, extremely important to sanitize tools before using them on another plant.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt of Palms
Because water introduction is interrupted, the fronds or leaves of the tree are the first to display signs of infection. Just as any plant’s leaves will droop and discolor when there is too little moisture, the fronds will turn yellow and finally brown, crinkle at the ends of leaflets and eventually die. The effect usually starts at the lower or older fronds and moves up the palm. A companion disease, called pink rot, hastens the dying process in many cases. It is an opportunistic fungus which only attacks old, weak or injured plants. Fusarium wilt treatment for palms must, therefore, start with an application of Thiophanate-methyl fungicide to stem the march of pink rot.
How to Treat Fusarium Wilt
Because there is no cure for the disease, the only course of action is careful management of the tree, unless you elect to remove it entirely. Provide supplemental water and clean up infected debris immediately. Do not try to compost infected material, as spores can still survive and infest your compost heap. Prune off dying fronds but disinfect tools before using them on other plants. Do not use a chainsaw and trim on a windless day to prevent infected sawdust from drifting over to healthy specimens.
Hygiene is one of the most important facets of Fusarium wilt treatment for palms. Good water and nutrient sources for the tree can prolong its life for several years.
Causes of Palm Tree Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum. The two main strains are Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Canariensis, which only attacks Canary palms, and Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Palmarum, which is found in several ornamental palms.
The disease does the most damage in plants that are in dry regions. Plants growing in cooler, wetter areas will still show symptoms but decline and die more slowly. As a rule, plants with Fusarium wilt of palms should be removed but this is a big chore in some cases. There is no Fusarium wilt treatment for palms and the disease is contagious and can infect other plants nearby.
The fungus responsible for Fusarium wilt in palm trees can persist in soil for years. Spores enter plants through the roots and travel into the vascular system. Fusarium attacks the xylem, reducing water uptake. Over time it closes up the water collecting tissue with a sticky substance that the fungus produces. Gradually, the tree will show signs of stress due to inadequate water. The pathogen can also spread through mechanical means. The most common ways plants are infected is from contaminated purchased trees and from unsanitary pruning practices. Tools with the pathogen on them can introduce it during cutting. It is, therefore, extremely important to sanitize tools before using them on another plant.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt of Palms
Because water introduction is interrupted, the fronds or leaves of the tree are the first to display signs of infection. Just as any plant’s leaves will droop and discolor when there is too little moisture, the fronds will turn yellow and finally brown, crinkle at the ends of leaflets and eventually die. The effect usually starts at the lower or older fronds and moves up the palm. A companion disease, called pink rot, hastens the dying process in many cases. It is an opportunistic fungus which only attacks old, weak or injured plants. Fusarium wilt treatment for palms must, therefore, start with an application of Thiophanate-methyl fungicide to stem the march of pink rot.
How to Treat Fusarium Wilt
Because there is no cure for the disease, the only course of action is careful management of the tree, unless you elect to remove it entirely. Provide supplemental water and clean up infected debris immediately. Do not try to compost infected material, as spores can still survive and infest your compost heap. Prune off dying fronds but disinfect tools before using them on other plants. Do not use a chainsaw and trim on a windless day to prevent infected sawdust from drifting over to healthy specimens.
Hygiene is one of the most important facets of Fusarium wilt treatment for palms. Good water and nutrient sources for the tree can prolong its life for several years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Palm trees are quite hardy in their native ranges but problems can arise when these transplants are sited in regions that aren’t specifically adapted to their needs. Palms that live in areas with violent storms, cold snaps and even excessively wet winters can be prey to leaf loss. There are innumerable reasons for palm tree fronds falling off, from natural “cleaning” to damaging cultivation, disease and pest issues. If there are no fronds on palm tree, the plant may be in real trouble but it is possible to still save it.
Can You Save a Palm Tree Without Fronds?
Palms are notable for their air of tropical elegance and ability to conjure up warm trade winds and sandy beaches. In areas with hurricanes, it is common to find sickly looking trees which require special care to resurrect.
Reviving dying palm trees may take expert assistance depending upon the level of damage sustained by the plant. In cases where just some of the foliage has been killed, a palm has a good chance at thriving after a good rest and some excellent care. First, you should discover why you have palm tree fronds falling off and nip the cause in the bud.
Self-Cleaning Palms
Many palms, such as Washington palms, naturally replace their leaves. The Washington palm forms a skirt with its old leaves while others, such as Foxtail palms, will dispose of dead leaves. If you have a self-cleaning plant, it will naturally replace old fronds with new ones. The large old leaves littering the ground may worry you, but it is a natural process and as long as the tree has a full crown of foliage, nothing to stress about. Every species of palm has a certain number of fronds it will produce in maturity. As new fronds form, old ones fall off. The balance of the perfect number of fronds is essential to the plant’s appearance and health. A palm tree dropping fronds and not replacing them could be a sign of a problem.
Storm Damage, Cold Injuries, Pests and Disease
Not all palms are tropical. Some are suited for desert settings, while others have remarkable cold tolerance. If you find palm tree fronds falling off after a heavy weather event, it is likely due to the fact that you do not have a hardy palm tree. Cold injured plants can lose all their leaves. Additionally, wild winds (such as those in a hurricane) can tatter, shred and kill palm leaves. It is a good idea in hurricane prone areas to leave the old skirt of dead leaves to protect the trunk and crown of the plant. Pests can cause damage to fronds. Scale insects are a classic problem. Their sucking feeding activity reduces the tree’s sap and can diminish health. A palm tree dropping fronds is the result in heavy infestations. Diseases, such as root rot, affect the entire tree’s health with leaf loss the number one symptom. It is best to call in a professional if a disease is suspected.
Reviving Dying Palm Trees
With winter injured trees, wait until the weather warms before removing dead leaves. These will help protect the tree during the remaining cold months. As long as new leaves start to form after winter, the plant can survive but will need to be watched for any additional stresses. When no fronds on palm trees are forming, start to get concerned. Without leaves, the plant cannot gather solar energy to turn into carbohydrates for fuel. Be judicious about your pruning. Most palms don’t need severe pruning and removing leaves for the sake of beauty can actually be the cruelest cut of all regarding plant vitality.
Use a good palm fertilizer in spring and give the tree deep infrequent watering to enhance its health. One thing to note about damaged palms – if the core of the plant is mushy or heavily damaged, the plant is probably on its way out. Be patient with any foliar loss. Over time the plant may regain its health and grow a new crown of foliage.
Can You Save a Palm Tree Without Fronds?
Palms are notable for their air of tropical elegance and ability to conjure up warm trade winds and sandy beaches. In areas with hurricanes, it is common to find sickly looking trees which require special care to resurrect.
Reviving dying palm trees may take expert assistance depending upon the level of damage sustained by the plant. In cases where just some of the foliage has been killed, a palm has a good chance at thriving after a good rest and some excellent care. First, you should discover why you have palm tree fronds falling off and nip the cause in the bud.
Self-Cleaning Palms
Many palms, such as Washington palms, naturally replace their leaves. The Washington palm forms a skirt with its old leaves while others, such as Foxtail palms, will dispose of dead leaves. If you have a self-cleaning plant, it will naturally replace old fronds with new ones. The large old leaves littering the ground may worry you, but it is a natural process and as long as the tree has a full crown of foliage, nothing to stress about. Every species of palm has a certain number of fronds it will produce in maturity. As new fronds form, old ones fall off. The balance of the perfect number of fronds is essential to the plant’s appearance and health. A palm tree dropping fronds and not replacing them could be a sign of a problem.
Storm Damage, Cold Injuries, Pests and Disease
Not all palms are tropical. Some are suited for desert settings, while others have remarkable cold tolerance. If you find palm tree fronds falling off after a heavy weather event, it is likely due to the fact that you do not have a hardy palm tree. Cold injured plants can lose all their leaves. Additionally, wild winds (such as those in a hurricane) can tatter, shred and kill palm leaves. It is a good idea in hurricane prone areas to leave the old skirt of dead leaves to protect the trunk and crown of the plant. Pests can cause damage to fronds. Scale insects are a classic problem. Their sucking feeding activity reduces the tree’s sap and can diminish health. A palm tree dropping fronds is the result in heavy infestations. Diseases, such as root rot, affect the entire tree’s health with leaf loss the number one symptom. It is best to call in a professional if a disease is suspected.
Reviving Dying Palm Trees
With winter injured trees, wait until the weather warms before removing dead leaves. These will help protect the tree during the remaining cold months. As long as new leaves start to form after winter, the plant can survive but will need to be watched for any additional stresses. When no fronds on palm trees are forming, start to get concerned. Without leaves, the plant cannot gather solar energy to turn into carbohydrates for fuel. Be judicious about your pruning. Most palms don’t need severe pruning and removing leaves for the sake of beauty can actually be the cruelest cut of all regarding plant vitality.
Use a good palm fertilizer in spring and give the tree deep infrequent watering to enhance its health. One thing to note about damaged palms – if the core of the plant is mushy or heavily damaged, the plant is probably on its way out. Be patient with any foliar loss. Over time the plant may regain its health and grow a new crown of foliage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Few things evoke the tropics like a palm tree. Growing palm trees outdoors in northern climates can be challenging due to their frost intolerance but some, like cabbage palm and Chinese fan palms, will survive temperatures to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 C.) when mature. Warm climates get their pick of palm tree choices. No matter where you have the plant, knowledge on how to take care of palm trees will help you have a healthy specimen standing proudly in your garden.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The Osage orange tree is an unusual tree. Its fruit are wrinkled green balls the size of grapefruit. On the other hand, the trees’ yellow wood is strong and flexible, and so dense that it is immune to termites. Growing an Osage orange tree is fast and easy. Read on for information about Osage orange trees.
What is Osage Orange?
Many people have never heard of this tree. If you mention it, expect questions like: “What is Osage orange?”
The Osage orange tree (Maclura pomifera) is no kin to the citrus, but the fruit has a faint orangey fragrance strong enough to result in the common name. Its odd shape and color have given it many nicknames, including green brains and hedge apple. The tree also bears long, tough thorns, sharp as steel and can bust tires. These make it a top choice as a defensive hedge. For years, these trees were used for hedges throughout the eastern half of the nation. Farmers planted the tough little trees in tight rows and pruned them well to keep them bushy.
The invention of barbed wire put an end to living Osage hedges, but the wood continued being used for fence posts. It contains tetrahydroxystilbene, an anti-fungicide that may deter insects. Perhaps this chemical is what gives the dense wood its resistance to rot. It’s an excellent wood for fence posts and ship masts. If you are interested in growing an Osage orange tree in a hedge, it will likely stay under 20 feet tall, but in the wild, trees can grow much taller. The trunk grows to several feet in diameter.
Osage Orange Growing Conditions
Growing an Osage orange trees is not difficult since the trees grow readily from both seeds and cuttings. Separating the seeds can be a challenge. It is easiest if you wait for fruit to fall to the ground and freeze in winter, since the cold temperatures facilitate seed-removal. Start growing Osage orange trees by planting individual seeds in pots indoors. Don’t start them outside unless you know exactly where you want them to stand in the garden. These trees are not easy to transplant from one place to another outside.
Osage are tough native trees and are not picky about growing conditions. This makes the care of Osage orange trees easy. Well-drained soil, adequate irrigation and a sunny location helps the tree grow rapidly and stay healthy. If all this information about Osage orange trees makes you want to start growing one, the squirrels will thank you. Osage orange seeds are a favorite squirrel snack.
What is Osage Orange?
Many people have never heard of this tree. If you mention it, expect questions like: “What is Osage orange?”
The Osage orange tree (Maclura pomifera) is no kin to the citrus, but the fruit has a faint orangey fragrance strong enough to result in the common name. Its odd shape and color have given it many nicknames, including green brains and hedge apple. The tree also bears long, tough thorns, sharp as steel and can bust tires. These make it a top choice as a defensive hedge. For years, these trees were used for hedges throughout the eastern half of the nation. Farmers planted the tough little trees in tight rows and pruned them well to keep them bushy.
The invention of barbed wire put an end to living Osage hedges, but the wood continued being used for fence posts. It contains tetrahydroxystilbene, an anti-fungicide that may deter insects. Perhaps this chemical is what gives the dense wood its resistance to rot. It’s an excellent wood for fence posts and ship masts. If you are interested in growing an Osage orange tree in a hedge, it will likely stay under 20 feet tall, but in the wild, trees can grow much taller. The trunk grows to several feet in diameter.
Osage Orange Growing Conditions
Growing an Osage orange trees is not difficult since the trees grow readily from both seeds and cuttings. Separating the seeds can be a challenge. It is easiest if you wait for fruit to fall to the ground and freeze in winter, since the cold temperatures facilitate seed-removal. Start growing Osage orange trees by planting individual seeds in pots indoors. Don’t start them outside unless you know exactly where you want them to stand in the garden. These trees are not easy to transplant from one place to another outside.
Osage are tough native trees and are not picky about growing conditions. This makes the care of Osage orange trees easy. Well-drained soil, adequate irrigation and a sunny location helps the tree grow rapidly and stay healthy. If all this information about Osage orange trees makes you want to start growing one, the squirrels will thank you. Osage orange seeds are a favorite squirrel snack.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
One of the best times to visit the nation’s capital is in the spring when boulevards and avenues are accented by a profusion of flowering ornamental cherry trees. Several types of flowering cherry trees grace the grounds but the first planted in Washington, D.C. was the Yoshino cherry, a gift from the mayor of Tokyo. Interested in growing ornamental cherries? Read on to find out about different types of flowering cherry and flowering cherry tree care.
What are Flowering Cherry Trees?
Ornamental cherries are flowering cherry trees that are closely related to orchard cherry trees but are not grown for their fruit. Rather, ornamental cherries are grown for their ornamental properties, particularly their springtime floral displays. Ornamental or flowering cherry refers to several species of Prunus trees along with their cultivars. Most of these Prunus species hail from Japan.
Although some types of flowering cherry produce fruit, it is usually too tart for human consumption. That doesn’t apply to birds, however! Many birds such as robins, cardinals and waxwings find the tangy fruit very much to their liking.
Many ornamental cherries are notable not only for their gorgeous spring blooms but also for their wonderful fall color with foliage that turns red, purple or even orange. Growing Ornamental Cherries Ornamental cherry trees can be grown in USDA zones 5-8 or 5-9 in the West. Trees should be planted in full sun in well-draining soil and protected from strong winds. When choosing a tree, be sure to select one that is recommended for your zone and consider the eventual height and breadth of the tree at maturity. Ornamental cherries get from between 20-30 feet in height and live from between 25-50 years. Flowering cherries do well in most any soil type or pH provided the soil is well-draining and moist. Plant flowering cherries in the early fall.
Flowering Cherry Tree
Care Flowering cherries do very well in the home garden, as their care is nominal. Water them thoroughly after planting and until the tree has established. As with cultivated orchard cherry trees, flowering cherries are susceptible to both insect and disease issues. Prune to thin out branches and improve air and light circulation as well as to remove any dead or diseased branches. Treat any fungal diseases with an application of fungicide. Take care not to damage the fragile bark with mowers or string trimmers. Apply fertilizer regularly and be consistent with irrigation to minimize stress on the tree which can encourage pests and disease.
Types of Flowering Cherry
As mentioned, the first trees planted in Washington, D.C. were Yoshino cherries, but they are only one of several types of cherry. Yoshino cherry trees (Prunus x yedoensi) can grow to 40-50 feet tall and wide usually with a rounded, spreading habit although some cultivars have a weeping form. They are also short lived trees surviving 15-20 years of age. Cultivars of Yoshino include:
Akebono
Shidare Yoshino, a weeping variety
As common as the Yoshino along the nation’s boulevards are, so too are Japanese flowering cherries (Prunus serrulata). Japanese cherries grow from between 15-25 feet and the same distance across. Some have an upright form and some a weeping form. Japanese flowering cherries may have single or double, often fragrant blossoms from early to mid-spring. Japanese cherries are short lived, only 15-20 years of age. Cultivars of Japanese cherry include:
Amanogawa
Shogetsu
Kwanzan
Shirofugen
Shirotae
Higan cherry trees (P. subhirtella) are the third type of flowering cherry. They will attain heights of between 20-40 feet and 15-30 feet across and may be upright and spreading, rounded or weeping in habit. They are the most heat, cold and stress tolerant of all the cherries and live longer than the others. Higan cherry cultivars include:
Autumnalis, with a rounded, very wide canopy
Pendula, a weeping cultivar
Finally, the Fuji cherry (P. incisa) is a compact dwarf variety of flowering cherry that features twisted limbs and early white blossoms with pink centers.
What are Flowering Cherry Trees?
Ornamental cherries are flowering cherry trees that are closely related to orchard cherry trees but are not grown for their fruit. Rather, ornamental cherries are grown for their ornamental properties, particularly their springtime floral displays. Ornamental or flowering cherry refers to several species of Prunus trees along with their cultivars. Most of these Prunus species hail from Japan.
Although some types of flowering cherry produce fruit, it is usually too tart for human consumption. That doesn’t apply to birds, however! Many birds such as robins, cardinals and waxwings find the tangy fruit very much to their liking.
Many ornamental cherries are notable not only for their gorgeous spring blooms but also for their wonderful fall color with foliage that turns red, purple or even orange. Growing Ornamental Cherries Ornamental cherry trees can be grown in USDA zones 5-8 or 5-9 in the West. Trees should be planted in full sun in well-draining soil and protected from strong winds. When choosing a tree, be sure to select one that is recommended for your zone and consider the eventual height and breadth of the tree at maturity. Ornamental cherries get from between 20-30 feet in height and live from between 25-50 years. Flowering cherries do well in most any soil type or pH provided the soil is well-draining and moist. Plant flowering cherries in the early fall.
Flowering Cherry Tree
Care Flowering cherries do very well in the home garden, as their care is nominal. Water them thoroughly after planting and until the tree has established. As with cultivated orchard cherry trees, flowering cherries are susceptible to both insect and disease issues. Prune to thin out branches and improve air and light circulation as well as to remove any dead or diseased branches. Treat any fungal diseases with an application of fungicide. Take care not to damage the fragile bark with mowers or string trimmers. Apply fertilizer regularly and be consistent with irrigation to minimize stress on the tree which can encourage pests and disease.
Types of Flowering Cherry
As mentioned, the first trees planted in Washington, D.C. were Yoshino cherries, but they are only one of several types of cherry. Yoshino cherry trees (Prunus x yedoensi) can grow to 40-50 feet tall and wide usually with a rounded, spreading habit although some cultivars have a weeping form. They are also short lived trees surviving 15-20 years of age. Cultivars of Yoshino include:
Akebono
Shidare Yoshino, a weeping variety
As common as the Yoshino along the nation’s boulevards are, so too are Japanese flowering cherries (Prunus serrulata). Japanese cherries grow from between 15-25 feet and the same distance across. Some have an upright form and some a weeping form. Japanese flowering cherries may have single or double, often fragrant blossoms from early to mid-spring. Japanese cherries are short lived, only 15-20 years of age. Cultivars of Japanese cherry include:
Amanogawa
Shogetsu
Kwanzan
Shirofugen
Shirotae
Higan cherry trees (P. subhirtella) are the third type of flowering cherry. They will attain heights of between 20-40 feet and 15-30 feet across and may be upright and spreading, rounded or weeping in habit. They are the most heat, cold and stress tolerant of all the cherries and live longer than the others. Higan cherry cultivars include:
Autumnalis, with a rounded, very wide canopy
Pendula, a weeping cultivar
Finally, the Fuji cherry (P. incisa) is a compact dwarf variety of flowering cherry that features twisted limbs and early white blossoms with pink centers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Oak trees (Quercus) are among the most common tree species found in forests, but their number are declining. The main cause of the decline is the value of acorns and young saplings as a food source for wildlife. You can help the tree recover its former glory by starting and planting oak tree seedlings following the instructions in this article.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Oaks (Quercus) come in many sizes and shapes, and you’ll even find a few evergreens in the mix. Whether you are looking for the perfect tree for your landscape or want to learn to identify the different types of oak trees, this article can help.
Oak Tree Varieties
There are dozens of oak tree varieties in North America. The varieties are divided into two main categories: red oaks and white oaks.
Red oak trees
Reds have leaves with pointed lobes tipped with tiny bristles. Their acorns take two years to mature, and sprout the spring after they drop to the ground. Common red oaks include:
Willow oak
Black oak
Japanese evergreen oak
Water oak
Pin oak
White oak trees
The leaves on white oak trees are rounded and smooth. Their acorns mature in one year, and they sprout soon after they fall to the ground. This group includes:
Chinkapin
Post oak
Bur oak
White oak
Most Common Oak Trees
Below is a list of oak tree types that are the most commonly planted. You’ll find that most oaks are massive in size and not suitable for urban or suburban landscapes. White Oak Tree (Q. alba) – Not to be confused with the group of oaks called white oaks, the white oak tree grows very slowly. After 10 to 12 years, the tree will stand only 10 to 15 feet tall, but it will eventually reach a height of 50 to 100 feet. You shouldn’t plant it near sidewalks or patios because the trunk flairs at the base. It doesn’t like to be disturbed, so plant it in a permanent location as a very young sapling and prune it in the winter while it is dormant.
Japanese Evergreen Oak (Q. acuta) – The smallest of the oak trees, the Japanese evergreen grows 20 to 30 feet tall and up to 20 feet wide. It prefers the warm coastal areas of the Southeast, but it will grow inland in protected areas. It has a shrubby growth habit and works well as a lawn tree or screen. The tree provides good quality shade despite its small size. Pin Oak (Q. palustris) – The pin oak grows 60 to 75 feet tall with a spread of 25 to 40 feet. It has a straight trunk and a well-shaped canopy, with the upper branches growing upward and lower branches drooping down. The branches in the center of the tree are nearly horizontal. It makes a wonderful shade tree, but you may have to remove some of the lower branches to allow clearance.
Oak Tree Varieties
There are dozens of oak tree varieties in North America. The varieties are divided into two main categories: red oaks and white oaks.
Red oak trees
Reds have leaves with pointed lobes tipped with tiny bristles. Their acorns take two years to mature, and sprout the spring after they drop to the ground. Common red oaks include:
Willow oak
Black oak
Japanese evergreen oak
Water oak
Pin oak
White oak trees
The leaves on white oak trees are rounded and smooth. Their acorns mature in one year, and they sprout soon after they fall to the ground. This group includes:
Chinkapin
Post oak
Bur oak
White oak
Most Common Oak Trees
Below is a list of oak tree types that are the most commonly planted. You’ll find that most oaks are massive in size and not suitable for urban or suburban landscapes. White Oak Tree (Q. alba) – Not to be confused with the group of oaks called white oaks, the white oak tree grows very slowly. After 10 to 12 years, the tree will stand only 10 to 15 feet tall, but it will eventually reach a height of 50 to 100 feet. You shouldn’t plant it near sidewalks or patios because the trunk flairs at the base. It doesn’t like to be disturbed, so plant it in a permanent location as a very young sapling and prune it in the winter while it is dormant.
Japanese Evergreen Oak (Q. acuta) – The smallest of the oak trees, the Japanese evergreen grows 20 to 30 feet tall and up to 20 feet wide. It prefers the warm coastal areas of the Southeast, but it will grow inland in protected areas. It has a shrubby growth habit and works well as a lawn tree or screen. The tree provides good quality shade despite its small size. Pin Oak (Q. palustris) – The pin oak grows 60 to 75 feet tall with a spread of 25 to 40 feet. It has a straight trunk and a well-shaped canopy, with the upper branches growing upward and lower branches drooping down. The branches in the center of the tree are nearly horizontal. It makes a wonderful shade tree, but you may have to remove some of the lower branches to allow clearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Don’t look for the typical lobed oak leaves to identify chinkapin oak trees (Quercus muehlenbergii). These oaks grow leaves that are toothed like those of chestnut trees, and are often misidentified because of this. On the other hand, some facts about chinkapin trees help you recognize them as part of the oak tree family. For example, chinkapin oak trees, like all oaks, grow clusters of buds at the end of branches. Read on for more chinkapin oak information.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Willow oaks are no relation to willows but they seem to soak up water in a similar fashion. Where do willow oak trees grow? They thrive in floodplains and near streams or marshes, but the trees are remarkably drought tolerant, too. One of the interesting facts about willow oak trees is their relation to red oaks. They are in the red oak group but do not have the characteristic lobed leaves of the red oaks. Instead, willow oaks have narrow willow-like leaves with a bristle-like hair at the end of the foliage that characterizes them as oaks.
Willow Oak Tree Information
Willow oaks (Quercus phellos) are popular shade trees in parks and along streets. This tree grows fairly quickly and can become too large for some urban settings. The plant tolerates pollution and drought and has no serious insect or pest problems. The main items for good willow oak tree care are water at establishment and some support when young.
Willow oaks develop nicely symmetrical pyramid to round crown shapes. These attractive trees can grow up to 120 feet in height but are more commonly found at 60 to 70 feet. The root zone is shallow, which makes it easy to transplant. The delicate leaves create dappled shade and produce a golden yellow color show in fall before they drop.
Leaves are 2 to 8 inches long, simple and entire. Willow oaks produce small acorns of ½ to 1 inch in length. It takes 2 years for these to mature, which is a unique bit of willow oak tree information. These are very attractive to squirrels, chipmunks and other ground foragers. You can consider this one of willow oak trees pros and cons where ground litter is concerned.
Where Do Willow Oak Trees Grow?
Willow oaks are found from New York south to Florida and west to Texas, Oklahoma and Missouri. They occur in flood lands, alluvial plains, moist forest, stream banks and bottomlands. The plant thrives in moist acidic soils of almost any type. Willow oaks require full sun. In partial shade situations, the crown will develop into a weakly branched slender form as limbs reach for the sun. In full sun, the plant spreads out its limbs and makes a more balanced shape. For this reason, pruning young trees in low light is part of good willow oak care. Training early helps the tree form a strong structure.
Willow Oak Tree Pros and Cons
As a shade specimen in large public spaces, willow oak really can’t be beat for beauty and ease of management. But one of the facts about willow oak trees is their high water needs, especially when young. This can mean the tree will pirate moisture from other plants in the area. It is also a fast grower and can suck the local nutrients out of the soil as fast as they can be replaced. None of this is good for nearby flora. The dropped leaves in fall and acorns on the ground may be considered a nuisance. The animals attracted by the nuts are either cute to watch or annoying rodents. Additionally, the large size may not be appropriate for the home landscape and some of the tree’s peculiarities may be more than you are prepared to live with.
Either way you look at it, willow oak is definitely a strong, versatile tree with good wind resistance and easy of care, just make sure it’s the right tree for your garden/landscape space.
Willow Oak Tree Information
Willow oaks (Quercus phellos) are popular shade trees in parks and along streets. This tree grows fairly quickly and can become too large for some urban settings. The plant tolerates pollution and drought and has no serious insect or pest problems. The main items for good willow oak tree care are water at establishment and some support when young.
Willow oaks develop nicely symmetrical pyramid to round crown shapes. These attractive trees can grow up to 120 feet in height but are more commonly found at 60 to 70 feet. The root zone is shallow, which makes it easy to transplant. The delicate leaves create dappled shade and produce a golden yellow color show in fall before they drop.
Leaves are 2 to 8 inches long, simple and entire. Willow oaks produce small acorns of ½ to 1 inch in length. It takes 2 years for these to mature, which is a unique bit of willow oak tree information. These are very attractive to squirrels, chipmunks and other ground foragers. You can consider this one of willow oak trees pros and cons where ground litter is concerned.
Where Do Willow Oak Trees Grow?
Willow oaks are found from New York south to Florida and west to Texas, Oklahoma and Missouri. They occur in flood lands, alluvial plains, moist forest, stream banks and bottomlands. The plant thrives in moist acidic soils of almost any type. Willow oaks require full sun. In partial shade situations, the crown will develop into a weakly branched slender form as limbs reach for the sun. In full sun, the plant spreads out its limbs and makes a more balanced shape. For this reason, pruning young trees in low light is part of good willow oak care. Training early helps the tree form a strong structure.
Willow Oak Tree Pros and Cons
As a shade specimen in large public spaces, willow oak really can’t be beat for beauty and ease of management. But one of the facts about willow oak trees is their high water needs, especially when young. This can mean the tree will pirate moisture from other plants in the area. It is also a fast grower and can suck the local nutrients out of the soil as fast as they can be replaced. None of this is good for nearby flora. The dropped leaves in fall and acorns on the ground may be considered a nuisance. The animals attracted by the nuts are either cute to watch or annoying rodents. Additionally, the large size may not be appropriate for the home landscape and some of the tree’s peculiarities may be more than you are prepared to live with.
Either way you look at it, willow oak is definitely a strong, versatile tree with good wind resistance and easy of care, just make sure it’s the right tree for your garden/landscape space.
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