文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Parasitic nematodes seek out insects harmful to garden plants, shrubs and trees in their soil-borne stages and destroy them from the inside out. Present in soils throughout the world, these microscopic, non-segmented worms destroy over 200 types of insects that mature in the ground including weevils, Japanese beetles, fleas, borers and fungus gnats, before they reach adult stages.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including beneficial nematodes, at Planet Natural. One pint — 10 million active units — treats up to 550 square feet and costs $29.95 with FedEx 2-Day shipping included!
When released into the soil, nematodes seek out the larvae and pupae of susceptible pests by sensing the heat and carbon dioxide they generate. They enter pests through various orifices or directly through the “skin.” Once inside the host, they release a bacterium that kills it within a day or two. They will continue to feed on the remains, multiplying as they do, before exhausting it and leaving to seek another food source.
Nematodes do not prey on lady bugs, earthworms or most other beneficial insects. They are harmless to plants and humans as is the bacterium they produce. Evidence of the nematodes effectiveness, other than reduced pest populations, is difficult to spot as these microscopic creatures consume their hosts in the soil, leaving little trace behind. They’re appropriate for use on lawns, in gardens and around trees and shrubs. They need generally moist condition to facilitate their movement.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. Optimally, nematodes should be applied at sunset to protect them against sunlight.
To control boring insects, prepare a water suspension, then inject or spray the solution into the burrows.
Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Scanmask®, a product based on a selected strain of Steinernema feltiae, will provide insect control in an area from 250 to 550 square feet. This refers to the area actually at risk or already infested by insects. Since infestations are rarely uniform, nematodes should be used as a “directed control measure” on areas already or at risk of being infested.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including beneficial nematodes, at Planet Natural. One pint — 10 million active units — treats up to 550 square feet and costs $29.95 with FedEx 2-Day shipping included!
When released into the soil, nematodes seek out the larvae and pupae of susceptible pests by sensing the heat and carbon dioxide they generate. They enter pests through various orifices or directly through the “skin.” Once inside the host, they release a bacterium that kills it within a day or two. They will continue to feed on the remains, multiplying as they do, before exhausting it and leaving to seek another food source.
Nematodes do not prey on lady bugs, earthworms or most other beneficial insects. They are harmless to plants and humans as is the bacterium they produce. Evidence of the nematodes effectiveness, other than reduced pest populations, is difficult to spot as these microscopic creatures consume their hosts in the soil, leaving little trace behind. They’re appropriate for use on lawns, in gardens and around trees and shrubs. They need generally moist condition to facilitate their movement.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. Optimally, nematodes should be applied at sunset to protect them against sunlight.
To control boring insects, prepare a water suspension, then inject or spray the solution into the burrows.
Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Scanmask®, a product based on a selected strain of Steinernema feltiae, will provide insect control in an area from 250 to 550 square feet. This refers to the area actually at risk or already infested by insects. Since infestations are rarely uniform, nematodes should be used as a “directed control measure” on areas already or at risk of being infested.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Ick. I hate spider mites. They are a plague, particularly on the container gardens that I try to overwinter inside. I have had them infest several fruit trees, including, Meyer lemon, lime, kumquat and orange. It could be that all these trees became infested because of their close proximity to each other. However, once one plant gets spider mites they can infest all of your plants pretty quickly.
Unfortunately, it's very hard to get rid of spider mites and sometimes, you just have to pitch plants that get them.
Be careful, if you do have to get rid of plants that are infested, do not compost them. Sadly the best way to get rid of them is to either throw them way out in the woods, or put them in plastic bags and put them in the garbage.
Identifying a Spider Mite Infestation - Spider mites are tiny - smaller than the head of a pin - so it's hard to see them. To identify an infestation, you can check to see if there is webbing on your plants particularly at the intersection of branches. Another, sign, after the spider mites have infested a plant, is to see leaves that are spotted or speckled looking. Spider mights can range in color from red to light brown, yellow to green.
Getting Rid of Spider Mites - Like most plant pests, you a have much better chance dealing with spider mites before you have an all out infestation. The more mites, the more eggs and the harder it is to control them. My first line of defense, with almost any insect problem in my containers (though spider mites aren't actually classified as an insect, but as an arachnid), is to spray them with a hose, trying to knock as many insects off as possible--making sure to spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops. Once the plant is dry, I try an insecticidal soap spray. With large plants, it's hard to get good coverage all over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves, but do the best you can. I like to use insecticidal soap instead of a pesticide because it doesn't harm beneficial insects and is listed as ok for organic gardening. After insecticidal soap, I try neem oil or a neem oil combination. A disadvantage of neem oil is some people don't like the smell and it can be sticky and get on walls and furniture. Another thing to try is a pyrethrin insecticide, which is somewhat more toxic than the neem oil and insecticidal soap, but is still considered "natural" pesticide because it is made from chrysanthemums.
Be Persistent - Chances are you will have to keep spraying your spider mite infested plant every seven to ten days in order to interrupt the cycle of eggs hatching. Also, make sure to spray the soil as well as the entire plant.
When to Give Up - To be honest, there is no absolute answer to this unless your plant is completely dead--even then, plants can surprise you and bounce back. I have battled spider mites through the winter and then have taken plants that looked like they were at death's door, cut them back severely in the spring, and then put them outside. Some of the plants rebounded gorgeously, thriving throughout the summer. However, on bringing them back inside, the mites returned with a vengeance. But I have a hard time giving up on beloved plants, so I tend to keep them limping along, way past when it is practical.
How to Prevent Spider Mites from Attacking Your Plants - Prevention is always the preferred option when it comes to mites. Before you buy a plant, look for the tell-tale signs of spotted leaves or webbing. If you see any indication of mites, don't buy the plant or any plants nearby. Also, mites like dry and dusty conditions, so keep your plants hydrated and healthy, and a level of humidity in the air, so the conditions will be inhospitable to mites.
Unfortunately, it's very hard to get rid of spider mites and sometimes, you just have to pitch plants that get them.
Be careful, if you do have to get rid of plants that are infested, do not compost them. Sadly the best way to get rid of them is to either throw them way out in the woods, or put them in plastic bags and put them in the garbage.
Identifying a Spider Mite Infestation - Spider mites are tiny - smaller than the head of a pin - so it's hard to see them. To identify an infestation, you can check to see if there is webbing on your plants particularly at the intersection of branches. Another, sign, after the spider mites have infested a plant, is to see leaves that are spotted or speckled looking. Spider mights can range in color from red to light brown, yellow to green.
Getting Rid of Spider Mites - Like most plant pests, you a have much better chance dealing with spider mites before you have an all out infestation. The more mites, the more eggs and the harder it is to control them. My first line of defense, with almost any insect problem in my containers (though spider mites aren't actually classified as an insect, but as an arachnid), is to spray them with a hose, trying to knock as many insects off as possible--making sure to spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops. Once the plant is dry, I try an insecticidal soap spray. With large plants, it's hard to get good coverage all over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves, but do the best you can. I like to use insecticidal soap instead of a pesticide because it doesn't harm beneficial insects and is listed as ok for organic gardening. After insecticidal soap, I try neem oil or a neem oil combination. A disadvantage of neem oil is some people don't like the smell and it can be sticky and get on walls and furniture. Another thing to try is a pyrethrin insecticide, which is somewhat more toxic than the neem oil and insecticidal soap, but is still considered "natural" pesticide because it is made from chrysanthemums.
Be Persistent - Chances are you will have to keep spraying your spider mite infested plant every seven to ten days in order to interrupt the cycle of eggs hatching. Also, make sure to spray the soil as well as the entire plant.
When to Give Up - To be honest, there is no absolute answer to this unless your plant is completely dead--even then, plants can surprise you and bounce back. I have battled spider mites through the winter and then have taken plants that looked like they were at death's door, cut them back severely in the spring, and then put them outside. Some of the plants rebounded gorgeously, thriving throughout the summer. However, on bringing them back inside, the mites returned with a vengeance. But I have a hard time giving up on beloved plants, so I tend to keep them limping along, way past when it is practical.
How to Prevent Spider Mites from Attacking Your Plants - Prevention is always the preferred option when it comes to mites. Before you buy a plant, look for the tell-tale signs of spotted leaves or webbing. If you see any indication of mites, don't buy the plant or any plants nearby. Also, mites like dry and dusty conditions, so keep your plants hydrated and healthy, and a level of humidity in the air, so the conditions will be inhospitable to mites.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Hopefully, your trees and shrubs will never be attacked by beetles. They bore into the plant, destroying the nutrient transport system and weakening the overall health. If the infestation is serious enough, death may occur. They are very hard to control, but here are some ways to get rid of beetles:
Choose Trees and Shrubs Wisely and Keep Them Healthy
This may seem very obvious, but it's best if you take steps to try not to have a beetle infestation at all.
This begins by choosing trees and shrubs that are adapted to growing in your area; species that are poorly adapted will struggle and have health issues. Make sure it is planted properly and watered well to help limit the amount of stress the tree goes through. If you keep the plant healthy, it has a much better chance of not being attacked, and a better chance of surviving if it is.
Keep the tree or shrub free of cuts and breaks. Do not do your pruning when beetles are known to be in the area. Don't leave newly cut firewood nearby, as this will provide a place for the beetles to breed.
Different beetles attack different kinds of trees and shrubs, so don't plant the kinds affected if there have been known infestations in the area. You can also try species known to have some resistance.
Hire a Licensed Pesticide Applicator to Apply Appropriate Pesticides
It is difficult to control beetles using chemical means unless the beetle attacks are detected very early.
The pesticides used are also very expensive and not usually available to homeowners. However, if you have valuable trees that you would like to try to save, call in a licensed pesticide applicator. They may be able to save trees by spraying the trunks when the adults are flying.
Trees and shrubs that were attacked in the past but no longer have beetles should not be sprayed.
Neither should you spray species that are not affected by the type of beetle present. Trees that are highly infested cannot be saved by pesticides.
Prune Away Affected Branches
If the beetle problem is noticed early enough, you can prune off any branches that have been attacked. However, you should be careful when doing this, as new pruning wounds may attract more beetles. Learn the months when the adult beetles are flying and try to avoid pruning during those times.
Cut Down Affected Trees and Shrubs
Sadly, cutting down the affected trees or shrubs is the only sure-fire way of controlling beetles in most cases. Usually, by the time the problem is noticed, the infestation is too widespread to be controlled. Pesticides are not able to wipe out large beetle populations, nor pruning if the whole plant is affected.
If you have many susceptible trees together, thinning them out can help improve the chances of the remaining trees' survival.
Cut down the affected tree or shrub entirely and destroy the wood. The pieces should be chipped or burned to destroy any beetle larvae. Be sure to move it far away from your remaining trees and shrubs or the beetles may find a new home.
Choose Trees and Shrubs Wisely and Keep Them Healthy
This may seem very obvious, but it's best if you take steps to try not to have a beetle infestation at all.
This begins by choosing trees and shrubs that are adapted to growing in your area; species that are poorly adapted will struggle and have health issues. Make sure it is planted properly and watered well to help limit the amount of stress the tree goes through. If you keep the plant healthy, it has a much better chance of not being attacked, and a better chance of surviving if it is.
Keep the tree or shrub free of cuts and breaks. Do not do your pruning when beetles are known to be in the area. Don't leave newly cut firewood nearby, as this will provide a place for the beetles to breed.
Different beetles attack different kinds of trees and shrubs, so don't plant the kinds affected if there have been known infestations in the area. You can also try species known to have some resistance.
Hire a Licensed Pesticide Applicator to Apply Appropriate Pesticides
It is difficult to control beetles using chemical means unless the beetle attacks are detected very early.
The pesticides used are also very expensive and not usually available to homeowners. However, if you have valuable trees that you would like to try to save, call in a licensed pesticide applicator. They may be able to save trees by spraying the trunks when the adults are flying.
Trees and shrubs that were attacked in the past but no longer have beetles should not be sprayed.
Neither should you spray species that are not affected by the type of beetle present. Trees that are highly infested cannot be saved by pesticides.
Prune Away Affected Branches
If the beetle problem is noticed early enough, you can prune off any branches that have been attacked. However, you should be careful when doing this, as new pruning wounds may attract more beetles. Learn the months when the adult beetles are flying and try to avoid pruning during those times.
Cut Down Affected Trees and Shrubs
Sadly, cutting down the affected trees or shrubs is the only sure-fire way of controlling beetles in most cases. Usually, by the time the problem is noticed, the infestation is too widespread to be controlled. Pesticides are not able to wipe out large beetle populations, nor pruning if the whole plant is affected.
If you have many susceptible trees together, thinning them out can help improve the chances of the remaining trees' survival.
Cut down the affected tree or shrub entirely and destroy the wood. The pieces should be chipped or burned to destroy any beetle larvae. Be sure to move it far away from your remaining trees and shrubs or the beetles may find a new home.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many homeowners who landscape their properties with trees are taken aback when they spot infestations of leaf gall on their favorite specimens. Appearing as little bumps on the foliage of a tree (as if your plant were breaking out with some weird type of acne), these disfiguring eruptions look terrible. But how bad are they for the long-term health of your plant? And what is the cause behind them?
What Causes Leaf Gall? How Big a Problem Is It?
"We have a river birch tree which is about three years old," writes one reader. "Suddenly this summer, small bumps are appearing on some of the leaves. Is this a disease and can it be stopped?"
What this reader is reporting is a case of leaf gall. Those small bumps are caused by an insect that eats or lays eggs on the plant's foliage. One Master Gardener explains that the gall "is the plant's response to the resulting irritation," drawing an analogy to what happens to the human body after a bug such as a mosquito bites us: a bump is left behind. She notes that, while galls are rarely fatal, "they may cause early leaf drop," but she adds that a healthy, mature tree will be able to cope with such leaf drop by producing new foliage and that a serious problem should only result if the galls keep coming back for several years in a row.
What's the Solution?
The bad news is that, once you spot these bumps, the damage has already been done.
You can't spray to get rid of the bumps that are currently infesting your tree's foliage: you are stuck with them for the present year. As the same source notes, however, if leaf gall is a recurring problem for you, you can spray in early spring to get a jump on the insects. However, do note that you can't just spray willy-nilly: the spray that you use must target the particular insect that is causing the leaf galls to form.
One problem with spraying, however, as pointed out by the Missouri Botanical Garden (MBOT), is that you will be killing beneficial insects, too -- insects that may actually be able to help you control your leaf-gall problem over the long haul (by killing the insects who cause the galls). They emphasize that spraying is a preventive measure, and that a certified arborist should be employed for the job (because it takes great skill "to identify the gall-producing organism").
The good news, again, is that leaf gall is typically not considered very dangerous (either in general or to river birch trees, specifically). In fact, MBOT asserts that a leaf studded with these ugly growths is still "usually able to carry out photosynthesis at near normal levels."
In addition to birches, trees known to be susceptible to developing leaf galls include:
Elms
Maples
Oaks
What Causes Leaf Gall? How Big a Problem Is It?
"We have a river birch tree which is about three years old," writes one reader. "Suddenly this summer, small bumps are appearing on some of the leaves. Is this a disease and can it be stopped?"
What this reader is reporting is a case of leaf gall. Those small bumps are caused by an insect that eats or lays eggs on the plant's foliage. One Master Gardener explains that the gall "is the plant's response to the resulting irritation," drawing an analogy to what happens to the human body after a bug such as a mosquito bites us: a bump is left behind. She notes that, while galls are rarely fatal, "they may cause early leaf drop," but she adds that a healthy, mature tree will be able to cope with such leaf drop by producing new foliage and that a serious problem should only result if the galls keep coming back for several years in a row.
What's the Solution?
The bad news is that, once you spot these bumps, the damage has already been done.
You can't spray to get rid of the bumps that are currently infesting your tree's foliage: you are stuck with them for the present year. As the same source notes, however, if leaf gall is a recurring problem for you, you can spray in early spring to get a jump on the insects. However, do note that you can't just spray willy-nilly: the spray that you use must target the particular insect that is causing the leaf galls to form.
One problem with spraying, however, as pointed out by the Missouri Botanical Garden (MBOT), is that you will be killing beneficial insects, too -- insects that may actually be able to help you control your leaf-gall problem over the long haul (by killing the insects who cause the galls). They emphasize that spraying is a preventive measure, and that a certified arborist should be employed for the job (because it takes great skill "to identify the gall-producing organism").
The good news, again, is that leaf gall is typically not considered very dangerous (either in general or to river birch trees, specifically). In fact, MBOT asserts that a leaf studded with these ugly growths is still "usually able to carry out photosynthesis at near normal levels."
In addition to birches, trees known to be susceptible to developing leaf galls include:
Elms
Maples
Oaks
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
"Why do I have brown leaves on my magnolia trees?" Have you ever asked that question? You are hardly alone. These specimens can be magnificent, but they can also be plagued with problems.
Brown leaves on magnolia trees could be the result of any one of a number of factors. Three such possible reasons are presented below, along with (where appropriate) a solution to the problem.
Possible Reasons for the Dead Foliage, How to Prevent It
A context must be provided to answer this tree-care question properly.
We must first know:
The type of magnolia tree in question.
The time of year when the discoloration occurs.
Some magnolia trees are deciduous, such as saucer magnolia trees (M. x soulangiana), and some are evergreen, such as Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora). If your own tree is a deciduous type, then you have nothing to worry about if the issue occurs during the fall season: its leaves are supposed to turn brown and fall in autumn.
If, on the other hand, the brown leaves appear in spring, it could mean that there was frost damage. The good news is that such frost damage is unlikely to kill your tree. The bad news is that it will ruin the plant's appearance for a while, and that there is precious little you can do to prevent frost damage on a mature specimen.
However, if you have just brought a small tree home from the garden center, you have the option of selecting a planting location for it that will be more likely to keep frosts off the foliage.
An example of such a sheltered area would be one close your house. If the plant is still small enough, you may also be able to throw a sheet (or a similar covering) over it on a night when a frost is expected in your area (but remember to remove it next morning).
For a mature magnolia tree, your options are more limited.
However, you can try taking the following measures:
Soak the soil around the root zone of the plant. The air temperature above damp ground tends to stay warmer than that above drier ground.
Set up a patio heater (if you have one) near the plant (but not so close that it actually heats up the foliage). Always follow safety instructions to the letter when running such devices.
Spray an antitranspirant on the tree's leaves to offer some protection.
If the browning appears in summer, inadequate watering may be the cause of brown leaves, although high winds could also be the culprit (they dry out the foliage). The former is a more serious problem, but there is still no reason to be hasty in concluding that your magnolia tree has died. It is best to exercise patience, giving the plant time to recuperate. As preventive measures:
Plant new trees in a sheltered area if your region is subject to high winds.
Make sure the soil in the root zone is kept evenly moist.
Finally, if the problem is happening in spring or summer, ask yourself this question: Do the brown leaves fall off almost immediately after the color change? That could signal a nutritional problem knows as "iron deficiency." I would recommend you have a soil test done (your county extension should be able to handle this).
Brown leaves on magnolia trees could be the result of any one of a number of factors. Three such possible reasons are presented below, along with (where appropriate) a solution to the problem.
Possible Reasons for the Dead Foliage, How to Prevent It
A context must be provided to answer this tree-care question properly.
We must first know:
The type of magnolia tree in question.
The time of year when the discoloration occurs.
Some magnolia trees are deciduous, such as saucer magnolia trees (M. x soulangiana), and some are evergreen, such as Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora). If your own tree is a deciduous type, then you have nothing to worry about if the issue occurs during the fall season: its leaves are supposed to turn brown and fall in autumn.
If, on the other hand, the brown leaves appear in spring, it could mean that there was frost damage. The good news is that such frost damage is unlikely to kill your tree. The bad news is that it will ruin the plant's appearance for a while, and that there is precious little you can do to prevent frost damage on a mature specimen.
However, if you have just brought a small tree home from the garden center, you have the option of selecting a planting location for it that will be more likely to keep frosts off the foliage.
An example of such a sheltered area would be one close your house. If the plant is still small enough, you may also be able to throw a sheet (or a similar covering) over it on a night when a frost is expected in your area (but remember to remove it next morning).
For a mature magnolia tree, your options are more limited.
However, you can try taking the following measures:
Soak the soil around the root zone of the plant. The air temperature above damp ground tends to stay warmer than that above drier ground.
Set up a patio heater (if you have one) near the plant (but not so close that it actually heats up the foliage). Always follow safety instructions to the letter when running such devices.
Spray an antitranspirant on the tree's leaves to offer some protection.
If the browning appears in summer, inadequate watering may be the cause of brown leaves, although high winds could also be the culprit (they dry out the foliage). The former is a more serious problem, but there is still no reason to be hasty in concluding that your magnolia tree has died. It is best to exercise patience, giving the plant time to recuperate. As preventive measures:
Plant new trees in a sheltered area if your region is subject to high winds.
Make sure the soil in the root zone is kept evenly moist.
Finally, if the problem is happening in spring or summer, ask yourself this question: Do the brown leaves fall off almost immediately after the color change? That could signal a nutritional problem knows as "iron deficiency." I would recommend you have a soil test done (your county extension should be able to handle this).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A reader wrote in about newly planted Bradford pear trees, saying that they had borne the brunt of high winds for a couple of days. The Bradford pears on the property developed brown leaves; they suffered from leaf wilt and looked dead, despite the homeowner's keeping the ground damp. So what, if anything, can be done in cases like this? 
Windy Weather Only Partly Responsible for Leaf Wilt and Related Diseases
Bradford pears and other trees that have just been transplanted experience transplant shock in a great many cases.
Their roots have been disrupted, and they can be quick to show their displeasure. If someone picked you up, carried you out of your home and plopped you down on a strange property, you probably would be none too happy, either.
In its state of shock, the damaged Bradford pear tree's roots can't send water up to the leaves as they normally would. Pounding winds make matters worse. One result can be leaf wilt. Other plant problems can be caused by these conditions, as well, on deciduous trees. The Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service lists some of them:
Leaf scorch.
Yellowing of the leaves.
Leaf rolling.
Curling of the leaves.
Purdue observes that, at its onset, leaf scorch is indicated by the coloration of the "tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves" becoming yellow, and that, as the problem progresses, this tissue becomes dry, resulting in a brown color.
What Is the Treatment for Leaf Wilt on Bradford Pear Trees?
What can you do to revive Bradford pear trees that have fallen prey to leaf wilt?
Sadly, there is not much at this stage of the game that you can do. This is a case where prevention before the fact is more effective than treatment after the fact. For future reference, windbreaks could have minimized wilt damage, but it is rather late for that once the wilting has taken place.
One should, however, emphasize what not to do: Do not fertilize.
By feeding the plants, you would be encouraging additional leaf growth. That is not something that you want at this point. The root system can't support the canopy as it is, as said above; so there is no sense in adding to its burden.
Provide the Bradford pear trees with irrigation regularly. Other than that, all you can do is exercise patience and see if they revive from their transplant shock and subsequent leaf wilt.
Transplant Shock and "Bare-Root" Plants
As the same Purdue source points out, "Bare root trees and shrubs are most susceptible to transplant shock. Such 'stressed' plants are very fragile and are more susceptible to other stress factors." If you are used to buying plants at garden centers growing in flats or pots (or balled-and-burlapped, in the case of trees), then that terminology, "bare-root" might leave you scratching your head. But the definition of this term is surprisingly straightforward:
Bare-root plants are shipped with no soil "clothing" their roots. When you buy shrubs at the garden center, they may well come in containers, but when you order them from garden catalogs, they will often arrive as bare-root plants.
You may wonder if shipping a plant with no soil on its roots is harmful to the plant.
The fact is, not just any plant can be shipped bare-root. But certain plants -- for example, rose bushes -- can survive this method of transport in a sort of dormancy. But do not push your luck! Planting bare-root plants as soon as possible after they have arrived by mail is recommended. And if you cannot plant immediately, at least place the roots in water.
As faithful as you might be in following these instructions, though, there is simply a lot that can go wrong when installing new plants -- whether it be bare-root or not. One of the "stress factors" cited by Purdue is drainage problems. To improve the chances that your new Bradford pear tree (or other plant) will survive and thrive, ensure that the soil under and around your plant's roots drains well, so that water won't collect and rot the roots.
Windy Weather Only Partly Responsible for Leaf Wilt and Related Diseases
Bradford pears and other trees that have just been transplanted experience transplant shock in a great many cases.
Their roots have been disrupted, and they can be quick to show their displeasure. If someone picked you up, carried you out of your home and plopped you down on a strange property, you probably would be none too happy, either.
In its state of shock, the damaged Bradford pear tree's roots can't send water up to the leaves as they normally would. Pounding winds make matters worse. One result can be leaf wilt. Other plant problems can be caused by these conditions, as well, on deciduous trees. The Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service lists some of them:
Leaf scorch.
Yellowing of the leaves.
Leaf rolling.
Curling of the leaves.
Purdue observes that, at its onset, leaf scorch is indicated by the coloration of the "tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves" becoming yellow, and that, as the problem progresses, this tissue becomes dry, resulting in a brown color.
What Is the Treatment for Leaf Wilt on Bradford Pear Trees?
What can you do to revive Bradford pear trees that have fallen prey to leaf wilt?
Sadly, there is not much at this stage of the game that you can do. This is a case where prevention before the fact is more effective than treatment after the fact. For future reference, windbreaks could have minimized wilt damage, but it is rather late for that once the wilting has taken place.
One should, however, emphasize what not to do: Do not fertilize.
By feeding the plants, you would be encouraging additional leaf growth. That is not something that you want at this point. The root system can't support the canopy as it is, as said above; so there is no sense in adding to its burden.
Provide the Bradford pear trees with irrigation regularly. Other than that, all you can do is exercise patience and see if they revive from their transplant shock and subsequent leaf wilt.
Transplant Shock and "Bare-Root" Plants
As the same Purdue source points out, "Bare root trees and shrubs are most susceptible to transplant shock. Such 'stressed' plants are very fragile and are more susceptible to other stress factors." If you are used to buying plants at garden centers growing in flats or pots (or balled-and-burlapped, in the case of trees), then that terminology, "bare-root" might leave you scratching your head. But the definition of this term is surprisingly straightforward:
Bare-root plants are shipped with no soil "clothing" their roots. When you buy shrubs at the garden center, they may well come in containers, but when you order them from garden catalogs, they will often arrive as bare-root plants.
You may wonder if shipping a plant with no soil on its roots is harmful to the plant.
The fact is, not just any plant can be shipped bare-root. But certain plants -- for example, rose bushes -- can survive this method of transport in a sort of dormancy. But do not push your luck! Planting bare-root plants as soon as possible after they have arrived by mail is recommended. And if you cannot plant immediately, at least place the roots in water.
As faithful as you might be in following these instructions, though, there is simply a lot that can go wrong when installing new plants -- whether it be bare-root or not. One of the "stress factors" cited by Purdue is drainage problems. To improve the chances that your new Bradford pear tree (or other plant) will survive and thrive, ensure that the soil under and around your plant's roots drains well, so that water won't collect and rot the roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
What does one do to treat "fire blight" on Bradford pear trees? And what exactly is this horrible-sounding problem? No good can come, surely, from a condition that unites those two ominous words, given the destructive power of fire and the downcast mood evoked by "blight" (which, in the general sense, is defined as any cause of impairment, destruction, ruin, or frustration).
A reader wrote in to inquire about just this problem.
"The flowers on my Bradford pear trees turned black this year, and the new growth has died," he scribed. "The ends of the limbs are dead. What is wrong? Is this some sort of disease? And if so, how should I treat it?"
What Is Fire Blight, Exactly?
The symptoms that the reader reports indicate fire blight. Before you learn what to do about it, let's explore precisely what it is.
Fire blight (sometimes spelled as one word) is a bacterial disease. The type of bacterium that causes it has the Latin name of Erwinia amylovora. The disease attacks trees and bushes in the rose family. If you have not been introduced to the rose family, please note that this designation does not refer simply to the fragrant rose bushes with which you have probably been familiar since childhood. Both apple trees and pear trees belong to this plant family, for example.
Not only do the pear trees grown for their edible fruit succumb to fire blight, but also ornamental types such as 'Aristocrat' pear trees.
While Bradford pear trees are relatively resistant to fire blight, that does not mean that they are totally immune to it (especially in warmer climates). Blackened flowers are an indication of fire blight. Fire blight bacteria can move down a branch and form a canker; it can eventually kill the branch or even the entire specimen.
Remember that, since bacteria is at the root of the problem, treatment with a fungicide will have no effect on fire blight.
What to Do About Fire Blight on Bradford Pear Trees
Taking care of fire blight DIY-style is somewhat problematic, according to the University of California. They write, “Copper products are the only materials available to homeowners for fire blight control, and they often don’t provide adequate control even with multiple applications.” They suggest that some good can be done by a weak “Bordeaux mixture or other copper product applied several times as blossoms open,” but they go on to say that this will not solve your fire blight problem entirely.
Have an arborist look at your Bradford pear tree if it is infested with fire blight. The disease can be treated if it is caught in time. An arborist will locate, prune off and dispose of the affected branches to stop the spread of the bacteria. As professionals, arborists also have access to sprays to which the average homeowner would not have access. An arborist may elect to use a bactericide (with streptomycin sulfate) on your Bradford pear tree to control fire blight.
A reader wrote in to inquire about just this problem.
"The flowers on my Bradford pear trees turned black this year, and the new growth has died," he scribed. "The ends of the limbs are dead. What is wrong? Is this some sort of disease? And if so, how should I treat it?"
What Is Fire Blight, Exactly?
The symptoms that the reader reports indicate fire blight. Before you learn what to do about it, let's explore precisely what it is.
Fire blight (sometimes spelled as one word) is a bacterial disease. The type of bacterium that causes it has the Latin name of Erwinia amylovora. The disease attacks trees and bushes in the rose family. If you have not been introduced to the rose family, please note that this designation does not refer simply to the fragrant rose bushes with which you have probably been familiar since childhood. Both apple trees and pear trees belong to this plant family, for example.
Not only do the pear trees grown for their edible fruit succumb to fire blight, but also ornamental types such as 'Aristocrat' pear trees.
While Bradford pear trees are relatively resistant to fire blight, that does not mean that they are totally immune to it (especially in warmer climates). Blackened flowers are an indication of fire blight. Fire blight bacteria can move down a branch and form a canker; it can eventually kill the branch or even the entire specimen.
Remember that, since bacteria is at the root of the problem, treatment with a fungicide will have no effect on fire blight.
What to Do About Fire Blight on Bradford Pear Trees
Taking care of fire blight DIY-style is somewhat problematic, according to the University of California. They write, “Copper products are the only materials available to homeowners for fire blight control, and they often don’t provide adequate control even with multiple applications.” They suggest that some good can be done by a weak “Bordeaux mixture or other copper product applied several times as blossoms open,” but they go on to say that this will not solve your fire blight problem entirely.
Have an arborist look at your Bradford pear tree if it is infested with fire blight. The disease can be treated if it is caught in time. An arborist will locate, prune off and dispose of the affected branches to stop the spread of the bacteria. As professionals, arborists also have access to sprays to which the average homeowner would not have access. An arborist may elect to use a bactericide (with streptomycin sulfate) on your Bradford pear tree to control fire blight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
A reader recently related a scene on one of her trees that perfectly describes a common insect problem and prompted a response revealing how to control magnolia scale (Neolecanium cornuparvum, Thro). Here is how her email read:
"I have a magnolia tree that is looking brown and moldy. Upon closer inspection, I noticed scales on the branches that looked like ladybugs attached to the bark. I removed all the bugs from the branches and pruned off the dead branches.
Is there anything I can spray on the magnolia tree to give it a chance to survive?"
How Do You Control Magnolia Scale?
Her description was apt. What she had is, indeed, called magnolia "scale." The first thing that homeowners have to realize in learning how to control magnolia scale is that it looks and acts very little like a typical insect.
The life cycle of a magnolia scale insect is dominated by a long period during which it just looks like the proverbial "bump on a log." But do not let their innocent appearance fool you, because they are sucking fluids out of your plants. There are two general groups of scale (although there are thousands of different species): the armored-body types and the soft-body types. Magnolia scale belongs to the latter group.
Due to their "inanimate" appearance, however, people are often caught off-guard when they finally witness evidence of an infestation. Worse, they may misdiagnose the situation as a mold problem or even an ant problem (ants are attracted to the honeydew excreted by magnolia scale, as is explained in this article on organic ant control).
And yes, there is an insecticidal spray you can apply to fight the problem. But for effective magnolia scale control, it is essential that you understand the scale insect's life cycle, because that cycle is what determines when to spray with insecticide to control magnolia scale.
The Life Cycle of the Magnolia Scale
Scale insects pass through stages (phases) in their life cycle called "instars." The Penn State Department of Entomology explains the life cycle of these insects; a summary of their explanation follows:
The insect overwinters at the tips of the tree's branches in what is known as the "nymph" instar. These nymphs start feeding in spring and reach maturity in the middle of the summer, at which time mating occurs. "Females later give birth to living young called crawlers in late August or early September." But, soon after, the crawling stops, and they will cling to the very twigs upon which overwintering will take place -- thus bringing us full circle.
When to Spray With Insecticide to Kill Scale Insects
To control magnolia scale successfully, you must spray the insecticide (for example, malathion or acephate) at the right time in this insect's life cycle (namely, when it is in the crawler stage). These insects are more vulnerable to sprays at that particular time in their life cycle than at other periods, and that time is generally late summer. The Cornell Entomology Department explains that, once the scale insect progresses past the crawler stage in its life cycle, "the exoskeleton hardens, making it less susceptible to contact insecticides."
Since the insects are at the crawler stage in late summer, then, that is the best time to spray (aim for September). If you wish to try an organic insecticide, try neem oil.
"I have a magnolia tree that is looking brown and moldy. Upon closer inspection, I noticed scales on the branches that looked like ladybugs attached to the bark. I removed all the bugs from the branches and pruned off the dead branches.
Is there anything I can spray on the magnolia tree to give it a chance to survive?"
How Do You Control Magnolia Scale?
Her description was apt. What she had is, indeed, called magnolia "scale." The first thing that homeowners have to realize in learning how to control magnolia scale is that it looks and acts very little like a typical insect.
The life cycle of a magnolia scale insect is dominated by a long period during which it just looks like the proverbial "bump on a log." But do not let their innocent appearance fool you, because they are sucking fluids out of your plants. There are two general groups of scale (although there are thousands of different species): the armored-body types and the soft-body types. Magnolia scale belongs to the latter group.
Due to their "inanimate" appearance, however, people are often caught off-guard when they finally witness evidence of an infestation. Worse, they may misdiagnose the situation as a mold problem or even an ant problem (ants are attracted to the honeydew excreted by magnolia scale, as is explained in this article on organic ant control).
And yes, there is an insecticidal spray you can apply to fight the problem. But for effective magnolia scale control, it is essential that you understand the scale insect's life cycle, because that cycle is what determines when to spray with insecticide to control magnolia scale.
The Life Cycle of the Magnolia Scale
Scale insects pass through stages (phases) in their life cycle called "instars." The Penn State Department of Entomology explains the life cycle of these insects; a summary of their explanation follows:
The insect overwinters at the tips of the tree's branches in what is known as the "nymph" instar. These nymphs start feeding in spring and reach maturity in the middle of the summer, at which time mating occurs. "Females later give birth to living young called crawlers in late August or early September." But, soon after, the crawling stops, and they will cling to the very twigs upon which overwintering will take place -- thus bringing us full circle.
When to Spray With Insecticide to Kill Scale Insects
To control magnolia scale successfully, you must spray the insecticide (for example, malathion or acephate) at the right time in this insect's life cycle (namely, when it is in the crawler stage). These insects are more vulnerable to sprays at that particular time in their life cycle than at other periods, and that time is generally late summer. The Cornell Entomology Department explains that, once the scale insect progresses past the crawler stage in its life cycle, "the exoskeleton hardens, making it less susceptible to contact insecticides."
Since the insects are at the crawler stage in late summer, then, that is the best time to spray (aim for September). If you wish to try an organic insecticide, try neem oil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
A relative of willow, aspen, alder, ponderosa pine and snowberry, growing chokecherry trees are commonly found in the foothills and mountain canyons, at elevation of 4,900 to 10,200 feet and along streams or other damp areas. Let’s learn more about how to use chokecherries in the home landscape.
What is a Chokecherry?
So, what is a chokecherry? Growing chokecherry trees are large suckering shrubs (small trees) that are indigenous to the Southeastern United States but may be grown as a perennial landscape specimen elsewhere. Prunus viginiana can attain heights of up to 41 feet tall with a canopy of 28 feet across; of course, this is extremely rare and generally the plant can be maintained to a size of about 12 feet tall by 10 feet wide. Chokecherry trees bear 3- to 6-inch long creamy white blooms, which become dark red fleshy fruit, maturing into a mature purple black with a pit in the center. This fruit is used to make jams, jellies, syrups and wines. The bark has at times been used to flavor cough syrups. Native Americans utilized the bark extract as a cure for diarrhea. Fruit from growing chokecherry trees was added to pemmican and used to treat canker sores and cold sores. Leaves and twigs were steeped to create a tea to ease colds and rheumatism while the wood of the chokecherry was made into arrows, bows and pipe stems.
How to Use Chokecherry in the Landscape
Chokecherry is commonly used as a windbreak on farms, riparian plantings, and for highway beautification. Due to its suckering habitat (and potential toxicity), care should be take when determining where to plant chokecherries. In the garden landscape, chokecherry may be utilized as a screen or in mass plantings, being aware of its propensity for suckering and multiplying. Also, keep in mind that deer love to graze on chokecherry trees, so if you don’t want deer, you don’t want chokecherry trees.
As a landscape planting, you can grow and harvest chokecherry fruit in the fall; the later the reaping, the sweeter the fruit. Remove the toxic stems and leaves when cleaning the berries and do not crush the seeds when cooking or juice extracting. Thus, common sense would tell you not to put the berries in the blender! Chokecherry fruit is a rich source of dietary fiber with 68 percent of the daily recommended allowance, 37 percent DRA of vitamin K, and a terrific source of manganese, potassium and vitamin B6 with just 158 calories per half cup.
Chokecherry Planting Instructions
Chokecherry shrubs grow most abundantly in moist soils but are adaptable to a variety of soil mediums in the soil pH arena of 5.0 to 8.0. Cold hardy to USDA zone 2, wind resistant, moderately drought and shade tolerant, chokecherry planting instructions are pretty minimal as it is not particularly picky about where it is situated. That said, in nature, growing chokeberry trees are often found near water sources and will, thus, be most lush with adequate irrigation while full sun also promotes fruiting.
Additional Information on Growing Chokecherry Trees
In the wild, chokecherry is primarily noted for its role in providing habitat, as a valuable food source for wildlife and watershed protection. All parts of the growing chokecherry trees are eaten by large mammals such as bears, moose, coyotes, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, elk and deer. Birds munch on its fruit, and even domestic cattle and sheep browse on the chokecherry. The leaves, stems and seeds contain a toxin, called hydrocyanic acid, which may rarely cause poisoning in domestic animals. Livestock must eat significant quantities of the toxic plant parts which do not normally occur except in times of drought/famine. Poisoning signs are distress, bluish tinge to the mouth, rapid breathing, salivation, muscle spasm, and finally coma and death.
What is a Chokecherry?
So, what is a chokecherry? Growing chokecherry trees are large suckering shrubs (small trees) that are indigenous to the Southeastern United States but may be grown as a perennial landscape specimen elsewhere. Prunus viginiana can attain heights of up to 41 feet tall with a canopy of 28 feet across; of course, this is extremely rare and generally the plant can be maintained to a size of about 12 feet tall by 10 feet wide. Chokecherry trees bear 3- to 6-inch long creamy white blooms, which become dark red fleshy fruit, maturing into a mature purple black with a pit in the center. This fruit is used to make jams, jellies, syrups and wines. The bark has at times been used to flavor cough syrups. Native Americans utilized the bark extract as a cure for diarrhea. Fruit from growing chokecherry trees was added to pemmican and used to treat canker sores and cold sores. Leaves and twigs were steeped to create a tea to ease colds and rheumatism while the wood of the chokecherry was made into arrows, bows and pipe stems.
How to Use Chokecherry in the Landscape
Chokecherry is commonly used as a windbreak on farms, riparian plantings, and for highway beautification. Due to its suckering habitat (and potential toxicity), care should be take when determining where to plant chokecherries. In the garden landscape, chokecherry may be utilized as a screen or in mass plantings, being aware of its propensity for suckering and multiplying. Also, keep in mind that deer love to graze on chokecherry trees, so if you don’t want deer, you don’t want chokecherry trees.
As a landscape planting, you can grow and harvest chokecherry fruit in the fall; the later the reaping, the sweeter the fruit. Remove the toxic stems and leaves when cleaning the berries and do not crush the seeds when cooking or juice extracting. Thus, common sense would tell you not to put the berries in the blender! Chokecherry fruit is a rich source of dietary fiber with 68 percent of the daily recommended allowance, 37 percent DRA of vitamin K, and a terrific source of manganese, potassium and vitamin B6 with just 158 calories per half cup.
Chokecherry Planting Instructions
Chokecherry shrubs grow most abundantly in moist soils but are adaptable to a variety of soil mediums in the soil pH arena of 5.0 to 8.0. Cold hardy to USDA zone 2, wind resistant, moderately drought and shade tolerant, chokecherry planting instructions are pretty minimal as it is not particularly picky about where it is situated. That said, in nature, growing chokeberry trees are often found near water sources and will, thus, be most lush with adequate irrigation while full sun also promotes fruiting.
Additional Information on Growing Chokecherry Trees
In the wild, chokecherry is primarily noted for its role in providing habitat, as a valuable food source for wildlife and watershed protection. All parts of the growing chokecherry trees are eaten by large mammals such as bears, moose, coyotes, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, elk and deer. Birds munch on its fruit, and even domestic cattle and sheep browse on the chokecherry. The leaves, stems and seeds contain a toxin, called hydrocyanic acid, which may rarely cause poisoning in domestic animals. Livestock must eat significant quantities of the toxic plant parts which do not normally occur except in times of drought/famine. Poisoning signs are distress, bluish tinge to the mouth, rapid breathing, salivation, muscle spasm, and finally coma and death.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Yangmei fruit trees (Myrica rubra) are predominantly found in China where they are cultivated for their fruit and used as an ornamental along streets and in parks. They are also referred to as Chinese bayberry, Japanese bayberry, Yumberry, or Chinese strawberry trees. Because they are indigenous to eastern Asia, you’re probably not familiar with the tree or its fruit and right about now are wondering what the heck is yangmei fruit. Read on to find out about growing Chinese bayberry trees and other interesting Chinese bayberry info.
What is Yangmei Fruit?
Yangmei fruit trees are evergreens that produce purplish round fruit that looks somewhat like a berry, hence their alternate name of Chinese strawberry. The fruit is actually not a berry, however, but a drupe like cherries. That means that there is a single stone seed in the center of the fruit surrounded by juicy pulp.
The fruit is sweet/tart and high in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The fruit is often used to make healthy juices as well as being canned, dried, pickled and even made into an alcoholic wine-like beverage. More often marketed as “Yumberry,” production has increased rapidly in China and is now also being imported into the United States.
Additional Chinese Bayberry Info
Chinese bayberry is of significant economic value south of the Yangtze River in China. In Japan, it is the prefectural flower of Kochi and the prefectural tree of Tokushima where it is commonly referenced in ancient Japanese poems. The tree has been of medicinal use for over 2,000 years for its digestive qualities. The bark is used as an astringent and to treat arsenic poisoning as well as skin disorders, wounds and ulcers. Seeds are used to treat cholera, heart problems and stomach issues like ulcers.
Modern medicine is looking at the high levels of antioxidants in the fruit. They are believed to sweep free radicals completely from the body. They also protect the brain and nervous system and are purported to prevent cataracts, skin aging, and to relieve arthritis. The fruit juice has also been used to reduce blood pressure and to restore the malleability of blood vessels as well as to treat diabetes.
Growing Chinese Bayberry
It is a small to medium sized tree with smooth gray bark and a rounded habit. The tree is dioecious, meaning male and female flowers bloom on individual trees. When immature, the fruit is green and matures into a dark red to purple-red color. If you’re interested in growing your own Chinese bayberry plants, they are hardy to USDA zone 10 and thrive in sub-tropical, coastal regions. Yangmei do best in sun to partial shade. They have a shallow root system that does best in sandy, loamy, or clay soil with excellent drainage and that is either slightly acidic or neutral.
What is Yangmei Fruit?
Yangmei fruit trees are evergreens that produce purplish round fruit that looks somewhat like a berry, hence their alternate name of Chinese strawberry. The fruit is actually not a berry, however, but a drupe like cherries. That means that there is a single stone seed in the center of the fruit surrounded by juicy pulp.
The fruit is sweet/tart and high in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The fruit is often used to make healthy juices as well as being canned, dried, pickled and even made into an alcoholic wine-like beverage. More often marketed as “Yumberry,” production has increased rapidly in China and is now also being imported into the United States.
Additional Chinese Bayberry Info
Chinese bayberry is of significant economic value south of the Yangtze River in China. In Japan, it is the prefectural flower of Kochi and the prefectural tree of Tokushima where it is commonly referenced in ancient Japanese poems. The tree has been of medicinal use for over 2,000 years for its digestive qualities. The bark is used as an astringent and to treat arsenic poisoning as well as skin disorders, wounds and ulcers. Seeds are used to treat cholera, heart problems and stomach issues like ulcers.
Modern medicine is looking at the high levels of antioxidants in the fruit. They are believed to sweep free radicals completely from the body. They also protect the brain and nervous system and are purported to prevent cataracts, skin aging, and to relieve arthritis. The fruit juice has also been used to reduce blood pressure and to restore the malleability of blood vessels as well as to treat diabetes.
Growing Chinese Bayberry
It is a small to medium sized tree with smooth gray bark and a rounded habit. The tree is dioecious, meaning male and female flowers bloom on individual trees. When immature, the fruit is green and matures into a dark red to purple-red color. If you’re interested in growing your own Chinese bayberry plants, they are hardy to USDA zone 10 and thrive in sub-tropical, coastal regions. Yangmei do best in sun to partial shade. They have a shallow root system that does best in sandy, loamy, or clay soil with excellent drainage and that is either slightly acidic or neutral.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The Chilean myrtle tree is native to Chile and western Argentina. Ancient groves exist in these areas with trees that are up to 600 years old. These plants have little cold tolerance and should be grown only in United States Department of Agriculture zone 8 and above. Other regions will have to utilize a greenhouse to enjoy the plant. Among the interesting tidbits of Chilean myrtle information is its use as a medicinal and its inclusion as a bonsai species of note.
Chilean Myrtle Information
Chilean myrtle trees go by many other names. Among these are Arrayan, Palo Colorado, Temu, Collimamul (kellumamul-orange wood), Short Leaf Stopper and its scientific designation, Luma apiculata. It is a lovely evergreen tree with glossy green leaves and edible fruits. In its wild habitat, the plant is protected in large forests situated along major water bodies. Trees can reach 60 feet or more in the wild, but in the home landscape, the plants tend to be large shrubs to small trees.
Chilean myrtle is an evergreen tree with cinnamon sloughing bark that reveals a creamy orange pith. The shiny leaves are oval to elliptical, waxy and bear a faint lemon scent. Plants in cultivation reach 10 to 20 feet in height. The flowers are an inch across, white and have prominent anthers, giving the bloom a tasseled appearance. They are attractive to bees, which make a tasty honey from the nectar. The berries are deeply purple black, rounded and very sweet. Fruits are made into beverages and used in baking. The tree is also popular as a bonsai. Interestingly, the inner bark foams much like soap.
Growing Chilean Myrtle Plants
This is a very adaptive plant which does well in full to partial sun and can even thrive in shade, but flower and fruit production may be compromised. Chilean myrtles preferred soil that is acidic and well drained. Organic rich soil develops the healthiest trees. A key to Chilean myrtle care is plenty of water but they cannot support themselves in boggy soil. It makes an excellent stand-alone specimen or produces a lovely hedge. These trees can also withstand a great deal of abuse, which is why they make such excellent bonsai selections. Luma apiculata can be a difficult tree to source but many online vendors have young trees available. California has been commercially growing Chilean myrtle plants successfully since the late 1800’s.
Chilean Myrtle Care
Provided the plant is kept moist and in a high humidity area, care for Chilean myrtle is easy. Young plants benefit from fertilizer in spring during the first few years. In containers, fertilize the plant every month. A thick layer of mulch around the root zone prevents competitive weeds and grass, and slowly enhances the soil. Keep the tree well watered, especially in summer. Prune young trees to promote a healthy canopy and dense growth.
If you are growing in an area that will experience frost, container growth is preferred. Bring in plants before freezes are expected. During winter, reduce watering by half and keep the plant in a brightly lit area. Container grown plants and bonsai should be repotted every few years. Chilean myrtle has no listed pests and few disease issues.
Chilean Myrtle Information
Chilean myrtle trees go by many other names. Among these are Arrayan, Palo Colorado, Temu, Collimamul (kellumamul-orange wood), Short Leaf Stopper and its scientific designation, Luma apiculata. It is a lovely evergreen tree with glossy green leaves and edible fruits. In its wild habitat, the plant is protected in large forests situated along major water bodies. Trees can reach 60 feet or more in the wild, but in the home landscape, the plants tend to be large shrubs to small trees.
Chilean myrtle is an evergreen tree with cinnamon sloughing bark that reveals a creamy orange pith. The shiny leaves are oval to elliptical, waxy and bear a faint lemon scent. Plants in cultivation reach 10 to 20 feet in height. The flowers are an inch across, white and have prominent anthers, giving the bloom a tasseled appearance. They are attractive to bees, which make a tasty honey from the nectar. The berries are deeply purple black, rounded and very sweet. Fruits are made into beverages and used in baking. The tree is also popular as a bonsai. Interestingly, the inner bark foams much like soap.
Growing Chilean Myrtle Plants
This is a very adaptive plant which does well in full to partial sun and can even thrive in shade, but flower and fruit production may be compromised. Chilean myrtles preferred soil that is acidic and well drained. Organic rich soil develops the healthiest trees. A key to Chilean myrtle care is plenty of water but they cannot support themselves in boggy soil. It makes an excellent stand-alone specimen or produces a lovely hedge. These trees can also withstand a great deal of abuse, which is why they make such excellent bonsai selections. Luma apiculata can be a difficult tree to source but many online vendors have young trees available. California has been commercially growing Chilean myrtle plants successfully since the late 1800’s.
Chilean Myrtle Care
Provided the plant is kept moist and in a high humidity area, care for Chilean myrtle is easy. Young plants benefit from fertilizer in spring during the first few years. In containers, fertilize the plant every month. A thick layer of mulch around the root zone prevents competitive weeds and grass, and slowly enhances the soil. Keep the tree well watered, especially in summer. Prune young trees to promote a healthy canopy and dense growth.
If you are growing in an area that will experience frost, container growth is preferred. Bring in plants before freezes are expected. During winter, reduce watering by half and keep the plant in a brightly lit area. Container grown plants and bonsai should be repotted every few years. Chilean myrtle has no listed pests and few disease issues.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus) get their name from properties of the seed within the edible berries that are said to reduce libido. This property also explains another common name—Monk’s pepper. Chaste tree trimming is an important part of caring for the tree. Once you know when and how to prune chaste trees, you can keep them looking neat and blooming all summer.
Chaste Tree Pruning Info
There are several reasons to prune a chaste tree. Left to their own devices, they grow 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, but you can control the size through pruning chaste trees. You can also control the shape by chaste tree trimming. Carefully placed cuts can encourage the shrub to put on new growth. Another type of pruning, called deadheading, is important to keep chaste trees blooming all summer.
When to Prune Chaste Trees
The best time to prune a chaste tree is in late winter. Even if you’ve never pruned a tree or shrub before, you can prune a chaste tree. These trees are very forgiving and quickly grow back to cover mistakes. In fact, you can cut off the entire tree at ground level and it will regrow at an astonishing pace.
How to Prune a Chaste Tree
In spring and summer, clip off the spent flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. This allows the plant to put its resources into making flowers rather than nurturing seeds. If you remove the flower spikes throughout the first half of the season, the tree may continue blooming into early fall. In winter, remove weak, twiggy growth from the center of the plant to keep it looking tidy. This is also the time to prune to encourage branching. Make cuts all the way back to a side branch whenever possible. If you must shorten rather than remove a branch, cut just above a twig or bud. New growth will take off in the direction of the bud.
Pruning chaste trees to remove the lower limbs that droop and hang close to the ground is optional, but it you remove these branches it will make lawn and garden maintenance much easier, and you’ll be able to grow ornamentals under the tree.
Chaste Tree Pruning Info
There are several reasons to prune a chaste tree. Left to their own devices, they grow 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, but you can control the size through pruning chaste trees. You can also control the shape by chaste tree trimming. Carefully placed cuts can encourage the shrub to put on new growth. Another type of pruning, called deadheading, is important to keep chaste trees blooming all summer.
When to Prune Chaste Trees
The best time to prune a chaste tree is in late winter. Even if you’ve never pruned a tree or shrub before, you can prune a chaste tree. These trees are very forgiving and quickly grow back to cover mistakes. In fact, you can cut off the entire tree at ground level and it will regrow at an astonishing pace.
How to Prune a Chaste Tree
In spring and summer, clip off the spent flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. This allows the plant to put its resources into making flowers rather than nurturing seeds. If you remove the flower spikes throughout the first half of the season, the tree may continue blooming into early fall. In winter, remove weak, twiggy growth from the center of the plant to keep it looking tidy. This is also the time to prune to encourage branching. Make cuts all the way back to a side branch whenever possible. If you must shorten rather than remove a branch, cut just above a twig or bud. New growth will take off in the direction of the bud.
Pruning chaste trees to remove the lower limbs that droop and hang close to the ground is optional, but it you remove these branches it will make lawn and garden maintenance much easier, and you’ll be able to grow ornamentals under the tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Carrotwoods (Cupaniopsis anacardioides) are named for their bright orange wood concealed under a layer of bark. These attractive little trees fit into almost any size landscape, but are carrotwood tree roots invasive? Find out about the invasive potential of these trees as well as how to grow them in this article.
Carrotwood Tree Information
What is a carrotwood tree? Growing only 30 to 40 feet tall with a spread of twenty to thirty feet, carrotwoods are decorative little trees with a lot of potential in the home landscape. Many small trees are a disaster around patios and decks because they drop litter in the form of leaves, flowers and fruit, but carrotwoods are neat trees that don’t require constant cleanup. Their leathery, evergreen leaves create year-round interest. That being said, in warm, moist climates such as those found in Hawaii and Florida, carrotwood trees can become an ecological disaster. They readily escape cultivation and take root in unwanted places. They don’t have the natural controls that are present in their native Australia and New Guinea regions, so they spread to crowd out native species. Before planting a carrotwood tree, consult your local Cooperative Extension agent about the tree’s invasive potential in your area.
How to Plant Carrotwood Trees
Plant carrotwood trees in a sunny location with average, moderately moist soil. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Set the tree in the hole and backfill with the soil you removed from the hole. It’s a good idea to fill the hole with water when it’s half full of soil to allow any air pockets to settle, and then continue to backfill until the soil in the hole is level with the surrounding soil. Don’t mound the excess soil around the base of the tree. Once the hole is full, press down gently with your foot.
Carrotwood Tree Care
This lovely little tree looks light and airy and makes a well-behaved street tree. It’s right at home growing in the lawn as a specimen or providing light shade for a patio. Slow growth and limited size means that it won’t take over small yards. The tree is undemanding, and nothing could be easier than carrotwood tree care. Newly planted trees need weekly watering in the absence of rain until they become established. Once they are growing on their own, they only need water during prolonged drought.
They don’t usually need fertilizer, but if you feel that your tree isn’t growing as it should, sprinkle a little complete and balanced fertilizer around the root zone. You can grow a carrotwood tree as a single-trunked specimen or with multiple trunks. More trunks means a wider spread, so allow room for it to grow. Creating a single-trunked tree is simply a matter of removing unwanted stems.
Carrotwood Tree Information
What is a carrotwood tree? Growing only 30 to 40 feet tall with a spread of twenty to thirty feet, carrotwoods are decorative little trees with a lot of potential in the home landscape. Many small trees are a disaster around patios and decks because they drop litter in the form of leaves, flowers and fruit, but carrotwoods are neat trees that don’t require constant cleanup. Their leathery, evergreen leaves create year-round interest. That being said, in warm, moist climates such as those found in Hawaii and Florida, carrotwood trees can become an ecological disaster. They readily escape cultivation and take root in unwanted places. They don’t have the natural controls that are present in their native Australia and New Guinea regions, so they spread to crowd out native species. Before planting a carrotwood tree, consult your local Cooperative Extension agent about the tree’s invasive potential in your area.
How to Plant Carrotwood Trees
Plant carrotwood trees in a sunny location with average, moderately moist soil. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Set the tree in the hole and backfill with the soil you removed from the hole. It’s a good idea to fill the hole with water when it’s half full of soil to allow any air pockets to settle, and then continue to backfill until the soil in the hole is level with the surrounding soil. Don’t mound the excess soil around the base of the tree. Once the hole is full, press down gently with your foot.
Carrotwood Tree Care
This lovely little tree looks light and airy and makes a well-behaved street tree. It’s right at home growing in the lawn as a specimen or providing light shade for a patio. Slow growth and limited size means that it won’t take over small yards. The tree is undemanding, and nothing could be easier than carrotwood tree care. Newly planted trees need weekly watering in the absence of rain until they become established. Once they are growing on their own, they only need water during prolonged drought.
They don’t usually need fertilizer, but if you feel that your tree isn’t growing as it should, sprinkle a little complete and balanced fertilizer around the root zone. You can grow a carrotwood tree as a single-trunked specimen or with multiple trunks. More trunks means a wider spread, so allow room for it to grow. Creating a single-trunked tree is simply a matter of removing unwanted stems.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
While little known to many people, carob trees (Ceratonia siliqua) have a lot to offer to the home landscape given suitable growing conditions. This age-old tree has an interesting history as well as a number of uses. Keep reading for more carob tree information.
What are Carobs?
Chocolate, how do I love thee. Let me count the ways…and calories. Made up of about half fat, chocolate addictions (such as mine) beg for a solution. Carob is just that solution. Rich not only in sucrose but also 8% protein, containing vitamins A and B plus several minerals, and about one-third the calories of chocolate without the fat (yep, fat free!), carob makes an ideal substitute for chocolate.
So, what are carobs? Carob growing in the their native habitat can be found in the eastern Mediterranean, probably in the Middle East, where it has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Carob growing has also been referred to in the Bible and was known to the ancient Greeks as well. In the Bible, the carob tree is also called St. John’s bean or locust bean in reference to the “locusts” eaten by John the Baptist, which were represented by the hanging pods or legumes of the plant. A member of the Fabaceae or Legume family, carob tree information states that it is an evergreen tree with pinnate leaves of two to six oval pairs that grows to about 50 to 55 feet tall.
Additional Carob Tree Information
Cultivated around the world for its sweet and nutritious fruits, carob seeds were once used to weigh gold, which is where the word ‘carat’ is derived. The Spanish brought carob growing to Mexico and South America, and the British introduced carob trees to South Africa, India and Australia. Introduced into the United States in 1854, carob trees are now a familiar sight throughout California where its warm, drier climate is ideal for carob growing. Thriving in Mediterranean-like climes, carob grows well anywhere that citrus grows and is grown for its fruit (pod), which is most familiarly known for its use ground into a flour and substituted for cocoa beans. The long, flat brown carob pods (4 to 12 inches) also contain a polysaccharide gum, which is odorless, tasteless and colorless, and is used in many products. Livestock may also be fed carob pods, while people have long used the pod husks for medicinal purposes such as that of a throat balm or chewing lozenge to relieve hoarseness.
How to Grow Carob Trees
Sowing seed directly is probably the most common method for how to grow carob trees. Fresh seeds germinate quickly, while dried seeds need to be scarred and then soaked for a period of time until swollen two to three times in size. Traditionally planted in flats and then transplanted once the seedlings attain a second set of leaves, germination for carob trees is only about 25 percent certain. Carob should be spaced 9 inches apart in the garden. For the home gardener, an established 1-gallon carob tree start might more prudently be purchased from a nursery. Keep in mind that conditions in your garden must closely mimic those of the Mediterranean, or grow carob in a greenhouse or in a container, which can be moved into a protected area indoors. Carob trees may be grown in USDA zones 9-11. Be patient as carob trees grow slowly at first but begin to bear in the sixth year of planting and may remain productive for 80 to 100 years.
Carob Tree Care
Carob tree care dictates establishing the carob tree in an area of the landscape in full sun and well drained soil. While carob can withstand drought and alkalinity, it does not tolerate acidic soil or overly wet conditions. Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate. Once established, carob trees are strong and resilient and are affected by few diseases or pests, although scale may be an issue. Severe infestation of these immovable armored insects may cause oddly shaped and yellowing leaves, oozing bark, and general stunting of the carob tree. Prune out any areas that are afflicted with scale.
Some other insects, such as predatory lady beetles or parasitic wasps, may afflict the carob as well and can be treated with horticultural oil if absolutely necessary. Really, the biggest threat to the carob is its dislike for soggy soil and overly wet conditions, which lead to stunted trees and inability to absorb nutrition, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Generally, an established plant will not need to be fertilized, but if these problems are plaguing the tree, a dose of fertilizer may be beneficial and, of course, cut back on irrigation.
What are Carobs?
Chocolate, how do I love thee. Let me count the ways…and calories. Made up of about half fat, chocolate addictions (such as mine) beg for a solution. Carob is just that solution. Rich not only in sucrose but also 8% protein, containing vitamins A and B plus several minerals, and about one-third the calories of chocolate without the fat (yep, fat free!), carob makes an ideal substitute for chocolate.
So, what are carobs? Carob growing in the their native habitat can be found in the eastern Mediterranean, probably in the Middle East, where it has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Carob growing has also been referred to in the Bible and was known to the ancient Greeks as well. In the Bible, the carob tree is also called St. John’s bean or locust bean in reference to the “locusts” eaten by John the Baptist, which were represented by the hanging pods or legumes of the plant. A member of the Fabaceae or Legume family, carob tree information states that it is an evergreen tree with pinnate leaves of two to six oval pairs that grows to about 50 to 55 feet tall.
Additional Carob Tree Information
Cultivated around the world for its sweet and nutritious fruits, carob seeds were once used to weigh gold, which is where the word ‘carat’ is derived. The Spanish brought carob growing to Mexico and South America, and the British introduced carob trees to South Africa, India and Australia. Introduced into the United States in 1854, carob trees are now a familiar sight throughout California where its warm, drier climate is ideal for carob growing. Thriving in Mediterranean-like climes, carob grows well anywhere that citrus grows and is grown for its fruit (pod), which is most familiarly known for its use ground into a flour and substituted for cocoa beans. The long, flat brown carob pods (4 to 12 inches) also contain a polysaccharide gum, which is odorless, tasteless and colorless, and is used in many products. Livestock may also be fed carob pods, while people have long used the pod husks for medicinal purposes such as that of a throat balm or chewing lozenge to relieve hoarseness.
How to Grow Carob Trees
Sowing seed directly is probably the most common method for how to grow carob trees. Fresh seeds germinate quickly, while dried seeds need to be scarred and then soaked for a period of time until swollen two to three times in size. Traditionally planted in flats and then transplanted once the seedlings attain a second set of leaves, germination for carob trees is only about 25 percent certain. Carob should be spaced 9 inches apart in the garden. For the home gardener, an established 1-gallon carob tree start might more prudently be purchased from a nursery. Keep in mind that conditions in your garden must closely mimic those of the Mediterranean, or grow carob in a greenhouse or in a container, which can be moved into a protected area indoors. Carob trees may be grown in USDA zones 9-11. Be patient as carob trees grow slowly at first but begin to bear in the sixth year of planting and may remain productive for 80 to 100 years.
Carob Tree Care
Carob tree care dictates establishing the carob tree in an area of the landscape in full sun and well drained soil. While carob can withstand drought and alkalinity, it does not tolerate acidic soil or overly wet conditions. Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate. Once established, carob trees are strong and resilient and are affected by few diseases or pests, although scale may be an issue. Severe infestation of these immovable armored insects may cause oddly shaped and yellowing leaves, oozing bark, and general stunting of the carob tree. Prune out any areas that are afflicted with scale.
Some other insects, such as predatory lady beetles or parasitic wasps, may afflict the carob as well and can be treated with horticultural oil if absolutely necessary. Really, the biggest threat to the carob is its dislike for soggy soil and overly wet conditions, which lead to stunted trees and inability to absorb nutrition, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Generally, an established plant will not need to be fertilized, but if these problems are plaguing the tree, a dose of fertilizer may be beneficial and, of course, cut back on irrigation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Also called Sabal palms, cabbage tree palms (Livistona australis) are a native American tree that ideal for warm, coastal areas. When planted as street trees or in groups, they give the entire area a tropical atmosphere. Showy white flowers on long, branching stalks bloom in early summer, followed by dark, edible berries in fall. The fruit is edible, but more appealing to wildlife than humans.
What are Cabbage Palms?
Cabbage palms are capable of reaching heights of 90 feet or more in the wild, but in cultivation they usually grow only 40 to 60 feet tall. The tree’s 18- to 24-inch wide trunk is topped by a rounded canopy of long fronds. It isn’t usually considered a good shade tree, but clusters of cabbage palms can provide moderate shade. The lower fronds sometimes drop from the tree leaving their base, called a boot, attached to the trunk. These boots create the cross-hatched pattern on the trunk of the tree. As the tree matures, the older boots fall off leaving the lower part of the trunk smooth.
Cabbage Palm Growing Region
The cabbage palm growing region includes USDA plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. Temperatures below 11 F. (-11 C.) can kill the plant. Cabbage palms are particularly well-adapted to the Southeast, and they are the state tree of both South Carolina and Florida. Nearly hurricane-proof, the tree remains standing against the wind long after pine trees snap in two and oaks are uprooted. Choose a sunny or partly shaded site in any well-drained soil. The hardest part about growing a cabbage palm tree is getting it planted just right. Take care with the roots when transplanting the tree. Cabbage palms are drought-tolerant, but only after all the roots that were damaged during transplanting regrow from the base of the tree. Until then, you’ll have to water deeply and often to make sure the tree gets the moisture it needs.
Cabbage palm care is easy once the tree is established. In fact, it will do just fine if left to its own devices. One thing you may want to do is remove the little seedlings that come up where the fruit falls to the ground because they can become weedy.
What are Cabbage Palms?
Cabbage palms are capable of reaching heights of 90 feet or more in the wild, but in cultivation they usually grow only 40 to 60 feet tall. The tree’s 18- to 24-inch wide trunk is topped by a rounded canopy of long fronds. It isn’t usually considered a good shade tree, but clusters of cabbage palms can provide moderate shade. The lower fronds sometimes drop from the tree leaving their base, called a boot, attached to the trunk. These boots create the cross-hatched pattern on the trunk of the tree. As the tree matures, the older boots fall off leaving the lower part of the trunk smooth.
Cabbage Palm Growing Region
The cabbage palm growing region includes USDA plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. Temperatures below 11 F. (-11 C.) can kill the plant. Cabbage palms are particularly well-adapted to the Southeast, and they are the state tree of both South Carolina and Florida. Nearly hurricane-proof, the tree remains standing against the wind long after pine trees snap in two and oaks are uprooted. Choose a sunny or partly shaded site in any well-drained soil. The hardest part about growing a cabbage palm tree is getting it planted just right. Take care with the roots when transplanting the tree. Cabbage palms are drought-tolerant, but only after all the roots that were damaged during transplanting regrow from the base of the tree. Until then, you’ll have to water deeply and often to make sure the tree gets the moisture it needs.
Cabbage palm care is easy once the tree is established. In fact, it will do just fine if left to its own devices. One thing you may want to do is remove the little seedlings that come up where the fruit falls to the ground because they can become weedy.
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