文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Tamarack tree planting is not difficult, nor is care for tamarack trees once they are established. Read on for information about how to grow a tamarack tree.
Tamarack Tree Information
Tamaracks (Larix laricina) are medium-sized deciduous conifers that are native to this country. They grow wild from the Atlantic all the way across to central Alaska. If you look for tamarack tree information, you may find it under other common names for this tree, like American larch, eastern larch, Alaska larch or hackmatack.
Given the huge range of the tamarack, it tolerates extremely varied climatic conditions, from -30 degrees to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (34 to 43 C.). It can thrive in regions where rainfall is only 7 inches annually and also where it is 55 inches annually. That means that wherever you live in the country, growing tamarack trees may be possible. The trees also accept varied types of soil. However, tamaracks grow best in wet or at least moist soil with a high organic content like sphagnum peat and woody peat. They thrive on moist, well-drained loamy soils beside rivers, lakes or swamps.
Tamarack Tree Planting
Tamaracks are attractive trees with needles that turn brilliant yellow in autumn. These trees could be used as ornamentals far more than they are currently. If you are interested in tamarack tree planting, sow the seeds in warm, moist organic soil. Be sure to clear all brush and weeds before you begin. Your seeds need full light to germinate. In nature, germination rates are low since rodents feast on the seeds, but in cultivation, this should be less of a problem. Tamaracks do not support shade, so plant these conifers in open areas. Space the trees well apart when you are doing tamarack tree planting, so that the young trees do not shade one another.
How to Grow a Tamarack Tree
Once your seeds become seedlings, be sure to provide a constant water supply for them. Drought conditions can kill them. As long as they have full light and regular irrigation, they should thrive. If you are growing tamarack trees, you will find that they grow fast. Correctly planted, tamaracks are the fastest growing boreal conifers for their first 50 years. Expect your tree to live between 200 and 300 years. Care for tamarack trees is easy, once they are correctly established. They require virtually no work other than irrigation and keeping down competing trees. The greatest threat to the health of the trees in the wild is destruction by fire. Because their bark is so thin and their roots so shallow, even a light burn can kill them.
The tamarack foliage can be attacked by the larch sawfly and the larch casebearer. If your tree is attacked, consider biological control. Parasites of these pests are now available in commerce.
Tamarack Tree Information
Tamaracks (Larix laricina) are medium-sized deciduous conifers that are native to this country. They grow wild from the Atlantic all the way across to central Alaska. If you look for tamarack tree information, you may find it under other common names for this tree, like American larch, eastern larch, Alaska larch or hackmatack.
Given the huge range of the tamarack, it tolerates extremely varied climatic conditions, from -30 degrees to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (34 to 43 C.). It can thrive in regions where rainfall is only 7 inches annually and also where it is 55 inches annually. That means that wherever you live in the country, growing tamarack trees may be possible. The trees also accept varied types of soil. However, tamaracks grow best in wet or at least moist soil with a high organic content like sphagnum peat and woody peat. They thrive on moist, well-drained loamy soils beside rivers, lakes or swamps.
Tamarack Tree Planting
Tamaracks are attractive trees with needles that turn brilliant yellow in autumn. These trees could be used as ornamentals far more than they are currently. If you are interested in tamarack tree planting, sow the seeds in warm, moist organic soil. Be sure to clear all brush and weeds before you begin. Your seeds need full light to germinate. In nature, germination rates are low since rodents feast on the seeds, but in cultivation, this should be less of a problem. Tamaracks do not support shade, so plant these conifers in open areas. Space the trees well apart when you are doing tamarack tree planting, so that the young trees do not shade one another.
How to Grow a Tamarack Tree
Once your seeds become seedlings, be sure to provide a constant water supply for them. Drought conditions can kill them. As long as they have full light and regular irrigation, they should thrive. If you are growing tamarack trees, you will find that they grow fast. Correctly planted, tamaracks are the fastest growing boreal conifers for their first 50 years. Expect your tree to live between 200 and 300 years. Care for tamarack trees is easy, once they are correctly established. They require virtually no work other than irrigation and keeping down competing trees. The greatest threat to the health of the trees in the wild is destruction by fire. Because their bark is so thin and their roots so shallow, even a light burn can kill them.
The tamarack foliage can be attacked by the larch sawfly and the larch casebearer. If your tree is attacked, consider biological control. Parasites of these pests are now available in commerce.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Japanese snowbell trees are easy to care for, compact, spring-blooming trees. Because of all these things, they are perfect for moderate sized, low maintenance beautifying in places such as parking lot islands and along property borders. Keep reading to learn more Japanese snowbell information, such as planting Japanese snowbell trees and subsequent Japanese snowbell care.
Japanese Snowbell Information
Japanese snowbell trees (Styrax japonicus) are native to China, Japan, and Korea. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8a. They grow slowly to a height of 20 to 30 feet, with a spread of 15 to 25 feet.
In late spring or early summer, usually in May and June, they produce mildly fragrant white flowers. The flowers appear in clusters of small five petaled bells the show up very clearly as they hang down below the upward growing foliage. The flowers are replaced in summer by green, olive-like fruits that are long lasting and pleasant. Japanese snowbell trees are deciduous, but they’re not especially showy in the fall. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow (or occasionally red) and drop. Their most impressive season is spring.
Japanese Snowbell Care
Caring for a Japanese snowbell tree is very easy. The plant prefers partial shade in the warmer zones of its hardy climate (7 and 8), but in cooler areas, it can handle full sun. It does best in somewhat acidic, peaty soil. The ground should be kept moist with frequent watering, but not allowed to get soggy. Only some varieties are hardy down to zone 5, and they should be planted in a spot that’s sheltered from the winter winds.
Over time, the tree will grow up into an attractive spreading pattern. No real pruning is required, though you will probably want to remove the lowest branches as it matures to make way for pedestrian traffic or, even better, a bench underneath it.
Japanese Snowbell Information
Japanese snowbell trees (Styrax japonicus) are native to China, Japan, and Korea. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8a. They grow slowly to a height of 20 to 30 feet, with a spread of 15 to 25 feet.
In late spring or early summer, usually in May and June, they produce mildly fragrant white flowers. The flowers appear in clusters of small five petaled bells the show up very clearly as they hang down below the upward growing foliage. The flowers are replaced in summer by green, olive-like fruits that are long lasting and pleasant. Japanese snowbell trees are deciduous, but they’re not especially showy in the fall. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow (or occasionally red) and drop. Their most impressive season is spring.
Japanese Snowbell Care
Caring for a Japanese snowbell tree is very easy. The plant prefers partial shade in the warmer zones of its hardy climate (7 and 8), but in cooler areas, it can handle full sun. It does best in somewhat acidic, peaty soil. The ground should be kept moist with frequent watering, but not allowed to get soggy. Only some varieties are hardy down to zone 5, and they should be planted in a spot that’s sheltered from the winter winds.
Over time, the tree will grow up into an attractive spreading pattern. No real pruning is required, though you will probably want to remove the lowest branches as it matures to make way for pedestrian traffic or, even better, a bench underneath it.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Japanese cedar trees (Cryptomeria japonica) are lovely evergreens that become more splendid as they mature. When they are young, they grow in an attractive pyramid shape, but as they grow older, their crowns open further to form a narrow oval. The trunk is straight and tapered with spreading branches that droop toward the ground as the tree develops. Read on for Japanese cedar tree facts including how to care for Japanese cedar.
Japanese Cedar Tree Facts
Japanese cedar trees have many ornamental features. Their short, shiny needles are an eye-catching shade of blue-green, arranged in spirals pointing toward the tip of the stems, like foxtails. The foliage bronzes in winter. The wood is fragrant, waterproof, light and resilient. They can live over 600 years.
Japanese cedar facts include information about the mahogany colored bark. It peels off in long strips, making the tree ornamental all year long. When you are planting Japanese cedar, remember that the species tree can get to 80 or even 100 feet tall and 20 to 30 feet wide. Their size makes them excellent for windscreens, borders and groupings on large properties. A single tree can also work on smaller properties because of its relatively narrow canopy and slow rate of growth.
Planting Japanese Cedar
When you are planting Japanese cedar, select a site that offers moist, acidic, well-drained soil. Ideally, Japanese cedar trees prefer full sun locations, but they also tolerate partial shade. Choose a location with has some air circulation to combat diseases like leaf blight, but don’t pick a site that is exposed to strong winds.
Japanese Cedar Tree Care and Pruning
If you are wondering how to care for Japanese cedar, it isn’t difficult. You’ll want to water your Japanese cedar in dry weather. Irrigation is important to keep them alive and looking their best during drought. You can prune off any dead or broken branches to keep the tree’s shape attractive but, otherwise, annual pruning is not required for the health or structure of the tree.
If your yard is small, don’t plan on pruning Japanese cedar to make a tall tree work in a small space. Instead, plant a dwarf cultivar like ‘Globosa Nana,’ a compact tree that grows to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Japanese Cedar Tree Facts
Japanese cedar trees have many ornamental features. Their short, shiny needles are an eye-catching shade of blue-green, arranged in spirals pointing toward the tip of the stems, like foxtails. The foliage bronzes in winter. The wood is fragrant, waterproof, light and resilient. They can live over 600 years.
Japanese cedar facts include information about the mahogany colored bark. It peels off in long strips, making the tree ornamental all year long. When you are planting Japanese cedar, remember that the species tree can get to 80 or even 100 feet tall and 20 to 30 feet wide. Their size makes them excellent for windscreens, borders and groupings on large properties. A single tree can also work on smaller properties because of its relatively narrow canopy and slow rate of growth.
Planting Japanese Cedar
When you are planting Japanese cedar, select a site that offers moist, acidic, well-drained soil. Ideally, Japanese cedar trees prefer full sun locations, but they also tolerate partial shade. Choose a location with has some air circulation to combat diseases like leaf blight, but don’t pick a site that is exposed to strong winds.
Japanese Cedar Tree Care and Pruning
If you are wondering how to care for Japanese cedar, it isn’t difficult. You’ll want to water your Japanese cedar in dry weather. Irrigation is important to keep them alive and looking their best during drought. You can prune off any dead or broken branches to keep the tree’s shape attractive but, otherwise, annual pruning is not required for the health or structure of the tree.
If your yard is small, don’t plan on pruning Japanese cedar to make a tall tree work in a small space. Instead, plant a dwarf cultivar like ‘Globosa Nana,’ a compact tree that grows to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock trees are a popular conifer that is commonly used as either privacy shrubs or as visual anchor trees in the landscape. Most of the time, pruning hemlocks is not necessary, but occasionally weather damage, disease or competing main trunks on upright hemlocks can create the need for pruning hemlocks. Keep reading to learn how and when to prune hemlocks.
When to Prune Hemlocks
If you find that you need to prune your hemlock tree, the best time for trimming hemlocks is in either spring or early summer. At this time, the tree is getting ready for or is already in active growth and will recover quickly from any hemlock pruning that needs to be done. In the fall and winter, hemlocks are preparing to go dormant and are hardening themselves to be able to withstand the cold of winter. Pruning hemlock trees in fall or winter can confuse the tree, causing it to return to active growth rather than dormancy. At best, the new growth it does produce will be killed off in the cold and, at worst, the entire tree will be unable to withstand the winter cold and the entire tree will die.
How to Prune Hemlock Trees
Trimming Hemlock to Correct Damage from Weather or Disease
High winds or heavy snows can sometimes damage the branches of a hemlock and you may need to prune the tree in order to remove some of the damage or to help reshape the hemlock. Disease may also kill back some of the branches on the tree and you will need to remove the diseased branches. The first step in pruning hemlocks is use a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or pruning saw, depending on the size of the branches you need to prune. Clean and sharp pruning tools will help to prevent disease.
The next step in trimming hemlock branches is to select which branches need to be removed. Select the branches before you start trimming so that you do not over prune the tree accidentally. Then make your pruning cuts just above the needle whorls. Hemlock trees will grow new branches from the needle wholes and pruning just above them will ensure that the new branches come in properly. If damage to the hemlock tree is extensive, severe pruning may be needed. Hemlock trees can withstand severe pruning and will recover from losing as much as 50% of its branches.
Pruning Hemlocks to Remove Competing Main Trunks
Upright hemlock varieties look best when they have only one main trunks, so home owners often want to remove secondary upright trunks that may start to grow. These secondary trunks can be pruned back to their starting point on the main trunk or can be cut at any point along the trunk to stop its upward growth and encourage side growth instead.
When to Prune Hemlocks
If you find that you need to prune your hemlock tree, the best time for trimming hemlocks is in either spring or early summer. At this time, the tree is getting ready for or is already in active growth and will recover quickly from any hemlock pruning that needs to be done. In the fall and winter, hemlocks are preparing to go dormant and are hardening themselves to be able to withstand the cold of winter. Pruning hemlock trees in fall or winter can confuse the tree, causing it to return to active growth rather than dormancy. At best, the new growth it does produce will be killed off in the cold and, at worst, the entire tree will be unable to withstand the winter cold and the entire tree will die.
How to Prune Hemlock Trees
Trimming Hemlock to Correct Damage from Weather or Disease
High winds or heavy snows can sometimes damage the branches of a hemlock and you may need to prune the tree in order to remove some of the damage or to help reshape the hemlock. Disease may also kill back some of the branches on the tree and you will need to remove the diseased branches. The first step in pruning hemlocks is use a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or pruning saw, depending on the size of the branches you need to prune. Clean and sharp pruning tools will help to prevent disease.
The next step in trimming hemlock branches is to select which branches need to be removed. Select the branches before you start trimming so that you do not over prune the tree accidentally. Then make your pruning cuts just above the needle whorls. Hemlock trees will grow new branches from the needle wholes and pruning just above them will ensure that the new branches come in properly. If damage to the hemlock tree is extensive, severe pruning may be needed. Hemlock trees can withstand severe pruning and will recover from losing as much as 50% of its branches.
Pruning Hemlocks to Remove Competing Main Trunks
Upright hemlock varieties look best when they have only one main trunks, so home owners often want to remove secondary upright trunks that may start to grow. These secondary trunks can be pruned back to their starting point on the main trunk or can be cut at any point along the trunk to stop its upward growth and encourage side growth instead.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock woolly adelgids are small insects that can seriously damage or even kill hemlock trees. Is your tree at risk? Find out about hemlock woolly adelgid treatment and prevention in this article.
What are Woolly Adelgids?
Only about a sixteenth of an inch long, woolly adelgids (Adelges tsugae) have a huge impact on hemlock trees in the eastern part of North America. Their feeding practices cause needles and branches to brown and die, and if the infestation is left untreated, the tree starves to death. Here are some interesting facts about these tiny pests:
All woolly adelgids are female. They reproduce asexually. As they feed, they secrete waxy filaments that eventually cover their bodies. These filaments give them their “woolly” appearance. The woolly coat protects the insects and their eggs from predators. Woolly adelgids sleep through the summer and are active when temperatures cool.
Hemlock Woolly Adelgid Damage
The woolly adelgid is an aphid-like insect that can grow and reproduce on all types of hemlocks, but only the eastern and Carolina hemlocks decline and die from an infestation. Watch closely for hemlock woolly adelgid damage. Early detection gives your tree a much better chance of survival.
The insects feed by sucking sap from hemlock needles, and the needles die one by one. If nothing is done to stop the infestation, the entire branch may die. Here is a season-by-season list of danger signs: In spring, you may see orange-brown eggs when you look closely at the base of the needles. In early summer, the eggs hatch and upon close inspection you may be able to see tiny, reddish-brown, crawling insects. Summer is the easiest time to spot the insects. They go dormant during the heat of summer, but first they spin little white nests of a waxy, wooly-looking substance. The nests are much easier to see than the insects themselves. Woolly adelgids come out and begin feeding again in fall and winter.
Woolly Adelgid Control
The best treatment of woolly adelgids on a small tree is to spray the tree with horticultural oils. Spray in spring after the eggs hatch but while the insects are still crawling, and follow the label instructions. This method won’t work on large trees. They should be treated with a systemic insecticide by injection or soil treatment. These are short-term solutions.
The treatment must be repeated every year. There are no good organic treatment methods, but scientists are working with some of the woolly adelgid’s natural enemies to see if they can be used to protect hemlock trees.
What are Woolly Adelgids?
Only about a sixteenth of an inch long, woolly adelgids (Adelges tsugae) have a huge impact on hemlock trees in the eastern part of North America. Their feeding practices cause needles and branches to brown and die, and if the infestation is left untreated, the tree starves to death. Here are some interesting facts about these tiny pests:
All woolly adelgids are female. They reproduce asexually. As they feed, they secrete waxy filaments that eventually cover their bodies. These filaments give them their “woolly” appearance. The woolly coat protects the insects and their eggs from predators. Woolly adelgids sleep through the summer and are active when temperatures cool.
Hemlock Woolly Adelgid Damage
The woolly adelgid is an aphid-like insect that can grow and reproduce on all types of hemlocks, but only the eastern and Carolina hemlocks decline and die from an infestation. Watch closely for hemlock woolly adelgid damage. Early detection gives your tree a much better chance of survival.
The insects feed by sucking sap from hemlock needles, and the needles die one by one. If nothing is done to stop the infestation, the entire branch may die. Here is a season-by-season list of danger signs: In spring, you may see orange-brown eggs when you look closely at the base of the needles. In early summer, the eggs hatch and upon close inspection you may be able to see tiny, reddish-brown, crawling insects. Summer is the easiest time to spot the insects. They go dormant during the heat of summer, but first they spin little white nests of a waxy, wooly-looking substance. The nests are much easier to see than the insects themselves. Woolly adelgids come out and begin feeding again in fall and winter.
Woolly Adelgid Control
The best treatment of woolly adelgids on a small tree is to spray the tree with horticultural oils. Spray in spring after the eggs hatch but while the insects are still crawling, and follow the label instructions. This method won’t work on large trees. They should be treated with a systemic insecticide by injection or soil treatment. These are short-term solutions.
The treatment must be repeated every year. There are no good organic treatment methods, but scientists are working with some of the woolly adelgid’s natural enemies to see if they can be used to protect hemlock trees.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock trees are the Ferraris of the evergreen world — these graceful, drooping trees and shrubs are gorgeous additions to the landscape, but require very exacting conditions to do well. Like other beautiful and delicate things, if you can get hemlocks to thrive in your landscape, you’ll be the envy of your neighbors; but a hemlock in poor health will only make your home look sad and worn out. If you’re considering planting a hemlock in your yard as a specimen tree or for a unique hedge, read on to learn more about hemlock tree care.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
If you aren’t a resident of the southeastern United States, then you may have never heard of sugar hackberry trees. Also referred to as sugarberry or southern hackberry, what is a sugarberry tree? Keep reading to find out and learn some interesting sugar hackberry facts.
What is a Sugarberry Tree?
Native to the southeastern United States, sugar hackberry trees (Celtis laevigata) can be found growing along streams and flood plains. Although usually found in moist to wet soils, the tree adapts well to dry conditions.
This medium to large deciduous tree grows to around 60-80 feet in height with upright branching and a rounded spreading crown. With a relatively short life, less than 150 years, sugarberry is covered with light gray bark that is either smooth or slightly corky. In fact, its species name (laevigata) means smooth. Young branches are covered with tiny hairs that eventually become smooth. The leaves are 2-4 inches long and 1-2 inches wide and mildly serrated. These lance-shaped leaves are pale green on both surfaces with obvious veining.
In the spring, from April through May, sugar hackberry trees flower with insignificant greenish blooms. Females are solitary and male flowers are borne in clusters. Female blossoms become sugar hackberry fruit, in the form of berry-like drupes. Each drupe contains one round brown seed surrounded by sweet flesh. These deep purple drupes are a great favorite of many species of wildlife.
Sugar Hackberry Facts
Sugar hackberry is a southern version of common or northern hackberry (C. occidentalis) but differs from its northern cousin in several ways. First, the bark is less corky, whereas its northern counterpart exhibits distinctive warty bark. The leaves are narrower, it has a better resistance to witches’ broom, and is less winter hardy. Also, sugar hackberry fruit is juicier and sweeter. Speaking of the fruit, is sugarberry edible? Sugarberry was commonly used by many Native American tribes. The Comanche beat the fruit to a pulp and then mixed it with animal fat, rolled it into balls and roasted it in the fire. The resulting balls had a long shelf life and became nutritious food reserves.
Native people also had other uses for sugarberry fruit. The Houma used a decoction of bark and ground up shells to treat venereal disease, and a concentrate made from its bark was used to treat sore throats. The Navajo used leaves and branches, boiled down, to make a dark brown or red dye for wool. Some people still pick and use the fruit. Mature fruit can be picked from late summer until winter. It can then be air dried or soak the fruit overnight and rub the exterior off on a screen.
Sugarberry can be propagated via seed or cuttings. Seed must be stratified prior to use. Store wet seeds in a sealed container in the refrigerator at 41 degrees F. (5 C.) for 60-90 days. The stratified seed can then be sown in the spring or non-stratified seeds in the fall.
What is a Sugarberry Tree?
Native to the southeastern United States, sugar hackberry trees (Celtis laevigata) can be found growing along streams and flood plains. Although usually found in moist to wet soils, the tree adapts well to dry conditions.
This medium to large deciduous tree grows to around 60-80 feet in height with upright branching and a rounded spreading crown. With a relatively short life, less than 150 years, sugarberry is covered with light gray bark that is either smooth or slightly corky. In fact, its species name (laevigata) means smooth. Young branches are covered with tiny hairs that eventually become smooth. The leaves are 2-4 inches long and 1-2 inches wide and mildly serrated. These lance-shaped leaves are pale green on both surfaces with obvious veining.
In the spring, from April through May, sugar hackberry trees flower with insignificant greenish blooms. Females are solitary and male flowers are borne in clusters. Female blossoms become sugar hackberry fruit, in the form of berry-like drupes. Each drupe contains one round brown seed surrounded by sweet flesh. These deep purple drupes are a great favorite of many species of wildlife.
Sugar Hackberry Facts
Sugar hackberry is a southern version of common or northern hackberry (C. occidentalis) but differs from its northern cousin in several ways. First, the bark is less corky, whereas its northern counterpart exhibits distinctive warty bark. The leaves are narrower, it has a better resistance to witches’ broom, and is less winter hardy. Also, sugar hackberry fruit is juicier and sweeter. Speaking of the fruit, is sugarberry edible? Sugarberry was commonly used by many Native American tribes. The Comanche beat the fruit to a pulp and then mixed it with animal fat, rolled it into balls and roasted it in the fire. The resulting balls had a long shelf life and became nutritious food reserves.
Native people also had other uses for sugarberry fruit. The Houma used a decoction of bark and ground up shells to treat venereal disease, and a concentrate made from its bark was used to treat sore throats. The Navajo used leaves and branches, boiled down, to make a dark brown or red dye for wool. Some people still pick and use the fruit. Mature fruit can be picked from late summer until winter. It can then be air dried or soak the fruit overnight and rub the exterior off on a screen.
Sugarberry can be propagated via seed or cuttings. Seed must be stratified prior to use. Store wet seeds in a sealed container in the refrigerator at 41 degrees F. (5 C.) for 60-90 days. The stratified seed can then be sown in the spring or non-stratified seeds in the fall.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Just what are Ginkgo biloba benefits, what is ginkgo and how can one grow these useful trees? Read on for the answers to these questions and tips for growing ginkgo trees.
Gingko trees are deciduous, hardy shade trees with unique fan-shaped leaves which are linked to a primitive family of trees commonly found 160 million years ago in China. Considered to be the world’s oldest living species of tree, geological evidence of ginkgos have been dated to the Mesozoic era, some 200 million years ago! Ginkgo trees are planted around temple sites in Japan and considered to be sacred. These trees produce an herbal product popular around the world, most specifically in Asian cultures.
Ginkgo Biloba Benefits
The ancient medicinal by-product resulting from ginkgo trees is derived from the seeds of the tree. Long touted for its benefits in improving memory/concentration (Alzheimer’s disease and dementia), Ginkgo biloba purported benefits also include relief from PMS symptoms, eye problems like macular degeneration, dizziness, leg pains associated with circulation issues, Tinnitus, and even MS symptoms. Ginkgo biloba is not regulated or sanctioned by the FDA and is listed as an herbal product. A note on Ginkgo trees seeds: avoid products that contain fresh or roasted seeds as they contain a toxic chemical which can result in seizures or even death.
How to Grow a Ginkgo Tree
Also called the maidenhair tree, ginkgo trees are long living, drought and pest resistant, and incredibly strong; so strong in fact, they were the only trees to survive following the Hiroshima atomic bomb attack. These trees may grow to a height of 80 feet; however, they are slow growers and as such will work well in many garden areas within USDA zones 4-9. Ginkgos have a gorgeous yellow fall color and have a spreading habitat which varies dependent upon the cultivar. Autumn Gold is a male cultivar with good fall color and both Fastigiata and Princeton Sentry® are columnar male forms. Male forms of gingko trees are mentioned, as the fruiting females tend to have an incredibly nasty odor described by many as smelling of, well, vomit. Hence, it is recommended that one plants only male trees.
Tips for Growing Ginkgo
Ginkgo trees are multi-purpose in their uses as they make wonderful shade trees, specimen plants (including amazing bonsai) and street trees. As street trees, they are tolerant of city conditions such as air pollution and road salt. Although they may need to be staked when saplings, once they have attained some size, staking is no longer required and the trees may also be transplanted with great ease and no fuss. As the tree is amazingly easy going about almost everything, including the pH of its soil, gingko tree care does not require a lot of finesse. When planting, ginkgo tree care will include setting in deep, well-draining soil in an area of full to partial sun.
Regular watering and a well balanced fertilizer regime is also recommended, at least until maturation — about the time it reaches 35 to 50 feet tall! Seriously though, gingko tree care is a simple process and will result in many years of shade from this ornamental botanical “dinosaur.”
Gingko trees are deciduous, hardy shade trees with unique fan-shaped leaves which are linked to a primitive family of trees commonly found 160 million years ago in China. Considered to be the world’s oldest living species of tree, geological evidence of ginkgos have been dated to the Mesozoic era, some 200 million years ago! Ginkgo trees are planted around temple sites in Japan and considered to be sacred. These trees produce an herbal product popular around the world, most specifically in Asian cultures.
Ginkgo Biloba Benefits
The ancient medicinal by-product resulting from ginkgo trees is derived from the seeds of the tree. Long touted for its benefits in improving memory/concentration (Alzheimer’s disease and dementia), Ginkgo biloba purported benefits also include relief from PMS symptoms, eye problems like macular degeneration, dizziness, leg pains associated with circulation issues, Tinnitus, and even MS symptoms. Ginkgo biloba is not regulated or sanctioned by the FDA and is listed as an herbal product. A note on Ginkgo trees seeds: avoid products that contain fresh or roasted seeds as they contain a toxic chemical which can result in seizures or even death.
How to Grow a Ginkgo Tree
Also called the maidenhair tree, ginkgo trees are long living, drought and pest resistant, and incredibly strong; so strong in fact, they were the only trees to survive following the Hiroshima atomic bomb attack. These trees may grow to a height of 80 feet; however, they are slow growers and as such will work well in many garden areas within USDA zones 4-9. Ginkgos have a gorgeous yellow fall color and have a spreading habitat which varies dependent upon the cultivar. Autumn Gold is a male cultivar with good fall color and both Fastigiata and Princeton Sentry® are columnar male forms. Male forms of gingko trees are mentioned, as the fruiting females tend to have an incredibly nasty odor described by many as smelling of, well, vomit. Hence, it is recommended that one plants only male trees.
Tips for Growing Ginkgo
Ginkgo trees are multi-purpose in their uses as they make wonderful shade trees, specimen plants (including amazing bonsai) and street trees. As street trees, they are tolerant of city conditions such as air pollution and road salt. Although they may need to be staked when saplings, once they have attained some size, staking is no longer required and the trees may also be transplanted with great ease and no fuss. As the tree is amazingly easy going about almost everything, including the pH of its soil, gingko tree care does not require a lot of finesse. When planting, ginkgo tree care will include setting in deep, well-draining soil in an area of full to partial sun.
Regular watering and a well balanced fertilizer regime is also recommended, at least until maturation — about the time it reaches 35 to 50 feet tall! Seriously though, gingko tree care is a simple process and will result in many years of shade from this ornamental botanical “dinosaur.”
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
In early spring, just as the dogwood blossoms begin to fade, the delightful, fragrant flowers of the fringe tree burst into bloom. Fringe trees are outstanding landscape trees with many features to recommend them. Want to know more? You’ll find all the fringe tree information you need in this article.
What is a Fringe Tree?
Native to the southeastern U.S., Chionanthus virginicus can grow anywhere in the country except for the southernmost tip of Florida. Its botanical name means snow flower and refers to the tree’s large clusters of snow white flowers.
There is also a Chinese fringe tree, C. retusus, which is very similar to the native species but has smaller flower clusters. It hasn’t yet proven itself to be invasive, but as with all imported species, there is always a chance that problems may arise.
Although you may find fringe trees growing naturally in moist woods and on streambanks and hillsides, you probably won’t be able to bring one home to plant in your garden, as they don’t transplant well.
Fringe trees grow only 10 to 20 feet tall, so they fit in almost any garden. Use them in groupings, in shrub borders, or as specimens. They look spectacular when in bloom, and the large white flowers are followed by hanging blue or purple berries that bring birds and other wildlife to the garden. In summer you’ll enjoy a neat, oval-shaped canopy of dark green leaves. The fruit and flowers don’t leave behind a mess to clean up, making fringe tree care simple.
You don’t have to worry about planting a fringe tree under power lines. Their short stature means they won’t interfere with the lines. The trees tolerate urban conditions, including air pollution, but they won’t tolerate street salts or dry, compacted soil. The branches are strong and withstand all kinds of wind and weather, but the flowers are more delicate, and if you want them to last, plant the tree in a sheltered location.
Caring for Fringe Trees
For best results, plant fringe trees in moist, well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. As with most flowering trees, more sun means more flowers. Dig the planting hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. After you place the tree in the hole, backfill with the soil you removed from the hole without additives or enhancements. Water thoroughly when the hole is half full of soil and again when it is completely full, tamping down to remove air pockets.
The tree won’t withstand prolonged drought. Water before the soil around the roots has a chance to dry completely at root depth. Unless the soil fertility is naturally moderate to high, fertilize annually with about an inch of compost or use a complete and balanced fertilizer according to the label instructions. The sturdy branches of a fringe tree seldom need pruning. The canopy develops a naturally tight, oval shape.
What is a Fringe Tree?
Native to the southeastern U.S., Chionanthus virginicus can grow anywhere in the country except for the southernmost tip of Florida. Its botanical name means snow flower and refers to the tree’s large clusters of snow white flowers.
There is also a Chinese fringe tree, C. retusus, which is very similar to the native species but has smaller flower clusters. It hasn’t yet proven itself to be invasive, but as with all imported species, there is always a chance that problems may arise.
Although you may find fringe trees growing naturally in moist woods and on streambanks and hillsides, you probably won’t be able to bring one home to plant in your garden, as they don’t transplant well.
Fringe trees grow only 10 to 20 feet tall, so they fit in almost any garden. Use them in groupings, in shrub borders, or as specimens. They look spectacular when in bloom, and the large white flowers are followed by hanging blue or purple berries that bring birds and other wildlife to the garden. In summer you’ll enjoy a neat, oval-shaped canopy of dark green leaves. The fruit and flowers don’t leave behind a mess to clean up, making fringe tree care simple.
You don’t have to worry about planting a fringe tree under power lines. Their short stature means they won’t interfere with the lines. The trees tolerate urban conditions, including air pollution, but they won’t tolerate street salts or dry, compacted soil. The branches are strong and withstand all kinds of wind and weather, but the flowers are more delicate, and if you want them to last, plant the tree in a sheltered location.
Caring for Fringe Trees
For best results, plant fringe trees in moist, well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. As with most flowering trees, more sun means more flowers. Dig the planting hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. After you place the tree in the hole, backfill with the soil you removed from the hole without additives or enhancements. Water thoroughly when the hole is half full of soil and again when it is completely full, tamping down to remove air pockets.
The tree won’t withstand prolonged drought. Water before the soil around the roots has a chance to dry completely at root depth. Unless the soil fertility is naturally moderate to high, fertilize annually with about an inch of compost or use a complete and balanced fertilizer according to the label instructions. The sturdy branches of a fringe tree seldom need pruning. The canopy develops a naturally tight, oval shape.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The foxtail palm tree (Wodyetia bifurcata), an Australian native, is an adaptable, fast-growing specimen. In recent years, varieties of foxtail palm trees have become popular with landscapers and nurserymen in warmer zones of the United States. Grown in a wide range of soils, the only requirements are that soil be well draining and not highly acidic. Tolerant of salty sea spray and wind, the foxtail palm tree is an excellent choice for those who live on ocean fronts and other salt prone areas. Let’s take a look at how to grow foxtail palms in your garden.
How to Grow Foxtail Palms From Seed
Easily started from seed, the foxtail palm tree is suitable for container growing and may be used as an interior planting if correct growing conditions exist. Containers must be large enough to accommodate the large root system. Seeds may be started in small containers and transplanted when germination occurs. The attractive foxtail palm tree grows most rapidly in a full sun area, but may thrive in partially shaded areas as well. The foxtail palm tree prefers a humid environment which may be provided by nearby fountains or pebble trays in the immediate area where it is grown.
Seeds started in pots should be kept moist until germination occurs. Germination may occur as quickly as one month or take up to one year, but is most often accomplished within a three month time frame. Well drained soil and adequate watering, combined with appropriate fertilization ensure a low care beauty wherever it may be planted.
How to Take Care of Foxtail Palms
Easy maintenance is associated with the foxtail palm tree, as it is a self-cleaning specimen; meaning that spent leaves will die and drop from the tree as needed to facilitate new growth. While the foxtail palm tree is somewhat drought resistant, regular watering encourages optimum growth and a lush, exotic appearance. Regular watering is required until the tree is established, usually in one or two years. Caring for foxtail palms should include mulching, but mulch should not hug the trunk. Mulching helps retain moisture and discourages maintenance workers from accidentally injuring the trunk with mowers and trimmers. It also keeps weed growth down in the area of the foxtail palm tree.
Foxtail Palm Fertilizer
When feeding the foxtail palm tree, fertilizer should be heavy on nitrogen, which encourages lush green foliage growth. Foxtail palm fertilizer should be balanced and also contain micronutrients and trace elements. Controlled release fertilizer is preferable to rapid release, water soluble fertilizer, as the latter moves through the soil too quickly to benefit the deep and spreading root system. In areas where manganese toxicity may exist in the soil, such as some areas of Hawaii, a low pH may be corrected with the application of limestone. Foxtail palm fertilizer may be the pellet form and should be broadcast in the area under the tree’s canopy, taking care not to dump large amounts on newly forming roots which may burn. Avoid fertilizing against the trunk area.
Once they are properly located, caring for foxtail palms is relatively simple. Once you grow these specimens you will quickly learn how to take care of the foxtail palm. Through experience and experimentation you will determine which foxtail palm fertilizer is best for your conditions and which varieties of foxtail palm trees you prefer to grow.
How to Grow Foxtail Palms From Seed
Easily started from seed, the foxtail palm tree is suitable for container growing and may be used as an interior planting if correct growing conditions exist. Containers must be large enough to accommodate the large root system. Seeds may be started in small containers and transplanted when germination occurs. The attractive foxtail palm tree grows most rapidly in a full sun area, but may thrive in partially shaded areas as well. The foxtail palm tree prefers a humid environment which may be provided by nearby fountains or pebble trays in the immediate area where it is grown.
Seeds started in pots should be kept moist until germination occurs. Germination may occur as quickly as one month or take up to one year, but is most often accomplished within a three month time frame. Well drained soil and adequate watering, combined with appropriate fertilization ensure a low care beauty wherever it may be planted.
How to Take Care of Foxtail Palms
Easy maintenance is associated with the foxtail palm tree, as it is a self-cleaning specimen; meaning that spent leaves will die and drop from the tree as needed to facilitate new growth. While the foxtail palm tree is somewhat drought resistant, regular watering encourages optimum growth and a lush, exotic appearance. Regular watering is required until the tree is established, usually in one or two years. Caring for foxtail palms should include mulching, but mulch should not hug the trunk. Mulching helps retain moisture and discourages maintenance workers from accidentally injuring the trunk with mowers and trimmers. It also keeps weed growth down in the area of the foxtail palm tree.
Foxtail Palm Fertilizer
When feeding the foxtail palm tree, fertilizer should be heavy on nitrogen, which encourages lush green foliage growth. Foxtail palm fertilizer should be balanced and also contain micronutrients and trace elements. Controlled release fertilizer is preferable to rapid release, water soluble fertilizer, as the latter moves through the soil too quickly to benefit the deep and spreading root system. In areas where manganese toxicity may exist in the soil, such as some areas of Hawaii, a low pH may be corrected with the application of limestone. Foxtail palm fertilizer may be the pellet form and should be broadcast in the area under the tree’s canopy, taking care not to dump large amounts on newly forming roots which may burn. Avoid fertilizing against the trunk area.
Once they are properly located, caring for foxtail palms is relatively simple. Once you grow these specimens you will quickly learn how to take care of the foxtail palm. Through experience and experimentation you will determine which foxtail palm fertilizer is best for your conditions and which varieties of foxtail palm trees you prefer to grow.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Elm trees once lined city streets all across America, shading cars and sidewalks with their enormous, outstretched arms. By the 1930s, though, Dutch elm disease had arrived on our shores and began destroying these favorite trees of Main Streets everywhere. Although elms are still popular in home landscapes, American and European elms are highly susceptible to Dutch elm disease.
What is Dutch Elm Disease?
A fungal pathogen, Ophiostroma ulmi, is the cause of Dutch elm disease. This fungus is spread from tree to tree by boring beetles, making Dutch elm protection difficult at best. These tiny beetles burrow under the bark of elms and into the wood beneath, where they tunnel and lay their eggs. As they chew through the tree’s tissues, the fungal spores are rubbed off onto tunnel walls where they germinate, causing Dutch elm disease.
How to Detect Dutch Elm Disease
Signs of Dutch elm disease come on rapidly, over about a month’s time, typically in the spring when leaves are just maturing. One or more branches will be covered in yellow, wilted leaves that soon die and fall from the tree. As time goes on, the disease spreads to other branches, eventually consuming the whole tree.
Positive identification based on symptoms alone can be difficult because Dutch elm disease mimics water stress and other common disorders. However, if you cut open an affected branch or twig, it will contain a dark ring hidden in the tissues below the bark – this symptom is caused by fungal bodies clogging up the tree’s transport tissues.
Treatment for Dutch elm disease requires a community-wide effort to successfully eradicate both the beetles and fungal spores they carry. A single, isolated tree may be saved by pruning out affected branches and treating bark beetles, but multiple trees affected by Dutch elm disease may require removal in the end. Dutch elm disease is a frustrating and costly disease, but if you absolutely must have elms in your landscape, try the Asian elms – they have high levels of tolerance and resistance to the fungus.
What is Dutch Elm Disease?
A fungal pathogen, Ophiostroma ulmi, is the cause of Dutch elm disease. This fungus is spread from tree to tree by boring beetles, making Dutch elm protection difficult at best. These tiny beetles burrow under the bark of elms and into the wood beneath, where they tunnel and lay their eggs. As they chew through the tree’s tissues, the fungal spores are rubbed off onto tunnel walls where they germinate, causing Dutch elm disease.
How to Detect Dutch Elm Disease
Signs of Dutch elm disease come on rapidly, over about a month’s time, typically in the spring when leaves are just maturing. One or more branches will be covered in yellow, wilted leaves that soon die and fall from the tree. As time goes on, the disease spreads to other branches, eventually consuming the whole tree.
Positive identification based on symptoms alone can be difficult because Dutch elm disease mimics water stress and other common disorders. However, if you cut open an affected branch or twig, it will contain a dark ring hidden in the tissues below the bark – this symptom is caused by fungal bodies clogging up the tree’s transport tissues.
Treatment for Dutch elm disease requires a community-wide effort to successfully eradicate both the beetles and fungal spores they carry. A single, isolated tree may be saved by pruning out affected branches and treating bark beetles, but multiple trees affected by Dutch elm disease may require removal in the end. Dutch elm disease is a frustrating and costly disease, but if you absolutely must have elms in your landscape, try the Asian elms – they have high levels of tolerance and resistance to the fungus.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Stately elms once lined the streets of Midwestern and Eastern towns. In the 1930s, Dutch elm disease nearly wiped out these lovely trees, but they are making a strong comeback, thanks in part to the development of resistant varieties. Elm tree diseases still play a major role in the life of the trees and complicate their care. Anyone with an elm in their landscape should know the symptoms of disease so they can address problems promptly.
Diseases on Elm Trees
There are several elm tree leaf diseases that cause spotting, discoloration and defoliation. By the time the leaves fall from the tree, the spots have often grown together and other discolorations have developed, making it hard to differentiate between the diseases without a lab test.
Most elm tree diseases that attack the leaves are caused by fungi, but elm leaf scorch, caused by a bacterium, is a little different. With this disease, the bundles of veins in the leaves become clogged so that water can’t move within the leaf. This causes the leaf to look scorched. There is no known treatment for elm tree leaf scorch.
The most devastating elm tree diseases are Dutch elm disease and elm phloem necrosis. Dutch elm disease is caused by a fungus spread by elm bark beetles. The microscopic organism that causes elm phloem disease is spread by white-banded leafhoppers. The diseases look similar, with all of the leaves browning on affected branches, but you may be able to tell the difference by the location of the damage. Dutch elm disease usually starts on lower branches, and may appear random, affecting only part of the tree and leaving another part unscathed. Elm phloem necrosis affects the entire crown at once. Agricultural extension services in most areas ask that you report incidences of these diseases.
Treating Diseases of Elm Trees
Once elm tree leaf diseases take hold, there is no effective treatment. Rake and burn leaves to help prevent the spread of the diseases. If you have problems with leaf diseases, try using an anti-fungal spray early in the season the following year. This may help prevent disease. Powdery mildew is another leaf disease that sometimes effect elms, but it occurs so late in the season that treatment is unnecessary. There is no cure for Dutch elm or elm phloem disease. Trees infected with Dutch elm disease sometimes respond to pruning. This is a treatment that extends the life of the tree for several years if caught early and done properly, but it is not a cure. It’s best to hire a certified arborist for the job. Trees with elm phloem necrosis should be taken down as soon as possible.
Since there is no easy cure, it is important to learn how to protect elm trees from disease. Here are some tips:
Watch for the insects that cause elm tree diseases, and start a control program as soon as you see them. Rake and destroy elm tree leaves promptly. Use an antifungal spray if you had problems with elm leaves the previous year.
Diseases on Elm Trees
There are several elm tree leaf diseases that cause spotting, discoloration and defoliation. By the time the leaves fall from the tree, the spots have often grown together and other discolorations have developed, making it hard to differentiate between the diseases without a lab test.
Most elm tree diseases that attack the leaves are caused by fungi, but elm leaf scorch, caused by a bacterium, is a little different. With this disease, the bundles of veins in the leaves become clogged so that water can’t move within the leaf. This causes the leaf to look scorched. There is no known treatment for elm tree leaf scorch.
The most devastating elm tree diseases are Dutch elm disease and elm phloem necrosis. Dutch elm disease is caused by a fungus spread by elm bark beetles. The microscopic organism that causes elm phloem disease is spread by white-banded leafhoppers. The diseases look similar, with all of the leaves browning on affected branches, but you may be able to tell the difference by the location of the damage. Dutch elm disease usually starts on lower branches, and may appear random, affecting only part of the tree and leaving another part unscathed. Elm phloem necrosis affects the entire crown at once. Agricultural extension services in most areas ask that you report incidences of these diseases.
Treating Diseases of Elm Trees
Once elm tree leaf diseases take hold, there is no effective treatment. Rake and burn leaves to help prevent the spread of the diseases. If you have problems with leaf diseases, try using an anti-fungal spray early in the season the following year. This may help prevent disease. Powdery mildew is another leaf disease that sometimes effect elms, but it occurs so late in the season that treatment is unnecessary. There is no cure for Dutch elm or elm phloem disease. Trees infected with Dutch elm disease sometimes respond to pruning. This is a treatment that extends the life of the tree for several years if caught early and done properly, but it is not a cure. It’s best to hire a certified arborist for the job. Trees with elm phloem necrosis should be taken down as soon as possible.
Since there is no easy cure, it is important to learn how to protect elm trees from disease. Here are some tips:
Watch for the insects that cause elm tree diseases, and start a control program as soon as you see them. Rake and destroy elm tree leaves promptly. Use an antifungal spray if you had problems with elm leaves the previous year.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The drake elm (also called Chinese elm or lacebark elm) is a quick-growing elm tree that naturally develops a dense, rounded, umbrella shaped canopy. For more drake elm tree information and details on caring for drake elm trees, read on.
Drake Elm Tree Information
When you read up on drake elm tree information, you’ll learn all about the tree’s exceptionally beautiful bark. It is green, gray, orange and brown, and it exfoliates in small thin plates. The trunk often forks, producing the same vase shape that American elms display.
Drake elms (Ulmus parvifolia ‘Drake’) are relatively small trees, generally staying under 50 feet tall. They are deciduous, but they shed leaves late and almost act like evergreens in warmer climates. The leaves of a drake elm are typical to most elm trees, some two inches long, toothed, with conspicuous veins. Most drake elm tree information will mention the tree’s small winged samara/seeds that appear in the spring. The samaras are papery, flat and even ornamental, drooping in dense and showy clusters.
Drake Elm Tree Care
If you are thinking of how nice your backyard would look with a drake elm tree growing in it, you’ll want to learn about caring for drake elm trees. First of all, remember that the typical drake elm tree grows about 50 feet tall and 40 feet wide, so if you have the intention to start drake elm tree growing, provide each tree with an adequate site. Keep in mind that these elms thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Planting in a cooler or hotter region may not be a good idea.
If you are wondering how to grow a drake elm, it is not difficult if you plant the tree in an appropriate location and provide adequate care. Drake elm tree care includes plenty of sun, so find a full sun planting site. You’ll also want to give the tree adequate water during the growing season. Otherwise, drake elm tree growing is fairly easy. One thing to keep in mind is that drake elms reseed prodigiously. In some areas, drake elms are invasive, escaping cultivation and disrupting native plant populations.
If space is lacking or invasiveness is a concern, this tree also makes a great specimen for bonsai plantings.
Drake Elm Tree Information
When you read up on drake elm tree information, you’ll learn all about the tree’s exceptionally beautiful bark. It is green, gray, orange and brown, and it exfoliates in small thin plates. The trunk often forks, producing the same vase shape that American elms display.
Drake elms (Ulmus parvifolia ‘Drake’) are relatively small trees, generally staying under 50 feet tall. They are deciduous, but they shed leaves late and almost act like evergreens in warmer climates. The leaves of a drake elm are typical to most elm trees, some two inches long, toothed, with conspicuous veins. Most drake elm tree information will mention the tree’s small winged samara/seeds that appear in the spring. The samaras are papery, flat and even ornamental, drooping in dense and showy clusters.
Drake Elm Tree Care
If you are thinking of how nice your backyard would look with a drake elm tree growing in it, you’ll want to learn about caring for drake elm trees. First of all, remember that the typical drake elm tree grows about 50 feet tall and 40 feet wide, so if you have the intention to start drake elm tree growing, provide each tree with an adequate site. Keep in mind that these elms thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Planting in a cooler or hotter region may not be a good idea.
If you are wondering how to grow a drake elm, it is not difficult if you plant the tree in an appropriate location and provide adequate care. Drake elm tree care includes plenty of sun, so find a full sun planting site. You’ll also want to give the tree adequate water during the growing season. Otherwise, drake elm tree growing is fairly easy. One thing to keep in mind is that drake elms reseed prodigiously. In some areas, drake elms are invasive, escaping cultivation and disrupting native plant populations.
If space is lacking or invasiveness is a concern, this tree also makes a great specimen for bonsai plantings.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The American elm populations has been decimated by Dutch Elm disease, so gardeners in this country often choose to plant Japanese elm trees instead. This lovely group of trees is hardier and equally attractive, with smooth gray bark and an appealing canopy. Read on for Japanese elm tree facts, including information about how to grow a Japanese elm tree.
Japanese Elm Tree Facts
Japanese elm tree includes not one, but six genera with 35 species of elm native to Japan. All are deciduous trees or shrubs that are native to Japan and northeastern Asia.
Japanese elms are resistant to Dutch Elm disease, a disease fatal to the American elm. One type of Japanese elm, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, is so highly resistant that is has been used to develop resistant cultivars. Japanese elm trees can mature to 55 feet tall with a 35-foot canopy spread. The bark is grayish brown and the crown of the tree rounded and spreads out in an umbrella shape. The fruits of Japanaese elm trees depend on the genera and variety of the tree. Some are samaras and some are nuts.
How to Grow a Japanese Elm Tree
If you want to start growing Japanese elm trees, you’ll have the easiest time if you plant the trees in an appropriate location. Japanese elm tree care requires a sunny planting site with well-draining, loamy soil. If you’re already growing Japanese elm trees in hard clay soil, you aren’t obliged to move them. The trees will survive, but they will grow much more slowly than in rich soil that drains well. The optimal soil will have a pH between 5.5 and 8.
Japanese Elm Tree Care
Also, when growing Japanese elm trees, you need to understand Japanese elm tree care requirements. When and how to water is perhaps the most important part of caring for these trees. Like other elms, Japanese elm trees need to be watered during extended dry periods. Provide water at the outside edge of their canopies, not close to the trunks. The root hairs of these trees that absorb water and nutrients are found on the root tips. Ideally, irrigate with a drip hose during periods of drought.
Japanese elm tree care also involves weeding around the trees. Weeds under an elm tree canopy compete for available water. Remove them regularly to keep your tree healthy.
Japanese Elm Tree Facts
Japanese elm tree includes not one, but six genera with 35 species of elm native to Japan. All are deciduous trees or shrubs that are native to Japan and northeastern Asia.
Japanese elms are resistant to Dutch Elm disease, a disease fatal to the American elm. One type of Japanese elm, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica, is so highly resistant that is has been used to develop resistant cultivars. Japanese elm trees can mature to 55 feet tall with a 35-foot canopy spread. The bark is grayish brown and the crown of the tree rounded and spreads out in an umbrella shape. The fruits of Japanaese elm trees depend on the genera and variety of the tree. Some are samaras and some are nuts.
How to Grow a Japanese Elm Tree
If you want to start growing Japanese elm trees, you’ll have the easiest time if you plant the trees in an appropriate location. Japanese elm tree care requires a sunny planting site with well-draining, loamy soil. If you’re already growing Japanese elm trees in hard clay soil, you aren’t obliged to move them. The trees will survive, but they will grow much more slowly than in rich soil that drains well. The optimal soil will have a pH between 5.5 and 8.
Japanese Elm Tree Care
Also, when growing Japanese elm trees, you need to understand Japanese elm tree care requirements. When and how to water is perhaps the most important part of caring for these trees. Like other elms, Japanese elm trees need to be watered during extended dry periods. Provide water at the outside edge of their canopies, not close to the trunks. The root hairs of these trees that absorb water and nutrients are found on the root tips. Ideally, irrigate with a drip hose during periods of drought.
Japanese elm tree care also involves weeding around the trees. Weeds under an elm tree canopy compete for available water. Remove them regularly to keep your tree healthy.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Elms (Ulmus spp.) are stately and majestic trees that are an asset to any landscape. Growing elm trees provides a homeowner with cooling shade and unrivaled beauty for many years to come. Elm-lined streets were common in North America until Dutch elm disease struck in the 1930s, wiping out most of the trees. With new, disease-resistant varieties, however, elm trees are making a comeback. Let’s learn more about planting an elm tree.
About Elm Trees
Elms are native to Europe, Asia and North America. They are used as specimen trees in residential landscapes and as street and park trees. They have a shallow root system that makes it difficult to grow anything under them, but their natural beauty and the quality of their shade makes it worth forgoing a garden under the tree.
Chinese laceback elm (U. parvifolia) is one of the best elms for residential properties. It has an attractive, spreading canopy that provides far-reaching shade. Its shedding bark leaves an ornamental, puzzle-like pattern on the trunk. Here are some other types of elm trees to consider:
American elm (U. americana) grows up to 120 feet tall with a rounded or vase-shaped crown. Smooth-leaved elm (U. carpinifolia) grows 100 feet tall. It has a conical shape with drooping branches. Scottish elm (U. glabra) has a dome-shaped crown and grows to 120 feet tall. Dutch Elm (U. platii) grows up to 120 feet with a wide-spreading canopy and drooping branches.
Dutch elm disease is one of the most important problems with elms. This devastating disease has killed millions of trees in the United States and Europe. Caused by a fungus spread by elm bark beetles, the disease is usually fatal. When considering planting an elm tree, always buy resistant cultivars.
Elm Tree Care
Elms prefer full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained fertile soil. They adapt to wet or dry soil as well. They make good street trees because they tolerate urban conditions, but keep in mind than planting an elm tree near sidewalks can lead to cracks and raised areas. You can plant container-grown trees any time of year. Bare root, balled and burlapped elms are best planted in spring or late fall. Don’t amend the soil in the hole at planting time unless it is very poor. Add a little compost to the fill dirt for poor soils. Wait until next spring to fertilize an elm tree.
Mulch the tree immediately after planting. Mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces competition from weeds. Use a 2-inch layer of light mulch such as shredded leaves, hay or pine needles. Use 3 inches of bark mulch. Water young trees weekly in the absence of rain. A good way to water a young tree is to bury the end of a water hose a couple of inches in the soil and let the water run as slowly as possible for about an hour. After the first couple of years, the tree only needs watering during prolonged dry spells.
Fertilize young elms every spring with a complete and balanced fertilizer. Over-application of fertilizer can harm the tree, so follow the fertilizer manufacturer’s instructions exactly. Older trees that aren’t adding much new growth don’t need annual fertilization, but they will appreciate a light scattering of fertilizer now and then.
About Elm Trees
Elms are native to Europe, Asia and North America. They are used as specimen trees in residential landscapes and as street and park trees. They have a shallow root system that makes it difficult to grow anything under them, but their natural beauty and the quality of their shade makes it worth forgoing a garden under the tree.
Chinese laceback elm (U. parvifolia) is one of the best elms for residential properties. It has an attractive, spreading canopy that provides far-reaching shade. Its shedding bark leaves an ornamental, puzzle-like pattern on the trunk. Here are some other types of elm trees to consider:
American elm (U. americana) grows up to 120 feet tall with a rounded or vase-shaped crown. Smooth-leaved elm (U. carpinifolia) grows 100 feet tall. It has a conical shape with drooping branches. Scottish elm (U. glabra) has a dome-shaped crown and grows to 120 feet tall. Dutch Elm (U. platii) grows up to 120 feet with a wide-spreading canopy and drooping branches.
Dutch elm disease is one of the most important problems with elms. This devastating disease has killed millions of trees in the United States and Europe. Caused by a fungus spread by elm bark beetles, the disease is usually fatal. When considering planting an elm tree, always buy resistant cultivars.
Elm Tree Care
Elms prefer full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained fertile soil. They adapt to wet or dry soil as well. They make good street trees because they tolerate urban conditions, but keep in mind than planting an elm tree near sidewalks can lead to cracks and raised areas. You can plant container-grown trees any time of year. Bare root, balled and burlapped elms are best planted in spring or late fall. Don’t amend the soil in the hole at planting time unless it is very poor. Add a little compost to the fill dirt for poor soils. Wait until next spring to fertilize an elm tree.
Mulch the tree immediately after planting. Mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces competition from weeds. Use a 2-inch layer of light mulch such as shredded leaves, hay or pine needles. Use 3 inches of bark mulch. Water young trees weekly in the absence of rain. A good way to water a young tree is to bury the end of a water hose a couple of inches in the soil and let the water run as slowly as possible for about an hour. After the first couple of years, the tree only needs watering during prolonged dry spells.
Fertilize young elms every spring with a complete and balanced fertilizer. Over-application of fertilizer can harm the tree, so follow the fertilizer manufacturer’s instructions exactly. Older trees that aren’t adding much new growth don’t need annual fertilization, but they will appreciate a light scattering of fertilizer now and then.
0
0
