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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The cedar of Lebanon tree (Cedrus libani) is an evergreen with beautiful wood that has been used for high quality timber for thousands of years. Lebanon cedar trees usually have only one trunk with many branches that grow out horizontally, spiraling up. They are long lived and have a maximum life span of over 1,000 years. If you are interested in growing cedar of Lebanon trees, read on for information about these cedars and tips about cedar of Lebanon care.
Lebanon Cedar Information
Lebanon cedar information tells us that these conifers are native to Lebanon, Syria and Turkey. In yesteryear, vast forests of Lebanon cedar trees covered these regions, but today they are largely gone. However, people around the world began growing cedar of Lebanon trees for their grace and beauty.
Lebanon cedar trees have thick trunks and stout branches too. Younger trees are shaped like pyramids, but the crown of a Lebanon cedar tree flattens as it ages. Mature trees also have bark that is cracked and fissured.
You’ll have to be patient if you want to start growing cedar of Lebanon. The trees don’t even flower until they are 25 or 30 years old, which means that until that time, they do not reproduce. Once they begin to flower, they produce unisex catkins, 2-inches long and reddish in color. In time, the cones grow to 5 inches long, standing up like candles on the branches. The cones are light green until they mature, when they become brown. Their scales each contain two winged seeds that are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cedar of Lebanon
Cedar of Lebanon care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. Only plant Lebanon cedar trees if you have a big backyard. A cedar of Lebanon tree is tall with spreading branches. It can rise to 80 feet tall with a spread of 50 feet. Ideally, you should grow Lebanon cedars at elevations of 4,200-700 feet. In any event, plant the trees in deep soil. They need generous light and about 40 inches of water a year. In the wild, Lebanon cedar trees thrive on slopes facing the sea where they form open forests.
Lebanon Cedar Information
Lebanon cedar information tells us that these conifers are native to Lebanon, Syria and Turkey. In yesteryear, vast forests of Lebanon cedar trees covered these regions, but today they are largely gone. However, people around the world began growing cedar of Lebanon trees for their grace and beauty.
Lebanon cedar trees have thick trunks and stout branches too. Younger trees are shaped like pyramids, but the crown of a Lebanon cedar tree flattens as it ages. Mature trees also have bark that is cracked and fissured.
You’ll have to be patient if you want to start growing cedar of Lebanon. The trees don’t even flower until they are 25 or 30 years old, which means that until that time, they do not reproduce. Once they begin to flower, they produce unisex catkins, 2-inches long and reddish in color. In time, the cones grow to 5 inches long, standing up like candles on the branches. The cones are light green until they mature, when they become brown. Their scales each contain two winged seeds that are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cedar of Lebanon
Cedar of Lebanon care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. Only plant Lebanon cedar trees if you have a big backyard. A cedar of Lebanon tree is tall with spreading branches. It can rise to 80 feet tall with a spread of 50 feet. Ideally, you should grow Lebanon cedars at elevations of 4,200-700 feet. In any event, plant the trees in deep soil. They need generous light and about 40 inches of water a year. In the wild, Lebanon cedar trees thrive on slopes facing the sea where they form open forests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
No one can visit a tropical locale without noticing the multi-trunked trees with golden flowers cascading from the branches. Growing cassia trees (Cassia fistula) line the boulevards of many tropical cities; and when you see one in full flower for the first time, you have to ask, “How hardy is a cassia tree and can I take one home?”
Cassia Tree Info
If you live anywhere north of growing zone 10b and don’t have a climate controlled greenhouse, the answer is probably no. If you do meet one of those requirements, you’re in luck. Cassia tree info tells us that, depending on the species, these trees come in evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous types with brilliant pink, orange, red, white or yellow flowers. Yellow is the most common flower type and gives the tree one of its many common names, the gold medallion tree. Each flower is only about two to three inches wide but appear in clusters along densely packed racemes that on a mature growing cassia tree can reach two feet long. The light green leaves of the cassia tree are pinnate with six to twelve pairs of long oval leaflets and grow to two feet or more. Once flowering is over, the flowers are replaced with seed pods.
Growing Cassia Trees
If you live in an area that meets the requirements of how hardy is a cassia tree, planting a cassia tree can be a striking addition to your landscape. Most cassia tree info recommends growing cassia trees from seed. There’s a trick to this, however. The seeds are rock hard and water tight, so you can either soak them in sulfuric acid (No kidding! And it needs to be concentrated, too. In nature, this process occurs in the digestive tracts of animals.), or you can scarify or slit the seed coat. Soak the seed in water for at least 24 hours and nick the seed with a sharp knife. Keep the seed moist in a pot of commercial growing medium. You can, of course, purchase a tree from your local nursery or order it from a catalog. The following directions for planting a cassia tree will be the same.
Tips for Planting a Cassia Tree and Its Care
Cassia tree care requires very little, but that little is important. Once your seed has germinated and has about six leaves, it’s time to decide where your tree will be growing. Cassia trees need full sun to flower and produce the most colorful blossoms. They are tolerant of most soil types with a neutral pH, and while they like water, they do best in well drained soils. Dig your whole twice the size of the root ball and add peat moss and compost to the fill dirt, adding a handful of slow release fertilizer. Planting a cassia tree this way will give it the healthiest start. Leave a trough around your tree to collect water and see that it is watered regularly until the roots are well established.
Young trees need to be staked and will look a little scrawny for the first five years or so and then it will begin to fill out. These trees have a tendency to ‘weep’ so if you want a fuller look, pruning will be a part of your early cassia tree care. Still asking how hardy is a cassia tree? They rarely survive temperatures below 30 F. (-1 C.) and since they reach heights of 20 to 30 feet, that greenhouse better be a big one. Sometimes it’s better to dream. But for those of you who live in or on the edge of the tropics, think about planting a cassia tree as a lush tropical canopy for your yard.
One final word of warning. While all parts of the cassia tree were once used for ancient medical remedies, it is not safe to ingest any part of the tree. The seeds can be particularly toxic, so keep this in mind around children or pets.
Cassia Tree Info
If you live anywhere north of growing zone 10b and don’t have a climate controlled greenhouse, the answer is probably no. If you do meet one of those requirements, you’re in luck. Cassia tree info tells us that, depending on the species, these trees come in evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous types with brilliant pink, orange, red, white or yellow flowers. Yellow is the most common flower type and gives the tree one of its many common names, the gold medallion tree. Each flower is only about two to three inches wide but appear in clusters along densely packed racemes that on a mature growing cassia tree can reach two feet long. The light green leaves of the cassia tree are pinnate with six to twelve pairs of long oval leaflets and grow to two feet or more. Once flowering is over, the flowers are replaced with seed pods.
Growing Cassia Trees
If you live in an area that meets the requirements of how hardy is a cassia tree, planting a cassia tree can be a striking addition to your landscape. Most cassia tree info recommends growing cassia trees from seed. There’s a trick to this, however. The seeds are rock hard and water tight, so you can either soak them in sulfuric acid (No kidding! And it needs to be concentrated, too. In nature, this process occurs in the digestive tracts of animals.), or you can scarify or slit the seed coat. Soak the seed in water for at least 24 hours and nick the seed with a sharp knife. Keep the seed moist in a pot of commercial growing medium. You can, of course, purchase a tree from your local nursery or order it from a catalog. The following directions for planting a cassia tree will be the same.
Tips for Planting a Cassia Tree and Its Care
Cassia tree care requires very little, but that little is important. Once your seed has germinated and has about six leaves, it’s time to decide where your tree will be growing. Cassia trees need full sun to flower and produce the most colorful blossoms. They are tolerant of most soil types with a neutral pH, and while they like water, they do best in well drained soils. Dig your whole twice the size of the root ball and add peat moss and compost to the fill dirt, adding a handful of slow release fertilizer. Planting a cassia tree this way will give it the healthiest start. Leave a trough around your tree to collect water and see that it is watered regularly until the roots are well established.
Young trees need to be staked and will look a little scrawny for the first five years or so and then it will begin to fill out. These trees have a tendency to ‘weep’ so if you want a fuller look, pruning will be a part of your early cassia tree care. Still asking how hardy is a cassia tree? They rarely survive temperatures below 30 F. (-1 C.) and since they reach heights of 20 to 30 feet, that greenhouse better be a big one. Sometimes it’s better to dream. But for those of you who live in or on the edge of the tropics, think about planting a cassia tree as a lush tropical canopy for your yard.
One final word of warning. While all parts of the cassia tree were once used for ancient medical remedies, it is not safe to ingest any part of the tree. The seeds can be particularly toxic, so keep this in mind around children or pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cassia trees are also called candlebrush, and it’s easy to see why. In late summer, the golden yellow flowers that hang from the branches in long clusters resemble candles. This large, spreading shrub or small tree makes a great container accent plant that looks fantastic on patios and near entryways. You can also use it as a specimen or lawn tree. Pruning cassia trees helps strengthen the structure and keeps it looking neat.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for an interesting tree that can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions in the landscape, consider growing yourself a pea tree. What is a pea tree, you ask? Keep reading for more information about pea trees.
About Pea Trees
A member of the pea family (Fabaceae), the Siberian pea tree, Caragana arborescens, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Siberia and Manchuria. Introduced into the United States, the Siberian pea tree, otherwise known as Caragana pea tree, attains heights of between 10 to 15 feet tall, some up to 20 feet tall. It is composed of alternate 3- to 5-inch long leaves made up of eight to 12 oval leaflets with yellow snapdragon shaped blooms appearing in early spring and forming pods in late June or early July. Seeds are spread as the ripening pods burst with a resounding pop. The Siberian pea tree has been used medicinally while some ethnic groups eat the young pods, use the bark for fiber, and render an azure colored dye from its leaves. During WWII, Siberian peasants supposedly over wintered their poultry flocks by feeding them the seeds of Caragana pea trees, which wildlife enjoy as well. The erect to almost weeping habit of the pea tree lends itself well to planting Caragana as windbreaks, in borders, screen plantings and as flowering hedges.
How to Grow a Pea Tree
Interested in how to grow a pea tree? Planting Caragana trees may occur in almost any region of the United States, as it is fairly tolerant of most conditions. Siberian pea trees can be planted anywhere in anything from full sun to partial shade and in moist to dry soil. Planting Caragana pea trees may occur in clay, loam or sandy soil media with either a high acidity or high alkalinity in USDA plant hardiness zones 2-8.
You should plan on planting your pea tree after the chance of any frost in the area. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and 2 inches as deep. Add a couple of handfuls of compost and four handfuls of sand (if you have dense soil) to the dirt. If you are planning on creating a hedge, space each plant 5 to 10 feet apart. Place 2 inches of this amended soil back into the hole and put the new Siberian pea plant atop and fill with the rest of the soil. Water thoroughly and tamp down the soil around the plant. Continue to water every other day for the first two weeks to establish strong root then thereafter reduce watering to twice a week for the next two weeks.
Pea Tree Care
Since Siberian pea plant is so adaptable, there is minimal pea tree care to consider once established. Feed the plant a slow release fertilizer tablet or granules once the plant has started to grow and water in. You will only need to fertilize once a year in the spring. Water every week unless the weather is overly hot and dry, and prune as needed – ideally in late winter to early spring, especially if creating a hedge of Caragana pea trees.
Caragana pea trees will even flourish seaside as well as more arid climates and is resistant to most pests and diseases. This hardy flowering specimen can live from 40 to 150 years growing an additional 3 feet per season, so if planting Caragana in your landscape, you should enjoy the tree for many years to come.
About Pea Trees
A member of the pea family (Fabaceae), the Siberian pea tree, Caragana arborescens, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Siberia and Manchuria. Introduced into the United States, the Siberian pea tree, otherwise known as Caragana pea tree, attains heights of between 10 to 15 feet tall, some up to 20 feet tall. It is composed of alternate 3- to 5-inch long leaves made up of eight to 12 oval leaflets with yellow snapdragon shaped blooms appearing in early spring and forming pods in late June or early July. Seeds are spread as the ripening pods burst with a resounding pop. The Siberian pea tree has been used medicinally while some ethnic groups eat the young pods, use the bark for fiber, and render an azure colored dye from its leaves. During WWII, Siberian peasants supposedly over wintered their poultry flocks by feeding them the seeds of Caragana pea trees, which wildlife enjoy as well. The erect to almost weeping habit of the pea tree lends itself well to planting Caragana as windbreaks, in borders, screen plantings and as flowering hedges.
How to Grow a Pea Tree
Interested in how to grow a pea tree? Planting Caragana trees may occur in almost any region of the United States, as it is fairly tolerant of most conditions. Siberian pea trees can be planted anywhere in anything from full sun to partial shade and in moist to dry soil. Planting Caragana pea trees may occur in clay, loam or sandy soil media with either a high acidity or high alkalinity in USDA plant hardiness zones 2-8.
You should plan on planting your pea tree after the chance of any frost in the area. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and 2 inches as deep. Add a couple of handfuls of compost and four handfuls of sand (if you have dense soil) to the dirt. If you are planning on creating a hedge, space each plant 5 to 10 feet apart. Place 2 inches of this amended soil back into the hole and put the new Siberian pea plant atop and fill with the rest of the soil. Water thoroughly and tamp down the soil around the plant. Continue to water every other day for the first two weeks to establish strong root then thereafter reduce watering to twice a week for the next two weeks.
Pea Tree Care
Since Siberian pea plant is so adaptable, there is minimal pea tree care to consider once established. Feed the plant a slow release fertilizer tablet or granules once the plant has started to grow and water in. You will only need to fertilize once a year in the spring. Water every week unless the weather is overly hot and dry, and prune as needed – ideally in late winter to early spring, especially if creating a hedge of Caragana pea trees.
Caragana pea trees will even flourish seaside as well as more arid climates and is resistant to most pests and diseases. This hardy flowering specimen can live from 40 to 150 years growing an additional 3 feet per season, so if planting Caragana in your landscape, you should enjoy the tree for many years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Love it or hate it – few gardeners feel neutral about the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora). Camphor trees in the landscape grow very big, very fast, making some homeowners happy, others uncomfortable. The tree also produces thousands of berries that can result in thousands of seedlings in your backyard. Read on for more camphor tree information.
Camphor Tree Information
Camphor trees in the landscape cannot be ignored. Each tree can grow to 150 feet tall and spread twice as wide. Camphor tree information also notes that the trunks get to 15 feet in diameter in some locations, although in the United States, the maximum trunk diameter is much smaller.
Camphor trees have glossy oval leaves that dangle from long petioles. Leaves start out a rusty red, but soon turn dark green with three yellow veins. The leaves are paler underneath and darker on top. These trees are native to mesic forests of China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, but the tree has become naturalized in Australia and thrives in the Gulf and Pacific Coast regions.
Camphor Tree Growing
If you are interested in camphor tree growing, you’ll need some additional camphor tree information. These trees like to grow in fertile sandy soil with a pH level of between 4.3 and 8. Camphor tree growing is best in full sun or partial shade. When caring for camphor trees, you’ll need to water them when they are first transplanted, but once they are established, they are drought tolerant. Don’t plant with the intention of transplanting in mind. When you are caring for camphor trees, you need to know that their roots are very sensitive to disturbance and grow far from the trunk.
Camphor Tree Uses
Camphor tree uses include planting as a shade tree or windbreak. Its long roots make it very resilient to storms and wind. However, other camphor tree uses may surprise you. The tree is grown commercially in China and Japan for its oil that is used for medicinal purposes. Camphor oil has been used to treat conditions from parasitic infections to toothaches, and the plant chemicals have value in antiseptics.
Other camphor tree uses involve its attractive red and yellow striped wood. It is good for woodworking, and repelling insects. Camphor is also used in perfumes.
Camphor Tree Information
Camphor trees in the landscape cannot be ignored. Each tree can grow to 150 feet tall and spread twice as wide. Camphor tree information also notes that the trunks get to 15 feet in diameter in some locations, although in the United States, the maximum trunk diameter is much smaller.
Camphor trees have glossy oval leaves that dangle from long petioles. Leaves start out a rusty red, but soon turn dark green with three yellow veins. The leaves are paler underneath and darker on top. These trees are native to mesic forests of China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, but the tree has become naturalized in Australia and thrives in the Gulf and Pacific Coast regions.
Camphor Tree Growing
If you are interested in camphor tree growing, you’ll need some additional camphor tree information. These trees like to grow in fertile sandy soil with a pH level of between 4.3 and 8. Camphor tree growing is best in full sun or partial shade. When caring for camphor trees, you’ll need to water them when they are first transplanted, but once they are established, they are drought tolerant. Don’t plant with the intention of transplanting in mind. When you are caring for camphor trees, you need to know that their roots are very sensitive to disturbance and grow far from the trunk.
Camphor Tree Uses
Camphor tree uses include planting as a shade tree or windbreak. Its long roots make it very resilient to storms and wind. However, other camphor tree uses may surprise you. The tree is grown commercially in China and Japan for its oil that is used for medicinal purposes. Camphor oil has been used to treat conditions from parasitic infections to toothaches, and the plant chemicals have value in antiseptics.
Other camphor tree uses involve its attractive red and yellow striped wood. It is good for woodworking, and repelling insects. Camphor is also used in perfumes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is a bunya tree? Bunya pine trees (Araucaria bidwilli) are striking conifers native to the subtropical regions of Australia’s east coast. These remarkable trees are not true pines, but members of an ancient family of trees known as Araucariaceae. For more Bunya pine information, including tips on how to grow a bunya tree, read on.
What is a Bunya Tree?
Forests of trees in the Araucariaceae family used to grow all over the planet during the days of the dinosaurs. They died out in the Northern Hemisphere, and the remaining species are found only in the Southern Hemisphere.
Bunya pine information makes clear how extraordinary these trees are. Mature bunya pine trees grow to 150 feet tall with straight, thick trunks and distinctive, symmetrical, dome-shaped crowns. The leaves are lance-shaped and the cones grow to the size of large coconuts.
Bunya pine information confirms that the seeds in the cones are edible. Each female cone grows some 50 to 100 large seeds or nuts. For hundreds of years, the edible seeds have provided a food source for the Aborigines of southeast Queensland, who considered the Bunya a sacred tree. The nuts of Bunya pine trees are similar in texture and taste to chestnuts. They produce some nuts every year, and a large crop every three years. The bumper crops are large enough that clans of Aboriginal people would gather to feast on them.How to Grow a Bunya Tree
Despite the fact that it has sub-tropical origins, the bunya pine is cultivated in many areas (typically USDA zones 9-11) and adapts to various soil types as long as it’s well-draining. It also appreciates full sun to part shade areas. If you want to learn how to grow a bunya tree, one of the most important points to remember is that the trees have large tap roots that must extend deep into the ground. The tap roots anchor the bunya pine trees. Without healthy tap roots, they topple in the wind. How to grow a bunya tree with a strong tap root? The key is direct seeding. Bunya trees don’t grow well in pots because their germination period is unpredictable and when they do sprout, their tap roots quickly outgrow the pots.
Try to protect the seeds from rodents and harsh weather. Weed the planting area well, then place the seeds on the bare ground, covered with forest litter. Position staked, plastic tree guards around each one. This manner of planting lets the seeds germinate at their own rate and the tap roots grow as deep as they can. Water regularly. Seeds can take anywhere from one to eighteen months to germinate.
What is a Bunya Tree?
Forests of trees in the Araucariaceae family used to grow all over the planet during the days of the dinosaurs. They died out in the Northern Hemisphere, and the remaining species are found only in the Southern Hemisphere.
Bunya pine information makes clear how extraordinary these trees are. Mature bunya pine trees grow to 150 feet tall with straight, thick trunks and distinctive, symmetrical, dome-shaped crowns. The leaves are lance-shaped and the cones grow to the size of large coconuts.
Bunya pine information confirms that the seeds in the cones are edible. Each female cone grows some 50 to 100 large seeds or nuts. For hundreds of years, the edible seeds have provided a food source for the Aborigines of southeast Queensland, who considered the Bunya a sacred tree. The nuts of Bunya pine trees are similar in texture and taste to chestnuts. They produce some nuts every year, and a large crop every three years. The bumper crops are large enough that clans of Aboriginal people would gather to feast on them.How to Grow a Bunya Tree
Despite the fact that it has sub-tropical origins, the bunya pine is cultivated in many areas (typically USDA zones 9-11) and adapts to various soil types as long as it’s well-draining. It also appreciates full sun to part shade areas. If you want to learn how to grow a bunya tree, one of the most important points to remember is that the trees have large tap roots that must extend deep into the ground. The tap roots anchor the bunya pine trees. Without healthy tap roots, they topple in the wind. How to grow a bunya tree with a strong tap root? The key is direct seeding. Bunya trees don’t grow well in pots because their germination period is unpredictable and when they do sprout, their tap roots quickly outgrow the pots.
Try to protect the seeds from rodents and harsh weather. Weed the planting area well, then place the seeds on the bare ground, covered with forest litter. Position staked, plastic tree guards around each one. This manner of planting lets the seeds germinate at their own rate and the tap roots grow as deep as they can. Water regularly. Seeds can take anywhere from one to eighteen months to germinate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
There are few trees that can stop a person in their tracks like a Brugmansia can. In their native climates, brugmansias can grow to be up to 20 feet tall. Not at all an impressive height for a tree, but what makes them so impressive is that the entire tree can be covered in foot long trumpet-shaped flowers.
Brugmansia Information
Brugmansias are commonly called Angel Trumpets. Brugmansias are frequently confused with or thought to be the same as daturas, which are also commonly called Angel Trumpets. This is an incorrect assumption though. Brugmansia and daturas are not directly related to one another (they are listed in two separate genus). The brugmansia is a woody tree, while the datura is an herbaceous shrub. The two different angel trumpets can be distinguished by the direction of the flowers. In brugmansias, the flower hangs down. In daturas, the flower stands upright. Many people look at brugmansias and assume that they can only be grown in tropical climates. While it is true that brugmansias are tropical trees, they are actually very easy for someone in a colder climate to grow and enjoy. Brugmansias can be easily grown in containers.
Growing Brugmansia in Containers
Brugmansias do quite well grown in containers and can be easily grown by a northern gardener in a container. Plant your brugmansia in a rather large container, at least two feet in diameter. Your container brugmansia can go outside when the nighttime temperatures stay above 50 F. (10 C.). and can remain outside until the fall when the nighttime temperatures start to fall below 50 F (10 C.). Be sure to keep your container brugmansia thoroughly watered while you keep it outside. They do need a lot of water and your container brugmansia may need to be watered up to twice a day.
Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container grown brugmansia will reach a height of about 12 feet. Of course, if this is too high, a container grown brugmansia tree can be easily trained into a smaller tree or even a shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Overwintering Brugmanias in Containers
Once the weather turns colder and you need to bring your brugmansia in from the cold, you have two options for over wintering your container brugmansia. The first is to simply treat your container brugmansia as a houseplant. Put it in a sunny location and water as the soil dries out. You probably will not see any flowers while your container brugmansia lives in the house, but it has nice foliage.
Your other option is to force the container brugmansia into dormancy. To do this, put your brugmansia in a cool (but not cold), dark place, such as a garage, a basement or a closet. If you would like, you may trim your container brugmansia back by about a third before you store it. This will not hurt the plant and may make storage a little easier for you. One the plant is stored, water it sparingly, only about once per month. Be warned, your container brugmansia is going to start to look pretty pathetic. It will lose its leaves and some of the outer branches may die. Do not panic. As long as the trunk of the brugmansia tree is still green, your container brugmansia is alive and well. The tree is only sleeping.
A month or so before it is warm enough to take your container brugmansia back outside, start to water your brugmansia more frequently, about once a week. If you have room in your house, bring the container brugmansia out of its storage space or set up a fluorescent light bulb to shine on the brugmansia. In about a week you will start to see some leaves and branches start to grow. You will find that your container brugmansia will come out of dormancy very quickly. Once you put your container brugmansia back outside, its growth will be very rapid and you will have a lush, breathtaking, flower filled brugmansia tree again in just a matter of weeks.
Brugmansia Information
Brugmansias are commonly called Angel Trumpets. Brugmansias are frequently confused with or thought to be the same as daturas, which are also commonly called Angel Trumpets. This is an incorrect assumption though. Brugmansia and daturas are not directly related to one another (they are listed in two separate genus). The brugmansia is a woody tree, while the datura is an herbaceous shrub. The two different angel trumpets can be distinguished by the direction of the flowers. In brugmansias, the flower hangs down. In daturas, the flower stands upright. Many people look at brugmansias and assume that they can only be grown in tropical climates. While it is true that brugmansias are tropical trees, they are actually very easy for someone in a colder climate to grow and enjoy. Brugmansias can be easily grown in containers.
Growing Brugmansia in Containers
Brugmansias do quite well grown in containers and can be easily grown by a northern gardener in a container. Plant your brugmansia in a rather large container, at least two feet in diameter. Your container brugmansia can go outside when the nighttime temperatures stay above 50 F. (10 C.). and can remain outside until the fall when the nighttime temperatures start to fall below 50 F (10 C.). Be sure to keep your container brugmansia thoroughly watered while you keep it outside. They do need a lot of water and your container brugmansia may need to be watered up to twice a day.
Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container grown brugmansia will reach a height of about 12 feet. Of course, if this is too high, a container grown brugmansia tree can be easily trained into a smaller tree or even a shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Overwintering Brugmanias in Containers
Once the weather turns colder and you need to bring your brugmansia in from the cold, you have two options for over wintering your container brugmansia. The first is to simply treat your container brugmansia as a houseplant. Put it in a sunny location and water as the soil dries out. You probably will not see any flowers while your container brugmansia lives in the house, but it has nice foliage.
Your other option is to force the container brugmansia into dormancy. To do this, put your brugmansia in a cool (but not cold), dark place, such as a garage, a basement or a closet. If you would like, you may trim your container brugmansia back by about a third before you store it. This will not hurt the plant and may make storage a little easier for you. One the plant is stored, water it sparingly, only about once per month. Be warned, your container brugmansia is going to start to look pretty pathetic. It will lose its leaves and some of the outer branches may die. Do not panic. As long as the trunk of the brugmansia tree is still green, your container brugmansia is alive and well. The tree is only sleeping.
A month or so before it is warm enough to take your container brugmansia back outside, start to water your brugmansia more frequently, about once a week. If you have room in your house, bring the container brugmansia out of its storage space or set up a fluorescent light bulb to shine on the brugmansia. In about a week you will start to see some leaves and branches start to grow. You will find that your container brugmansia will come out of dormancy very quickly. Once you put your container brugmansia back outside, its growth will be very rapid and you will have a lush, breathtaking, flower filled brugmansia tree again in just a matter of weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you have a large property that needs some shade, consider growing beech trees. American beech (Fagus grandifolia) is a stately tree that makes a big impression when grown singly on an open site or when used to line driveways on large estates. Don’t try growing beech trees in an urban setting though. The branches on this huge tree extend low on the trunk, creating an obstacle to pedestrians, and the dense shade makes it nearly impossible to grow anything under the tree.
Beech Tree Identification
It’s easy to recognize a beech tree by its smooth, gray bark, which the tree keeps throughout its lifespan. In shady sites, beech trees have a massive, straight trunk that soars to a height of 80 feet or more. The crown stays small but dense in shade. The trees are shorter in full sun, but they develop a large, spreading crown.
Beech tree leaves are about 6 inches long and 2 ½ inches wide with saw-tooth edges and lots of side veins. The flowers generally go unnoticed. Small, yellow male flowers bloom in round clusters along the branches and tiny, red female flowers bloom at the ends of the branches in early spring. After pollination, the female flowers give way to edible beech nuts, which are enjoyed by a number of small mammals and birds. The American beech is the variety commonly seen in the United States, although there are several types of beech trees found throughout Europe and Asia. The American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) is sometimes called blue beech, but it is an unrelated species of small tree or shrub.
Beech Tree Planting
Plant beech trees in a good, rich, acidic soil that isn’t compacted. It likes moist, well-drained soil. The dense crown spreads 40 to 60 feet at maturity, so give it plenty of room. Beech trees live 200 to 300 years, so choose the site carefully. Dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball to loosen the soil around the planting area. This encourages the roots to spread into the surrounding soil rather than staying in the hole. If the soil isn’t particularly rich, add a few shovels full of compost to the fill dirt. Don’t add any other amendments at planting time.
Care of Beech Trees
Newly planted beech trees need plenty of moisture, so water them weekly in the absence of rain. Mature trees withstand moderate drought, but they’ll do best with a good soaking when you’ve been a month or more without a drenching rain. Spread a 2 or 3 inch layer of mulch over the root zone of young trees to help the soil retain moisture. Once the dense crown develops, mulch is no longer necessary, but it keeps the bare ground around the tree looking neat. Beech trees need regular fertilization. Spread the fertilizer over the root zone and then water it in. Use a pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square foot of the root zone. The root zone extends a foot or so beyond the canopy of the tree.
Beech Tree Identification
It’s easy to recognize a beech tree by its smooth, gray bark, which the tree keeps throughout its lifespan. In shady sites, beech trees have a massive, straight trunk that soars to a height of 80 feet or more. The crown stays small but dense in shade. The trees are shorter in full sun, but they develop a large, spreading crown.
Beech tree leaves are about 6 inches long and 2 ½ inches wide with saw-tooth edges and lots of side veins. The flowers generally go unnoticed. Small, yellow male flowers bloom in round clusters along the branches and tiny, red female flowers bloom at the ends of the branches in early spring. After pollination, the female flowers give way to edible beech nuts, which are enjoyed by a number of small mammals and birds. The American beech is the variety commonly seen in the United States, although there are several types of beech trees found throughout Europe and Asia. The American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) is sometimes called blue beech, but it is an unrelated species of small tree or shrub.
Beech Tree Planting
Plant beech trees in a good, rich, acidic soil that isn’t compacted. It likes moist, well-drained soil. The dense crown spreads 40 to 60 feet at maturity, so give it plenty of room. Beech trees live 200 to 300 years, so choose the site carefully. Dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball to loosen the soil around the planting area. This encourages the roots to spread into the surrounding soil rather than staying in the hole. If the soil isn’t particularly rich, add a few shovels full of compost to the fill dirt. Don’t add any other amendments at planting time.
Care of Beech Trees
Newly planted beech trees need plenty of moisture, so water them weekly in the absence of rain. Mature trees withstand moderate drought, but they’ll do best with a good soaking when you’ve been a month or more without a drenching rain. Spread a 2 or 3 inch layer of mulch over the root zone of young trees to help the soil retain moisture. Once the dense crown develops, mulch is no longer necessary, but it keeps the bare ground around the tree looking neat. Beech trees need regular fertilization. Spread the fertilizer over the root zone and then water it in. Use a pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square foot of the root zone. The root zone extends a foot or so beyond the canopy of the tree.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
With showy, white flowers that bloom in summer and attractive, glossy evergreen foliage, beauty leaf trees are tropical gems that deserve their name. They grow slowly to a height of up to 50 feet with a lush canopy that spreads 30 to 50 feet. Their intense fragrance and dense shade make them highly desirable specimen trees, but as you’ll see, they aren’t suitable for most North American landscapes.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The Emerald ash tree borer (EAB) is an invasive, non native insect discovered in the U.S. during the last decade. Ash borer damage is significant in all species of North American ash trees that become infected. Susceptible trees include white, green and black ash. Know where your ash trees are located and scout for the pest in June and July as the first step to prevent ash borer from causing serious or deadly damage.
Emerald Ash Borer Characteristics
The emerald ash borer is so named for its emerald green color. The insect is about ½ inch long and leaves D-shaped holes when exiting the ash trees interior. The pest lays eggs and leaves the larvae to hatch inside valuable ash trees, where they create serpentine tunnels that interfere with the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients throughout its tissues. Learning how to protect ash trees from ash borer can save your trees.
How To Protect Ash Trees From Ash Borer
Controlling the spread of emerald ash borer begins with keeping ash trees healthy and unstressed. The insect is usually spread through human activities, such as moving infested firewood. Prevent ash borer by inspecting firewood closely before purchasing and buy locally when possible. Do not transport firewood if you live in an area that has an ash borer population. Identifying ash trees is another step to lessen ash borer damage. Insecticidal treatments may slow damage to trees that are valued for shade or historic purposes. Ash tree borer treatment should be applied in May before adult insects emerge.
Ash tree borer treatment is not needed until the emerald ash borer is spotted within a 15 mile radius, unless symptoms are visible on your ash trees. Symptoms include canopy dieback, D-shaped exit holes and bark splitting on your ash trees. If you see what appears to be ash tree borer damage, you may contact a certified arborist about how to protect ash trees from ash borer and what ash tree borer treatment works best in your situation. The tree professional may do systemic injections to kill larvae already inside the tree. Visible emerald ash borer characteristics and damage may be lessened with soil treatments and bark and foliage sprays.
For the homeowner who spots ash borer damage and wishes to do their own ash tree borer treatment, a soil application of imidacloprid can be applied, (such as Bayer Advanced). Most chemicals to control ash borer damage require a pesticide applicator license for purchase.
Emerald Ash Borer Characteristics
The emerald ash borer is so named for its emerald green color. The insect is about ½ inch long and leaves D-shaped holes when exiting the ash trees interior. The pest lays eggs and leaves the larvae to hatch inside valuable ash trees, where they create serpentine tunnels that interfere with the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients throughout its tissues. Learning how to protect ash trees from ash borer can save your trees.
How To Protect Ash Trees From Ash Borer
Controlling the spread of emerald ash borer begins with keeping ash trees healthy and unstressed. The insect is usually spread through human activities, such as moving infested firewood. Prevent ash borer by inspecting firewood closely before purchasing and buy locally when possible. Do not transport firewood if you live in an area that has an ash borer population. Identifying ash trees is another step to lessen ash borer damage. Insecticidal treatments may slow damage to trees that are valued for shade or historic purposes. Ash tree borer treatment should be applied in May before adult insects emerge.
Ash tree borer treatment is not needed until the emerald ash borer is spotted within a 15 mile radius, unless symptoms are visible on your ash trees. Symptoms include canopy dieback, D-shaped exit holes and bark splitting on your ash trees. If you see what appears to be ash tree borer damage, you may contact a certified arborist about how to protect ash trees from ash borer and what ash tree borer treatment works best in your situation. The tree professional may do systemic injections to kill larvae already inside the tree. Visible emerald ash borer characteristics and damage may be lessened with soil treatments and bark and foliage sprays.
For the homeowner who spots ash borer damage and wishes to do their own ash tree borer treatment, a soil application of imidacloprid can be applied, (such as Bayer Advanced). Most chemicals to control ash borer damage require a pesticide applicator license for purchase.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash trees make graceful landscape plants, but when your trees are stressed or plagued by pests, they may begin to shed bark in response to the damage they’re experiencing. As a good ash tree owner, it’s your job to determine if ash tree bark peeling is a sign of environmental problems or if the bark coming off ash trees is due to boring beetles. Read on for more information on these common ash tree problems and their management.
Shedding Bark on Ash Trees
When your ash tree is shedding bark, it may feel like time to panic, but try to keep your cool, often, this is simply indicating an easily correctable environmental problem. Ash trees typically grow on or near the banks of permanent water sources like streams and ponds. Because of this, they’re not very adaptable when the weather dries out and they can’t get the moisture they require.
Often, they’ll shed bark in protest, but quick action on your part can slow or stop your ash tree losing bark. Provide the tree in question with ample water, up to 210 gallons a week during the summer for a tree with a 15-foot wide canopy, being sure to water at the drip line instead of near the trunk. An irrigation system can help keep your thirsty ash tree supplied with water.
Other stressors like a sudden change in environment, such as trenching, removing the grass around the tree, herbicide use, over-fertilization or the failure of your irrigation system can also end in bark shedding. Water a stressed tree well, withholding fertilizer until the tree show signs of improvement.
Ash Tree Losing Bark from Emerald Ash Borers and Sunburn
Over-pruning is a common cause of an ash tree bark problem; the removal of branches that once shaded the trunk can lead to sunburn on these previously protected tissues. Sunburned bark may peel and fall off the tree in question and emerald ash borers can find their way to these easy to penetrate areas of tissue. Once sunburn has occurred, there’s no way to repair it but you can prevent it in the future by being careful to prune out less than a quarter of the living branches of an ash tree during any season. Check your damaged tree’s trunk for small holes before dressing the wounded areas with a trunk wrap or painting it with white latex paint mixed with equal parts water. If tiny d-shaped holes are peppered in the areas of peeling bark, you have a much more serious problem on your hands. This is the telltale sign of the emerald ash borer, a serious pest of ash trees. Trees that have been infested a while may have many dying branches and aggressive shoot growth around the base of the tree in addition to the bark peeling and holes in the trunk.
Generally, borers are a death sentence for a tree – these insect pests spend most of their lives inside affected trees, causing a slow decline as they chew through the transport tissues that keep the tree hydrated and nourished. Once these are severed, it’s only a matter of time before the tree dies. A large tree can present a serious hazard to objects and people on the ground below – have your tree evaluated by an arborist if you suspect borers. Removal is typically your only option.
Shedding Bark on Ash Trees
When your ash tree is shedding bark, it may feel like time to panic, but try to keep your cool, often, this is simply indicating an easily correctable environmental problem. Ash trees typically grow on or near the banks of permanent water sources like streams and ponds. Because of this, they’re not very adaptable when the weather dries out and they can’t get the moisture they require.
Often, they’ll shed bark in protest, but quick action on your part can slow or stop your ash tree losing bark. Provide the tree in question with ample water, up to 210 gallons a week during the summer for a tree with a 15-foot wide canopy, being sure to water at the drip line instead of near the trunk. An irrigation system can help keep your thirsty ash tree supplied with water.
Other stressors like a sudden change in environment, such as trenching, removing the grass around the tree, herbicide use, over-fertilization or the failure of your irrigation system can also end in bark shedding. Water a stressed tree well, withholding fertilizer until the tree show signs of improvement.
Ash Tree Losing Bark from Emerald Ash Borers and Sunburn
Over-pruning is a common cause of an ash tree bark problem; the removal of branches that once shaded the trunk can lead to sunburn on these previously protected tissues. Sunburned bark may peel and fall off the tree in question and emerald ash borers can find their way to these easy to penetrate areas of tissue. Once sunburn has occurred, there’s no way to repair it but you can prevent it in the future by being careful to prune out less than a quarter of the living branches of an ash tree during any season. Check your damaged tree’s trunk for small holes before dressing the wounded areas with a trunk wrap or painting it with white latex paint mixed with equal parts water. If tiny d-shaped holes are peppered in the areas of peeling bark, you have a much more serious problem on your hands. This is the telltale sign of the emerald ash borer, a serious pest of ash trees. Trees that have been infested a while may have many dying branches and aggressive shoot growth around the base of the tree in addition to the bark peeling and holes in the trunk.
Generally, borers are a death sentence for a tree – these insect pests spend most of their lives inside affected trees, causing a slow decline as they chew through the transport tissues that keep the tree hydrated and nourished. Once these are severed, it’s only a matter of time before the tree dies. A large tree can present a serious hazard to objects and people on the ground below – have your tree evaluated by an arborist if you suspect borers. Removal is typically your only option.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Homeowners love the claret ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. oxycarpa) for its fast growth and its rounded crown of dark, lacy leaves. Before you start growing claret ash trees, be sure your backyard is big enough since these trees can grow 80 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. Read on for more claret ash tree information.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash trees are popular and attractive landscape trees. However, pruning ash trees is essential if you want healthy, vigorous specimens. Cutting back ash trees appropriately helps to establish a strong branch structure around a central leader. It can also reduce diseases and limit pest damage. Read on to learn how to prune ash trees.
Reasons for Pruning Ash Trees
Ash trees are handsome deciduous trees, native to North America. They offer attractive, rounded crowns in the growing season and beautiful autumn colors. The wood is hard, but agile, and most baseball bats are made of ash. Ash trees have an opposite branching structure. The opposing branch growth usually requires pruning to keep the tree balanced. In addition, the tree can be attacked by diseases and pests that can be controlled by pruning.
Cutting Back Ash Trees
Trimming your tree is not difficult, but it helps if you follow a few ash tree pruning tips.
When to Prune Ash Trees
When to prune ash trees depends in part on why you are making the particular pruning cut. Unless you are pruning to remove dead and diseased branches, you should take care to prune in late winter, while the tree is still dormant. For example, if you must remove live branches to allow additional sunlight and air to circulate inside the tree crown, wait until winter to act.
Prune out broken, diseased, infected or dead ash tree branches whenever you spot them. The sooner you remove these branches, the less likely it is that decay-producing fungi spread to other areas of the tree. When you inspect the tree for problem branches, be sure to look at the underside of tree bark for an S-shaped pattern. This indicates the presence of the Emerald Ash wood-boring beetles, a pest that can quickly kill the tree. If you notice defoliation of some branches, it may be a sign of anthracnose. Any signs of brown areas on leaves or cankers on the branches should be your call to start pruning back ash trees in the very near future. These pests weaken the tree and can create serious problems if not addressed quickly by trimming back ash trees.
How to Prune Ash Trees
Use a three-step trimming method to remove branches from an ash tree. First, make a cut on the underside of the diseased or damaged branch. This cut should pass a quarter of the way through the branch about half a foot from the branch collar. Next, cut off the branch completely, making the cut one inch past the initial cut. This cut should be made from the top side of the branch. When you finish this cut, the branch will fall away. As a final step, remove the branch stump.
Reasons for Pruning Ash Trees
Ash trees are handsome deciduous trees, native to North America. They offer attractive, rounded crowns in the growing season and beautiful autumn colors. The wood is hard, but agile, and most baseball bats are made of ash. Ash trees have an opposite branching structure. The opposing branch growth usually requires pruning to keep the tree balanced. In addition, the tree can be attacked by diseases and pests that can be controlled by pruning.
Cutting Back Ash Trees
Trimming your tree is not difficult, but it helps if you follow a few ash tree pruning tips.
When to Prune Ash Trees
When to prune ash trees depends in part on why you are making the particular pruning cut. Unless you are pruning to remove dead and diseased branches, you should take care to prune in late winter, while the tree is still dormant. For example, if you must remove live branches to allow additional sunlight and air to circulate inside the tree crown, wait until winter to act.
Prune out broken, diseased, infected or dead ash tree branches whenever you spot them. The sooner you remove these branches, the less likely it is that decay-producing fungi spread to other areas of the tree. When you inspect the tree for problem branches, be sure to look at the underside of tree bark for an S-shaped pattern. This indicates the presence of the Emerald Ash wood-boring beetles, a pest that can quickly kill the tree. If you notice defoliation of some branches, it may be a sign of anthracnose. Any signs of brown areas on leaves or cankers on the branches should be your call to start pruning back ash trees in the very near future. These pests weaken the tree and can create serious problems if not addressed quickly by trimming back ash trees.
How to Prune Ash Trees
Use a three-step trimming method to remove branches from an ash tree. First, make a cut on the underside of the diseased or damaged branch. This cut should pass a quarter of the way through the branch about half a foot from the branch collar. Next, cut off the branch completely, making the cut one inch past the initial cut. This cut should be made from the top side of the branch. When you finish this cut, the branch will fall away. As a final step, remove the branch stump.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Many native deciduous trees, like ash, can leak sap as a result of a common bacterial disease called slime flux or wetwood. Your ash tree may ooze sap from this infection, but you might also see, coming from the bark, foaming white material that does not look at all like sap. Read on for information about why an ash tree is dripping sap.
Why is My Tree Leaking Sap?
The bacterial infection called slime flux results when bacteria grows inside a wounded tree. Several types of bacteria are implicated, although botanists have not identified a main culprit. These bacteria generally attack an ill tree or one that is stressed from too little water. Usually, they enter through a wound in the bark.
Inside the tree, fermentation occurs from the bacteria and carbon dioxide gas is released. The pressure of the gas release pushes the ash tree’s sap through the wound. Sap spills out, making the outside of the tree trunk look wet. An ash tree leaking sap is very likely infected by these bacteria. This is especially true if there is foam mixed with the sap.
Why is My Ash Tree Oozing Foam?
The wet areas of sap on the outside of your ash tree become breeding grounds for other organisms. If alcohol is produced, the sap foams, bubbles and produces an awful smell. It looks like an ash tree oozing foam. You may see many different types of insects and insect larva coming to dine on the spilled sap and foam. Don’t be alarmed, since the infection cannot be spread to other trees by means of insects.
What to Do When an Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
The best offense in this case is a good defense. Your ash tree is far more likely to get infected by slime flux if it suffers from drought stress. In addition, the bacteria usually seeks a wound to enter. You can help the tree to avoid this infection by watering it regularly when the weather is dry. One good soaking every two weeks is probably enough. And take care not to wound the tree trunk when you are weed-whacking nearby. If, despite these precautions, your tree continues to ooze sap, there is little you can do to help the tree. Remember that most trees with slime flux do not die of it. A small infected wound is very likely to heal on its own.
Other Reasons My Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
Ash trees are often are infested by aphids or scales, both small but common insects. It is possible that the liquid you identify as sap is actually honeydew, a waste produce produced by aphids and scales. Honeydew looks like sap when it falls like rain from a tree badly infected with these bugs, coating bark and leaves. On the other hand, don’t feel you need to take action. If you leave aphids and scale alone, no grand harm comes to the tree and predator insects usually step up to the plate. Other insects affecting this tree, and possibly causing it to leak sap, include the emerald ash borer.
Why is My Tree Leaking Sap?
The bacterial infection called slime flux results when bacteria grows inside a wounded tree. Several types of bacteria are implicated, although botanists have not identified a main culprit. These bacteria generally attack an ill tree or one that is stressed from too little water. Usually, they enter through a wound in the bark.
Inside the tree, fermentation occurs from the bacteria and carbon dioxide gas is released. The pressure of the gas release pushes the ash tree’s sap through the wound. Sap spills out, making the outside of the tree trunk look wet. An ash tree leaking sap is very likely infected by these bacteria. This is especially true if there is foam mixed with the sap.
Why is My Ash Tree Oozing Foam?
The wet areas of sap on the outside of your ash tree become breeding grounds for other organisms. If alcohol is produced, the sap foams, bubbles and produces an awful smell. It looks like an ash tree oozing foam. You may see many different types of insects and insect larva coming to dine on the spilled sap and foam. Don’t be alarmed, since the infection cannot be spread to other trees by means of insects.
What to Do When an Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
The best offense in this case is a good defense. Your ash tree is far more likely to get infected by slime flux if it suffers from drought stress. In addition, the bacteria usually seeks a wound to enter. You can help the tree to avoid this infection by watering it regularly when the weather is dry. One good soaking every two weeks is probably enough. And take care not to wound the tree trunk when you are weed-whacking nearby. If, despite these precautions, your tree continues to ooze sap, there is little you can do to help the tree. Remember that most trees with slime flux do not die of it. A small infected wound is very likely to heal on its own.
Other Reasons My Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
Ash trees are often are infested by aphids or scales, both small but common insects. It is possible that the liquid you identify as sap is actually honeydew, a waste produce produced by aphids and scales. Honeydew looks like sap when it falls like rain from a tree badly infected with these bugs, coating bark and leaves. On the other hand, don’t feel you need to take action. If you leave aphids and scale alone, no grand harm comes to the tree and predator insects usually step up to the plate. Other insects affecting this tree, and possibly causing it to leak sap, include the emerald ash borer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash yellows is a devastating disease of ash trees and related plants. It can infect lilacs as well. Find out how to recognize the disease and what you can do to prevent it in this article.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
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