文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber tree plants, (Ficus elastica) tend to get rather large and need to be pruned in order to control their size. Overgrown rubber trees have difficulty supporting the weight of their branches, resulting in an unsightly display and possible snapping of the branches. Pruning a rubber tree plant isn’t overly complicated and it actually responds well to pruning. 
When to Prune a Rubber Tree
Rubber tree plants are quite resilient and rubber tree trimming can basically take place any time of the year. In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. However, these plants will usually respond faster to pruning during late spring or early summer—around June. This is also considered a good time for taking cuttings, as they are thought to root quicker and easier.
How to Trim a Rubber Tree Plant
Whether it’s simply a subtle, orderly trim or a hard, heavy prune, rubber tree trimming takes little effort and results in a nice, full plant. As long as you keep in mind the fact that this plant grows back from the next nodes down, you can cut it to whatever length and style you want. Before you prune a rubber tree, make sure your pruning shears are clean and sharp. It may also be a good idea to wear gloves to prevent any irritation from its milk-like sap.
Step back and study the shape of your tree to get an idea of how you would like it to look. Prune rubber tree plant by making your cuts just above a node — where the leaf attaches to the stem or where another stem branches off. You can also prune just above a leaf scar. Remove about a third to one-half of the plant’s branches but take care not to remove too much foliage than is necessary. New growth will eventually appear from these cuts so don’t be alarmed if the plant seems a bit haggard looking following pruning.
When to Prune a Rubber Tree
Rubber tree plants are quite resilient and rubber tree trimming can basically take place any time of the year. In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. However, these plants will usually respond faster to pruning during late spring or early summer—around June. This is also considered a good time for taking cuttings, as they are thought to root quicker and easier.
How to Trim a Rubber Tree Plant
Whether it’s simply a subtle, orderly trim or a hard, heavy prune, rubber tree trimming takes little effort and results in a nice, full plant. As long as you keep in mind the fact that this plant grows back from the next nodes down, you can cut it to whatever length and style you want. Before you prune a rubber tree, make sure your pruning shears are clean and sharp. It may also be a good idea to wear gloves to prevent any irritation from its milk-like sap.
Step back and study the shape of your tree to get an idea of how you would like it to look. Prune rubber tree plant by making your cuts just above a node — where the leaf attaches to the stem or where another stem branches off. You can also prune just above a leaf scar. Remove about a third to one-half of the plant’s branches but take care not to remove too much foliage than is necessary. New growth will eventually appear from these cuts so don’t be alarmed if the plant seems a bit haggard looking following pruning.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
A rubber tree plant is also known as a Ficus elastica. These large trees can grow up to 50 feet tall. When learning how to care for a rubber tree plant, there are a few key things to remember, but rubber plant care isn’t as difficult as one might think. Starting with a young rubber tree houseplant will allow it to adapt to being an indoor plant better than starting with a more mature plant.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Gardeners seeking a palm tree specimen to accent the garden or home will want to know how to grow the pygmy date palm tree. Pygmy palm growing is relatively simple given suitable conditions, though pruning pygmy palm trees is sometimes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller settings.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palms (Beaucarnea recurvata) are distinctive plants that you are not likely to confuse with any other small trees in your garden. Slow growers, these palms have swollen trunk bases that taper. They are best known for the long, slender cascading leaves that are arranged in much the same way as a pony’s tail. Growing ponytail palm outdoors is possible in warmer climates and caring for ponytail palm outdoors is not difficult. Read on for more information about how to grow a ponytail palm outside.
Can You Plant Ponytail Palms Outside?
If you live in a very warm climate like that found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing ponytail palm outdoors is entirely feasible. They can grow to 30 feet tall, but rarely do as houseplants. Plant them as small, unusual specimen trees or else in containers on the patio. If you start a ponytail palm indoors and decide to move it to a permanent outdoor location, be patient and take your time. Ponytail palm plant care in this circumstance dictates that the plant be exposed to the increased light and altered temperature gradually, over a number of days or weeks.
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm Outside
Caring for ponytail palm outdoors requires a knowledge of ponytail palm plant care. These lovely little trees thrive in full sun with generous but infrequent irrigation. Overwatering is a serious problem for ponytail palms grown as houseplants. Remember that the common name of this plant is slightly misleading. The ponytail palm is not a palm at all but related to the water-sparing yucca family. Expect this plant to store water in its swollen trunk base to help it through dry, hot weather.
Growing ponytail palm outdoors is only possible in well-drained soils, since the plant develops root rot in wet earth. On the other hand, the plant accepts most soil types, including sandy and loamy. Even with the best ponytail palm plant care, you will have to wait a long time for this tree to branch. If you are hoping to see the showy flower clusters, you may have to wait even longer. They only grow on established trees.
Can You Plant Ponytail Palms Outside?
If you live in a very warm climate like that found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing ponytail palm outdoors is entirely feasible. They can grow to 30 feet tall, but rarely do as houseplants. Plant them as small, unusual specimen trees or else in containers on the patio. If you start a ponytail palm indoors and decide to move it to a permanent outdoor location, be patient and take your time. Ponytail palm plant care in this circumstance dictates that the plant be exposed to the increased light and altered temperature gradually, over a number of days or weeks.
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm Outside
Caring for ponytail palm outdoors requires a knowledge of ponytail palm plant care. These lovely little trees thrive in full sun with generous but infrequent irrigation. Overwatering is a serious problem for ponytail palms grown as houseplants. Remember that the common name of this plant is slightly misleading. The ponytail palm is not a palm at all but related to the water-sparing yucca family. Expect this plant to store water in its swollen trunk base to help it through dry, hot weather.
Growing ponytail palm outdoors is only possible in well-drained soils, since the plant develops root rot in wet earth. On the other hand, the plant accepts most soil types, including sandy and loamy. Even with the best ponytail palm plant care, you will have to wait a long time for this tree to branch. If you are hoping to see the showy flower clusters, you may have to wait even longer. They only grow on established trees.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Unlike typical desert cacti, Christmas cactus is native to the tropical rain forest. Although the climate is damp for much of the year, the roots dry quickly because the plants grow not in soil, but in decayed leaves in the branches of trees. Christmas cactus problems are usually caused by improper watering or poor drainage.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Fans of Doctor Seuss illustrated books may find similarity of form in the bizarre boojum tree. The unique architectural shapes of these upright succulents, lend a surreal note to the arid landscape. Growing boojum trees requires bright light and warm temperatures. Among the many interesting boojum tree facts regards its shape. The Spanish name for the tree is Cirio, which means taper or candle.
What is a Boojum Tree?
Boojum trees (Fouquieria columnaris) are native to the Baja California peninsula and parts of the Sonoran desert. The plants are part of rocky hillsides and alluvial plains where water is rare and temperatures may be extreme. What is a boojum tree? The “tree” is actually a striking cacti with an upright form and imposing columnar height. Southern gardeners in arid regions can grow a boojum tree outdoors, while the rest of us will have to content ourselves with greenhouse and interior specimens that will not reach the heights those wild plants can achieve. Cultivated boojum trees may command a price tag of $1000.00 per foot (ouch!). The plants grow slowly, putting on less than a foot of dimension per year and wild harvest is prohibited due to the protected status of this cactus. Boojums in the wild have been found at 70 to 80 feet in height, but cultivated plants are significantly less at only 10 to 20 feet tall. The trees resemble taper candles with tiny bluish-green leaves that drop off when the plant reaches dormancy. These are cool season plants that do the majority of their growth from October to April and then go dormant in the hotter weather. The main stem is succulent and soft while smaller branches appear perpendicular to the trunk. Flowers are creamy white in clusters on the terminal ends of branches from February through March.
Boojum Tree Facts
Boojum trees are named after a mythical thing found in the work, The Hunting of the Snark, by Louis Caroll. Their fantastic form resembles an upside-down carrot and groups of them create quite an astounding display as the vertical trunks snake up from the earth. Boojum trees are quite rare due to seed disputes and their protected wild status. The drought tolerant cacti are perfect in the southwestern landscape and provide vertical appeal that is enhanced by thick-leaved succulents and other xeriscape plants. Gardeners who wish to try growing Boojum trees should have deep pockets, since purchasing even baby plants can be quite expensive. It is illegal to harvest wild plants.
Boojum Tree Care
If you are very lucky, you can try to grow a boojum tree from seed. Seed germination is sporadic and the seeds themselves can be difficult to find. Once seeds are sown, cultivation is similar to any other succulent. The plants need light shade when young but can tolerate full sun when mature. Sandy, well-drained soil is a must with superior drainage, as the worst evil to befall a boojum tree is root rot. Water potted plants once per week when they are actively growing. During dormancy the plant can do with half its normal water needs. Container boojum tree care requires addendum nutrients to supplement the potting mix. Feed the plant in February weekly with balanced fertilizer diluted to half. Growing boojum trees isn’t difficult provided you can find one and you don’t over water or feed the plant.
What is a Boojum Tree?
Boojum trees (Fouquieria columnaris) are native to the Baja California peninsula and parts of the Sonoran desert. The plants are part of rocky hillsides and alluvial plains where water is rare and temperatures may be extreme. What is a boojum tree? The “tree” is actually a striking cacti with an upright form and imposing columnar height. Southern gardeners in arid regions can grow a boojum tree outdoors, while the rest of us will have to content ourselves with greenhouse and interior specimens that will not reach the heights those wild plants can achieve. Cultivated boojum trees may command a price tag of $1000.00 per foot (ouch!). The plants grow slowly, putting on less than a foot of dimension per year and wild harvest is prohibited due to the protected status of this cactus. Boojums in the wild have been found at 70 to 80 feet in height, but cultivated plants are significantly less at only 10 to 20 feet tall. The trees resemble taper candles with tiny bluish-green leaves that drop off when the plant reaches dormancy. These are cool season plants that do the majority of their growth from October to April and then go dormant in the hotter weather. The main stem is succulent and soft while smaller branches appear perpendicular to the trunk. Flowers are creamy white in clusters on the terminal ends of branches from February through March.
Boojum Tree Facts
Boojum trees are named after a mythical thing found in the work, The Hunting of the Snark, by Louis Caroll. Their fantastic form resembles an upside-down carrot and groups of them create quite an astounding display as the vertical trunks snake up from the earth. Boojum trees are quite rare due to seed disputes and their protected wild status. The drought tolerant cacti are perfect in the southwestern landscape and provide vertical appeal that is enhanced by thick-leaved succulents and other xeriscape plants. Gardeners who wish to try growing Boojum trees should have deep pockets, since purchasing even baby plants can be quite expensive. It is illegal to harvest wild plants.
Boojum Tree Care
If you are very lucky, you can try to grow a boojum tree from seed. Seed germination is sporadic and the seeds themselves can be difficult to find. Once seeds are sown, cultivation is similar to any other succulent. The plants need light shade when young but can tolerate full sun when mature. Sandy, well-drained soil is a must with superior drainage, as the worst evil to befall a boojum tree is root rot. Water potted plants once per week when they are actively growing. During dormancy the plant can do with half its normal water needs. Container boojum tree care requires addendum nutrients to supplement the potting mix. Feed the plant in February weekly with balanced fertilizer diluted to half. Growing boojum trees isn’t difficult provided you can find one and you don’t over water or feed the plant.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus trees are a popular houseplant that can be found in many homes, but the attractive and easy to care for ficus trees still have a frustrating habit of dropping leaves, seemingly without reason. This leaves many ficus owners asking, “Why is my ficus losing leaves?” The causes for dropping ficus leaves are many, but when you know what they are, this can help you pin down the reason your ficus tree leaves are falling off.
Reasons for Ficus Tree Dropping Leaves
First of all, realize that it is normal for a ficus tree to lose some leaves. A few leaves dropping of a ficus tree will not hurt it and they will regrow, but if your ficus is losing more than a few leaves, the following reasons could be why:
Change in environment – The most common cause for dropping ficus leaves is that its environment has changed. Often, you will see ficus leaves drop when the seasons change. The humidity and temperature in your house also changes at this time and this can cause ficus trees to lose leaves. If this is affecting your tree, the leaves on the ficus tree may be yellow in addition to falling off. To help with this, try to keep your ficus tree’s environment as stable as possible. Keep it away from drafty windows and doors, air conditioners and heaters. Use a humidifier in the winter, when the air gets dry. And, once you have placed your ficus tree in your home, do not move it.
Incorrect watering – Under watering or over watering both can cause a ficus tree to lose leaves. In an improperly watered ficus tree may have yellowing leaves and the ficus tree leaves may curl. Water the soil only when the very top of the soil is dry, but also make sure that your ficus tree’s pot has good drainage. If you accidentally let your ficus tree’s soil dry out completely, you may need to soak the tree’s container in the tub for an hour to properly rehydrate the soil. If you have overwatered, root rot may have set in and you will need to treat the ficus tree for that.
Too little light – Another reason for ficus tree leaves falling off is that the tree is getting too little light. Often, a ficus tree that is getting too little light will look sparse and spindly. New leaves may also appear pale or even white. In this case, you should move the ficus tree to a location where it will get more light. Pests – Ficus trees are susceptible to a few pests that can cause a ficus tree to drop leaves. Often, a sure sign of a pest problem will be that the leaves on the ficus tree will be sticky or have liquid dripping off them as well as falling off. If this is the problem, you will need to treat the plant with insecticide like neem oil.
Fungus – Ficus trees are also occasionally affected by fungus, which can make the tree drop its leaves. Often, a ficus tree with a fungus will have yellow or brown spots on the leaves. To correct treat this reason for ficus tree leaves falling off, use fungicide (like neem oil) on the tree.
Reasons for Ficus Tree Dropping Leaves
First of all, realize that it is normal for a ficus tree to lose some leaves. A few leaves dropping of a ficus tree will not hurt it and they will regrow, but if your ficus is losing more than a few leaves, the following reasons could be why:
Change in environment – The most common cause for dropping ficus leaves is that its environment has changed. Often, you will see ficus leaves drop when the seasons change. The humidity and temperature in your house also changes at this time and this can cause ficus trees to lose leaves. If this is affecting your tree, the leaves on the ficus tree may be yellow in addition to falling off. To help with this, try to keep your ficus tree’s environment as stable as possible. Keep it away from drafty windows and doors, air conditioners and heaters. Use a humidifier in the winter, when the air gets dry. And, once you have placed your ficus tree in your home, do not move it.
Incorrect watering – Under watering or over watering both can cause a ficus tree to lose leaves. In an improperly watered ficus tree may have yellowing leaves and the ficus tree leaves may curl. Water the soil only when the very top of the soil is dry, but also make sure that your ficus tree’s pot has good drainage. If you accidentally let your ficus tree’s soil dry out completely, you may need to soak the tree’s container in the tub for an hour to properly rehydrate the soil. If you have overwatered, root rot may have set in and you will need to treat the ficus tree for that.
Too little light – Another reason for ficus tree leaves falling off is that the tree is getting too little light. Often, a ficus tree that is getting too little light will look sparse and spindly. New leaves may also appear pale or even white. In this case, you should move the ficus tree to a location where it will get more light. Pests – Ficus trees are susceptible to a few pests that can cause a ficus tree to drop leaves. Often, a sure sign of a pest problem will be that the leaves on the ficus tree will be sticky or have liquid dripping off them as well as falling off. If this is the problem, you will need to treat the plant with insecticide like neem oil.
Fungus – Ficus trees are also occasionally affected by fungus, which can make the tree drop its leaves. Often, a ficus tree with a fungus will have yellow or brown spots on the leaves. To correct treat this reason for ficus tree leaves falling off, use fungicide (like neem oil) on the tree.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Weeping figs (Ficus benjamina) are elegant trees with slender gray trunks and a profusion of green leaves. Weeping fig tree care depends on whether you are growing weeping fig trees indoors or outdoors. Let’s learn more about outdoor care for weeping figs.
Weeping Fig Plant Information
Growing weeping fig trees indoors and growing weeping fig trees outdoors are completely different endeavors. It is almost as if indoor and outdoor weeping figs are different species.
Indoors, weeping figs are attractive container plants that rarely grow above 6 to 8 feet. Outdoors, however, the trees grow into huge specimens (up to 100 feet tall and 50 feet wide) and are often used for hedges. That being said, weeping figs only thrive outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Therefore, most weeping figs are grown as indoor plants. If you are fortunate enough to live in one of these warm, tropical-like areas though, caring for weeping figs outdoors is something you need to know.
Weeping Fig Tree Care Outdoors
As indoor container plants, weeping figs grow quite slowly, but outside, it’s a different story. This plant can quickly become a monster of a tree if not kept pruned, which it tolerates well. In fact, with regards to weeping fig tree pruning, it readily accepts severe pruning, so don’t hesitate to remove any dead foliage when you see it. If you want to do weeping fig tree pruning to shape or reduce the size of the tree, you can take off up to one-third of the outer growth of the canopy at a time. Caring for weeping figs indoors is a matter of selecting an appropriate location. As its roots spread just as fast as it grows tall, the tree can potentially damage foundations. So, if choosing to grow outdoors, plant it well away from the home, at least 30 feet. If you read up on weeping fig plant information, you find that the plant prefers well-drained, moist, loamy soil and thrives in a location with bright, indirect sunlight indoors. Outdoors is pretty much the same with a few exceptions. The tree can grow well in full sun to shade.
Once established, creeping figs are fairly drought and heat tolerant. They are said to be hardy to 30 F. (-1 C.) but just one hard frost can cause severe damage to the tree. However, when grown in areas with less harsh winters, most will rebound provided the roots are protected. Adding a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch can help. Outdoor problems with creeping figs include freezing temps; severe drought; high winds; and insect pests, especially thrips. Weeping fig tree care can be tricky since issues are often hard to diagnose. No matter what the problem, the tree reacts the same way: it drops leaves. Most experts agree that the number one cause of leaf drop in weeping fig is overwatering (especially indoors). A good rule of thumb is to keep your tree’s soil moist but never wet, backing off in the winter. You can provide the tree with liquid fertilizer about once a month during the growing season, but outdoors this isn’t usually necessary or advisable due to its faster growth.
Weeping Fig Plant Information
Growing weeping fig trees indoors and growing weeping fig trees outdoors are completely different endeavors. It is almost as if indoor and outdoor weeping figs are different species.
Indoors, weeping figs are attractive container plants that rarely grow above 6 to 8 feet. Outdoors, however, the trees grow into huge specimens (up to 100 feet tall and 50 feet wide) and are often used for hedges. That being said, weeping figs only thrive outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Therefore, most weeping figs are grown as indoor plants. If you are fortunate enough to live in one of these warm, tropical-like areas though, caring for weeping figs outdoors is something you need to know.
Weeping Fig Tree Care Outdoors
As indoor container plants, weeping figs grow quite slowly, but outside, it’s a different story. This plant can quickly become a monster of a tree if not kept pruned, which it tolerates well. In fact, with regards to weeping fig tree pruning, it readily accepts severe pruning, so don’t hesitate to remove any dead foliage when you see it. If you want to do weeping fig tree pruning to shape or reduce the size of the tree, you can take off up to one-third of the outer growth of the canopy at a time. Caring for weeping figs indoors is a matter of selecting an appropriate location. As its roots spread just as fast as it grows tall, the tree can potentially damage foundations. So, if choosing to grow outdoors, plant it well away from the home, at least 30 feet. If you read up on weeping fig plant information, you find that the plant prefers well-drained, moist, loamy soil and thrives in a location with bright, indirect sunlight indoors. Outdoors is pretty much the same with a few exceptions. The tree can grow well in full sun to shade.
Once established, creeping figs are fairly drought and heat tolerant. They are said to be hardy to 30 F. (-1 C.) but just one hard frost can cause severe damage to the tree. However, when grown in areas with less harsh winters, most will rebound provided the roots are protected. Adding a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch can help. Outdoor problems with creeping figs include freezing temps; severe drought; high winds; and insect pests, especially thrips. Weeping fig tree care can be tricky since issues are often hard to diagnose. No matter what the problem, the tree reacts the same way: it drops leaves. Most experts agree that the number one cause of leaf drop in weeping fig is overwatering (especially indoors). A good rule of thumb is to keep your tree’s soil moist but never wet, backing off in the winter. You can provide the tree with liquid fertilizer about once a month during the growing season, but outdoors this isn’t usually necessary or advisable due to its faster growth.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus trees are a common plant in the home and office, mainly because they look like a typical tree with a single trunk and a spreading canopy. But for all of their popularity, ficus plants are finicky. However, if you know how to care for a ficus tree, you’ll be better equipped with keeping it healthy and happy in your home for years.
Learn About Ficus Houseplants
What is commonly referred to as a ficus is technically a weeping fig. It’s a member of the Ficus genus of plants, which also includes rubber trees and fig fruit trees, but when it comes to houseplants, most people refer to a weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) as simply a ficus. Ficus trees can maintain their tree-like shape regardless of their size, so this makes them ideal for bonsais or for massive houseplants in large spaces. Their leaves can be either dark green or variegated. In recent years, some imaginative nurseries have started to take advantage of their pliable trunks to braid or twist the plants into different forms.
Growing Ficus Indoors
Most ficus trees enjoy bright indirect or filtered light with variegated varieties happily able to take medium light. Bright, direct light may result in scalding of the leaves and leaf loss. Ficus trees also cannot tolerate low temperatures or drafts. They need to be kept in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.) and actually prefer temperatures above 70 F. (21 C.). Cold drafts from windows or doors will harm them, so make sure to place them somewhere where drafts will not be an issue.
How to Care for a Ficus Tree
When growing ficus indoors, it’s important to maintain a relatively high humidity around the plant. Regular misting or setting the ficus tree on a pebble tray filled with water is a great way to increase their humidity, but keep in mind that while they like high humidity, they don’t like overly wet roots. Therefore, when watering, always check the top of the soil first. If the top of the soil is wet, don’t water as this means they have enough moisture. If the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, this indicates that they need water. Also while caring for a ficus plant, be aware that they are rapid growers and require plenty of nutrients to grow well. Fertilize once a month in the spring and summer and once every two months in the fall and winter.
Common Problems When Caring for a Ficus Plant
Almost everyone who has owned a ficus tree has asked themselves at some point, “Why is my ficus tree dropping its leaves?” A ficus tree losing its leaves is the most common problem these plants have. Leaf drop is a ficus tree’s standard reaction to stress, whether it’s from any of the following: Under watering or over watering Low humidity Too little light Relocation or repotting Drafts Change in temperature (too hot or cold) Pests If your ficus is losing its leaves, go through the checklist of proper ficus tree care and correct anything that you find wrong. Ficus are also prone to pests such as mealybugs, scale and spider mites. A healthy ficus tree will not see these problems, but a stressed ficus tree (likely losing leaves) will surely develop a pest problem quickly. “Sap” dripping from a ficus houseplant, which is actually honeydew from an invading pest, is a sure sign of an infestation. Treating the plant with neem oil is a good way to handle any of these pest issues.
Learn About Ficus Houseplants
What is commonly referred to as a ficus is technically a weeping fig. It’s a member of the Ficus genus of plants, which also includes rubber trees and fig fruit trees, but when it comes to houseplants, most people refer to a weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) as simply a ficus. Ficus trees can maintain their tree-like shape regardless of their size, so this makes them ideal for bonsais or for massive houseplants in large spaces. Their leaves can be either dark green or variegated. In recent years, some imaginative nurseries have started to take advantage of their pliable trunks to braid or twist the plants into different forms.
Growing Ficus Indoors
Most ficus trees enjoy bright indirect or filtered light with variegated varieties happily able to take medium light. Bright, direct light may result in scalding of the leaves and leaf loss. Ficus trees also cannot tolerate low temperatures or drafts. They need to be kept in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.) and actually prefer temperatures above 70 F. (21 C.). Cold drafts from windows or doors will harm them, so make sure to place them somewhere where drafts will not be an issue.
How to Care for a Ficus Tree
When growing ficus indoors, it’s important to maintain a relatively high humidity around the plant. Regular misting or setting the ficus tree on a pebble tray filled with water is a great way to increase their humidity, but keep in mind that while they like high humidity, they don’t like overly wet roots. Therefore, when watering, always check the top of the soil first. If the top of the soil is wet, don’t water as this means they have enough moisture. If the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, this indicates that they need water. Also while caring for a ficus plant, be aware that they are rapid growers and require plenty of nutrients to grow well. Fertilize once a month in the spring and summer and once every two months in the fall and winter.
Common Problems When Caring for a Ficus Plant
Almost everyone who has owned a ficus tree has asked themselves at some point, “Why is my ficus tree dropping its leaves?” A ficus tree losing its leaves is the most common problem these plants have. Leaf drop is a ficus tree’s standard reaction to stress, whether it’s from any of the following: Under watering or over watering Low humidity Too little light Relocation or repotting Drafts Change in temperature (too hot or cold) Pests If your ficus is losing its leaves, go through the checklist of proper ficus tree care and correct anything that you find wrong. Ficus are also prone to pests such as mealybugs, scale and spider mites. A healthy ficus tree will not see these problems, but a stressed ficus tree (likely losing leaves) will surely develop a pest problem quickly. “Sap” dripping from a ficus houseplant, which is actually honeydew from an invading pest, is a sure sign of an infestation. Treating the plant with neem oil is a good way to handle any of these pest issues.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Not everyone has the right growing conditions in which to enjoy a taste of the tropics in their garden. However, this doesn’t stop gardeners from enjoying the relaxed, yet elegant feel of tropical plants. Fan palm trees are among the most popular of indoor tropical plants and require bright light conditions and ample space to thrive. Keep reading for tips on growing fan palms.
Types of Fan Palms
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are very popular in the Florida landscape but also make an excellent indoor plant for a sunny room. This neat palm is slow growing and has a single, upright trunk and large leaves that can reach up to 6 feet in length. The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is an attractive, multi stemmed palm for indoor use. Fronds are fan-shaped and sit atop a 4-foot stem. Leaves are grayish-green in color and about 2 feet across at maturity.
Choosing Your Fan Palm Houseplant
The healthier your plant is when you bring it home, the likelier it is to thrive when given the correct attention. Don’t choose plants with extremely dry soil, browning leaves or apparent damage. Fan palms should have rich green foliage and an upright, healthy habit. Starting with a healthy plant will make it much easier to care for your new potted fan palm.
How to Grow Fan Palm Plants
Potting soil used for palm plants should be well draining and any container used for the plant should have ample drainage holes in the bottom. Soil should be moist at all times during the growing season, although it is essential to avoid over-saturation, which can lead to root rot. Growing fan palms isn’t difficult as long as you provide a room temperature of 55-60 F. (13-16 C.). Keep indoor palm plants away from heating or cooling vents or ceiling fans that may cause temperature fluctuations. Unlike many other types of palms, fan palms do best with at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. A south or west-facing window is best.
Fan Palm Care Tips
Allow the plant soil to dry out a little more in the winter than in the summer. A daily mist of water helps to keep humidity levels high. If frond tips become brown, the humidity is too low. A light fertilizer application from late winter through early fall helps fan palm plants remain vital. Spider mites like dusty foliage, so it is critical that fronds are wiped clean on a regular basis. If mites become a problem, use a soapy water mixture to control infestation.
Types of Fan Palms
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are very popular in the Florida landscape but also make an excellent indoor plant for a sunny room. This neat palm is slow growing and has a single, upright trunk and large leaves that can reach up to 6 feet in length. The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is an attractive, multi stemmed palm for indoor use. Fronds are fan-shaped and sit atop a 4-foot stem. Leaves are grayish-green in color and about 2 feet across at maturity.
Choosing Your Fan Palm Houseplant
The healthier your plant is when you bring it home, the likelier it is to thrive when given the correct attention. Don’t choose plants with extremely dry soil, browning leaves or apparent damage. Fan palms should have rich green foliage and an upright, healthy habit. Starting with a healthy plant will make it much easier to care for your new potted fan palm.
How to Grow Fan Palm Plants
Potting soil used for palm plants should be well draining and any container used for the plant should have ample drainage holes in the bottom. Soil should be moist at all times during the growing season, although it is essential to avoid over-saturation, which can lead to root rot. Growing fan palms isn’t difficult as long as you provide a room temperature of 55-60 F. (13-16 C.). Keep indoor palm plants away from heating or cooling vents or ceiling fans that may cause temperature fluctuations. Unlike many other types of palms, fan palms do best with at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. A south or west-facing window is best.
Fan Palm Care Tips
Allow the plant soil to dry out a little more in the winter than in the summer. A daily mist of water helps to keep humidity levels high. If frond tips become brown, the humidity is too low. A light fertilizer application from late winter through early fall helps fan palm plants remain vital. Spider mites like dusty foliage, so it is critical that fronds are wiped clean on a regular basis. If mites become a problem, use a soapy water mixture to control infestation.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Both tropical and rainforests feature an incredible array of plants. Those that dangle from trees, rocks and vertical supports are called epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are called air plants because they have no firm grip in the earth. This fascinating collection of plants is also fun to grow indoors or out in the garden. Find answers on what is an epiphyte plant so you can introduce this unique form to your indoor or outdoor landscape.
What is an Epiphyte Plant?
The word epiphyte comes from the Greek “epi”, which means “upon” and “phyton”, which means plant. One of the amazing adaptations of epiphytes is their ability to attach to vertical surfaces and capture their water and much of their nutrient needs from sources other than soil. They may be found on branches, trunks and other structures. While epiphytes may live on other plants, they are not parasites. There are many types of epiphytes, with the majority being found in tropical and cloud forests. They get their moisture from the air but some even live in desert terrain and gather moisture from fog.
Types of Epiphytes
You might be surprised what plants have the adaptations of epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are usually tropical plants such as bromeliads, but they may also be cacti, orchids, aroids, lichens, moss and ferns. In tropical rain forests, giant philodendrons wrap themselves around trees but are still not tethered to the ground. The adaptations of epiphytes allow them to grow and flourish in areas where ground is difficult to reach or already populated by other plants. Epiphytic plants contribute to a rich ecosystem and provide canopy food and shelter. Not all plants in this group are tree epiphytes. Plants, such as mosses, are epiphytic and may be seen growing on rocks, the sides of houses and other inorganic surfaces.
Adaptations of Epiphytes
The flora in a rainforest is diverse and thickly populated. The competition for light, air, water, nutrients and space is fierce. Therefore, some plants have evolved to become epiphytes. This habit allows them to take advantage of high spaces and upper story light as well as misty, moisture-laden air. Leaf litter and other organic debris catches in tree crotches and other areas, making nutrient-rich nests for air plants.
Epiphyte Plant Care and Growth
Some plant centers sell epiphytic plants for home gardeners. They need to have a mount in some cases, such as Tillandsia. Affix the plant to a wooden board or cork piece. The plants gather much of their moisture from the air, so place them in moderate light in the bathroom where they can get water from shower steam. Another commonly grown epiphyte is the bromeliad. These plants are grown in well-drained soil. Water them in the cup at the base of the plant, which is designed to capture moisture out of misty air. For any epiphytic plant, try to mimic the conditions of its natural habitat. Orchids grow in shredded bark and need average light and moderate moisture. Take care not to overwater epiphytic plants since they supplement their moisture needs from the air. Humid conditions often provide all the moisture a plant will need. You can assist the plant by misting the air around it or putting the pot in a saucer of rocks filled with water.
What is an Epiphyte Plant?
The word epiphyte comes from the Greek “epi”, which means “upon” and “phyton”, which means plant. One of the amazing adaptations of epiphytes is their ability to attach to vertical surfaces and capture their water and much of their nutrient needs from sources other than soil. They may be found on branches, trunks and other structures. While epiphytes may live on other plants, they are not parasites. There are many types of epiphytes, with the majority being found in tropical and cloud forests. They get their moisture from the air but some even live in desert terrain and gather moisture from fog.
Types of Epiphytes
You might be surprised what plants have the adaptations of epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are usually tropical plants such as bromeliads, but they may also be cacti, orchids, aroids, lichens, moss and ferns. In tropical rain forests, giant philodendrons wrap themselves around trees but are still not tethered to the ground. The adaptations of epiphytes allow them to grow and flourish in areas where ground is difficult to reach or already populated by other plants. Epiphytic plants contribute to a rich ecosystem and provide canopy food and shelter. Not all plants in this group are tree epiphytes. Plants, such as mosses, are epiphytic and may be seen growing on rocks, the sides of houses and other inorganic surfaces.
Adaptations of Epiphytes
The flora in a rainforest is diverse and thickly populated. The competition for light, air, water, nutrients and space is fierce. Therefore, some plants have evolved to become epiphytes. This habit allows them to take advantage of high spaces and upper story light as well as misty, moisture-laden air. Leaf litter and other organic debris catches in tree crotches and other areas, making nutrient-rich nests for air plants.
Epiphyte Plant Care and Growth
Some plant centers sell epiphytic plants for home gardeners. They need to have a mount in some cases, such as Tillandsia. Affix the plant to a wooden board or cork piece. The plants gather much of their moisture from the air, so place them in moderate light in the bathroom where they can get water from shower steam. Another commonly grown epiphyte is the bromeliad. These plants are grown in well-drained soil. Water them in the cup at the base of the plant, which is designed to capture moisture out of misty air. For any epiphytic plant, try to mimic the conditions of its natural habitat. Orchids grow in shredded bark and need average light and moderate moisture. Take care not to overwater epiphytic plants since they supplement their moisture needs from the air. Humid conditions often provide all the moisture a plant will need. You can assist the plant by misting the air around it or putting the pot in a saucer of rocks filled with water.
2
2
