文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
White ash trees (Fraxinus americana) are native to the eastern United States and Canada, ranging naturally from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, Texas, and Florida. They are big, beautiful, branching shade trees that turn glorious shades of red to deep purple in the fall. Keep reading to learn white ash tree facts and how to grow a white ash tree.
White Ash Tree Facts
Growing a white ash tree is a long process. If they don’t succumb to disease, the trees can live to be 200 years old. They grow at a moderate rate of about 1 to 2 feet per year. At maturity, they tend to reach between 50 and 80 feet in height and 40 to 50 feet in width.
They also tend to have one leader trunk, with evenly spaced branches growing in a dense, pyramidal fashion. Because of their branching tendencies, they make very good shade trees. The compound leaves grow in 8- to 15-inch long clusters of smaller leaflets. In the fall, these leaves turn stunning shades of red to purple. In the spring, the trees produce purple flowers that give way to 1- to 2-inch long samaras, or single seeds, surrounded by papery wings.
White Ash Tree Care
Growing a white ash tree from seed is possible, though more success is had when they’re transplanted as seedlings. Seedlings grow best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. White ash prefers moist, rich, deep soil and will grow well in a wide range of pH levels.
Unfortunately, white ash is susceptible to a serious problem called ash yellows, or ash dieback. It tends to occur between 39 and 45 degrees of latitude. Another serious problem of this tree is the emerald ash borer.
White Ash Tree Facts
Growing a white ash tree is a long process. If they don’t succumb to disease, the trees can live to be 200 years old. They grow at a moderate rate of about 1 to 2 feet per year. At maturity, they tend to reach between 50 and 80 feet in height and 40 to 50 feet in width.
They also tend to have one leader trunk, with evenly spaced branches growing in a dense, pyramidal fashion. Because of their branching tendencies, they make very good shade trees. The compound leaves grow in 8- to 15-inch long clusters of smaller leaflets. In the fall, these leaves turn stunning shades of red to purple. In the spring, the trees produce purple flowers that give way to 1- to 2-inch long samaras, or single seeds, surrounded by papery wings.
White Ash Tree Care
Growing a white ash tree from seed is possible, though more success is had when they’re transplanted as seedlings. Seedlings grow best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. White ash prefers moist, rich, deep soil and will grow well in a wide range of pH levels.
Unfortunately, white ash is susceptible to a serious problem called ash yellows, or ash dieback. It tends to occur between 39 and 45 degrees of latitude. Another serious problem of this tree is the emerald ash borer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra is a favorite ground cover plant in hard-to-plant areas such as under trees, or in shady areas with poor or acidic soil. Unlike other plants, pachysandra ground cover does not mind competing for its nutrients, and growing pachysandra plants is easy if you have an abundance of shade in your landscape. Learn more about how to plant pachysandra and its care so you can enjoy the small white, fragrant flowers (which appear in the spring) of this low maintenance plant.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Trees make attractive focal points in any landscaping design, but the ground around their trunks can often be a problem. Grass might have a hard time growing around roots and the shade a tree offers can discourage even the hardiest of flowers. Instead of leaving the circle around your tree a line of bare earth, why not install a ring of attractive ground cover? These plants thrive on neglect, requiring less sunlight and moisture than most other garden plants. Surround your trees with circles of ground cover and you’ll give your landscape a professional, finished look.
Ground Cover Plants
Choose your ground cover plants according to the trees around which they’ll live. Some trees, like the Norway maple, have very thick coverage and offer almost no sunlight underneath. Others have sparser branches and smaller leaves, giving you more options to choose from. Find out how large each plant type will eventually spread to determine how many plants you will need to cover the entire area around the tree.
Some good choices for ground cover plants under trees include:
Ajuga
Lungwort
Foamflower
Creeping juniper
Liriope and monkey grass
Periwinkle
Pachysandra
Wild violets
Tips for Planting Ground Covers under a Tree
Like any other part of the landscape you install, planting ground covers under a tree starts with preparing the planting spot. You can plant ground coverage for trees at any time of the year, but early in the spring and later in the fall are the best. Mark a circle around the grass at the base of the tree to indicate the size of your proposed bed. Lay a hose on the ground to indicate the size of the bed, or mark the grass with spray paint. Dig the soil inside the circle and remove all the grass and weeds growing inside.
Use a trowel to dig individual holes for planting the ground cover plants. Stagger the holes instead of digging them in a grid design, for the best eventual coverage. Drop a handful of all-purpose fertilizer in each hole before placing the plants in place. Leave enough room between plants to allow them to fill in the spaces when full grown. Lay a layer of bark or other organic mulch in between the plants to help retain moisture and to shade out any emerging roots.
Water the plants once a week until they begin spreading and have established themselves. At this point, natural rainfall should provide all the water your ground cover under trees should need, except in extremely dry period of drought.
Ground Cover Plants
Choose your ground cover plants according to the trees around which they’ll live. Some trees, like the Norway maple, have very thick coverage and offer almost no sunlight underneath. Others have sparser branches and smaller leaves, giving you more options to choose from. Find out how large each plant type will eventually spread to determine how many plants you will need to cover the entire area around the tree.
Some good choices for ground cover plants under trees include:
Ajuga
Lungwort
Foamflower
Creeping juniper
Liriope and monkey grass
Periwinkle
Pachysandra
Wild violets
Tips for Planting Ground Covers under a Tree
Like any other part of the landscape you install, planting ground covers under a tree starts with preparing the planting spot. You can plant ground coverage for trees at any time of the year, but early in the spring and later in the fall are the best. Mark a circle around the grass at the base of the tree to indicate the size of your proposed bed. Lay a hose on the ground to indicate the size of the bed, or mark the grass with spray paint. Dig the soil inside the circle and remove all the grass and weeds growing inside.
Use a trowel to dig individual holes for planting the ground cover plants. Stagger the holes instead of digging them in a grid design, for the best eventual coverage. Drop a handful of all-purpose fertilizer in each hole before placing the plants in place. Leave enough room between plants to allow them to fill in the spaces when full grown. Lay a layer of bark or other organic mulch in between the plants to help retain moisture and to shade out any emerging roots.
Water the plants once a week until they begin spreading and have established themselves. At this point, natural rainfall should provide all the water your ground cover under trees should need, except in extremely dry period of drought.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The same traits that make English ivy (Hedera helix) a wonderful ground cover can also make it a pain to remove from your yard. Ivy’s resilience and lush growth make killing English ivy or removing ivy from trees a difficult task, but not an impossible one. If you are wondering how to kill an ivy plant, you will find some help below.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
We tend to think of moss as small airy green plants that decorate rocks, trees, ground spaces and even our houses. Spike moss plants, or club moss, are not true mosses but very basic vascular plants. They are related to the family of ferns and closely aligned with fern ecosystems. Can you grow spike moss? You certainly can, and it makes an excellent ground cover but needs consistent moisture to remain green.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Tree roses are not trees but roses that have been grafted onto a trunk that has been grafted onto a rose rootstock. While they look exotic, tree roses have the same growing requirements as regular roses and are bothered by the same pests and diseases. Tree roses come in two shapes, a compact lollipop or a weeping form. The grafts of both forms need to be protected from swaying in strong winds and winter damage because of freezing temperatures. Tree roses create an interesting look in an otherwise blah area of your garden, and with care, can thrive for years.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grown to look like a tree. They range in size from 3 feet to 6 feet tall and come in many colors; there are even weeping rose trees. Rose trees require most of the same care of a regular rose bush. Due to their unique shape, however, they also have some unique requirements of their own.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grafted on rootstock to look like a tree. Rose trees need the same care-planting, watering, feeding, protection from pests and diseases-as regular rose bushes. Like regular rose bushes, they also need to be pruned in early spring. Due to their unusual shape, rose trees need to be pruned differently from their bush counterparts.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Often seen growing in trees in southern regions, Spanish moss is normally viewed as a bad thing. Oh contraire. Trees with Spanish moss can actually be welcome additions by adding something different to the landscape. That being said, there are still those who would prefer to get rid of it. So what is Spanish moss and is Spanish moss removal for you? Continue reading to learn more about Spanish moss and then decide for yourself.
What is Spanish Moss?
What is Spanish moss anyway? Spanish moss is an epiphytic plant that makes its own food from nutrients and moisture that it captures from the air and absorbs from surface cracks and crevices on the host plant. It clings to the supporting tree by wrapping itself around the branches. So will Spanish moss kill a tree? Spanish moss is sometimes blamed for problems it didn’t cause. Spanish moss takes no nourishment or moisture from trees, and only uses them for protection and support. Therefore, since it doesn’t obtain nourishment from the host plant, it does little or no harm. In fact, a heavy growth of Spanish moss is often seen on trees that are declining in health, but it is not responsible for the decline, though is can, however, strain branches and make them weaker.
Spanish Moss Information
Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) is not a true moss, but is a member of the bromeliad family along with tropical plants, such as pineapples. Trees with Spanish moss are a graceful and elegant sight. The tiny blue-green flowers are hard to see, but they give off a fragrance that is most noticeable at night. The plant drapes from the limbs of trees in masses that may be as much as 20 feet long. Several species of songbirds use Spanish moss as nesting materials, and some build their nests in the clumps. Bats may also live in clumps of Spanish moss, and reptiles and amphibians use the plant as a hiding place. Unfortunately, if you experience severe itching after handling Spanish moss, you’ve discovered chiggers, or redbugs, which also live in the plant.
Spanish Moss Removal
There is no chemical treatment to aid in Spanish moss removal, though herbicide sprays may be applied. The best way to remove Spanish moss is by hand. When the moss is growing on a tall tree, however, this can be a dangerous task and best left to a professional arborist. Even after thorough removal, Spanish moss grows back after a few years. You can reduce the growth rate of Spanish moss by providing the host tree with proper fertilization and watering.
But instead of attempting a frustrating and ultimately futile attempt to remove the moss, why not try to enjoy the way this mysterious and graceful plant enhances the garden.
What is Spanish Moss?
What is Spanish moss anyway? Spanish moss is an epiphytic plant that makes its own food from nutrients and moisture that it captures from the air and absorbs from surface cracks and crevices on the host plant. It clings to the supporting tree by wrapping itself around the branches. So will Spanish moss kill a tree? Spanish moss is sometimes blamed for problems it didn’t cause. Spanish moss takes no nourishment or moisture from trees, and only uses them for protection and support. Therefore, since it doesn’t obtain nourishment from the host plant, it does little or no harm. In fact, a heavy growth of Spanish moss is often seen on trees that are declining in health, but it is not responsible for the decline, though is can, however, strain branches and make them weaker.
Spanish Moss Information
Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) is not a true moss, but is a member of the bromeliad family along with tropical plants, such as pineapples. Trees with Spanish moss are a graceful and elegant sight. The tiny blue-green flowers are hard to see, but they give off a fragrance that is most noticeable at night. The plant drapes from the limbs of trees in masses that may be as much as 20 feet long. Several species of songbirds use Spanish moss as nesting materials, and some build their nests in the clumps. Bats may also live in clumps of Spanish moss, and reptiles and amphibians use the plant as a hiding place. Unfortunately, if you experience severe itching after handling Spanish moss, you’ve discovered chiggers, or redbugs, which also live in the plant.
Spanish Moss Removal
There is no chemical treatment to aid in Spanish moss removal, though herbicide sprays may be applied. The best way to remove Spanish moss is by hand. When the moss is growing on a tall tree, however, this can be a dangerous task and best left to a professional arborist. Even after thorough removal, Spanish moss grows back after a few years. You can reduce the growth rate of Spanish moss by providing the host tree with proper fertilization and watering.
But instead of attempting a frustrating and ultimately futile attempt to remove the moss, why not try to enjoy the way this mysterious and graceful plant enhances the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that apple trees can take a long time to fruit. This will depend, of course, on the variety of tree you purchase. Some will produce fruit earlier than others.
Soil for Growing an Apple Tree
One thing to remember about growing an apple tree is that the pH of the soil has to be just what the tree needs. You should have a soil test done if you are thinking about how to grow an apple orchard or your trees might not survive. Having a soil test done by the extension office is great because they provide the kit, do the test and then can give you a report of exactly what your soil needs in order to have the proper pH. Adding whatever is needed should be done to the depth of 12 to 18 inches so that the roots get the proper pH, or they can burn.
How Do You Plant Apple Trees?
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that higher ground is better for growing an apple tree. This is because low lying frost can kill the blossoms on the tree in the spring. Growing an apple tree on higher ground protects the blossoms from an early death, thus ensuring a good crop of apples. Apple tree growing info also advises not to plant the trees near the woods or streams. Both of these environments can ruin the tree. Growing an apple tree requires full sunshine. You will know when to grow apple trees when you can actually dig the hole necessary to plant the tree. Obviously, springtime is best, but make sure the ground is good and thawed.
When planting apple trees, pay attention to how the root ball goes into the ground. Growing an apple tree will require that you dig your hole double the diameter of the root ball and at least two feet deep. When you cover the roots with soil, you tamp it down as you go so you can ensure that the roots are completely touching the dirt. This makes certain your tree is going to get all the nutrients necessary from the soil because the air pockets were removed. When caring for an apple tree, you can add fertilizer, but don’t fertilize at planting time because you can burn the roots. Wait until the plant has established itself and then feed it according to the instructions on the fertilizer package. Most of the time, if your soil has the proper pH, you won’t need to fertilize your apple trees.
Soil for Growing an Apple Tree
One thing to remember about growing an apple tree is that the pH of the soil has to be just what the tree needs. You should have a soil test done if you are thinking about how to grow an apple orchard or your trees might not survive. Having a soil test done by the extension office is great because they provide the kit, do the test and then can give you a report of exactly what your soil needs in order to have the proper pH. Adding whatever is needed should be done to the depth of 12 to 18 inches so that the roots get the proper pH, or they can burn.
How Do You Plant Apple Trees?
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that higher ground is better for growing an apple tree. This is because low lying frost can kill the blossoms on the tree in the spring. Growing an apple tree on higher ground protects the blossoms from an early death, thus ensuring a good crop of apples. Apple tree growing info also advises not to plant the trees near the woods or streams. Both of these environments can ruin the tree. Growing an apple tree requires full sunshine. You will know when to grow apple trees when you can actually dig the hole necessary to plant the tree. Obviously, springtime is best, but make sure the ground is good and thawed.
When planting apple trees, pay attention to how the root ball goes into the ground. Growing an apple tree will require that you dig your hole double the diameter of the root ball and at least two feet deep. When you cover the roots with soil, you tamp it down as you go so you can ensure that the roots are completely touching the dirt. This makes certain your tree is going to get all the nutrients necessary from the soil because the air pockets were removed. When caring for an apple tree, you can add fertilizer, but don’t fertilize at planting time because you can burn the roots. Wait until the plant has established itself and then feed it according to the instructions on the fertilizer package. Most of the time, if your soil has the proper pH, you won’t need to fertilize your apple trees.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing bay leaf trees have been cultivated for centuries for their subtle flavor, aroma and medicinal uses. Sweet bay leaf spots may make one cringe regarding the wisdom of using them in culinary creations such as soups, stews, brines, shellfish boils and teas let alone for ornamental uses such as herbal wreaths, topiaries or potpourri. So let’s take a look at the causes and care of bay leaf tree problems, such as black spots on bay leaves.
Bay Leaf Tree Care
Growing bay leaf trees require a little patience as they are slow growing evergreens, although they may live for 40 years or longer and attain a height of 10 feet (or up to 23 feet in the wild). Care of bay leaf trees is minimal when bearing in mind that Laurus nobilis is hardy in USDA zone 8, thrives in rich, well-drained soil (pH 6.2), dislikes overwatering and should be brought indoors when the temperature dips in the fall months.
Sweet Bay Leaf Spots by Insects
A plague in the care of bay tree leaf problems are aphids, mites and hard shelled scales. Their honeydew causes sooty mold, giving the appearance of black spots when growing bay leaf trees. Care of bay tree leaf problems of this ilk require a strong blast of water to dislodge some of the marauders, followed by a treatment of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Both insecticidal soap and neem oil are safe to use and can be easily rinsed off the leaves before using in food. Several weekly applications may be needed to resolve black spots on bay leaves caused by insects.
Other Causes of Black Spots on Bay Leaves
If no evidence of insects is to be found, another cause for black spots on bay leaves may be leaf spot disease. Care of bay tree leaf problems caused by this involve primarily removing all the affected leaves and allowing the soil to dry between watering. Make sure the plant is not sitting in water and water at the base of the plant to allow leaves to remain dry. A bacterial or fungal infection such as phytophthora ramorum may additionally be creating sweet bay leaf spots. Care of bay leaf tree problems of this type again involves removing any infected leaves from the plant and surrounding area and burn or seal in a plastic bag for dispatch. Take care to have leaves dry by mid morning, thereby discouraging a hospitable environment for spores to take hold. A sulfur spray may discourage any further infection and black spots on bay leaves. Although chemical control is not usually warranted, if you do decide to spray, spring is the optimal time at bud break during the growing season in 12 to 14 day intervals. Lastly, a possible cause of black spots on bay leaves may simply be sunburn. Moving the plant from indoors back outside too suddenly may burn the leaves as may a reflection from glass indoors. Always look into the simplest solution first such as too much sun or water or the need for repotting.
Bay Leaf Tree Care
Growing bay leaf trees require a little patience as they are slow growing evergreens, although they may live for 40 years or longer and attain a height of 10 feet (or up to 23 feet in the wild). Care of bay leaf trees is minimal when bearing in mind that Laurus nobilis is hardy in USDA zone 8, thrives in rich, well-drained soil (pH 6.2), dislikes overwatering and should be brought indoors when the temperature dips in the fall months.
Sweet Bay Leaf Spots by Insects
A plague in the care of bay tree leaf problems are aphids, mites and hard shelled scales. Their honeydew causes sooty mold, giving the appearance of black spots when growing bay leaf trees. Care of bay tree leaf problems of this ilk require a strong blast of water to dislodge some of the marauders, followed by a treatment of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Both insecticidal soap and neem oil are safe to use and can be easily rinsed off the leaves before using in food. Several weekly applications may be needed to resolve black spots on bay leaves caused by insects.
Other Causes of Black Spots on Bay Leaves
If no evidence of insects is to be found, another cause for black spots on bay leaves may be leaf spot disease. Care of bay tree leaf problems caused by this involve primarily removing all the affected leaves and allowing the soil to dry between watering. Make sure the plant is not sitting in water and water at the base of the plant to allow leaves to remain dry. A bacterial or fungal infection such as phytophthora ramorum may additionally be creating sweet bay leaf spots. Care of bay leaf tree problems of this type again involves removing any infected leaves from the plant and surrounding area and burn or seal in a plastic bag for dispatch. Take care to have leaves dry by mid morning, thereby discouraging a hospitable environment for spores to take hold. A sulfur spray may discourage any further infection and black spots on bay leaves. Although chemical control is not usually warranted, if you do decide to spray, spring is the optimal time at bud break during the growing season in 12 to 14 day intervals. Lastly, a possible cause of black spots on bay leaves may simply be sunburn. Moving the plant from indoors back outside too suddenly may burn the leaves as may a reflection from glass indoors. Always look into the simplest solution first such as too much sun or water or the need for repotting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay trees are grown all over the world for the leaves, which are used in cooking, massage therapy and for medicinal properties. Though fairly resistant to pests and disease, problems may nonetheless strike, causing the leaves to turn yellow on the bay laurel. You may be wondering why my bay laurel is turning yellow if you see yellowing of the bay laurel leaves. Bay trees are evergreen shrubs that grow beautifully in either the garden or in containers. They make wonderful topiaries shaped as balls, pyramids, or “lollipops” and may even have braided or spirally trained stems. Laurus nobilis prefers to be grown in well-drained soil in a partially shaded or protected sun exposure. Grow bay outside in warm climates or indoors or greenhouse in cooler climates.
Why is My Bay Laurel Turning Yellow?
Leaves turn yellow on bay laurel for a number of reasons, resulting from an environmental condition, pest infestation or disease. Root rot – A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of waterlogged roots or wet weather creating root rot, a fungal disease that does exactly what is says. This usually applies to container grown plants and symptoms also include leaf wilt and drooping as well as yellow leaves. Avoid overwatering and standing water by providing adequate drainage. You may need to repot the bay in well draining, disease-free soil after removing any infected parts. An application of fungicide may be helpful as well.
Bay sucker pest – If your bay laurel has yellow leaves, another cause may be the bay sucker (aka: jumping plant lice), a common insect marauder of bay plants. These sap suckers are most active in late spring. Early signs of these pests are yellowing of the leaves followed by thickening of the leaf tissue, and finally brown leaves that drop. Treatment for these pests is the removal of infested foliage on the yellow bay laurel plant. The damaged portions should be burned and then the bay should be treated with insecticidal soap focused on the underside of the leaves. You may need to treat more than one time. Nutrient deficiency – Lastly, if your bay laurel has yellow leaves, the root of the problem may be either an iron or a nitrogen deficiency.
A deficiency in iron is also called iron chlorosis and is a major issue in the garden that is caused by several problems, most often overly alkaline soil or damaged roots. Too little iron decreases chlorophyll, resulting in yellow leaves beginning at the edges and moving inward while the veins remain green. Treatment is dependent upon the cause. If the soil is too wet or alkaline, mix organic matter, sulfur or peat moss into the soil to correct the pH and improve drainage. A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of a nitrogen deficiency, which is caused by an imbalance in the pH of the soil. A uniform yellowing of the bay laurel leaves occurring in older, lower leaves first and moving upward is how a nitrogen deficiency can be diagnosed. Add a nitrate rich fertilizer to the soil, making sure to follow the directions lest you scorch the plant. A safer but slower option is to amend with decomposing organic matter to treat the nitrogen deficiency.
Why is My Bay Laurel Turning Yellow?
Leaves turn yellow on bay laurel for a number of reasons, resulting from an environmental condition, pest infestation or disease. Root rot – A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of waterlogged roots or wet weather creating root rot, a fungal disease that does exactly what is says. This usually applies to container grown plants and symptoms also include leaf wilt and drooping as well as yellow leaves. Avoid overwatering and standing water by providing adequate drainage. You may need to repot the bay in well draining, disease-free soil after removing any infected parts. An application of fungicide may be helpful as well.
Bay sucker pest – If your bay laurel has yellow leaves, another cause may be the bay sucker (aka: jumping plant lice), a common insect marauder of bay plants. These sap suckers are most active in late spring. Early signs of these pests are yellowing of the leaves followed by thickening of the leaf tissue, and finally brown leaves that drop. Treatment for these pests is the removal of infested foliage on the yellow bay laurel plant. The damaged portions should be burned and then the bay should be treated with insecticidal soap focused on the underside of the leaves. You may need to treat more than one time. Nutrient deficiency – Lastly, if your bay laurel has yellow leaves, the root of the problem may be either an iron or a nitrogen deficiency.
A deficiency in iron is also called iron chlorosis and is a major issue in the garden that is caused by several problems, most often overly alkaline soil or damaged roots. Too little iron decreases chlorophyll, resulting in yellow leaves beginning at the edges and moving inward while the veins remain green. Treatment is dependent upon the cause. If the soil is too wet or alkaline, mix organic matter, sulfur or peat moss into the soil to correct the pH and improve drainage. A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of a nitrogen deficiency, which is caused by an imbalance in the pH of the soil. A uniform yellowing of the bay laurel leaves occurring in older, lower leaves first and moving upward is how a nitrogen deficiency can be diagnosed. Add a nitrate rich fertilizer to the soil, making sure to follow the directions lest you scorch the plant. A safer but slower option is to amend with decomposing organic matter to treat the nitrogen deficiency.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
It’s Christmas time again and maybe you are looking for another decorating idea, or you live in a small apartment and just don’t have the room for a full size Christmas tree. Of late, rosemary Christmas trees plants have become popular nursery or grocery store items. Not only is rosemary used as a Christmas tree a festive ornamental for the season, but it is predominantly disease and pest resistant, aromatic, a culinary treasure, and responds beautifully to pruning to maintain the shape. Additionally, a rosemary tree for Christmas can be planted in the garden to wait the following holiday season while maintaining its role as an indispensable herb.
How to Create a Rosemary Tree for Christmas
With the burgeoning popularity of rosemary as a Christmas tree, you can easily purchase one for use during the holidays. However, if you have a bit of a green thumb, it’s also fun to know how to create a rosemary tree for Christmas. If you aren’t a big fan of rosemary, other herbs such as Greek Myrtle and Bay Laurel are also suitable for small living Christmas trees. Initially, the purchased rosemary tree has a lovely pine shape but over time as the herb matures, it outgrows those lines. It is very easy to prune the rosemary to help it maintain its tree shape. Take a picture of the rosemary Christmas tree, print it out and draw an outline of the tree shape you wish the herb to have with a permanent marker. You’ll notice that outside of the marker lines there are branches. These are the branches that need to be pruned back to regain the tree shape. Use your photo as a template to show you where to prune, clipping the branches all the way to their base near the trunk of the rosemary. Don’t leave nubs, as this will stress the herb out. Continue to prune every three to four weeks to maintain the desired shape.
Care for a Rosemary Christmas Tree
Keeping a rosemary tree for Christmas is extremely simple. Continue with the pruning schedule and mist the herb after pruning. Keep the plant in a sunny window or outside in full sun. Keeping rosemary for Christmas healthy requires regular watering. Rosemary plants are drought tolerant, but this doesn’t mean they need no water. It is difficult to tell when to water rosemary as it doesn’t wilt or drop leaves as other plants do when in need of water. The general rule is to water every week or two.
The rosemary Christmas tree will have to be repotted at some point or planted outdoors until the following Christmas. Keep shaping the plant from spring through fall and then bring indoors again. Repot in a larger clay pot to aid in water retention with a lightweight potting mix that provides good drainage.
How to Create a Rosemary Tree for Christmas
With the burgeoning popularity of rosemary as a Christmas tree, you can easily purchase one for use during the holidays. However, if you have a bit of a green thumb, it’s also fun to know how to create a rosemary tree for Christmas. If you aren’t a big fan of rosemary, other herbs such as Greek Myrtle and Bay Laurel are also suitable for small living Christmas trees. Initially, the purchased rosemary tree has a lovely pine shape but over time as the herb matures, it outgrows those lines. It is very easy to prune the rosemary to help it maintain its tree shape. Take a picture of the rosemary Christmas tree, print it out and draw an outline of the tree shape you wish the herb to have with a permanent marker. You’ll notice that outside of the marker lines there are branches. These are the branches that need to be pruned back to regain the tree shape. Use your photo as a template to show you where to prune, clipping the branches all the way to their base near the trunk of the rosemary. Don’t leave nubs, as this will stress the herb out. Continue to prune every three to four weeks to maintain the desired shape.
Care for a Rosemary Christmas Tree
Keeping a rosemary tree for Christmas is extremely simple. Continue with the pruning schedule and mist the herb after pruning. Keep the plant in a sunny window or outside in full sun. Keeping rosemary for Christmas healthy requires regular watering. Rosemary plants are drought tolerant, but this doesn’t mean they need no water. It is difficult to tell when to water rosemary as it doesn’t wilt or drop leaves as other plants do when in need of water. The general rule is to water every week or two.
The rosemary Christmas tree will have to be repotted at some point or planted outdoors until the following Christmas. Keep shaping the plant from spring through fall and then bring indoors again. Repot in a larger clay pot to aid in water retention with a lightweight potting mix that provides good drainage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Indoor palm trees add an elegant and exotic feel to the home interior. Growing spindle palm indoors is a treat for northern gardeners who usually can’t grow tropical foliage in the garden. Palm tree houseplants are a great way to grow these warm weather beauties in a more diminutive form than the classic boulevard palms, which can exceed 25 feet in height. The more manageable potted palm still has all the class and glamour of its in-ground siblings with space saving sensibility.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
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