文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Confederate roses grow on bush-like trees that are quite unlike most standard rose bushes. These plants grow best in the southern states of the U.S., which is where they got their name. The blooms are born in a bright white, and gradually fade into pink and then to blue. They resemble hibiscus flowers more than standard roses. These rose bushes are very successful at growing from cuttings. Take a cutting from an established Confederate rose bush and grow your own.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads can be found clinging to trees and cracks in cliffs in some regions. But even if you aren’t lucky enough to see them in their wild state, bromeliads are commonly grown as houseplants and easy to find at nurseries and garden centers. They usually come in bloom and the spectacular flower lasts a few weeks or up to a month. Do bromeliads only flower once? Yes. Getting bromeliads to bloom again isn’t possible, but the plant produces a next generation of bloomers called offsets that will.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
The prized trees in your yard are little more than playgrounds, shelters and food sources for common garden pests, such as squirrels, rats and raccoons. Rats like to hide in the dense clusters of dead palm fronds that hang below the healthy canopy. Squirrels gather leaves and sticks and build their own nests in trees. Raccoons are sneaky bandits who are most problematic for stealing fruit from fruit trees. The rough texture of bark coupled with their tiny claws make it easy for these garden pests to climb trees, but they can't gain footing on slick sheet metal collars.
Step 1
Measure the circumference of the tree trunk. Cut a piece of sheet metal about 2 to 3 feet wide and 6 to 8 inches longer than the trunk circumference. Use thin, easily flexible sheet metal, such as 26 gauge, that bends easily around trees. Draw the lines with a permanent marker and use a pair of tin snips to cut through the sheet metal. Wear thick leather gloves and long sleeves so you don't cut yourself on the sheet metal.
Step 2
File down the sharp sheet metal edges and round the corners, using a flat file. Cut sheet metal is razor sharp, so you might also apply duct tape to dull the edges and corners.
Step 3
Mark one edge of the sheet metal with two marks for pilot holes; place the marks about 2 inches in from the edge with one positioned 2 inches from the top and the other mark 2 inches from the bottom. Mark along one of the 2- to 3-foot edges and not along the edges cut to the length of the circumference.
Step 4
Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through each of the marks, using a power drill and a high-speed titanium drill bit. Mark through the holes to indicate the location for pilot holes on the opposite end of the sheet metal. Drill two more pilot holes at each mark.
Step 5
Reposition the sheet metal around the tree with the pilot holes at each end lined up. The top of the sheet metal should rest at least 5 feet off the ground; if you have a tree without low branches, position the sheet metal with the top as far as 8 feet off the ground. Enlist a helper to hold the sheet metal in place while you push a piece of aluminum tie wire through the holes, wrap the wire to the front of the sheet metal and twist with pliers to tighten. Secure the wires tightly to ensure the metal collar stays in place; this method spares you drilling damaging holes into the tree trunk.
Step 6
Remove the wires and the sheet metal collar as the tree trunk grows. The extra 6 to 8 inches added to the sheet metal length allows you to adjust the size of the collar rather than using a new piece of sheet metal. Reposition the collar and insert a marker through the pilot holes to mark the location for new pilot holes. Reattach the sheet metal with new tie wires.
Step 1
Measure the circumference of the tree trunk. Cut a piece of sheet metal about 2 to 3 feet wide and 6 to 8 inches longer than the trunk circumference. Use thin, easily flexible sheet metal, such as 26 gauge, that bends easily around trees. Draw the lines with a permanent marker and use a pair of tin snips to cut through the sheet metal. Wear thick leather gloves and long sleeves so you don't cut yourself on the sheet metal.
Step 2
File down the sharp sheet metal edges and round the corners, using a flat file. Cut sheet metal is razor sharp, so you might also apply duct tape to dull the edges and corners.
Step 3
Mark one edge of the sheet metal with two marks for pilot holes; place the marks about 2 inches in from the edge with one positioned 2 inches from the top and the other mark 2 inches from the bottom. Mark along one of the 2- to 3-foot edges and not along the edges cut to the length of the circumference.
Step 4
Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through each of the marks, using a power drill and a high-speed titanium drill bit. Mark through the holes to indicate the location for pilot holes on the opposite end of the sheet metal. Drill two more pilot holes at each mark.
Step 5
Reposition the sheet metal around the tree with the pilot holes at each end lined up. The top of the sheet metal should rest at least 5 feet off the ground; if you have a tree without low branches, position the sheet metal with the top as far as 8 feet off the ground. Enlist a helper to hold the sheet metal in place while you push a piece of aluminum tie wire through the holes, wrap the wire to the front of the sheet metal and twist with pliers to tighten. Secure the wires tightly to ensure the metal collar stays in place; this method spares you drilling damaging holes into the tree trunk.
Step 6
Remove the wires and the sheet metal collar as the tree trunk grows. The extra 6 to 8 inches added to the sheet metal length allows you to adjust the size of the collar rather than using a new piece of sheet metal. Reposition the collar and insert a marker through the pilot holes to mark the location for new pilot holes. Reattach the sheet metal with new tie wires.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
When you cut a tree down or pull a stump out of the ground, roots remaining the soil are often still alive and may produce new shoots. Certain trees including willows (Salix spp.), some maples (Acer spp.) and Populus species such as cottonwood tend to produce new sprouts very vigorously. Treating a stump with herbicide immediately following cutting the tree down can kill the tree's root system. Where the bulk of the stump and tree crown were pulled out or ground up and there is no cut surface remaining, you will have to address the remaining root system by treating new sprouts as they emerge.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Canine, or dog, urine can cause evergreen trees' and shrubs' low foliage to turn yellow and then dark brown or black. In most situations, dog urine doesn't kill evergreens. If, however, the plants are subjected to dog urine frequently, then eventually the urine can affect their health. Certain measures, though, can prevent or reduce dog urine's damage to evergreens.
Dog Urine's Effects
Dog urine contains urea, which is produced as a waste product when protein is metabolized in the body, and it is excreted along with other salts in the dog's urine. Urea is a nitrogen compound that is used in fertilizers because in soil it is converted to nitrates, which are the primary form of nitrogen used by plants. The urea in dog urine isn't beneficial to plants because its concentration is too high, which creates an environment in which water is drawn out of plant cells.
Prevention
Other than installing a fence, not much can be done to prevent a neighbor's dog from urinating on your plants. If your dog is the source of the urine, then modifying its diet may prevent the urine from damaging your evergreens and other plants. Feed the dog low- to moderate-protein foods instead of those labeled as high in protein; less protein reduces the amount of urea in the urine. Also, high-quality proteins are easier to digest, which means less urea is excreted in the urine. Typically, dog foods labeled as premium and super premium and that are available at pet stores and veterinarian offices have higher quality proteins than most brands available at grocery stores, but consult your dog's veterinarian before making changes in the dog's diet.
If you can't change your dog's food, dilute the dog's urine by adding water to the canine's food, using canned dog food or increasing its daily water intake. Your dog may need to go outside to urinate more often than previously, but its urine will be less likely to burn your evergreens and other plants.
Repair
Urine-damaged evergreens are not a lost cause, although their discolored foliage may not regain its green color. If you see the dog urinating on the plants, immediately rinse the plants with water to dilute the urine, which can prevent damage. If damage has occurred, water the ground around the plants, which leaches the salts from the soil. You may have to repeat watering as the soil dries to leach heavy salt buildups caused by frequent or long-term urination on the plants.
Salt-Tolerant Evergreens
Plants that have a high salt tolerance may be able to withstand dog urine's salts better than other plants. Salt-tolerant evergreen trees include Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), which is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, blue spruce (Picea pungens), which is hardy to USDA zones 2 through 7, and mugo pine (Pinus mugo), hardy in zones 2 through 7. Evergreen shrubs that have a high salt tolerance include serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), which is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 7, Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), hardy in zones 4 through 8, cottoneaster (cotoneaster spp.), hardy in zones 4 through 8, and Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), which is hardy in zones 5 through 8.
Dog Urine's Effects
Dog urine contains urea, which is produced as a waste product when protein is metabolized in the body, and it is excreted along with other salts in the dog's urine. Urea is a nitrogen compound that is used in fertilizers because in soil it is converted to nitrates, which are the primary form of nitrogen used by plants. The urea in dog urine isn't beneficial to plants because its concentration is too high, which creates an environment in which water is drawn out of plant cells.
Prevention
Other than installing a fence, not much can be done to prevent a neighbor's dog from urinating on your plants. If your dog is the source of the urine, then modifying its diet may prevent the urine from damaging your evergreens and other plants. Feed the dog low- to moderate-protein foods instead of those labeled as high in protein; less protein reduces the amount of urea in the urine. Also, high-quality proteins are easier to digest, which means less urea is excreted in the urine. Typically, dog foods labeled as premium and super premium and that are available at pet stores and veterinarian offices have higher quality proteins than most brands available at grocery stores, but consult your dog's veterinarian before making changes in the dog's diet.
If you can't change your dog's food, dilute the dog's urine by adding water to the canine's food, using canned dog food or increasing its daily water intake. Your dog may need to go outside to urinate more often than previously, but its urine will be less likely to burn your evergreens and other plants.
Repair
Urine-damaged evergreens are not a lost cause, although their discolored foliage may not regain its green color. If you see the dog urinating on the plants, immediately rinse the plants with water to dilute the urine, which can prevent damage. If damage has occurred, water the ground around the plants, which leaches the salts from the soil. You may have to repeat watering as the soil dries to leach heavy salt buildups caused by frequent or long-term urination on the plants.
Salt-Tolerant Evergreens
Plants that have a high salt tolerance may be able to withstand dog urine's salts better than other plants. Salt-tolerant evergreen trees include Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), which is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, blue spruce (Picea pungens), which is hardy to USDA zones 2 through 7, and mugo pine (Pinus mugo), hardy in zones 2 through 7. Evergreen shrubs that have a high salt tolerance include serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), which is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 7, Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), hardy in zones 4 through 8, cottoneaster (cotoneaster spp.), hardy in zones 4 through 8, and Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), which is hardy in zones 5 through 8.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
During spring, yellow jackets build nests in a variety of holes and gaps in the ground, rocks, buildings and even trees. Throughout summer and fall, these stinging insects, also known as "meat bees" scavenge for food at barbecues, in trash cans and other places to feed themselves and other members of their hive. Like paper wasps, yellow jackets are a social wasp, but unlike paper wasps, yellow jackets are more apt to sting. Unlike honey bees, yellow jackets can sting more than once. A few simple practices will eradicate yellow jacket attractants, preventing the insects from swarming on or around your patio.
Step 1
Cover food trays with plastic wrap when eating outdoors on your patio. Keep the grill cover closed while the food is cooking. Never leave food sitting on an uncovered grill. Take all food trays, plates and cups indoors after eating.
Step 2
Pour any unfinished drinks down an indoor drain. Do not leave any cups or glasses containing liquid unattended on the patio. Avoid pouring drinks on the ground next to the patio as the resulting puddles and residue will attract the yellow jackets. Wash the residue from spilled drinks off the patio's surface with water.
Step 3
Discard any food scraps in trash bags, keeping the patio free from food debris. Pick ripe fruit and vegetables growing in your yard as soon as possible, cleaning up any produce sitting on the ground as well as on the trees and plants.
Step 4
Tie trash bags tightly closed. Store the bag in a trash can. Keep the trash can's lid closed completely to avoid attracting the yellow jackets to the area. Position the trash can as far away from the patio as possible. Wash any spills or drips from the can's surface as they occur.
Step 5
Check water spigots located nearby the patio for leaks. Fix any leaking spigots to eradicate resulting puddles of fresh water. Turn off the spigots completely after use.
Step 6
Put away any garden hoses or sprinklers immediately after use. Never leave leaking sprinklers or hoses nearby the patio to eliminate sources of fresh water for the yellow jackets.
Step 7
Place yellow jacket traps, sold at home and garden stores, around your yard to attract and capture these pests. Position the traps 40 to 50 feet away from the patio and any other high traffic areas to allure yellow jackets away from these functional areas.
Step 1
Cover food trays with plastic wrap when eating outdoors on your patio. Keep the grill cover closed while the food is cooking. Never leave food sitting on an uncovered grill. Take all food trays, plates and cups indoors after eating.
Step 2
Pour any unfinished drinks down an indoor drain. Do not leave any cups or glasses containing liquid unattended on the patio. Avoid pouring drinks on the ground next to the patio as the resulting puddles and residue will attract the yellow jackets. Wash the residue from spilled drinks off the patio's surface with water.
Step 3
Discard any food scraps in trash bags, keeping the patio free from food debris. Pick ripe fruit and vegetables growing in your yard as soon as possible, cleaning up any produce sitting on the ground as well as on the trees and plants.
Step 4
Tie trash bags tightly closed. Store the bag in a trash can. Keep the trash can's lid closed completely to avoid attracting the yellow jackets to the area. Position the trash can as far away from the patio as possible. Wash any spills or drips from the can's surface as they occur.
Step 5
Check water spigots located nearby the patio for leaks. Fix any leaking spigots to eradicate resulting puddles of fresh water. Turn off the spigots completely after use.
Step 6
Put away any garden hoses or sprinklers immediately after use. Never leave leaking sprinklers or hoses nearby the patio to eliminate sources of fresh water for the yellow jackets.
Step 7
Place yellow jacket traps, sold at home and garden stores, around your yard to attract and capture these pests. Position the traps 40 to 50 feet away from the patio and any other high traffic areas to allure yellow jackets away from these functional areas.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants grow in either a tree form or a shrub form. Tree yuccas are tall growing trees that have thick fibrous leaves on the tips of their branches. Common tree yuccas are Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) and the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia). Shrub yuccas, like the hairy yucca (Yucca filamentosa), are low-growing spiky plants that form rosettes of thick fibrous leaves that sprout from a central point. After both yucca plants bloom, a brown flower stalk is left behind. The flowering stalk should be removed from the plant if you do not wish for the plant to produce seed. Often, shrub yucca plants turn brown and then die after they flower, but new plants emerge around the dead rosette.
Step 1
Put on leather gardening gloves and prune off the dead and dying leaves in the spring with sharp pruning shears. Avoid pulling the leaves off the plant as this causes damage.
Step 2
Remove the flower stalk after it has dried, which is usually in late summer. Cut the flower stalk 3 to 4 inches above the center of the rosette with sharp pruning shears. Remove the severed flowering stalk and discard. Pull the stalk out from the center of the plant only if the center is rotted and the stalk can be easily removed.
Step 3
Pull the dead yucca plant out of the ground gently when you notice new plants forming around it. Use caution not to disturb the newly emerged plants.
Flowering Stalk Removal of Tree Yuccas
Step 4
Prune off only dead or dying leaves with pruning shears. Removing green leaves damages the tree. Wear leather gloves to protect your hands.
Step 5
Cut the flower stalk panicles off the tree after a few weeks of blooming if you live in a wet area. Cut the panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. Dead flower stalks will fall off the tree leaving behind a hole where water can get into the heart of the plant and rot it out from the inside.
Step 6
Cut the flowing stalks anytime if you live in a dry climate. Cut the stalk panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. It is not harmful to leave the flowering stalks on the tree if you live in an arid area that does not receive much rain.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
While there are numerous diseases affecting plants, the plant disease fire blight, which is caused by bacteria (Erwinia amylovora), affects trees and shrubs in orchards, nurseries, and landscape plantings; therefore, no one is safe from its path. Plant Disease: Fire Blight The plant disease fire blight is oftentimes influenced by seasonal weather and generally attacks the plant’s blossoms, gradually moving to the twigs, and then the branches. Fire blight gets its name from the burnt appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Shot hole disease, which may also be known as Coryneum blight, is a serious issue in many fruit trees. It is most commonly seen in peach, nectarine, apricot, and plum trees but may also affect almond and prune trees. Some flowering ornamental trees can be affected as well. Since little can be done to control shot hole fungus once the trees have been infected, prevention is essential in treating shot hole disease.
Signs of Shot Hole Fungus
Shot hole disease thrives in wet conditions, especially during extended wet periods. The disease is most noticeable in spring, as new growth is most susceptible. Shot hole fungus commonly overwinters inside the infected buds, as well as twig lesions, where the spores may thrive for several months. Therefore, it is important to thoroughly inspect trees after leaf fall for any symptoms. Most signs of shot hole disease occur in spring, causing spots (or lesions) on new buds and young leaves and shoots. Buds will have a varnished appearance and spots will first look reddish or purplish-brown in color and about ¼ inch in diameter. Eventually, these spots become larger, turning brown and falling out—giving the appearance of gunshot holes in the foliage. As it progresses, the leaves will drop. The stress also affects the tree’s ability to produce, and any fruit that may develop will usually be affected as well with spotting on the upper surface that may even become rough.
Shot Hole Disease Treatment
Infections can occur anytime between fall and spring, but is usually most severe following wet winters. Prolonged spring rains can also encourage this disease, as spores are spread from the splashing rain. Overhead watering may also contribute to the disease. Good sanitation is key to treating shot hole disease naturally. This is the surest way to keep the disease from coming back. All infected buds, blossoms, fruit, and twigs need to be promptly removed and destroyed. Contaminated leaves around and beneath the tree should be removed as well.
Applying dormant spray — Bordeaux or fixed copper fungicide — in late fall is advisable, following the label instructions carefully. These sprays should not be applied in spring once new growth appears but additional applications may be necessary during wet weather.
Signs of Shot Hole Fungus
Shot hole disease thrives in wet conditions, especially during extended wet periods. The disease is most noticeable in spring, as new growth is most susceptible. Shot hole fungus commonly overwinters inside the infected buds, as well as twig lesions, where the spores may thrive for several months. Therefore, it is important to thoroughly inspect trees after leaf fall for any symptoms. Most signs of shot hole disease occur in spring, causing spots (or lesions) on new buds and young leaves and shoots. Buds will have a varnished appearance and spots will first look reddish or purplish-brown in color and about ¼ inch in diameter. Eventually, these spots become larger, turning brown and falling out—giving the appearance of gunshot holes in the foliage. As it progresses, the leaves will drop. The stress also affects the tree’s ability to produce, and any fruit that may develop will usually be affected as well with spotting on the upper surface that may even become rough.
Shot Hole Disease Treatment
Infections can occur anytime between fall and spring, but is usually most severe following wet winters. Prolonged spring rains can also encourage this disease, as spores are spread from the splashing rain. Overhead watering may also contribute to the disease. Good sanitation is key to treating shot hole disease naturally. This is the surest way to keep the disease from coming back. All infected buds, blossoms, fruit, and twigs need to be promptly removed and destroyed. Contaminated leaves around and beneath the tree should be removed as well.
Applying dormant spray — Bordeaux or fixed copper fungicide — in late fall is advisable, following the label instructions carefully. These sprays should not be applied in spring once new growth appears but additional applications may be necessary during wet weather.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Crown rot commonly affects many types of plants in the garden, including vegetables. However, it can also be a problem with trees and shrubs as well and is oftentimes detrimental to the plants. So what exactly is this and how do you stop crown rot before it is too late?
What is Crown Rot Disease?
Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.
Signs of Crown Rot Disease
While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.
How Do You Stop Crown Rot?
Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.
What is Crown Rot Disease?
Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.
Signs of Crown Rot Disease
While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.
How Do You Stop Crown Rot?
Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It’s late spring and the leaves of your trees are almost full sized. You take a walk under the shady canopy and look up to admire the foliage and what do you see? White spots on the plant leaves. If that tree you’re standing under is a nut tree, the chances are good that you’re looking at a case of downy leaf spot, also known as white leaf spot. Control and elimination of this downy spot disease will probably be the next thing on your mind. You’ll want to know what to do for white spots on the leaves. Will it harm your tree? First, let’s take a closer look.
What is Downy Spot?
Early on, downy leaf spot presents itself as small (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch), whitem furry areas on the underside of the leaves and pale green spots on the upper side. If some of those white spots on the plant leaves have fused together to become blotches, they should look like white powder. If the disease attacking your nut tree fits this description, you’ve got downy spot. The proper name for your leaf destroyer is Microstroma juglandis. It is a fungus that commonly attacks host trees such as butternut, hickory, pecan and walnut trees. It’s found anywhere in the world where these nuts are grown. Those white spots on the plant leaves are fungal structures and spores that thrive in the warming temperatures and rains of spring. As the downy spot progresses, the upper sides of the leaves become chorotic, that is, show yellowish spots that will eventually turn brown. Affected leaves will fall from the tree by early August. As time passes, the ends of the branches may develop witch’s broom formations. The newly growing leaves will be stunted and malformed and will appear more yellowish than green. Many of the broom leaves will shrivel and die over the course of the summer, but before they do, these witch’s brooms can grow to be several feet in diameter.
White Leaf Spot Control – How to Treat White Spots on Plant Leaves
Unfortunately, the answer to what to do for white spots on the leaves of your nut tree is nothing. Commercial growers have the advantage of proper equipment to reach the full height of these trees and to spray the entire tree with commercial fungicides not available to the home owner with only one or two trees. The good news is that the life of your tree won’t be threatened by white leaf spot. Control of future infections is largely a matter of good sanitation practices. All leaves, infected or healthy, and all shucks and nuts should be cleared and destroyed each winter or in the early spring before buds begin to swell. Infected leaves and nuts that are left to overwinter on the ground are major sources for new infections in the spring. Removing damaged twigs and limbs, including the unattractive witch’s broom, should also be practiced during the dormant season, if possible. While downy leaf spot won’t kill your tree, any infection will weaken it and leave it vulnerable to more serious infections. Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and they’ll stay strong enough to easily survive this fungal disease.
What is Downy Spot?
Early on, downy leaf spot presents itself as small (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch), whitem furry areas on the underside of the leaves and pale green spots on the upper side. If some of those white spots on the plant leaves have fused together to become blotches, they should look like white powder. If the disease attacking your nut tree fits this description, you’ve got downy spot. The proper name for your leaf destroyer is Microstroma juglandis. It is a fungus that commonly attacks host trees such as butternut, hickory, pecan and walnut trees. It’s found anywhere in the world where these nuts are grown. Those white spots on the plant leaves are fungal structures and spores that thrive in the warming temperatures and rains of spring. As the downy spot progresses, the upper sides of the leaves become chorotic, that is, show yellowish spots that will eventually turn brown. Affected leaves will fall from the tree by early August. As time passes, the ends of the branches may develop witch’s broom formations. The newly growing leaves will be stunted and malformed and will appear more yellowish than green. Many of the broom leaves will shrivel and die over the course of the summer, but before they do, these witch’s brooms can grow to be several feet in diameter.
White Leaf Spot Control – How to Treat White Spots on Plant Leaves
Unfortunately, the answer to what to do for white spots on the leaves of your nut tree is nothing. Commercial growers have the advantage of proper equipment to reach the full height of these trees and to spray the entire tree with commercial fungicides not available to the home owner with only one or two trees. The good news is that the life of your tree won’t be threatened by white leaf spot. Control of future infections is largely a matter of good sanitation practices. All leaves, infected or healthy, and all shucks and nuts should be cleared and destroyed each winter or in the early spring before buds begin to swell. Infected leaves and nuts that are left to overwinter on the ground are major sources for new infections in the spring. Removing damaged twigs and limbs, including the unattractive witch’s broom, should also be practiced during the dormant season, if possible. While downy leaf spot won’t kill your tree, any infection will weaken it and leave it vulnerable to more serious infections. Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and they’ll stay strong enough to easily survive this fungal disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
You may know it as leaf, shoot or twig blight. It affects a variety of shrubs, trees and other plants. Combating anthracnose can be a frustrating process, leaving gardeners asking, “How do you treat anthracnose effectively?” Knowing more about what plants get anthracnose and how to prevent it can go a long way in successful anthracnose control. 
Anthracnose Disease Info
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that tends to attack plants in the spring when the weather is cool and wet, primarily on leaves and twigs. The fungi overwinter in dead twigs and fallen leaves. Cool, rainy weather creates perfect conditions for the spores to spread. Dry and hot weather stop the progression of the disease that may begin again once the weather conditions become optimal. The problem can be cyclic but is rarely fatal. Anthracnose fungus infects many deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs, as well as fruits, vegetables and grass. Anthracnose is noticeable along the leaves and the veins as small lesions. These dark, sunken lesions may also be found on stems, flowers and fruits. In order to distinguish between anthracnose and other leaf spot diseases, you should carefully examine the undersides of leaves for a number of small tan to brown dots, about the size of a pin head. If you are unsure about diagnosing anthracnose, consult your local Cooperative Extension office for assistance and additional anthracnose disease info.
What Plants Get Anthracnose?
A wide variety of plants can be affected by anthracnose fungus, including those grown outside of a greenhouse, such as woody ornamentals and tropical foliage plants. Potted plants and greenhouse crops such as cyclamen, ficus, lupine, palms, succulents and yuccas are sometimes affected. Trees and shrubs that are prone to anthracnose include maple, camellia, walnut, ash, azalea, oak and sycamore.
How Do You Treat Anthracnose?
Anthracnose control begins with practicing good sanitation. Picking up and disposing of all diseased plant parts, including twigs and leaves, from the ground or from around the plant is important. This keeps the fungus from overwintering near the plant. Proper pruning techniques to rid trees and plants of old and dead wood also helps with prevention of anthracnose fungus. Keeping plants healthy by providing proper light, water and fertilizer will strengthen the plant’s ability to ward off a fungus attack. Stressed trees and plants have a difficult time recovering from anthracnose fungus. Chemical treatment is rarely used except when the disease involves newly transplanted plants or continual defoliation.
Anthracnose Disease Info
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that tends to attack plants in the spring when the weather is cool and wet, primarily on leaves and twigs. The fungi overwinter in dead twigs and fallen leaves. Cool, rainy weather creates perfect conditions for the spores to spread. Dry and hot weather stop the progression of the disease that may begin again once the weather conditions become optimal. The problem can be cyclic but is rarely fatal. Anthracnose fungus infects many deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs, as well as fruits, vegetables and grass. Anthracnose is noticeable along the leaves and the veins as small lesions. These dark, sunken lesions may also be found on stems, flowers and fruits. In order to distinguish between anthracnose and other leaf spot diseases, you should carefully examine the undersides of leaves for a number of small tan to brown dots, about the size of a pin head. If you are unsure about diagnosing anthracnose, consult your local Cooperative Extension office for assistance and additional anthracnose disease info.
What Plants Get Anthracnose?
A wide variety of plants can be affected by anthracnose fungus, including those grown outside of a greenhouse, such as woody ornamentals and tropical foliage plants. Potted plants and greenhouse crops such as cyclamen, ficus, lupine, palms, succulents and yuccas are sometimes affected. Trees and shrubs that are prone to anthracnose include maple, camellia, walnut, ash, azalea, oak and sycamore.
How Do You Treat Anthracnose?
Anthracnose control begins with practicing good sanitation. Picking up and disposing of all diseased plant parts, including twigs and leaves, from the ground or from around the plant is important. This keeps the fungus from overwintering near the plant. Proper pruning techniques to rid trees and plants of old and dead wood also helps with prevention of anthracnose fungus. Keeping plants healthy by providing proper light, water and fertilizer will strengthen the plant’s ability to ward off a fungus attack. Stressed trees and plants have a difficult time recovering from anthracnose fungus. Chemical treatment is rarely used except when the disease involves newly transplanted plants or continual defoliation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
While many people have both heard of and dealt with root rot in houseplants, most are not aware that this disease can also have an adverse effect on garden plants outdoors, including shrubs and trees. Learning more about the cause of root rot and how to look for early signs of root rot in garden plants will go a long way in its treatment. For root rot prevention and treatment info, keep reading. What is Root Rot? Root rot is a disease that attacks the roots of plants growing in wet soil. Since the disease spreads through the soil, the only root rot remedy for garden plants is often to remove and destroy the plant. However, you can try these corrective measures if you want to attempt to save a particularly valuable plant: Keep the soil as dry as possible. Don’t irrigate the plant unless the soil is almost completely dry. Pull back the soil to allow moisture to evaporate from the soil. The cause of root rot is a fungus. Species of the Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi are the usual culprits. These fungi thrive in wet soil, and you can transfer them from one part of the garden to another when you transplant ailing plants.
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks. Treatment for Root Rot The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem.
Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks. Treatment for Root Rot The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem.
Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.
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