文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It’s the greatest feeling in the world when your landscape is complete, the trees are big enough to cast a puddle of shade onto the lawn and you can finally relax after the years you’ve spent turning an old drab lawn into a planted paradise. When you notice that sad little plant in the corner, wilted and covered in dark spots, you’ll know it’s time to get back to work if you know how to recognize botryosphaeria canker on plants.
What is Botryosphaeria Canker? Botryosphaeria canker is a common fungal disease of trees and woody shrubs, but it only attacks plants that are already stressed or weakened by other pathogens. Cankering can become quite extensive within the cambian layers, heartwood and inner bark of woody plants, cutting off the tissues that transport water and nutrients throughout the plant. Affected tissues develop black, pimple-like fruiting structures or cankers on bark surfaces. When the bark is peeled back, the wood underneath will be reddish-brown to brown instead of a healthy white to pale green. Some trees will weep gummy sap or develop blisters on their bark along with the more obvious widespread wilting of botryosphaeria canker disease.
Control of Botryosphaeria Canker If caught early, localized botryosphaeria canker on plants can be cut out and the entire plant saved. In the winter or very early spring before bud break, prune any branches or canes back to unaffected tissues and immediately dispose of infected debris. Prevent spreading the botryosphaeria fungus further by soaking pruning tools in a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water for at least 10 minutes between cuts. Fungicides aren’t generally recommended for botryosphaeria canker treatment, since the fungus penetrates tissues, where chemicals can’t reach. Instead, after pruning out diseased areas of the canopy, pay closer attention to the plant. Make sure that it is properly watered, fertilized and protect it from bark damage.
Once your plant is again thriving, you can keep it from developing new problems with botryosphaeria canker disease by continuing to provide it with excellent care and waiting to prune until late winter or early spring, when it’s still too cold for fungal spores to take hold while the wounds are healing.
What is Botryosphaeria Canker? Botryosphaeria canker is a common fungal disease of trees and woody shrubs, but it only attacks plants that are already stressed or weakened by other pathogens. Cankering can become quite extensive within the cambian layers, heartwood and inner bark of woody plants, cutting off the tissues that transport water and nutrients throughout the plant. Affected tissues develop black, pimple-like fruiting structures or cankers on bark surfaces. When the bark is peeled back, the wood underneath will be reddish-brown to brown instead of a healthy white to pale green. Some trees will weep gummy sap or develop blisters on their bark along with the more obvious widespread wilting of botryosphaeria canker disease.
Control of Botryosphaeria Canker If caught early, localized botryosphaeria canker on plants can be cut out and the entire plant saved. In the winter or very early spring before bud break, prune any branches or canes back to unaffected tissues and immediately dispose of infected debris. Prevent spreading the botryosphaeria fungus further by soaking pruning tools in a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water for at least 10 minutes between cuts. Fungicides aren’t generally recommended for botryosphaeria canker treatment, since the fungus penetrates tissues, where chemicals can’t reach. Instead, after pruning out diseased areas of the canopy, pay closer attention to the plant. Make sure that it is properly watered, fertilized and protect it from bark damage.
Once your plant is again thriving, you can keep it from developing new problems with botryosphaeria canker disease by continuing to provide it with excellent care and waiting to prune until late winter or early spring, when it’s still too cold for fungal spores to take hold while the wounds are healing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Diagnosing plant ailments is crucial to plant management and health. Cenangium canker of trees is one of the more insidious diseases. What is Cenangium canker? Read on for tips on recognizing, treating and managing sooty bark canker. What is Cenangium Canker? Pine, spruce and fir trees provide much needed shade, animal food and cover, and enhance the landscape with their architectural elegance. Unfortunately, these species are prone to fungal diseases such as sooty bark canker, or Cenangium. Over time, the disease can girdle your trees, reducing nutrients and water to the upper growth and preventing the flow of plant starches that feed development.
Trees can die without proper treatment. Cenangium is a fungal disease that produces a slow growing canker that affects the above mentioned evergreens as well as aspens. It is the most widespread canker on trees in the West. Infection begins in July through September when spores germinate and land on damaged or cut parts of the tree. Once the spores have taken root, they fruit and spread anew. Damage is seen as small oval, dead areas of bark. Over time, it can kill entire branches and in a bad year, spread to all parts of the tree. Fortunately, Cenangium canker of trees is extremely slow growing and tree death rarely results unless it is repeatedly attacked over several seasons and also experiences stresses such as low water and other disease or pest issues. Managing Sooty Bark Canker Sadly, there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment. This means early recognition is essential to managing sooty bark canker.
In addition to dead areas of the bark, the needles will begin to brown and die or leaves will wither and fall off. Each year’s growth of the fungus will produce light and dark areas, “zebra”-like girdling of the stems. As the outer bark is eaten away, the interior bark is exposed as powdery and black. Over time, the canker girdles the stem or branch and it will completely die. In nature, this has a somewhat beneficial effect, helping trees get rid of old limbs. Fruiting bodies are 1/8 inch wide, cup-shaped and gray and granular. Since there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment, management of the disease is the only option. The only line of defense is recognizing the symptoms early and taking steps to remove infected plant material. The spores can persist, so it is not recommended to compost the material but rather bag it and send it to the landfill or burn it.
Use good pruning techniques when removing diseased limbs. Do not cut into the branch collar and use sterile tools to prevent spreading the spores. Remove infected limbs as soon as possible before fruiting bodies shoot ripe ascospores into the air in moist conditions. Ascospores are the next generation of the fungus and will rapidly spread in ideal weather climates.
Trees can die without proper treatment. Cenangium is a fungal disease that produces a slow growing canker that affects the above mentioned evergreens as well as aspens. It is the most widespread canker on trees in the West. Infection begins in July through September when spores germinate and land on damaged or cut parts of the tree. Once the spores have taken root, they fruit and spread anew. Damage is seen as small oval, dead areas of bark. Over time, it can kill entire branches and in a bad year, spread to all parts of the tree. Fortunately, Cenangium canker of trees is extremely slow growing and tree death rarely results unless it is repeatedly attacked over several seasons and also experiences stresses such as low water and other disease or pest issues. Managing Sooty Bark Canker Sadly, there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment. This means early recognition is essential to managing sooty bark canker.
In addition to dead areas of the bark, the needles will begin to brown and die or leaves will wither and fall off. Each year’s growth of the fungus will produce light and dark areas, “zebra”-like girdling of the stems. As the outer bark is eaten away, the interior bark is exposed as powdery and black. Over time, the canker girdles the stem or branch and it will completely die. In nature, this has a somewhat beneficial effect, helping trees get rid of old limbs. Fruiting bodies are 1/8 inch wide, cup-shaped and gray and granular. Since there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment, management of the disease is the only option. The only line of defense is recognizing the symptoms early and taking steps to remove infected plant material. The spores can persist, so it is not recommended to compost the material but rather bag it and send it to the landfill or burn it.
Use good pruning techniques when removing diseased limbs. Do not cut into the branch collar and use sterile tools to prevent spreading the spores. Remove infected limbs as soon as possible before fruiting bodies shoot ripe ascospores into the air in moist conditions. Ascospores are the next generation of the fungus and will rapidly spread in ideal weather climates.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Cytospora canker disease generally attacks spruces, especially Colorado blue and Norway varieties, as well as peach trees, Douglas firs or hemlock trees. What is cytospora canker? It is a destructive disease caused by the fungus Leucostoma kunzei that disfigures and can even kill vulnerable trees. Read on for more information about symptoms of cytospora canker as well as cytospora canker treatment.
What is Cytospora Canker? You may not have heard of cytospora canker until after a tree in your backyard is infected. If you notice that the lower limbs on your tree are dying, the tree might have cytospora canker disease. It attacks older trees, stressed trees and those with shallow roots or planted in inappropriate sites. One of the first symptoms of cytospora canker disease on spruce is the browning of needles on the tree’s lower limbs. When they fall, you may notice light patches of resin on the dead bark of the branches.
Over several years, symptoms of cytospora canker spread and upper branches brown and die. Dead areas of bark appear, known as cankers. On trees without needles, like peach trees, look for cankers on branches around pruning wounds. They may be present for several years, extending along the branch, before they kill it. Control of Cytospora Canker You may look to fungicidal sprays as a cytospora canker treatment, but these are not effective and are not recommended by experts. Instead, try using organic methods for control of cytospora canker. Prevention is easier than cytospora canker treatment. Take care not to wound trees susceptible to this disease. Wounds, like those from weed whackers and saws, serve as entry points for the fungus. Crowded trees are more likely to get and pass along the fungus. Plant yours with lots of room and good air circulation.
Take every precaution to keep the trees healthy and strong. Water them during dry periods and fertilize them annually to provide nutrients. Vigorous trees are less likely to get attacked. Prune out any infected branches and burn them, since the fungus overwinters in cankered bark. Use bleach to disinfect the pruners before and after each use. The best time for pruning is late winter or early spring in dry, sunny weather.
What is Cytospora Canker? You may not have heard of cytospora canker until after a tree in your backyard is infected. If you notice that the lower limbs on your tree are dying, the tree might have cytospora canker disease. It attacks older trees, stressed trees and those with shallow roots or planted in inappropriate sites. One of the first symptoms of cytospora canker disease on spruce is the browning of needles on the tree’s lower limbs. When they fall, you may notice light patches of resin on the dead bark of the branches.
Over several years, symptoms of cytospora canker spread and upper branches brown and die. Dead areas of bark appear, known as cankers. On trees without needles, like peach trees, look for cankers on branches around pruning wounds. They may be present for several years, extending along the branch, before they kill it. Control of Cytospora Canker You may look to fungicidal sprays as a cytospora canker treatment, but these are not effective and are not recommended by experts. Instead, try using organic methods for control of cytospora canker. Prevention is easier than cytospora canker treatment. Take care not to wound trees susceptible to this disease. Wounds, like those from weed whackers and saws, serve as entry points for the fungus. Crowded trees are more likely to get and pass along the fungus. Plant yours with lots of room and good air circulation.
Take every precaution to keep the trees healthy and strong. Water them during dry periods and fertilize them annually to provide nutrients. Vigorous trees are less likely to get attacked. Prune out any infected branches and burn them, since the fungus overwinters in cankered bark. Use bleach to disinfect the pruners before and after each use. The best time for pruning is late winter or early spring in dry, sunny weather.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cedar hawthorn rust is a serious disease of hawthorn and juniper trees. There is no cure for the disease, but you can prevent its spread. Find out how to control cedar hawthorn rust in this article. What is Cedar Hawthorn Rust? Caused by a fungus called Gymnosporangium globosum, Cedar hawthorn rust disease is a disfiguring condition of hawthornsand junipers. Although it rarely kills trees, the trees never recover from the damage. You can prune out the worst of it, but once it affects the entire tree, your only choices are to learn to live with it or take the tree down. 
In addition to the rust-colored spots on the leaves, hawthorns may have rusty-looking “fingers” projecting from the fruit. The leaves may yellow and drop from the tree. Junipers develop woody galls that also have rusty fingers. If you recognize and treat the disease early, you may be able to enjoy your tree for several more years.
Cedar Hawthorn Rust Treatment When a tree has visible symptoms of cedar hawthorn rust, it is too late to save the tree. Focus on slowing its progress and preventing it from spreading to other trees in the surrounding area. The fungal spores that infect additional trees are blown about on the wind, so most new infections occur within a few hundred feet of an infected tree. That said, spores have been known to travel a few miles. It’s best to err on the side of caution when deciding whether or not to use preventative treatment on a tree. The two-part life cycle of cedar hawthorn rust disease involves both hawthorns and junipers. Infected hawthorns develop reddish-brown spots (rust) on the leaves and junipers have galls with fingers extending from them. Remove the galls in winter to help prevent spread and never plant junipers near hawthorns.
Although you can’t cure an infected tree, you can prune out infected parts of the tree to improve its health and appearance. Remove entire branches wherever possible. This not only benefits the infected tree, but also reduces the number of spores capable of spreading the infection. Moisture around hawthorn and juniper trees encourages the fungus. Reduce moisture by making sure air circulates freely around the tree. You may be able to accomplish this through pruning. When watering the tree, direct the spray toward the soil rather than the branches. Protect trees from infection by spraying in spring and early summer with an approved fungicide. Both chlorothalonil and mancozeb are registered for use against cedar rust disease on hawthorns. Follow the label instructions and spray the tree until the fungicide drips from the branches. Spray junipers with a Bordeaux mixture every two weeks beginning in midsummer.
In addition to the rust-colored spots on the leaves, hawthorns may have rusty-looking “fingers” projecting from the fruit. The leaves may yellow and drop from the tree. Junipers develop woody galls that also have rusty fingers. If you recognize and treat the disease early, you may be able to enjoy your tree for several more years.
Cedar Hawthorn Rust Treatment When a tree has visible symptoms of cedar hawthorn rust, it is too late to save the tree. Focus on slowing its progress and preventing it from spreading to other trees in the surrounding area. The fungal spores that infect additional trees are blown about on the wind, so most new infections occur within a few hundred feet of an infected tree. That said, spores have been known to travel a few miles. It’s best to err on the side of caution when deciding whether or not to use preventative treatment on a tree. The two-part life cycle of cedar hawthorn rust disease involves both hawthorns and junipers. Infected hawthorns develop reddish-brown spots (rust) on the leaves and junipers have galls with fingers extending from them. Remove the galls in winter to help prevent spread and never plant junipers near hawthorns.
Although you can’t cure an infected tree, you can prune out infected parts of the tree to improve its health and appearance. Remove entire branches wherever possible. This not only benefits the infected tree, but also reduces the number of spores capable of spreading the infection. Moisture around hawthorn and juniper trees encourages the fungus. Reduce moisture by making sure air circulates freely around the tree. You may be able to accomplish this through pruning. When watering the tree, direct the spray toward the soil rather than the branches. Protect trees from infection by spraying in spring and early summer with an approved fungicide. Both chlorothalonil and mancozeb are registered for use against cedar rust disease on hawthorns. Follow the label instructions and spray the tree until the fungicide drips from the branches. Spray junipers with a Bordeaux mixture every two weeks beginning in midsummer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Crocus
Often poking up through the last drifts of snow, crocuses are one of the opening acts of the spring-bulb show. Their large cup-shape blooms suddenly appearing in tufts of grasslike foliage seem magical. Plant crocuses in masses under trees and shrubs or in lawns for a dramatic early spring start in your garden. They thrive in any well-drained soil in full to partial sun.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 3 feet
WIDTH:1-3 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, Red, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Chartreuse/Gold
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control
SPECIAL FEATURES:Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:3-8
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Anemone
Anemones naturalize easily in good garden soil, spreading their early-spring cheer in the ephemeral garden under bare trees and shrubs that later leaf out. These daisylike blooms feature thin, silky petals that quickly disperse in the breeze after flowering. A color range of white, sky blue, pink to the velvety reds and purples of poppy anemones provide jewellike tones for early in the season before the tulips open.
Soak anemone corms in warm water overnight before planting to speed sprouting. These hardy Mediterranean natives flourish in a well-drained, lighter soil in full sun to partial shade.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 12 inches
WIDTH:2-6 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, Red, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green
SEASONAL FEATURES:Fall Bloom, Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom, Winter Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Drought Tolerant, Good For Privacy, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control
SPECIAL FEATURES:Cut Flowers, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:5-9
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus spp
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Malus domestica
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Apples trees aren’t just for people with acres upon acres of land. Even in a small space, you can plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier and yield a successful crop.
PLANTING
Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
Climate Considerations
Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
Tree tags don’t always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for a recommendation specific to your area.
As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Hardiness Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.
Site and Soil
Take a soil test prior to planting your apple trees. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can instruct you in collecting the soil sample, help you interpret the results, and provide valuable information about the soil in your county. Results from the soil test will determine the soil amendments necessary to correct nutrient deficiencies and adjust soil pH. The amendments should be worked into the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches where the tree will root, not just the planting hole.
Apple trees need well-drained soil, nothing too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs “full sunlight,” which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
Tree spacing is influenced by the rootstock, soil fertility, and pruning. Seedlings or full-size trees should be planted about 15 to 18 feet apart in a row. A dwarfing rootstock might be 4 to 8 feet apart in a row.
Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.
Make sure the tree will not be planted in a “frost pocket” where cold air settles in low-lying areas. Choose a higher site with a slip if possible so that cold air will flow away from the trees.
Do not plant trees near wooded areas or trees.
Planting the Tree in the Ground
Before planting, remove all weeds and the grass in a 4-foot diameter circle.
After you purchase the tree, protect it from injury, drying out, freezing, or overheating. If the roots have dried out, soak them in water about 24 hours before planting.
Dig a hole approximately twice the diameter of the root system and 2 feet deep. Place some of the loose soil back into the hole and loosen the soil on the walls of the planting hole so the roots can easily penetrate the soil. Spread the tree roots on the loose soil, making sure they are not twisted or crowded in the hole. Continue to replace soil around the roots. As you begin to cover the roots, firm the soil to be sure it surrounds the roots and to remove air pockets.
Do not add fertilizer at planting time, as the roots can be “burned”. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil, and press the soil down well.
Most apple trees are grafted. The graft union must be at least 2 inches above the soil line so that roots do not emerge from the scion. The graft union (where the scion is attached to the rootstock) can be recognized by the swelling at the junction.
CARE
Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree
Pruning slows a young tree’s overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don’t be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:
Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.
Prune a Mature Tree Annually
Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.
Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
Thin Ruthlessly
Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones, leaving about four inches between those that remain.
PESTS/DISEASES
Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:
Keep deer at bay with repellents, fencing, or deer-resistant plants; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
Sprays may be needed for insects like Japanese beetles, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls—painted red and coated with sticky “Tangle-Trap”—from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawnmower at season’s end.
Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.
To keep insects away from apple trees, make a solution of 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Pour this mixture into a widemouthed plastic jug. Hang the jug, uncovered, in your apple tree.
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Apples trees aren’t just for people with acres upon acres of land. Even in a small space, you can plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier and yield a successful crop.
PLANTING
Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
Climate Considerations
Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
Tree tags don’t always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for a recommendation specific to your area.
As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Hardiness Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.
Site and Soil
Take a soil test prior to planting your apple trees. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can instruct you in collecting the soil sample, help you interpret the results, and provide valuable information about the soil in your county. Results from the soil test will determine the soil amendments necessary to correct nutrient deficiencies and adjust soil pH. The amendments should be worked into the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches where the tree will root, not just the planting hole.
Apple trees need well-drained soil, nothing too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs “full sunlight,” which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
Tree spacing is influenced by the rootstock, soil fertility, and pruning. Seedlings or full-size trees should be planted about 15 to 18 feet apart in a row. A dwarfing rootstock might be 4 to 8 feet apart in a row.
Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.
Make sure the tree will not be planted in a “frost pocket” where cold air settles in low-lying areas. Choose a higher site with a slip if possible so that cold air will flow away from the trees.
Do not plant trees near wooded areas or trees.
Planting the Tree in the Ground
Before planting, remove all weeds and the grass in a 4-foot diameter circle.
After you purchase the tree, protect it from injury, drying out, freezing, or overheating. If the roots have dried out, soak them in water about 24 hours before planting.
Dig a hole approximately twice the diameter of the root system and 2 feet deep. Place some of the loose soil back into the hole and loosen the soil on the walls of the planting hole so the roots can easily penetrate the soil. Spread the tree roots on the loose soil, making sure they are not twisted or crowded in the hole. Continue to replace soil around the roots. As you begin to cover the roots, firm the soil to be sure it surrounds the roots and to remove air pockets.
Do not add fertilizer at planting time, as the roots can be “burned”. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil, and press the soil down well.
Most apple trees are grafted. The graft union must be at least 2 inches above the soil line so that roots do not emerge from the scion. The graft union (where the scion is attached to the rootstock) can be recognized by the swelling at the junction.
CARE
Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree
Pruning slows a young tree’s overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don’t be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:
Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.
Prune a Mature Tree Annually
Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.
Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
Thin Ruthlessly
Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones, leaving about four inches between those that remain.
PESTS/DISEASES
Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:
Keep deer at bay with repellents, fencing, or deer-resistant plants; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
Sprays may be needed for insects like Japanese beetles, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls—painted red and coated with sticky “Tangle-Trap”—from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawnmower at season’s end.
Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.
To keep insects away from apple trees, make a solution of 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Pour this mixture into a widemouthed plastic jug. Hang the jug, uncovered, in your apple tree.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Deciding on what is the best location to place your Bonsai trees can be hard, as several factors (local climate, time of year, tree species, etc.) should be taken into consideration.
Bonsai location; rule of thumb
Most outdoor trees are best placed on a bright spot, about half the day in direct sunlight and protected from the wind. Continue reading about outdoor species here.
Indoor trees are best placed on a bright position as well; usually right in front of a window facing the South. Place indoor trees somewhere with a constant temperature. Continue reading about indoor Bonsai here.
Bonsai location; rule of thumb
Most outdoor trees are best placed on a bright spot, about half the day in direct sunlight and protected from the wind. Continue reading about outdoor species here.
Indoor trees are best placed on a bright position as well; usually right in front of a window facing the South. Place indoor trees somewhere with a constant temperature. Continue reading about indoor Bonsai here.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
how often Bonsai trees need to be watered depends on too many factors to give exact guidelines. Instead, you need to learn to observe your trees and know when they need to be watered. The following general guidelines will help you to get Bonsai watering right:
Water your trees when the soil gets slightly dry
This means you should not water your tree when the soil is still wet but only when it feels slightly dry; use your fingers to check the soil at around 0.4’’ (one centimeter) deep. Once you get more experienced you will be able to see (instead of feel) when a tree needs watering.
Never water on a routine
Keep observing your trees individually, instead of watering them on a daily routine, until you know exactly what you are doing.
Use the right soil-mixture
The soil-mixture greatly influences how often trees need to be watered, for most Bonsai trees a mixture of akadama, pumice and lava rock mixed together in a ratio of ½ to ¼ to ¼ should be fine. However, use a mixture that retains more water (by using more akadama, or even potting compost) when you cannot water your trees that regularly. Read the Bonsai soil mixtures article for more information.
When?
It doesn't really matter at what time you water a Bonsai. Some advice to avoid watering (with very cold water) during the afternoon, when the soil has been warmed up by the sun and will cool down rapidly when using cold water. Though this can be taken into consideration, it should always be clear that you should water your tree no matter what time it is, as soon as the soil gets slightly dry!
How to water Bonsai trees?
As explained previously, water when the soil gets slightly dry. When the tree does require water though, it needs thorough soaking so the entire root system is wetted. To do so, keep watering until water runs out of the drainage holes, and possibly repeat the process a few minutes later.
Water a tree from above using a watering can with a fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil from being washed away. Using collected rain water is better (as it doesn’t contain added chemicals), but when this is not readily available there is no problem in using normal tap water. There are also automated watering systems, but these are often quite costly.
Water your trees when the soil gets slightly dry
This means you should not water your tree when the soil is still wet but only when it feels slightly dry; use your fingers to check the soil at around 0.4’’ (one centimeter) deep. Once you get more experienced you will be able to see (instead of feel) when a tree needs watering.
Never water on a routine
Keep observing your trees individually, instead of watering them on a daily routine, until you know exactly what you are doing.
Use the right soil-mixture
The soil-mixture greatly influences how often trees need to be watered, for most Bonsai trees a mixture of akadama, pumice and lava rock mixed together in a ratio of ½ to ¼ to ¼ should be fine. However, use a mixture that retains more water (by using more akadama, or even potting compost) when you cannot water your trees that regularly. Read the Bonsai soil mixtures article for more information.
When?
It doesn't really matter at what time you water a Bonsai. Some advice to avoid watering (with very cold water) during the afternoon, when the soil has been warmed up by the sun and will cool down rapidly when using cold water. Though this can be taken into consideration, it should always be clear that you should water your tree no matter what time it is, as soon as the soil gets slightly dry!
How to water Bonsai trees?
As explained previously, water when the soil gets slightly dry. When the tree does require water though, it needs thorough soaking so the entire root system is wetted. To do so, keep watering until water runs out of the drainage holes, and possibly repeat the process a few minutes later.
Water a tree from above using a watering can with a fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil from being washed away. Using collected rain water is better (as it doesn’t contain added chemicals), but when this is not readily available there is no problem in using normal tap water. There are also automated watering systems, but these are often quite costly.
2
4
文章
lenny
2017年05月23日
Growing Banana trees in pots is easy, if you’re unable to grow it on the ground either due to lack of space or cold climate. Learn how to grow banana trees in this complete article.
There are banana varieties that can withstand temperature drops and grows well in containers, popular especially among the fans of exotic tropical plants in the garden.
The first question that may come up in your mind is– Will banana tree in a pot can bear fruits?
And the answer is yes. It is possible, a banana tree bears fruits in pot prolifically. It may take up to 3 to 5 years to fruit if grown from seeds.
Growing Banana Trees in Pots
Banana is a lush green, fast-growing plant that can give any place a tropical look and feel. Many varieties become excellent houseplants that don’t need much care and grow up very quickly.
Dwarf varieties of banana trees can grow anywhere between 2 to 4 meters. Compared to the ordinary banana trees that can reach up to 15 meters high.
Growing Banana Trees in Pots in Tropics
Growing banana tree in pot in a tropical climate is extremely easy, with little to no care banana tree grows in the container. If you’re living under USDA Zones 9 to 11, keep your banana tree in the shade in afternoon in summer, when the plant is young. All the other requirements are similar as given below in the article for temperate zones.
Banana Varieties you can Grow in Pots and Indoors
These dwarf varieties of banana tree restrict up to only 1.5 m to 4 m. (4 to 12 feet) tall and are suitable to grow in containers. You can also grow these banana varieties indoors.
Dwarf RedDwarf CavendishDwarf BrazilianDwarf JamaicanRajapuriWilliams HybridGran NainDwarf ‘Lady Finger’
If you would like to grow ornamental bananas check out these varieties:
Ensete ventricosumMusa sikkimensis ‘Red Tiger’Musa ornata
Also read: How to grow lemon in Pots
Requirements for Growing Banana Trees in PotsSun
Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. If you’re growing banana tree you should keep it in a spot that receives the sun most of the day but preferably sheltered from the wind.
Soil
Growing Banana tree requires well-draining soil, sandy soil that is rich in organic matters and compost. Buy a good quality potting mix for your banana tree. If you are making it at home make sure to mix sand, perlite, and compost or manure.
Banana needs slightly acidic to neutral soil to produce those potassium rich nutritious bananas. The soil pH should be around 6 – 7. If your soil is alkaline mix sulfur to decrease the pH.
Watering
Banana loves moisture. Water it regularly and deeply but care not to overwater. In summer, water it every day. It may need water even two times a day in hot weather or when it is root bound. Soil for growing banana plants should be kept uniformly moist. Reduce watering in winter.
Banana Plant in Pot Care
Humidity
Banana plant prefers humidity levels above 50%. To increase humidity level around the plant, mist the plant and place it on a layer of pebbles in a tray filled with water.
Overwintering Banana Tree
Banana plants stop growing when the temperature drops below 50 ° Fahrenheit.
Before the onset of winter, do heavy mulching and prune the leaves.
Put it in a warm, bright room till the spring.
Fertilizer
Banana is a fast growing plant and it requires heavy feeding to grow at its full strength. Fertilize young plant when it establishes well with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help it grow faster. Once your banana tree in pot becomes mature enough to produce fruit, fertilize it with 15:5:30 fertilizer regularly.
Pests and diseases
Bananas are quite resistant to diseases, still when you see the leaves turning brown and drying at the edges it means you’re overwatering and if the leaves turn yellow, banana plant is having a lack of nutrients.
Some pests that might attack banana plant are banana aphids, banana weevil, and coconut scale. These pests can easily be repelled using organic pesticides.
There are banana varieties that can withstand temperature drops and grows well in containers, popular especially among the fans of exotic tropical plants in the garden.
The first question that may come up in your mind is– Will banana tree in a pot can bear fruits?
And the answer is yes. It is possible, a banana tree bears fruits in pot prolifically. It may take up to 3 to 5 years to fruit if grown from seeds.
Growing Banana Trees in Pots
Banana is a lush green, fast-growing plant that can give any place a tropical look and feel. Many varieties become excellent houseplants that don’t need much care and grow up very quickly.
Dwarf varieties of banana trees can grow anywhere between 2 to 4 meters. Compared to the ordinary banana trees that can reach up to 15 meters high.
Growing Banana Trees in Pots in Tropics
Growing banana tree in pot in a tropical climate is extremely easy, with little to no care banana tree grows in the container. If you’re living under USDA Zones 9 to 11, keep your banana tree in the shade in afternoon in summer, when the plant is young. All the other requirements are similar as given below in the article for temperate zones.
Banana Varieties you can Grow in Pots and Indoors
These dwarf varieties of banana tree restrict up to only 1.5 m to 4 m. (4 to 12 feet) tall and are suitable to grow in containers. You can also grow these banana varieties indoors.
Dwarf RedDwarf CavendishDwarf BrazilianDwarf JamaicanRajapuriWilliams HybridGran NainDwarf ‘Lady Finger’
If you would like to grow ornamental bananas check out these varieties:
Ensete ventricosumMusa sikkimensis ‘Red Tiger’Musa ornata
Also read: How to grow lemon in Pots
Requirements for Growing Banana Trees in PotsSun
Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. If you’re growing banana tree you should keep it in a spot that receives the sun most of the day but preferably sheltered from the wind.
Soil
Growing Banana tree requires well-draining soil, sandy soil that is rich in organic matters and compost. Buy a good quality potting mix for your banana tree. If you are making it at home make sure to mix sand, perlite, and compost or manure.
Banana needs slightly acidic to neutral soil to produce those potassium rich nutritious bananas. The soil pH should be around 6 – 7. If your soil is alkaline mix sulfur to decrease the pH.
Watering
Banana loves moisture. Water it regularly and deeply but care not to overwater. In summer, water it every day. It may need water even two times a day in hot weather or when it is root bound. Soil for growing banana plants should be kept uniformly moist. Reduce watering in winter.
Banana Plant in Pot Care
Humidity
Banana plant prefers humidity levels above 50%. To increase humidity level around the plant, mist the plant and place it on a layer of pebbles in a tray filled with water.
Overwintering Banana Tree
Banana plants stop growing when the temperature drops below 50 ° Fahrenheit.
Before the onset of winter, do heavy mulching and prune the leaves.
Put it in a warm, bright room till the spring.
Fertilizer
Banana is a fast growing plant and it requires heavy feeding to grow at its full strength. Fertilize young plant when it establishes well with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help it grow faster. Once your banana tree in pot becomes mature enough to produce fruit, fertilize it with 15:5:30 fertilizer regularly.
Pests and diseases
Bananas are quite resistant to diseases, still when you see the leaves turning brown and drying at the edges it means you’re overwatering and if the leaves turn yellow, banana plant is having a lack of nutrients.
Some pests that might attack banana plant are banana aphids, banana weevil, and coconut scale. These pests can easily be repelled using organic pesticides.
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2
文章
Juze
2017年05月23日
Learn how to grow papaya tree. Growing papaya is perfect for gardeners who like to grow easy to grow fruit trees. Papaya tree care is simple, it is low maintenance and productive.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Banane de Prairie, Caricae Papayae Folium, Carica papaya, Carica peltata, Carica posoposa, Chirbhita, Erandachirbhita, Erand Karkati, Green Papaya, Mamaerie, Melonenbaumblaetter, Melon Tree, Papaw, Pawpaw, Papaya Fruit, Papayas, Papaye, Papaye Verte, Papayer, Papita.
Papaya (Carica papaya L.) is native to the tropics of Mexico and Central America. This fruit for high nutritional value, great taste and medicinal properties.
Papaya is mainly consumed as a fruit, but it is also used for making soft drinks, juices, pickles, jams, and curries. It produces latex that is extracted from the green fruit and stem, which contains an enzyme called papain that helps in digestion of proteins.
Plant Characteristics
Papaya is a herbaceous plant of relatively rapid growth and short life (not profitable to cultivate mature plants for longer than 3 years because the fruit yield gets low). It has a hollow, segmented and erect single stem and no branches. It presents a many large, lobed leaves. The plant height can reach up to several meters.
The fruit has a wide variety of forms, its shape and size vary depending on the variety and type of flower.
Pollination
If you’re growing papaya you must know that papayas come in three sexes: Male, female and hermaphrodite (bisexual). Male papaya trees must be eliminated as they don’t produce fruits. Female papaya trees require male tree for pollination. In orchards and papaya plantations, generally, 1 male tree per 10 female trees is grown. Bisexual papaya trees are self-pollinating and don’t require male trees for pollination. Commercial growers plant them. You will need to plant either female or bisexual papaya tree.
To learn how to identify male or female papaya, tree read this informative discussion on helpful gardener
Our recommendation for you is to buy seeds from quality source so that you know what you’re buying and to get a self-fertile bisexual tree. Most of the hybrid varieties that are coming are either bisexual or female, it is better to buy them. If you’re sowing seeds obtained from the fruits, choose seeds from elongated fruits instead of rounded fruits. Elongated fruits have 66% probability of hermaphrodite (bisexual) seeds and 33% female seeds.
Cross pollination from hand is required for pollination of female papaya trees.
How to Grow Papaya in Pots
Growing papaya in pots is not difficult, considering it is short living small tree. You can grow any papaya variety in pots but it is better to choose a dwarf variety.
Choosing a container
Choose a large 15-20 gallon size container for growing papaya in pots, also, ensure there are enough drainage holes in the bottom before planting. A pot that is around 18-22 inches in diameter and 12-15 inches deep would be sufficient.
Sow the seeds directly in the pot you wish to use for growing papaya tree as papayas don’t transplant well. All the other growing requirements are given below in the article.
Growing Papaya from Seeds
Seeds must be given treatment before sowing for germination. The first method is to simply wash the seeds to remove gelatinous coating before sowing. Another method is to immerse them in a container full of neutral water for the period of 4 days. Change the water twice in a day. After 2 days of soaking, separate the seeds that are floating on the surface from those that have settled down.
Leave the seeds that are settled down for another day. After this time, the seeds that float up again must be removed. This way only the viable papaya seeds are left. On the last day when changing the water, add fungicides in it.
After this process, keep the seeds on cotton cloth for 2 to 3 days, keeping up the seeds wet. Once the white dot in them can be observed they are ready for sowing.
Proceed to sow the seeds directly on the ground or in the pot or seed tray but remember that papaya trees don’t transplant well and you’ll have a low success rate. Seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks. Optimum germination temperature is around 70 F (20 C).
Planting Papaya Tree
Once the seedlings germinate sow them directly in a spot as papayas have less success rate when transplanted.
Prepare the ground well before planting. Make a hole in soil that is of the same depth as of rootball of the plant but twice wide. Apply slow release 16-48-0, 18-46-0 or balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer according to the product instruction at the base of the hole, fill it with a thin layer of soil to prevent the plant roots from coming in direct contact with the fertilizer.
The base of each plant should be 1 cm above ground level, to prevent rot at the stem base. After transplanting, a fungicide can be applied to ensure greater protection especially if planting during the rainy season.
How to Grow Papaya Tree in Cold Climate
Papaya is a tropical fruit tree but if you are thinking to plant it in a temperate climate plant it in a large pot and try to overwinter it in a well-protected area, like a greenhouse. Another way is to start the seeds in fall, or in early spring indoors. Once the temperature soars up to plant the seedlings outside. The tree will grow until the frost comes and get killed but there is a possibility that you’ll get some juicy papayas.
Requirements for Growing Papaya TreeTemperature
It is also an important factor that determines if the plant will grow or not. Papaya is one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow the optimum temperature for growing papaya ranges between 68 – 86 F (20 to 30 C).
Low temperatures lead to a slow growth of the plant and higher temperatures cause low production. However, papaya tree can bear cold temperature down to 32 F (0 C) for a short period of time. In extremely high tropical temperatures and in heat waves and droughts, flower buds fall and the plant suspends its growth.
Location
The papaya needs plenty of sun due to its high photosynthetic activity. It is impossible to grow it in the lack of sunlight. One more thing you need to keep in mind when choosing a location for growing papaya trees that they are not strongest and must not be planted in a too windy spot.
Spacing
Papaya trees must be spaced 8-10 feet apart from each other.
Soil
The main characteristics of soil for growing a papaya tree are following:
Loose and moist.With good drainage.High organic matter content.A pH level around 5.5 to 7 (Neutral).Fertile and deep.
The ideal growing medium must be loamy and have adequate content of organic matter with good moisture retention and efficient drainage. Soil depth is also an important factor for root development. The soil that is more than a meter deep is suitable. Compact soil must be avoided, also, clean the rocks or other debris that is limiting the development of roots till the following depth.
Drainage is crucial in papaya cultivation. The proportion of sand, silt and clay determines the texture and soil structure.
Sandy soils have better drainage than clay. But too sandy soils that are low in organic matter have reduced water retention capacity, which must be avoided.
In clay-rich soils, water movement is slow and this can lead to root rot, slow development of plant and inhibit nutrition uptake. In very alkaline soils (above pH level 8.0) Zinc, iron, and other micro-element deficiency can occur.
Excess water causes yellowing of young leaves, premature fall of flowers and contribute to root rot. Low moisture in the soil can lead to slow growth, accelerated aging and premature leaf and fruit drop.
Good soil preparation practices are key to growing papaya, such as deep plowing and mixing organic matter.
Watering
Water is the main contributor of the plant (the plant is composed about 85% of water). In the process of germination, and first few months after planting, papaya needs a lot of water, so at this stage water regularly.
In the dry season, to get the good results in production, watering must be increased again. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. As a rule of thumb, water papaya plant deeply when top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Papaya Tree Care
Papaya tree care is easy if you grow it in the warm conditions in full sun.
Mulching
Mulching papaya tree with organic matter helps in retaining moisture, which is essential.
Fertilizer
Papayas are heavy feeders. Apply plenty of manure or compost regularly near the base of your plant.
You can also apply complete fertilizer 15-15-15, 0.1 kg or a similar mixture at intervals of two weeks during the first six months and 0.2 kg thereafter.
Pruning
No pruning is required.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that can attack it are fruit flies, mites, black vine weevil, aphids, leafhoppers, and whitefly. In diseases, it suffers from soil fungi, powdery mildew, fruit rot, papaya ringspot virus, and nematodes.
Harvesting Papayas
Papaya fruit set occurs 10-12 months after planting. The fruit is sensitive to sunburn and it must be separated from the tree carefully using plastic gloves or something similar, pick it lightly with a twist or use a short knife, leaving 0.5 cm stalk.
Harvesting should be done according to the following maturity indices:
1. 0% Ripe: Completely green, but well developed.
2. 10-15% Ripe: Color change, one or two yellow stripes with 10-15% yellow surface shell surrounded by a bright green color.
3. 25% Ripe: 25% of the surface of the shell is yellow surrounded by the clear green color.
4. 75% Ripe: 75% of the surface is yellow.
5. 76-100% Ripe: The surface of the shell have yellow to orange color.
Papaya is a fruit that after being cut continues its maturation without stopping. Papayas that are harvested for selling in the market are harvested green with two or three yellow stripes as fruits that reach 75 to 100% maturity are difficult to transport. Fruits must be harvested in the early hours of the day and must not be exposed to the sun.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Banane de Prairie, Caricae Papayae Folium, Carica papaya, Carica peltata, Carica posoposa, Chirbhita, Erandachirbhita, Erand Karkati, Green Papaya, Mamaerie, Melonenbaumblaetter, Melon Tree, Papaw, Pawpaw, Papaya Fruit, Papayas, Papaye, Papaye Verte, Papayer, Papita.
Papaya (Carica papaya L.) is native to the tropics of Mexico and Central America. This fruit for high nutritional value, great taste and medicinal properties.
Papaya is mainly consumed as a fruit, but it is also used for making soft drinks, juices, pickles, jams, and curries. It produces latex that is extracted from the green fruit and stem, which contains an enzyme called papain that helps in digestion of proteins.
Plant Characteristics
Papaya is a herbaceous plant of relatively rapid growth and short life (not profitable to cultivate mature plants for longer than 3 years because the fruit yield gets low). It has a hollow, segmented and erect single stem and no branches. It presents a many large, lobed leaves. The plant height can reach up to several meters.
The fruit has a wide variety of forms, its shape and size vary depending on the variety and type of flower.
Pollination
If you’re growing papaya you must know that papayas come in three sexes: Male, female and hermaphrodite (bisexual). Male papaya trees must be eliminated as they don’t produce fruits. Female papaya trees require male tree for pollination. In orchards and papaya plantations, generally, 1 male tree per 10 female trees is grown. Bisexual papaya trees are self-pollinating and don’t require male trees for pollination. Commercial growers plant them. You will need to plant either female or bisexual papaya tree.
To learn how to identify male or female papaya, tree read this informative discussion on helpful gardener
Our recommendation for you is to buy seeds from quality source so that you know what you’re buying and to get a self-fertile bisexual tree. Most of the hybrid varieties that are coming are either bisexual or female, it is better to buy them. If you’re sowing seeds obtained from the fruits, choose seeds from elongated fruits instead of rounded fruits. Elongated fruits have 66% probability of hermaphrodite (bisexual) seeds and 33% female seeds.
Cross pollination from hand is required for pollination of female papaya trees.
How to Grow Papaya in Pots
Growing papaya in pots is not difficult, considering it is short living small tree. You can grow any papaya variety in pots but it is better to choose a dwarf variety.
Choosing a container
Choose a large 15-20 gallon size container for growing papaya in pots, also, ensure there are enough drainage holes in the bottom before planting. A pot that is around 18-22 inches in diameter and 12-15 inches deep would be sufficient.
Sow the seeds directly in the pot you wish to use for growing papaya tree as papayas don’t transplant well. All the other growing requirements are given below in the article.
Growing Papaya from Seeds
Seeds must be given treatment before sowing for germination. The first method is to simply wash the seeds to remove gelatinous coating before sowing. Another method is to immerse them in a container full of neutral water for the period of 4 days. Change the water twice in a day. After 2 days of soaking, separate the seeds that are floating on the surface from those that have settled down.
Leave the seeds that are settled down for another day. After this time, the seeds that float up again must be removed. This way only the viable papaya seeds are left. On the last day when changing the water, add fungicides in it.
After this process, keep the seeds on cotton cloth for 2 to 3 days, keeping up the seeds wet. Once the white dot in them can be observed they are ready for sowing.
Proceed to sow the seeds directly on the ground or in the pot or seed tray but remember that papaya trees don’t transplant well and you’ll have a low success rate. Seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks. Optimum germination temperature is around 70 F (20 C).
Planting Papaya Tree
Once the seedlings germinate sow them directly in a spot as papayas have less success rate when transplanted.
Prepare the ground well before planting. Make a hole in soil that is of the same depth as of rootball of the plant but twice wide. Apply slow release 16-48-0, 18-46-0 or balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer according to the product instruction at the base of the hole, fill it with a thin layer of soil to prevent the plant roots from coming in direct contact with the fertilizer.
The base of each plant should be 1 cm above ground level, to prevent rot at the stem base. After transplanting, a fungicide can be applied to ensure greater protection especially if planting during the rainy season.
How to Grow Papaya Tree in Cold Climate
Papaya is a tropical fruit tree but if you are thinking to plant it in a temperate climate plant it in a large pot and try to overwinter it in a well-protected area, like a greenhouse. Another way is to start the seeds in fall, or in early spring indoors. Once the temperature soars up to plant the seedlings outside. The tree will grow until the frost comes and get killed but there is a possibility that you’ll get some juicy papayas.
Requirements for Growing Papaya TreeTemperature
It is also an important factor that determines if the plant will grow or not. Papaya is one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow the optimum temperature for growing papaya ranges between 68 – 86 F (20 to 30 C).
Low temperatures lead to a slow growth of the plant and higher temperatures cause low production. However, papaya tree can bear cold temperature down to 32 F (0 C) for a short period of time. In extremely high tropical temperatures and in heat waves and droughts, flower buds fall and the plant suspends its growth.
Location
The papaya needs plenty of sun due to its high photosynthetic activity. It is impossible to grow it in the lack of sunlight. One more thing you need to keep in mind when choosing a location for growing papaya trees that they are not strongest and must not be planted in a too windy spot.
Spacing
Papaya trees must be spaced 8-10 feet apart from each other.
Soil
The main characteristics of soil for growing a papaya tree are following:
Loose and moist.With good drainage.High organic matter content.A pH level around 5.5 to 7 (Neutral).Fertile and deep.
The ideal growing medium must be loamy and have adequate content of organic matter with good moisture retention and efficient drainage. Soil depth is also an important factor for root development. The soil that is more than a meter deep is suitable. Compact soil must be avoided, also, clean the rocks or other debris that is limiting the development of roots till the following depth.
Drainage is crucial in papaya cultivation. The proportion of sand, silt and clay determines the texture and soil structure.
Sandy soils have better drainage than clay. But too sandy soils that are low in organic matter have reduced water retention capacity, which must be avoided.
In clay-rich soils, water movement is slow and this can lead to root rot, slow development of plant and inhibit nutrition uptake. In very alkaline soils (above pH level 8.0) Zinc, iron, and other micro-element deficiency can occur.
Excess water causes yellowing of young leaves, premature fall of flowers and contribute to root rot. Low moisture in the soil can lead to slow growth, accelerated aging and premature leaf and fruit drop.
Good soil preparation practices are key to growing papaya, such as deep plowing and mixing organic matter.
Watering
Water is the main contributor of the plant (the plant is composed about 85% of water). In the process of germination, and first few months after planting, papaya needs a lot of water, so at this stage water regularly.
In the dry season, to get the good results in production, watering must be increased again. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. As a rule of thumb, water papaya plant deeply when top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Papaya Tree Care
Papaya tree care is easy if you grow it in the warm conditions in full sun.
Mulching
Mulching papaya tree with organic matter helps in retaining moisture, which is essential.
Fertilizer
Papayas are heavy feeders. Apply plenty of manure or compost regularly near the base of your plant.
You can also apply complete fertilizer 15-15-15, 0.1 kg or a similar mixture at intervals of two weeks during the first six months and 0.2 kg thereafter.
Pruning
No pruning is required.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that can attack it are fruit flies, mites, black vine weevil, aphids, leafhoppers, and whitefly. In diseases, it suffers from soil fungi, powdery mildew, fruit rot, papaya ringspot virus, and nematodes.
Harvesting Papayas
Papaya fruit set occurs 10-12 months after planting. The fruit is sensitive to sunburn and it must be separated from the tree carefully using plastic gloves or something similar, pick it lightly with a twist or use a short knife, leaving 0.5 cm stalk.
Harvesting should be done according to the following maturity indices:
1. 0% Ripe: Completely green, but well developed.
2. 10-15% Ripe: Color change, one or two yellow stripes with 10-15% yellow surface shell surrounded by a bright green color.
3. 25% Ripe: 25% of the surface of the shell is yellow surrounded by the clear green color.
4. 75% Ripe: 75% of the surface is yellow.
5. 76-100% Ripe: The surface of the shell have yellow to orange color.
Papaya is a fruit that after being cut continues its maturation without stopping. Papayas that are harvested for selling in the market are harvested green with two or three yellow stripes as fruits that reach 75 to 100% maturity are difficult to transport. Fruits must be harvested in the early hours of the day and must not be exposed to the sun.
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