文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月13日
Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is a large flowering shrub with bright green, lobed, hairy leaves that stretch roughly 3 to 6 inches long and wide. The stems can grow tall and wide enough to become tree-like. But the plant's flowers are its real show-stopping feature.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月03日
The Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a large multi-stemed deciduous shrub that is sometimes trained as a small tree. The growth habit is usually round or oval in shape. The green foliage is 2 to 4 inches long, presenting in an opposite leaf arrangement. As with other dogwoods, there is also opposite branching.
A winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, this shrub features clusters of yellow flowers appearing at the end of winter or early spring, which then lead to edible red fruits. This is one of the earliest shrubs to bloom, with blossoms that unfurl before the leaves. The clusters of yellow flowers are similar in appearance to forsythia, and the red stone fruits (drupes) that ripen in July resemble olives in size and shape. They are used in European cuisine for drinks, syrups, preserves, jams, and sauces. They can be eaten fresh or dried, though they need to be fully ripe in order to lose some of their bitterness.
The leaves of cornelian cherry dogwood may develop some shades of reddish-purple in fall, though the display is not notable. The peeling, exfoliating brown bark adds some four-season interest to the plant. Cornelian cherry dogwood is a fairly slow-growing species that will take up to 10 years to achieve 15 feet in height. It is normally planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Cornus mas
Common Names Cornelian cherry dogwood, cornelian cherry, European cornel
Plant Type Deciduous shrub/ tree
Mature Size 15 to 25 feet tall; 15- to 20-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 8.0 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time March
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Southwestern Asia, Southern Europe
How to Grow Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub will grow suitably in almost any well-drained soil in a location that gets at least 4 hours of sunlight daily. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought or occasional flooding, but will not survive constant soaking in dense soils.
The fruit, while tasty, has a large pit that makes it somewhat laborious to harvest and use in cooking. If you do grow this plant for the fruit, it's best to plant at least two shrubs. Cornelian cherry dogwood is somewhat self-fertile, but the results will be better if there are at least two shrubs to cross-pollinate.
The cornelian cherry dogwood can spread by suckers, so keep the plant in check by removing them promptly.
Light
This shrub prefers a location that offers full sun to part shade. It requires a bit more sun than most dogwoods—less than 4 hours of sun daily will lead to reduced flowering and fruit production.
Soil
Cornelian cherry dogwood is most happy with a well-drained rich soil that has a good amount of humus in it. It will fail to thrive in dense soils that remain constantly wet. While most dogwoods prefer slightly acidic soil, cornelian cherry dogwood can do fine even in slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
This plant has average water needs—it will thrive with about 1 inch of water per week in the form of rainfall and/or irrigation. Make sure the moisture penetrates the soil to a depth of about 6 inches. Once established, this type of dogwood is fairly resilient, bouncing back from being flooded during wet spells or parched during drought.
Temperature and Humidity
Rated for USDA zones 4 to 8, cornelian cherry dogwood will survive temperatures down to minus-25 or minus-30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Like most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is best fertilized once in the early spring, then once about three months later. Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the roots. If you have extremely alkaline soil, using an acidifying fertilizer may help.
Pruning Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub tends to form multiple leader stems, and to control the size you'll need to prune away suckers that appear. To train the plant as a small tree, select a main leader as a trunk, then systematically prune away competing shoots. This species also can be readily pruned to maintain as a hedge plant.
The best timing for hard pruning is immediately after the flowers have faded in spring, but be aware that you'll lose the fruits for that season.
Propagating Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
As with most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is most often propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
Snip 3- to 5-inch cuttings from the tips of green stems, then remove the bottom set of leaves. Cut the other leaves in half, but leave them on the cuttings. Dip the cut ends in a rooting compound, then plant the cuttings in small containers filled with a commercial seed-starter mix or a mixture of perlite and sand.
Place the planted cutting inside a large plastic bag, and place the pot in a bright, warm location. Check the cutting weekly to see if roots have developed (you will feel resistance when tugging on the cutting). When a good network of roots has developed (about 6 weeks), remove the plastic bag, and continue growing the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the potting mix moist. At the point where the cutting outgrows its first pot, you can repot it in a container filled with ordinary potting mix. When it outgrows this second pot, it is ready to plant in the landscape. This process may involve growing the rooted cutting indoors over the winter, then transplanting it outdoors the following spring.
Common Pests/ Diseases
When properly grown in the right conditions, this shrub has few disease or pest issues. While it is not immune to the dogwood anthracnose disease that plagues many types of dogwood, this species is decidedly more resistant to that disease.
The easy-care reputation is lost, though, if a cornelian cherry dogwood becomes unhealthy. Stressed plants can be susceptible to borers; and leaf miner, gall midge, and scale may also become more than just cosmetic problems.
Potential disease problems include leaf spot, crown canker, root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf blight. Here, too, it is stressed trees or those planted in less than ideal circumstances that are most vulnerable.
Varieties of Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
For a shrub with variegated leaves, choose the 'Variegata' or `Elegantissima' cultivars.
If you prefer golden leaves, look for 'Aurea'.
Try 'Nana' if you want a plant that only reaches about 3 feet tall.
For yellow fruit rather than red, plant 'Xanthocarpa' or 'Flava'
'Fructu Violaceo' produces purple fruits.
'Alba' has white fruits.
If you live in the Southern United States, 'Spring Glow' is an excellent choice to handle the conditions found there.
‘Golden Glory’ has extra-large flowers and large fruit, with a more upright branching growth habit.
Landscape Uses
Cornelian cherry dogwood is highly prized for its very early spring blooms. It works well as a hedge, screen, or foundation plant, or can be grouped with other shrubs species in a mixed border. It can also be trained as a small specimen tree. Juxtaposed against a dark green woodland background, the yellow blossoms pop with color.
This form of dogwood is a good choice if you want to lure birds, squirrels, and other animals to your garden, as they love the fruit.
A winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, this shrub features clusters of yellow flowers appearing at the end of winter or early spring, which then lead to edible red fruits. This is one of the earliest shrubs to bloom, with blossoms that unfurl before the leaves. The clusters of yellow flowers are similar in appearance to forsythia, and the red stone fruits (drupes) that ripen in July resemble olives in size and shape. They are used in European cuisine for drinks, syrups, preserves, jams, and sauces. They can be eaten fresh or dried, though they need to be fully ripe in order to lose some of their bitterness.
The leaves of cornelian cherry dogwood may develop some shades of reddish-purple in fall, though the display is not notable. The peeling, exfoliating brown bark adds some four-season interest to the plant. Cornelian cherry dogwood is a fairly slow-growing species that will take up to 10 years to achieve 15 feet in height. It is normally planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Cornus mas
Common Names Cornelian cherry dogwood, cornelian cherry, European cornel
Plant Type Deciduous shrub/ tree
Mature Size 15 to 25 feet tall; 15- to 20-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 8.0 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time March
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Southwestern Asia, Southern Europe
How to Grow Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub will grow suitably in almost any well-drained soil in a location that gets at least 4 hours of sunlight daily. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought or occasional flooding, but will not survive constant soaking in dense soils.
The fruit, while tasty, has a large pit that makes it somewhat laborious to harvest and use in cooking. If you do grow this plant for the fruit, it's best to plant at least two shrubs. Cornelian cherry dogwood is somewhat self-fertile, but the results will be better if there are at least two shrubs to cross-pollinate.
The cornelian cherry dogwood can spread by suckers, so keep the plant in check by removing them promptly.
Light
This shrub prefers a location that offers full sun to part shade. It requires a bit more sun than most dogwoods—less than 4 hours of sun daily will lead to reduced flowering and fruit production.
Soil
Cornelian cherry dogwood is most happy with a well-drained rich soil that has a good amount of humus in it. It will fail to thrive in dense soils that remain constantly wet. While most dogwoods prefer slightly acidic soil, cornelian cherry dogwood can do fine even in slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
This plant has average water needs—it will thrive with about 1 inch of water per week in the form of rainfall and/or irrigation. Make sure the moisture penetrates the soil to a depth of about 6 inches. Once established, this type of dogwood is fairly resilient, bouncing back from being flooded during wet spells or parched during drought.
Temperature and Humidity
Rated for USDA zones 4 to 8, cornelian cherry dogwood will survive temperatures down to minus-25 or minus-30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Like most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is best fertilized once in the early spring, then once about three months later. Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the roots. If you have extremely alkaline soil, using an acidifying fertilizer may help.
Pruning Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub tends to form multiple leader stems, and to control the size you'll need to prune away suckers that appear. To train the plant as a small tree, select a main leader as a trunk, then systematically prune away competing shoots. This species also can be readily pruned to maintain as a hedge plant.
The best timing for hard pruning is immediately after the flowers have faded in spring, but be aware that you'll lose the fruits for that season.
Propagating Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
As with most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is most often propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
Snip 3- to 5-inch cuttings from the tips of green stems, then remove the bottom set of leaves. Cut the other leaves in half, but leave them on the cuttings. Dip the cut ends in a rooting compound, then plant the cuttings in small containers filled with a commercial seed-starter mix or a mixture of perlite and sand.
Place the planted cutting inside a large plastic bag, and place the pot in a bright, warm location. Check the cutting weekly to see if roots have developed (you will feel resistance when tugging on the cutting). When a good network of roots has developed (about 6 weeks), remove the plastic bag, and continue growing the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the potting mix moist. At the point where the cutting outgrows its first pot, you can repot it in a container filled with ordinary potting mix. When it outgrows this second pot, it is ready to plant in the landscape. This process may involve growing the rooted cutting indoors over the winter, then transplanting it outdoors the following spring.
Common Pests/ Diseases
When properly grown in the right conditions, this shrub has few disease or pest issues. While it is not immune to the dogwood anthracnose disease that plagues many types of dogwood, this species is decidedly more resistant to that disease.
The easy-care reputation is lost, though, if a cornelian cherry dogwood becomes unhealthy. Stressed plants can be susceptible to borers; and leaf miner, gall midge, and scale may also become more than just cosmetic problems.
Potential disease problems include leaf spot, crown canker, root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf blight. Here, too, it is stressed trees or those planted in less than ideal circumstances that are most vulnerable.
Varieties of Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
For a shrub with variegated leaves, choose the 'Variegata' or `Elegantissima' cultivars.
If you prefer golden leaves, look for 'Aurea'.
Try 'Nana' if you want a plant that only reaches about 3 feet tall.
For yellow fruit rather than red, plant 'Xanthocarpa' or 'Flava'
'Fructu Violaceo' produces purple fruits.
'Alba' has white fruits.
If you live in the Southern United States, 'Spring Glow' is an excellent choice to handle the conditions found there.
‘Golden Glory’ has extra-large flowers and large fruit, with a more upright branching growth habit.
Landscape Uses
Cornelian cherry dogwood is highly prized for its very early spring blooms. It works well as a hedge, screen, or foundation plant, or can be grouped with other shrubs species in a mixed border. It can also be trained as a small specimen tree. Juxtaposed against a dark green woodland background, the yellow blossoms pop with color.
This form of dogwood is a good choice if you want to lure birds, squirrels, and other animals to your garden, as they love the fruit.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月22日
The coral bean shrub (Erythrina herbacea) is easy to grow, grows at a moderate rate, and requires little attention once established. It is attractive and showy with almost year-round interest. The coral bean is adorned with gorgeous ornamental, tubular flowers. In the summer and into the fall, the flowers turn into long pods with brilliant red seeds inside. The foliage of the coral bean is heart-shaped and glossy dark green. The trunk and branches are covered in small curved thorns. The tubular flowers are also highly attractive to hummingbirds drawn to the sweet nectar inside them. Only plant this shrub in the ground in hardiness zone 8 (Pacific Northwest or American South) or higher or else it will die. The best time to plant it is in the spring.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月14日
Rue is a short-lived perennial herb with a small, shrub-like growth habit. It features aromatic, blue-green foliage with a fern-like appearance. And in the summertime, it sports clusters of small yellow flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators to the garden, as well as parasitic wasps. The ornamental herb has a moderate growth rate and should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Be aware that despite their past as a traditional use as a medicinal herb, rue leaves are toxic both to people1 and pets2.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月30日
The flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) is a thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a somewhat messy growth habit but beautiful red, orange, white, or pink flowers to go with shiny, dark green foliage. Related to roses, flowering quince has a thorny habit and easy-to-grow nature that makes it a good choice for barrier or border plantings.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月19日
The popcorn plant is a tall shrub, and in its native African habitat it can grow up to 25 feet in height. When grown as a small shrub in colder climates as an annual, it usually doesn't get taller than 3 feet. The plant's common name comes, in part, from its distinctive scent, said to be uncannily like buttered popcorn. The smell comes not from the bright yellow flowers (which also look a bit like popped popcorn), but from the small oval leaves. The leaves grow to about 3 inches long in pairs up and down the stem. The plant is popular with children for its recognizable scent that must be coaxed by touching the leaves. However, since the plant is poisonous if ingested, it's best not to have it in reach of small children or curious pets.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月29日
Cape honeysuckle flowers are a blazing orange hue, sure to brighten up your tropical garden. It is used as either a shrub or liana and its color and sweet nectar attract hummingbirds. Not only is it versatile in looks, but it also is easy to maintain, making it a perfect idea for a splash of uniqueness in your garden.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月13日
The camellia is a flowering shrub cultivated for more than 1,000 years and is the southern U.S. answer to the peony. Similarities between peonies and camellias include lushly petaled blooms and a tendency to live for more than a century. They live so long because they grow slowly. Camellias are part of the Theaceae or tea plant family, including the most common ornamental species, C. japonica and C. sasanqua. Camellia sinensis yields flowers that produce tea, but it is not as ornamental. They can be planted anytime except for the hottest summer months.
Camellias are evergreens with dark, glossy leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, red, or streaked, and blooms can be single or double. It is popularly used in shrub borders, backgrounds, and loose hedges. Camellia can be used as an espalier specimen—training the shrub to grow flat against a fence or wall. Camellias stand for faithfulness and longevity in the language of flowers and are a lush addition to winter wedding floral arrangements.
Although the plant is an indigenous species in the Philippines, the flower became commonly named for Moravian Jesuit priest Brother Josef Kamel, a botanist, pharmacist, and missionary who classified plants in the Philippines.
Botanical Name Camellia spp.
Common Names Camellia
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2 to 12 feet (depending on variety)
Sun Exposure Part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Late fall, winter, and early spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, yellow, or lavender
Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 (USDA); a few varieties hardy in zone 6B
Native Area Japan, China, Korea
Camellia Care
Camellias are best planted in rich, moist soil in a part-shade location. If planting multiple camellia shrubs, space them at least 5 feet apart. They do not like to compete for water and nutrients with trees in close proximity. Know the mature size of your camellia, and plan accordingly if planting close to a window or home foundation. You do not need to amend the backfill soil at planting time, instead, rake compost or well-rotted manure into the top few inches of the soil.
If your camellia develops yellow leaves, inspect the undersides of leaves for tea scale, an insect pest that feeds on leaf juices. Although the leaves will appear yellow on top, the undersides will look white or fuzzy. Treat tea scale with horticultural oil. An iron deficiency can also cause yellow leaves. Test your soil, and feed your camellias with an iron supplement if needed.
Light
Camellias thrive in part shade. Camellia sasanqua cultivars can take more sun than japonica types.
Soil
Camellias require well-drained soil, and an ideal soil pH for camellias is within the 6.0 to 6.5 range. If your soil is dense clay and doesn't drain well, use containers instead. Choose at least an 18-inch container and a rich, loamy potting soil.
Water
Water camellias so that they are consistently moist. Dry periods that occur during bud development result in fewer flowers with a lower petal count. Drought-stressed plants also open the door to spider mite infestation. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and stifle weeds.
Temperature and Humidity
Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, although the fall-blooming ‘Winter’ series and spring-blooming ‘April’ series of camellias are hardy in zone 6B. Gardeners in cold climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting their permanent site in the landscape. A northern-facing planting has an advantage over a warmer southern area. Southern locations may cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak will give cold climate gardeners the best success rate.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilization is essential for a large flower count. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer in July to facilitate petal development. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring to keep foliage dark green and lush. You can also shop for fertilizers designed explicitly for camellias or even an azalea fertilizer.
Camellia Varieties
'April Dawn': Hardy in zone 6; the white flowers are streaked with pink
'Elfin Rose': Pale pink blooms that appear in October and November
'Fragrant Pink': Small pink flower clusters with a sweet fragrance that is especially obvious on warm winter days
'Francis Eugene Phillips': Highly sought after for ornamental fringed foliage and its ruffled pink flowers
'Yuletide': Features red blooms on a compact, four-foot-tall shrub
Pruning should be kept at a minimum with camellias, as it can ruin the shrub's natural shape. Prune camellias after flowering to keep the interior of the shrubs free of dead and non-blooming branches. Remove any branches that droop on the ground.
Propagating Camellias
Camellias can be propagated by seeds, but it can take quite a long time to grow mature plants. It's more common to propagate by layering.
In summer, bend a long stem down to the ground and make an angled nick in it. Loop the stem into the soil, so the wounded area is buried in the ground, and use a rock or stiff wire to hold it in place in the soil. Over the course of a full growing season, a good network of roots should develop from the wound in the buried stem. At this point, you can clip it away from the parent plant and dig up the offspring to move elsewhere.
How to Grow Camellia From Seed
Camellias do not come true from seed, at least, very rarely. Camellia seeds ripen at different times depending on variety and location, but it's usually in the early fall. When seeds are mature, the pod begins to crack slightly and seeds are ready to be picked. If you have seeds, soak the seed for 12 hours or carefully crack the hard coat to aid in germination. Plant in good soil, peat moss, or a combination of peat moss and sand. Keep the soil damp. Seeds usually germinate in one month if planted immediately after harvesting. Some seeds may not germinate until spring. Better germination will occur when seeds are planted immediately upon ripening.
Potting or Repotting Camellias
Once the seeds have germinated, transplant into containers or outside. Cut off the taproot to produce a more fibrous root system. This step is helpful if planting in a container. If planting in a landscape, the taproot will help the plant survive during periods of drought or severe cold.
Overwintering
Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you have camellia in a container and you live in cooler climates, ensure that the soil and root systems are protected from freezing solid. Dry leaves and pine straw can be used as an excellent source of insulation; mound them around and over the top, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by creating a burlap or canvas fence around it. Fill the space with leaves.
Camellias are evergreens with dark, glossy leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, red, or streaked, and blooms can be single or double. It is popularly used in shrub borders, backgrounds, and loose hedges. Camellia can be used as an espalier specimen—training the shrub to grow flat against a fence or wall. Camellias stand for faithfulness and longevity in the language of flowers and are a lush addition to winter wedding floral arrangements.
Although the plant is an indigenous species in the Philippines, the flower became commonly named for Moravian Jesuit priest Brother Josef Kamel, a botanist, pharmacist, and missionary who classified plants in the Philippines.
Botanical Name Camellia spp.
Common Names Camellia
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2 to 12 feet (depending on variety)
Sun Exposure Part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Late fall, winter, and early spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, yellow, or lavender
Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 (USDA); a few varieties hardy in zone 6B
Native Area Japan, China, Korea
Camellia Care
Camellias are best planted in rich, moist soil in a part-shade location. If planting multiple camellia shrubs, space them at least 5 feet apart. They do not like to compete for water and nutrients with trees in close proximity. Know the mature size of your camellia, and plan accordingly if planting close to a window or home foundation. You do not need to amend the backfill soil at planting time, instead, rake compost or well-rotted manure into the top few inches of the soil.
If your camellia develops yellow leaves, inspect the undersides of leaves for tea scale, an insect pest that feeds on leaf juices. Although the leaves will appear yellow on top, the undersides will look white or fuzzy. Treat tea scale with horticultural oil. An iron deficiency can also cause yellow leaves. Test your soil, and feed your camellias with an iron supplement if needed.
Light
Camellias thrive in part shade. Camellia sasanqua cultivars can take more sun than japonica types.
Soil
Camellias require well-drained soil, and an ideal soil pH for camellias is within the 6.0 to 6.5 range. If your soil is dense clay and doesn't drain well, use containers instead. Choose at least an 18-inch container and a rich, loamy potting soil.
Water
Water camellias so that they are consistently moist. Dry periods that occur during bud development result in fewer flowers with a lower petal count. Drought-stressed plants also open the door to spider mite infestation. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and stifle weeds.
Temperature and Humidity
Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, although the fall-blooming ‘Winter’ series and spring-blooming ‘April’ series of camellias are hardy in zone 6B. Gardeners in cold climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting their permanent site in the landscape. A northern-facing planting has an advantage over a warmer southern area. Southern locations may cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak will give cold climate gardeners the best success rate.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilization is essential for a large flower count. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer in July to facilitate petal development. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring to keep foliage dark green and lush. You can also shop for fertilizers designed explicitly for camellias or even an azalea fertilizer.
Camellia Varieties
'April Dawn': Hardy in zone 6; the white flowers are streaked with pink
'Elfin Rose': Pale pink blooms that appear in October and November
'Fragrant Pink': Small pink flower clusters with a sweet fragrance that is especially obvious on warm winter days
'Francis Eugene Phillips': Highly sought after for ornamental fringed foliage and its ruffled pink flowers
'Yuletide': Features red blooms on a compact, four-foot-tall shrub
Pruning should be kept at a minimum with camellias, as it can ruin the shrub's natural shape. Prune camellias after flowering to keep the interior of the shrubs free of dead and non-blooming branches. Remove any branches that droop on the ground.
Propagating Camellias
Camellias can be propagated by seeds, but it can take quite a long time to grow mature plants. It's more common to propagate by layering.
In summer, bend a long stem down to the ground and make an angled nick in it. Loop the stem into the soil, so the wounded area is buried in the ground, and use a rock or stiff wire to hold it in place in the soil. Over the course of a full growing season, a good network of roots should develop from the wound in the buried stem. At this point, you can clip it away from the parent plant and dig up the offspring to move elsewhere.
How to Grow Camellia From Seed
Camellias do not come true from seed, at least, very rarely. Camellia seeds ripen at different times depending on variety and location, but it's usually in the early fall. When seeds are mature, the pod begins to crack slightly and seeds are ready to be picked. If you have seeds, soak the seed for 12 hours or carefully crack the hard coat to aid in germination. Plant in good soil, peat moss, or a combination of peat moss and sand. Keep the soil damp. Seeds usually germinate in one month if planted immediately after harvesting. Some seeds may not germinate until spring. Better germination will occur when seeds are planted immediately upon ripening.
Potting or Repotting Camellias
Once the seeds have germinated, transplant into containers or outside. Cut off the taproot to produce a more fibrous root system. This step is helpful if planting in a container. If planting in a landscape, the taproot will help the plant survive during periods of drought or severe cold.
Overwintering
Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you have camellia in a container and you live in cooler climates, ensure that the soil and root systems are protected from freezing solid. Dry leaves and pine straw can be used as an excellent source of insulation; mound them around and over the top, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by creating a burlap or canvas fence around it. Fill the space with leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月19日
The Buttercup Winter Hazel is a medium-sized deciduous shrub in the witch hazel family that is a native of Japan. It grows no higher than six feet tall with a spreading form that fills out to a branchy width that is as wide as it is tall. The foliage is not particularly spectacular in the spring and summer, and can often be lost in these seasons, though it does provide an excellent nesting habitat for birds and small mammals. It is in the fall and especially the winter, as its common name suggests, that the species truly shines. In the fall the leaves turn bright fiery yellow that is much brighter in color than the muted yellow that will be on display later. These fall leaves shed to make way for ghostly gray branches that will. for a short time, exhibit no sign of life at all. That is when the show begins.
Depending on how mild a winter you experienced, new growth will start to develop along the branches of the Buttercup Winter Hazel in the form of reddish flower buds. Soon, these burst open and reveal a pendulous cluster of translucent buttercup-shaped and colored flowers. These pale-yellow little flowers will linger for a few weeks to a few months, depending on the weather. While in bloom, be sure to take advantage of their lovely fragrance as much as possible, too.
As the weather warms and other plants soon start to show signs of life, the Buttercup Winter Hazel will continue to be of interest. You will notice the plant’s blossoms wilting and falling off and new leaf buds forming. The spring beckoning flowers will make way for the leaf buds. Shoots that appear as green growth emerge, and the other plants around the Buttercup Winter Hazel enter the limelight to a much more crowded spring stage.
Botanical Name Corylopsis pauciflora
Common Name Buttercup Winter Hazel
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Tall 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Wide
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Type Rich, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late Winter- Early Spring
Flower Color Pale Yellow
Hardiness Zone 6 to 8, USA
Native Range Japan, Taiwan
Winter Hazel Care
Picking the perfect place for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is important. Aesthetically, this is a gorgeous plant on its own, there is no doubt about it. Adding elements can and will highlight and add to its features by using a few things to enhance the beauty that is already there.
First, consider selecting a place to take advantage of its translucent flowers. With the sun shining through the blossoms, it will almost create a yellow stained-glass effect. For this, you want a low sun angle.
Second, consider color theory and negative space. Remember during the fall, winter, and early spring, you will have yellow branches. Consider backdropping the shrub with a conifer to give the colors a boost and to work the lighter colored bones of the Buttercup Winter Hazel against the darker conifer. Finally, think about putting some colorful winter blooming herbaceous flowers under the Buttercup Winter Hazel such as Hellebore, Snowdrops, or Winter Aconite.
When you have found a visually appealing place, it is time to get planting. It will be a good idea to test the soil before planting. You can add any amendments now if the soil is deficient or in need of some help.
Planting your Buttercup Winter Hazel will be done as usual for a shrubby tree. Dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball. Add compost to the hole, then place the plant so that the root ball is even with the soil line. Fill in the hole with a mix of compost, the soil you removed, a few heaping handfuls of perlite, and then cover with mulch to the drip line. You will want to water your plant weekly, deeply, and thoroughly for the first growing season. Once your Buttercup Winter Hazel is established, enjoy the hope it instills every year with the beautiful smells it unleashes into the crisp winter air.v
Light
Planting the Buttercup Winter Hazel in full sun to part shade will help your plant thrive. More sun will increase the number of blooms on your shrub. As stated above, consider using the sun as a design element when placing the tree in your landscape.
Soil
The ideal soil for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is acidic, light, organically rich, and well-drained, not compact. It does not tolerate heavy, compact clay soil.
Water
Once established, watering the Buttercup Winter Hazel can be left to nature unless you live in an especially dry area, or you are experiencing a drought.
Temperature and Humidity
The Winter Hazel is hardy to Zones 6 to 8. Flower buds can be damaged from early spring frosts. The shrub is also susceptible to damage from high winds. Placing the shrub in a sheltered area can help it thrive.
Fertilizer
Yearly feeding can help with flower production. The Buttercup Winter Hazel enjoys acidic soils, so testing the soil pH yearly to see what fertilizer will be most beneficiall should be a priority. Prune the shrub immediately after flowering in the spring.
Depending on how mild a winter you experienced, new growth will start to develop along the branches of the Buttercup Winter Hazel in the form of reddish flower buds. Soon, these burst open and reveal a pendulous cluster of translucent buttercup-shaped and colored flowers. These pale-yellow little flowers will linger for a few weeks to a few months, depending on the weather. While in bloom, be sure to take advantage of their lovely fragrance as much as possible, too.
As the weather warms and other plants soon start to show signs of life, the Buttercup Winter Hazel will continue to be of interest. You will notice the plant’s blossoms wilting and falling off and new leaf buds forming. The spring beckoning flowers will make way for the leaf buds. Shoots that appear as green growth emerge, and the other plants around the Buttercup Winter Hazel enter the limelight to a much more crowded spring stage.
Botanical Name Corylopsis pauciflora
Common Name Buttercup Winter Hazel
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Tall 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Wide
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Type Rich, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late Winter- Early Spring
Flower Color Pale Yellow
Hardiness Zone 6 to 8, USA
Native Range Japan, Taiwan
Winter Hazel Care
Picking the perfect place for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is important. Aesthetically, this is a gorgeous plant on its own, there is no doubt about it. Adding elements can and will highlight and add to its features by using a few things to enhance the beauty that is already there.
First, consider selecting a place to take advantage of its translucent flowers. With the sun shining through the blossoms, it will almost create a yellow stained-glass effect. For this, you want a low sun angle.
Second, consider color theory and negative space. Remember during the fall, winter, and early spring, you will have yellow branches. Consider backdropping the shrub with a conifer to give the colors a boost and to work the lighter colored bones of the Buttercup Winter Hazel against the darker conifer. Finally, think about putting some colorful winter blooming herbaceous flowers under the Buttercup Winter Hazel such as Hellebore, Snowdrops, or Winter Aconite.
When you have found a visually appealing place, it is time to get planting. It will be a good idea to test the soil before planting. You can add any amendments now if the soil is deficient or in need of some help.
Planting your Buttercup Winter Hazel will be done as usual for a shrubby tree. Dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball. Add compost to the hole, then place the plant so that the root ball is even with the soil line. Fill in the hole with a mix of compost, the soil you removed, a few heaping handfuls of perlite, and then cover with mulch to the drip line. You will want to water your plant weekly, deeply, and thoroughly for the first growing season. Once your Buttercup Winter Hazel is established, enjoy the hope it instills every year with the beautiful smells it unleashes into the crisp winter air.v
Light
Planting the Buttercup Winter Hazel in full sun to part shade will help your plant thrive. More sun will increase the number of blooms on your shrub. As stated above, consider using the sun as a design element when placing the tree in your landscape.
Soil
The ideal soil for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is acidic, light, organically rich, and well-drained, not compact. It does not tolerate heavy, compact clay soil.
Water
Once established, watering the Buttercup Winter Hazel can be left to nature unless you live in an especially dry area, or you are experiencing a drought.
Temperature and Humidity
The Winter Hazel is hardy to Zones 6 to 8. Flower buds can be damaged from early spring frosts. The shrub is also susceptible to damage from high winds. Placing the shrub in a sheltered area can help it thrive.
Fertilizer
Yearly feeding can help with flower production. The Buttercup Winter Hazel enjoys acidic soils, so testing the soil pH yearly to see what fertilizer will be most beneficiall should be a priority. Prune the shrub immediately after flowering in the spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月01日
The show-stopping hanging bugle-shaped flowers of brugmansia make this plant a delight for any garden. Grown either as a woody shrub or small tree, brugmansia is a tropical plant native to Central and South America. Brugmansia is best planted in mid-spring when temperatures outdoors no longer drop below 50 degrees at night. The plant will grow very quickly, often growing between 24 to 36 inches a year. All parts of the brugmansia plant are toxic to humans, dogs, and cats.1 It is also an invasive plant in Australia, New Zealand, Central America, the Caribbean, and the Pacific Islands.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月26日
The bridal wreath spirea (Spirae aprunifolia) is a medium-sized deciduous shrub with an upright arching habit, featuring thick sprays of white double flowers that create a focal point in the landscape. Fully hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5-9, this is an easy-to-grow shrub that, once established, requires little care.
The Spiraea genus is found within the Rosaceae family of plants, and it bears some similarity to rose bushes, especially the shape of the leaves and the spiny stems. The species name, prunifolia, indicates that the leaves are similar to those of Prunus, the group that contains many of the familiar stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and peaches.
In spring blooming season, bridal wreath spireas create a cascading waterfall of white, with clusters of small white flowers that bloom all the way down the arching branches. Each leaf is 1- to 3-inches long with an ovate or elliptical shape. The spring flower display is followed by another show in the fall when the leaves turn to hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Spirea is a fast-growing shrub, and within a single growing season, it usually achieves full size. Like most shrubs, bridal wreath spirea is best planted early in the growing season, which will allow the shrub's root system plenty of time to become established before winter. If you must plant in the fall (this sometimes is when nurseries are discounting available stock), try to do it with enough time so the shrub's roots can settle in and begin growing before winter weather sets in.
Botanical Name Spiraea prunifolia
Common Name Spirea, bridal wreath, bridal veil spirea
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 4-8 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Early spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5-9, (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, and Taiwan
Bridal Wreath Spirea Care
This shrub is very easy to grow in any average soil in a full sun location. It will tolerate some shade, and once established, it has a decent tolerance for occasional drought. Like most shrubs, it should be planted in a carefully prepared hole, at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. If planting in a row or mass, space the plant at least 3-feet apart, or 4- to 6-feet apart for a looser mass.
Bridal wreath spirea makes a great specimen plant, or it can be planted as a hedge or in masses as a screening plant. It also works well in foundation plantings. It is excellent when planted in the sunny margins abutting woodland areas, similar to the way azaleas are often used.
The bridal wreath spirea attracts butterflies, but its prickly stems repel grazing by deer. Make sure to plant this shrub where it will not scratch human passers-by—unless you are planting it to discourage intruders.
There are no serious pest or disease problems for the bridal wreath spirea, but they can be susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family. This includes leaf spot, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, aphids, leaf roller, and scale.
Some varieties of spirea can escape gardens and become invasive in parts of the U.S., so before planting, check with your local extension office agent.1
Learn About Gold Mound Spirea
Light
This shrub will do best in a spot in your garden that receives full sun; it will tolerate part shade, though with slightly reduced flowering. When planting young bridal wreath spirea shrubs, make sure to provide plenty of room between them: They will grow and can block each other's light if planted too close together.
Soil
This plant is not picky about the soil it's planted in, and can thrive in clay, loam, and even acidic soils. Its biggest need is soil that's well-draining, so the roots never sit in water.
Water
Bridal wreath spirea prefers to grow in well-drained moist soil, though it is able to withstand some periods of drought. Water the plants once a week during the summer whenever rainfall is less than 1 inch. Keep the plants well-watered as they are becoming established.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant is quite hardy, surviving both cold winter and hot summer temperatures in its defined range. It thrives in any climate conditions within its hardiness zones (5-9).
Fertilizer
Every spring, add a 2-inch layer of compost over the soil under the shrub. This is usually sufficient to feed the plant, and it will also help to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties
‘Fire Light’ has pink flowers that show in summer, and fiery red fall color.
‘Anthony Waterer’ boasts carmine-red flowers and purple fall foliage.
‘Tor’ features tiny white flowers and dark green oval leaves that turn orange, red, and purple in fall.
‘Snowmound’ offers white flowers, attractive arching stems, and dark, blue-green foliage.
Pruning
This plant tends to spread through suckering, so ground suckers will need to be trimmed off if you want to keep the shrubs confined.
If desired, the shrubs can be pruned for shape or size immediately after the spring flowering period. Always use a clean, sharp gardening shear. A good pruning routine is to remove all dead wood, as well as some of the oldest stems all the way to ground level. This will open up the center of the shrub to sunlight, which will reinvigorate it. Tips of branches can also be trimmed to control the size of the shrub.
Propagating Bridal Wreath Spirea
The best way to propagate bridal wreath spirea shrubs is by rooting softwood cuttings. To do so, cut segments of flexible stem tips 6- to 8-inches long. Remove the bottom leaves from these trimmed segments. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone.
Fill a 6-inch pot with moist potting mix, then plant four or five prepared stems around the inner edge of the pot, embedding the exposed nodes into the potting mix. Cover the pot with a large plastic bag and seal it. Place the pot in a dappled shade location and allow the cuttings to root over the next few weeks. Check periodically to make sure the potting mix remains moist.
After about four weeks, you should see new, green growth on the stems, indicating that roots are forming. At this point, repot the cuttings into their own individual containers, then tuck the pots into a sheltered location and allow them to continue growing until they go dormant in winter. The next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings into the garden.
The Spiraea genus is found within the Rosaceae family of plants, and it bears some similarity to rose bushes, especially the shape of the leaves and the spiny stems. The species name, prunifolia, indicates that the leaves are similar to those of Prunus, the group that contains many of the familiar stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and peaches.
In spring blooming season, bridal wreath spireas create a cascading waterfall of white, with clusters of small white flowers that bloom all the way down the arching branches. Each leaf is 1- to 3-inches long with an ovate or elliptical shape. The spring flower display is followed by another show in the fall when the leaves turn to hues of red, orange, and yellow.
Spirea is a fast-growing shrub, and within a single growing season, it usually achieves full size. Like most shrubs, bridal wreath spirea is best planted early in the growing season, which will allow the shrub's root system plenty of time to become established before winter. If you must plant in the fall (this sometimes is when nurseries are discounting available stock), try to do it with enough time so the shrub's roots can settle in and begin growing before winter weather sets in.
Botanical Name Spiraea prunifolia
Common Name Spirea, bridal wreath, bridal veil spirea
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 4-8 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Early spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5-9, (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, and Taiwan
Bridal Wreath Spirea Care
This shrub is very easy to grow in any average soil in a full sun location. It will tolerate some shade, and once established, it has a decent tolerance for occasional drought. Like most shrubs, it should be planted in a carefully prepared hole, at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. If planting in a row or mass, space the plant at least 3-feet apart, or 4- to 6-feet apart for a looser mass.
Bridal wreath spirea makes a great specimen plant, or it can be planted as a hedge or in masses as a screening plant. It also works well in foundation plantings. It is excellent when planted in the sunny margins abutting woodland areas, similar to the way azaleas are often used.
The bridal wreath spirea attracts butterflies, but its prickly stems repel grazing by deer. Make sure to plant this shrub where it will not scratch human passers-by—unless you are planting it to discourage intruders.
There are no serious pest or disease problems for the bridal wreath spirea, but they can be susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family. This includes leaf spot, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, aphids, leaf roller, and scale.
Some varieties of spirea can escape gardens and become invasive in parts of the U.S., so before planting, check with your local extension office agent.1
Learn About Gold Mound Spirea
Light
This shrub will do best in a spot in your garden that receives full sun; it will tolerate part shade, though with slightly reduced flowering. When planting young bridal wreath spirea shrubs, make sure to provide plenty of room between them: They will grow and can block each other's light if planted too close together.
Soil
This plant is not picky about the soil it's planted in, and can thrive in clay, loam, and even acidic soils. Its biggest need is soil that's well-draining, so the roots never sit in water.
Water
Bridal wreath spirea prefers to grow in well-drained moist soil, though it is able to withstand some periods of drought. Water the plants once a week during the summer whenever rainfall is less than 1 inch. Keep the plants well-watered as they are becoming established.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant is quite hardy, surviving both cold winter and hot summer temperatures in its defined range. It thrives in any climate conditions within its hardiness zones (5-9).
Fertilizer
Every spring, add a 2-inch layer of compost over the soil under the shrub. This is usually sufficient to feed the plant, and it will also help to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties
‘Fire Light’ has pink flowers that show in summer, and fiery red fall color.
‘Anthony Waterer’ boasts carmine-red flowers and purple fall foliage.
‘Tor’ features tiny white flowers and dark green oval leaves that turn orange, red, and purple in fall.
‘Snowmound’ offers white flowers, attractive arching stems, and dark, blue-green foliage.
Pruning
This plant tends to spread through suckering, so ground suckers will need to be trimmed off if you want to keep the shrubs confined.
If desired, the shrubs can be pruned for shape or size immediately after the spring flowering period. Always use a clean, sharp gardening shear. A good pruning routine is to remove all dead wood, as well as some of the oldest stems all the way to ground level. This will open up the center of the shrub to sunlight, which will reinvigorate it. Tips of branches can also be trimmed to control the size of the shrub.
Propagating Bridal Wreath Spirea
The best way to propagate bridal wreath spirea shrubs is by rooting softwood cuttings. To do so, cut segments of flexible stem tips 6- to 8-inches long. Remove the bottom leaves from these trimmed segments. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone.
Fill a 6-inch pot with moist potting mix, then plant four or five prepared stems around the inner edge of the pot, embedding the exposed nodes into the potting mix. Cover the pot with a large plastic bag and seal it. Place the pot in a dappled shade location and allow the cuttings to root over the next few weeks. Check periodically to make sure the potting mix remains moist.
After about four weeks, you should see new, green growth on the stems, indicating that roots are forming. At this point, repot the cuttings into their own individual containers, then tuck the pots into a sheltered location and allow them to continue growing until they go dormant in winter. The next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings into the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月18日
Bougainvillea is not your typical houseplant—in its natural state, it's a sprawling climber and shrub with formidable thorns, often found on the exterior of buildings (like climbing up a trellis or over a fence) or in gardens in subtropical-to-tropical climates. Native to South America, bougainvillea was named in honor of Louis Antoine de Bougainville, a sailor and explorer during the late 1700s. Best planted in the spring, bougainvillea is a quick grower, often adding more than 36 inches in length per year. It's known for its green foliage and vibrant pink, purple, and orange hues that most people assume are the plant's flowers—however, they're actually petal-like bracts that hide bougainvillea's true blooms, which are typically small white or yellow buds.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月20日
The American elderberry, sometimes known as the common elderberry, is a deciduous shrub with bright white flowers and small, dark berries. Known by many different names, including black elderberry and American black elderberry, this shrub makes a lovely addition to any garden or landscape thanks to its lush green leaves, sprays of flowers, and edible fruits. Native to North America, the American elderberry is also known for its culinary qualities—elderberry fruits can be eaten and cooked with, but only when they are fully ripened.
Best planted in early spring after the final frost, American elderberry is a moderately-fast growing bush that can reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across once mature. It can be planted outdoors successfully in USDA zones 3 through 9 and harvested once the berries are dark purple or black, typically in August or September.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name Common elderberry, black elderberry, American elderberry
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 5–12 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral but acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry is an easy-to-care-for shrub that can tolerate a variety of different growing conditions ranging from wet soil and rocky terrain to bright sun and lots of shade. The one thing they do need is plenty of water. Enough H2O will ensure that your plant not only thrives and grows but produces lots of berries.
For the first few years of growing American elderberry, just focus on allowing your bush to get established. Do the bare minimum when it comes to pruning your shrub and check it for invasive weeds (a common problem for the shallow-rooted plant) periodically. Don't expect to reap any huge berry harvests, either—you likely won't get a worthwhile harvest until your second or third year.
The berries are quite sour on their own, so if you opt to make them into a jam or pie, you'll want to use lots of sugar. Additionally, the small white flowers on the plant, which form in a cluster called a cyme, can be used to make wine, cordials, and syrups.
Light
American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade.
Soil
For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn't prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely.
Water
When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant's roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it's a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry isn't picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it's a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain!
Fertilizer
While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn't totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there aren't too many problems that arise when growing American elderberry, you may end up dealing with familiar issues such as aphids, mealybug, elder shoot borer, and scale. Additionally, American elderberry can be susceptible to a variety of diseases, including canker, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Weeds are actually the most dangerous risk to the plant—gone untreated, they can easily choke out its shallow roots. Clear the soil frequently of any weeds you notice encroaching on your elderberry shrubs.
Best planted in early spring after the final frost, American elderberry is a moderately-fast growing bush that can reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across once mature. It can be planted outdoors successfully in USDA zones 3 through 9 and harvested once the berries are dark purple or black, typically in August or September.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name Common elderberry, black elderberry, American elderberry
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 5–12 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral but acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry is an easy-to-care-for shrub that can tolerate a variety of different growing conditions ranging from wet soil and rocky terrain to bright sun and lots of shade. The one thing they do need is plenty of water. Enough H2O will ensure that your plant not only thrives and grows but produces lots of berries.
For the first few years of growing American elderberry, just focus on allowing your bush to get established. Do the bare minimum when it comes to pruning your shrub and check it for invasive weeds (a common problem for the shallow-rooted plant) periodically. Don't expect to reap any huge berry harvests, either—you likely won't get a worthwhile harvest until your second or third year.
The berries are quite sour on their own, so if you opt to make them into a jam or pie, you'll want to use lots of sugar. Additionally, the small white flowers on the plant, which form in a cluster called a cyme, can be used to make wine, cordials, and syrups.
Light
American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade.
Soil
For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn't prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely.
Water
When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant's roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it's a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry isn't picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it's a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain!
Fertilizer
While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn't totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there aren't too many problems that arise when growing American elderberry, you may end up dealing with familiar issues such as aphids, mealybug, elder shoot borer, and scale. Additionally, American elderberry can be susceptible to a variety of diseases, including canker, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Weeds are actually the most dangerous risk to the plant—gone untreated, they can easily choke out its shallow roots. Clear the soil frequently of any weeds you notice encroaching on your elderberry shrubs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
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