文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is a broad leaf evergreen that grows and flowers well in full sun to part shade, making it a versatile shrub in the landscape. The broad, dark green leaves provide interest all year long. In spring clusters of cup-shaped flowers open in shade of white, pink and red. It’s a favorite of bees and butterflies.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Hypericum is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. All members of the genus may be referred to as St. John’s Wort. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s Wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Common St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) has been used as an herbal remedy for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties since the Middle Ages. Many ancient herbalists, including Hippocrates and Pliny, recorded the medicinal properties of St. John’s wort.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St. John’s Wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s Wort. Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control.
Common St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) has been used as an herbal remedy for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties since the Middle Ages. Many ancient herbalists, including Hippocrates and Pliny, recorded the medicinal properties of St. John’s wort.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St. John’s Wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s Wort. Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Pieris japonica is a species of fantastic evergreen spring shrub which put on a spectacular display of white or pink, bell-shaped flowers and colorful new growth which ranges from pale pink to dark burgundy. It is a member of the Heath family and is originally from the forested mountain regions of China, Japan and Taiwan, and often called Lily of the Valley Bush, Japanese Pieris or Japanese Andromeda. It is a shrubs or small tree which in the wild can reach up to 33 feet (10 m), but the cultivated varieties available from garden centers are more likely to be small and compact or just reaching a height of up to 13 feet (4 m). They are fairly slow growing so even if you buy one of the larger varieties they will probably take up to 20 years to reach their maximum height. They are toxic to people and animals so make sure they are planted in a position where farm stock cannot reach them. They go well with other ericaceous woodland plants such as Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, as they all enjoy the same conditions.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Amborella trichopoda Baill.
Scientific Classification
Family: Amborellaceae
Genus: Amborella
Flower
Color: Creamy white
Bloom Time: March to May
Description
Amborella trichopoda is a small, tropical sprawling shrub or small tree, up to 26 feet (8 m) high, endemic to New Caledonia. It is the only species in the genus Amborella, which is the only member of the family Amborellaceae. The evergreen leaves are small, white to yellow and up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The small, creamy white, inconspicuous flowers are arranged in terminal inflorescences of 2 to 30 flowers, up to 0.16 inches (4 mm) in diameter, with 7 or 8 tepals.
Amborella – Record of the Evolution of Flowering Plants
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia. Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae. It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants. This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages. However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages. Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Origin
Endemic to the main island Grande Terre of New Caledonia.
Amborella trichopoda Baill.
Scientific Classification
Family: Amborellaceae
Genus: Amborella
Flower
Color: Creamy white
Bloom Time: March to May
Description
Amborella trichopoda is a small, tropical sprawling shrub or small tree, up to 26 feet (8 m) high, endemic to New Caledonia. It is the only species in the genus Amborella, which is the only member of the family Amborellaceae. The evergreen leaves are small, white to yellow and up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The small, creamy white, inconspicuous flowers are arranged in terminal inflorescences of 2 to 30 flowers, up to 0.16 inches (4 mm) in diameter, with 7 or 8 tepals.
Amborella – Record of the Evolution of Flowering Plants
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia. Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae. It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants. This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages. However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages. Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Origin
Endemic to the main island Grande Terre of New Caledonia.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well known is the Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates it grows into a shrub. Many other Crassula species are much smaller. Some are miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder “What is that?” With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Originally from Africa, the Jade Tree (Crassula ovata) is a fleshy, softly woody shrub or small tree up to 10 feet (3 m). The Jade Tree has a thick trunk and a fine branch structure with thick oval green succulent leaves. During autumn sometimes small white flowers appear, but only when the tree has experienced droughts in the season. The bark is green and soft when young, becoming red-brown when it ages.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Uncarina is a genus of plant in family Pedaliaceae. Originating in Madagascar, the deciduous shrub may sometimes be considered a small tree as it grows to 25 feet (7.6 m) tall. Leaves are oval and green and flowers bell-shaped and tubular. Uncarina blooms easily, and when covered with flowers, it is a striking vision. The seed capsules feature small hooked harpoons.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents don’t always fare well when exposed to the hot sun day in and day out. In nature, succulents often grow under or near a shrub or tree where they receive bright light but not constant direct sunlight. Don’t automatically plant your succulent smack-dab in the middle of the garden, where it receives endless hours of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Instead, carefully select its growing location where your succulent will receive enough sunlight, but not too much.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Leaf scorch may occur on any species of tree or shrub as well as herbaceous plants. It is a widespread noninfectious disease or disorder. Scorch most often occurs following prolonged periods of dry, windy weather or bright sunshine when the roots are unable to supply water to the foliage as rapidly as it is lost by transpiration from the leaves. Unfavorable locations, such as sandy or gravelly soil, near obstructions or pavement that restrict root growth, or exposed windy slopes usually promote scorch. Anything that affects the plant’s ability to take up water, including insect and disease problems, can result in leaf scorch. Herbicides and pesticides may also contribute to scorch. Do not spray on windy days to eliminate drift problems and do not allow mist to settle onto trees.
In mild cases of leaf scorch, the leaves remain attached, and little damage results. In more severe cases, plants may drop many of their leaves prematurely, although such plants do not die. Where leaf scorch occurs each year, such annual stress will gradually weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to insects and diseases.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Browning of leaf margins and/or yellowing or darkening of the areas between the main leaf veins are symptoms of leaf scorch. Due to environmental causes, leaves may dry, turn brown, and become brittle. Look for damage to trees and shrubs on the upper portion on the sunny, southern side and on the windy side. Premature dropping of leaves and twig dieback may occur during the late summer. Symptoms usually appear after drying winds in conjunction with periods of hot, dry weather.
Leaf scorch on narrow leaf evergreens appears as brown or purple brown discoloration of the needle tips. If unfavorable conditions become more severe, browning of needles increases. This should not be confused with the browning and shedding of older interior needles. Scorch may result from hot, dry weather in summer or from strong, dry winter winds when the ground is frozen. Symptoms may not become apparent for a month or more after the initial injury.
Winter leaf scorch in evergreen plants usually appears as two long, brown areas paralleling the main leaf vein.
Life Cycle
Although plants can experience scorch with no insects or disease pathogens involved, insect and disease damage can also affect the plant’s uptake of water. In some cases, insect damage such as leafhopper (hopper burn) or specific scorch diseases caused by fungi or bacteria can produce similar symptoms. Scorch can also reduce the health of a plant making it more susceptible to attack by insects and diseases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1.Water when needed and maintain plant vigor. Plant in a fertile, well-drained soil at the same depth the plants grew in at the nursery and with an adequate supply of organic matter. Soil should be moist to a depth of 10 to 12 inches after a thorough watering. This should be done about once weekly. It is very important for the trees, especially broadleaf and needled evergreens, to be well watered going into the winter period. Water during this period if seasonal rains are not adequate or during the winter when the soil is not frozen. Annuals and perennials require more frequent watering than most trees and shrubs.
2. Fertilize. Fertilize plants in early spring based on a soil test and the directions printed on the fertilizer container. Nitrogen should be applied annually based on the area to be fertilized, the type of plant, and the diameter of the trunk. Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the late fall as it may cause new soft growth easily damaged by cold weather.
3. Mulch. Organic mulches (pine needles, wood chips, composted leaves, pine bark, cypress mulch) can help retain moisture during the summer and fall droughts. In the winter this mulch prevents the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Mulch will also cool the soil in summer.
4. Screens. Screens may be used to protect trees and plants in areas exposed to wind and sun, but it is best not to plant tender plants in these exposures.
5. Exposure. Other factors which can result in scorch are excessive fertilizer, deicing salt, herbicide, dog urine, trash fires, leaking sewer or gas mains, girdling roots or strangling wires, vehicle exhaust, and heat reflected from buildings. Elimination of the exposure to these elements is the only correction.
6. Physical hazards. Avoid root injury when digging near trees and shrubs. Care should be taken to not injure the bark and roots when using lawnmowers, weed whips, and edging tools.
In mild cases of leaf scorch, the leaves remain attached, and little damage results. In more severe cases, plants may drop many of their leaves prematurely, although such plants do not die. Where leaf scorch occurs each year, such annual stress will gradually weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to insects and diseases.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Browning of leaf margins and/or yellowing or darkening of the areas between the main leaf veins are symptoms of leaf scorch. Due to environmental causes, leaves may dry, turn brown, and become brittle. Look for damage to trees and shrubs on the upper portion on the sunny, southern side and on the windy side. Premature dropping of leaves and twig dieback may occur during the late summer. Symptoms usually appear after drying winds in conjunction with periods of hot, dry weather.
Leaf scorch on narrow leaf evergreens appears as brown or purple brown discoloration of the needle tips. If unfavorable conditions become more severe, browning of needles increases. This should not be confused with the browning and shedding of older interior needles. Scorch may result from hot, dry weather in summer or from strong, dry winter winds when the ground is frozen. Symptoms may not become apparent for a month or more after the initial injury.
Winter leaf scorch in evergreen plants usually appears as two long, brown areas paralleling the main leaf vein.
Life Cycle
Although plants can experience scorch with no insects or disease pathogens involved, insect and disease damage can also affect the plant’s uptake of water. In some cases, insect damage such as leafhopper (hopper burn) or specific scorch diseases caused by fungi or bacteria can produce similar symptoms. Scorch can also reduce the health of a plant making it more susceptible to attack by insects and diseases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1.Water when needed and maintain plant vigor. Plant in a fertile, well-drained soil at the same depth the plants grew in at the nursery and with an adequate supply of organic matter. Soil should be moist to a depth of 10 to 12 inches after a thorough watering. This should be done about once weekly. It is very important for the trees, especially broadleaf and needled evergreens, to be well watered going into the winter period. Water during this period if seasonal rains are not adequate or during the winter when the soil is not frozen. Annuals and perennials require more frequent watering than most trees and shrubs.
2. Fertilize. Fertilize plants in early spring based on a soil test and the directions printed on the fertilizer container. Nitrogen should be applied annually based on the area to be fertilized, the type of plant, and the diameter of the trunk. Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the late fall as it may cause new soft growth easily damaged by cold weather.
3. Mulch. Organic mulches (pine needles, wood chips, composted leaves, pine bark, cypress mulch) can help retain moisture during the summer and fall droughts. In the winter this mulch prevents the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Mulch will also cool the soil in summer.
4. Screens. Screens may be used to protect trees and plants in areas exposed to wind and sun, but it is best not to plant tender plants in these exposures.
5. Exposure. Other factors which can result in scorch are excessive fertilizer, deicing salt, herbicide, dog urine, trash fires, leaking sewer or gas mains, girdling roots or strangling wires, vehicle exhaust, and heat reflected from buildings. Elimination of the exposure to these elements is the only correction.
6. Physical hazards. Avoid root injury when digging near trees and shrubs. Care should be taken to not injure the bark and roots when using lawnmowers, weed whips, and edging tools.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Emerald cedar (more properly termed "arborvitae") is a highly useful tall shrub or small tree, but homeowners and businesses who plant it frequently experience the problem of having its leaves turn brown. Insects, diseases, or even dog urine can be the sources of the problem if the leaves are turning brown in summer, as well as a more obvious potential culprit: namely, drought.
Many people have asked me to address this issue.
Arborvitae is widely planted in highly visible hedges and foundation plantings, where brown leaves will stick out like a sore thumb and create an eyesore. I was finally inspired to write an article about the problem by a reader who emailed me the following question:
I planted over 40 Emerald Cedars along the border between my property and my neighbour as a privacy fence, as well as a sound barrier for my dogs barking. I planted the trees at least 5 years ago, and just last summer I noticed that they are all turning brown, instead of having that lovely fresh green colour they used to. Can you tell me what the problem is and what you might suggest as a remedy to save my Emerald cedar trees?
Location of Brown Foliage Determines Whether You Have a True Problem
When you see brown leaves on the inner part of Emerald cedars, that is generally not a problem: it is normal to see brown leaves in this area in fall or spring, as that foliage is just getting old and the Emerald cedars are shedding it.
But leaves turning brown at the outer tips of branches can be a serious problem. If you see such brown leaves in the summer, it could be due to any of the following (or some combination thereof):
Your Emerald cedars could be infested with aphids (in which case you would have to spray). Inspect foliage closely for masses of these tiny, soft-bodied insects.
They could be infested with spider mites (in which case you would have to spray). Look closely for tiny webs.
Your Emerald cedars could be succumbing to fungal diseases. Look for tiny black spots in summer. If you see them, remove infected branches to prevent further spread. If the problem persists, have your local garden center recommend an antifungal spray.
During a hot, dry summer, plants often fail to receive sufficient water.
To address reason #4 above, as a preventive measure, you can supply artificial irrigation and bark mulch. For established plants, a deep soaking every other week is sometimes recommended. Of course, this does not address the issue of vegetation that has already been damaged by drought. In severe cases, root damage can occur, resulting in dead plants. How do you check to see if your plant is dead or still alive? Slice off a bit of bark with a knife, so that you can "look under the hood," so to speak. If you see green, the plant is probably still alive (on a partially dead plant, it may take you a few tries before you find green somewhere). If all that you find is brown, the plant is most likely dead, and you should start making plans to remove it and replace it.
Is Your Yard Going to the Dogs?
Although this does not apply to the reader mentioned above (because it is unlikely to account for browning on 40 Emerald cedar trees all at once), it could apply to someone with a small number of Emerald cedars: if the foliage has been sprayed with dog urine, that can cause brown leaves. This is just one of many examples of the challenges we face in landscaping with dogs. If there is a stray dog problem in your area, you can deter dogs with dog repellents.
Note also that, in diagnosing and solving this problem of Emerald cedar leaves turning brown, it is important to specify the time of year. The above assumes the problem developed during the summer. I have a separate FAQ dealing with brown leaves on arborvitae (Emerald cedars) in winter.
Many people have asked me to address this issue.
Arborvitae is widely planted in highly visible hedges and foundation plantings, where brown leaves will stick out like a sore thumb and create an eyesore. I was finally inspired to write an article about the problem by a reader who emailed me the following question:
I planted over 40 Emerald Cedars along the border between my property and my neighbour as a privacy fence, as well as a sound barrier for my dogs barking. I planted the trees at least 5 years ago, and just last summer I noticed that they are all turning brown, instead of having that lovely fresh green colour they used to. Can you tell me what the problem is and what you might suggest as a remedy to save my Emerald cedar trees?
Location of Brown Foliage Determines Whether You Have a True Problem
When you see brown leaves on the inner part of Emerald cedars, that is generally not a problem: it is normal to see brown leaves in this area in fall or spring, as that foliage is just getting old and the Emerald cedars are shedding it.
But leaves turning brown at the outer tips of branches can be a serious problem. If you see such brown leaves in the summer, it could be due to any of the following (or some combination thereof):
Your Emerald cedars could be infested with aphids (in which case you would have to spray). Inspect foliage closely for masses of these tiny, soft-bodied insects.
They could be infested with spider mites (in which case you would have to spray). Look closely for tiny webs.
Your Emerald cedars could be succumbing to fungal diseases. Look for tiny black spots in summer. If you see them, remove infected branches to prevent further spread. If the problem persists, have your local garden center recommend an antifungal spray.
During a hot, dry summer, plants often fail to receive sufficient water.
To address reason #4 above, as a preventive measure, you can supply artificial irrigation and bark mulch. For established plants, a deep soaking every other week is sometimes recommended. Of course, this does not address the issue of vegetation that has already been damaged by drought. In severe cases, root damage can occur, resulting in dead plants. How do you check to see if your plant is dead or still alive? Slice off a bit of bark with a knife, so that you can "look under the hood," so to speak. If you see green, the plant is probably still alive (on a partially dead plant, it may take you a few tries before you find green somewhere). If all that you find is brown, the plant is most likely dead, and you should start making plans to remove it and replace it.
Is Your Yard Going to the Dogs?
Although this does not apply to the reader mentioned above (because it is unlikely to account for browning on 40 Emerald cedar trees all at once), it could apply to someone with a small number of Emerald cedars: if the foliage has been sprayed with dog urine, that can cause brown leaves. This is just one of many examples of the challenges we face in landscaping with dogs. If there is a stray dog problem in your area, you can deter dogs with dog repellents.
Note also that, in diagnosing and solving this problem of Emerald cedar leaves turning brown, it is important to specify the time of year. The above assumes the problem developed during the summer. I have a separate FAQ dealing with brown leaves on arborvitae (Emerald cedars) in winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Vitex (chaste tree, Vitex agnus-castus) blooms from late spring until early fall with long, upright spikes of pink, lilac and white flowers. Any shrub or tree that blooms all summer is well worth planting, but when it also has pleasantly fragrant flowers and foliage, it becomes a must-have plant. Chaste tree garden care is easy, but there are a few care essentials you need to know to get the most from this outstanding plant.
Chaste Tree Info
The chaste tree is a native of China, but it has a long history in the U.S. It was first cultivated in 1670, and since that time it has become naturalized throughout the Southern part of the country. Many southerners use it as a replacement for lilacs, which don’t tolerate hot summers. Chaste trees, which are considered shrubs or small trees, grow 15 to 20 feet tall with a spread of 10 to 15 feet. It attracts butterflies and bees, and it makes an excellent honey plant. Wildlife shuns the seeds, and it’s just as well because you’ll have to remove the flower spikes before they go to seed to keep the plant flowering.
Chaste Tree Cultivation
Chaste trees need full sun and very well-drained soil. It’s best not to plant them in soil that is rich in organic matter because organically rich soils hold too much moisture close to the roots. Chaste trees do very well in xeric gardens where water is scarce. Once established, you’ll probably never have to water a chaste tree. Inorganic mulch, such as pebbles or stones, allows the soil to dry between rains. Avoid using organic mulches such as bark, shredded wood or straw. Fertilize the plant every year or two with general-purpose fertilizer.
Chaste trees freeze and die back to ground level during severe weather. This isn’t a cause for concern because they regrow quickly from the roots. Nurseries sometimes prune the plant into a small tree by removing some of the main stems and all of the lower branches; but when it regrows, it will be a multi-stemmed shrub. You’ll need to prune annually to control the shape and size and encourage branching. In addition, you should remove the flower spikes when the blossoms fade. Allowing the seeds that follow the flowers to mature reduces the number of flower spikes late in the season.
Chaste Tree Info
The chaste tree is a native of China, but it has a long history in the U.S. It was first cultivated in 1670, and since that time it has become naturalized throughout the Southern part of the country. Many southerners use it as a replacement for lilacs, which don’t tolerate hot summers. Chaste trees, which are considered shrubs or small trees, grow 15 to 20 feet tall with a spread of 10 to 15 feet. It attracts butterflies and bees, and it makes an excellent honey plant. Wildlife shuns the seeds, and it’s just as well because you’ll have to remove the flower spikes before they go to seed to keep the plant flowering.
Chaste Tree Cultivation
Chaste trees need full sun and very well-drained soil. It’s best not to plant them in soil that is rich in organic matter because organically rich soils hold too much moisture close to the roots. Chaste trees do very well in xeric gardens where water is scarce. Once established, you’ll probably never have to water a chaste tree. Inorganic mulch, such as pebbles or stones, allows the soil to dry between rains. Avoid using organic mulches such as bark, shredded wood or straw. Fertilize the plant every year or two with general-purpose fertilizer.
Chaste trees freeze and die back to ground level during severe weather. This isn’t a cause for concern because they regrow quickly from the roots. Nurseries sometimes prune the plant into a small tree by removing some of the main stems and all of the lower branches; but when it regrows, it will be a multi-stemmed shrub. You’ll need to prune annually to control the shape and size and encourage branching. In addition, you should remove the flower spikes when the blossoms fade. Allowing the seeds that follow the flowers to mature reduces the number of flower spikes late in the season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Growing wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) as an evergreen shrub or small tree is an excellent addition to the landscape. Learning how to plant wax myrtle is relatively simple. The wax myrtle tree or shrub is often used for a fast growing hedge or privacy screen and may be used singly as an attractive specimen plant in the yard.
Wax Myrtle Care Tips
Wax myrtle care involves fertilization and pruning for shape or pruning when limbs are damaged or split off by heavy ice and snow. Historically, leaves of the wax myrtle tree were used for fragrance and flammability when making candles. This fragrance, still used today, has earned the shrub a common name of southern bayberry. Wax myrtle often exhibits growth of 3 to 5 feet a year. As a shrub it has a rounded, narrow form and is attractive when limbed up for use as a small tree. Use the wax myrtle tree in mixed shrub borders and as shade for the deck or patio. When growing wax myrtle, avoid planting annuals and perennials around the roots of this plant. Root disturbance or injury results in numerous suckers that must be pruned to keep the plant healthy and for proper wax myrtle care.
Fruit of the wax myrtle tree is an important source of food for birds in the winter. Grayish-white clusters of fruit with a bluish, waxy coating remain on the plant throughout the winter in USDA Zones 7 -9, where the growing wax myrtle is hardy. Include the wax myrtle tree in your natural or wildlife friendly area. Flowers appear in spring; small with a greenish tint.
How to Plant Wax Myrtle
Plant wax myrtle in a full sun to part sun area where roots will not be disturbed. This plant is salt tolerant and takes sea spray well, making it an exceptional beach front planting. The wax myrtle is adaptable to a range of soils, but prefers the soil to be moist. When growing wax myrtle, plant it where you can enjoy the bayberry fragrance emitting from the glossy leaves and berries.
Wax Myrtle Care Tips
Wax myrtle care involves fertilization and pruning for shape or pruning when limbs are damaged or split off by heavy ice and snow. Historically, leaves of the wax myrtle tree were used for fragrance and flammability when making candles. This fragrance, still used today, has earned the shrub a common name of southern bayberry. Wax myrtle often exhibits growth of 3 to 5 feet a year. As a shrub it has a rounded, narrow form and is attractive when limbed up for use as a small tree. Use the wax myrtle tree in mixed shrub borders and as shade for the deck or patio. When growing wax myrtle, avoid planting annuals and perennials around the roots of this plant. Root disturbance or injury results in numerous suckers that must be pruned to keep the plant healthy and for proper wax myrtle care.
Fruit of the wax myrtle tree is an important source of food for birds in the winter. Grayish-white clusters of fruit with a bluish, waxy coating remain on the plant throughout the winter in USDA Zones 7 -9, where the growing wax myrtle is hardy. Include the wax myrtle tree in your natural or wildlife friendly area. Flowers appear in spring; small with a greenish tint.
How to Plant Wax Myrtle
Plant wax myrtle in a full sun to part sun area where roots will not be disturbed. This plant is salt tolerant and takes sea spray well, making it an exceptional beach front planting. The wax myrtle is adaptable to a range of soils, but prefers the soil to be moist. When growing wax myrtle, plant it where you can enjoy the bayberry fragrance emitting from the glossy leaves and berries.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Native to eastern Australia, Australian tea tree plant (Leptospermum laevigatum) is a graceful evergreen shrub or small tree valued for ability to grow in difficult conditions, and for its twists and curves, which give the tree a natural, sculptured appearance. Australian tea tree plant is also known as Australian myrtle, or coastal tea tree. Want to learn about growing an Australian tea tree? It’s easy; just keep reading to find out!
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
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