文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Did you know that you can grow your own tea? Tea (Camellia sinensis) is an evergreen shrub native to China that can be grown outdoors in USDA zones 7-9. For those in cooler zones, consider growing tea plants in pots. Camellia sinensis makes an excellent container grown tea plant as it is a smaller shrub that when contained will only reach a height of about 6 feet (under 2 meters). Read on to find out about growing tea at home and tea plant container care.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The word “rue” denotes regret, but the rue I want to talk about has nothing to do with regret. Rue is an evergreen shrub in the family Rutaceae. Indigenous to Europe, people have been harvesting rue herbs for centuries to treat a myriad of ailments from insect bites to eye strains to warding off the plague. People were also using rue herbs from the garden in marinades and sauces as well as for their use as a green dye. Read on to find out when to use rue and how to harvest rue.
When to Use Rue Herbs
Rue(Ruta graveolens) has acclimatized to the United States and can be grown in USDA zones 4-9. A fascinating herb, the shrub bears small yellow flowers that, along with its foliage, emit a strong, some say obnoxious fragrance. Interesting in that the genus, Ruta belongs to the family Rutaceae, whose members include aromatic citrus trees. More interestingly, ‘graveolens’ is Latin for “having a strong or offensive smell.”
The less than aromatic odor of the plant makes it useful as a pest deterrent in the garden along with other strong smelling herbs such as sage. But pest deterrent aside, historically, the reason for planting and harvesting rue herbs is medicinal. The volatile oils of the plant’s leaves have been used to treat insect bites while the dried leaves have been used as a sedative to calm stomach cramping and nerves, and to treat warts, poor eyesight, worms and scarlet fever. It was also once used to ward off the plague and heal people that afflicted with witchcraft.
Rue is also known as the ‘herb of grace’ and ‘herb of repentance’ due to its use in some Catholic rituals. Michelangelo and Leonardo de Vinci both used the herb regularly for its purported ability to improve eyesight as well as creativity. Medicinal uses are not the only reason for harvesting rue herbs in the garden. Although the leaves have a bitter flavor, both the fresh and dried foliage have been used in not only perfumes, but in foods of all sorts, and the ancient Romans used the seeds of the perennial in their cooking. Today, rue is grown primarily as an ornamental in the garden or as part of a dried flower arrangement.
How to Harvest Rue
Rue can be toxic when taken internally; too much of it can cause severe stomach cramping. Just as it is toxic internally, contact with the stringent leaf oils can cause blistering, burning and itching of the skin. So when rue herb harvesting, wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants. It’s best to harvest rue before it flowers since once the plant flowers, the essential oils diminish. Harvest rue in the early morning when the essential oils are at their peak. The cuttings can then be used immediately, dried or kept for use for up to a week. To keep rue for up to a week, place the freshly cut stem in a glass of water on the counter, out of the sun or in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp towel and placed in a sealed plastic bag.
When to Use Rue Herbs
Rue(Ruta graveolens) has acclimatized to the United States and can be grown in USDA zones 4-9. A fascinating herb, the shrub bears small yellow flowers that, along with its foliage, emit a strong, some say obnoxious fragrance. Interesting in that the genus, Ruta belongs to the family Rutaceae, whose members include aromatic citrus trees. More interestingly, ‘graveolens’ is Latin for “having a strong or offensive smell.”
The less than aromatic odor of the plant makes it useful as a pest deterrent in the garden along with other strong smelling herbs such as sage. But pest deterrent aside, historically, the reason for planting and harvesting rue herbs is medicinal. The volatile oils of the plant’s leaves have been used to treat insect bites while the dried leaves have been used as a sedative to calm stomach cramping and nerves, and to treat warts, poor eyesight, worms and scarlet fever. It was also once used to ward off the plague and heal people that afflicted with witchcraft.
Rue is also known as the ‘herb of grace’ and ‘herb of repentance’ due to its use in some Catholic rituals. Michelangelo and Leonardo de Vinci both used the herb regularly for its purported ability to improve eyesight as well as creativity. Medicinal uses are not the only reason for harvesting rue herbs in the garden. Although the leaves have a bitter flavor, both the fresh and dried foliage have been used in not only perfumes, but in foods of all sorts, and the ancient Romans used the seeds of the perennial in their cooking. Today, rue is grown primarily as an ornamental in the garden or as part of a dried flower arrangement.
How to Harvest Rue
Rue can be toxic when taken internally; too much of it can cause severe stomach cramping. Just as it is toxic internally, contact with the stringent leaf oils can cause blistering, burning and itching of the skin. So when rue herb harvesting, wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants. It’s best to harvest rue before it flowers since once the plant flowers, the essential oils diminish. Harvest rue in the early morning when the essential oils are at their peak. The cuttings can then be used immediately, dried or kept for use for up to a week. To keep rue for up to a week, place the freshly cut stem in a glass of water on the counter, out of the sun or in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp towel and placed in a sealed plastic bag.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.) is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
Can I Grow St. John’s Wort?
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
How to Grow St. John’s Wort
Growing St. John’s wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon. If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches. Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet, so space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St John’s Wort Plant Uses
St. John’s wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s wort (H. perforatum). Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control. Here are a few cultivars you might want to try: H. x moserianum ‘Tricolor’ – This cultivar is noted for its variegated foliage with a rainbow of color that includes red, pink, cream and green. H. frondosum ‘Sunburst’ – This is one of the cultivars that can take winter temperatures down to zone 5. It forms a bushy mound up to 2 feet in diameter. The Hypearls series includes the cultivars ‘Olivia’, ‘Renu’, ‘Jacqueline’ and ‘Jessica.’ This series is one of the best for hot climates. H. calycinum ‘Brigadoon’ – The flowers on this cultivar aren’t as conspicuous as some of the others, but it has chartreuse foliage that turns golden orange in bright sun.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The piney scent of a rosemary plant is a favorite of many gardeners. This semi hardy shrub can be grown as hedges and edging in areas that are USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 6 or higher. In other zones, this herb makes a delightful annual in the herb garden or can be grown in pots and brought indoors. Because rosemary is such a wonderful herb, many gardeners want to know how to propagate rosemary. You can propagate rosemary from either rosemary seeds, rosemary cuttings or layering. Let’s look at how.
Step-by-Step Instructions Stem Cutting Rosemary
Rosemary cuttings are the most common way in how to propagate rosemary.
Take a 2- to 3-inch cutting from a mature rosemary plant with a clean, sharp pair of shears. Rosemary cuttings should be taken from the soft or new wood on the plant. The soft wood is most easily harvested in the spring when the plant is in its most active growth phase. Remove the leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the cutting leaving at least five or six leaves. Take the rosemary cuttings and place it in a well draining potting medium. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help the cuttings retain moisture. Place in indirect light. When you see new growth, remove plastic. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Layering
Propagating a rosemary plant through layering is much like doing so through rosemary cuttings, except the “cuttings” stay attached to the mother plant. Choose a somewhat long stem, one that when bent over can reach the ground. Bend the stem down to the ground and pin it to the ground, leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of the tip on the other side of the pin. Strip away the bark and leaves that are 1/2 inch on either side of the pin. Bury the pin and the bare bark with soil. Once new growth appears on the tip, cut the stem away from the mother rosemary plant. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Rosemary Seeds
Soak seeds is warm water overnight.
Scatter across the soil.
Cover lightly with soil.
Germination may take up to three months
Step-by-Step Instructions Stem Cutting Rosemary
Rosemary cuttings are the most common way in how to propagate rosemary.
Take a 2- to 3-inch cutting from a mature rosemary plant with a clean, sharp pair of shears. Rosemary cuttings should be taken from the soft or new wood on the plant. The soft wood is most easily harvested in the spring when the plant is in its most active growth phase. Remove the leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the cutting leaving at least five or six leaves. Take the rosemary cuttings and place it in a well draining potting medium. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or plastic wrap to help the cuttings retain moisture. Place in indirect light. When you see new growth, remove plastic. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Layering
Propagating a rosemary plant through layering is much like doing so through rosemary cuttings, except the “cuttings” stay attached to the mother plant. Choose a somewhat long stem, one that when bent over can reach the ground. Bend the stem down to the ground and pin it to the ground, leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of the tip on the other side of the pin. Strip away the bark and leaves that are 1/2 inch on either side of the pin. Bury the pin and the bare bark with soil. Once new growth appears on the tip, cut the stem away from the mother rosemary plant. Transplant to a new location.
How to Propagate Rosemary with Rosemary Seeds
Soak seeds is warm water overnight.
Scatter across the soil.
Cover lightly with soil.
Germination may take up to three months
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While pruning a rosemary plant is not needed to keep a rosemary healthy, there are several reasons why a gardener might want to prune a rosemary bush. It may be that they want to shape the rosemary or reduce the size of the rosemary shrub or to create a more bushy and productive plant. Whatever your reasons for wanting to prune your rosemary, there are a few things you need to know about how to prune a rosemary bush.
When to Prune Rosemary
Rosemary pruning can be done anytime during the spring or summer up until four to six weeks before the first frost. Pruning rosemary after this time, or in the fall and winter, can cause the rosemary shrub to focus on growing new, tender growth rather than hardening off and protecting the growth that it has. If a rosemary bush does not harden itself off, it will be more susceptible to winter damage which can kill it.
Tips for How to Prune a Rosemary Bush
Before you prune your rosemary bush, make sure that your pruning shears are sharp and clean. Blunt or dirty pruning shears can result in ragged cuts that can leave the rosemary plant vulnerable to bacteria and pests. The next step in how to trim rosemary bushes is to decide why you want to trim the plant. If you are trimming the rosemary to shape it, say as a hedge or a topiary, draw a mental picture of what you would like the plant to look like and trim away the branches that do not fall into that outline. If your shaping needs to remove more than one-third of any branch, you will need to prune the rosemary back in stages. You can prune back branches by one-quarter, but you will need to give them a season to recover before pruning again.
If you are doing rosemary pruning simply to create a busier plant, you can remove the end one to two inches of the branches. This will force the branch to split and will create a bushier plant. This technique is particularly helpful if you are growing rosemary for cooking, as this creates more foliage in a more compact space. You may also find that your rosemary plant is in need of some rejuvenation. Find tips for this here: Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants. The steps for how to prune a rosemary bush are simple but important. Knowing how to trim rosemary bushes properly will help you keep your rosemary happy and manageable.
When to Prune Rosemary
Rosemary pruning can be done anytime during the spring or summer up until four to six weeks before the first frost. Pruning rosemary after this time, or in the fall and winter, can cause the rosemary shrub to focus on growing new, tender growth rather than hardening off and protecting the growth that it has. If a rosemary bush does not harden itself off, it will be more susceptible to winter damage which can kill it.
Tips for How to Prune a Rosemary Bush
Before you prune your rosemary bush, make sure that your pruning shears are sharp and clean. Blunt or dirty pruning shears can result in ragged cuts that can leave the rosemary plant vulnerable to bacteria and pests. The next step in how to trim rosemary bushes is to decide why you want to trim the plant. If you are trimming the rosemary to shape it, say as a hedge or a topiary, draw a mental picture of what you would like the plant to look like and trim away the branches that do not fall into that outline. If your shaping needs to remove more than one-third of any branch, you will need to prune the rosemary back in stages. You can prune back branches by one-quarter, but you will need to give them a season to recover before pruning again.
If you are doing rosemary pruning simply to create a busier plant, you can remove the end one to two inches of the branches. This will force the branch to split and will create a bushier plant. This technique is particularly helpful if you are growing rosemary for cooking, as this creates more foliage in a more compact space. You may also find that your rosemary plant is in need of some rejuvenation. Find tips for this here: Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants. The steps for how to prune a rosemary bush are simple but important. Knowing how to trim rosemary bushes properly will help you keep your rosemary happy and manageable.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Evergreen rosemary is an attractive evergreen shrub with needle-like leaves and brilliant blue flowers. The flowers of evergreen rosemary persist through spring and summer, filling the air with a nice piney fragrance. This beautiful herb, mostly used for seasoning dishes, is also commonly used as ornamental plantings in the landscape. The scientific name for rosemary plant is Rosmarinus officinalis, which translates to “mist of the sea,” as its gray-green foliage is thought to resemble mist against the sea cliffs of the Mediterranean, where the plant originates.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The lemon verbena plant (Aloysia citrodora) is native to the countries of Chile and Argentina. The lemon verbena herb is an aromatic shrub, its leaves holding their fragrance even after being dried for years. The lemon verbena plant has a fragrant, lemony smell, small white flowers and narrow leaves. Read on to learn more about growing lemon verbena.
How Do I Grow Lemon Verbena?
Growing lemon verbena isn’t too difficult. The lemon verbena herb is a sensitive one, preferring warmth to cold and having a high water requirement. Lemon verbena seeds or cuttings are used when you want to generate a new plant. In other words, you can propagate the plant or grow it fresh from the seeds.
The cuttings of lemon verbena plants can be placed in a jar of water while you wait for new roots to form. Once they form, wait a few weeks for a good root structure to exist before planting the plant into soil. Once you see some good roots, you can plant it in a container with normal potting soil or outdoors if you live in a warm climate. As far as growing lemon verbena from seed, you can start them in your normal starting planters. Just remember that both the seeds and the cuttings need plenty of sunshine to form a good plant. Once you see the seedlings and they have grown several leaves, you can transplant the seedlings into normal sized pots.
Some Lemon Verbena Uses
Some of the most common lemon verbena uses include putting the leaves and flowers in teas and to flavor alcoholic beverages. You can use the lemon verbena herbs in desserts and jams. It is also wonderful in a good fruit salad. The lemon verbena plant is sometimes used in making perfumes. There are toilet waters and colognes that include the herb in their ingredients. Medicinally, the flowers and leaves of the lemon verbena herb have been used to help with certain medical conditions. Lemon verbena uses include using it medicinally as an antipyretic (fever reducer), sedative, stomachic and antispasmodic.
So now you know that growing lemon verbena is not that difficult and requires very little work. You also know that lemon verbena uses include human consumption both medicinally and as an herb, and that it is safe for human consumption. Lemon verbena plants are very versatile, so when you include it in an herb garden, know that you have included a very useful plant indeed.
How Do I Grow Lemon Verbena?
Growing lemon verbena isn’t too difficult. The lemon verbena herb is a sensitive one, preferring warmth to cold and having a high water requirement. Lemon verbena seeds or cuttings are used when you want to generate a new plant. In other words, you can propagate the plant or grow it fresh from the seeds.
The cuttings of lemon verbena plants can be placed in a jar of water while you wait for new roots to form. Once they form, wait a few weeks for a good root structure to exist before planting the plant into soil. Once you see some good roots, you can plant it in a container with normal potting soil or outdoors if you live in a warm climate. As far as growing lemon verbena from seed, you can start them in your normal starting planters. Just remember that both the seeds and the cuttings need plenty of sunshine to form a good plant. Once you see the seedlings and they have grown several leaves, you can transplant the seedlings into normal sized pots.
Some Lemon Verbena Uses
Some of the most common lemon verbena uses include putting the leaves and flowers in teas and to flavor alcoholic beverages. You can use the lemon verbena herbs in desserts and jams. It is also wonderful in a good fruit salad. The lemon verbena plant is sometimes used in making perfumes. There are toilet waters and colognes that include the herb in their ingredients. Medicinally, the flowers and leaves of the lemon verbena herb have been used to help with certain medical conditions. Lemon verbena uses include using it medicinally as an antipyretic (fever reducer), sedative, stomachic and antispasmodic.
So now you know that growing lemon verbena is not that difficult and requires very little work. You also know that lemon verbena uses include human consumption both medicinally and as an herb, and that it is safe for human consumption. Lemon verbena plants are very versatile, so when you include it in an herb garden, know that you have included a very useful plant indeed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Named for its edible leaves, Jamaican sorrel (Hibiscus sabdariffa var. sabdariffa) is also called red sorrel, roselle and Florida cranberry. This shrub is a short-lived perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and an annual in colder zones. Growing 5 to 7 feet tall, Jamaican sorrel's narrow, lobed leaves and stems are reddish-green, and it flowers late fall through early winter. Its flower bases, called calyces, are used for making jellies, jams, juices and wines.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a group of hybrid shrub roses bred for wide climate tolerance and significant resistance to disease and insect pests. Unlike traditional rose pruning, Knockout rose shrubs perform better when sheared down each year in the spring. They are also self-cleaning so they do not require dead heading, which adds to their low maintenance.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose hips are the fruit developed by rose plants after bloom and they mature on the rose plant through the fall and often into winter if left in place. Most species of roses produce hips in some size and amount, but old garden, heirloom and classic shrub roses will tend to develop more of them than modern, highly bred cultivars, according to the University of Illinois. Pruning rose hips can be done at several points in their development, depending entirely on your goals for plant performance and the look you like in your garden. Rose hips are edible for humans and contain high levels of vitamin C and are prized by birds and other animals as a food source.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
In 1988 rose breeder William Radler developed the Knockout Rose shrub, which has since proven resistant to cold climates and many common rose diseases such as black spot. The best time to plant your Knockout roses is dependent on your location and the maturity of the rose roots or plants you are planting.
Seasons
According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, the best times to plant knockout roses are in the early spring or late winter if you live a region that experiences cold winter seasons. If you live in an area with a warm climate such as California, Texas or Florida, you can plant in the fall or early December.
Root or Plant
If you are planting rose bulbs or roots, you should plant them in the springtime to give them plenty of time to grow before the cold weather arrives. According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, rose plants can be placed in containers or planted in the ground during much of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or water logged.
Considerations
Knockout roses have proven their hardiness and durability relative to other types of roses--they are winter hardy to USDA Zone 5 and heat tolerant throughout the U.S. However, a few environmental threats are common to all roses, including Knockouts. Frost and cold weather will stunt the growth of Knockout roots or young plants, and they generally don't fair well when their roots are left to soak in water.
Tips
Wait until the last frost has passed before you begin planting. Check with your local nursery if you are unsure when it is safe to plant. Plant roses where there is plenty of drainage, and modify your watering patterns in accordance with heavy rain or prolonged sun and heat. In regions that experience especially cold winters, it may be necessary to provide protection for the knockouts in your garden; check with your local nursery for guidance.
Seasons
According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, the best times to plant knockout roses are in the early spring or late winter if you live a region that experiences cold winter seasons. If you live in an area with a warm climate such as California, Texas or Florida, you can plant in the fall or early December.
Root or Plant
If you are planting rose bulbs or roots, you should plant them in the springtime to give them plenty of time to grow before the cold weather arrives. According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, rose plants can be placed in containers or planted in the ground during much of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or water logged.
Considerations
Knockout roses have proven their hardiness and durability relative to other types of roses--they are winter hardy to USDA Zone 5 and heat tolerant throughout the U.S. However, a few environmental threats are common to all roses, including Knockouts. Frost and cold weather will stunt the growth of Knockout roots or young plants, and they generally don't fair well when their roots are left to soak in water.
Tips
Wait until the last frost has passed before you begin planting. Check with your local nursery if you are unsure when it is safe to plant. Plant roses where there is plenty of drainage, and modify your watering patterns in accordance with heavy rain or prolonged sun and heat. In regions that experience especially cold winters, it may be necessary to provide protection for the knockouts in your garden; check with your local nursery for guidance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The garden croton (Codiaeum variegatum) is a small shrub with big tropical-looking leaves. Crotons can grow outdoors in gardening zones 9 to 11, and some varieties also make great houseplants, though demanding ones. Their striking red, orange and yellow-striped leaves make the extra work worthwhile. Some varieties even have purple or white stripes and patches on the dark green leaves. But sometimes the bright colors on a croton fade, leaving them with ordinary-looking green leaves. It can be disappointing to notice a croton losing color because those vibrant leaves are this plant’s best feature.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Scientifically known as the Rosa rugosa, the beach rose is a sturdy, easy-to-grow shrub that enjoyed by landscapers and home gardeners alike. Not only are beach roses cold-tolerant and disease resistant, they will also withstand conditions that would send most rose bushes into a full wilt. They thrive in poor soil, salt air, windy environments and full sun. However, while they don't require the attention other rose bushes demand, they do need periodic trimming to look their best. Pruning beach roses eliminates old, unattractive or damaged wood, while promoting the growth of new foliage and flowers.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants grow in either a tree form or a shrub form. Tree yuccas are tall growing trees that have thick fibrous leaves on the tips of their branches. Common tree yuccas are Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) and the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia). Shrub yuccas, like the hairy yucca (Yucca filamentosa), are low-growing spiky plants that form rosettes of thick fibrous leaves that sprout from a central point. After both yucca plants bloom, a brown flower stalk is left behind. The flowering stalk should be removed from the plant if you do not wish for the plant to produce seed. Often, shrub yucca plants turn brown and then die after they flower, but new plants emerge around the dead rosette.
Step 1
Put on leather gardening gloves and prune off the dead and dying leaves in the spring with sharp pruning shears. Avoid pulling the leaves off the plant as this causes damage.
Step 2
Remove the flower stalk after it has dried, which is usually in late summer. Cut the flower stalk 3 to 4 inches above the center of the rosette with sharp pruning shears. Remove the severed flowering stalk and discard. Pull the stalk out from the center of the plant only if the center is rotted and the stalk can be easily removed.
Step 3
Pull the dead yucca plant out of the ground gently when you notice new plants forming around it. Use caution not to disturb the newly emerged plants.
Flowering Stalk Removal of Tree Yuccas
Step 4
Prune off only dead or dying leaves with pruning shears. Removing green leaves damages the tree. Wear leather gloves to protect your hands.
Step 5
Cut the flower stalk panicles off the tree after a few weeks of blooming if you live in a wet area. Cut the panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. Dead flower stalks will fall off the tree leaving behind a hole where water can get into the heart of the plant and rot it out from the inside.
Step 6
Cut the flowing stalks anytime if you live in a dry climate. Cut the stalk panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. It is not harmful to leave the flowering stalks on the tree if you live in an arid area that does not receive much rain.
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