文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
What is Tamarix? Also known as tamarisk, Tamarix is a small shrub or tree marked by slender branches; tiny, grayish-green leaves and pale pink or off-white blooms. Tamarix reaches heights of up to 20 feet, although some species are much smaller. Read on for more Tamarix information.
Tamarix Information and Uses
Tamarix (Tamarix spp.) is a graceful, fast-growing tree that tolerates desert heat, freezing winters, drought and both alkaline and saline soil, although it prefers sandy loam. Most species are deciduous. Tamarix in the landscape works well as a hedge or windbreak, although the tree can appear somewhat scruffy during the winter months. Because of its long taproot and dense growth habit, uses for Tamarix include erosion control, particularly on dry, sloped areas. It also does well in saline conditions.
Is Tamarix Invasive?
Before planting Tamarix, keep in mind that the plant has high potential for invasiveness in USDA growing zones 8 through 10. Tamarix is a non-native plant that has escaped its boundaries and, as a result, has created serious problems in mild climates, especially in riparian areas where the dense thickets crowd out native plants and the long taproots draw large amounts of water from the soil. The plant also absorbs salt from the groundwater, accumulates it in the leaves, and eventually deposits the salt back to the soil, often in concentrations high enough to be harmful to native vegetation.
Tamarix is extremely difficult to control, as it spreads by roots, stem fragments and seeds, which are dispersed by water and wind. Tamarix is listed as a noxious weed in nearly all western states and is extremely problematic in the Southwest, where it has severely reduced underground water levels and threatened many native species. However, Athel tamarix (Tamarix aphylla), also known as saltcedar or athel tree, is an evergreen species often used as an ornamental. It tends to be less invasive than other species.
Tamarix Information and Uses
Tamarix (Tamarix spp.) is a graceful, fast-growing tree that tolerates desert heat, freezing winters, drought and both alkaline and saline soil, although it prefers sandy loam. Most species are deciduous. Tamarix in the landscape works well as a hedge or windbreak, although the tree can appear somewhat scruffy during the winter months. Because of its long taproot and dense growth habit, uses for Tamarix include erosion control, particularly on dry, sloped areas. It also does well in saline conditions.
Is Tamarix Invasive?
Before planting Tamarix, keep in mind that the plant has high potential for invasiveness in USDA growing zones 8 through 10. Tamarix is a non-native plant that has escaped its boundaries and, as a result, has created serious problems in mild climates, especially in riparian areas where the dense thickets crowd out native plants and the long taproots draw large amounts of water from the soil. The plant also absorbs salt from the groundwater, accumulates it in the leaves, and eventually deposits the salt back to the soil, often in concentrations high enough to be harmful to native vegetation.
Tamarix is extremely difficult to control, as it spreads by roots, stem fragments and seeds, which are dispersed by water and wind. Tamarix is listed as a noxious weed in nearly all western states and is extremely problematic in the Southwest, where it has severely reduced underground water levels and threatened many native species. However, Athel tamarix (Tamarix aphylla), also known as saltcedar or athel tree, is an evergreen species often used as an ornamental. It tends to be less invasive than other species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Smoke tree is an ornamental shrub to small tree that is grown for the bright purple or yellow leaves and the spring flowers that mature and “puff” out as if they were clouds of smoke. Smoke trees tend to have a rangy, splayed growth habit. Pruning smoke trees annually will help make the plant more compact and strengthen the limbs.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Smoke tree (Cotinus spp.) is a unique, colorful tree-shrub named for the cloud-like appearance created by long, fuzzy, thread-like filaments that emerge on small blooms throughout the summer. Smoke tree also displays interesting bark and colorful foliage that ranges from purple to blue-green, depending on the variety. Can you grow smoke tree in a container? Smoke tree is suitable for growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. This means you can grow smoke tree in a container if your climate isn’t too cold – or too hot. Read on for more information about growing smoke tree in pots.
How to Grow Smoke Tree in a Container
Growing smoke trees in containers isn’t difficult, but there are a few important things to keep in mind. The type and quality of the container is of primary importance because smoke tree reaches mature heights of 10 to 15 feet. Don’t cut costs here; a cheap, lightweight container is likely to tip over as the tree gains height. Look for a sturdy container with at least one drainage hole. If you want to add more stability, place a thin layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot. Gravel will also prevent potting soil from clogging the drainage holes. Don’t plant a small tree in a huge pot, or the roots may rot. Use an appropriately sized pot, then repot as the tree grows. A pot that is approximately as tall as it is wide will offer the roots the best protection in winter.
Fill the container to within a few inches of the rim with a potting mix consisting of equal parts coarse sand, commercial potting mix and good quality topsoil or soil-based compost. Plant the tree in the pot at the same depth the tree was planted in the nursery container – or about ½ inch below the top rim of the pot. You may need to adjust the soil to bring the tree to the proper level. Fill in around the roots with the soil mix, and then water well.
Smoke Tree Container Care
Container grown smoke trees require water more frequently than in-ground trees, but the tree shouldn’t be overwatered. As a general rule, water only when the top inch or so of soil feels dry, then let a hose run at the base of the plant until water runs through the drainage hole. Smoke trees tolerate light shade, but full sunlight brings out the colors in the foliage. Don’t bother fertilizing or pruning container grown smoke trees for the first two or three years. After that time, you can trim the tree to the desired shape while the tree is still dormant in late winter or early spring.
Place the smoke tree in a protected area during the winter months. If necessary, wrap the pot with an insulating blanket to protect the roots during cold snaps.
How to Grow Smoke Tree in a Container
Growing smoke trees in containers isn’t difficult, but there are a few important things to keep in mind. The type and quality of the container is of primary importance because smoke tree reaches mature heights of 10 to 15 feet. Don’t cut costs here; a cheap, lightweight container is likely to tip over as the tree gains height. Look for a sturdy container with at least one drainage hole. If you want to add more stability, place a thin layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot. Gravel will also prevent potting soil from clogging the drainage holes. Don’t plant a small tree in a huge pot, or the roots may rot. Use an appropriately sized pot, then repot as the tree grows. A pot that is approximately as tall as it is wide will offer the roots the best protection in winter.
Fill the container to within a few inches of the rim with a potting mix consisting of equal parts coarse sand, commercial potting mix and good quality topsoil or soil-based compost. Plant the tree in the pot at the same depth the tree was planted in the nursery container – or about ½ inch below the top rim of the pot. You may need to adjust the soil to bring the tree to the proper level. Fill in around the roots with the soil mix, and then water well.
Smoke Tree Container Care
Container grown smoke trees require water more frequently than in-ground trees, but the tree shouldn’t be overwatered. As a general rule, water only when the top inch or so of soil feels dry, then let a hose run at the base of the plant until water runs through the drainage hole. Smoke trees tolerate light shade, but full sunlight brings out the colors in the foliage. Don’t bother fertilizing or pruning container grown smoke trees for the first two or three years. After that time, you can trim the tree to the desired shape while the tree is still dormant in late winter or early spring.
Place the smoke tree in a protected area during the winter months. If necessary, wrap the pot with an insulating blanket to protect the roots during cold snaps.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Have you ever seen a smoke tree (European, Cotinus coggygria/American, Cotinus obovatus)? Growing smoke trees is something people do to make great looking shrub borders or even just as a pretty patio or accent tree in a front yard garden. When in full bloom, they have gorgeous reddish brown or dark mauve feathery flowers that make the tree look like a puff of smoke.
Planting smoke trees is easy enough. These trees make a great landscaping addition to most front yards. A lot of people prefer to use them as accent trees similar to the Japanese maple. When the smoke tree blooms, it makes a great accent. Planting smoke trees throughout the border of your yard is another excellent idea for a pretty border that separates your yard from your neighbor’s that both you and your neighbor will enjoy.
Tips for Growing Smoke Trees
If you are planting smoke trees in your yard, you will want to know how to grow a smoke tree. This is simple enough. Purchase a good tree from your local garden center. They grow well in a high pH soil and should be located where they can get full sun or partial shade; however, they do prefer full sun and will bloom at their best in full sun. When the smoke tree blooms, it is a beautiful tree. The puff of smoke that is the flowers will last most of the summer before it starts to fall off and fade for fall foliage. Again, the smoke tree blooms are like feathery, fuzzy flowers and look like a beautiful cloud of smoke. Growing smoke trees is easy but you should be careful not to damage the bark. The bark is thin and easily damaged. Therefore, be careful not to hit it with a lawnmower or other gardening equipment while gardening. Weed whackers can also do harm, so again, use caution.
Pruning a Smoke Tree
The plant will also droop as it gets larger, so pruning your growing smoke trees is very important. Wait until late fall or early spring to do so after the tree is done blooming. You don’t want to stop the tree from blooming as the smoke tree blooms are the best part of the tree. Pruning your smoke tree will make sure it grows up strong. Further, keeping the soil alkaline should help your tree be healthy as well. You can get food for the tree or treatments for the soil if you feel you need them from your local garden center.
Planting smoke trees is easy enough. These trees make a great landscaping addition to most front yards. A lot of people prefer to use them as accent trees similar to the Japanese maple. When the smoke tree blooms, it makes a great accent. Planting smoke trees throughout the border of your yard is another excellent idea for a pretty border that separates your yard from your neighbor’s that both you and your neighbor will enjoy.
Tips for Growing Smoke Trees
If you are planting smoke trees in your yard, you will want to know how to grow a smoke tree. This is simple enough. Purchase a good tree from your local garden center. They grow well in a high pH soil and should be located where they can get full sun or partial shade; however, they do prefer full sun and will bloom at their best in full sun. When the smoke tree blooms, it is a beautiful tree. The puff of smoke that is the flowers will last most of the summer before it starts to fall off and fade for fall foliage. Again, the smoke tree blooms are like feathery, fuzzy flowers and look like a beautiful cloud of smoke. Growing smoke trees is easy but you should be careful not to damage the bark. The bark is thin and easily damaged. Therefore, be careful not to hit it with a lawnmower or other gardening equipment while gardening. Weed whackers can also do harm, so again, use caution.
Pruning a Smoke Tree
The plant will also droop as it gets larger, so pruning your growing smoke trees is very important. Wait until late fall or early spring to do so after the tree is done blooming. You don’t want to stop the tree from blooming as the smoke tree blooms are the best part of the tree. Pruning your smoke tree will make sure it grows up strong. Further, keeping the soil alkaline should help your tree be healthy as well. You can get food for the tree or treatments for the soil if you feel you need them from your local garden center.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Plum leaf sand cherry, also referred to as purple leaf sand cherry plants, is a medium sized ornamental shrub or small tree that when mature reaches a height of approximately 8 feet tall by 8 feet wide. This easy care plant makes a great addition to the landscape.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a hardy shrub that belongs to the rose family. This striking plant, also known as plum leaf sand cherry, is valued for its reddish-purple foliage and pale pink blooms. Purple leaf sand cherry care involves regular pruning. Read on for tips on how to prune a purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Also known as western sand cherry or Bessey cherry, sand cherry (Prunus pumila) is a bushy shrub or small tree that thrives in difficult sites such as sandy river or lake shores, as well as rocky slopes and cliffs. The small, purple-black fruits, which mature in mid-summer after the white springtime flowers have faded, are highly prized by birds and wildlife. It is also one of the parent plants to the hybrid purple-leaf sand cherry. Propagating a sand cherry plant isn’t a difficult task, and there are several effective ways to propagate sand cherry trees. Read on to learn how to propagate a sand cherry for your garden.
Growing Sand Cherry from Cuttings
Take softwood cuttings from a healthy sand cherry plant in early spring. Cut 4- to 6-inch (10-14 cm.) stems, making each cut just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a small pot with potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and allow it to drain overnight. The following morning, dip the tip of the stem in rooting hormone and plant it in the pot with the leaves above the soil.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. Check the cutting daily and water lightly if the potting mix is dry. Remove the bag as soon as new growth appears, which indicates the cutting has successfully rooted. Allow the seedlings to remain indoors at least until the following spring, then plant them outdoors when all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Seed
Harvest sand cherries when they are fully ripe. Put the cherries in a sieve and rinse them under running water as you squash them with your fingers. Put the mashed sand cherries in a glass jar filled with warm water. A small amount of liquid dish detergent added to the water during the soaking period may promote separation of seeds from pulp. Allow the seeds to remain in the water for no more than four days, then drain the contents through a sieve. The viable seeds should be at the bottom of the jar. Once the seeds are cleaned, plant them in the garden immediately.
If you aren’t ready to plant directly into the garden, place the seeds in a plastic bag with a small amount of moist peat moss and stratify them in the refrigerator at 40 F. (4 C.) for six to eight weeks before planting outdoors. Plant the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and at least 12 inches (30 cm.) apart. Plant several in case some don’t germinate. Mark the area so you remember where you planted the seeds. Keep the area well watered.
If it’s too cold to plant the stratified seeds outdoors, you can plant them in celled trays filled with potting mix. Place the trays in filtered or indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist. Transplant the seedlings into a sunny, well-drained spot in your garden when they have at least two sets of leaves. Be sure all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Cuttings
Take softwood cuttings from a healthy sand cherry plant in early spring. Cut 4- to 6-inch (10-14 cm.) stems, making each cut just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a small pot with potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and allow it to drain overnight. The following morning, dip the tip of the stem in rooting hormone and plant it in the pot with the leaves above the soil.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. Check the cutting daily and water lightly if the potting mix is dry. Remove the bag as soon as new growth appears, which indicates the cutting has successfully rooted. Allow the seedlings to remain indoors at least until the following spring, then plant them outdoors when all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Seed
Harvest sand cherries when they are fully ripe. Put the cherries in a sieve and rinse them under running water as you squash them with your fingers. Put the mashed sand cherries in a glass jar filled with warm water. A small amount of liquid dish detergent added to the water during the soaking period may promote separation of seeds from pulp. Allow the seeds to remain in the water for no more than four days, then drain the contents through a sieve. The viable seeds should be at the bottom of the jar. Once the seeds are cleaned, plant them in the garden immediately.
If you aren’t ready to plant directly into the garden, place the seeds in a plastic bag with a small amount of moist peat moss and stratify them in the refrigerator at 40 F. (4 C.) for six to eight weeks before planting outdoors. Plant the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and at least 12 inches (30 cm.) apart. Plant several in case some don’t germinate. Mark the area so you remember where you planted the seeds. Keep the area well watered.
If it’s too cold to plant the stratified seeds outdoors, you can plant them in celled trays filled with potting mix. Place the trays in filtered or indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist. Transplant the seedlings into a sunny, well-drained spot in your garden when they have at least two sets of leaves. Be sure all danger of frost has passed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The gray dogwood isn’t a tidy or attractive plant that you would want to plant in a well-groomed garden, but if you are planting a wildlife area or want a shrub for difficult conditions, it may be just what you need. Read on for information about this humble shrub.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known a swamp dogwood, silky dogwood is a mid-size shrub that grows wild along streams, ponds and other wetlands across much of the eastern half of the United States. In the home landscape, silky dogwood bushes work well in moist, naturalized areas and do a good job at stabilizing the soil in erosion-prone sites. Mature height generally ranges from 6 to 12 feet. Read on for additional silky dogwood information.
Silky Dog Information
Silky dogwood (Cornus amomum) is named for the silky gray hairs that cover the undersides of leaves and twigs, which turn purplish in spring and reddish-brown in autumn. It is from these silky hairs that make silky dogwood identification fairly easy.
Clusters of tiny creamy white flowers bloom in late spring and early summer. The plant is often found in shade or semi-shade but tolerates moderate sunlight. Silky dogwood bushes may not be the best choice if your goal is a tidy, manicured garden, but the shrub’s rather unkempt, rounded appearance fits well into a natural setting. Birds love the pale blue fruit that shows up in late summer.
Growing Silky Dogwood Shrubs
A relative of dogwood trees, silky dogwood bushes are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. The shrubs are adaptable plants that tolerate either dry or wet sites, but prefer moist, well-drained soil. Although silky dogwood withstands alkaline soil, the plant is better suited to slightly acidic conditions.
Caring for Silky Dogwoods
Water young shrubs regularly until the roots are well established. Once the shrubs are settled in, caring for silky dogwoods requires little effort. For example, you can water the shrub – or not. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will keep the soil moist and cool. No fertilizer is required.
Remove suckers if you want to limit growth, or allow the shrubs to grow unrestrained if you want to form a naturalized screen or thicket. Prune silky dogwood as needed into any size or shape you like, and be sure to remove dead or damaged growth.
Silky Dog Information
Silky dogwood (Cornus amomum) is named for the silky gray hairs that cover the undersides of leaves and twigs, which turn purplish in spring and reddish-brown in autumn. It is from these silky hairs that make silky dogwood identification fairly easy.
Clusters of tiny creamy white flowers bloom in late spring and early summer. The plant is often found in shade or semi-shade but tolerates moderate sunlight. Silky dogwood bushes may not be the best choice if your goal is a tidy, manicured garden, but the shrub’s rather unkempt, rounded appearance fits well into a natural setting. Birds love the pale blue fruit that shows up in late summer.
Growing Silky Dogwood Shrubs
A relative of dogwood trees, silky dogwood bushes are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. The shrubs are adaptable plants that tolerate either dry or wet sites, but prefer moist, well-drained soil. Although silky dogwood withstands alkaline soil, the plant is better suited to slightly acidic conditions.
Caring for Silky Dogwoods
Water young shrubs regularly until the roots are well established. Once the shrubs are settled in, caring for silky dogwoods requires little effort. For example, you can water the shrub – or not. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will keep the soil moist and cool. No fertilizer is required.
Remove suckers if you want to limit growth, or allow the shrubs to grow unrestrained if you want to form a naturalized screen or thicket. Prune silky dogwood as needed into any size or shape you like, and be sure to remove dead or damaged growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cassia trees are also called candlebrush, and it’s easy to see why. In late summer, the golden yellow flowers that hang from the branches in long clusters resemble candles. This large, spreading shrub or small tree makes a great container accent plant that looks fantastic on patios and near entryways. You can also use it as a specimen or lawn tree. Pruning cassia trees helps strengthen the structure and keeps it looking neat.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
There are over one thousand species of bamboo. Some are majestic giants soaring to over one-hundred feet in the air. Others are shrub-like, growing only three feet tall. Bamboo plants belong to the grass family. They are more closely related to turf grass than they are to a tree. Most bamboos hail from the tropics, but there are also many temperate bamboos. A few can even survive freezing mountain temperatures. While these plants are generally hardy, when bamboo leaves are yellow, this could signal an issue. Read on to learn more.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The ocotillo plant (Fouquieria splendens) is desert shrub that produces a spectacle of bright pink flowers on whip-like canes. It is often called ocotillo cactus, but is not truly a cactus, although it grows in similar conditions. The plant is native to the Sonoron and Chihuahuan deserts. The canes may grow up to 20 feet long in nature but are more likely to get 6 to 10 feet in cultivation. Ocotillo is suitable for xeriscapes, rock gardens and warm climate container gardens.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What are tea plants? The tea we drink comes from various cultivars of Camellia sinensis, a small tree or large shrub commonly known as the tea plant. Familiar teas such as white, black, green and oolong all come from tea plants, although the method of processing varies considerably. Read on to learn about growing tea plants at home.
Tea Plants in the Garden
The most familiar and widely grown tea plants include two common varieties: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, used primarily for white and green tea, and Camellia sinensis var. assamica, used for black tea.
The first is native to China, where it grows at very high elevations. This variety is suitable for moderate climates, generally USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. The second variety, however, is native to India. It isn’t frost tolerant and grows in tropical climates of zone 10b and above. There are countless cultivars derived from the two main varieties. Some are hardy plants that grow in climates as far north as zone 6b. In colder climates, tea plants do well in containers. Bring the plants indoors before temperatures drop in autumn.
Growing Tea Plants at Home
Tea plants in the garden require well drained, slightly acidic soil. An acidic mulch, such as pine needles, will help retain the proper soil pH. Full or dappled sunlight is ideal, as are temperatures between 55 and 90 F. (13-32 C). Avoid full shade, as tea plants in sun are more robust. Otherwise, tea plant care isn’t complicated. Water plants frequently during the first two years – generally two or three times per week during the summer, using rainwater whenever possible. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Saturate the rootball but don’t overwater, as tea plants don’t appreciate wet feet. Once the plants are well established, continue to water as needed during hot, dry weather. Spray or mist the leaves lightly during dry periods, as tea plants are tropical plants that thrive in humidity.
Pay close attention to tea plants grown in containers, and never allow the soil to become completely dry. Fertilize in spring and early summer, using a product formulated for camellia, azaleaand other acid-loving plants. Always water well before feeding tea plants in the garden, and immediately rinse any fertilizer that lands on the leaves. You can also use a water-soluble fertilizer.
Tea Plants in the Garden
The most familiar and widely grown tea plants include two common varieties: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, used primarily for white and green tea, and Camellia sinensis var. assamica, used for black tea.
The first is native to China, where it grows at very high elevations. This variety is suitable for moderate climates, generally USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. The second variety, however, is native to India. It isn’t frost tolerant and grows in tropical climates of zone 10b and above. There are countless cultivars derived from the two main varieties. Some are hardy plants that grow in climates as far north as zone 6b. In colder climates, tea plants do well in containers. Bring the plants indoors before temperatures drop in autumn.
Growing Tea Plants at Home
Tea plants in the garden require well drained, slightly acidic soil. An acidic mulch, such as pine needles, will help retain the proper soil pH. Full or dappled sunlight is ideal, as are temperatures between 55 and 90 F. (13-32 C). Avoid full shade, as tea plants in sun are more robust. Otherwise, tea plant care isn’t complicated. Water plants frequently during the first two years – generally two or three times per week during the summer, using rainwater whenever possible. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Saturate the rootball but don’t overwater, as tea plants don’t appreciate wet feet. Once the plants are well established, continue to water as needed during hot, dry weather. Spray or mist the leaves lightly during dry periods, as tea plants are tropical plants that thrive in humidity.
Pay close attention to tea plants grown in containers, and never allow the soil to become completely dry. Fertilize in spring and early summer, using a product formulated for camellia, azaleaand other acid-loving plants. Always water well before feeding tea plants in the garden, and immediately rinse any fertilizer that lands on the leaves. You can also use a water-soluble fertilizer.
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