文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月06日
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) is a native perennial shrub that blooms prolifically from mid-summer to mid-fall. During this time it will be attracting bees, birds, and butterflies. Hummingbirds are especially drawn to the flowers' typical red color.
This hummingbird magnet is a bushy shrub. The two-lipped flowers are usually red, though some offer shades of purple, pink, yellow, white, or violet. They bloom in whirls atop foliage that smells of mint and the small, downy green leaves are each about two inches long.
A versatile and lasting perennial, sometimes flowering starts with the autumn sage as early as spring and continues until the first frost. While flowering may decrease in the heat of summer, it will pick back up again in the fall.
Growing rapidly up to two to three feet tall and wide, this species mingles well in wildflower gardens or in conventional floral landscapes.
Botanical Name Salvia greggii
Common Name Autumn Sage, Cherry Sage, Gregg Salvia
Plant Type Native perennial flowering shrub
Mature Size 3 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist; well-draining; chalk, loam, or sand
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Mid-summer to mid-fall
Flower Color Pink, Rose/Mauve, Red, Yellow, White/Near White, Violet
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USDA
Native Area Mexico; North America (Southwest, specifically southern Texas and New Mexico)
Autumn Sage Care
Plant this small flowering shrub in a perennial border or as a low hedge. Welcome to beds, patios, and containers in a city or courtyard garden, a coastal garden, a gravel and rock garden, or among a more informal setting of a cottage-style flower patch.
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the purchased or propagated plant. Set it in the hole and gently place soil into the hole.
Light
Select a site with full sun. Autumn Sage can benefit from a sheltered position, though, generally, it needs a lot of light.
Soil
Give the plant moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
Water regularly after planting. Once established, plants require only average watering. Do not overwater; rainfall is usually enough.
Like most types of salvia, Autumn Sage does not do well with excess moisture. If the ground does not meet this need, consider planting in a container or in a xeriscape landscape.
Temperature & Humidity
Native to southern Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico, this type of salvia is tolerant to heat, humidity, and drought. Autumn Sage is generally hardy to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 Celsius). Any lower temperatures may cause damage or the plants to be completely lost. It can last as an evergreen in warmer climates.
Pruning
Cut individual stems at their main branch throughout the growing season, and prolong flowering by deadheading. Remove spent blooms at the stem. Gently pinch or pull the flower from its sepal, and toss it in the compost. Only let flowers drop on the soil if you want volunteer plants next season.
One way of pruning is shearing. This encourages new woody growth. If done once every two or three growing seasons, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally bushy plant.
Prune the shrub in its dormant months, before or after flowering, to prevent overcrowding. Cut off all the branches of the shrub down to its root, as close to the ground as possible. Do this at the end of each growing season, closer to the final flowering, to stimulate new growth.
Propagating Autumn Sage
Cuttings or transplants will produce a plant truer to its original type, as compared to seeds which may produce differences. In spring or early summer, propagate by basal cuttings or softwood cuttings. In late summer or autumn, propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. The rootball can also be divided into separate plants. Or, allow pods to dry on the plant and break them open to collect and properly clean the seeds. Sow seeds indoors before the last frost and outdoors directly after the last frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Keep an eye out for leafhoppers, slugs and snails, and rosemary beetles. Being nearly disease-free and deer resistant, the Autumn Sage plant is overall easy to maintain. Welcome this flowering shrub into your sunny garden and watch the flowers flourish for a long growing season.
This hummingbird magnet is a bushy shrub. The two-lipped flowers are usually red, though some offer shades of purple, pink, yellow, white, or violet. They bloom in whirls atop foliage that smells of mint and the small, downy green leaves are each about two inches long.
A versatile and lasting perennial, sometimes flowering starts with the autumn sage as early as spring and continues until the first frost. While flowering may decrease in the heat of summer, it will pick back up again in the fall.
Growing rapidly up to two to three feet tall and wide, this species mingles well in wildflower gardens or in conventional floral landscapes.
Botanical Name Salvia greggii
Common Name Autumn Sage, Cherry Sage, Gregg Salvia
Plant Type Native perennial flowering shrub
Mature Size 3 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist; well-draining; chalk, loam, or sand
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Mid-summer to mid-fall
Flower Color Pink, Rose/Mauve, Red, Yellow, White/Near White, Violet
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USDA
Native Area Mexico; North America (Southwest, specifically southern Texas and New Mexico)
Autumn Sage Care
Plant this small flowering shrub in a perennial border or as a low hedge. Welcome to beds, patios, and containers in a city or courtyard garden, a coastal garden, a gravel and rock garden, or among a more informal setting of a cottage-style flower patch.
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the purchased or propagated plant. Set it in the hole and gently place soil into the hole.
Light
Select a site with full sun. Autumn Sage can benefit from a sheltered position, though, generally, it needs a lot of light.
Soil
Give the plant moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
Water regularly after planting. Once established, plants require only average watering. Do not overwater; rainfall is usually enough.
Like most types of salvia, Autumn Sage does not do well with excess moisture. If the ground does not meet this need, consider planting in a container or in a xeriscape landscape.
Temperature & Humidity
Native to southern Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico, this type of salvia is tolerant to heat, humidity, and drought. Autumn Sage is generally hardy to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 Celsius). Any lower temperatures may cause damage or the plants to be completely lost. It can last as an evergreen in warmer climates.
Pruning
Cut individual stems at their main branch throughout the growing season, and prolong flowering by deadheading. Remove spent blooms at the stem. Gently pinch or pull the flower from its sepal, and toss it in the compost. Only let flowers drop on the soil if you want volunteer plants next season.
One way of pruning is shearing. This encourages new woody growth. If done once every two or three growing seasons, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally bushy plant.
Prune the shrub in its dormant months, before or after flowering, to prevent overcrowding. Cut off all the branches of the shrub down to its root, as close to the ground as possible. Do this at the end of each growing season, closer to the final flowering, to stimulate new growth.
Propagating Autumn Sage
Cuttings or transplants will produce a plant truer to its original type, as compared to seeds which may produce differences. In spring or early summer, propagate by basal cuttings or softwood cuttings. In late summer or autumn, propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. The rootball can also be divided into separate plants. Or, allow pods to dry on the plant and break them open to collect and properly clean the seeds. Sow seeds indoors before the last frost and outdoors directly after the last frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Keep an eye out for leafhoppers, slugs and snails, and rosemary beetles. Being nearly disease-free and deer resistant, the Autumn Sage plant is overall easy to maintain. Welcome this flowering shrub into your sunny garden and watch the flowers flourish for a long growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月18日
Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is a fairly small flowering shrub that is part of the honeysuckle family. It grows in an upright, rounded shape with stems of glossy green, oval foliage with toothed edges. The leaves are around 4 inches long. In the late spring, the shrub bears showy white flowers that stretch roughly 2 to 4 inches across. Blue-black fruits appear after the flowers and tend to attract birds and other wildlife. In the fall, the shrub’s foliage turns to shades of yellow, orange, and red. Arrowwood viburnum has a moderate growth rate. It can be planted in the spring or early fall.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月13日
Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is a deciduous shrub that is native to the eastern part of North America. It grows in an upright and fairly rounded shape. Its glossy, dark green leaves are around 1 to 3 inches long and either lanceolate or elliptical in shape. The foliage turns red to reddish-purple in the fall, providing striking color to the landscape before dropping off the plant for winter. Clusters of small five-petaled flowers appear in the spring, and purplish-black to black fruits that are around the size of blueberries appear in the late summer to fall. Black chokeberry has a slow to moderate growth rate and can be planted in the fall or spring.
Botanical Name Aronia melanocarpa
Common Names Black chokeberry, aronia berry, aronia, chokeberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zone 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Black Chokeberry Care
This shrub is highly adaptable and hardy. It can grow well in both moist and dry locations. Plus, ideally the soil pH should be acidic, but it can also grow in alkaline soil. And while it prefers soil that drains well, it is also tolerant of boggy soil. You can take advantage of the adaptability of black chokeberry when deciding how to use it in the landscape. For example, its tolerance of boggy soil makes it an excellent choice for wet areas where many other plants refuse to grow.
Because black chokeberry is so tolerant to many different growing conditions, it also tends to readily spread in the landscape. If you don't want multiple shrubs forming a thicket, you will have to monitor for and remove suckers around the base of the plant from which new plants with grow. Other than that, maintenance is very low for this shrub, as it will mostly take care of itself. It also generally doesn't have any major problems with pests or diseases. Plan to water during dry spells and prune annually to maintain its shape.
Light
You can plant a black chokeberry shrub in either full sun or partial shade. But you will get the best flowering and fruiting in locations with full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. In too much shade, the shrub will likely only minimally flower and fruit, and it will produce weak growth that ultimately could kill the plant.
Soil
A virtue of this shrub is how adaptable it is to a wide range of soils. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soil, though it prefers to grow in something in between those two. It also can handle some salt in the soil, making it a good option for a site near roadways that use road salt.
Water
Black chokeberry has moderate water needs. It can tolerate both the occasional drought and occasional flooding. But during prolonged dry spells and during particularly hot weather, it is ideal to give your shrub some water.
Temperature and Humidity
Black chokeberry has good tolerance for both the cold and hot temperatures of its growing zones. It flowers fairly late in the spring to avoid frost. But if there happens to be a late frost, this can damage the blooms and affect later fruiting for that growing season. So if your area does expect frost when your shrub is in bloom, consider covering the shrub with a sheet to protect it. Moreover, humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrub as long as there is good air circulation around the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Fertilizer
Black chokeberry likely won't need supplemental fertilization unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. You can mix compost into the soil when you plant your shrub to give its growth a boost. Then, each spring apply a light layer of compost for continued healthy growth.
Black Chokeberry Varieties
There are several varieties of black chokeberry that vary slightly in appearance, including:
‘Autumn Magic’: This shrub has a more compact growth habit than the main species plant but with large clusters of fruit.
‘Iroquois Beauty’: This variety also has a compact growth habit and features particularly vivid fall color.
‘Viking’: This variety is known for its large black fruit and also sports vivid fall color.
‘McKenzie’: This is a tall variety that can grow up to 12 feet.
Pruning
Besides removing suckers around the base of the shrub as needed to prevent unwanted new shrubs from growing, pruning will not be an extensive chore for the black chokeberry shrub. After the plant is done flowering in the spring, lightly prune the stems to shape the shrub to your liking. Also, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub as you spot them.
Botanical Name Aronia melanocarpa
Common Names Black chokeberry, aronia berry, aronia, chokeberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zone 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Black Chokeberry Care
This shrub is highly adaptable and hardy. It can grow well in both moist and dry locations. Plus, ideally the soil pH should be acidic, but it can also grow in alkaline soil. And while it prefers soil that drains well, it is also tolerant of boggy soil. You can take advantage of the adaptability of black chokeberry when deciding how to use it in the landscape. For example, its tolerance of boggy soil makes it an excellent choice for wet areas where many other plants refuse to grow.
Because black chokeberry is so tolerant to many different growing conditions, it also tends to readily spread in the landscape. If you don't want multiple shrubs forming a thicket, you will have to monitor for and remove suckers around the base of the plant from which new plants with grow. Other than that, maintenance is very low for this shrub, as it will mostly take care of itself. It also generally doesn't have any major problems with pests or diseases. Plan to water during dry spells and prune annually to maintain its shape.
Light
You can plant a black chokeberry shrub in either full sun or partial shade. But you will get the best flowering and fruiting in locations with full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. In too much shade, the shrub will likely only minimally flower and fruit, and it will produce weak growth that ultimately could kill the plant.
Soil
A virtue of this shrub is how adaptable it is to a wide range of soils. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soil, though it prefers to grow in something in between those two. It also can handle some salt in the soil, making it a good option for a site near roadways that use road salt.
Water
Black chokeberry has moderate water needs. It can tolerate both the occasional drought and occasional flooding. But during prolonged dry spells and during particularly hot weather, it is ideal to give your shrub some water.
Temperature and Humidity
Black chokeberry has good tolerance for both the cold and hot temperatures of its growing zones. It flowers fairly late in the spring to avoid frost. But if there happens to be a late frost, this can damage the blooms and affect later fruiting for that growing season. So if your area does expect frost when your shrub is in bloom, consider covering the shrub with a sheet to protect it. Moreover, humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrub as long as there is good air circulation around the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Fertilizer
Black chokeberry likely won't need supplemental fertilization unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. You can mix compost into the soil when you plant your shrub to give its growth a boost. Then, each spring apply a light layer of compost for continued healthy growth.
Black Chokeberry Varieties
There are several varieties of black chokeberry that vary slightly in appearance, including:
‘Autumn Magic’: This shrub has a more compact growth habit than the main species plant but with large clusters of fruit.
‘Iroquois Beauty’: This variety also has a compact growth habit and features particularly vivid fall color.
‘Viking’: This variety is known for its large black fruit and also sports vivid fall color.
‘McKenzie’: This is a tall variety that can grow up to 12 feet.
Pruning
Besides removing suckers around the base of the shrub as needed to prevent unwanted new shrubs from growing, pruning will not be an extensive chore for the black chokeberry shrub. After the plant is done flowering in the spring, lightly prune the stems to shape the shrub to your liking. Also, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub as you spot them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月04日
Angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), which also goes by the common name of pricklyburr, is a perennial flower that is native to warm climates. In cooler climates, it’s often grown as an annual. The plant has a small, shrub-like appearance, growing wider than it is tall. It features dark green, oval leaves that can reach up to 8 inches long and have a soft texture. And it blooms sporadically with fragrant, upward-facing, trumpet-shaped flowers in the summer and fall that can grow up to 7 inches long and 4 inches at their widest part.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月27日
The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a deciduous shrub that comes from North America. It is also known as the pie elder, American elder, black elderberry, elder-blow, sweet elder, or just elderberry. In late June, this fast-growing plant is covered with clusters of tiny white flowers that are followed by purplish-black fruit.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月15日
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) bears many blooms, and its attractive flowers are its main selling point. As with other types of hibiscus, its flowers bear a striking stamen. Another feature giving the shrub value is its relatively late period of blooming (in many northern climates, it blooms in August). Rose of Sharon is thus able to offer white, red, lavender, or light blue blooms when many flowering shrubs have long since ceased blooming. Late-summer flowering shrubs can help gardeners manage the sequence of bloom in their landscapes.
Rose of Sharon is classified by botanists as a shrub, but it can be pruned to form one main trunk so that it grows more like a tree. It can also be used for espalier. Its natural shrub form is multi-stemmed and vase-shaped. It has toothed green leaves that do not provide fall color. It can grow up to 24 inches each year and can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Hibiscus syriacus
Common Name Rose of Sharon, althea, Korean rose, rose mallow, Chinese hibiscus
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 8-12 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Late summer, early fall
Flower Color White, red, lavender, light blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area China, India
Toxicity Non-toxic
Rose of Sharon Care
Rose of Sharon is tolerant of air pollution, heat, humidity, poor soil, and drought.1 This species has naturalized well in many areas and can become invasive if its growth is not monitored.
This shrub is primarily used as a specimen plant, hedge plant, and foundation shrub. Its attractive and plentiful blooms make it fully capable of holding its own as a specimen. The ability to shape rose of Sharon also makes the shrub a prime candidate for hedges. But since this bush is deciduous, it is an effective privacy hedge only in summer (select one of the evergreen shrubs to gain privacy all year).
Light
Rose of Sharon prefers full sun. Older bushes may fall prey to fungal damage if they are grown in shaded areas where moisture is likely to be high.2
Soil
This plant thrives in rich soil. It can tolerate many soil types, including sand, clay, chalk, and loam. It prefers nutrient-rich soil but can survive in poor soil, too. Rose of Sharon thrives in a wide range of soil pH from 5.5 to 7.5.
Water
The plant is reasonably drought-tolerant. In fact, if your rose of Sharon has yellow leaves, it could be due to overwatering, rather than to a lack of water.3
Temperature and Humidity
A heat lover, this shrub is also prized by growers in the southeastern U.S. who seek plants that can stand up to summer's heat. It is also tolerant of a wide range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer is recommended (although not mandatory for established shrubs). Use a slow-release fertilizer for shrubs and trees, feeding in late winter or early spring. If you wish to grow organically, work compost gently into the soil around the root zone and water it into the earth.
Rose of Sharon Varieties
Rose of Sharon can be found in a number of different colors. These are some popular varieties:
'Blue Chiffon': This cultivar has double flowers with a purple-blue tinge (they're not really blue) that bloom from mid-summer into autumn. What makes the flower so beautiful is the presence of inner petals that surround the stamen, giving the flowers a frilly look. It grows 8 to 12 feet tall, with a spread of 6 to 10 feet.
'Sugar Tip': The name of this cultivar refers to its variegated leaves with creamy-white edging. It has pink double flowers and grows six to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide.
'White Chiffon': This variety is graced with white flowers that are solid: they have no distinct center, or throat, because the petal is totally white. The shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide.
'Red Heart': This shrub's flowers are ruffled and have a bicolored look with white petals and dark red centers. Lovers of low-maintenance landscaping will be glad to hear that this is a sterile cultivar, so there will not be any seedlings to remove.
Propagating Rose of Sharon
The best way to propagate rose of Sharon plants is by making stem cuttings and potting them.
Cut several pencil-wide branches of rose of Sharon that have several leaves or leaf buds. Cut the stems 4 to 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem.
Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone. Plant the bottom third or bottom half of each stem.
Place a piece of clear plastic over the top of each pot. Water well.
Put your pots in a spot with shade or indirect light. Remove the plastic in seven days. Check the pots every few days to make sure the potting mixture remains moist. Add more water if needed, but do not let the soil get soggy.
Check the cuttings for roots in one to two months. Pull gently on each stem; if it resists, the stem has rooted. You also should also see new leaves form on the branch stems that have rooted.
Grow them larger, at least 2 inches of growth, before planting them in the garden.
Pruning
Although naturally a multi-stemmed shrub, this plant can be trained through pruning to have just one main trunk; thus, some people refer to it as the rose of Sharon "tree." Prune in late winter or early spring, since this is one of the shrubs that blooms on the current season's growth. It is easiest to give rose of Sharon its desired shape by pruning it accordingly during its first two seasons. It can also be trained for espalier (grown flat against a supporting structure).
Also, do not give up on rose of Sharon, thinking it is dead just because it has not leafed out by early summer. This shrub not only blooms late but leaves out late as well, so be patient.
Common Pests/Diseases
The chief pest problem for this bush is Japanese beetle infestations.4 Japanese beetles are somewhat easier to control than many other insect pests because they are large enough to spot immediately before they have done too much damage to your plants. The easiest and safest way to kill them is to pick or shake them off by hand, dropping them into a container filled with soapy water. The insect breathes through its skin, so a coating of soap over its body effectively suffocates it.
Rose of Sharon is classified by botanists as a shrub, but it can be pruned to form one main trunk so that it grows more like a tree. It can also be used for espalier. Its natural shrub form is multi-stemmed and vase-shaped. It has toothed green leaves that do not provide fall color. It can grow up to 24 inches each year and can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Hibiscus syriacus
Common Name Rose of Sharon, althea, Korean rose, rose mallow, Chinese hibiscus
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 8-12 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Late summer, early fall
Flower Color White, red, lavender, light blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area China, India
Toxicity Non-toxic
Rose of Sharon Care
Rose of Sharon is tolerant of air pollution, heat, humidity, poor soil, and drought.1 This species has naturalized well in many areas and can become invasive if its growth is not monitored.
This shrub is primarily used as a specimen plant, hedge plant, and foundation shrub. Its attractive and plentiful blooms make it fully capable of holding its own as a specimen. The ability to shape rose of Sharon also makes the shrub a prime candidate for hedges. But since this bush is deciduous, it is an effective privacy hedge only in summer (select one of the evergreen shrubs to gain privacy all year).
Light
Rose of Sharon prefers full sun. Older bushes may fall prey to fungal damage if they are grown in shaded areas where moisture is likely to be high.2
Soil
This plant thrives in rich soil. It can tolerate many soil types, including sand, clay, chalk, and loam. It prefers nutrient-rich soil but can survive in poor soil, too. Rose of Sharon thrives in a wide range of soil pH from 5.5 to 7.5.
Water
The plant is reasonably drought-tolerant. In fact, if your rose of Sharon has yellow leaves, it could be due to overwatering, rather than to a lack of water.3
Temperature and Humidity
A heat lover, this shrub is also prized by growers in the southeastern U.S. who seek plants that can stand up to summer's heat. It is also tolerant of a wide range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer is recommended (although not mandatory for established shrubs). Use a slow-release fertilizer for shrubs and trees, feeding in late winter or early spring. If you wish to grow organically, work compost gently into the soil around the root zone and water it into the earth.
Rose of Sharon Varieties
Rose of Sharon can be found in a number of different colors. These are some popular varieties:
'Blue Chiffon': This cultivar has double flowers with a purple-blue tinge (they're not really blue) that bloom from mid-summer into autumn. What makes the flower so beautiful is the presence of inner petals that surround the stamen, giving the flowers a frilly look. It grows 8 to 12 feet tall, with a spread of 6 to 10 feet.
'Sugar Tip': The name of this cultivar refers to its variegated leaves with creamy-white edging. It has pink double flowers and grows six to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide.
'White Chiffon': This variety is graced with white flowers that are solid: they have no distinct center, or throat, because the petal is totally white. The shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide.
'Red Heart': This shrub's flowers are ruffled and have a bicolored look with white petals and dark red centers. Lovers of low-maintenance landscaping will be glad to hear that this is a sterile cultivar, so there will not be any seedlings to remove.
Propagating Rose of Sharon
The best way to propagate rose of Sharon plants is by making stem cuttings and potting them.
Cut several pencil-wide branches of rose of Sharon that have several leaves or leaf buds. Cut the stems 4 to 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem.
Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone. Plant the bottom third or bottom half of each stem.
Place a piece of clear plastic over the top of each pot. Water well.
Put your pots in a spot with shade or indirect light. Remove the plastic in seven days. Check the pots every few days to make sure the potting mixture remains moist. Add more water if needed, but do not let the soil get soggy.
Check the cuttings for roots in one to two months. Pull gently on each stem; if it resists, the stem has rooted. You also should also see new leaves form on the branch stems that have rooted.
Grow them larger, at least 2 inches of growth, before planting them in the garden.
Pruning
Although naturally a multi-stemmed shrub, this plant can be trained through pruning to have just one main trunk; thus, some people refer to it as the rose of Sharon "tree." Prune in late winter or early spring, since this is one of the shrubs that blooms on the current season's growth. It is easiest to give rose of Sharon its desired shape by pruning it accordingly during its first two seasons. It can also be trained for espalier (grown flat against a supporting structure).
Also, do not give up on rose of Sharon, thinking it is dead just because it has not leafed out by early summer. This shrub not only blooms late but leaves out late as well, so be patient.
Common Pests/Diseases
The chief pest problem for this bush is Japanese beetle infestations.4 Japanese beetles are somewhat easier to control than many other insect pests because they are large enough to spot immediately before they have done too much damage to your plants. The easiest and safest way to kill them is to pick or shake them off by hand, dropping them into a container filled with soapy water. The insect breathes through its skin, so a coating of soap over its body effectively suffocates it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white.
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月24日
Distribution and habitat: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent sub-shrub native of Madagascar. It is found on granite rocks, growing up to 45cm (1.5 feet) tall.
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月20日
Distribution and habitat: Aeonium arboreum is a subtropical succulent sub-shrub native to the hillsides of the Canary Islands where their natural range includes arid desert regions.
It bears rosettes of leaves and large pyramidal panicles of bright yellow flowers in the spring. Each rosette that bloom will die.
Description: Aeonium arboreum is a treelike in that its woody stems branch out freely, but it is unlikely to exceed 90cm (3 feet) in height. The 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long leaves of its rosettes are spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches.
These plants grow quickly and produce abundant small, star-like, bisexual, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. New plants can be started from the seed.
Proper care: In regions where winters are cool, Aeonium arboreum plants appreciate summer sun outdoors and then can grow indoors as houseplants when weather cools.
Aeonium arboreum plants are quick growers. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, the broken stem can be used for propagation.
The plants tend to go dormant in the summer and look a little tired sometimes, but they perk up again in the fall. Care should be taken with these plants to avoid overwatering.
Light: To keep their form, Aeonium arboreum need full sunlight, even during rest periods when they are not actively growing. Too lithe light will result in elongate, prematurely falling leaves and gap rosettes.
Temperature: Aeonium arboreum grow well in warm rooms about 18 to 24°C (64-75°F), but like most other succulents – they are not tropical plants. If possible they should be encouraged to rest during the winter months by being moved to a cool place – preferable around 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water Aeonium arboreum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top 1cm (0.4 inch) of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
During the rest period, allow half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Less than this will result in shriveled leaves. On the other hand, over-watering will encourage soft, untypical leaf growth, which is likely to droop.
Feeding: Use liquid fertiliser about every two weeks during the active growth period only.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part coarse sand or a substance such as perlite added to two parts of a standard soil based mixture. Because Aeonium arboreum can grow quickly, the taller kinds should be moved into pots one size larger every year, preferably just as new growth begins. Newly potted plants should be especially firmly pressed into the potting mixture and taller Aeonium arboreum must be staked.
Gardening: The Aeonium arboreum thrives in temperatures that range from 4 to 38°C (40-100°F). During the winter, it will grow best with nighttime temperatures of 10°C (50°F). These succulents can be interesting and fun plants to grow, thriving outdoors in areas with dry summers and warm winters. The ideal climates are Mediterranean- relatively dry with seasonal rainfall (preferably in winters, not summers) and no freezes. Growing these plants in the tropics, the hot deserts or where it snows will be very difficult.
These plants are suitable for pots and they can be moved in and out depending on weather situations. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground.
Position: Aeonium arboreum grows best in full sun during the cooler months and when grown in coastal areas. When grown inland or during the summer, provide these succulents with afternoon or partial shade. Avoid placing Aeonium arboreum plants in sites with western sun exposures.
Soil: Though Aeonium arboreum tolerate a variety of soil types – as long as the soil is well-drained – it prefers light, porous soil. Is recommended to amend the planting site with sand and limestone chips. For container gardening, plant Aeonium arboreum in a moderately moist medium with excellent drainage such as a planting mix that includes 2 parts sand, 1 part loam and 1 part peat moss with a handful of small gravel pieces thrown in to enhance drainage.
Although it is recommended to place a thin layer of inorganic mulch, such as ornamental rock, around the plants.
Irrigation: Water Aeonium arboreum plants deeply but infrequently. Allow them to dry thoroughly in-between waterings. In the wild, these succulents go dormant in summer, so water sparingly during the hotter months, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Watering during the summer is require only in very dry conditions.
During the winter months restrict water to about once a month or just enough to keep the foliage from shriveling. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
It growing these succulents along the coast, the humidity and rains or mist will often be enough to satisfy the water needs of these plants. But in dry climates they will probably need to be watered frequently or put on drip irrigation. They do not need to be thoroughly watered, though as the main water-absorbing roots are near the surface with the deeper roots functioning nearly solely as support.
Fertilisation: The Aeonium arboreum does not require much fertilizer. Two to three applications of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Aeonium arboreum are easy to propagate from tip cuttings. The best time to do this is early in the growth period. Cleanly detach a complete rosette together with 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) of stem, dip the stem into hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting and plant it is a moistened mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or a substance such as perlite.
Cuttings will root in two to there weeks in a warm room – 18 to 24°C (64-75°F) if given bright light and watered only enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. They can then be repotted in the potting mixture that is used for mature plants.
Propagate by seed sown at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in spring, but is a slow propagation method.
Problems: Aeonium arboreum plants enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems or growing tips and roots. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter.
Though Aeonium arboreum is not particularly susceptible to infestations, insect pests include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips.
Treatment: Combat these insects with horticultural soaps or neem oil. However, care should be taken when using soap spays as too frequent spraying can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
If an Aeonium arboreum succulent is planted in a site with poor drainage, its roots may rot.
Treatment: Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy.
Temperatures below minus 7°C (20°F) will badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 38°C (100°F) will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry.
Slugs, snails, deer, grasshoppers can do some damage to Aeonium arboreum plants and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Lifespan: Aeonium arboreum is a monocarpic species, meaning that it dies after flowering. It is expected to live about 3 to 10 years as it reach its full maturity. Although their yellow flowers are attractive, each time they bloom, a rosette dies. Flowering can be avoided by clipping off the flowerheads as they begin to emerge. Also, this succulent can be preserved in time by cutting the terminal rosette every year in late winter and propagating it by planting the rosette at the plant’s base, where it will form roots, creating a new Aeonium arboreum plant.
Recommended varieties:
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum (Dark Purple Houseleek Tree, Black rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) has a slightly smaller deep purple leaves, but the colouring loses intensity if the plant is grown in full sunlight.
Aeonium arboreum cv. Schwarzkopf (Aeonium Blacktop, Black Rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) is a variety with almost black foliage.
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum is a variety with white margined leaves.
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum forma cristata (Crested Black rose, Crested Black Beauty, Crested Black Tree Aeonium) is a crested succulent shrub that produces magnificent, fun shaped purple, leaf rosettes at the ends of its branches and seems to to change in and out of its crested mode during the years.
Companion plants: Consider growing Aeonium arboreum as part of a cactus or succulent display. It can be combined with other plants such as Aloe, Agave, Crassula (jade plants), evergreen Echeverias species or can be combined with other members of its own genus.
Note: Aeonium species are often confused with Echeverias species or other several rosette-like succulents such as Dudleyas, Graptopetalums, Pachyverias and Graptoverias species.
One thing that sets these plants apart is the way their leaves attach to the stem – they are wrapped around the stem with a fibrous attachment so that when a leaf is pulled away, the stem is intact with only a transverse line showing where the leaf was attached. The other rosette Crassulaceas have succulent attachments and their being pulled off the stem leaves a divot in the stem.
Uses and display: Aeonium arboreum make excellent bedding plants, since their architectural shape contrasts well with most other bedding plants. When grown in the garden, Aeonium arboreum command the most attention in masses. Place them along sunny borders or in rockeries or they can be used as part of xeriscaping, being drought tolerant plants. These succulents are often used in architectural city and courtyard gardens in coastal mediterranean sub-tropical climate. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow a new one in spring.
Aeonium arboreum can also be used effectively planted in containers and grown indoors. Consider growing them as part of a cactus or succulent display. Aeonium arboreum is a tall variety with bonsai like look when they get shrubby. They can be trimmed if they get leggy.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green or coloured
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 90cm (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 18°C max 24°C (64-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
It bears rosettes of leaves and large pyramidal panicles of bright yellow flowers in the spring. Each rosette that bloom will die.
Description: Aeonium arboreum is a treelike in that its woody stems branch out freely, but it is unlikely to exceed 90cm (3 feet) in height. The 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long leaves of its rosettes are spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches.
These plants grow quickly and produce abundant small, star-like, bisexual, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. New plants can be started from the seed.
Proper care: In regions where winters are cool, Aeonium arboreum plants appreciate summer sun outdoors and then can grow indoors as houseplants when weather cools.
Aeonium arboreum plants are quick growers. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, the broken stem can be used for propagation.
The plants tend to go dormant in the summer and look a little tired sometimes, but they perk up again in the fall. Care should be taken with these plants to avoid overwatering.
Light: To keep their form, Aeonium arboreum need full sunlight, even during rest periods when they are not actively growing. Too lithe light will result in elongate, prematurely falling leaves and gap rosettes.
Temperature: Aeonium arboreum grow well in warm rooms about 18 to 24°C (64-75°F), but like most other succulents – they are not tropical plants. If possible they should be encouraged to rest during the winter months by being moved to a cool place – preferable around 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water Aeonium arboreum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top 1cm (0.4 inch) of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
During the rest period, allow half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Less than this will result in shriveled leaves. On the other hand, over-watering will encourage soft, untypical leaf growth, which is likely to droop.
Feeding: Use liquid fertiliser about every two weeks during the active growth period only.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part coarse sand or a substance such as perlite added to two parts of a standard soil based mixture. Because Aeonium arboreum can grow quickly, the taller kinds should be moved into pots one size larger every year, preferably just as new growth begins. Newly potted plants should be especially firmly pressed into the potting mixture and taller Aeonium arboreum must be staked.
Gardening: The Aeonium arboreum thrives in temperatures that range from 4 to 38°C (40-100°F). During the winter, it will grow best with nighttime temperatures of 10°C (50°F). These succulents can be interesting and fun plants to grow, thriving outdoors in areas with dry summers and warm winters. The ideal climates are Mediterranean- relatively dry with seasonal rainfall (preferably in winters, not summers) and no freezes. Growing these plants in the tropics, the hot deserts or where it snows will be very difficult.
These plants are suitable for pots and they can be moved in and out depending on weather situations. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground.
Position: Aeonium arboreum grows best in full sun during the cooler months and when grown in coastal areas. When grown inland or during the summer, provide these succulents with afternoon or partial shade. Avoid placing Aeonium arboreum plants in sites with western sun exposures.
Soil: Though Aeonium arboreum tolerate a variety of soil types – as long as the soil is well-drained – it prefers light, porous soil. Is recommended to amend the planting site with sand and limestone chips. For container gardening, plant Aeonium arboreum in a moderately moist medium with excellent drainage such as a planting mix that includes 2 parts sand, 1 part loam and 1 part peat moss with a handful of small gravel pieces thrown in to enhance drainage.
Although it is recommended to place a thin layer of inorganic mulch, such as ornamental rock, around the plants.
Irrigation: Water Aeonium arboreum plants deeply but infrequently. Allow them to dry thoroughly in-between waterings. In the wild, these succulents go dormant in summer, so water sparingly during the hotter months, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Watering during the summer is require only in very dry conditions.
During the winter months restrict water to about once a month or just enough to keep the foliage from shriveling. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
It growing these succulents along the coast, the humidity and rains or mist will often be enough to satisfy the water needs of these plants. But in dry climates they will probably need to be watered frequently or put on drip irrigation. They do not need to be thoroughly watered, though as the main water-absorbing roots are near the surface with the deeper roots functioning nearly solely as support.
Fertilisation: The Aeonium arboreum does not require much fertilizer. Two to three applications of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Aeonium arboreum are easy to propagate from tip cuttings. The best time to do this is early in the growth period. Cleanly detach a complete rosette together with 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) of stem, dip the stem into hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting and plant it is a moistened mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or a substance such as perlite.
Cuttings will root in two to there weeks in a warm room – 18 to 24°C (64-75°F) if given bright light and watered only enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. They can then be repotted in the potting mixture that is used for mature plants.
Propagate by seed sown at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in spring, but is a slow propagation method.
Problems: Aeonium arboreum plants enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems or growing tips and roots. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter.
Though Aeonium arboreum is not particularly susceptible to infestations, insect pests include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips.
Treatment: Combat these insects with horticultural soaps or neem oil. However, care should be taken when using soap spays as too frequent spraying can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
If an Aeonium arboreum succulent is planted in a site with poor drainage, its roots may rot.
Treatment: Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy.
Temperatures below minus 7°C (20°F) will badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 38°C (100°F) will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry.
Slugs, snails, deer, grasshoppers can do some damage to Aeonium arboreum plants and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Lifespan: Aeonium arboreum is a monocarpic species, meaning that it dies after flowering. It is expected to live about 3 to 10 years as it reach its full maturity. Although their yellow flowers are attractive, each time they bloom, a rosette dies. Flowering can be avoided by clipping off the flowerheads as they begin to emerge. Also, this succulent can be preserved in time by cutting the terminal rosette every year in late winter and propagating it by planting the rosette at the plant’s base, where it will form roots, creating a new Aeonium arboreum plant.
Recommended varieties:
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum (Dark Purple Houseleek Tree, Black rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) has a slightly smaller deep purple leaves, but the colouring loses intensity if the plant is grown in full sunlight.
Aeonium arboreum cv. Schwarzkopf (Aeonium Blacktop, Black Rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) is a variety with almost black foliage.
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum is a variety with white margined leaves.
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum forma cristata (Crested Black rose, Crested Black Beauty, Crested Black Tree Aeonium) is a crested succulent shrub that produces magnificent, fun shaped purple, leaf rosettes at the ends of its branches and seems to to change in and out of its crested mode during the years.
Companion plants: Consider growing Aeonium arboreum as part of a cactus or succulent display. It can be combined with other plants such as Aloe, Agave, Crassula (jade plants), evergreen Echeverias species or can be combined with other members of its own genus.
Note: Aeonium species are often confused with Echeverias species or other several rosette-like succulents such as Dudleyas, Graptopetalums, Pachyverias and Graptoverias species.
One thing that sets these plants apart is the way their leaves attach to the stem – they are wrapped around the stem with a fibrous attachment so that when a leaf is pulled away, the stem is intact with only a transverse line showing where the leaf was attached. The other rosette Crassulaceas have succulent attachments and their being pulled off the stem leaves a divot in the stem.
Uses and display: Aeonium arboreum make excellent bedding plants, since their architectural shape contrasts well with most other bedding plants. When grown in the garden, Aeonium arboreum command the most attention in masses. Place them along sunny borders or in rockeries or they can be used as part of xeriscaping, being drought tolerant plants. These succulents are often used in architectural city and courtyard gardens in coastal mediterranean sub-tropical climate. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow a new one in spring.
Aeonium arboreum can also be used effectively planted in containers and grown indoors. Consider growing them as part of a cactus or succulent display. Aeonium arboreum is a tall variety with bonsai like look when they get shrubby. They can be trimmed if they get leggy.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green or coloured
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 90cm (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 18°C max 24°C (64-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
ritau
2020年06月29日
The pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between 5 and 10 m (16 and 33 ft) tall.
The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India, and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region. It was introduced into Spanish America in the late 16th century and into California by Spanish settlers in 1769.
The fruit is typically in season in the Northern Hemisphere from September to February, and in the Southern Hemisphere from March to May. As intact sarcotestas or juice, pomegranates are used in baking, cooking, juice blends, meal garnishes, smoothies, and alcoholic beverages, such as cocktails and wine.
Today, it is widely cultivated throughout the Middle East and Caucasus region, north and tropical Africa, the Indian subcontinent, Central Asia, the drier parts of southeast Asia, and parts of the Mediterranean Basin. It is also cultivated in parts of Arizona and the San Joaquin Valley in California. In the 20th and 21st centuries, it has become more common in the shops and markets of Europe and the Western Hemisphere.
The name pomegranate derives from medieval Latin pōmum "apple" and grānātum "seeded". Possibly stemming from the old French word for the fruit, pomme-grenade, the pomegranate was known in early English as "apple of Grenada"—a term which today survives only in heraldic blazons. This is a folk etymology, confusing the Latin granatus with the name of the Spanish city of Granada, which derives from Arabic.
Garnet derives from Old French grenat by metathesis, from Medieval Latin granatum as used in a different meaning "of a dark red color". This derivation may have originated from pomum granatum, describing the color of pomegranate pulp, or from granum, referring to "red dye, cochineal".
The French term for pomegranate, grenade, has given its name to the military grenade.
*Nutrition
A 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of pomegranate sarcotesta provides 12% of the Daily Value (DV) for vitamin C, 16% DV for vitamin K and 10% DV for folate (table).
Pomegranate seeds are a rich source of dietary fiber (20% DV) which is entirely contained in the edible seeds. People who choose to discard the seeds forfeit nutritional benefits conveyed by the seed fiber and micronutrients.
*Symbolism
-Ancient Egypt
Ancient Egyptians regarded the pomegranate as a symbol of prosperity and ambition. It was referred to by the Semitic names of jnhm or nhm.According to the Ebers Papyrus, one of the oldest medical writings from around 1500 BC, Egyptians used the pomegranate for treatment of tapeworm and other infections.
-Ancient and Modern Greece
The Greeks were familiar with the fruit far before it was introduced to Rome via Carthage, and it figures in multiple myths and artworks. In Ancient Greek mythology, the pomegranate was known as the "fruit of the dead", and believed to have sprung from the blood of Adonis.
The myth of Persephone, the goddess of the underworld, prominently features her consumption of pomegranate seeds, requiring her to spend a certain number of months in the underworld every year. The number of seeds and therefore months varies. During the months, while Persephone sits on the throne of the underworld beside her husband Hades, her mother Demeter mourned and no longer gave fertility to the earth. This was an ancient Greek explanation for the seasons.
According to Carl A. P. Ruck and Danny Staples, the chambered pomegranate is also a surrogate for the poppy's narcotic capsule, with its comparable shape and chambered interior. On a Mycenaean seal illustrated in Joseph Campbell's Occidental Mythology (1964), figure 19, the seated Goddess of the double-headed axe (the labrys) offers three poppy pods in her right hand and supports her breast with her left. She embodies both aspects of the dual goddess, life-giving and death-dealing at once.
The Titan Orion was represented as "marrying" Side, a name that in Boeotia means "pomegranate", thus consecrating the primal hunter to the Goddess.
In the 5th century BC, Polycleitus took ivory and gold to sculpt the seated Argive Hera in her temple. She held a scepter in one hand and offered a pomegranate, like a "royal orb", in the other. "About the pomegranate I must say nothing," whispered the traveller Pausanias in the 2nd century, "for its story is somewhat of a holy mystery."The pomegranate has a calyx shaped like a crown. In Jewish tradition, it has been seen as the original "design" for the proper crown.
A pomegranate is displayed on coins from Side. The ancient Greek city of Side was in Pamphylia, a former region on the southern Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor (modern-day Antalya province, Turkey).
Within the Heraion at the mouth of the Sele, near Paestum, Magna Graecia, is a chapel devoted to the Madonna del Granato, "Our Lady of the Pomegranate", "who by virtue of her epithet and the attribute of a pomegranate must be the Christian successor of the ancient Greek goddess Hera", observes the excavator of the Heraion of Samos, Helmut Kyrieleis.
In modern times, the pomegranate still holds strong symbolic meanings for the Greeks. When one buys a new home, it is conventional for a house guest to bring as a first gift a pomegranate, which is placed under/near the ikonostasi (home altar) of the house, as a symbol of abundance, fertility, and good luck. When Greeks commemorate their dead, they make kollyva as offerings, which consist of boiled wheat, mixed with sugar and decorated with pomegranate. Pomegranate decorations for the home are very common in Greece and sold in most home goods stores.
-China
The pomegranate is regarded as a symbol of fertility in China.
Introduced to China during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), the pomegranate (Chinese: 石榴; pinyin: shíliu) in olden times was considered an emblem of fertility and numerous progeny. This symbolism is a pun on the Chinese character 子 (zǐ) which, as well as meaning seed, also means "offspring" thus a fruit containing so many seeds is a sign of fecundity. Pictures of the ripe fruit with the seeds bursting forth were often hung in homes to bestow fertility and bless the dwelling with numerous offspring, an important facet of traditional Chinese culture.
-In European Christian motifs
Detail from Madonna of the Pomegranate by Sandro Botticelli, c. 1487 (Uffizi Gallery, Florence)
In the earliest incontrovertible appearance of Christ in a mosaic, a 4th-century floor mosaic from Hinton St Mary, Dorset, now in the British Museum, the bust of Christ and the chi rho are flanked by pomegranates. Pomegranates continue to be a motif often found in Christian religious decoration. They are often woven into the fabric of vestments and liturgical hangings or wrought in metalwork. Pomegranates figure in many religious paintings by the likes of Sandro Botticelli and Leonardo da Vinci, often in the hands of the Virgin Mary or the infant Jesus. The fruit, broken or bursting open, is a symbol of the fullness of Jesus' suffering and resurrection.
In the Eastern Orthodox Church, pomegranate seeds may be used in kolyva, a dish prepared for memorial services, as a symbol of the sweetness of the heavenly kingdom.
The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India, and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region. It was introduced into Spanish America in the late 16th century and into California by Spanish settlers in 1769.
The fruit is typically in season in the Northern Hemisphere from September to February, and in the Southern Hemisphere from March to May. As intact sarcotestas or juice, pomegranates are used in baking, cooking, juice blends, meal garnishes, smoothies, and alcoholic beverages, such as cocktails and wine.
Today, it is widely cultivated throughout the Middle East and Caucasus region, north and tropical Africa, the Indian subcontinent, Central Asia, the drier parts of southeast Asia, and parts of the Mediterranean Basin. It is also cultivated in parts of Arizona and the San Joaquin Valley in California. In the 20th and 21st centuries, it has become more common in the shops and markets of Europe and the Western Hemisphere.
The name pomegranate derives from medieval Latin pōmum "apple" and grānātum "seeded". Possibly stemming from the old French word for the fruit, pomme-grenade, the pomegranate was known in early English as "apple of Grenada"—a term which today survives only in heraldic blazons. This is a folk etymology, confusing the Latin granatus with the name of the Spanish city of Granada, which derives from Arabic.
Garnet derives from Old French grenat by metathesis, from Medieval Latin granatum as used in a different meaning "of a dark red color". This derivation may have originated from pomum granatum, describing the color of pomegranate pulp, or from granum, referring to "red dye, cochineal".
The French term for pomegranate, grenade, has given its name to the military grenade.
*Nutrition
A 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of pomegranate sarcotesta provides 12% of the Daily Value (DV) for vitamin C, 16% DV for vitamin K and 10% DV for folate (table).
Pomegranate seeds are a rich source of dietary fiber (20% DV) which is entirely contained in the edible seeds. People who choose to discard the seeds forfeit nutritional benefits conveyed by the seed fiber and micronutrients.
*Symbolism
-Ancient Egypt
Ancient Egyptians regarded the pomegranate as a symbol of prosperity and ambition. It was referred to by the Semitic names of jnhm or nhm.According to the Ebers Papyrus, one of the oldest medical writings from around 1500 BC, Egyptians used the pomegranate for treatment of tapeworm and other infections.
-Ancient and Modern Greece
The Greeks were familiar with the fruit far before it was introduced to Rome via Carthage, and it figures in multiple myths and artworks. In Ancient Greek mythology, the pomegranate was known as the "fruit of the dead", and believed to have sprung from the blood of Adonis.
The myth of Persephone, the goddess of the underworld, prominently features her consumption of pomegranate seeds, requiring her to spend a certain number of months in the underworld every year. The number of seeds and therefore months varies. During the months, while Persephone sits on the throne of the underworld beside her husband Hades, her mother Demeter mourned and no longer gave fertility to the earth. This was an ancient Greek explanation for the seasons.
According to Carl A. P. Ruck and Danny Staples, the chambered pomegranate is also a surrogate for the poppy's narcotic capsule, with its comparable shape and chambered interior. On a Mycenaean seal illustrated in Joseph Campbell's Occidental Mythology (1964), figure 19, the seated Goddess of the double-headed axe (the labrys) offers three poppy pods in her right hand and supports her breast with her left. She embodies both aspects of the dual goddess, life-giving and death-dealing at once.
The Titan Orion was represented as "marrying" Side, a name that in Boeotia means "pomegranate", thus consecrating the primal hunter to the Goddess.
In the 5th century BC, Polycleitus took ivory and gold to sculpt the seated Argive Hera in her temple. She held a scepter in one hand and offered a pomegranate, like a "royal orb", in the other. "About the pomegranate I must say nothing," whispered the traveller Pausanias in the 2nd century, "for its story is somewhat of a holy mystery."The pomegranate has a calyx shaped like a crown. In Jewish tradition, it has been seen as the original "design" for the proper crown.
A pomegranate is displayed on coins from Side. The ancient Greek city of Side was in Pamphylia, a former region on the southern Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor (modern-day Antalya province, Turkey).
Within the Heraion at the mouth of the Sele, near Paestum, Magna Graecia, is a chapel devoted to the Madonna del Granato, "Our Lady of the Pomegranate", "who by virtue of her epithet and the attribute of a pomegranate must be the Christian successor of the ancient Greek goddess Hera", observes the excavator of the Heraion of Samos, Helmut Kyrieleis.
In modern times, the pomegranate still holds strong symbolic meanings for the Greeks. When one buys a new home, it is conventional for a house guest to bring as a first gift a pomegranate, which is placed under/near the ikonostasi (home altar) of the house, as a symbol of abundance, fertility, and good luck. When Greeks commemorate their dead, they make kollyva as offerings, which consist of boiled wheat, mixed with sugar and decorated with pomegranate. Pomegranate decorations for the home are very common in Greece and sold in most home goods stores.
-China
The pomegranate is regarded as a symbol of fertility in China.
Introduced to China during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), the pomegranate (Chinese: 石榴; pinyin: shíliu) in olden times was considered an emblem of fertility and numerous progeny. This symbolism is a pun on the Chinese character 子 (zǐ) which, as well as meaning seed, also means "offspring" thus a fruit containing so many seeds is a sign of fecundity. Pictures of the ripe fruit with the seeds bursting forth were often hung in homes to bestow fertility and bless the dwelling with numerous offspring, an important facet of traditional Chinese culture.
-In European Christian motifs
Detail from Madonna of the Pomegranate by Sandro Botticelli, c. 1487 (Uffizi Gallery, Florence)
In the earliest incontrovertible appearance of Christ in a mosaic, a 4th-century floor mosaic from Hinton St Mary, Dorset, now in the British Museum, the bust of Christ and the chi rho are flanked by pomegranates. Pomegranates continue to be a motif often found in Christian religious decoration. They are often woven into the fabric of vestments and liturgical hangings or wrought in metalwork. Pomegranates figure in many religious paintings by the likes of Sandro Botticelli and Leonardo da Vinci, often in the hands of the Virgin Mary or the infant Jesus. The fruit, broken or bursting open, is a symbol of the fullness of Jesus' suffering and resurrection.
In the Eastern Orthodox Church, pomegranate seeds may be used in kolyva, a dish prepared for memorial services, as a symbol of the sweetness of the heavenly kingdom.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
If you're growing a weigela (Weigela spp.) or you're thinking of planting one, you probably know that it's an especially easy-to-grow shrub. A tough plant that has masses of colorful flowers in late spring or early summer, a weigela is cold-tolerant and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Whatever type of weigela you grow, it's a good idea to give it a bit of extra care as winter approaches and at winters end to help keep it flourishing.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Dracaena corn plants (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') belong within the family Agavaceae. This evergreen, perennial shrub thrives outdoors in frost-free areas of the United States. Plants grow slowly, reaching up to 15 feet tall at maturity. Sword-like leaves reach up to 1 foot long and grow in bunches at the top of tall trunks, or canes. Plumes of fragrant white flowers bloom periodically year-round. Plants are suitable used as specimens, houseplants, or grown in containers or planters. Gardeners can prune corn plants to control its size, or start new plants from the cuttings.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Cordyline fruticosa, also called Hawaiian ti, is an evergreen shrub that performs well grown outside in warm and humid, frost-free climates. It is hardy and requires little care growing throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. It works well planted in containers and grown indoors or outside on patios. The plant is palmlike, growing up to 10 feet in height. Depending on the cultivar, the glossy foliage is purplish-red, green or streaked with combinations of purples, reds, white or yellow. In springtime, mature plants produce small yellow or reddish blooms.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
Description: This shrub is 1-3' tall, branching occasionally. The woody branches near the base of this shrub have yellowish brown to reddish brown bark that often becomes shredded into white strips or narrow sheets. Young stems are light green, glabrous, and 4-angled. Pairs of opposite primary leaves occur along the young stems. In addition, there are often clusters of smaller secondary leaves near the axils of the opposite primary leaves. These leaves are up to 2" long and 8 mm. (1/3") across; they are linear-oblong to oblanceolate in shape and their margins are entire (toothless) and revolute (rolled downward). The upper leaf surface is bluish green to medium green, glabrous, and sometimes glaucous, while the lower leaf surface is light green, glabrous, and sometimes glaucous. All leaves are sessile or nearly so. The upper stems terminate in corymbs or compound corymbs of 3-7 flowers.
Each flower is about 1–1¼" across, consisting of 5 spreading yellow petals, 5 light green or light yellow sepals, a light yellow pistil with 5 styles (the latter are often united), and numerous conspicuous stamens. The petals are broadly oblong or obovate in shape, while the sepals are lanceolate; the petals are about twice the length of the sepals. The filaments of the stamens are light yellow, while the anthers are medium yellow or golden yellow. The pedicels of the flowers are up to ¾" long, light green, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to late summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules about 8 mm. (1/3") long that are lanceoloid in shape and 5-lobed. The interior of each seed capsule has 5 completely separated cells; there are numerous seeds in each cell. These seeds are dark-colored, narrowly oblongoid, and somewhat flattened. The woody root system is shallow and spreading.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil containing calcareous sand or limestone. Shallow water is tolerated if it is temporary. This shrub is winter-hardy to Zone 4.
Range & Habitat: Kalm's St. John's Wort occurs in NE Illinois along Lake Michigan, where it is native (see Distribution Map). In Illinois, this shrub is rare and state-listed as 'endangered.' It is endemic to the Great Lakes Region. Habitats include interdunal swales, borders of small sandy ponds, moist to wet sandy meadows, and moist sand flats (pannes). Outside of Illinois, Kalm's St. John's Wort occurs on limestone flats (alvars). This shrub is found in high quality natural areas. It is also cultivated occasionally in gardens because of its showy flowers.
Faunal Associations: Mostly various bees visit the flowers, where they collect pollen. Nectar is not available as a floral reward. Grundel et al. (2011) observed a leaf-cutting bee (Megachile montivaga) and Halictid bees (Augochlorella aurata, Lasioglossum pectorale) visiting the flowers of Kalm's St. John's Wort. Two oligophagous aphids suck the sap of this shrub: Aphis mizzou and Aphis hyperici. The caterpillars of an oligophagous moth, Nedra ramosula (Gray Half-spot), feeds on St. John's Wort species (Hypericum spp.), while the caterpillars of two polyphagous moths, Eupithecia miserulata (Common Pug) and Synchlora aerata (Wavy-lined Emerald), sometimes feed on the flowers (Lagos et al., 2012; Covell, 1984/2005; Wagner, 2005).
Kalm's St. John's Wort is rarely browsed by White-tail Deer. In places where this animal is abundant, this shrub has a tendency to increase because of selective browsing (Bradstreet & Bowles, 2002). The leaves of St. John's Wort species are somewhat toxic to domesticated farm animals, particularly those with white or thin fur. These plants contain a toxin that increases sensitivity to the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight, causing irritation of the skin. Consumption of these plant species can also irritate the gastrointestinal tract of these animals.
Photographic Location: Border of a small sandy pond and a moist sandy meadow near Lake Michigan in NE Illinois.
Comments: Populations of this small showy shrub appear to be increasing in some protected areas of Illinois. Kalm's St. John's Wort can be distinguished from most species of St. John's Wort (Hypericum spp.) by its woody lower branches; most species of St. John's Wort in Illinois are entirely herbaceous. Compared to another shrubby species, Shrubby St. John's Wort (Hypericum prolificum), Kalm's St. John's Wort has more narrow leaves (never exceeding 8 mm. across) and it has 5-celled seed capsules, rather than 3-celled seed capsules. It is similar to another shrubby species that is found in southern Illinois, Five-lobed St. John's Wort (Hypericum lobocarpum). This latter species has cymes with a greater number of flowers (usually exceeding 7 flowers each) and its flowers are smaller in size (about ¾" across).
Each flower is about 1–1¼" across, consisting of 5 spreading yellow petals, 5 light green or light yellow sepals, a light yellow pistil with 5 styles (the latter are often united), and numerous conspicuous stamens. The petals are broadly oblong or obovate in shape, while the sepals are lanceolate; the petals are about twice the length of the sepals. The filaments of the stamens are light yellow, while the anthers are medium yellow or golden yellow. The pedicels of the flowers are up to ¾" long, light green, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to late summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules about 8 mm. (1/3") long that are lanceoloid in shape and 5-lobed. The interior of each seed capsule has 5 completely separated cells; there are numerous seeds in each cell. These seeds are dark-colored, narrowly oblongoid, and somewhat flattened. The woody root system is shallow and spreading.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil containing calcareous sand or limestone. Shallow water is tolerated if it is temporary. This shrub is winter-hardy to Zone 4.
Range & Habitat: Kalm's St. John's Wort occurs in NE Illinois along Lake Michigan, where it is native (see Distribution Map). In Illinois, this shrub is rare and state-listed as 'endangered.' It is endemic to the Great Lakes Region. Habitats include interdunal swales, borders of small sandy ponds, moist to wet sandy meadows, and moist sand flats (pannes). Outside of Illinois, Kalm's St. John's Wort occurs on limestone flats (alvars). This shrub is found in high quality natural areas. It is also cultivated occasionally in gardens because of its showy flowers.
Faunal Associations: Mostly various bees visit the flowers, where they collect pollen. Nectar is not available as a floral reward. Grundel et al. (2011) observed a leaf-cutting bee (Megachile montivaga) and Halictid bees (Augochlorella aurata, Lasioglossum pectorale) visiting the flowers of Kalm's St. John's Wort. Two oligophagous aphids suck the sap of this shrub: Aphis mizzou and Aphis hyperici. The caterpillars of an oligophagous moth, Nedra ramosula (Gray Half-spot), feeds on St. John's Wort species (Hypericum spp.), while the caterpillars of two polyphagous moths, Eupithecia miserulata (Common Pug) and Synchlora aerata (Wavy-lined Emerald), sometimes feed on the flowers (Lagos et al., 2012; Covell, 1984/2005; Wagner, 2005).
Kalm's St. John's Wort is rarely browsed by White-tail Deer. In places where this animal is abundant, this shrub has a tendency to increase because of selective browsing (Bradstreet & Bowles, 2002). The leaves of St. John's Wort species are somewhat toxic to domesticated farm animals, particularly those with white or thin fur. These plants contain a toxin that increases sensitivity to the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight, causing irritation of the skin. Consumption of these plant species can also irritate the gastrointestinal tract of these animals.
Photographic Location: Border of a small sandy pond and a moist sandy meadow near Lake Michigan in NE Illinois.
Comments: Populations of this small showy shrub appear to be increasing in some protected areas of Illinois. Kalm's St. John's Wort can be distinguished from most species of St. John's Wort (Hypericum spp.) by its woody lower branches; most species of St. John's Wort in Illinois are entirely herbaceous. Compared to another shrubby species, Shrubby St. John's Wort (Hypericum prolificum), Kalm's St. John's Wort has more narrow leaves (never exceeding 8 mm. across) and it has 5-celled seed capsules, rather than 3-celled seed capsules. It is similar to another shrubby species that is found in southern Illinois, Five-lobed St. John's Wort (Hypericum lobocarpum). This latter species has cymes with a greater number of flowers (usually exceeding 7 flowers each) and its flowers are smaller in size (about ¾" across).
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