文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
虫害分布
西南、华中、华东、华北，辽宁(大连)。
虫害危害
主要危害栗树。
虫害形态特征
成虫雌体扁圆球形，年轻时绿色，触角6节，死体坚硬、蜡质，有光泽，黄褐色，宽径 4.5-6.5mm，背具黑色横纹5-7条，前3条较宽，腹面与臀部具白色絮状物。雄体长1.7mm，翅展 3.5mm，棕褐色，触角丝状，6节，尾端交配器锥状，露出体外，两侧具细蜡丝各1根。卵长椭圆形， 淡橙红色。若虫1龄时扁椭圆形，长约O.5mm，淡 红褐色，触角6节，与足均为淡桶黄色; 2龄雌体 纺锤形，背凸，暗红褐色，被蜡毛，触角6节; 2龄雄体卵圆形，黄褐色，触角7节; 3龄雌体卵圆形，红褐色。蛹圆锥形，黄褐色。茧扁椭圆形，长约2mm，白色絮状。
虫害发生规律
一年发生1代，以2龄若虫在枝条芽基或伤疤处越冬。在浙江，3月初越冬雄若虫爬行至皮缝、伤口等隐蔽处聚集结茧化蛹，雌若虫在原处固定取食进入3龄。3月下旬成虫开始羽化，交尾后于5月初产卵，每雌产卵2000余粒，5月上、中旬孵化，5月下旬进入2龄若虫期，并以此越夏和越冬。老树重于幼树，下层枝重于上层枝。若虫死亡率较高。
虫害防治方法
（1）冬季植株修剪以及清园，消灭在枯枝落叶杂草与表土中越冬的虫源。
（2）提前预防，开春后喷施40%啶虫.毒（国光必治）乳油2000-3000倍液进行预防，杀死虫卵，减少孵化虫量
（3）蚧壳虫化学防治小窍门：
①抓住最佳用药时间：在若虫孵化盛期用药，此时蜡质层未形成或刚形成，对药物比较敏感,用量少、效果好;
②选择对症药剂：刺吸式口器，应选内吸性药剂，背覆厚厚蚧壳（铠甲），应选用渗透性强的药剂如40%啶虫.毒（国光必治）1500-2000倍液喷雾防治，或用国光必治1500-2000倍+5.7%
甲维盐乳油（ 国光乐克）2000倍混合液防治效果更佳。建议连用2次，间隔7-10天。
③选择适宜的用药方式：
针对低矮容易喷施的，可以用喷雾方式防治；针对高大树体的蚧壳虫防治，也可使用吊注“必治”或者插“树体杀虫剂”插瓶的方式防治，用量根据树种、树势、气候等因素而调整。
(4)生物防治：保护和利用天敌昆虫，例如：红点唇瓢虫，其成虫、幼虫均可捕食此蚧的卵、若虫、蛹和成虫；6月份后捕食率可高达78％。此外，还有寄生蝇和捕食螨等。
西南、华中、华东、华北，辽宁(大连)。
虫害危害
主要危害栗树。
虫害形态特征
成虫雌体扁圆球形，年轻时绿色，触角6节，死体坚硬、蜡质，有光泽，黄褐色，宽径 4.5-6.5mm，背具黑色横纹5-7条，前3条较宽，腹面与臀部具白色絮状物。雄体长1.7mm，翅展 3.5mm，棕褐色，触角丝状，6节，尾端交配器锥状，露出体外，两侧具细蜡丝各1根。卵长椭圆形， 淡橙红色。若虫1龄时扁椭圆形，长约O.5mm，淡 红褐色，触角6节，与足均为淡桶黄色; 2龄雌体 纺锤形，背凸，暗红褐色，被蜡毛，触角6节; 2龄雄体卵圆形，黄褐色，触角7节; 3龄雌体卵圆形，红褐色。蛹圆锥形，黄褐色。茧扁椭圆形，长约2mm，白色絮状。
虫害发生规律
一年发生1代，以2龄若虫在枝条芽基或伤疤处越冬。在浙江，3月初越冬雄若虫爬行至皮缝、伤口等隐蔽处聚集结茧化蛹，雌若虫在原处固定取食进入3龄。3月下旬成虫开始羽化，交尾后于5月初产卵，每雌产卵2000余粒，5月上、中旬孵化，5月下旬进入2龄若虫期，并以此越夏和越冬。老树重于幼树，下层枝重于上层枝。若虫死亡率较高。
虫害防治方法
（1）冬季植株修剪以及清园，消灭在枯枝落叶杂草与表土中越冬的虫源。
（2）提前预防，开春后喷施40%啶虫.毒（国光必治）乳油2000-3000倍液进行预防，杀死虫卵，减少孵化虫量
（3）蚧壳虫化学防治小窍门：
①抓住最佳用药时间：在若虫孵化盛期用药，此时蜡质层未形成或刚形成，对药物比较敏感,用量少、效果好;
②选择对症药剂：刺吸式口器，应选内吸性药剂，背覆厚厚蚧壳（铠甲），应选用渗透性强的药剂如40%啶虫.毒（国光必治）1500-2000倍液喷雾防治，或用国光必治1500-2000倍+5.7%
甲维盐乳油（ 国光乐克）2000倍混合液防治效果更佳。建议连用2次，间隔7-10天。
③选择适宜的用药方式：
针对低矮容易喷施的，可以用喷雾方式防治；针对高大树体的蚧壳虫防治，也可使用吊注“必治”或者插“树体杀虫剂”插瓶的方式防治，用量根据树种、树势、气候等因素而调整。
(4)生物防治：保护和利用天敌昆虫，例如：红点唇瓢虫，其成虫、幼虫均可捕食此蚧的卵、若虫、蛹和成虫；6月份后捕食率可高达78％。此外，还有寄生蝇和捕食螨等。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) usually bloom for three to four weeks, but shade, drought, too much fertilizer or crowding can prevent flowering. These perennials grow in upright clumps 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, and grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety. Selecting day lilies that thrive in the growing conditions in your garden gives the best chance of plentiful blooms.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Reaching heights of up to 6 feet tall and producing curling, feathery fronds, ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) is a perennial species that thrives in cool, shaded areas. It requires minimal maintenance and care, and is rarely bothered by pests or diseases. The fern often spreads, forming dense colonies when planted in ideal growing conditions.
Choose a Shady Site
Ostrich fern is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, where it prefers partial and full shade. A wooded area, the north side of a building or a shady riverbank or pond side are ideal locations for the plant. It does best in naturally cool climates and suffers when grown in humid, southern U.S. regions. Because each ostrich fern can grow 5 to 8 feet wide, provide at least 5 feet of space between each fern and other plants. Transplant an ostrich fern by digging it up carefully in early spring, leaving plenty of room around its crown -- where its above-ground and below-ground parts join -- to avoid disturbing its roots. Replant the fern so that soil completely encloses its root ball, but don't place the fern so deeply that soil gets in its center, from which its fronds or stems grow; soil in that location may cause rot.
Add Organic Material to Soil
Ostrich fern tolerates a wide variety of soil types, though it looks its best in well-draining soil generously enhanced with organic matter. If your location has light, sandy soil or heavy clay soil, mix a 2-inch-thick layer of organic material, such as composted pine bark, with the top 10 inches of the soil before planting. Rather than just mixing the organic matter into each planting hole, mix the material into the whole planting bed so that water doesn't fill the hole and cause root damage to the plants.
Water Regularly
Water frequently -- at least once each week unless it rains -- to keep each ostrich fern's soil moist at all times. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely; err on the side of too wet rather than too dry because ostrich fern tolerates wet soil. Applying a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of organic matter such as leaves or pine straw on the soil surface -- but not touching the plants -- in spring and fall helps retain moisture in the soil. In a wooded area, the ferns receive some natural mulch from fallen leaves and evergreen needles.
Fertilize Sparingly
Ferns are sensitive to fertilizer, though they can benefit from a light application in spring, right after their new fronds begin to emerge. Use a controlled-release, granular, 14-14-14 fertilizer, spreading 1/8 cup of it uniformly on the soil surface per 10 square feet, avoiding getting it on the ferns and other plants. Till it into the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil very lightly if you can avoid damaging the ferns' roots or rhizomes. Store unused fertilizer in a cool, dry place away from children and pets.
Choose a Shady Site
Ostrich fern is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, where it prefers partial and full shade. A wooded area, the north side of a building or a shady riverbank or pond side are ideal locations for the plant. It does best in naturally cool climates and suffers when grown in humid, southern U.S. regions. Because each ostrich fern can grow 5 to 8 feet wide, provide at least 5 feet of space between each fern and other plants. Transplant an ostrich fern by digging it up carefully in early spring, leaving plenty of room around its crown -- where its above-ground and below-ground parts join -- to avoid disturbing its roots. Replant the fern so that soil completely encloses its root ball, but don't place the fern so deeply that soil gets in its center, from which its fronds or stems grow; soil in that location may cause rot.
Add Organic Material to Soil
Ostrich fern tolerates a wide variety of soil types, though it looks its best in well-draining soil generously enhanced with organic matter. If your location has light, sandy soil or heavy clay soil, mix a 2-inch-thick layer of organic material, such as composted pine bark, with the top 10 inches of the soil before planting. Rather than just mixing the organic matter into each planting hole, mix the material into the whole planting bed so that water doesn't fill the hole and cause root damage to the plants.
Water Regularly
Water frequently -- at least once each week unless it rains -- to keep each ostrich fern's soil moist at all times. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely; err on the side of too wet rather than too dry because ostrich fern tolerates wet soil. Applying a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of organic matter such as leaves or pine straw on the soil surface -- but not touching the plants -- in spring and fall helps retain moisture in the soil. In a wooded area, the ferns receive some natural mulch from fallen leaves and evergreen needles.
Fertilize Sparingly
Ferns are sensitive to fertilizer, though they can benefit from a light application in spring, right after their new fronds begin to emerge. Use a controlled-release, granular, 14-14-14 fertilizer, spreading 1/8 cup of it uniformly on the soil surface per 10 square feet, avoiding getting it on the ferns and other plants. Till it into the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil very lightly if you can avoid damaging the ferns' roots or rhizomes. Store unused fertilizer in a cool, dry place away from children and pets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata), sometimes called sword ferns, have bright green fronds that grow up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The fronds have serrated edges and a rough texture. They are shade-lovers and grow best in soil that is very rich and lightly moist. Boston ferns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8B through 11 and can be planted outdoors during any season. Frost will kill the foliage during winter, but new fronds emerge from the center of the plant once temperatures warm in spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This plant is a perennial in areas with mild winters, otherwise it is an annual. It is about 2-4' tall and branches frequently. The smooth stems are greyish green and finely pubescent (canescent). The alternate leaves are up to 6" long and 4" across. They are ovate or cordate-ovate, smooth or slightly undulate along the margins, and finely pubescent on the underside (young leaves are finely pubescent on on the upperside as well). Each leaf is usually asymmetric at the base (oblique).
Individual flowers develop on short pedicels where the upper stems branch dichotomously. Each white flower is about 5-7" long and 3-4" across. The corolla has 5 shallow lobes that are barely perceptible; there is a short point between each pair of lobes along the rim of the corolla. Five white stamens are exerted from the center of the corolla. The base of the flower consists of a tubular calyx that has 5 broad teeth along its upper rim; this calyx extends to about ½ the length of the flower, and it lacks conspicuous ridges or wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers often bloom during the day. Each flower is replaced by a prickly seed capsule about 1" across. Each capsule contains several seeds that are large and angular. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and fertile loamy soil, preferably at a site that is not too windy. Flea beetles and other insects may chew tiny holes in the leaves.
Range & Habitat: Angel's Trumpet has naturalized in scattered counties across Illinois, although it rarely persists (see Distribution Map). Habitats include areas adjacent to gardens, areas along roads and railroads, and waste areas. This plant is occasionally cultivated in flower gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Angel's Trumpet was introduced from central America and/or southwestern United States.
Faunal Associations: Little is known about floral-faunal relations for this species. The flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds and Sphinx moths. The foliage contains stramonium (a narcotic) and probably other toxic chemicals, therefore it is unlikely to be bothered by deer and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: An herb garden at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers are extremely large and showy. The only other member of this genus that has naturalized in Illinois is Datura stramonium (Jimsonweed), which is common and weedy. Like Angel's Trumpet, Jimsonweed is a bushy herbaceous plant with large leaves and funnelform flowers. However, the flowers of Jimsonweed are smaller and less showy (up to 5" long and 2½" across), and they are less likely to bloom during the day. The foliage of Jimsonweed is largely hairless, while Angel's Trumpet has stems and leaf undersides that are finely pubescent. The leaf margins of Jimsonweed are lobed or undulate, while the leaf margins of Angel's Trumpet are smooth or slightly undulate. Another scientific name for Angel's Trumpet is Datura inoxia. Another common name for this species is Ghost Flower.
Individual flowers develop on short pedicels where the upper stems branch dichotomously. Each white flower is about 5-7" long and 3-4" across. The corolla has 5 shallow lobes that are barely perceptible; there is a short point between each pair of lobes along the rim of the corolla. Five white stamens are exerted from the center of the corolla. The base of the flower consists of a tubular calyx that has 5 broad teeth along its upper rim; this calyx extends to about ½ the length of the flower, and it lacks conspicuous ridges or wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers often bloom during the day. Each flower is replaced by a prickly seed capsule about 1" across. Each capsule contains several seeds that are large and angular. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and fertile loamy soil, preferably at a site that is not too windy. Flea beetles and other insects may chew tiny holes in the leaves.
Range & Habitat: Angel's Trumpet has naturalized in scattered counties across Illinois, although it rarely persists (see Distribution Map). Habitats include areas adjacent to gardens, areas along roads and railroads, and waste areas. This plant is occasionally cultivated in flower gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Angel's Trumpet was introduced from central America and/or southwestern United States.
Faunal Associations: Little is known about floral-faunal relations for this species. The flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds and Sphinx moths. The foliage contains stramonium (a narcotic) and probably other toxic chemicals, therefore it is unlikely to be bothered by deer and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: An herb garden at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers are extremely large and showy. The only other member of this genus that has naturalized in Illinois is Datura stramonium (Jimsonweed), which is common and weedy. Like Angel's Trumpet, Jimsonweed is a bushy herbaceous plant with large leaves and funnelform flowers. However, the flowers of Jimsonweed are smaller and less showy (up to 5" long and 2½" across), and they are less likely to bloom during the day. The foliage of Jimsonweed is largely hairless, while Angel's Trumpet has stems and leaf undersides that are finely pubescent. The leaf margins of Jimsonweed are lobed or undulate, while the leaf margins of Angel's Trumpet are smooth or slightly undulate. Another scientific name for Angel's Trumpet is Datura inoxia. Another common name for this species is Ghost Flower.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 3-5' tall that branches dichotomously. The stems are green or purple and largely hairless, although young stems often have conspicuous hairs. The alternate leaves are up to 8" long and 6" across (excluding the petioles). They are ovate or ovate-cordate in outline, but pinnately lobed. These lobes are somewhat shallow and pointed at their tips; there are usually 2-3 of these lobes on each side of the leaf blade. The margin of each leaf may have a few secondary lobes or coarse dentate teeth, otherwise it is smooth or slightly undulate. The leaves may be slightly pubescent when young, but become hairless with age; the upper surface of each leaf is often dark green and dull. The foliage of Jimsonweed exudes a bitter rank odor.
Individual flowers occur where the stems branch dichotomously; the upper stems also terminate in individual flowers. The funnelform corolla of each flower is up to 5" long and 2" across when fully open; its outer rim has 5 shallow lobes. Each of these lobes forms an acute point in the middle.The corolla is white or pale violet throughout, except at the throat of the flower, where thick veins of dark violet occur. The light green calyx is shorter than the corolla and conspicuously divided along its length by 5 membranous wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. The flowers usually don't open up until midnight and close early in the morning; less often, the flowers may bloom toward the middle of the day, especially when it is cloudy. Individual flowers last only a single day. Each flower is replaced by a hard fruit that is dry and spiny; it is about 1½" long, 1" across, and spheroid-ovoid in shape. Underneath each fruit is a truncated remnant of the calyx that curves sharply downward. These fruits are initially green, but become brown with maturity; they divide into 4 segments to release the seeds. The large seeds are dull, irregular, and dark-colored; their surface may be pitted or slightly reticulated. The root system consists of taproot that is shallow for the size of the plant; it branches frequently. Jimsonweed spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich fertile soil with high nitrogen content. This type of soil is necessary to supply the nutrients that are required by the prodigious growth of this annual plant. The foliage is often pitted by tiny holes that are made by flea beetles (the same or similar species that attack eggplant). The seeds can remain viable in the ground for several years.
Range & Habitat: Jimsonweed is a fairly common plant that has been observed in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is probably adventive from tropical America and it was first observed in the United States at the Jamestown colony during the 17th century. Typical habitats include cropland (particularly corn fields), fallow fields, old feed lots, piles of soil at construction sites, mounds of decomposed mulch and discarded vegetation, urban vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste areas. Disturbed areas with open fertile soil are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by nectar-seeking Sphinx moths. Various species of beetles are attracted by the flowers, especially at night, where they steal nectar and chomp on the pollen. The foliage and other parts of Jimsonweed are a source of food for several flea beetles (Epitrix spp.), Three-lined Potato Beetle (Lema daturaphila), Colorado Potato Beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata), Clavate Tortoise Beetle (Plagiometriona clavata), and larvae of the Pink-spotted Hawk Moth (Agrius cingulata); see Clark et al. (2004) and Covell (1984/2005). The foliage and seeds contain an impressive assortment of toxic alkaloids that can be fatal to mammalian herbivores and humans. Some of these alkaloids are mildly narcotic and hallucinogenic. The immature seeds are especially poisonous; as few as 20 seeds can fatally poison a child. It is doubtful that birds make any use of these toxic seeds. Humans help to spread the seeds around through activities that are related to agriculture, construction, and landscaping.
Photographic Location: Near piles of soil at a vacant lot in Champaign, Illinois. These piles of soil were dumped and occasionally carried off by trucks in relation to off-site construction and landscaping activities.
Comments: The common name 'Jimsonweed' is probably a corruption of 'Jamestown Weed,' referring to where this species was first observed in North America. Another common name that is often used for this species is 'Thornapple.' Two varieties of Jimsonweed have been described. The typical variety has green stems and white flowers, while var. tatula has purple stems and either pale violet or purple-striped flowers. Jimsonweed has a distinct appearance, making it easy to identify.
The only other Datura spp. in Illinois, Datura wrightii (Angel's Trumpet), rarely naturalizes in the wild. It is sometimes cultivated in flower gardens because of its attractive flowers. Angel's Trumpet is a hairier plant with unlobed leaves and larger flowers. The corolla of its flowers ranges from 5-8" in length, while the corolla of Jimsonweed's flowers is about 3–5" in length. Both of these Datura spp. have flowers that bloom during the night. Another species in the Nightshade family, Nicandra physalodes (Shoofly Plant), also rarely naturalizes in the wild. The Shoofly Plant has foliage that is similar to Jimsonweed, but its funnelform flowers are much smaller (less than 1½" long and across). Unlike Jimsonweed, the flowers of Shoofly Plant are strictly diurnal.
Individual flowers occur where the stems branch dichotomously; the upper stems also terminate in individual flowers. The funnelform corolla of each flower is up to 5" long and 2" across when fully open; its outer rim has 5 shallow lobes. Each of these lobes forms an acute point in the middle.The corolla is white or pale violet throughout, except at the throat of the flower, where thick veins of dark violet occur. The light green calyx is shorter than the corolla and conspicuously divided along its length by 5 membranous wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. The flowers usually don't open up until midnight and close early in the morning; less often, the flowers may bloom toward the middle of the day, especially when it is cloudy. Individual flowers last only a single day. Each flower is replaced by a hard fruit that is dry and spiny; it is about 1½" long, 1" across, and spheroid-ovoid in shape. Underneath each fruit is a truncated remnant of the calyx that curves sharply downward. These fruits are initially green, but become brown with maturity; they divide into 4 segments to release the seeds. The large seeds are dull, irregular, and dark-colored; their surface may be pitted or slightly reticulated. The root system consists of taproot that is shallow for the size of the plant; it branches frequently. Jimsonweed spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich fertile soil with high nitrogen content. This type of soil is necessary to supply the nutrients that are required by the prodigious growth of this annual plant. The foliage is often pitted by tiny holes that are made by flea beetles (the same or similar species that attack eggplant). The seeds can remain viable in the ground for several years.
Range & Habitat: Jimsonweed is a fairly common plant that has been observed in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is probably adventive from tropical America and it was first observed in the United States at the Jamestown colony during the 17th century. Typical habitats include cropland (particularly corn fields), fallow fields, old feed lots, piles of soil at construction sites, mounds of decomposed mulch and discarded vegetation, urban vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste areas. Disturbed areas with open fertile soil are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by nectar-seeking Sphinx moths. Various species of beetles are attracted by the flowers, especially at night, where they steal nectar and chomp on the pollen. The foliage and other parts of Jimsonweed are a source of food for several flea beetles (Epitrix spp.), Three-lined Potato Beetle (Lema daturaphila), Colorado Potato Beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata), Clavate Tortoise Beetle (Plagiometriona clavata), and larvae of the Pink-spotted Hawk Moth (Agrius cingulata); see Clark et al. (2004) and Covell (1984/2005). The foliage and seeds contain an impressive assortment of toxic alkaloids that can be fatal to mammalian herbivores and humans. Some of these alkaloids are mildly narcotic and hallucinogenic. The immature seeds are especially poisonous; as few as 20 seeds can fatally poison a child. It is doubtful that birds make any use of these toxic seeds. Humans help to spread the seeds around through activities that are related to agriculture, construction, and landscaping.
Photographic Location: Near piles of soil at a vacant lot in Champaign, Illinois. These piles of soil were dumped and occasionally carried off by trucks in relation to off-site construction and landscaping activities.
Comments: The common name 'Jimsonweed' is probably a corruption of 'Jamestown Weed,' referring to where this species was first observed in North America. Another common name that is often used for this species is 'Thornapple.' Two varieties of Jimsonweed have been described. The typical variety has green stems and white flowers, while var. tatula has purple stems and either pale violet or purple-striped flowers. Jimsonweed has a distinct appearance, making it easy to identify.
The only other Datura spp. in Illinois, Datura wrightii (Angel's Trumpet), rarely naturalizes in the wild. It is sometimes cultivated in flower gardens because of its attractive flowers. Angel's Trumpet is a hairier plant with unlobed leaves and larger flowers. The corolla of its flowers ranges from 5-8" in length, while the corolla of Jimsonweed's flowers is about 3–5" in length. Both of these Datura spp. have flowers that bloom during the night. Another species in the Nightshade family, Nicandra physalodes (Shoofly Plant), also rarely naturalizes in the wild. The Shoofly Plant has foliage that is similar to Jimsonweed, but its funnelform flowers are much smaller (less than 1½" long and across). Unlike Jimsonweed, the flowers of Shoofly Plant are strictly diurnal.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 2-6' tall that is unbranched below, but branched above, with erect to ascending stems. The stems are light green to dark red, terete, and either glabrous or sparsely short-pubescent. Pairs of opposite compound leaves are widely spaced along the stems. Individual compound leaves are up to 5" long and 3½" across; they are usually bipinnate with narrowly linear lobes (about 1 mm. across) that are light to medium green and glabrous. The compound leaves are either sessile or they have short petioles up to ¼" long.
The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads about 2-3" across that are on long naked peduncles (4-8" long). The peduncles have characteristics that are similar to the stems. Each flowerhead consists of about 8 ray florets that surround numerous tiny disk florets. The ray florets are sterile, while the disk florets are perfect and fertile. The petaloid extensions of the ray florets are white, pink, or magenta; sometimes they are bicolored. In addition, these petaloid extensions are obovate in shape and their outer edges are shallowly cleft. The circular perimeter of the disk florets spans about ½" across; it is relatively small in relation to the diameter of the flowerhead. Individual disk florets are about ¼" long, bright yellow, and narrowly cylindrical. At the base of the flowerhead, there are floral bracts (phyllaries) in 2 series; there are about 8 floral bractsDistribution Map in each series. The outer floral bracts are green and lanceolate, while the inner floral bracts are purple and ovate. Both types of bracts are about ½" in length. Together, the floral bracts form a shallow cup at the base of the flowerhead. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall, lasting 2-3 months. Afterwards, the disk florets of each flowerhead are replaced by narrowly cylindrical-angular achenes about ½" long. Each slightly curved achene is slightly swollen toward its outer tip, where there is a minute beak. A pair of awns about 1 mm. in length is sometimes present at this beak. The outer surface of each mature achene is dark-colored. The root system consists of a taproot. This plants reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic or dry-mesic conditions, and a mildly acidic to alkaline soil containing loam, clay loam, gravel, or sand. Once the seeds germinate, growth and development is rapid. Wild plants tend to be shorter and bloom less abundantly than garden plants in fertile soil, otherwise they appear much the same.
Range & Habitat: The introduced Common Cosmos rarely naturalizes in Illinois, where it has been reported in only a few counties. Wild populations of this plant rarely persist. Common Cosmos was introduced into the United States as an ornamental flowering plant from Mexico or tropical America, and it is still commonly cultivated. Habitats include fallow or abandoned fields, roadsides, areas along railroads, and waste areas. Habitats with a history of disturbance and relatively open ground are preferred.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about the floral-faunal relationships for this introduced plant in North America. Butterflies and possibly other insects visit the flowers for nectar and/or pollen. Insects that feed destructively on Cosmos spp. include Macrosteles fascifrons (Aster Leafhopper) and the polyphagous caterpillars of Rachiplusia ou (Gray Looper Moth).
Photographic Location: A fallow field near Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Because of its attractive flowers, fine fern-like foliage, and ease of cultivation, it is easy to understand why Common Cosmos remains a popular garden plant. There are many cultivars to choose from. While Common Cosmos occasionally reseeds itself, it has not been invasive in Illinois. It is easy to identify in the wild because nothing else closely resembles it, except other non-native Cosmos spp., that so far have not escaped from cultivation within the state. Some Coreopsis spp. have finely divided foliage and similar flowerheads, but they tend to be shorter plants and their flowerheads are usually yellow.
The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads about 2-3" across that are on long naked peduncles (4-8" long). The peduncles have characteristics that are similar to the stems. Each flowerhead consists of about 8 ray florets that surround numerous tiny disk florets. The ray florets are sterile, while the disk florets are perfect and fertile. The petaloid extensions of the ray florets are white, pink, or magenta; sometimes they are bicolored. In addition, these petaloid extensions are obovate in shape and their outer edges are shallowly cleft. The circular perimeter of the disk florets spans about ½" across; it is relatively small in relation to the diameter of the flowerhead. Individual disk florets are about ¼" long, bright yellow, and narrowly cylindrical. At the base of the flowerhead, there are floral bracts (phyllaries) in 2 series; there are about 8 floral bractsDistribution Map in each series. The outer floral bracts are green and lanceolate, while the inner floral bracts are purple and ovate. Both types of bracts are about ½" in length. Together, the floral bracts form a shallow cup at the base of the flowerhead. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall, lasting 2-3 months. Afterwards, the disk florets of each flowerhead are replaced by narrowly cylindrical-angular achenes about ½" long. Each slightly curved achene is slightly swollen toward its outer tip, where there is a minute beak. A pair of awns about 1 mm. in length is sometimes present at this beak. The outer surface of each mature achene is dark-colored. The root system consists of a taproot. This plants reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic or dry-mesic conditions, and a mildly acidic to alkaline soil containing loam, clay loam, gravel, or sand. Once the seeds germinate, growth and development is rapid. Wild plants tend to be shorter and bloom less abundantly than garden plants in fertile soil, otherwise they appear much the same.
Range & Habitat: The introduced Common Cosmos rarely naturalizes in Illinois, where it has been reported in only a few counties. Wild populations of this plant rarely persist. Common Cosmos was introduced into the United States as an ornamental flowering plant from Mexico or tropical America, and it is still commonly cultivated. Habitats include fallow or abandoned fields, roadsides, areas along railroads, and waste areas. Habitats with a history of disturbance and relatively open ground are preferred.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about the floral-faunal relationships for this introduced plant in North America. Butterflies and possibly other insects visit the flowers for nectar and/or pollen. Insects that feed destructively on Cosmos spp. include Macrosteles fascifrons (Aster Leafhopper) and the polyphagous caterpillars of Rachiplusia ou (Gray Looper Moth).
Photographic Location: A fallow field near Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Because of its attractive flowers, fine fern-like foliage, and ease of cultivation, it is easy to understand why Common Cosmos remains a popular garden plant. There are many cultivars to choose from. While Common Cosmos occasionally reseeds itself, it has not been invasive in Illinois. It is easy to identify in the wild because nothing else closely resembles it, except other non-native Cosmos spp., that so far have not escaped from cultivation within the state. Some Coreopsis spp. have finely divided foliage and similar flowerheads, but they tend to be shorter plants and their flowerheads are usually yellow.
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