文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Bleeding heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) prefers warm, humid conditions, making Florida's weather conditions optimal. It is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 12, acting like a perennial in Central and South Florida. North Florida plants will die to the ground during frosts and freezes, but they will resprout in spring. The evergreen shrub has a vine-like habit, growing up to 15 feet tall. Bleeding heart has red and white bell-like flowers, blooming from spring through summer.
Growing Outside
Step 1
Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart.
Step 2
Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands.
Step 4
Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor.
Step 5
Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist.
Step 6
Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like.
Step 7
Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives.
Growing Inside Containers
Step 1
Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die.
Step 2
Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up.
Step 3
Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water.
Step 4
Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day.
Step 5
Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.
Growing Outside
Step 1
Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart.
Step 2
Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands.
Step 4
Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor.
Step 5
Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist.
Step 6
Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like.
Step 7
Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives.
Growing Inside Containers
Step 1
Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die.
Step 2
Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up.
Step 3
Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water.
Step 4
Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day.
Step 5
Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月26日
Description: This plant is usually a winter annual, although sometimes it is a summer annual. It consists of a rosette of basal leaves up to 9" across, from which one or more flowering stalks develop that are little branched and up to 2½' tall (although individual plants can be much smaller than this). The basal leaves are up to 4½" long and ¾" across; they are elliptic, lanceolate, or oblanceolate, and pinnately lobed. The alternate leaves on the flowering stalks are much smaller in size and widely spaced; they are lanceolate, elliptic or linear in shape, and either smooth or slightly dentate along their margins. The bases of the alternate leaves are either sessile or they clasp their stalks with auriculate (ear-like) lobes. Both the basal and alternate leaves are medium to dark green and mostly hairless, although the lower sides of their central veins are often covered with appressed hairs. The terete stalks are light green to dark reddish purple (usually the latter), and they are usually glabrous above and appressed-hairy below.
Each stalk terminates in a raceme of small flowers. These flowers bloom only toward the tip of the raceme and they are short-lived. Each flower is a little less than 1/8" (3 mm.) across and consists of 4 white petals, 4 greenish sepals, a pistil with a single style, and several stamens. Plants that are winter annuals bloom during spring to mid-summer, while summer annuals bloom from mid-summer to fall. The flowers are replaced by seedpods that are obcordoid, somewhat compressed (flattened), and a little less than ¼" long. Each seedpod is divided into 2 cells and contains about 20 seeds. The slender pedicels of the seedpods are about ½-¾" long and ascending. The raceme elongates with maturity and can become up to 1½' long on large plants. The small seeds are yellowish to reddish brown, ovoid-oblongoid in shape, and shiny; they can remain viable in the ground for several years. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Shepherd's Purse is typically found in full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and almost any kind of soil, including cracks in pavement. The size of this plant varies considerably with the fertility of the soil and availability of moisture. It is somewhat aggressive in reseeding itself.
Range & Habitat: Shepherd's Purse is a common plant that occurs in every county of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It was introduced into North America from Europe. Habitats include fields and pastures, areas along railroads and roadsides, gardens and lawns, construction sites, vacant lots, dirt paths, and waste ground. These habitats can be either sandy or non-sandy. Shepherd's Purse is found in highly disturbed areas, often where the soil surface has been exposed.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract mostly short-tongued bees and flies, including honeybees, Halictid bees, Andrenid bees, Syrphid flies, Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophagidae), and blow flies (Lucilia spp.). Less often, small butterflies and skippers suck nectar from the flowers (Robertson, 1929). The caterpillars of two butterflies, Anthocharis midea (Falcate Orangetip) and Pontia protodice (Checkered White), feed on Shepherd's Purse (Opler & Krizek, 1984). Other insect feeders include Entomoscelis americana (Red Turnip Beetle), several flea beetle species (Phyllotreta spp.), larvae of Liriomyza trifolii (American Serpentine Leafminer Fly), Holcostethus limbolarius (a stink bug), Myzus cerasi (Black Cherry Aphid), Lipaphis pseudobrassicae (False Cabbage Aphid), and Ceutorhynchus erysimi (a weevil); see Clark et al. (2004), Spencer & Steyskal (1986), Rider (2009), Blackman & Eastop (2013), and Majka et al. (2007). Information about this plant's relationships with vertebrate animals is more limited. White-tailed Deer browse on the leaves and flowering stalks: because the seeds of Shepherd's Purse can pass through the digestive tract of this animal and remain viable, they are spread to new areas (Myers et al., 2004). The Eastern Goldfinch sometimes eats the seeds, while the Prairie Vole (Microtus ochrogaster) feeds on the leaves of this plant to a limited extent (Martin et al., 1951/1961; Cook et al., 2004).
Photographic Location: A garden bed of an abandoned hotel in Urbana, Illinois, and an area along a bike path on the campus of the University of Illinois in the same city.
Comments: Shepherd's Purse is an easy plant to identify among members of the Mustard family because of the distinctive shape of its seedpods. This shape apparently resembles the leather purse of shepherds during the Middle Ages. The hairiness of the flowering stalks and the shape of the leaves is rather variable across different populations of plants. Sometimes the basal leaves are deeply lobed, while on other occasions they are shallowly lobed.
Each stalk terminates in a raceme of small flowers. These flowers bloom only toward the tip of the raceme and they are short-lived. Each flower is a little less than 1/8" (3 mm.) across and consists of 4 white petals, 4 greenish sepals, a pistil with a single style, and several stamens. Plants that are winter annuals bloom during spring to mid-summer, while summer annuals bloom from mid-summer to fall. The flowers are replaced by seedpods that are obcordoid, somewhat compressed (flattened), and a little less than ¼" long. Each seedpod is divided into 2 cells and contains about 20 seeds. The slender pedicels of the seedpods are about ½-¾" long and ascending. The raceme elongates with maturity and can become up to 1½' long on large plants. The small seeds are yellowish to reddish brown, ovoid-oblongoid in shape, and shiny; they can remain viable in the ground for several years. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Shepherd's Purse is typically found in full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and almost any kind of soil, including cracks in pavement. The size of this plant varies considerably with the fertility of the soil and availability of moisture. It is somewhat aggressive in reseeding itself.
Range & Habitat: Shepherd's Purse is a common plant that occurs in every county of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It was introduced into North America from Europe. Habitats include fields and pastures, areas along railroads and roadsides, gardens and lawns, construction sites, vacant lots, dirt paths, and waste ground. These habitats can be either sandy or non-sandy. Shepherd's Purse is found in highly disturbed areas, often where the soil surface has been exposed.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract mostly short-tongued bees and flies, including honeybees, Halictid bees, Andrenid bees, Syrphid flies, Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophagidae), and blow flies (Lucilia spp.). Less often, small butterflies and skippers suck nectar from the flowers (Robertson, 1929). The caterpillars of two butterflies, Anthocharis midea (Falcate Orangetip) and Pontia protodice (Checkered White), feed on Shepherd's Purse (Opler & Krizek, 1984). Other insect feeders include Entomoscelis americana (Red Turnip Beetle), several flea beetle species (Phyllotreta spp.), larvae of Liriomyza trifolii (American Serpentine Leafminer Fly), Holcostethus limbolarius (a stink bug), Myzus cerasi (Black Cherry Aphid), Lipaphis pseudobrassicae (False Cabbage Aphid), and Ceutorhynchus erysimi (a weevil); see Clark et al. (2004), Spencer & Steyskal (1986), Rider (2009), Blackman & Eastop (2013), and Majka et al. (2007). Information about this plant's relationships with vertebrate animals is more limited. White-tailed Deer browse on the leaves and flowering stalks: because the seeds of Shepherd's Purse can pass through the digestive tract of this animal and remain viable, they are spread to new areas (Myers et al., 2004). The Eastern Goldfinch sometimes eats the seeds, while the Prairie Vole (Microtus ochrogaster) feeds on the leaves of this plant to a limited extent (Martin et al., 1951/1961; Cook et al., 2004).
Photographic Location: A garden bed of an abandoned hotel in Urbana, Illinois, and an area along a bike path on the campus of the University of Illinois in the same city.
Comments: Shepherd's Purse is an easy plant to identify among members of the Mustard family because of the distinctive shape of its seedpods. This shape apparently resembles the leather purse of shepherds during the Middle Ages. The hairiness of the flowering stalks and the shape of the leaves is rather variable across different populations of plants. Sometimes the basal leaves are deeply lobed, while on other occasions they are shallowly lobed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月26日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 3-9' tall. It is unbranched or little branched. The stout central stem is light green; where new growth occurs, this stem is more or less pubescent, but it becomes less hairy with age. The lower leaves are often opposite, while the upper leaves are alternate. These leaves are palmately compound with 3-9 leaflets (usually there are 5-7 leaflets). On large plants, these leaves can span up to 10" long and across (excluding the petioles), but they are half this size on smaller plants. While the lower leaves have long slender petioles, the upper leaves are nearly sessile. These petioles are more or less pubescent and occasionally reddish green. Each leaflet is narrowly ovate and coarsely serrated along the margins; the middle leaflets are larger in size than the lateral leaflets. The upper surface of each leaflet is dark green and sparsely pubescent.
Hemp is dioecious with both male and female plants. The male plants produce both axillary and terminal panicles of male flowers. These panicles are up to 1' long; they have small leafy bracts and pubescent stalks. Each male flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens with large anthers, and no petals. The oblong or lanceolate sepals are initially green, but they become cream or pale yellow with maturity. After these flowers have shed their pollen, the foliage of the male plant soon turns yellow and withers away. The female plants produce short axillary spikes of female flowers; these spikes are about 1" long and covered with glandular hairs. Each female flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) long, consisting of a single sepal, an ovary with two styles, and no petals. The sepal wraps around the ovary, forming a beak at its apex; the 2 styles are exerted from this beak. The surface of the sepal is green and covered with glandular hairs that exude a characteristic odor when they are rubbed. At the base of each female flower, there is a single green bract that is lanceolate and longer than the flower. There are small leaves and other bracts along the spike as well.
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Pollination is by agency of the wind. Upon maturity, the female flowers turn brown, but the foliage of female plants remains green until the fall. Each female flower is replaced by an achene containing a single large seed. The root system consists of a branched taproot. This plant often forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Mesic conditions and other kinds of soil are also tolerated, but the size of plants will be smaller. Hemp is little bothered by pests and disease. It tolerates occasional flooding.
Range & Habitat: Hemp occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern portion of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Hemp is native to central Asia and it was introduced to the United States for agricultural purposes. Habitats include borders of floodplain woodlands, borders of low-lying fields, weedy meadows along rivers, fence rows, and roadside ditches. Occasionally, it is cultivated illegally in backyards and fields. This plant is found primarily in disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: There is little information about floral-faunal relationships for Hemp. The wind-pollinated flowers don't attract many insect pollinators. Mammalian herbivores avoid browsing on hemp when other plants are available.
Photographic Location: A roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Hemp has been cultivated in the United States since colonial times. The fibers of the central stem are quite strong; they have been used in making rope, paper, clothing, and other products. The foliage, flowers, and seeds of female plants contain chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. However, since World War II, it has been illegal in Illinois and other areas of the United States to cultivate hemp. The industrial form of this plant is Cannabis sativa sativa (Hemp), while the medicinal and recreational form is Cannabis sativa indica (Marijuana). It is usually the industrial form of this plant that is encountered in the wild; it has a more robust habit of growth and contains lower levels of chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. Hemp has a unique appearance and is easy to distinguish from other species of plants. A small specimen of Hemp superficially resembles some Potentilla spp. (Cinquefoils), especially Potentilla recta (Sulfur Cinquefoil), because of the similarity of their palmate leaves. However, the leaflets of Hemp are more elongated and tapered at their tips than Sulfur Cinquefoil. Furthermore, the flowers of Cinquefoils have 5 conspicuous petals that are white or yellow, like many other members of the Rose family, while the flowers of Hemp are devoid of petals.
Hemp is dioecious with both male and female plants. The male plants produce both axillary and terminal panicles of male flowers. These panicles are up to 1' long; they have small leafy bracts and pubescent stalks. Each male flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens with large anthers, and no petals. The oblong or lanceolate sepals are initially green, but they become cream or pale yellow with maturity. After these flowers have shed their pollen, the foliage of the male plant soon turns yellow and withers away. The female plants produce short axillary spikes of female flowers; these spikes are about 1" long and covered with glandular hairs. Each female flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) long, consisting of a single sepal, an ovary with two styles, and no petals. The sepal wraps around the ovary, forming a beak at its apex; the 2 styles are exerted from this beak. The surface of the sepal is green and covered with glandular hairs that exude a characteristic odor when they are rubbed. At the base of each female flower, there is a single green bract that is lanceolate and longer than the flower. There are small leaves and other bracts along the spike as well.
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Pollination is by agency of the wind. Upon maturity, the female flowers turn brown, but the foliage of female plants remains green until the fall. Each female flower is replaced by an achene containing a single large seed. The root system consists of a branched taproot. This plant often forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Mesic conditions and other kinds of soil are also tolerated, but the size of plants will be smaller. Hemp is little bothered by pests and disease. It tolerates occasional flooding.
Range & Habitat: Hemp occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern portion of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Hemp is native to central Asia and it was introduced to the United States for agricultural purposes. Habitats include borders of floodplain woodlands, borders of low-lying fields, weedy meadows along rivers, fence rows, and roadside ditches. Occasionally, it is cultivated illegally in backyards and fields. This plant is found primarily in disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: There is little information about floral-faunal relationships for Hemp. The wind-pollinated flowers don't attract many insect pollinators. Mammalian herbivores avoid browsing on hemp when other plants are available.
Photographic Location: A roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Hemp has been cultivated in the United States since colonial times. The fibers of the central stem are quite strong; they have been used in making rope, paper, clothing, and other products. The foliage, flowers, and seeds of female plants contain chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. However, since World War II, it has been illegal in Illinois and other areas of the United States to cultivate hemp. The industrial form of this plant is Cannabis sativa sativa (Hemp), while the medicinal and recreational form is Cannabis sativa indica (Marijuana). It is usually the industrial form of this plant that is encountered in the wild; it has a more robust habit of growth and contains lower levels of chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. Hemp has a unique appearance and is easy to distinguish from other species of plants. A small specimen of Hemp superficially resembles some Potentilla spp. (Cinquefoils), especially Potentilla recta (Sulfur Cinquefoil), because of the similarity of their palmate leaves. However, the leaflets of Hemp are more elongated and tapered at their tips than Sulfur Cinquefoil. Furthermore, the flowers of Cinquefoils have 5 conspicuous petals that are white or yellow, like many other members of the Rose family, while the flowers of Hemp are devoid of petals.
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成长记
涟漪潋滟
2018年07月12日
7月9日播下番茄黄瓜和中药种子，今天金太阳番茄已经发芽，播3出3，黑樱桃出1，黄瓜出1。7月12日播下各种香草种子，由于没有用东西遮盖，可能被老鼠造访了，有些种子是不需覆土的，可能已经被搞乱或不见。12日全植物施了一种叫超敏蛋白的水溶肥。本来是用酵素肥的，但酵素可能缺少微量元素，所以找了这个肥互补。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月08日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 1-2½' tall, consisting of basal leaves and flowering stalks with alternate leaves. The stalks are light green and glabrous. The basal and lower leaves are bipinnate with 6-9 leaflets, while the upper leaves are pinnate with 3 leaflets. When the leaves are bipinnate, they are ternately divided into 3 groups of leaflets (2 lateral groups & a terminal group); each group has 2-3 leaflets. The leaflets of basal and lower leaves are 2-3" long and 1¼-2" across; they are medium to dark green, more or less ovate in shape, serrate or doubly serrate along their margins, and hairless or nearly so. Some leaflets may be deeply cleft into two lobes. The leaflets of upper leaves are smaller in size and more narrow in shape (lanceolate or oblong-lanceolate), otherwise they are similar to the leaflets of the preceding leaves. The petioles of basal and lower leaves are 4-12" long, while the petioles of upper leaves are less than 4" long. These petioles are light green and hairless; the petioles of alternate leaves are sheathed at their bases. The petiolule (basal stalklet) of the terminal group of leaflets is 2-3" long, while the petiolules of the lateral groups of leaflets are about 1" long. In each group of leaflets, the lateral leaflets are sessile or nearly so, while the terminal leaflet has a secondary basal stalklet that is nearly sessile to 1" long.
The stalks terminate in compound umbels of flowers about 1½-3½" across that are flat-topped. Each compound umbel is divided into 10-20 umbellets, while each umbellet is divided into 10-25 flowers. The compound umbels lack floral bracts and the umbellets lack floral bractlets. Individual flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 white petals with incurved tips and an inferior ovary with a pair of styles. The peduncles of the compound umbels are 3-6" long, light green, glabrous, angular, and grooved. The pedicels of individual flowers are about ¼" in length, light green, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1 month. The flowers are replaced by ovoid-oblongoid fruits that are ridged and somewhat flattened; they are about 1/8" (3 mm.) long and release their seeds at maturity during the autumn. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Goutweed often forms clonal colonies from the spreading rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to light shade, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, or sandy loam. This plant has few problems with either insects or disease organisms. It can spread aggressively, particularly in locales with cool moist climates.
Range & Habitat: So far, Goutweed has rarely escaped from cultivation and become naturalized in Illinois. It has been found as an escaped plant in only a few counties of NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). Because of its aggressive nature, Goutweed may become more common in the future. It was introduced into North America from Eurasia as an ornamental plant. Habitats include deciduous woodlands (sandy & non-sandy), shaded ravines, woodland borders, cemeteries, roadsides, and waste areas. Cultivated forms of Goutweed include those with variegated and non-variegated leaves. However, wild specimens of Goutweed almost always have non-variegated leaves.
Faunal Associations: Floral-faunal relationships for this plant in North America are poorly understood. Müller (1873/1883) observed miscellaneous flies, beetles, wasps, small bees, and sawflies visiting the flowers for either nectar or pollen in Germany. Apparently the young foliage of Goutweed is considered edible to humans as it has been used in the Old World as a source of food and a medicinal herb.
Photographic Location: A flower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Like many other species in the Carrot family, Goutweed has compound umbels of small white flowers and compound leaves. It can be identified by the absence of floral bracts and bractlets underneath its flowers, and by the structure and shape of its leaves. Generally, its compound leaves have ternately arranged leaflets (divided into groups of 3), although the leaflets within a group sometimes occur in pairs. Compared with many other species in the Carrot family, these leaflets are relatively large in size and relatively broad in shape when one considers the size of the plant. Among native wildflowers, Honewort (Cryptotaenia canadensis) is similar in appearance to Goutweed, but the flowers of Honewort are even smaller in size and its compound leaves have only 3 leaflets, rather than 3 groups of leaflets.
The stalks terminate in compound umbels of flowers about 1½-3½" across that are flat-topped. Each compound umbel is divided into 10-20 umbellets, while each umbellet is divided into 10-25 flowers. The compound umbels lack floral bracts and the umbellets lack floral bractlets. Individual flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 white petals with incurved tips and an inferior ovary with a pair of styles. The peduncles of the compound umbels are 3-6" long, light green, glabrous, angular, and grooved. The pedicels of individual flowers are about ¼" in length, light green, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1 month. The flowers are replaced by ovoid-oblongoid fruits that are ridged and somewhat flattened; they are about 1/8" (3 mm.) long and release their seeds at maturity during the autumn. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Goutweed often forms clonal colonies from the spreading rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to light shade, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, or sandy loam. This plant has few problems with either insects or disease organisms. It can spread aggressively, particularly in locales with cool moist climates.
Range & Habitat: So far, Goutweed has rarely escaped from cultivation and become naturalized in Illinois. It has been found as an escaped plant in only a few counties of NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). Because of its aggressive nature, Goutweed may become more common in the future. It was introduced into North America from Eurasia as an ornamental plant. Habitats include deciduous woodlands (sandy & non-sandy), shaded ravines, woodland borders, cemeteries, roadsides, and waste areas. Cultivated forms of Goutweed include those with variegated and non-variegated leaves. However, wild specimens of Goutweed almost always have non-variegated leaves.
Faunal Associations: Floral-faunal relationships for this plant in North America are poorly understood. Müller (1873/1883) observed miscellaneous flies, beetles, wasps, small bees, and sawflies visiting the flowers for either nectar or pollen in Germany. Apparently the young foliage of Goutweed is considered edible to humans as it has been used in the Old World as a source of food and a medicinal herb.
Photographic Location: A flower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Like many other species in the Carrot family, Goutweed has compound umbels of small white flowers and compound leaves. It can be identified by the absence of floral bracts and bractlets underneath its flowers, and by the structure and shape of its leaves. Generally, its compound leaves have ternately arranged leaflets (divided into groups of 3), although the leaflets within a group sometimes occur in pairs. Compared with many other species in the Carrot family, these leaflets are relatively large in size and relatively broad in shape when one considers the size of the plant. Among native wildflowers, Honewort (Cryptotaenia canadensis) is similar in appearance to Goutweed, but the flowers of Honewort are even smaller in size and its compound leaves have only 3 leaflets, rather than 3 groups of leaflets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月18日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 3-9' tall and largely unbranched, except for some lateral ascending stems along the upper one-third of its length. The central stem is dark purple to pale purplish white, stout, terete, glabrous, and glaucous; the interior of the central stem is mostly hollow. The lateral stems are similar, except they are more narrow. Whorls of 4-7 leaves (usually 5-6) occur at intervals along the central stem; whorls of smaller leaves also occur along some of the lateral stems. Individual leaves are up to 9" long and 3" across; they are elliptic in shape and crenate-serrate along their margins. The upper leaf surface is medium green and glabrous; it is creased along the veins. The lower leaf surface is pale green and mostly glabrous, except for hairs along the lower sides of the veins. The petioles are up to ½" long, pale purple to dark purple, and stout.
The central stem terminates in a panicle of flowerheads up to 1½' long and 1' across; the upper lateral stems often terminate in panicles of flowerheads as well, except they are smaller in size. Individual panicles are rather open and dome-shaped at the top; they vary in color from pale pink-lavender to deep rosy pink. Individual flowerheads are about 9 mm. (1/3") long and 3 mm. (1/8") across, consisting of 5-7 disk florets and no ray florets. Each disk floret consists of a narrowly cylindrical corolla with 5 upright lobes, 5 inserted stamens, and a pistil with an exserted bifurcated style. The corolla is pink-lavender to rosy pink. At the base of each flowerhead, there are overlapping bracts (phyllaries) that are appressed together in several series. These bracts are usually linear-oblong, white with pink tints to light pink, and glabrous. The branches of each panicle are widely spreading to ascending; they are usually dark purple and finely pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1 month. The flowerheads are often mildly fragrant. Afterwards, the disk florets are replaced by small bullet-shaped achenes (about 3 mm. long) with tufts of bristly hair. They are distributed by the wind. The root system is mostly fibrous, although sometimes rhizomes are produced.Distribution Map
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and wet to moist conditions; the soil can contain loam, sand, or gravel. There is considerable variation in the size of individual plants. Exposure to high winds can cause some plants to topple over. Standing water is tolerated if it is temporary.
Range & Habitat: The native Hollow-Stemmed Joe-Pye Weed is an uncommon plant that is found in the southern tip of Illinois, SE Illinois, and widely scattered areas elsewhere. Habitats include wet sand prairies, seeps and springs in partially wooded areas, soggy thickets, fens, rocky sandstone ravines along streams, and low areas along railroads and roadsides. Sometimes this wildflower is cultivated in gardens, although many cultivars display some evidence of hybridization.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are visited by honeybees, bumblebees, and other long-tongued bees; other floral visitors include bee flies (Bombyliidae), butterflies, skippers, and moths. Most of these visitors obtain nectar from the flowerheads, although some bees also collect pollen. A modest number of insects feed on the foliage, flowers, stems, or roots of Hollow Joe-Pye Weed and other members of this genus. They include caterpillars of the following moths: Carmenta bassiformis (Eupatorium Borer Moth), Condica vecors (Dusky Groundling), Schinia trifascia (Three-Lined Flower Moth), Papaipema eupatorii (Joe-Pye Weed Borer), Perigea xanthioides (Red Groundling), and Phragmatobia fuliginosa (Ruby Tiger Moth). Other insect feeders include the aphid Aphis vernoniae, the treehopper Entylia bactriana, the leaf beetles Exema dispar and Ophraella notata, and the gall gnat Dasyneura purpurea. Joe-Pye Weed species (Eutrochium spp.) are used by vertebrate animals only to a limited extent. The Swamp Sparrow and probably other birds consume the seeds, while hoofed mammalian herbivores (e.g., deer & cattle) eat the bitter-tasting leaves only when little else is available.
Photographic Location: A wet sand prairie along a railroad at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana. Most of the flowerheads of the photographed plant are still in the bud stage.
Comments: This wildflower is an impressive sight as it towers above the surrounding vegetation in open areas. Two other species in this genus occur in Illinois: Eutrochium purpureum (Sweet Joe-Pye Weed) and Eutrochium maculatum (Spotted Joe-Pye Weed). Like Hollow Joe-Pye Weed, these are tall plants with similar flowerheads and whorled leaves. Hollow Joe-Pye Weed can be distinguished from these species by the greater number of leaves per whorl (sometimes exceeding 5), the strong white bloom of its central stem, and the largely hollow interior of its central stem. The other two species of Joe-Pye Weed have at most 5 leaves per whorl, their central stems are either glabrous or hairy, but not strongly glaucous, and the interior of their central stems is only slightly hollow or filled with pith. Other scientific names of Hollow Joe-Pye Weed include Eupatorium fistulosum and Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus.
The central stem terminates in a panicle of flowerheads up to 1½' long and 1' across; the upper lateral stems often terminate in panicles of flowerheads as well, except they are smaller in size. Individual panicles are rather open and dome-shaped at the top; they vary in color from pale pink-lavender to deep rosy pink. Individual flowerheads are about 9 mm. (1/3") long and 3 mm. (1/8") across, consisting of 5-7 disk florets and no ray florets. Each disk floret consists of a narrowly cylindrical corolla with 5 upright lobes, 5 inserted stamens, and a pistil with an exserted bifurcated style. The corolla is pink-lavender to rosy pink. At the base of each flowerhead, there are overlapping bracts (phyllaries) that are appressed together in several series. These bracts are usually linear-oblong, white with pink tints to light pink, and glabrous. The branches of each panicle are widely spreading to ascending; they are usually dark purple and finely pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1 month. The flowerheads are often mildly fragrant. Afterwards, the disk florets are replaced by small bullet-shaped achenes (about 3 mm. long) with tufts of bristly hair. They are distributed by the wind. The root system is mostly fibrous, although sometimes rhizomes are produced.Distribution Map
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and wet to moist conditions; the soil can contain loam, sand, or gravel. There is considerable variation in the size of individual plants. Exposure to high winds can cause some plants to topple over. Standing water is tolerated if it is temporary.
Range & Habitat: The native Hollow-Stemmed Joe-Pye Weed is an uncommon plant that is found in the southern tip of Illinois, SE Illinois, and widely scattered areas elsewhere. Habitats include wet sand prairies, seeps and springs in partially wooded areas, soggy thickets, fens, rocky sandstone ravines along streams, and low areas along railroads and roadsides. Sometimes this wildflower is cultivated in gardens, although many cultivars display some evidence of hybridization.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are visited by honeybees, bumblebees, and other long-tongued bees; other floral visitors include bee flies (Bombyliidae), butterflies, skippers, and moths. Most of these visitors obtain nectar from the flowerheads, although some bees also collect pollen. A modest number of insects feed on the foliage, flowers, stems, or roots of Hollow Joe-Pye Weed and other members of this genus. They include caterpillars of the following moths: Carmenta bassiformis (Eupatorium Borer Moth), Condica vecors (Dusky Groundling), Schinia trifascia (Three-Lined Flower Moth), Papaipema eupatorii (Joe-Pye Weed Borer), Perigea xanthioides (Red Groundling), and Phragmatobia fuliginosa (Ruby Tiger Moth). Other insect feeders include the aphid Aphis vernoniae, the treehopper Entylia bactriana, the leaf beetles Exema dispar and Ophraella notata, and the gall gnat Dasyneura purpurea. Joe-Pye Weed species (Eutrochium spp.) are used by vertebrate animals only to a limited extent. The Swamp Sparrow and probably other birds consume the seeds, while hoofed mammalian herbivores (e.g., deer & cattle) eat the bitter-tasting leaves only when little else is available.
Photographic Location: A wet sand prairie along a railroad at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana. Most of the flowerheads of the photographed plant are still in the bud stage.
Comments: This wildflower is an impressive sight as it towers above the surrounding vegetation in open areas. Two other species in this genus occur in Illinois: Eutrochium purpureum (Sweet Joe-Pye Weed) and Eutrochium maculatum (Spotted Joe-Pye Weed). Like Hollow Joe-Pye Weed, these are tall plants with similar flowerheads and whorled leaves. Hollow Joe-Pye Weed can be distinguished from these species by the greater number of leaves per whorl (sometimes exceeding 5), the strong white bloom of its central stem, and the largely hollow interior of its central stem. The other two species of Joe-Pye Weed have at most 5 leaves per whorl, their central stems are either glabrous or hairy, but not strongly glaucous, and the interior of their central stems is only slightly hollow or filled with pith. Other scientific names of Hollow Joe-Pye Weed include Eupatorium fistulosum and Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月15日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 3-9' tall, forming a central stem that is unbranched, except along the upper one-third of its length, where there may be a few ascending lateral stems. These stems are predominately reddish purple and terete; they are covered with spreading white hairs. Abundant spreading leaves occur along these stems; they are usually opposite below and alternate above. Individual leaves are 3-7" long and ½-1½" across; they are lanceolate-elliptic in shape and usually crenate-serrate along their margins. The upper leaf surface is medium green and rough-textured from minute stiff hairs, while the lower surface is pale green with spreading white hairs along the major veins and minute stiff hairs inbetween. The minute stiff hairs of the leaves are sparsely to moderately abundant in their distribution. Individual leaves taper gradually into short petioles up to ½" long, and they taper gradually into acute tips.
The upper stems terminate in one or more flowerheads about 2-3" across. Each flowerhead has 10-20 yellow ray florets that surround a dense circular cluster of yellow disk florets in the center. The petaloid extensions of the ray florets are oblong and slightly notched at their tips. The tiny disk florets are tubular in shape with 5 spreading to ascending lobes. The disk florets are perfect, while the ray florets are sterile. At the base of each flowerhead, there are floral bracts (phyllaries) that are loosely arranged in several series; they are ascending to widely spreading when the flowerhead is in bloom. Individual floral bracts are medium green, narrowly linear-lanceolate, and covered with stiff minute hairs; their margins are often ciliate. The peduncles (up to 6" long) of the flowerheads are similar to the stems, except they are usually light green. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall, lasting about 2 months. The disk florets are replaced by small achenes that are oblongoid and slightly flattened in shape; each achene has a truncate apex with a pair of membranous awns that soon become detached. The root system has fleshy fibrous roots and shallow rhizomes. Small colonies of plants often develop from the rhizomes.
Distribution MapCultivation: The preference is full sun, wet to moist conditions, and sandy soil. The size of individual plants is highly variable, depending on the level of moisture, nutrients, and competition from other plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Giant Sunflower is largely restricted to NE Illinois, where it is rare and state-listed as 'endangered.' It is more common in areas further to the north and east of Illinois. Habitats consist of wet sand prairies, sandy swales, calcareous fens, sedge meadows, and Tamarack bogs. This wildflower is found in higher quality wetlands.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract bumblebees and other long-tongued bees, Andrenid bees and other short-tongued bees, Syrphid flies and other flies, butterflies, and other insects. A variety of insects feed on the foliage, stalks, roots, and other parts of Giant Sunflower and other sunflowers (Helianthus spp.). These species include such beetles as Haplorhynchites aeneus (Sunflower Head-Clipping Weevil), Cylindrocopturus adspersus (Sunflower Stem Weevil), Rhodobaenus quinquepunctatus (Five-Spotted Billbug), Rhodobaenus tredecimpunctatus (Thirteen-Spotted Billbug), Systena blanda (Pale-Striped Flea Beetle) and other leaf beetles. The larvae of Contarinia schulzi (Sunflower Midge) cause club-shaped distortions in the buds and flowerheads, while the larvae of Strauzia longipennis (Sunflower Maggot) bore through the stems. The larvae of another fly, Neotephritis finalis (Sunflower Seed Maggot), feed from inside the achenes. Other insect feeders include the flower thrips Heterothrips auranticornis and the following plant bugs: Ilnacoris stalii, Plagiognathus nigronitens, and Polymerus basalis. In addition to these insects, a large number of aphids, leafhoppers, and treehoppers feed on sunflowers (see Aphid, Leafhopper, & Treehopper Table). Caterpillars of the butterflies Chlosyne nycteis (Silvery Checkerspot), Chlosyne gorgone (Gorgone Checkerspot), and Vanessa cardui (Painted Lady) sometimes feed on sunflowers, as do the caterpillars of many moths (see Moth Table). The seeds of sunflowers are eaten by many birds during the fall and winter, including the Mourning Dove, White-Winged Crossbill, Eastern Goldfinch, Black-Capped Chickadee, White-Breasted Nuthatch, Tufted Titmouse, and various sparrows. The foliage of sunflowers is palatable to White Tailed Deer and other hoofed grazing mammals, while the seeds are eaten by the Meadow Vole and other small rodents. Because Giant Sunflower occurs in wetlands, its large stalks are sometimes used by beavers in the construction of their dams and lodges. This tall colonial plant also provides protective cover for many kinds of wildlife.
Photographic Location: A prairie at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This attractive sunflower can be distinguished from other sunflowers in Illinois by its relatively narrow leaves, alternation of its leaves along the stems, spreading hairs of its stems, yellow disk florets, and long slender phyllaries (floral bracts). Other narrow-leaved species of sunflowers within the state include Helianthus grosseserratus (Sawtooth Sunflower) and Helianthus pauciflorus (Prairie Sunflower). Sawtooth Sunflower can be distinguished by its hairless glaucous stems, while the Prairie Sunflower can be distinguished by its stouter phyllaries and reddish purple disk florets. Another species, Helianthus tuberosus (Jerusalem Artichoke), has hairy stems like Giant Sunflower, but the leaves of Jerusalem Artichoke are wider and its petioles are longer. Yet another species, Helianthus hirsutus (Hairy Sunflower), also has hairy stems like Giant Sunflower, but the leaves of Hairy Sunflower are arranged oppositely along its stems, rather than alternately.
The upper stems terminate in one or more flowerheads about 2-3" across. Each flowerhead has 10-20 yellow ray florets that surround a dense circular cluster of yellow disk florets in the center. The petaloid extensions of the ray florets are oblong and slightly notched at their tips. The tiny disk florets are tubular in shape with 5 spreading to ascending lobes. The disk florets are perfect, while the ray florets are sterile. At the base of each flowerhead, there are floral bracts (phyllaries) that are loosely arranged in several series; they are ascending to widely spreading when the flowerhead is in bloom. Individual floral bracts are medium green, narrowly linear-lanceolate, and covered with stiff minute hairs; their margins are often ciliate. The peduncles (up to 6" long) of the flowerheads are similar to the stems, except they are usually light green. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall, lasting about 2 months. The disk florets are replaced by small achenes that are oblongoid and slightly flattened in shape; each achene has a truncate apex with a pair of membranous awns that soon become detached. The root system has fleshy fibrous roots and shallow rhizomes. Small colonies of plants often develop from the rhizomes.
Distribution MapCultivation: The preference is full sun, wet to moist conditions, and sandy soil. The size of individual plants is highly variable, depending on the level of moisture, nutrients, and competition from other plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Giant Sunflower is largely restricted to NE Illinois, where it is rare and state-listed as 'endangered.' It is more common in areas further to the north and east of Illinois. Habitats consist of wet sand prairies, sandy swales, calcareous fens, sedge meadows, and Tamarack bogs. This wildflower is found in higher quality wetlands.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract bumblebees and other long-tongued bees, Andrenid bees and other short-tongued bees, Syrphid flies and other flies, butterflies, and other insects. A variety of insects feed on the foliage, stalks, roots, and other parts of Giant Sunflower and other sunflowers (Helianthus spp.). These species include such beetles as Haplorhynchites aeneus (Sunflower Head-Clipping Weevil), Cylindrocopturus adspersus (Sunflower Stem Weevil), Rhodobaenus quinquepunctatus (Five-Spotted Billbug), Rhodobaenus tredecimpunctatus (Thirteen-Spotted Billbug), Systena blanda (Pale-Striped Flea Beetle) and other leaf beetles. The larvae of Contarinia schulzi (Sunflower Midge) cause club-shaped distortions in the buds and flowerheads, while the larvae of Strauzia longipennis (Sunflower Maggot) bore through the stems. The larvae of another fly, Neotephritis finalis (Sunflower Seed Maggot), feed from inside the achenes. Other insect feeders include the flower thrips Heterothrips auranticornis and the following plant bugs: Ilnacoris stalii, Plagiognathus nigronitens, and Polymerus basalis. In addition to these insects, a large number of aphids, leafhoppers, and treehoppers feed on sunflowers (see Aphid, Leafhopper, & Treehopper Table). Caterpillars of the butterflies Chlosyne nycteis (Silvery Checkerspot), Chlosyne gorgone (Gorgone Checkerspot), and Vanessa cardui (Painted Lady) sometimes feed on sunflowers, as do the caterpillars of many moths (see Moth Table). The seeds of sunflowers are eaten by many birds during the fall and winter, including the Mourning Dove, White-Winged Crossbill, Eastern Goldfinch, Black-Capped Chickadee, White-Breasted Nuthatch, Tufted Titmouse, and various sparrows. The foliage of sunflowers is palatable to White Tailed Deer and other hoofed grazing mammals, while the seeds are eaten by the Meadow Vole and other small rodents. Because Giant Sunflower occurs in wetlands, its large stalks are sometimes used by beavers in the construction of their dams and lodges. This tall colonial plant also provides protective cover for many kinds of wildlife.
Photographic Location: A prairie at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This attractive sunflower can be distinguished from other sunflowers in Illinois by its relatively narrow leaves, alternation of its leaves along the stems, spreading hairs of its stems, yellow disk florets, and long slender phyllaries (floral bracts). Other narrow-leaved species of sunflowers within the state include Helianthus grosseserratus (Sawtooth Sunflower) and Helianthus pauciflorus (Prairie Sunflower). Sawtooth Sunflower can be distinguished by its hairless glaucous stems, while the Prairie Sunflower can be distinguished by its stouter phyllaries and reddish purple disk florets. Another species, Helianthus tuberosus (Jerusalem Artichoke), has hairy stems like Giant Sunflower, but the leaves of Jerusalem Artichoke are wider and its petioles are longer. Yet another species, Helianthus hirsutus (Hairy Sunflower), also has hairy stems like Giant Sunflower, but the leaves of Hairy Sunflower are arranged oppositely along its stems, rather than alternately.
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