文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月16日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is about 3-6' tall and forms an erect, sparsely branched bush, although it is herbaceous. The stout central stem and upper side stems are smooth, light green or reddish purple, and glaucous. The compound leaves are trifoliate. They are usually greyish green or blue green, and hairless. Each leaflet is ovate or oblanceolate and pointed at both ends, with smooth margins, and about 2" long and ¾" across. The white flowers occur in erect spike-like racemes up to 2' long and are quite showy. They are typical pea flowers in overall structure, and about 1" long. There is no floral scent. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about 1-1½ months. The flowers are replaced by large oblong seedpods, which are also rather showy. They are about 2" long and initially green, but later turn black. There is a stout deep taproot, and rhizomes that may form vegetative offsets. Once established, White Wild Indigo grows very quickly during the spring – it often towers above the surrounding plants by blooming time.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and moist to slightly dry soil. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, clay, gravelly material, or sand. This plant is not fussy about growing conditions, and is easy to grow. However, it dislikes alkaline soil and may fail to bloom in shady conditions. Like other wild indigos, this plant may take several years to reach blooming size, but it is long-lived. The roots increase nitrogen levels in the soil.
Range & Habitat: The native White Wild Indigo is widely distributed and occurs in almost every county of Illinois, but it is usually uncommon (see Distribution Map). In a few areas that are scattered around the state, this plant is locally common. Some local populations may be escaped cultivated plants, or the result of restoration efforts. Habitats include moist to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, thickets, edges of marshes and sandy marshes, borders of lakes, limestone glades, and dry clay hills. White Wild Indigo is typically found in less disturbed habitats, partly because of limited seed dispersion. Occasional wildfires are readily tolerated.
Faunal Associations: Worker bumblebees pollinate the flowers. The caterpillars of some skippers and butterflies occasionally feed on the foliage, including Erynnis baptisiae (Wild Indigo Duskywing), Achelerus lyciades (Hoary Edge), Colias cesonia (Southern Dogface), and Colias eurythema (Orange Sulfur). The caterpillars of the moth Dasylophus anguina (Black-spotted Prominent) can also be found on the foliage. Another insect, Apion rostrum (Wild Indigo Weevil), feeds on this plant and other Baptisia spp. The adult weevils eat both the leaves and flowers, while their grubs stay in the pods and eat the seeds. Because White Wild Indigo is poisonous, it is not much bothered by mammalian herbivores. If cattle, horses, or other kinds of livestock consume sufficient quantities of this plant, they can be seriously poisoned.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the racemes and leaf close-up were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Large specimens of this wildflower are very striking while they are in bloom. White Wild Indigo is considerably taller than the related Baptisia bracteata (Cream Wild Indigo), which has spreading racemes of flowers that bloom earlier in the year. Other species of this genus in Illinois have yellow or blue-violet flowers. Another scientific name of White Wild Indigo is Baptisia leucantha.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and moist to slightly dry soil. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, clay, gravelly material, or sand. This plant is not fussy about growing conditions, and is easy to grow. However, it dislikes alkaline soil and may fail to bloom in shady conditions. Like other wild indigos, this plant may take several years to reach blooming size, but it is long-lived. The roots increase nitrogen levels in the soil.
Range & Habitat: The native White Wild Indigo is widely distributed and occurs in almost every county of Illinois, but it is usually uncommon (see Distribution Map). In a few areas that are scattered around the state, this plant is locally common. Some local populations may be escaped cultivated plants, or the result of restoration efforts. Habitats include moist to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, thickets, edges of marshes and sandy marshes, borders of lakes, limestone glades, and dry clay hills. White Wild Indigo is typically found in less disturbed habitats, partly because of limited seed dispersion. Occasional wildfires are readily tolerated.
Faunal Associations: Worker bumblebees pollinate the flowers. The caterpillars of some skippers and butterflies occasionally feed on the foliage, including Erynnis baptisiae (Wild Indigo Duskywing), Achelerus lyciades (Hoary Edge), Colias cesonia (Southern Dogface), and Colias eurythema (Orange Sulfur). The caterpillars of the moth Dasylophus anguina (Black-spotted Prominent) can also be found on the foliage. Another insect, Apion rostrum (Wild Indigo Weevil), feeds on this plant and other Baptisia spp. The adult weevils eat both the leaves and flowers, while their grubs stay in the pods and eat the seeds. Because White Wild Indigo is poisonous, it is not much bothered by mammalian herbivores. If cattle, horses, or other kinds of livestock consume sufficient quantities of this plant, they can be seriously poisoned.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the racemes and leaf close-up were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Large specimens of this wildflower are very striking while they are in bloom. White Wild Indigo is considerably taller than the related Baptisia bracteata (Cream Wild Indigo), which has spreading racemes of flowers that bloom earlier in the year. Other species of this genus in Illinois have yellow or blue-violet flowers. Another scientific name of White Wild Indigo is Baptisia leucantha.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Hoyas are popular houseplants with long trailing stems, waxy leaves and fragrant flowers. Some varieties of hoyas bloom in spring and summer, some flower in fall and winter, and some bloom sporadically throughout the year. Although there are between 300 and 400 varieties, the wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is most commonly grown.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月14日
Description: This perennial plant is 1½–3½' tall, branching occasionally. The ridged stems are pubescent. The alternate compound leaves are odd pinnate, and 5-9" long, with about 21-31 leaflets. The oblong leaflets are about 1½" long and 3/8" across, with smooth edges. From the upper axils of the compound leaves there occasionally develops a whorled raceme of flowers from a stout stalk. A raceme (including the stalk) is usually about 1-2" longer than the compound leaves subtending it, or about 7-11" long. A typical raceme is crowded with about 75 creamy flowers, which may have yellow or green tints. Each flower is about ¾" long and tubular-shaped, although jutting slightly upward toward the outer tip. It consists of five petals, including a curved upper hood, a lower keel, and close-fitting side petals. The blooming period occurs during the summer and lasts about 2-3 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. The flowers are replaced by stout oval pods with long pointed tips, which are held nearly erect on the stalk. The root system consists of a taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and mesic conditions. Canada Milkvetch grows well on most kinds of soil, and probably fixes some nitrogen. It's a robust plant, although the foliage sometimes turns prematurely yellow. This plant has a tendency to sprawl, unless it receives support from adjacent vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Canada Milkvetch occurs occasionally in the northern half of Illinois, but it is rather uncommon in most areas of southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, typical and sandy savannas, thickets and woodland borders, moist meadows near rivers, and abandoned fields.
Faunal Associations: Primarily bumblebees visit the flowers for nectar. Other long-tongued bee visitors include honeybees and Megachile spp. (Large Leaf-Cutting Bees). Insects with shorter mouthparts have trouble reaching the nectar, nor is the pollen easy to access. Unlike many milkvetches of the Western states, the foliage of Canada Milkvetch is non-toxic and palatable to mammalian herbivores, including deer, groundhogs, rabbits, and livestock. This plant may be difficult to establish where these animals occur in abundance. The seeds may be eaten occasionally by the Wild Turkey and other upland gamebirds, as well as small rodents, such as the Thirteen-Lined Ground Squirrel; however, such observations are confined largely to the Western states, where Astragalus spp. are more abundant.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: There are very few Astragalus spp. that occur in Illinois. Canada Milkvetch has a distinctive appearance on account of its size (up to 3½' tall) and abundant creamy flowers (about 75 per raceme). Some pale-flowered vetches are superficially similar in appearance, such as Vicia carolina (Carolina Vetch). However, vetches are vine-like plants with tendrils, while Canada Milkvetch is a semi-erect plant without tendrils (although it may clamber over adjacent vegetation, nonetheless). Another difference is the inflorescence: the raceme of Canada Milkvetch is whorled with about 75 flowers, while Vicia spp. have one- or two-sided racemes with fewer flowers.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and mesic conditions. Canada Milkvetch grows well on most kinds of soil, and probably fixes some nitrogen. It's a robust plant, although the foliage sometimes turns prematurely yellow. This plant has a tendency to sprawl, unless it receives support from adjacent vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Canada Milkvetch occurs occasionally in the northern half of Illinois, but it is rather uncommon in most areas of southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, typical and sandy savannas, thickets and woodland borders, moist meadows near rivers, and abandoned fields.
Faunal Associations: Primarily bumblebees visit the flowers for nectar. Other long-tongued bee visitors include honeybees and Megachile spp. (Large Leaf-Cutting Bees). Insects with shorter mouthparts have trouble reaching the nectar, nor is the pollen easy to access. Unlike many milkvetches of the Western states, the foliage of Canada Milkvetch is non-toxic and palatable to mammalian herbivores, including deer, groundhogs, rabbits, and livestock. This plant may be difficult to establish where these animals occur in abundance. The seeds may be eaten occasionally by the Wild Turkey and other upland gamebirds, as well as small rodents, such as the Thirteen-Lined Ground Squirrel; however, such observations are confined largely to the Western states, where Astragalus spp. are more abundant.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: There are very few Astragalus spp. that occur in Illinois. Canada Milkvetch has a distinctive appearance on account of its size (up to 3½' tall) and abundant creamy flowers (about 75 per raceme). Some pale-flowered vetches are superficially similar in appearance, such as Vicia carolina (Carolina Vetch). However, vetches are vine-like plants with tendrils, while Canada Milkvetch is a semi-erect plant without tendrils (although it may clamber over adjacent vegetation, nonetheless). Another difference is the inflorescence: the raceme of Canada Milkvetch is whorled with about 75 flowers, while Vicia spp. have one- or two-sided racemes with fewer flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月14日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 1-2½' tall. Young plants develop from a single central stem, while older plants tiller at the base, sending up multiple erect to ascending stems from a large taproot. These stems are unbranched below, becoming branched above where the flowers occur. The stems are light green to dull reddish purple, terete, and more or less covered with spreading hairs. Densely distributed along these stems, are alternate leaves that differ little in size. These leaves are 2½–3½" long and ½–¾" across; they are linear-oblong to lanceolate-oblong in shape, while their margins are entire (toothless). The tips of the leaves are acute, while their bases are slightly cordate, truncate, or rounded. The leaves are sessile, or they have short petioles up to 3 mm. long. The upper leaf surface is medium to dark green and glabrous to sparsely short-pubescent, while the lower leaf surface is light to light-medium green and mostly short-pubescent. Along the lower sides of the major veins, this pubescence is somewhat longer. The foliage of this plant lacks a milky latex. Usually several umbels of flowers develop from the upper stems and the axils of upper leaves. These umbels span 1–2½" across, consisting of 8-25 flowers each; they are slightly dome-shaped and often horizontally adjacent to each other.
Each flower consists of 5 sepals, 5 petals, 5 hoods with horns, and a central reproductive column that is white to light green and short. The sepals are light green, hairy, and lanceolate in shape; they are largely hidden when the flowers open. The petals are more or less orange, lanceolate in shape, and declined (bent downward). The hoods are more or less orange, erect, and curved-ovate, forming open oblique tubes. The horns are more or less orange, sickle-shaped, incurved, and exserted from the hoods (one horn per hood). Usually the petals, hoods, and horns are orange, but sometimes they are reddish orange or yellowish orange. The pedicels are ¾–1½" long, light green or light reddish purple, terete, and more or less covered with spreading hairs. At the base of these pedicels, there are several spreading bracts up to 8 mm. long; they are green, linear-lanceolate in shape, and pubescent. The peduncles of the umbels are ½–2½" long, light green to dull reddish purple, terete, and hairy. The flowers bloom during early to mid-summer and sometimes a second time during late summer to early autumn. The flowers are relatively long-lasting, but they have no noticeable fragrance. Flowers that have been successfully cross-pollinated are replaced by follicles (seedpods that open along one side). These follicles are 4-6" long and ½–¾" across at maturity; they are initially light green, but later turn brown. The follicle surface is smooth and short-pubescent. These follicles eventually split open to release their seeds to the wind. Mature seeds are about 4 mm. long, flattened-oval in shape, brown, and narrowly winged along their margins; the apices of these seeds have large tufts of white hair. The root system consists of a woody taproot that is thick and knobby. This taproot can extend several feet below the ground surface.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and an acidic soil that is sandy or rocky. However, this plant will adapt to other kinds of soil, including those that contain loam or clay, if they are well-drained. Although this plant develops somewhat slowly, it is easy to cultivate in open sunny areas once it becomes established. Tolerance to hot dry weather is excellent. If the taproot of a young plant is planted too close to the soil surface, it may become damaged by frost due to heaving of the soil.
Range & Habitat: The native Butterfly Milkweed is occasional to locally common in Illinois, except for the western section of the state, where it is less common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland sand prairies, hill prairies, cemetery prairies, sandy savannas, open rocky woodlands, shale and sandstone glades (in southern Illinois), abandoned sandy fields, roadside embankments, and areas along railroads. Because of the showy orange flowers, Butterfly Milkweed is often cultivated in gardens. This milkweed is found in both disturbed areas and high quality natural areas. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant as this reduces competition from woody vegetation and taller herbaceous vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The flower nectar attracts honeybees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (including green metallic bees), thread-waisted wasps (Ammophila spp.) and other Sphecid wasps, and butterflies, including Fritillaries (Speyeria spp.), Swallowtails (Papilio spp.), and the Monarch (Danaus plexippus); see Robertson (1929). The Ruby-throated Hummingbird is also attracted to the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on the leaves, flowers and buds, seedpods, and other parts of Butterfly Milkweed. These insects include larvae of the Blackened Milkweed Beetle (Tetraopes melanurus), the Small Milkweed Bug (Lygaeus kalmii), the Large Milkweed Bug (Oncopeltus fasciatus), larvae of a butterfly, the Monarch (Danaus plexippus), and larvae of a moth, the Unexpected Cycnia (Cycnia inopinatus). Butterfly Milkweed is the preferred host plant of the preceding moth (see Yanega, 1996; Betz et al., 1997; Wagner, 2005). A polyphagous insect, the Curve-tailed Bush Katydid (Scudderia curvicauda), was observed to feed on the leaves of this milkweed (Gangwere, 1961); it may also feed on the flowers. While the foliage of Butterfly Milkweed lacks the toxic milky latex that is typical of other milkweeds (Asclepias spp.), mammalian herbivores nonetheless appear to avoid it.
Photographic Location: The above photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden, Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden at the Anita Purvis Nature Center of the same city.
Comments: This is perhaps the showiest of the milkweeds (Asclepias spp.) because of the long-lasting and colorful flowers. Because Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) is the only milkweed in Illinois that has orange flowers, it is easy to identify. This species is also unusual for a milkweed because its leaves are alternate and its foliage lacks a milky latex. Because of the absence of milky latex, it is often referred to as Butterfly Weed, rather than Butterfly Milkweed. The thick and bitter-tasting roots were used for various medicinal purposes in the past, including the treatment of pleurisy. As a result, another common name for this species is Pleurisy Root.
Each flower consists of 5 sepals, 5 petals, 5 hoods with horns, and a central reproductive column that is white to light green and short. The sepals are light green, hairy, and lanceolate in shape; they are largely hidden when the flowers open. The petals are more or less orange, lanceolate in shape, and declined (bent downward). The hoods are more or less orange, erect, and curved-ovate, forming open oblique tubes. The horns are more or less orange, sickle-shaped, incurved, and exserted from the hoods (one horn per hood). Usually the petals, hoods, and horns are orange, but sometimes they are reddish orange or yellowish orange. The pedicels are ¾–1½" long, light green or light reddish purple, terete, and more or less covered with spreading hairs. At the base of these pedicels, there are several spreading bracts up to 8 mm. long; they are green, linear-lanceolate in shape, and pubescent. The peduncles of the umbels are ½–2½" long, light green to dull reddish purple, terete, and hairy. The flowers bloom during early to mid-summer and sometimes a second time during late summer to early autumn. The flowers are relatively long-lasting, but they have no noticeable fragrance. Flowers that have been successfully cross-pollinated are replaced by follicles (seedpods that open along one side). These follicles are 4-6" long and ½–¾" across at maturity; they are initially light green, but later turn brown. The follicle surface is smooth and short-pubescent. These follicles eventually split open to release their seeds to the wind. Mature seeds are about 4 mm. long, flattened-oval in shape, brown, and narrowly winged along their margins; the apices of these seeds have large tufts of white hair. The root system consists of a woody taproot that is thick and knobby. This taproot can extend several feet below the ground surface.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and an acidic soil that is sandy or rocky. However, this plant will adapt to other kinds of soil, including those that contain loam or clay, if they are well-drained. Although this plant develops somewhat slowly, it is easy to cultivate in open sunny areas once it becomes established. Tolerance to hot dry weather is excellent. If the taproot of a young plant is planted too close to the soil surface, it may become damaged by frost due to heaving of the soil.
Range & Habitat: The native Butterfly Milkweed is occasional to locally common in Illinois, except for the western section of the state, where it is less common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland sand prairies, hill prairies, cemetery prairies, sandy savannas, open rocky woodlands, shale and sandstone glades (in southern Illinois), abandoned sandy fields, roadside embankments, and areas along railroads. Because of the showy orange flowers, Butterfly Milkweed is often cultivated in gardens. This milkweed is found in both disturbed areas and high quality natural areas. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant as this reduces competition from woody vegetation and taller herbaceous vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The flower nectar attracts honeybees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (including green metallic bees), thread-waisted wasps (Ammophila spp.) and other Sphecid wasps, and butterflies, including Fritillaries (Speyeria spp.), Swallowtails (Papilio spp.), and the Monarch (Danaus plexippus); see Robertson (1929). The Ruby-throated Hummingbird is also attracted to the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on the leaves, flowers and buds, seedpods, and other parts of Butterfly Milkweed. These insects include larvae of the Blackened Milkweed Beetle (Tetraopes melanurus), the Small Milkweed Bug (Lygaeus kalmii), the Large Milkweed Bug (Oncopeltus fasciatus), larvae of a butterfly, the Monarch (Danaus plexippus), and larvae of a moth, the Unexpected Cycnia (Cycnia inopinatus). Butterfly Milkweed is the preferred host plant of the preceding moth (see Yanega, 1996; Betz et al., 1997; Wagner, 2005). A polyphagous insect, the Curve-tailed Bush Katydid (Scudderia curvicauda), was observed to feed on the leaves of this milkweed (Gangwere, 1961); it may also feed on the flowers. While the foliage of Butterfly Milkweed lacks the toxic milky latex that is typical of other milkweeds (Asclepias spp.), mammalian herbivores nonetheless appear to avoid it.
Photographic Location: The above photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden, Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden at the Anita Purvis Nature Center of the same city.
Comments: This is perhaps the showiest of the milkweeds (Asclepias spp.) because of the long-lasting and colorful flowers. Because Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) is the only milkweed in Illinois that has orange flowers, it is easy to identify. This species is also unusual for a milkweed because its leaves are alternate and its foliage lacks a milky latex. Because of the absence of milky latex, it is often referred to as Butterfly Weed, rather than Butterfly Milkweed. The thick and bitter-tasting roots were used for various medicinal purposes in the past, including the treatment of pleurisy. As a result, another common name for this species is Pleurisy Root.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月13日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1½–3' tall, producing one or more unbranched stems at the base that are erect to ascending. The stems are light green to reddish green and glabrous to densely pubescent. Along each stem, there are numerous alternate leaves that are ascending to widely spreading. Individual leaves are 2-6" long and 1/8-1/2" (3-12 mm.) across; they are linear to linear-lanceolate and smooth along their margins. Their upper surfaces are medium green and glabrous. The leaves often curve upward along their central veins. The petioles of the leaves are about ¼" long and light green. Globoid umbels of greenish white flowers about 1½-2" across develop from the axils of the middle to upper leaves (one umbel per leaf). Each umbel has 30-100 flowers on pedicels about ½-¾" long. The slender pedicels are light green and pubescent. Individual flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across and 1/4" (6 mm.) long. Each flower has 5 sepals, a corolla with 5 narrow lobes, 5 upright hoods without horns, and a short central column containing the reproductive organs. The lobes of the corolla hang downward from the face of the flower (pointing toward the center of the umbel). The lobes are mostly greenish white, although they become purplish toward their tips. The peduncles of the umbels are about 1-1½" long, light green, and pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about 2 months. Fertile flowers develop into follicles (seedpods that split open along one side) about 4-5" long and up to ½" across that are narrowly lanceoloid in shape. The surface of each follicle is canescent and smooth. Each follicle contain numerous seeds with tufts of white hair that are released to the wind at maturity. The root system consists of a taproot. This wildflower spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist to dry conditions, and sandy or gravelly soil. Soil containing loam or clay-loam is also tolerated.
Range & Habitat: Tall Green Milkweed is occasional throughout Illinois. It is a native herbaceous plant. Habitats include dry-mesic railroad prairies, sand prairies, rocky glades, edges of sandy wetlands, roadsides, pastures, and abandoned fields. This milkweed can be found in both high quality habitats and disturbed areas that are sunny.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Tall Green Milkweed are cross-pollinated primarily by long-tongued bees and wasps. Bee visitors include honeybees, bumblebees, and leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.). To a lesser extent, the flowers also attractsmall butterflies and day-flying moths (e.g., Cisseps fulvicollis). These insects obtain nectar from the flowers. Milkweeds attract a special group of insects that are oligophagous on various parts of these plants. These insect feeders include caterpillars of the butterfly Danaus plexippus (Monarch) and caterpillars of the moths Cycnia inopinatus (Unexpected Cycnia), Cycnia tenera (Delicate Cycnia), and Euchaetes egle (Milkweed Tiger Moth). Some of these moths seem to prefer some Asclepias spp. over others. The larvae of some long-horned beetles bore through the stems and roots of milkweeds, specifically: Tetraopes tetrophthalmus (Red Milkweed Beetle), Tetraopes femoratus (Large Red Milkweed Beetle), and Tetraopes quinquemaculatus. This last species has been found on Tall Green Milkweed. When the follicles of milkweeds are present, the seeds are eaten by Lygaeus kalmii (Small Milkweed Bug) and Oncopeltus fasciatus (Large Milkweed Bug). Occasionally, aphids are found on the upper stems and leaf undersides; these species include Aphis asclepiadis, Myzocallis asclepiadis, Myzocallis punctatus, and Aphis nerii (Introduced Milkweed Aphid). Because the milky latex of the leaves and stems contain cardiac glycosides and possess a bitter flavor, they are usually avoided by mammalian herbivores. The White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds of milkweeds to a minor extent, while the Eastern Goldfinch uses the silky hairs of the seeds in the construction of its nests.
Photographic Location: A prairie in Fayette County, Illinois. The photograph of the flowering plant was taken by Keith & Patty Horn (Copyright © 2009). A caterpillar of the Monarch butterfly is conspicuous in this photo.
Comments: Tall Green Milkweed is one of the lesser known species of milkweed that is occasionally found in upland prairies. It is distinguished primarily by its greenish white umbels of flowers, lack of horns in the hoods of the flowers, and narrow alternate leaves. It also produces more umbels of flowers per plant than most milkweeds. Other milkweeds usually have opposite leaves. A somewhat similar species, Asclepias viridiflora (Short Green Milkweed), is a shorter plant with pairs of opposite leaves. It produces only 1-2 umbels of flowers that nod downward. Another similar species, Asclepias verticillata (Whorled Milkweed), is a smaller plant with whorls of grass-like leaves; these leaves are more narrow (filiform-linear) than those of Tall Green Milkweed.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist to dry conditions, and sandy or gravelly soil. Soil containing loam or clay-loam is also tolerated.
Range & Habitat: Tall Green Milkweed is occasional throughout Illinois. It is a native herbaceous plant. Habitats include dry-mesic railroad prairies, sand prairies, rocky glades, edges of sandy wetlands, roadsides, pastures, and abandoned fields. This milkweed can be found in both high quality habitats and disturbed areas that are sunny.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Tall Green Milkweed are cross-pollinated primarily by long-tongued bees and wasps. Bee visitors include honeybees, bumblebees, and leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.). To a lesser extent, the flowers also attractsmall butterflies and day-flying moths (e.g., Cisseps fulvicollis). These insects obtain nectar from the flowers. Milkweeds attract a special group of insects that are oligophagous on various parts of these plants. These insect feeders include caterpillars of the butterfly Danaus plexippus (Monarch) and caterpillars of the moths Cycnia inopinatus (Unexpected Cycnia), Cycnia tenera (Delicate Cycnia), and Euchaetes egle (Milkweed Tiger Moth). Some of these moths seem to prefer some Asclepias spp. over others. The larvae of some long-horned beetles bore through the stems and roots of milkweeds, specifically: Tetraopes tetrophthalmus (Red Milkweed Beetle), Tetraopes femoratus (Large Red Milkweed Beetle), and Tetraopes quinquemaculatus. This last species has been found on Tall Green Milkweed. When the follicles of milkweeds are present, the seeds are eaten by Lygaeus kalmii (Small Milkweed Bug) and Oncopeltus fasciatus (Large Milkweed Bug). Occasionally, aphids are found on the upper stems and leaf undersides; these species include Aphis asclepiadis, Myzocallis asclepiadis, Myzocallis punctatus, and Aphis nerii (Introduced Milkweed Aphid). Because the milky latex of the leaves and stems contain cardiac glycosides and possess a bitter flavor, they are usually avoided by mammalian herbivores. The White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds of milkweeds to a minor extent, while the Eastern Goldfinch uses the silky hairs of the seeds in the construction of its nests.
Photographic Location: A prairie in Fayette County, Illinois. The photograph of the flowering plant was taken by Keith & Patty Horn (Copyright © 2009). A caterpillar of the Monarch butterfly is conspicuous in this photo.
Comments: Tall Green Milkweed is one of the lesser known species of milkweed that is occasionally found in upland prairies. It is distinguished primarily by its greenish white umbels of flowers, lack of horns in the hoods of the flowers, and narrow alternate leaves. It also produces more umbels of flowers per plant than most milkweeds. Other milkweeds usually have opposite leaves. A somewhat similar species, Asclepias viridiflora (Short Green Milkweed), is a shorter plant with pairs of opposite leaves. It produces only 1-2 umbels of flowers that nod downward. Another similar species, Asclepias verticillata (Whorled Milkweed), is a smaller plant with whorls of grass-like leaves; these leaves are more narrow (filiform-linear) than those of Tall Green Milkweed.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月13日
Description: This perennial plant becomes about 2-3' tall when it is mature, branching occasionally in the upper half. The stems are covered in a dense mat of short white hairs. The alternate leaves are up to 3½" long and 1" across. They are usually oblanceolate, narrowly ovate, or linear. The lower leaves may have a few lobes or coarse teeth towards their tips, while the upper leaves have smooth margins. Like the stems, the leaves have a dense mat of short white hairs, especially on the lower surface. This variety of White Sage has dense white hairs on the upper surface of the leaves as well, except for the oldest leaves toward the bottom of the plant. The leaves are sessile against the stem, or have short petioles. Some of the upper stems terminate in elongated spikes or narrow racemes of compound flowers. Each flowerhead is only 1/8" (3 mm.) across, and contains numerous whitish green disk florets that are inconspicuous. The blooming period is late summer to early fall, and lasts about 2-3 weeks. There is no floral scent, although the foliage of this plant is quite aromatic. Pollination is by wind, rather than insects. The tiny seeds are without tufts of hair, but are small enough to be distributed by the wind. The root system is rhizomatous, and can form a dense mat of roots near the surface of the ground. As a result, this plant has a strong tendency to form clonal colonies that exclude other plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and dry conditions. Poor soil containing hardpan clay, rocky material, or sand is actually preferred as a medium for growth, as this reduces competition from other plants. The foliage is very attractive and doesn't have significant problems with disease. This plant can spread aggressively in some situations.
Range & Habitat: White Sage is occasional in northern and western Illinois, but rare or absent in other parts of the state (see Distribution Map). Some authorities think this plant is native to Illinois (e.g., Britton & Brown), while others believe it is adventive from the west (e.g., Mohlenbrock). It is usually found along railroads and roadsides, and sometimes in dry upland areas of prairies. Cultivated forms of this plant can be found in flower gardens because of the attractive foliage. If this plant is native, Illinois would be at the eastern boundary of its distribution.
Faunal Associations: The flowers don't attract insects because they are wind-pollinated. White Sage has the potential to cause allergies in humans because of this pollen, but this species isn't very common within the state. Several grasshopper species feed on the foliage of White Sage (see Grasshopper Table), including an uncommon oligolectic grasshopper, Hypochlora alba (Cudweed Grasshopper), which often feeds hides in the foliage during the day. Other insect feeders include Ophraella artemisiae (Leaf Beetle sp.), Macrosiphoniella ludovicianae (Aphid sp.), and the larvae of Phaneta argenticostana (Tortricid Moth sp.); the moth larvae feed on the seedheads. Mammalian herbivores don't consume this plant because the aromatic foliage has a bitter taste. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, where a small colony of plants was located in a restored prairie. The plants were not in bloom.
Comments: This variety of White Sage has striking foliage. The typical variety, Artemisia ludoviciana ludoviciana, has greener foliage with fewer white hairs. The leaves of this latter variety are supposed to be broader and more likely to have lobes or serrated margins toward the leaf tips. However, the hairiness and shape of the leaves can be rather variable for this species, regardless of the variety. Other Artemisia spp. have foliage that is more green and pinnately lobed. A few species, such as the introduced Artemisia vulgaris (Mugwort), have silvery hairs on the lower surface of the leaves, but their upper surface is predominantly green.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and dry conditions. Poor soil containing hardpan clay, rocky material, or sand is actually preferred as a medium for growth, as this reduces competition from other plants. The foliage is very attractive and doesn't have significant problems with disease. This plant can spread aggressively in some situations.
Range & Habitat: White Sage is occasional in northern and western Illinois, but rare or absent in other parts of the state (see Distribution Map). Some authorities think this plant is native to Illinois (e.g., Britton & Brown), while others believe it is adventive from the west (e.g., Mohlenbrock). It is usually found along railroads and roadsides, and sometimes in dry upland areas of prairies. Cultivated forms of this plant can be found in flower gardens because of the attractive foliage. If this plant is native, Illinois would be at the eastern boundary of its distribution.
Faunal Associations: The flowers don't attract insects because they are wind-pollinated. White Sage has the potential to cause allergies in humans because of this pollen, but this species isn't very common within the state. Several grasshopper species feed on the foliage of White Sage (see Grasshopper Table), including an uncommon oligolectic grasshopper, Hypochlora alba (Cudweed Grasshopper), which often feeds hides in the foliage during the day. Other insect feeders include Ophraella artemisiae (Leaf Beetle sp.), Macrosiphoniella ludovicianae (Aphid sp.), and the larvae of Phaneta argenticostana (Tortricid Moth sp.); the moth larvae feed on the seedheads. Mammalian herbivores don't consume this plant because the aromatic foliage has a bitter taste. The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, where a small colony of plants was located in a restored prairie. The plants were not in bloom.
Comments: This variety of White Sage has striking foliage. The typical variety, Artemisia ludoviciana ludoviciana, has greener foliage with fewer white hairs. The leaves of this latter variety are supposed to be broader and more likely to have lobes or serrated margins toward the leaf tips. However, the hairiness and shape of the leaves can be rather variable for this species, regardless of the variety. Other Artemisia spp. have foliage that is more green and pinnately lobed. A few species, such as the introduced Artemisia vulgaris (Mugwort), have silvery hairs on the lower surface of the leaves, but their upper surface is predominantly green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
A mushroom is a fleshy, spore-bearing fungus. The term is applied to stemmed varieties like the commonly cultivated white button mushroom found in grocery stores. Other types of mushrooms grow without stems or even in a wooden, leathery pattern on trees and logs. Since some mushrooms can make you violently ill when ingested, or prove fatal, those interested in using them in cooking are advised to be able to make proper field identification. When in doubt, throw it out! Learn to identify edible mushrooms.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月05日
Enoki mushrooms, Flammulina velutipes, sprout white bodies with thin stems and traditional mushroom caps. Like other mushrooms species, including shiitakes and oysters, enokis are sometimes used medicinally, to treat liver infections and boost immune system responses. Some even believe that these tiny mushrooms can help reduce tumors. Growing these enokis at home requires careful application of warmth, cold and humidity at different times during the growth cycle.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月28日
Enoki mushrooms, Flammulina velutipes, sprout white bodies with thin stems and traditional mushroom caps. Like other mushrooms species, including shiitakes and oysters, enokis are sometimes used medicinally, to treat liver infections and boost immune system responses. Some even believe that these tiny mushrooms can help reduce tumors. Growing these enokis at home requires careful application of warmth, cold and humidity at different times during the growth cycle.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月27日
Enoki mushrooms, Flammulina velutipes, sprout white bodies with thin stems and traditional mushroom caps. Like other mushrooms species, including shiitakes and oysters, enokis are sometimes used medicinally, to treat liver infections and boost immune system responses. Some even believe that these tiny mushrooms can help reduce tumors. Growing these enokis at home requires careful application of warmth, cold and humidity at different times during the growth cycle.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
Step 1
Clean and sterilize clear plastic bottles or cylinders, each measuring about 8 inches tall. Wash the bottles with antibacterial soap and rinse thoroughly with warm water to ensure that no residual soap remains.
Step 2
Mix aged hardwood sawdust or professional mushroom growth medium with enoki spawn. You can find the spawn, as well as growing mediums, at garden centers, nurseries or mushroom-specialty retailers. The spawn must be thoroughly mixed into the medium to encourage growth.
Step 3
Fill the plastic bottles with the inculcated growing medium. Store the bottles in an area with temperatures ranging between 72 and 77 degrees F and a relative humidity above 90 percent. Light exposure does not matter; the humidity and high temperature will encourage the spawn to grow.
Step 4
Check the bottles after two weeks of growth. You should see thin strands of mycelium starting to spread throughout the bottle; this is essentially the mushroom roots. Keep the enoki spawn in the warm, humid environment until the mycelium has completely covered the growing medium; this can take anywhere from two weeks to a month.
Step 5
Transport the bottles to a cool area, with temperatures ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. Humidity can drop as low as is necessary in this cooler place. Again, sun exposure does not matter. The sudden change in atmosphere will cause the mycelium to produce the characteristic mushroom bodies; these can be harvested within 60 days of initial production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
When eating berries found in the wild, it's important to identify them. The fruit of some plants may be edible, but the leaves and stems poisonous. Grapes are easy to spot, and no part of the plant is poisonous to humans.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
A favorite garden plant across the country, tomatoes (Solanum lycoperisum) make desirable food to more than you and your family. It's understandable because of the delicious fruit they bear, but the leaves and stems have a distinct odor and clammy feel that some people find unpleasant to smell or touch. However, many animals consume the foliage. You can tell which creature might be visiting your tomatoes by the signs animals leave, such as chew marks, droppings and footprints.
Small Rodents
Since they're nocturnal, small rodents such as mice and voles, or meadow mice, are seldom caught in the act of eating your tomatoes. Look for characteristic chew marks rodents make on fruit with the pair of large upper front teeth called incisors. Mice leave small, oblong droppings. Voles create runways in grasses that give them away. Pocket gophers eat tomato roots, causing plants to wilt and die; they construct underground burrow systems marked by mounded entrance holes.
Combating Small Rodents
You can lessen the damage to your tomato patch by mice and voles by keeping the surrounding area less attractive for them to live in. Remove brush piles, heavy vegetation, thick grasses and weeds. Since mice can climb, a simple fence won't keep them out. Protect plants by enclosing them in a wire mesh cage. Extend the cage 6 inches below ground.
Where gophers are a problem, bury galvanized 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth 2 feet deep underground on all sides of the garden bed. Extend the wire 12 inches above ground.
Chipmunks and Squirrels
These rodents are active during the day, so you can visually identify the tomato-eaters. They usually eat fruit rather than leaves. Chipmunks have chestnut coats with black and white stripes along their backs and an eyestripe. Tree squirrels descend from their tree homes to eat many kinds of vegetables, including tomatoes. Ground squirrels inhabit burrows in the ground, in rocky places or under walls, depending on the kind of squirrel. Some, such as rock squirrels, can be larger than a tree squirrel.
Chipmunk and Squirrel Damage Control
Squirrels are among the wiliest unwelcome guests in gardens, able to overcome and climb around, under and over all sorts of barriers and preventative measures. Keep squirrels and chipmunks from tomatoes by enclosing each plant with a hardware cloth cage that extends 6 inches below ground and has an attached wire lid.
Larger Rodents
Larger rodents such as rats and woodchucks also make inroads into tomatoes. Rats leave larger versions of mouse droppings and larger incisor chew marks. They also work at night and are hard to catch in the act. Roof rats live in warmer areas of the country and often invade attics and sheds. Reduce their numbers by removing brush piles and excluding them from buildings. Keep woodchucks out by fencing tomatoes with a chicken wire fence 3 feet tall with an additional 6 inches buried in the ground. Keep fence posts to 2 feet tall so the top part of the chicken wire won't support the woodchuck's weight if it tries to climb over the fence.
Excluding Rabbits
Rabbits are nocturnal, so look for their rounded droppings and incisor chew marks. Rabbits will eat fruit and plants. Rabbits can leap with their large hind legs, but they can't jump very high. Exclude rabbits from tomatoes with a fence of 1/2-inch poultry netting around the plants. Use a 4-foot-high netting and bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches beneath the soil to prevent rabbits from digging under it.
Larger Animals
Raccoons and deer may also invade your tomatoes. Raccoons are smart, powerful, animals, and they can work around, over or under most traditional fencing or barriers. They eat fruit rather than stems or leaves. Look for their distinctive tracks, with almost hand-like front paw prints. Electric fencing is a good option to keep raccoons away from tomatoes. Use a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches above the ground and 8 inches out from the base of an ordinary wire fence.
Deer eat tomato fruits and plants, leaving behind usually oblong, pellet-like droppings and deer tracks. For deer, exclusion is more difficult; they can jump 6-feet-tall fences. Protect individual plants or garden areas with poultry wire or woven wire fencing. In areas where the deer population is high, consider a deer fence around your entire garden.
Small Rodents
Since they're nocturnal, small rodents such as mice and voles, or meadow mice, are seldom caught in the act of eating your tomatoes. Look for characteristic chew marks rodents make on fruit with the pair of large upper front teeth called incisors. Mice leave small, oblong droppings. Voles create runways in grasses that give them away. Pocket gophers eat tomato roots, causing plants to wilt and die; they construct underground burrow systems marked by mounded entrance holes.
Combating Small Rodents
You can lessen the damage to your tomato patch by mice and voles by keeping the surrounding area less attractive for them to live in. Remove brush piles, heavy vegetation, thick grasses and weeds. Since mice can climb, a simple fence won't keep them out. Protect plants by enclosing them in a wire mesh cage. Extend the cage 6 inches below ground.
Where gophers are a problem, bury galvanized 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth 2 feet deep underground on all sides of the garden bed. Extend the wire 12 inches above ground.
Chipmunks and Squirrels
These rodents are active during the day, so you can visually identify the tomato-eaters. They usually eat fruit rather than leaves. Chipmunks have chestnut coats with black and white stripes along their backs and an eyestripe. Tree squirrels descend from their tree homes to eat many kinds of vegetables, including tomatoes. Ground squirrels inhabit burrows in the ground, in rocky places or under walls, depending on the kind of squirrel. Some, such as rock squirrels, can be larger than a tree squirrel.
Chipmunk and Squirrel Damage Control
Squirrels are among the wiliest unwelcome guests in gardens, able to overcome and climb around, under and over all sorts of barriers and preventative measures. Keep squirrels and chipmunks from tomatoes by enclosing each plant with a hardware cloth cage that extends 6 inches below ground and has an attached wire lid.
Larger Rodents
Larger rodents such as rats and woodchucks also make inroads into tomatoes. Rats leave larger versions of mouse droppings and larger incisor chew marks. They also work at night and are hard to catch in the act. Roof rats live in warmer areas of the country and often invade attics and sheds. Reduce their numbers by removing brush piles and excluding them from buildings. Keep woodchucks out by fencing tomatoes with a chicken wire fence 3 feet tall with an additional 6 inches buried in the ground. Keep fence posts to 2 feet tall so the top part of the chicken wire won't support the woodchuck's weight if it tries to climb over the fence.
Excluding Rabbits
Rabbits are nocturnal, so look for their rounded droppings and incisor chew marks. Rabbits will eat fruit and plants. Rabbits can leap with their large hind legs, but they can't jump very high. Exclude rabbits from tomatoes with a fence of 1/2-inch poultry netting around the plants. Use a 4-foot-high netting and bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches beneath the soil to prevent rabbits from digging under it.
Larger Animals
Raccoons and deer may also invade your tomatoes. Raccoons are smart, powerful, animals, and they can work around, over or under most traditional fencing or barriers. They eat fruit rather than stems or leaves. Look for their distinctive tracks, with almost hand-like front paw prints. Electric fencing is a good option to keep raccoons away from tomatoes. Use a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches above the ground and 8 inches out from the base of an ordinary wire fence.
Deer eat tomato fruits and plants, leaving behind usually oblong, pellet-like droppings and deer tracks. For deer, exclusion is more difficult; they can jump 6-feet-tall fences. Protect individual plants or garden areas with poultry wire or woven wire fencing. In areas where the deer population is high, consider a deer fence around your entire garden.
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