文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Bleeding heart has attractive mounded foliage with arching stems of delicate, heart-shaped flowers in spring. It thrives in moist woodland gardens along with ferns and other shade-lovers.
About bleeding hearts
Bleeding heart grows best in cool, moist conditions. Flower colors include yellow, pink, red, and white. It blooms in spring and may rebloom sporadically throughout the summer in cool areas. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet, depending on variety.
Choosing a site to grow bleeding hearts
Select a site with light to medium shade and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter.
Special features of bleeding hearts
Deer resistant
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line.
About bleeding hearts
Bleeding heart grows best in cool, moist conditions. Flower colors include yellow, pink, red, and white. It blooms in spring and may rebloom sporadically throughout the summer in cool areas. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet, depending on variety.
Choosing a site to grow bleeding hearts
Select a site with light to medium shade and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter.
Special features of bleeding hearts
Deer resistant
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年10月08日
This guy has been having a tough time in the bathroom too, so has been moved to a spot thats not so humid to allow it to dry out. Second picture is after i removed dying stems and leaves
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Herbs are plants, even those we might consider weeds, that have useful purposes. They may be used for flavorings, fragrances, pesticides, medicines or dyes. Succulent plants are generally recognized has having fleshy parts, such as leaves, stems or trunks; this fleshiness is a result of water storage in the plant’s tissues. Although there aren’t many plants that are both succulent and herbal, a few genera possess both qualities.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Herbs are plants, even those we might consider weeds, that have useful purposes. They may be used for flavorings, fragrances, pesticides, medicines or dyes. Succulent plants are generally recognized has having fleshy parts, such as leaves, stems or trunks; this fleshiness is a result of water storage in the plant’s tissues. Although there aren’t many plants that are both succulent and herbal, a few genera possess both qualities.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
What comes to mind when one first thinks about “the Lily of the Valley” is a delicate flower that is symbolic of Easter and Weddings. It grows 15 to 30 cm tall, with only one or two leafs, and flowering stems, which have two leaves and 5 to 15 bell-shaped white flowers. The Lily of the Valley grows in the spring of the year and comes in three varieties from China and Japan, Eurasia, and the USA. Sadly, it is a poisonous woodland flowering plant that grows predominately in cooler temperatures in the Northern Hemisphere of Asia and Europe.
The Lily of the Valley is also known as Our Lady’s Tears or Mary’s Tears from Christian legends, which came about from Mary’s weeping when Jesus was being crucified. Another legend of the flower comes from the tears that Eve shed when she was expelled from the Garden of Eden with Adam. Lastly, the last legend was that of Saint Leonard of Noblac during his battles with a dragon.
It should be of no surprise that “the Lily of the Valley” is referred to in the Bible because it is very much a part of Christ and is reflected upon as a rose. As a symbol of humility “the Lily of the Valley” is a sign of Christ’s second coming, along with being a power for men to envision a better world. Although, “the Lily of the Valley” and “the Easter Lily” are often confused, they are both white and stand for humility and purity within the Christian religion. The Lily of the Valley is mentioned in the Bible 15 times and 8 of those times are in the book of the Song of Solomon in the Old Testament.
According to the Bible, the Lily grows in valleys, fields, gardens, and even among thorns. It is a sweet, fragrant flower that relates to the sweetness of Jesus’ ministry especially when He gave Himself for our transgressions. The Lily is also connected to motherhood, poetry, historical traditions and mythology. Then when one thinks about the white petals of the flower, they are reminded of Mary’s virgin body and her glowing soul.
In German mythology the flower is linked to the virgin goddess of spring Ostara and symbolizes life to Pagans. Additionally, the blooming of the lily refers to the feast of Ostara. Once again, the sweet smell and whiteness of the flower remind one of humility and purity of its patron goddess.
The Lily of the Valley is also known as May Lily, May Bells, Lily Constancy, Ladder-to-Heaven, Male Lily, and Muguet. Its scientific name Majalis or Maialis means “belonging to May” and is under the dominion of Mercury astrologically. Lastly, the Lily of the Valley signifies the return of happiness and perhaps this is something that should be considered a lot more in today’s society as it is more and more difficult to find peace.
The Lily of the Valley is also known as Our Lady’s Tears or Mary’s Tears from Christian legends, which came about from Mary’s weeping when Jesus was being crucified. Another legend of the flower comes from the tears that Eve shed when she was expelled from the Garden of Eden with Adam. Lastly, the last legend was that of Saint Leonard of Noblac during his battles with a dragon.
It should be of no surprise that “the Lily of the Valley” is referred to in the Bible because it is very much a part of Christ and is reflected upon as a rose. As a symbol of humility “the Lily of the Valley” is a sign of Christ’s second coming, along with being a power for men to envision a better world. Although, “the Lily of the Valley” and “the Easter Lily” are often confused, they are both white and stand for humility and purity within the Christian religion. The Lily of the Valley is mentioned in the Bible 15 times and 8 of those times are in the book of the Song of Solomon in the Old Testament.
According to the Bible, the Lily grows in valleys, fields, gardens, and even among thorns. It is a sweet, fragrant flower that relates to the sweetness of Jesus’ ministry especially when He gave Himself for our transgressions. The Lily is also connected to motherhood, poetry, historical traditions and mythology. Then when one thinks about the white petals of the flower, they are reminded of Mary’s virgin body and her glowing soul.
In German mythology the flower is linked to the virgin goddess of spring Ostara and symbolizes life to Pagans. Additionally, the blooming of the lily refers to the feast of Ostara. Once again, the sweet smell and whiteness of the flower remind one of humility and purity of its patron goddess.
The Lily of the Valley is also known as May Lily, May Bells, Lily Constancy, Ladder-to-Heaven, Male Lily, and Muguet. Its scientific name Majalis or Maialis means “belonging to May” and is under the dominion of Mercury astrologically. Lastly, the Lily of the Valley signifies the return of happiness and perhaps this is something that should be considered a lot more in today’s society as it is more and more difficult to find peace.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Calliandra, commonly known as Powder Puff plants, are fairly common landscape plants in the tropics and subtropics. There, they are grown as small trees with woody stems and especially prized for their profuse displays of red “powder puff” flowers that blanket the tree every year. The puffs are actually the stamens of the flowers, and they really are beautiful. Indoors, these plants are kept smaller by necessity and, under the right conditions, can be coaxed into winter blooms or year-round blooms. Even though they are somewhat drought tolerant, they are not especially easy to bring to bloom inside. They are sensitive to cold, dry air, which perfectly describes the conditions in many homes. Even if the plant doesn’t bloom, however, its fern-like, segmented leaves are drooping and beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Delicate, pendant flowers of Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) line up along gracefully arching stems in mid-spring. The white or pink blooms are small and waxy, with a cherished fragrance that is irresistible; if you pull up gently on the stems, you will have lovely, long flower spikes to enjoy in a vase, preferably at nose level.
Easily grown, these small plants will take a couple of years to establish and may not flower the first year. But their creeping rhizomes will soon spread rapidly, making an ideal ground cover even under large trees. These hardy perennials thrive in zones 3 through 7, but labor in the South. Plants will keep spreading, so you may want to locate them in a contained area.
Growing Conditions
Light: Plant in a mostly shaded to partially shaded area (morning sun only).
Water: The plants like moist soil . Water plants in dry weather.
Soil: Grow it in a well-drained, loamy soil enriched with humus.
Fertilizer: Like any plant, they will grow better if fertilized. Do so in early spring, and again after the blooms have died off.
Pruning
Leaves may become tattered and unattractive toward the end of the growing season; simply cut back to ground level. If left intact, the deciduous leaves turn a lovely golden hue in the fall, accompanied by colorful (but inedible) orange berries.
Propagation
Lily of the Valley can be propagated from seed or their rhizomes. Seeds can take months to germinate. So, most people propagate them using the rhizomes. Dig up rhizomes of established plants in the Fall, and separate into clumps for re-planting.
Pests and Diseases
These plants are generally quite healthy and vigorous. Fungal leaf spotting may occur but is usually minor. Remove any affected foliage and destroy. Occasionally weevils will feed on the leaves, making small notches along the edges, but damage is usually insignificant.
Grower’s Tips
Despite its temperamental reputation, Lily of the Valley is easy to grow if you buy it ready potted in spring. Dried crowns take ages to get going and do not always survive and it may also prove difficult to establish chunks supplied by friends. In both cases, pot up the crowns separately in loam-based compost, water well and allow them to establish for a year before planting out. (You can do the same in midwinter, forcing the crowns for an early show indoors.) At planting time, work in some humus, good garden compost or, even better, leafmould. Spread out any underground stems and cover with just a couple of inches of the planting mixture. Mulch well with leafmould. If you find that flowering is poor, an occasional dose of high-potash organic liquid feed may help.
Easily grown, these small plants will take a couple of years to establish and may not flower the first year. But their creeping rhizomes will soon spread rapidly, making an ideal ground cover even under large trees. These hardy perennials thrive in zones 3 through 7, but labor in the South. Plants will keep spreading, so you may want to locate them in a contained area.
Growing Conditions
Light: Plant in a mostly shaded to partially shaded area (morning sun only).
Water: The plants like moist soil . Water plants in dry weather.
Soil: Grow it in a well-drained, loamy soil enriched with humus.
Fertilizer: Like any plant, they will grow better if fertilized. Do so in early spring, and again after the blooms have died off.
Pruning
Leaves may become tattered and unattractive toward the end of the growing season; simply cut back to ground level. If left intact, the deciduous leaves turn a lovely golden hue in the fall, accompanied by colorful (but inedible) orange berries.
Propagation
Lily of the Valley can be propagated from seed or their rhizomes. Seeds can take months to germinate. So, most people propagate them using the rhizomes. Dig up rhizomes of established plants in the Fall, and separate into clumps for re-planting.
Pests and Diseases
These plants are generally quite healthy and vigorous. Fungal leaf spotting may occur but is usually minor. Remove any affected foliage and destroy. Occasionally weevils will feed on the leaves, making small notches along the edges, but damage is usually insignificant.
Grower’s Tips
Despite its temperamental reputation, Lily of the Valley is easy to grow if you buy it ready potted in spring. Dried crowns take ages to get going and do not always survive and it may also prove difficult to establish chunks supplied by friends. In both cases, pot up the crowns separately in loam-based compost, water well and allow them to establish for a year before planting out. (You can do the same in midwinter, forcing the crowns for an early show indoors.) At planting time, work in some humus, good garden compost or, even better, leafmould. Spread out any underground stems and cover with just a couple of inches of the planting mixture. Mulch well with leafmould. If you find that flowering is poor, an occasional dose of high-potash organic liquid feed may help.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Corn Poppy, (Papaver rhoeas), also known as Flanders Poppy, Field Poppy or Shirley Poppy, is hardy annual with vividly colored, papery red, pink or white blooms that rise above lacy foliage. The fuzzy stems reach heights of 2 feet (60 cm) and more at maturity.
Easily grown by seed, Corn Poppies are often planted by state highway departments for spectacular displays of color along roadsides across the nation. Corn Poppies are beautiful as cut flowers and the dried seed pops add interest to dry floral arrangements.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Plant Corn Poppy seeds directly on top of cultivated soil. In mild climates, plant the seeds in late fall or early spring when soil temperatures are between 60 and 70 ºF (15 and 21 ºC). Corn Poppies thrive in full sunlight and rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is poor, incorporate 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost or manure prior to planting.
Water Corn Poppies when the top of the soil feels dry. Saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow waterings promote a shallow root system. For best results, water by hand with a hose or use a drip system to keep the foliage as dry as possible. If you use a sprinkler, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry before evening. Soggy soil and damp foliage place the plant at risk of rot and fungal diseases.
Spread 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of mulch around the plants in the spring. An organic mulch such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings keeps the roots cool, conserves moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
Apply a balanced liquid or granular fertilizer if newly emerging foliage has a yellowish appearance. Use the fertilizer in accordance with label recommendations. As a general rule, Poppies require no supplemental fertilization if granular fertilizer or compost are incorporated into the soil at planting time.
Pinch off flowers as soon as they begin to fade. This process, called deadheading, prevents the plants from setting seed too early. Remove the bloom, along with the stem, down to the next leaf.
Remove all seedpods at the end of the season if you don’t want the Poppy to self-seed. If you want Poppies next spring, allow a few pods to remain on the plants.
Easily grown by seed, Corn Poppies are often planted by state highway departments for spectacular displays of color along roadsides across the nation. Corn Poppies are beautiful as cut flowers and the dried seed pops add interest to dry floral arrangements.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Plant Corn Poppy seeds directly on top of cultivated soil. In mild climates, plant the seeds in late fall or early spring when soil temperatures are between 60 and 70 ºF (15 and 21 ºC). Corn Poppies thrive in full sunlight and rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is poor, incorporate 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost or manure prior to planting.
Water Corn Poppies when the top of the soil feels dry. Saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow waterings promote a shallow root system. For best results, water by hand with a hose or use a drip system to keep the foliage as dry as possible. If you use a sprinkler, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry before evening. Soggy soil and damp foliage place the plant at risk of rot and fungal diseases.
Spread 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of mulch around the plants in the spring. An organic mulch such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings keeps the roots cool, conserves moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
Apply a balanced liquid or granular fertilizer if newly emerging foliage has a yellowish appearance. Use the fertilizer in accordance with label recommendations. As a general rule, Poppies require no supplemental fertilization if granular fertilizer or compost are incorporated into the soil at planting time.
Pinch off flowers as soon as they begin to fade. This process, called deadheading, prevents the plants from setting seed too early. Remove the bloom, along with the stem, down to the next leaf.
Remove all seedpods at the end of the season if you don’t want the Poppy to self-seed. If you want Poppies next spring, allow a few pods to remain on the plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum), also known as Gravel Root, is a large clumping perennial that injects architectural interest into the late summer landscape. This robust wildflower has multiples of sturdy stems with whorls of attractive foliage. In mid-summer, plants are topped with a frothy crown of rounded rosy pink flower clusters. The vanilla scented blooms are frequented by butterflies.
It is native to northwest, eastern and central North America. Many people think of Sweet Joe Pye Weed as a weed found in the ditches along the side of the road. But is a stunning perennial in the back of a border or cottage garden, and particularly in meadows or native plant gardens. It just needs space to grow as the stand can reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m) and widths of up to 5 feet (1.5 m). It also works great in rain gardens, or even at the edge of ponds or streams.
In the Language of Flowers, Sweet Joe Pye Weed is said to mean Delay. It is sometimes cultivated and has escaped from cultivation in parts of New Zealand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Medicinal Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks.
The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention. The common name Gravel Root comes from the plant being used as a diuretic used to treat urinary infections and stones. The tops of the plant were steeped and then inhaled to treat colds. Fresh leaves were made into a poultice to treat burns.
The flower tops were even used as a good luck charm. Some Native American tribes still consider Joe Pye Weed to be an aphrodisiac.
It is native to northwest, eastern and central North America. Many people think of Sweet Joe Pye Weed as a weed found in the ditches along the side of the road. But is a stunning perennial in the back of a border or cottage garden, and particularly in meadows or native plant gardens. It just needs space to grow as the stand can reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m) and widths of up to 5 feet (1.5 m). It also works great in rain gardens, or even at the edge of ponds or streams.
In the Language of Flowers, Sweet Joe Pye Weed is said to mean Delay. It is sometimes cultivated and has escaped from cultivation in parts of New Zealand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Medicinal Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks.
The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention. The common name Gravel Root comes from the plant being used as a diuretic used to treat urinary infections and stones. The tops of the plant were steeped and then inhaled to treat colds. Fresh leaves were made into a poultice to treat burns.
The flower tops were even used as a good luck charm. Some Native American tribes still consider Joe Pye Weed to be an aphrodisiac.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever found a flower stem that looks wide and flattened, splayed or fused, you’ve probably discovered an odd disorder called fasciation. Some fasciation in plants result in huge, grotesque stems and flowers, while others are quite subtle. Discovering fasciations in your garden or in the wild is intriguing, and one of the fascinations of observing nature. Let’s find out more about the fasciation deformation of flowers.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents store water in their thick, fleshy leaves. The appearance of a succulent depends on the variety, with some producing branching stems covered with interesting foliage and others more prized for their colorful flowers. Most succulents thrive in drier conditions, although nearly all make suitable houseplants if your outdoor climate is too wet. While most types don’t require pruning, some of the branching types can benefit from a light trim to maintain their size and shape so they can thrive in a small garden bed or container.
Instruction
Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node.
Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.
Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest.
Tip
Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.
The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.
Warning
Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
Instruction
Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node.
Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.
Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest.
Tip
Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.
The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.
Warning
Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are nick named “Fat Plants” because they store water in their leaves, roots, or stems. The stored water makes these plants appear fleshy and swollen; their leaves plump and firm with the stored water.
The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.
Propagation Using Cuttings
Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants.
Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.
The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.
Propagation by Division
The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.
The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.
Propagation with Offsets
The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.
These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.
Propagation Using Cuttings
Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants.
Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.
The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.
Propagation by Division
The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.
The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.
Propagation with Offsets
The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.
These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Some succulents make your propagation work easier by forming new plants mostly on their own. Some leaf succulents develop roots on their stems while still attached to the mother plant, and sometimes leaves fall off succulents and root by themselves. Still others develop new rooted plantlets at their bases. For such plants, minimal effort is needed on the part of the gardener.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti and succulents are the perfect choice if you’re looking for indoor plants that almost look after themselves.
Most cacti and succulents can be easily propagated from stem or leaf cuttings, as explained below. For those cacti whose stems are formed of segments (e.g. Prickly Pears, Christmas Cacti), always remove whole segments as cuttings – don’t split segments in half.
Succulents that form clumps, such as Aloes, Haworthias and Agaves, should be divided by simply taking the plant out of its pot and splitting the rootball. Cacti that form numerous heads, such as many Mammillaria and Echinopsis can be divided, or cut off individual heads and use them as cuttings.
How to Do It
1. Choose a healthy piece of stem at least 4 inches (10 cm) long and cut it off cleanly with snips. Use tongs when handling spiny cacti. For plants without stems, remove whole leaves by hand (don’t cut them off). Sit cuttings on a window sill and leave them until the cut surfaces have healed over.
2. Fill a 2.7 or 3.5 inches (7 or 9 cm) pot with cactus potting soil, then insert the base of each cutting to a depth of about 0.8 inch (2 cm), or deep enough that it stands upwards.
3. Water liberally, then place the pot on a warm windowsill, preferably not in direct sunlight. Do not place cactus or succulent cuttings in a propagator or cover them with a plastic bag.
4. Keep an eye on the cutting and water when the compost feels dry. Most cactus and succulent cuttings will root within a month, but it may take longer for new growth to appear.
Most cacti and succulents can be easily propagated from stem or leaf cuttings, as explained below. For those cacti whose stems are formed of segments (e.g. Prickly Pears, Christmas Cacti), always remove whole segments as cuttings – don’t split segments in half.
Succulents that form clumps, such as Aloes, Haworthias and Agaves, should be divided by simply taking the plant out of its pot and splitting the rootball. Cacti that form numerous heads, such as many Mammillaria and Echinopsis can be divided, or cut off individual heads and use them as cuttings.
How to Do It
1. Choose a healthy piece of stem at least 4 inches (10 cm) long and cut it off cleanly with snips. Use tongs when handling spiny cacti. For plants without stems, remove whole leaves by hand (don’t cut them off). Sit cuttings on a window sill and leave them until the cut surfaces have healed over.
2. Fill a 2.7 or 3.5 inches (7 or 9 cm) pot with cactus potting soil, then insert the base of each cutting to a depth of about 0.8 inch (2 cm), or deep enough that it stands upwards.
3. Water liberally, then place the pot on a warm windowsill, preferably not in direct sunlight. Do not place cactus or succulent cuttings in a propagator or cover them with a plastic bag.
4. Keep an eye on the cutting and water when the compost feels dry. Most cactus and succulent cuttings will root within a month, but it may take longer for new growth to appear.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
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