文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Grasshoppers are voracious feeders, consuming approximately one-half of their body weight per day. Both adults and nymphs cause damage by chewing on the leaves and stems of plants, and if infestations are severe, may defoliate entire fields. It is estimated that grasshoppers consume up to 25 percent of the available forage in the western United States annually.
Adults (1-2 inch long) are brown to reddish yellow or green in color with prominent jaws, fully developed wings and short antennae. They have enlarged hind legs and can jump great distances. Immature stages — nymphs — are similar in appearance to adults, but are smaller and have wing buds instead of wings.
Note: Ten adults per square yard are economically damaging to rangeland, according to the USDA. Smaller numbers can damage cropland or gardens, depending on crop type and age. A classic study showed that 6-7 adults per square yard on 10 acres of pasture ate as much as a cow.
Life Cycle
The injurious species of grasshoppers are all alike in their cycle of development. Eggs are deposited in late summer in elongated masses or pods inserted in the soil. These pass through the winter, and on hatching in the spring, the young seek food in the immediate area. As they increase in size and food becomes scarce, migration to other food sources takes place. After molting 5 or 6 times, during a period of 40-60 days, the adults appear and continue feeding until cold weather kills them. One generation per year in most areas.
Control
Roto-till or cultivate crops in the spring to destroy overwintering eggs.
Harvest-Guard row covers can be used to cover and protect small garden areas.
For long-term grasshopper protection, apply organic Semaspore Bait (Nosema locustae) to hatching beds – field margins and other undisturbed grassy areas – when grasshoppers are young. Heavy infestations may require multiple applications.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Spread EcoBran Bait or apply botanical insecticides, such as organic pyrethrins, to areas where you are experiencing heavy grasshopper damage and require a quick-kill.
Read our pamphlet on How to Control Grasshoppers with Modern Baits here.
Tip: Mow a “clean” strip between grassy fields and your garden area to help slow grasshopper migration. Pests are reluctant to enter the strip because it has no food, and they are very exposed to predators. A wider strip is better, especially if the adjacent area is large.
Adults (1-2 inch long) are brown to reddish yellow or green in color with prominent jaws, fully developed wings and short antennae. They have enlarged hind legs and can jump great distances. Immature stages — nymphs — are similar in appearance to adults, but are smaller and have wing buds instead of wings.
Note: Ten adults per square yard are economically damaging to rangeland, according to the USDA. Smaller numbers can damage cropland or gardens, depending on crop type and age. A classic study showed that 6-7 adults per square yard on 10 acres of pasture ate as much as a cow.
Life Cycle
The injurious species of grasshoppers are all alike in their cycle of development. Eggs are deposited in late summer in elongated masses or pods inserted in the soil. These pass through the winter, and on hatching in the spring, the young seek food in the immediate area. As they increase in size and food becomes scarce, migration to other food sources takes place. After molting 5 or 6 times, during a period of 40-60 days, the adults appear and continue feeding until cold weather kills them. One generation per year in most areas.
Control
Roto-till or cultivate crops in the spring to destroy overwintering eggs.
Harvest-Guard row covers can be used to cover and protect small garden areas.
For long-term grasshopper protection, apply organic Semaspore Bait (Nosema locustae) to hatching beds – field margins and other undisturbed grassy areas – when grasshoppers are young. Heavy infestations may require multiple applications.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Spread EcoBran Bait or apply botanical insecticides, such as organic pyrethrins, to areas where you are experiencing heavy grasshopper damage and require a quick-kill.
Read our pamphlet on How to Control Grasshoppers with Modern Baits here.
Tip: Mow a “clean” strip between grassy fields and your garden area to help slow grasshopper migration. Pests are reluctant to enter the strip because it has no food, and they are very exposed to predators. A wider strip is better, especially if the adjacent area is large.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of cutworms from the night-flying moth family Noctuidae are found in home gardens across the United States. The larvae commonly feed on plant stems at or below ground, eventually cutting them down. Cutworms attack a wide variety of plants including beets, cabbage, broccoli, kale and cauliflower.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Yellowing leaves on a phalaenopsis are not necessarily a cause for alarm. It's normal and natural for older leaves to yellow and gradually drop off. Older phalaenopsis often have somewhat elongated stems where old leaves have dropped away. On healthy plants, new roots will continuously emerge from the stem, eventually forming a mass of roots.
However, if the leaves are yellowing from the top of the plant, there is a problem.
If the leaves are still plump and firm, the plant is most likely receiving too much light and it's washing out the color. If the leaves are wrinkled and listless, the plant is most likely dehydrated.
Yellow Leaves
If the leaves on your Phalaenopsis orchid are yellow, it could be an indication that something is wrong. There are a number of factors that can cause the leaves of an orchid to become discolored, including direct sunlight, low temperatures, and root rot.
Once any yellowing is discovered, it is time to figure out if there is a problem with the plant. If you discover the yellowing leaf is located on the bottom of the plant, don’t worry. This is a natural process of the plant to discard the mature leaf in order to produce a new leaf. However, if multiple leaves are turning yellow or top leaves are yellow, your plant may be sick.
3 Reasons Why Your Phalaenopsis Leaves Are Yellow
The first step is to isolate the plant away from any other orchids that you may have to ensure that they do not become ill as well.
Here are 3 steps to take to try to determine the problem:
Direct sun may be the culprit. The leaves of a Phalaenopsis orchid can burn and turn yellow if they are exposed to direct sunlight. Try putting your orchid in a place that receives sufficient indirect sunlight.
Is the temperature right? Overly low temperatures can also cause orchid leaves to turn yellow. Make sure the temperatures around your orchid are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 and 70 degrees at night.
Check the roots. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which can in turn cause its leaves to turn yellow. You should only water the plant when the top one inch of the potting medium is dry and the roots are white, and make sure there are enough holes in the pot to allow proper drainage. If your orchid is suffering from root rot but you see your plant still has some healthy green roots, trim the rotted roots and repot the plant in new media. Mist the leaves the first week in place of watering.
A Tip to Prevent Overwatering
Overwatering is one of the most common problems and one of the most serious Here's a hint to make sure that in your quest to keep your orchid happy, healthy and beautiful that you don't overwater.
To avoid overwatering, we recommend watering your Phalaenopsis orchid with three ice cubes once a week so that the roots will soak up water slowly.
However, if the leaves are yellowing from the top of the plant, there is a problem.
If the leaves are still plump and firm, the plant is most likely receiving too much light and it's washing out the color. If the leaves are wrinkled and listless, the plant is most likely dehydrated.
Yellow Leaves
If the leaves on your Phalaenopsis orchid are yellow, it could be an indication that something is wrong. There are a number of factors that can cause the leaves of an orchid to become discolored, including direct sunlight, low temperatures, and root rot.
Once any yellowing is discovered, it is time to figure out if there is a problem with the plant. If you discover the yellowing leaf is located on the bottom of the plant, don’t worry. This is a natural process of the plant to discard the mature leaf in order to produce a new leaf. However, if multiple leaves are turning yellow or top leaves are yellow, your plant may be sick.
3 Reasons Why Your Phalaenopsis Leaves Are Yellow
The first step is to isolate the plant away from any other orchids that you may have to ensure that they do not become ill as well.
Here are 3 steps to take to try to determine the problem:
Direct sun may be the culprit. The leaves of a Phalaenopsis orchid can burn and turn yellow if they are exposed to direct sunlight. Try putting your orchid in a place that receives sufficient indirect sunlight.
Is the temperature right? Overly low temperatures can also cause orchid leaves to turn yellow. Make sure the temperatures around your orchid are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 and 70 degrees at night.
Check the roots. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which can in turn cause its leaves to turn yellow. You should only water the plant when the top one inch of the potting medium is dry and the roots are white, and make sure there are enough holes in the pot to allow proper drainage. If your orchid is suffering from root rot but you see your plant still has some healthy green roots, trim the rotted roots and repot the plant in new media. Mist the leaves the first week in place of watering.
A Tip to Prevent Overwatering
Overwatering is one of the most common problems and one of the most serious Here's a hint to make sure that in your quest to keep your orchid happy, healthy and beautiful that you don't overwater.
To avoid overwatering, we recommend watering your Phalaenopsis orchid with three ice cubes once a week so that the roots will soak up water slowly.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
What is Powdery Mildew?
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plants problems. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. Although any plant can get powdery mildew, some are very susceptible, crab apples, cucumbers and all types of squash, lilacs, phlox and roses. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants.
The white coating greatly diminishes the appearance of the plant, but it is not fatal unless left uncontrolled. However, as it spreads, it stresses and weakens the plant and makes it hard for photosynthesis to occur. It's wise to treat it as soon as you see symptoms, or maybe even before.
Controlling Powdery Mildew with Baking Soda
Baking soda has long been used as an inexpensive control for powdery mildew on plants. Unfortunately baking soda fungicide is mostly effective as a preventative, offering only minimal benefits after your plants have become infected. If you know which plants are susceptible, spraying them weekly with the baking soda recipes, during humid or damp weather, can greatly reduce the incidence of powdery mildew in your garden.
To control powdery mildew on plants, mix together:
1 tablespoon of baking soda
½ teaspoon of liquid soap
1 gallon of water
Do not store unused mixture.
While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and don’t apply it in full sun. Try on a small area first, to test the plant’s response before spraying the entire plant.
Some recipes also recommend applying 1 tablespoon of ultralight horticultural oil to the mixture. The oil coats and smothers the fungi. The soap is added to help the mix spread and cling to the leaf surface. Be sure to apply to lower leaf surfaces as well.
Control versus Cure
Unfortunately, this baking soda mixture works best as a preventative, applied before powdery mildew has a chance to spread on your plant. It is less effective as a cure, once the fungus has taken hold. If you know a plant is affected by powdery mildew year after year, as is the case with many monarda, pholx, and lilacs, they spraying early in the season may prevent any occurrence of powdery mildew that year. It is still worth trying after signs of powdery mildew appear, but it might not get rid of all the fungus.
Another Homemade Powdery Mildew Option
Spraying plants with a milk mixture, after they have been infected with powdery mildew, is showing a lot of promise for actually killing the fungus. Read more about how to use milk to control powdery mildew.
There May be More Uses for This Baking Soda Recipe
Researchers are still studying the effects of using a baking soda mixture on other fungal diseases such as: black spot, rust and anthracnose.
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plants problems. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. Although any plant can get powdery mildew, some are very susceptible, crab apples, cucumbers and all types of squash, lilacs, phlox and roses. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants.
The white coating greatly diminishes the appearance of the plant, but it is not fatal unless left uncontrolled. However, as it spreads, it stresses and weakens the plant and makes it hard for photosynthesis to occur. It's wise to treat it as soon as you see symptoms, or maybe even before.
Controlling Powdery Mildew with Baking Soda
Baking soda has long been used as an inexpensive control for powdery mildew on plants. Unfortunately baking soda fungicide is mostly effective as a preventative, offering only minimal benefits after your plants have become infected. If you know which plants are susceptible, spraying them weekly with the baking soda recipes, during humid or damp weather, can greatly reduce the incidence of powdery mildew in your garden.
To control powdery mildew on plants, mix together:
1 tablespoon of baking soda
½ teaspoon of liquid soap
1 gallon of water
Do not store unused mixture.
While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and don’t apply it in full sun. Try on a small area first, to test the plant’s response before spraying the entire plant.
Some recipes also recommend applying 1 tablespoon of ultralight horticultural oil to the mixture. The oil coats and smothers the fungi. The soap is added to help the mix spread and cling to the leaf surface. Be sure to apply to lower leaf surfaces as well.
Control versus Cure
Unfortunately, this baking soda mixture works best as a preventative, applied before powdery mildew has a chance to spread on your plant. It is less effective as a cure, once the fungus has taken hold. If you know a plant is affected by powdery mildew year after year, as is the case with many monarda, pholx, and lilacs, they spraying early in the season may prevent any occurrence of powdery mildew that year. It is still worth trying after signs of powdery mildew appear, but it might not get rid of all the fungus.
Another Homemade Powdery Mildew Option
Spraying plants with a milk mixture, after they have been infected with powdery mildew, is showing a lot of promise for actually killing the fungus. Read more about how to use milk to control powdery mildew.
There May be More Uses for This Baking Soda Recipe
Researchers are still studying the effects of using a baking soda mixture on other fungal diseases such as: black spot, rust and anthracnose.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that results in a powdery gray or white coating on the leaves and stems of infected plants. Several different species of fungi in the order Erysiphales can cause the disease, though the symptoms are always similar. A powdery mildew infection generally starts out as a few spores on the leaves but quickly spreads. The white powdery surface is a thick coating of the fungi spores.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Symptoms of this fungal disease vary with the crop. Beans develop round, black, sunken spots on the pods and stems; on leaf undersides, veins turn black. When the fungus infects cucumbers and melons, the leaves develop yellow spots that dry up and flake away; spots on watermelon leaves are black. Infected fruits develop sunken areas with dark borders. On tomato plants, ripe fruit develops sunken spots with dark centers.
Anthracnose can also develop in other vegetable crops and in strawberries. Wind and wet weather fosters the spread of infection. Anthracnose overwinters in plant residues in the soil. It is an especially troublesome disease in hot, humid regions.
Prevention and Control
Plant resistant varieties such as Calypso cucumber and Charleston Gray watermelon.
Different species of fungi cause anthracnose in different crops. Thus, if you had anthracnose on your tomatoes last year, there’s no harm in planting beans in that bed this year. It can be helpful to wait two years before replanting tomatoes in that bed, though.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Avoid disturbing plant foliage when it’s wet.
Harvest tomato and pepper fruits promptly and wash and dry them immediately to remove any fungal spores on the fruit surface.
Clean up crop debris in fall.
Anthracnose can also develop in other vegetable crops and in strawberries. Wind and wet weather fosters the spread of infection. Anthracnose overwinters in plant residues in the soil. It is an especially troublesome disease in hot, humid regions.
Prevention and Control
Plant resistant varieties such as Calypso cucumber and Charleston Gray watermelon.
Different species of fungi cause anthracnose in different crops. Thus, if you had anthracnose on your tomatoes last year, there’s no harm in planting beans in that bed this year. It can be helpful to wait two years before replanting tomatoes in that bed, though.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Avoid disturbing plant foliage when it’s wet.
Harvest tomato and pepper fruits promptly and wash and dry them immediately to remove any fungal spores on the fruit surface.
Clean up crop debris in fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Early symptoms of late blight infection include irregular olive or gray water-soaked lesions on the leaves and stems of tomatoes and potatoes. Both crops are vulnerable to this fungal disease at every stage of their growth cycle. A mildew-like white mold may also develop on or near these lesions. The disease spreads rapidly and can kill crops within a week of infection. (Late blight fungus, Phytophthora infestans, was the cause of the potato famine in Ireland in the 1850s.)
Unlike early blight, late blight does not cause the plant’s leaves to drop off; leaves usually remain attached even after they’ve turned brown and dried up. On tomato plants, infected fruits develop large sunken areas. These may not appear until after harvest. On potato plants, infection of leaves doesn't necessarily mean that tubers will be diseased. Tubers become infected by late blight when fungal spores wash down through the soil or tubers come in contact with foliage at harvest.
To prevent this from happening, remove and destroy all potato foliage and wait a week before harvesting to allow the tuber skins to cure. Monitor potatoes in storage for dry brownish rotted areas; disease symptoms may not appear until after harvest.
Wet weather with cool nights and warm days favors the spread of late blight. In warm parts of the United States, the pathogen can overwinter in soil and plant debris. In cold-winter areas, it survives only in potato tubers left in the soil, though the fungal spores move easily and quickly on the wind, spreading northward each growing season.
Prevention and Control
As a preventive measure, use Actinovate®, an organic fungicide. Add a copper-based product, such as our ready-to-spray Copper Fungicide, when late blight is present.
Buy certified disease-free seed and transplants. Seek out late blight-resistant varieties of tomatoes and potatoes.
Keep plant foliage as dry as possible; use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Space plants generously to ensure good air circulation.
Uproot and destroy any volunteer tomato or potato plants that sprout in your garden.
Plants that become infected with late blight can rarely be saved. As the disease advances, the number of fungal spores produced multiplies rapidly. Remove infected plants from your garden as soon as possible. Bury deeply in the soil or put them in a plastic bag for disposal.
Be thorough when harvesting potatoes. Destroy any infected tubers that you find.
Unlike early blight, late blight does not cause the plant’s leaves to drop off; leaves usually remain attached even after they’ve turned brown and dried up. On tomato plants, infected fruits develop large sunken areas. These may not appear until after harvest. On potato plants, infection of leaves doesn't necessarily mean that tubers will be diseased. Tubers become infected by late blight when fungal spores wash down through the soil or tubers come in contact with foliage at harvest.
To prevent this from happening, remove and destroy all potato foliage and wait a week before harvesting to allow the tuber skins to cure. Monitor potatoes in storage for dry brownish rotted areas; disease symptoms may not appear until after harvest.
Wet weather with cool nights and warm days favors the spread of late blight. In warm parts of the United States, the pathogen can overwinter in soil and plant debris. In cold-winter areas, it survives only in potato tubers left in the soil, though the fungal spores move easily and quickly on the wind, spreading northward each growing season.
Prevention and Control
As a preventive measure, use Actinovate®, an organic fungicide. Add a copper-based product, such as our ready-to-spray Copper Fungicide, when late blight is present.
Buy certified disease-free seed and transplants. Seek out late blight-resistant varieties of tomatoes and potatoes.
Keep plant foliage as dry as possible; use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Space plants generously to ensure good air circulation.
Uproot and destroy any volunteer tomato or potato plants that sprout in your garden.
Plants that become infected with late blight can rarely be saved. As the disease advances, the number of fungal spores produced multiplies rapidly. Remove infected plants from your garden as soon as possible. Bury deeply in the soil or put them in a plastic bag for disposal.
Be thorough when harvesting potatoes. Destroy any infected tubers that you find.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The large, white flowers of the baobab tree dangle from the branches on long stems. Huge, crinkled petals and a big cluster of stamen give baobab tree flowers an exotic, powder puff appearance. Find out more about baobabs and their unusual flowers in this article.
About African Baobab Trees
Native to the African Savannah, baobabs are best suited to warm climates. The trees are also grown in Australia and sometimes in large, open estates and parks in Florida and parts of the Caribbean.
The tree’s overall appearance is unusual. The trunk, which can be 30 feet in diameter, contains a soft wood that is often attacked by a fungus and hollows it out. Once hollow, the tree can be used as a meeting place or dwelling. The interior of the tree has even been used as a jail in Australia. Baobabs can live for thousands of years.
The branches are short, thick and twisted. African folklore holds that the unusual branch structure is the result of the tree’s constant complaining that it didn’t have many of the attractive features of other trees. The devil yanked the tree out of the ground and shoved it back in top first with its tangled roots exposed. Additionally, its strange and eerie appearance made the tree ideal for its starring role as the Tree of Life in the Disney film Lion King. Baobab flower blooming is another story altogether.
Flowers of Baobab Tree
You can think of an African baobab tree (Adansonia digitata) as a self-indulgent plant, with flowering patterns that suit itself, but not the desires of people. For one thing, baobab flowers are stinky. This, combined with their tendency to open only at night, make baobab flowers difficult for humans to enjoy. On the other hand, bats find baobab flower blooming cycles a perfect match for their lifestyle. These night-feeding mammals are attracted by the malodorous fragrance, and use this feature to find the African baobab trees so they can feed on the nectar produced by the flowers. In exchange for this nutritious treat, the bats serve the trees by pollinating the flowers.
The flowers of the baobab tree are followed by large, gourd-like fruit that is covered with gray fur. The fruit’s appearance is said to resemble dead rats hanging by their tails. This has given rise to the nickname “dead rat tree.” The tree is also known as the “tree of life” for its nutritional benefits. People, as well as many animals, enjoy the starchy pulp, which tastes like gingerbread.
About African Baobab Trees
Native to the African Savannah, baobabs are best suited to warm climates. The trees are also grown in Australia and sometimes in large, open estates and parks in Florida and parts of the Caribbean.
The tree’s overall appearance is unusual. The trunk, which can be 30 feet in diameter, contains a soft wood that is often attacked by a fungus and hollows it out. Once hollow, the tree can be used as a meeting place or dwelling. The interior of the tree has even been used as a jail in Australia. Baobabs can live for thousands of years.
The branches are short, thick and twisted. African folklore holds that the unusual branch structure is the result of the tree’s constant complaining that it didn’t have many of the attractive features of other trees. The devil yanked the tree out of the ground and shoved it back in top first with its tangled roots exposed. Additionally, its strange and eerie appearance made the tree ideal for its starring role as the Tree of Life in the Disney film Lion King. Baobab flower blooming is another story altogether.
Flowers of Baobab Tree
You can think of an African baobab tree (Adansonia digitata) as a self-indulgent plant, with flowering patterns that suit itself, but not the desires of people. For one thing, baobab flowers are stinky. This, combined with their tendency to open only at night, make baobab flowers difficult for humans to enjoy. On the other hand, bats find baobab flower blooming cycles a perfect match for their lifestyle. These night-feeding mammals are attracted by the malodorous fragrance, and use this feature to find the African baobab trees so they can feed on the nectar produced by the flowers. In exchange for this nutritious treat, the bats serve the trees by pollinating the flowers.
The flowers of the baobab tree are followed by large, gourd-like fruit that is covered with gray fur. The fruit’s appearance is said to resemble dead rats hanging by their tails. This has given rise to the nickname “dead rat tree.” The tree is also known as the “tree of life” for its nutritional benefits. People, as well as many animals, enjoy the starchy pulp, which tastes like gingerbread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are suitable for moist sites in full sun. They perform well in almost any climate, but the limbs and stems are not strong and may bend and break in storms. There are many types of willow trees for the home landscape. Learn how to grow a willow tree for a fast growing, easy-to-care for screen or specimen tree.
Types of Willow Trees
There are tree and shrub willows, all of which are characterized by their love for moist soil and rangy, sometimes invasive root systems. You may even find a willow tree growing at the edge of a stream or river. Weeping and pussy willows are probably two of the better-known types of willow trees, but there are many others.
Weeping willows – Weeping willows have graceful arching stems that dangle delicately and shiver in the breeze. Pussy willows – Pussy willows put on a spring display of fuzzy buds that are charming and reminiscent of childhood.
Gold or White willows – Golden and white willows are introduced species from Europe and often used as screens and part of shelterbelts. Black willows – Black willows are native to parts of North America and common along waterways. Corkscrew willows – Corkscrew willows have attractive decorative stems, which spiral appealingly and provide interest in winter.
How to Grow a Willow Tree
You can grow a willow tree from cuttings. Take a cutting from a live terminal branch that is 18 inches long. Insert the cut end into moist soil in a pot with good drainage or straight into garden soil. Keep it moderately moist until the cutting roots. A more common method of willow tree growing is from bare root trees that are at least 1 year old. These need to have the roots soaked in a bucket before planting and soil worked to twice the depth and diameter of the root spread. Push soil in and around the roots when planting willow trees, and water the soil in well. Thereafter, follow good willow tree care for a fast growing tree or shrub.
Planting Willow Trees
Consider carefully where you plant your tree or shrub. Not all types of willow tree are invasive, but many are and you do not want their root system all over your planting bed. Provide a collar around young trees to protect them from wildlife. Young trees are especially susceptible to the nibbling of deer, elk and even rabbits. They need to be kept quite moist but not soggy as the roots establish.
Willow Tree Care
Willow trees are easy to grow and require moderate care. Prune young trees to keep lower limbs up for easier maintenance. Otherwise, willows do not need trimming and only removal of old and dead wood is required, though many people prefer to keep pussy willows trimmed. Willows flourish in moist organic-rich soils. If your soil is poor and has limited nutrients, work in compost at the time of planting and fertilize with an all-purpose plant food in early spring.
Water willows in periods of drought and watch for pests and disease. Willows are not bothered by many problems but it is easier to nip them in the bud at the first sign rather than wait until the plant’s health is compromised.
Types of Willow Trees
There are tree and shrub willows, all of which are characterized by their love for moist soil and rangy, sometimes invasive root systems. You may even find a willow tree growing at the edge of a stream or river. Weeping and pussy willows are probably two of the better-known types of willow trees, but there are many others.
Weeping willows – Weeping willows have graceful arching stems that dangle delicately and shiver in the breeze. Pussy willows – Pussy willows put on a spring display of fuzzy buds that are charming and reminiscent of childhood.
Gold or White willows – Golden and white willows are introduced species from Europe and often used as screens and part of shelterbelts. Black willows – Black willows are native to parts of North America and common along waterways. Corkscrew willows – Corkscrew willows have attractive decorative stems, which spiral appealingly and provide interest in winter.
How to Grow a Willow Tree
You can grow a willow tree from cuttings. Take a cutting from a live terminal branch that is 18 inches long. Insert the cut end into moist soil in a pot with good drainage or straight into garden soil. Keep it moderately moist until the cutting roots. A more common method of willow tree growing is from bare root trees that are at least 1 year old. These need to have the roots soaked in a bucket before planting and soil worked to twice the depth and diameter of the root spread. Push soil in and around the roots when planting willow trees, and water the soil in well. Thereafter, follow good willow tree care for a fast growing tree or shrub.
Planting Willow Trees
Consider carefully where you plant your tree or shrub. Not all types of willow tree are invasive, but many are and you do not want their root system all over your planting bed. Provide a collar around young trees to protect them from wildlife. Young trees are especially susceptible to the nibbling of deer, elk and even rabbits. They need to be kept quite moist but not soggy as the roots establish.
Willow Tree Care
Willow trees are easy to grow and require moderate care. Prune young trees to keep lower limbs up for easier maintenance. Otherwise, willows do not need trimming and only removal of old and dead wood is required, though many people prefer to keep pussy willows trimmed. Willows flourish in moist organic-rich soils. If your soil is poor and has limited nutrients, work in compost at the time of planting and fertilize with an all-purpose plant food in early spring.
Water willows in periods of drought and watch for pests and disease. Willows are not bothered by many problems but it is easier to nip them in the bud at the first sign rather than wait until the plant’s health is compromised.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Flat stems of feathery, blue-green foliage and ornamental bark combine to make Leyland cypress an appealing choice for medium to large landscapes. Leyland cypress trees grow three feet or more per year, making it an excellent choice for a quick specimen or lawn tree, or a privacy hedge. Information about Leyland cypress will help with growing healthy trees.
Information About Leyland Cypress
Leland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii) is a rare, but successful, hybrid between two different genera: Cupressus and Chamaecyparis. Leyland cypress has a short lifespan for an evergreen tree, surviving for 10 to 20 years. This tall evergreen conifer is grown commercially in the Southeast as a Christmas tree. The tree grows to a height of 50 to 70 feet, and although the spread is only 12 to 15 feet, it may overwhelm small, residential properties. Therefore, larger areas are most suitable for growing a Leyland cypress tree. The tree is also useful in coastal landscapes where it tolerates salt spray.
How to Grow Leyland Cypress Trees
Leyland cypress trees need a location in full sun or partial shade and a rich, well-drained soil. Avoid windy sites where the tree may be blown over. Plant the tree so that the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil in a hole about twice as wide as the root ball. Backfill the hole with the soil that you removed from it without amendments. Press down with your foot as you fill the hole to remove any air pockets that may be present.
Leyland Cypress Care
Leyland cypress trees need very little care. Water them deeply during prolonged drought, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot. The tree doesn’t need regular fertilization. Watch for bagworms and, if possible, remove the bags before the larvae they contain have a chance to emerge.
Growing a Leyland Cypress Pruned Hedge
Its narrow, columnar growth pattern makes Leyland cypress ideal for use as a hedge to screen out unsightly views or protect your privacy. To form a pruned hedge, set out the trees with 3 feet of space between them. When they reach a height about a foot beyond the desired height of the hedge, top them to about 6 inches below that height. Prune the shrubs every year in midsummer to maintain the height and shape the hedge. Pruning during damp weather, however, can lead to disease.
Information About Leyland Cypress
Leland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii) is a rare, but successful, hybrid between two different genera: Cupressus and Chamaecyparis. Leyland cypress has a short lifespan for an evergreen tree, surviving for 10 to 20 years. This tall evergreen conifer is grown commercially in the Southeast as a Christmas tree. The tree grows to a height of 50 to 70 feet, and although the spread is only 12 to 15 feet, it may overwhelm small, residential properties. Therefore, larger areas are most suitable for growing a Leyland cypress tree. The tree is also useful in coastal landscapes where it tolerates salt spray.
How to Grow Leyland Cypress Trees
Leyland cypress trees need a location in full sun or partial shade and a rich, well-drained soil. Avoid windy sites where the tree may be blown over. Plant the tree so that the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil in a hole about twice as wide as the root ball. Backfill the hole with the soil that you removed from it without amendments. Press down with your foot as you fill the hole to remove any air pockets that may be present.
Leyland Cypress Care
Leyland cypress trees need very little care. Water them deeply during prolonged drought, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot. The tree doesn’t need regular fertilization. Watch for bagworms and, if possible, remove the bags before the larvae they contain have a chance to emerge.
Growing a Leyland Cypress Pruned Hedge
Its narrow, columnar growth pattern makes Leyland cypress ideal for use as a hedge to screen out unsightly views or protect your privacy. To form a pruned hedge, set out the trees with 3 feet of space between them. When they reach a height about a foot beyond the desired height of the hedge, top them to about 6 inches below that height. Prune the shrubs every year in midsummer to maintain the height and shape the hedge. Pruning during damp weather, however, can lead to disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy plants (Hedera helix) are superb climbers, clinging to almost any surface by means of small roots that grow along the stems. English ivy care is a snap, so you can plant it in distant and hard-to-reach areas without worrying about maintenance.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
How to Revive Droopy-Headed Roses. Your sweetie has just spent a small fortune on roses for Valentine's Day. If this generous expression of love is in less than perfect condition and the buds are drooping at the top of the stems, try this simple way to revive these sentimental favorites.
Step 1
Remove the roses from the vase and set aside any greenery or baby's breath that accompanies the flowers.
Step 2
Separate the roses, but keep them in fresh water while you work.
Step 3
Make a fresh cut on each stem, about an inch or so up, while holding the stem under water. Cutting underwater allows a drop of water to adhere to the cut end while you move the flower; if you don't have this drop of water, air will enter the stem and cause the bud to droop.
Step 4
Roll each fresh-cut flower into a sheet of newspaper. The newspaper should be wrapped tightly to support the bud in line with the stem. Use rubber bands or tape so that the newspaper doesn't unroll.
Step 5
Submerge the wrapped rose in a deep, long container such as a bathtub or a sink. The rose should be completely under water.
Step 6
Roll, wrap and submerge the rest of the roses.
Step 7
Allow the roses to soak in their wrappers for several hours.
Step 8
Remove the wrapped roses from the submersion bath, unwrap each one and place in a vase filled with fresh water.
Step 1
Remove the roses from the vase and set aside any greenery or baby's breath that accompanies the flowers.
Step 2
Separate the roses, but keep them in fresh water while you work.
Step 3
Make a fresh cut on each stem, about an inch or so up, while holding the stem under water. Cutting underwater allows a drop of water to adhere to the cut end while you move the flower; if you don't have this drop of water, air will enter the stem and cause the bud to droop.
Step 4
Roll each fresh-cut flower into a sheet of newspaper. The newspaper should be wrapped tightly to support the bud in line with the stem. Use rubber bands or tape so that the newspaper doesn't unroll.
Step 5
Submerge the wrapped rose in a deep, long container such as a bathtub or a sink. The rose should be completely under water.
Step 6
Roll, wrap and submerge the rest of the roses.
Step 7
Allow the roses to soak in their wrappers for several hours.
Step 8
Remove the wrapped roses from the submersion bath, unwrap each one and place in a vase filled with fresh water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
"Gather ye rosebuds while ye may," poet Robert Herrick tells us, but he doesn't mention how to make them open. Whether you received florist rose flowers or cut a selection of your own from your garden, warm water and shorter stems are two tricks to try.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
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