文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
You don’t need many excuses to grow borage. With its brilliant blue starry flowers and charismatic fuzzy stems, borage is an herb with tons of garden appeal. This plant has a rich history of use as an herbal remedy but you might also consider borage cover crops to enrich soil. Using borage as green manure allows the nutrients brought up by the plant’s deep taproot to be dispersed into the upper areas of soil when the plant composts. Borage returns high nitrogen to the soil when it is tilled back in. The result is healthy soil, rich in nutrients and deeply aerated earth.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
With their lovely purple stems and purple-veined leaves on a shiny, dark green background, Thai basil plants are grown not only for their culinary uses but also as an ornamental specimen. Keep reading for more information on Thai basil uses.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are another commonly grown houseplant. They make excellent additions to hanging baskets with their long, ribbon-like foliage and arching stems of spiderettes spilling over the edges. To keep these plants looking their best, it is occasionally necessary to trim spider plant leaves and spiderettes.
Trimming Spider Plant Leaves
When given the proper growing conditions, spider plants can reach 2 ½ to 3 feet in both diameter and length. As a result, spider plants benefit from an occasional pruning. This is normally done during spring, or in most cases, summer. Pruning spider plants keeps them at a more desirable and manageable size and rejuvenates their overall health and vigor. In addition, the more babies it produces, the more the plant needs fertilizer and water as this uses up much of its energy. Therefore, the spiderettes should be removed as well. These can then be placed in moist soil or water to make additional plants, which root within a few weeks.
How to Prune Spider Plant
Any foliage being pruned should be cut at the base of the plant. Always use sharp pruners or scissors when pruning spider plants. Remove all discolored, diseased, or dead foliage as needed. To remove the spiderettes, cut the long stems back to the base from both the mother plant and the baby. For overgrown or pot bound plants, repotting in addition to pruning may be necessary. After pruning, repot the spider plant, giving it a good root pruning as well prior to returning it to the pot of fresh soil. Generally, it’s a good idea to include root pruning at least once every year or two.
Spider Plants Brown Tips
Occasionally, you may notice brown tips on your spider plants. Oftentimes this is due to the type of water being used during irrigation. For example, city water often contains chemicals such as chlorine or fluoride that can be hard on plants. Over time these chemicals will build up in the foliage, eventually burning the tips and subsequently turning them brown. For this reason, it’s better to use distilled water (or rainwater) whenever possible. You could also choose to leave some water sitting out overnight to lessen the chemical effects. Brown tips can also occur from too much sunlight and low humidity. Keep spider plants out of direct light and mist the plants when the humidity is low. Remove any leaves that have brown tips as well as any that may be yellowing.
Trimming Spider Plant Leaves
When given the proper growing conditions, spider plants can reach 2 ½ to 3 feet in both diameter and length. As a result, spider plants benefit from an occasional pruning. This is normally done during spring, or in most cases, summer. Pruning spider plants keeps them at a more desirable and manageable size and rejuvenates their overall health and vigor. In addition, the more babies it produces, the more the plant needs fertilizer and water as this uses up much of its energy. Therefore, the spiderettes should be removed as well. These can then be placed in moist soil or water to make additional plants, which root within a few weeks.
How to Prune Spider Plant
Any foliage being pruned should be cut at the base of the plant. Always use sharp pruners or scissors when pruning spider plants. Remove all discolored, diseased, or dead foliage as needed. To remove the spiderettes, cut the long stems back to the base from both the mother plant and the baby. For overgrown or pot bound plants, repotting in addition to pruning may be necessary. After pruning, repot the spider plant, giving it a good root pruning as well prior to returning it to the pot of fresh soil. Generally, it’s a good idea to include root pruning at least once every year or two.
Spider Plants Brown Tips
Occasionally, you may notice brown tips on your spider plants. Oftentimes this is due to the type of water being used during irrigation. For example, city water often contains chemicals such as chlorine or fluoride that can be hard on plants. Over time these chemicals will build up in the foliage, eventually burning the tips and subsequently turning them brown. For this reason, it’s better to use distilled water (or rainwater) whenever possible. You could also choose to leave some water sitting out overnight to lessen the chemical effects. Brown tips can also occur from too much sunlight and low humidity. Keep spider plants out of direct light and mist the plants when the humidity is low. Remove any leaves that have brown tips as well as any that may be yellowing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Who doesn’t love a spider plant? These charming little plants are easy to grow and produce “spiderettes” off the ends of their stems. These babies can be divided from the parent plant and grown as separate plants. Can you grow spider plants in water? Plants need certain nutrients to grow and thrive and can’t be sustained in water long term unless you are using a hydroponic solution. However, you can root the little plantlets and transfer them to soil once the root system is vigorous.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The ponytail palm is also sometimes called a bottle palm or elephant foot tree. This southern Mexico native is mostly propagated through seeds, which germinate readily. In just a few years, the seedlings will produce tall slender stems with wide bases. Propagating ponytail palm seeds starts with harvesting fresh seed from the ivory white to creamy green flowers. We’ll tell you all you need to know on how to grow ponytail palm from seeds and increase your stock of this wonderful unique plant.
Ponytail Palm Propagation
The ponytail palm makes a perfect houseplant, being tolerant of many light levels and conditions. It can also grow outdoors in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. These fun little plants are usually only 2 to 4 feet tall in containers but outdoor, in-ground plants can achieve 10 to 15 feet in height. It is usually the outdoor specimens that produce the flowers and seeds. Wait until the flower petals are spent and the seed capsules are beginning to dry before harvesting ponytail palm seeds.
Ponytail palms are also often propagated by division of offsets. These are smaller versions of the parent plant that may crop up around the swollen trunk. Remove these in spring and start them off in pots for the first couple of years. For ponytail palm seed propagation, you will need fresh, viable seed from the pollinated flowers. The plants are dioecious, which means only female plants produce seed. Gather the capsules or fruits when they are no longer green and are tan to brown. Open capsules into a clean container or onto paper to capture the seeds. Bloom time is summer, so the best time for harvesting ponytail palm seeds is early fall.
How to Grow Ponytail Palm from Seeds
Propagating ponytail palm seeds is the surest way to grow more of these fun plants. While division is quicker, offsets do not always root. Growing ponytail palms from their seed results in a surer propagation method and seeds germinate rapidly if soaked overnight or gently scarified. The tough seed coating needs to be softened or damaged slightly to allow the sprout to emerge. Ponytail palms prefer light gritty soil. A good mixture for seed is 4 parts sand, 2 parts peat and 1 part each sterile soil and perlite. Sow seeds in 3-inch containers so you don’t need to disturb seedlings for quite some time. Moisten the medium and sow seed on the surface of the soil, pressing it in lightly. Top off with a light dusting of sand.
Care During Ponytail Palm Seed Propagation
Keep the container lightly moist by misting and place in an area with a temperature of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.). Heat under the container can speed germination. Cover the container with plastic until germination. Remove the plastic once per day to allow excess moisture to escape. Keep the container in a brightly lit area but with some shelter from noonday sun, which may burn new leaves. You can expect sprouts in 1 to 3 months depending upon the time of year and amount of light and heat the plant experiences. Remove the heating mat and plastic once you see sprouts. Continue to mist your little ponytail palms and keep them in a bright, warm area. Once the seedlings have several pairs of true leaves, water deeply but infrequently in summer and reduce to half in winter. Use a good liquid plant food diluted in spring and again in summer.
Ponytail Palm Propagation
The ponytail palm makes a perfect houseplant, being tolerant of many light levels and conditions. It can also grow outdoors in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. These fun little plants are usually only 2 to 4 feet tall in containers but outdoor, in-ground plants can achieve 10 to 15 feet in height. It is usually the outdoor specimens that produce the flowers and seeds. Wait until the flower petals are spent and the seed capsules are beginning to dry before harvesting ponytail palm seeds.
Ponytail palms are also often propagated by division of offsets. These are smaller versions of the parent plant that may crop up around the swollen trunk. Remove these in spring and start them off in pots for the first couple of years. For ponytail palm seed propagation, you will need fresh, viable seed from the pollinated flowers. The plants are dioecious, which means only female plants produce seed. Gather the capsules or fruits when they are no longer green and are tan to brown. Open capsules into a clean container or onto paper to capture the seeds. Bloom time is summer, so the best time for harvesting ponytail palm seeds is early fall.
How to Grow Ponytail Palm from Seeds
Propagating ponytail palm seeds is the surest way to grow more of these fun plants. While division is quicker, offsets do not always root. Growing ponytail palms from their seed results in a surer propagation method and seeds germinate rapidly if soaked overnight or gently scarified. The tough seed coating needs to be softened or damaged slightly to allow the sprout to emerge. Ponytail palms prefer light gritty soil. A good mixture for seed is 4 parts sand, 2 parts peat and 1 part each sterile soil and perlite. Sow seeds in 3-inch containers so you don’t need to disturb seedlings for quite some time. Moisten the medium and sow seed on the surface of the soil, pressing it in lightly. Top off with a light dusting of sand.
Care During Ponytail Palm Seed Propagation
Keep the container lightly moist by misting and place in an area with a temperature of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.). Heat under the container can speed germination. Cover the container with plastic until germination. Remove the plastic once per day to allow excess moisture to escape. Keep the container in a brightly lit area but with some shelter from noonday sun, which may burn new leaves. You can expect sprouts in 1 to 3 months depending upon the time of year and amount of light and heat the plant experiences. Remove the heating mat and plastic once you see sprouts. Continue to mist your little ponytail palms and keep them in a bright, warm area. Once the seedlings have several pairs of true leaves, water deeply but infrequently in summer and reduce to half in winter. Use a good liquid plant food diluted in spring and again in summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti come in a bewildering array of forms. These marvelous succulents have incredible adaptations to survive the inhospitable terrains they generally inhabit. Epiphyllum curly locks is an example of a cactus that uses its stems to capture more moisture and light. The plant has curly, curved stems which are the result of a mutation of a plant called Epiphyllum guatemalense. The name for this mutated cactus is Epiphyllum monstrosa. If you know someone with the plant, it is easy to learn how to grow curly locks from stem fragments.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias are bright and colorful annual flowers thriving throughout the country. They grow in both small and large varieties and bring color to all summertime gardens. They require the right season and conditions to maintain healthy stems, foliage and blooms. Petunias may go brown for a number of reasons.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Native to tropical Asia, the bamboo orchid (Arundina graminifolia or Arundina barbusifolia) grows to 8 feet with reedy stems and evergreen, grass-like leaves up to 1-foot long. Its 2- to 3-inch-wide flowers appear in clusters at the stems' tips in summer and autumn, each lasting for about three days. Those fragrant blooms vary in color from white to pinkish mauve with a darker purple lip. The Missouri Botanical Garden lists the bamboo orchid as perennial only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12, but other sources consider it hardy as far north as USDA zone 9.
Indoor Position
Due to its large size and preference for high humidity, this orchid generally performs better outdoors than indoors. If you wish to try it as a houseplant, a clump – which usually contains three to five canes – needs a pot at least 12 inches in diameter. The bamboo orchid isn't picky about its medium and can be grown in regular potting soil, sphagnum moss or a more typical orchid mix of 1 part organic potting soil, 1 part coarse orchid bark and 1 part sand.
The bamboo orchid prefers full sun or at least partial sun, so position it on or near a south-facing windowsill where it receives temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep the air moist around it by placing it in a humid room, such as a bathroom, or setting it atop a humidity tray.
The plant is seldom bothered by pests or diseases.
Indoor Provisions
Water the orchid frequently enough that its medium or mix never dries out completely.
Fertilize it once a week from spring to fall with a 20-20-20 plant food, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the crystals into 1 gallon of water. Always follow label instructions.
If possible, move the plant outdoors during the summer, setting it in shade at first, and gradually accustoming it to full sun.
Outdoor Position
If you wish to grow the bamboo orchid outdoors, place it in a protected, raised bed in full or partial sun. That bed should be filled with a humus-rich soil, which is about 2 parts compost, 1 part topsoil and 1 part coarse sand. Space the plants 1 foot apart in that bed and mulch it with 3 inches of shredded bark -- to keep the soil moist -- but don't allow the mulch to touch the plant's stems.
Outdoor Provisions
Water the bed about once every three days when there is no rain, or however often is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out.
Feed the orchids once every two months during spring and summer by pulling back the mulch and sprinkling the pellets of an organic fertilizer, such as 5-5-5 around the bases of the plants, using 1 cup for each 20 square feet of bed.
When all the buds on a cane have bloomed, snip that cane off near soil level with sterilized pruning tools.
Indoor Position
Due to its large size and preference for high humidity, this orchid generally performs better outdoors than indoors. If you wish to try it as a houseplant, a clump – which usually contains three to five canes – needs a pot at least 12 inches in diameter. The bamboo orchid isn't picky about its medium and can be grown in regular potting soil, sphagnum moss or a more typical orchid mix of 1 part organic potting soil, 1 part coarse orchid bark and 1 part sand.
The bamboo orchid prefers full sun or at least partial sun, so position it on or near a south-facing windowsill where it receives temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep the air moist around it by placing it in a humid room, such as a bathroom, or setting it atop a humidity tray.
The plant is seldom bothered by pests or diseases.
Indoor Provisions
Water the orchid frequently enough that its medium or mix never dries out completely.
Fertilize it once a week from spring to fall with a 20-20-20 plant food, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the crystals into 1 gallon of water. Always follow label instructions.
If possible, move the plant outdoors during the summer, setting it in shade at first, and gradually accustoming it to full sun.
Outdoor Position
If you wish to grow the bamboo orchid outdoors, place it in a protected, raised bed in full or partial sun. That bed should be filled with a humus-rich soil, which is about 2 parts compost, 1 part topsoil and 1 part coarse sand. Space the plants 1 foot apart in that bed and mulch it with 3 inches of shredded bark -- to keep the soil moist -- but don't allow the mulch to touch the plant's stems.
Outdoor Provisions
Water the bed about once every three days when there is no rain, or however often is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out.
Feed the orchids once every two months during spring and summer by pulling back the mulch and sprinkling the pellets of an organic fertilizer, such as 5-5-5 around the bases of the plants, using 1 cup for each 20 square feet of bed.
When all the buds on a cane have bloomed, snip that cane off near soil level with sterilized pruning tools.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids bloom at various times throughout the year depending on the species and growing conditions. Cattleyas and phalaenopsis, for instance, tend to bloom in the spring while cymbidiums and oncidiums generally bloom in the winter. The flower stems will dry up and turn brown after the flowers fall, at which time they can be cut off. Where the stem or spike should be cut depends on the type, health and maturity of the orchid.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Known for their tropical habitats, orchids (Orchidaceae) enjoy warm and humid conditions to produce their stunning blossoms on long, outstretched stems. According to Brooklyn Botanic Garden, this huge flowering family prefers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10 for terrestrial species such as ladyslipper orchids (Paphiopedilum spp.) and warmer zones 10 and 11 for or moth orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.). Most orchid species do not grow better in sunlight but prefer partial shade.
Indoor Location
Indirect sunlight exposure is critical for indoor orchids to generate flower stems and blossoms. Choose any window that does not face north for your orchid. North-facing locations do not provide enough sunlight for maximum photosynthesis and flower development. The plant should not be directly on the windowsill -- place it several feet in from the glass to avoid direct sunlight. Use sheer curtains on the window to avoid any accidental sun rays from striking the orchid throughout the day. Alternatively, you can raise your indoor orchids under fluorescent lights ran for approximately 12 hours each day. The lights should be no closer than 6 inches above the foliage to prevent heat stress.
Outdoor Consideration
If you live in warmer regions with mild winters, you can create an outdoor oasis for your orchids under a tree canopy. Choose a tree that has some light penetration rather than a dense canopy with deep shade. Many orchids are epiphytic -- they grow on tree limbs to access the flowing rainwater on the bark. Using cotton string, carefully attach your orchid to a tree limb. You should observe your orchid throughout the next year to verify that direct sunlight does not burn the leaves through open foliage gaps in the tree canopy. Sunlight heat radiating onto the ground and reflecting into the tree canopy provides a sheltered area for healthy orchid growth.
Leaf Signals
Your orchid leaves reflect their sunlight stress level through color changes. Dense shading hinders photosynthesis so leaves respond with more chlorophyll to increase energy production -- your leaves change from a brilliant green to a darkened hue. In contrast, direct sunlight scorches leaves. They appear yellow to beige in color as sunlight damage progresses. Moving your orchid to a new location alleviates sunlight stress, but the plant needs to recover with new leaf growth; your flowering may be reduced or fail altogether for one or more flowering periods.
Temperature Influence
Orchid leaves should have the same ambient temperature as their surrounding environment. If they feel hot, they are exposed to too much sunlight. In fact, orchids need some temperature swings between day and night to signal flowering periods. In general, your orchid needs to be exposed to a minimum 10-degree temperature difference from night to day for normal flowering. Outdoor orchids easily achieve this difference, but indoor specimens may need to be moved to a cooler location to stimulate flowering. Once flower buds emerge, your orchid requires normal indirect sunlight to photosynthesize and support the growing blossoms.
Indoor Location
Indirect sunlight exposure is critical for indoor orchids to generate flower stems and blossoms. Choose any window that does not face north for your orchid. North-facing locations do not provide enough sunlight for maximum photosynthesis and flower development. The plant should not be directly on the windowsill -- place it several feet in from the glass to avoid direct sunlight. Use sheer curtains on the window to avoid any accidental sun rays from striking the orchid throughout the day. Alternatively, you can raise your indoor orchids under fluorescent lights ran for approximately 12 hours each day. The lights should be no closer than 6 inches above the foliage to prevent heat stress.
Outdoor Consideration
If you live in warmer regions with mild winters, you can create an outdoor oasis for your orchids under a tree canopy. Choose a tree that has some light penetration rather than a dense canopy with deep shade. Many orchids are epiphytic -- they grow on tree limbs to access the flowing rainwater on the bark. Using cotton string, carefully attach your orchid to a tree limb. You should observe your orchid throughout the next year to verify that direct sunlight does not burn the leaves through open foliage gaps in the tree canopy. Sunlight heat radiating onto the ground and reflecting into the tree canopy provides a sheltered area for healthy orchid growth.
Leaf Signals
Your orchid leaves reflect their sunlight stress level through color changes. Dense shading hinders photosynthesis so leaves respond with more chlorophyll to increase energy production -- your leaves change from a brilliant green to a darkened hue. In contrast, direct sunlight scorches leaves. They appear yellow to beige in color as sunlight damage progresses. Moving your orchid to a new location alleviates sunlight stress, but the plant needs to recover with new leaf growth; your flowering may be reduced or fail altogether for one or more flowering periods.
Temperature Influence
Orchid leaves should have the same ambient temperature as their surrounding environment. If they feel hot, they are exposed to too much sunlight. In fact, orchids need some temperature swings between day and night to signal flowering periods. In general, your orchid needs to be exposed to a minimum 10-degree temperature difference from night to day for normal flowering. Outdoor orchids easily achieve this difference, but indoor specimens may need to be moved to a cooler location to stimulate flowering. Once flower buds emerge, your orchid requires normal indirect sunlight to photosynthesize and support the growing blossoms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Most plants are divided into two major categories, monocots and dicots. Both types of plants are leafy and flowering, with stems, root systems and reproduction via pollen. However, there are some major differences between the two types of plant families. Rose plants are in the dicot family.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Black spot, or diplocarpon rosae, is one of the most dreaded diseases of roses. Black spots form on leaves and stems causing them to yellow and drop. A serious infection can cause complete defoliation of the plant. Adopting a regular schedule of applying fungicidal sprays can greatly reduce the scope and damage the fungus can do to your roses. You do not have to buy expensive potions from the garden center. Just mix up one of these proven recipes from ingredients you may have on hand at home.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Signs of animal damage to rose plantings cause concern, especially since you devoted your time and effort to growing and maintaining the plants. Critters, including deer and rabbits, chew rose blooms, buds and leaves, and scratch stems, leaving behind a trampled mess. The otherwise shy and docile pests attack the plants at night or early in the morning, when human activity is absent. Adopt a preventive strategy to keep the animals away from your precious roses.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dodder is parasitic on a wide range of plants and shrubs, but in particular on members of the pea (Fabaceae) and heath (Ericaceae) families. Common dodder forms a mass of purple or reddish thread-like stems that crawl all over the host plant; and both the leaves, which are reduced to small scales, and the tiny flowers are very difficult to spot. The flowers appear in clusters and are white or pale pink.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
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