文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Iceberg roses are one of the oldest and most beautiful of the climbing roses. The blooms are so white, they are almost blinding. However, they do not make good cut flowers for two reasons. Their stems are very thin, and they do not stand up well in a vase, and the blooms grow in clusters, so it is hard to cut without cutting off the new buds as well. But they make a spectacular display along a fence, on a trellis or over an arbor. These steps will help you with the pruning process.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you're wondering whether your rose bush (Rosa spp.) is dead or alive, you're not alone. Roses go dormant over winter, and most look fairly dead by the time spring rolls around. Even if all of a rose's stems, or canes, look dry and black, the rose still might be alive.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Periwinkle, also known as Vinca or creeping myrtle, is one of the easiest to grow ground covers or trailing plants. However, its tendency to root at the internodes where stems touch the ground can make it an invasive competitor to other plants. Getting rid of periwinkle takes some serious elbow grease unless you wish to resort to chemicals. There are at least two useful periwinkle control methods in the following text.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Miscanthus sinensis, or maiden grass, is a family of ornamental plants with a clumping habit and graceful arching stems. This group of grasses has added appeal in late summer with spectacular plumes and in fall with bronze to burgundy colored foliage. Miscanthus maiden grass is easy to care for and hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. There are numerous maiden grass varieties with different sizes and foliage colors. Bring one of these elegant grasses into your home landscape for powerful dimension, color and movement.
Miscanthus Maiden Grass
Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Ornamental maiden grass is excellent used in containers, but more commonly planted in groups or as a border or along the edges of beds. Miscanthus maiden grass has a very regal appeal and provides elegant décor to flank the front entry or along the driveway. Just remember how tall and wide the grass will get and give it enough room to mature.
How to Grow Maiden Grass
Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. You can do this every three years or more, but it is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out. This is an indicator that it is time to divide the grass. Rejuvenated plants result from division and they have a tighter clumping habit. If you want to know how to grow maiden grass from seed, get ready for a wait. Sow seeds indoors in a flat with a lid. Keep the soil in the flat lightly moist and place the flat in a warm area at least 60 F. (16 C.). The baby sprouts will grow slowly and you will not have a Miscanthus maiden grass big enough to plant outside for at least a year. Your best bet is to find a buddy with a grass and cut out a piece for yourself.
Maiden Grass Care
Maiden grass care couldn’t be simpler. The plants have no known pest or disease problems, except rust. Rust is a fungal disease that is transmitted to leaves when water splashes onto them. Water the plants from under the foliage and when the leaf blades will have time to dry off quickly.
Maiden Grass Varieties
‘Condensatus’ is a variety that can get 8 feet tall and has coarse foliage. ‘Gracillimus’ is a delicately leaved cultivar with a more upright growth habit. For colorful displays, ‘Purpurescens’ is red in summer and purplish red in fall, while ‘Silver Feather’ has shimmering whitish silver inflorescences. There are variegated varieties with horizontal yellow or white stripes, or vertical stripes along the leaf margins. Compact types are usually only 3 to 4 feet tall and suitable for containers. Do a little research on the many maiden grass varieties and choose the right one for your garden location.
Miscanthus Maiden Grass
Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Ornamental maiden grass is excellent used in containers, but more commonly planted in groups or as a border or along the edges of beds. Miscanthus maiden grass has a very regal appeal and provides elegant décor to flank the front entry or along the driveway. Just remember how tall and wide the grass will get and give it enough room to mature.
How to Grow Maiden Grass
Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. You can do this every three years or more, but it is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out. This is an indicator that it is time to divide the grass. Rejuvenated plants result from division and they have a tighter clumping habit. If you want to know how to grow maiden grass from seed, get ready for a wait. Sow seeds indoors in a flat with a lid. Keep the soil in the flat lightly moist and place the flat in a warm area at least 60 F. (16 C.). The baby sprouts will grow slowly and you will not have a Miscanthus maiden grass big enough to plant outside for at least a year. Your best bet is to find a buddy with a grass and cut out a piece for yourself.
Maiden Grass Care
Maiden grass care couldn’t be simpler. The plants have no known pest or disease problems, except rust. Rust is a fungal disease that is transmitted to leaves when water splashes onto them. Water the plants from under the foliage and when the leaf blades will have time to dry off quickly.
Maiden Grass Varieties
‘Condensatus’ is a variety that can get 8 feet tall and has coarse foliage. ‘Gracillimus’ is a delicately leaved cultivar with a more upright growth habit. For colorful displays, ‘Purpurescens’ is red in summer and purplish red in fall, while ‘Silver Feather’ has shimmering whitish silver inflorescences. There are variegated varieties with horizontal yellow or white stripes, or vertical stripes along the leaf margins. Compact types are usually only 3 to 4 feet tall and suitable for containers. Do a little research on the many maiden grass varieties and choose the right one for your garden location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1 ½ inches in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro cactus when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro cactus already grow.
Saguaro Cactus Characteristics
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
Where Do Saguaro Cactus Grow?
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro cactus grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet. If they are growing above 4,000 feet, the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Saguaro Cactus Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation. Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches across. The Saguaro cactus blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
Saguaro Cactus Characteristics
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
Where Do Saguaro Cactus Grow?
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro cactus grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet. If they are growing above 4,000 feet, the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Saguaro Cactus Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation. Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches across. The Saguaro cactus blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Opuntia is the largest genus in the cactus family. You will recognize most by their classic “prickly pear” appearance. There are many types of Opuntia cactus that are common houseplants and are known for their jointed stems and flattened pads. All varieties of Opuntia are easy to grow provided there is ample light, well-drained soil and warm temperatures during the growing season. In warmer climates, growing Opuntia in gardens adds desert appeal and unique flora to the landscape.
Different Varieties of Opuntia
Cactus provide numerous textures and forms for the fun dish garden or as standalone specimens. Opuntia, with their many varied species, are readily available and have a classic form that calls to mind open desert and searing sun. The genus can be found wild across North and South Americas, the Caribbean, Argentina and even as far north as Canada. Interestingly, Opuntia freely hybridize, leading to new species and hybrid crosses. In the U.S. there are 40 recognized species.
Most Opuntia species do not have classic spines but an arrangement called glochids. These are fine, detachable and fuzzy to woolly. If you touch them, you will immediately wish you hadn’t, as they are extremely irritable and difficult to remove. In spite of this detriment, Opuntia are extremely appealing and easy to grow. Some types of Opuntia cactus do have large spines, however. Flowers are cup shaped and may be yellow, white, or pink. These may develop into fruits of red or green. Some Opuntia cactus varieties have edible fruits called “tunas.” These can be made into delicious jam or even candy. The flat pads of the cactus are called cladodes. These pads are also edible and called “nopales.” Some fun Opuntia to grow might include:
Purple prickly pear
Barbary fig
Tulip prickly pear
Bunny ears prickly pear
Violet prickly pear
Pancake prickly pear
Beaver tail pear
Growing Opuntia Cacti
The one thing Opuntia cannot stand is soggy soil. Soil needs to drain freely and have a high amount of gritty material mixed in. For outdoor plants, choose a sunny location with protection from winter winds. Fertilize monthly with a 0-10-10 to help produce flowers and fruits. Opuntia, once established, will tolerate as much water as necessary to keep pads from wrinkling. During the winter, diminish watering by half, as the plant will be in dormancy. Established cacti can have pads harvested 6 times per year. Use clean, sharp knives for harvesting. Take pads from mid-morning to midafternoon when the acid content is lowest for best flavor. “Tunas” are ripe at the end of summer. To harvest fruits, wait until the glochids fall off and then gently twist and pull. Ripe fruit should come off easily.
Propagating Opuntia
The cactus is easy to grow from seed but its slow progression means fully sized specimens will take years. For faster production, try growing Opuntia cacti from pads. Cut a pad that is at least 6 months old and allow the cut end to dry out a bit or callus. If you wish, dip the end in Bordeaux mix or brush on an anti-fungal dust. Make a mixture of equal parts sand or pumice and soil. Settle the pad an inch or so deep into this mixture with rocks or stakes around to hold it upright. Do not water until the pad has sent out roots, usually in a month. Then water the plant but let it dry out between successive waterings. Your new plant will flower and set fruit during the first year. Limit the number of pads you take from the plant for at least a year.
Different Varieties of Opuntia
Cactus provide numerous textures and forms for the fun dish garden or as standalone specimens. Opuntia, with their many varied species, are readily available and have a classic form that calls to mind open desert and searing sun. The genus can be found wild across North and South Americas, the Caribbean, Argentina and even as far north as Canada. Interestingly, Opuntia freely hybridize, leading to new species and hybrid crosses. In the U.S. there are 40 recognized species.
Most Opuntia species do not have classic spines but an arrangement called glochids. These are fine, detachable and fuzzy to woolly. If you touch them, you will immediately wish you hadn’t, as they are extremely irritable and difficult to remove. In spite of this detriment, Opuntia are extremely appealing and easy to grow. Some types of Opuntia cactus do have large spines, however. Flowers are cup shaped and may be yellow, white, or pink. These may develop into fruits of red or green. Some Opuntia cactus varieties have edible fruits called “tunas.” These can be made into delicious jam or even candy. The flat pads of the cactus are called cladodes. These pads are also edible and called “nopales.” Some fun Opuntia to grow might include:
Purple prickly pear
Barbary fig
Tulip prickly pear
Bunny ears prickly pear
Violet prickly pear
Pancake prickly pear
Beaver tail pear
Growing Opuntia Cacti
The one thing Opuntia cannot stand is soggy soil. Soil needs to drain freely and have a high amount of gritty material mixed in. For outdoor plants, choose a sunny location with protection from winter winds. Fertilize monthly with a 0-10-10 to help produce flowers and fruits. Opuntia, once established, will tolerate as much water as necessary to keep pads from wrinkling. During the winter, diminish watering by half, as the plant will be in dormancy. Established cacti can have pads harvested 6 times per year. Use clean, sharp knives for harvesting. Take pads from mid-morning to midafternoon when the acid content is lowest for best flavor. “Tunas” are ripe at the end of summer. To harvest fruits, wait until the glochids fall off and then gently twist and pull. Ripe fruit should come off easily.
Propagating Opuntia
The cactus is easy to grow from seed but its slow progression means fully sized specimens will take years. For faster production, try growing Opuntia cacti from pads. Cut a pad that is at least 6 months old and allow the cut end to dry out a bit or callus. If you wish, dip the end in Bordeaux mix or brush on an anti-fungal dust. Make a mixture of equal parts sand or pumice and soil. Settle the pad an inch or so deep into this mixture with rocks or stakes around to hold it upright. Do not water until the pad has sent out roots, usually in a month. Then water the plant but let it dry out between successive waterings. Your new plant will flower and set fruit during the first year. Limit the number of pads you take from the plant for at least a year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The Ocotillo is native to the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts. These spectacular plants grow in open stony, arid areas and are notable for their bright red flowers and whip-like stems. Wild ocotillo is also known as candlewood, slim wood, flaming sword and many other pictorial names. If you’re wondering, “why is my Ocotillo not blooming,” read on for some possible reasons and solutions to make this desert wonder fully flower.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you’ve visited northern Mexico or the southwestern corner of the United States, you’ve likely seen ocotillo. Dramatic plants with statuesque, whip-like stems, ocotillos are difficult to miss, especially in springtime when the long, thorny canes are tipped with spikes of fiery red, tube-shaped blooms. Although ocotillo is usually an in-ground plant, there’s no reason you can’t grow ocotillo in containers. If this idea strikes your fancy, read on to learn about growing ocotillo in a pot.
How to Grow Ocotillo Plants in Containers
Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a desert plant that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, bring the ocotillo indoors during fall and winter. The best ocotillo potting soil is a fast-draining potting mix such as a product formulated specifically for cactus and succulents. Plant the ocotillo in a container with at least one drainage hole. Don’t select an overly large container, as excess potting soil is likely to cause this succulent plant to rot. A pot just slightly larger than the root ball is ideal. The plant may become top-heavy, so use a container with a solid, heavy base to prevent tipping.
Caring for Potted Ocotillo Plants
Water lightly as necessary to keep the soil moist – but only until the roots are established. Thereafter, be extremely careful about overwatering ocotillo in containers. Like all succulents, ocotillo is prone to rot in damp soil. As a general rule, water only when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil is dry. Never allow the pot to stand in water. Water indoor ocotillo sparingly when the plant is dormant during the winter months. Watering too little is always better than overwatering, and once a month is usually sufficient. Place the container where the ocotillo is exposed to full sunlight. Without bright sunlight, ocotillo plants tend to become leggy and produce fewer blooms. Feed ocotillo in containers sparingly three times per year, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer during the winter months. Repot ocotillo into a container one size larger whenever the plant is rootbound, usually indicated by roots growing through the drainage hole. Spring is the best time for this task.
How to Grow Ocotillo Plants in Containers
Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a desert plant that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, bring the ocotillo indoors during fall and winter. The best ocotillo potting soil is a fast-draining potting mix such as a product formulated specifically for cactus and succulents. Plant the ocotillo in a container with at least one drainage hole. Don’t select an overly large container, as excess potting soil is likely to cause this succulent plant to rot. A pot just slightly larger than the root ball is ideal. The plant may become top-heavy, so use a container with a solid, heavy base to prevent tipping.
Caring for Potted Ocotillo Plants
Water lightly as necessary to keep the soil moist – but only until the roots are established. Thereafter, be extremely careful about overwatering ocotillo in containers. Like all succulents, ocotillo is prone to rot in damp soil. As a general rule, water only when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil is dry. Never allow the pot to stand in water. Water indoor ocotillo sparingly when the plant is dormant during the winter months. Watering too little is always better than overwatering, and once a month is usually sufficient. Place the container where the ocotillo is exposed to full sunlight. Without bright sunlight, ocotillo plants tend to become leggy and produce fewer blooms. Feed ocotillo in containers sparingly three times per year, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer during the winter months. Repot ocotillo into a container one size larger whenever the plant is rootbound, usually indicated by roots growing through the drainage hole. Spring is the best time for this task.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Bladderwort plants are rootless aquatic, carnivorous plants usually found in shallow ponds, lakes, ditches, marshes and slow-moving streams and rivers. Bladderworts (Utricularia spp.) are rootless plants with long, leafless stems that extend prominently above the water. Through the summer, the stems are topped by bright yellow to purple flowers. If you’re interested in growing bladderworts, or if you’re more concerned with bladderwort control, keep reading for more bladderwort information.
Interesting Bladderwort Information
The bladderwort family includes about 200 species, but only about 50 exist in the United States. Although the visible stems are bare, the plants have small, underwater leaves that resemble rubbery bladders. The bladders are equipped with tiny hairs that are triggered by small insects, like mosquito larvae and water fleas. The trigger opens a “trap door” that lures the creatures with a sweet, slimy substance. Once the creatures are lured into the trap, they are eaten and digested by the plant. The submerged portions of bladderwort plants provide critical habitat and food for a variety of small aquatic creatures. The plants are eaten by a huge number of water dwellers, including fish, ducks, reptiles, turtles, deer, frogs and toads. The flowers are pollinated by small insects such as flies and bees.
Bladderwort Control
The presence of bladderwort plants indicates a healthy aquatic environment. However, the plant is rambunctious and can become invasive in certain conditions. When this happens, the plants can choke out native plants and alter the natural balance of chemicals in the water. The large mats, measuring as much as 7 feet across, present problems for boaters and other recreationists. The environmentally friendly way of bladderwort control involves hand pulling the plant, or removing plants with an aquatic weed rake or weed cutter. It’s best to remove smaller patches, and it’s typical for plants to regrow from the roots. Grass carp, which like to dine on bladderwort, often do a good job at keeping the plant in check, but be sure the fish are permitted in your area. Be patient; you probably won’t notice much benefit until the second season. Check the regulations in your state if the problem is so severe that you are considering chemical control, because most states maintain tight control over use of herbicides in aquatic environments. You may need a permit, or you may be required to hire a licensed person.
Growing Bladderworts
If you want to cultivate bladderwort plants, you can dig up and transplant portions of mature plants in spring or shake dry flowers over a small dish or paper plate to remove the tiny seeds. Bladderwort plants reseed easily, but remember its considerable invasive potential. You can also grow bladderwort plants indoors as tropical houseplants. The plants need at least four hours of bright sunlight and prefer another four hours of indirect or filtered light every day. Plant bladderwort in one part perlite and one part peat, and no potting soil. Set the container in a dish of mineral-free water.
Interesting Bladderwort Information
The bladderwort family includes about 200 species, but only about 50 exist in the United States. Although the visible stems are bare, the plants have small, underwater leaves that resemble rubbery bladders. The bladders are equipped with tiny hairs that are triggered by small insects, like mosquito larvae and water fleas. The trigger opens a “trap door” that lures the creatures with a sweet, slimy substance. Once the creatures are lured into the trap, they are eaten and digested by the plant. The submerged portions of bladderwort plants provide critical habitat and food for a variety of small aquatic creatures. The plants are eaten by a huge number of water dwellers, including fish, ducks, reptiles, turtles, deer, frogs and toads. The flowers are pollinated by small insects such as flies and bees.
Bladderwort Control
The presence of bladderwort plants indicates a healthy aquatic environment. However, the plant is rambunctious and can become invasive in certain conditions. When this happens, the plants can choke out native plants and alter the natural balance of chemicals in the water. The large mats, measuring as much as 7 feet across, present problems for boaters and other recreationists. The environmentally friendly way of bladderwort control involves hand pulling the plant, or removing plants with an aquatic weed rake or weed cutter. It’s best to remove smaller patches, and it’s typical for plants to regrow from the roots. Grass carp, which like to dine on bladderwort, often do a good job at keeping the plant in check, but be sure the fish are permitted in your area. Be patient; you probably won’t notice much benefit until the second season. Check the regulations in your state if the problem is so severe that you are considering chemical control, because most states maintain tight control over use of herbicides in aquatic environments. You may need a permit, or you may be required to hire a licensed person.
Growing Bladderworts
If you want to cultivate bladderwort plants, you can dig up and transplant portions of mature plants in spring or shake dry flowers over a small dish or paper plate to remove the tiny seeds. Bladderwort plants reseed easily, but remember its considerable invasive potential. You can also grow bladderwort plants indoors as tropical houseplants. The plants need at least four hours of bright sunlight and prefer another four hours of indirect or filtered light every day. Plant bladderwort in one part perlite and one part peat, and no potting soil. Set the container in a dish of mineral-free water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) is a spreading, ground-hugging plant with petite, round leaves that emit a powerful, minty aroma when bruised. Also known as creeping mint, Corsican mint plants, which spread by narrow stems that take root as they grow, are well suited for filling in around stepping stones or pavers, but aren’t sturdy enough for heavy foot traffic. Read on to learn more about Corsican mint in gardens.
Growing Corsican Mint
Corsican mint plants tolerate full or partial sunlight. Nearly any type of moist, well-drained soil is suitable. Keep in mind that, like most mint plants, Corsican mint self-seeds readily and can be somewhat aggressive. This plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. It freezes in colder climates but usually self-seeds in spring.
Using Corsican Mint
In addition to its uses as a groundcover in the garden, Corsican mint is valuable culinary plant and great for containers. Snip the leaves to flavor hot and cold drinks, ice cream and baked goods.
Growing Corsican Mint Indoors
Corsican mint is easily grown indoors. Use a lightweight, well-drained potting mix and be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the mint where it receives morning sunlight, but where it is protected from intense light and heat. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil moist, but decrease watering during the winter months, allowing the soil to dry slightly.
Caring for Corsican Mint
Corsican mint can be somewhat finicky, especially when it comes to irrigation. These plants don’t tolerate drought, which means the soil should be kept consistently moist but not soggy. Fertilize Corsican mint every spring using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This plant is a light feeder, so avoid over-fertilizing. Thin the plant regularly and avoid overcrowding, as mint plants require plenty of air circulation. Protect Corsican mint plants with a light covering of mulch if you live in a climate where winter freezes are possible. The plant is able to tolerate light frosts without protection.
Growing Corsican Mint
Corsican mint plants tolerate full or partial sunlight. Nearly any type of moist, well-drained soil is suitable. Keep in mind that, like most mint plants, Corsican mint self-seeds readily and can be somewhat aggressive. This plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. It freezes in colder climates but usually self-seeds in spring.
Using Corsican Mint
In addition to its uses as a groundcover in the garden, Corsican mint is valuable culinary plant and great for containers. Snip the leaves to flavor hot and cold drinks, ice cream and baked goods.
Growing Corsican Mint Indoors
Corsican mint is easily grown indoors. Use a lightweight, well-drained potting mix and be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the mint where it receives morning sunlight, but where it is protected from intense light and heat. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil moist, but decrease watering during the winter months, allowing the soil to dry slightly.
Caring for Corsican Mint
Corsican mint can be somewhat finicky, especially when it comes to irrigation. These plants don’t tolerate drought, which means the soil should be kept consistently moist but not soggy. Fertilize Corsican mint every spring using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This plant is a light feeder, so avoid over-fertilizing. Thin the plant regularly and avoid overcrowding, as mint plants require plenty of air circulation. Protect Corsican mint plants with a light covering of mulch if you live in a climate where winter freezes are possible. The plant is able to tolerate light frosts without protection.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill weed is an essential flavoring for pickling. The feathery, fresh young leaves add a delicate flavor to fish, potatoes and sauces and yield thick stems at maturity. The plant bolts in high heat and produces umbrella-shaped flower appendages topped with hard little seeds. The herb literally grows “like a weed,” which is the genesis of the name dill weed. Learn how to harvest dill and how to store dill weed to keep the delicate flavor around all year.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is an easy to grow herb cultivated for culinary purposes. While dill is an annual, it readily self-sows and will generally make a return the successive spring. Every part of dill, the stems, leaves, flowers and even the seeds are edible. So what special care does dill need, if any? Should you prune dill? If so, does it make for more bushy herb plants? Keep reading to find out if you should prune dill and, if so, how to trim a dill plant.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping savory in gardens are compact, fragrant plants at home in herb gardens or along borders or pathways. These easy-to-grow herbs are also well suited for containers or window boxes where the trailing stems can cascade over the edges. At only 2 to 4 inches tall, creeping savory plants make ideal ground covers. This hardy little herb is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read to learn about growing creeping savory in your own garden.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Given the right conditions, rosemary plants thrive, eventually reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet. They grow out as well as up, sending out stems that seem determined to explore their surroundings and invade the space of adjacent plants. If your rosemary plant has grown out of control, it’s time to take drastic action. Rejuvenation pruning of rosemary may be needed.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulents are a diverse form of plants that includes cacti and other moisture-storing specimens. Graptopetalum ghost plant develops a rosette shape on stems which may trail or hang. As with most plants in this group, water needs are little and exposure is important. Ghost flower plant care hinges on providing a natural environment that mimics the succulent’s native habitat. Tips on how to grow a Graptopetalum will ensure your ghost plant is healthy and enjoyable for many years.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
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