文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a species of small, beautiful tree native to Asia that has naturalized in the Deep South of the United States. So often used in landscaping is Lagerstroemia indica that as you travel around some areas of the country, that you will see its presence in almost every yard. Though certainly not unique, its common use is a testament to its stunning blossoms, peeling bark, and attractive fall foliage that gives the crepe myrtle unrivaled all-season interest.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月27日
Collards are a member of the Brassicaceae family. They are grown for their leaves, which are cooked much like kale. This cooking green is most often associated with Southern U.S. cooking. Collard greens are native to the eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor, but the plants are easily grown in most U.S. climates.
Like kale, collards are non-head forming cabbages. Collards and kale are quite similar genetically, but breeding and cultivating over the years has produced plants with different textures and flavor. Collard leaves are smooth and almost waxy, with pronounced veining. They are quite large, with a bright to dark green color, and the stems are very fibrous and tough. Collards also tend to have a stronger and more bitter flavor than kale. True to the cruciferous family, collard flowers have four yellow petals in the form of a cross. The flowers are edible and have a sweet, cabbage-like flavor.
Cooking greens are some of the most nutritious vegetables you can eat, and collard greens, in particular, are packed with vitamins A, C, and K; soluble fiber; calcium; folate; manganese; and tryptophan—and less than 50 calories per serving. Eating your collards even helps to lower your bad cholesterol.
Collards can be planted in early spring for early summer harvest, or in late/summer or early fall for a late fall harvest. Most varieties are ready to harvest in 55 to 75 days.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea L. subsp. acephala
Common Name Collard greens, collards, tree cabbage
Plant Type Biennial vegetable; usually grown as an annual
Size 20 to 36 in. tall; 24- to 36-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.5 to 6.8)
Native Area Mediterranean and Asia Minor
Hardiness Zones 6 to 11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
How to Plant Collard Greens
You can start collard plants from seed or nursery transplants. Start seeds outdoors about two weeks before your last spring frost date or get a head start by sowing seeds indoors, four to six weeks earlier, and planting the seedlings right around your last frost date—these plants can readily handle chilly spring weather. For a fall harvest in cool climates, plant in mid-summer, about six to eight weeks before the first fall frost date. With protection, you can harvest collard greens well into winter.
Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 in. deep. Collards are large, open plants. You can space them 18 to 24 inches apart or plant them more thickly, then thin and eat young plants until you reach the desired spacing.
In USDA hardiness zones 8 and higher, you will get your tastiest crop by planting in the fall and harvesting throughout the winter. Cool weather sweetens most cooking greens and collard greens are no exceptions.
Collard Green Care
Light
Collard greens prefer to grow in full sun but will tolerate some shade. A shady location may slow bolting in warmer climates.
Soil
Collards prefer rich soil with lots of organic material, with a pH level of 6.5 to 6.8.
Water
Keep the plants well-watered and harvest regularly to keep them sending out new leaves. These plants need 1 to 1 1/2 inch of water weekly. Mulch will keep the soil moist and the leaves clean.
Temperature and Humidity
Collard greens are a cool-season vegetable that will usually go to seed (bolt) when the weather grows warm in mid-summer. For this reason, they are often planted early or late rather than for mid-summer harvest. Collard greens can take a light frost, but you will lose your plants if the temperatures stay below freezing for long periods. To continue harvesting in cold areas, protect your collard greens with some type of hoop house or cold frame. Collards do equally well in humid and dry conditions, provided the soil is kept moist.
Fertilizer
Side dress with composted manure or a slow-release fertilizer every four to six weeks to keep the plants growing through repeated harvests.
Varieties
Collards are often grouped by two growing characteristics: those that are loose-leaf and those that form a loose head. Traditional varieties, such as 'Vates' and 'Georgia', form loose, open plants. Some of the newer hybrids, such as 'Morris Heading', grow quickly and curve in on themselves, forming a loose head and a more compact plant. Loose heading varieties are good choices if you want to harvest the whole plant at once. If you want a steady supply of leaves, opt for a loose-leaf variety.
'Champion' is a 'Vates' hybrid, with cabbage-like leaves that store well. Good for smaller gardens, this variety matures in 60 days.
'Flash' is a smallish plant but a very vigorous grower. The leaves are smooth and sweet; the plant matures in 55 days.
'Georgia' is a large plant with tender, waxy leaves. Heat tolerant and slow to bolt, it matures in 75 days.
'Green Glaze' has glossy, dark green leaves that are less often damaged by caterpillars. It matures in 75 days.
' Vates' is a compact plant with very smooth leaves. It matures in 75 days.
Harvest
You can harvest leaves as needed or cut the entire plant. If you cut the entire plant while it is still young, the crown should resprout for at least one additional harvest. Harvest leaves while they are smooth and firm; young, tender leaves will be the least bitter. You can store them in damp paper towels for about three to four days, but the longer they are stored, the more bitter they become. It's better to harvest as needed.
Collard greens are very versatile. You can try the traditional method of boiling them, but you can also leave them with some substance and either lightly steam, sauté, or braise them.
There's good reasoning behind the phrase "mess o' greens." One pound of uncooked leaves yields about a 1/2 cup of cooked greens. Some favorite collard green recipes include:
Southern Style Collards
Raw Collard Greens with Ginger
Sautéed Collards and Kale
Propagating
Collards are biennial, so plants will need to be overwintered if you plan to save seed since they will not flower until the second year. After the plants flower, allow the seed pods to dry out until they are very hard and brittle, then collect the pods between paper towels and apply pressure to break the pods and collect the seeds.
Common Pests and Diseases
Collards are affected by the same diseases and pests as other members of the cabbage family, although their tough leaves offer some protection.
Be on the lookout for aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbage worms, cabbage root maggots, flea beetles, and even slugs. Whenever possible, use a control method such as citrus oil or insecticidal soap.
Common diseases include blackleg, black rot, clubroot, and cabbage yellows. Diseases tend to build up in the soil, so do not plant collards in the same spot every year. Rotate all your cruciferous vegetables and if you have a disease or pest problems, don't leave them standing through the winter.
Like kale, collards are non-head forming cabbages. Collards and kale are quite similar genetically, but breeding and cultivating over the years has produced plants with different textures and flavor. Collard leaves are smooth and almost waxy, with pronounced veining. They are quite large, with a bright to dark green color, and the stems are very fibrous and tough. Collards also tend to have a stronger and more bitter flavor than kale. True to the cruciferous family, collard flowers have four yellow petals in the form of a cross. The flowers are edible and have a sweet, cabbage-like flavor.
Cooking greens are some of the most nutritious vegetables you can eat, and collard greens, in particular, are packed with vitamins A, C, and K; soluble fiber; calcium; folate; manganese; and tryptophan—and less than 50 calories per serving. Eating your collards even helps to lower your bad cholesterol.
Collards can be planted in early spring for early summer harvest, or in late/summer or early fall for a late fall harvest. Most varieties are ready to harvest in 55 to 75 days.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea L. subsp. acephala
Common Name Collard greens, collards, tree cabbage
Plant Type Biennial vegetable; usually grown as an annual
Size 20 to 36 in. tall; 24- to 36-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.5 to 6.8)
Native Area Mediterranean and Asia Minor
Hardiness Zones 6 to 11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
How to Plant Collard Greens
You can start collard plants from seed or nursery transplants. Start seeds outdoors about two weeks before your last spring frost date or get a head start by sowing seeds indoors, four to six weeks earlier, and planting the seedlings right around your last frost date—these plants can readily handle chilly spring weather. For a fall harvest in cool climates, plant in mid-summer, about six to eight weeks before the first fall frost date. With protection, you can harvest collard greens well into winter.
Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 in. deep. Collards are large, open plants. You can space them 18 to 24 inches apart or plant them more thickly, then thin and eat young plants until you reach the desired spacing.
In USDA hardiness zones 8 and higher, you will get your tastiest crop by planting in the fall and harvesting throughout the winter. Cool weather sweetens most cooking greens and collard greens are no exceptions.
Collard Green Care
Light
Collard greens prefer to grow in full sun but will tolerate some shade. A shady location may slow bolting in warmer climates.
Soil
Collards prefer rich soil with lots of organic material, with a pH level of 6.5 to 6.8.
Water
Keep the plants well-watered and harvest regularly to keep them sending out new leaves. These plants need 1 to 1 1/2 inch of water weekly. Mulch will keep the soil moist and the leaves clean.
Temperature and Humidity
Collard greens are a cool-season vegetable that will usually go to seed (bolt) when the weather grows warm in mid-summer. For this reason, they are often planted early or late rather than for mid-summer harvest. Collard greens can take a light frost, but you will lose your plants if the temperatures stay below freezing for long periods. To continue harvesting in cold areas, protect your collard greens with some type of hoop house or cold frame. Collards do equally well in humid and dry conditions, provided the soil is kept moist.
Fertilizer
Side dress with composted manure or a slow-release fertilizer every four to six weeks to keep the plants growing through repeated harvests.
Varieties
Collards are often grouped by two growing characteristics: those that are loose-leaf and those that form a loose head. Traditional varieties, such as 'Vates' and 'Georgia', form loose, open plants. Some of the newer hybrids, such as 'Morris Heading', grow quickly and curve in on themselves, forming a loose head and a more compact plant. Loose heading varieties are good choices if you want to harvest the whole plant at once. If you want a steady supply of leaves, opt for a loose-leaf variety.
'Champion' is a 'Vates' hybrid, with cabbage-like leaves that store well. Good for smaller gardens, this variety matures in 60 days.
'Flash' is a smallish plant but a very vigorous grower. The leaves are smooth and sweet; the plant matures in 55 days.
'Georgia' is a large plant with tender, waxy leaves. Heat tolerant and slow to bolt, it matures in 75 days.
'Green Glaze' has glossy, dark green leaves that are less often damaged by caterpillars. It matures in 75 days.
' Vates' is a compact plant with very smooth leaves. It matures in 75 days.
Harvest
You can harvest leaves as needed or cut the entire plant. If you cut the entire plant while it is still young, the crown should resprout for at least one additional harvest. Harvest leaves while they are smooth and firm; young, tender leaves will be the least bitter. You can store them in damp paper towels for about three to four days, but the longer they are stored, the more bitter they become. It's better to harvest as needed.
Collard greens are very versatile. You can try the traditional method of boiling them, but you can also leave them with some substance and either lightly steam, sauté, or braise them.
There's good reasoning behind the phrase "mess o' greens." One pound of uncooked leaves yields about a 1/2 cup of cooked greens. Some favorite collard green recipes include:
Southern Style Collards
Raw Collard Greens with Ginger
Sautéed Collards and Kale
Propagating
Collards are biennial, so plants will need to be overwintered if you plan to save seed since they will not flower until the second year. After the plants flower, allow the seed pods to dry out until they are very hard and brittle, then collect the pods between paper towels and apply pressure to break the pods and collect the seeds.
Common Pests and Diseases
Collards are affected by the same diseases and pests as other members of the cabbage family, although their tough leaves offer some protection.
Be on the lookout for aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbage worms, cabbage root maggots, flea beetles, and even slugs. Whenever possible, use a control method such as citrus oil or insecticidal soap.
Common diseases include blackleg, black rot, clubroot, and cabbage yellows. Diseases tend to build up in the soil, so do not plant collards in the same spot every year. Rotate all your cruciferous vegetables and if you have a disease or pest problems, don't leave them standing through the winter.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月11日
Climbing hydrangea (hydrangea anomala petiolaris) provides all of the beauty of a traditional hydrangea bush, but in a trailing variety used to add visual interest to walls or fences. Native to Asia, this hydrangea species yields flowering deciduous vines and is best planted or transplanted in the late spring. A true climber, hydrangea anomala petiolaris contains holdfasts (suckers) on its branches, allowing it to scale structures without the use of a trellis.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月24日
If you are looking for a plant that boasts dramatic, vibrant flowers, you may want to consider tropical hibiscus. The trumpet-shaped blooms are typically 3 to 8 inches in diameter with dramatic protruding stamens.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月22日
With their glossy emerald leaves and petite shape, China doll plants make for an attractive addition to any indoor home garden collection. Native to the subtropical mountainous areas of Asia, China doll plants are evergreen trees that are a part of the Bignoniaceae family. When cared for indoors, they are moderately fast growers and can reach heights between 4 and 6 feet at maturity.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月15日
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月25日
Hailing from Southeast Asia, Amazon elephant's ear is a popular tropical plant that is sometimes also referred to as African mask. It's a hybrid varietal that makes a striking and beautiful houseplant and is typically sold as such. It can be purchased, planted, and cared for year-round in an indoor environment.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月31日
Camellia is a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. They are found in eastern and southern Asia, from the Himalayas east to Japan and Indonesia. There are 100–300 described species, with some controversy over the exact number. There are also around 3,000 hybrids. The genus was named by Linnaeus after the Jesuit botanist Georg Joseph Kamel, who worked in the Philippines and described a species of camellia (although Linnaeus did not refer to Kamel's account when discussing the genus). Camellias are famous throughout East Asia; they are known as cháhuā (茶花, 'tea flower') in Chinese, tsubaki (椿) in Japanese, dongbaek-kkot (동백꽃) in Korean, and as hoa trà or hoa chè in Vietnamese.
Of economic importance in East Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent, leaves of C. sinensis are processed to create the popular beverage tea. The ornamental C. japonica, C. sasanqua and their hybrids are the source of hundreds of garden cultivars. C. oleifera produces tea seed oil, used in cooking and cosmetics.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees up to 20 m (66 ft) tall. Their leaves are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, and usually glossy. Their flowers are usually large and conspicuous, one to 12 cm in diameter, with five to nine petals in naturally occurring species of camellias. The colors of the flowers vary from white through pink colors to red; truly yellow flowers are found only in South China and Vietnam. Tea varieties are always white-flowered. Camellia flowers throughout the genus are characterized by a dense bouquet of conspicuous yellow stamens, often contrasting with the petal colors.The so-called "fruit" of camellia plants is a dry capsule, sometimes subdivided in up to five compartments, each compartment containing up to eight seeds.
The various species of camellia plants are generally well-adapted to acid soils rich in humus, and most species do not grow well on chalky soil or other calcium-rich soils. Most species of camellias also require a large amount of water, either from natural rainfall or from irrigation, and the plants will not tolerate droughts. However, some of the more unusual camellias – typically species from karst soils in Vietnam – can grow without too much water.
Camellia plants usually have a rapid growth rate. Typically they will grow about 30 cm per year until mature – though this does vary depending on their variety and geographical location.
Camellia plants are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species; see List of Lepidoptera that feed on Camellia. Leaves of the Japanese camellia (C. japonica) are susceptible to the fungal parasite Mycelia sterile.
Camellia sinensis, the tea plant, is of major commercial importance because tea is made from its leaves. The species C. sinensis is the product of many generations of selective breeding in order to bring out qualities considered desirable for tea. However, many other camellias can be used to produce a similar beverage. For example, in some parts of Japan, tea made from C. sasanqua leaves is popular.
Tea oil is a sweet seasoning and cooking oil made by pressing the seeds of C. oleifera, C. japonica, and to a lesser extent other species such as C. crapnelliana, C. reticulata, C. sasanqua and C. sinensis. Relatively little-known outside East Asia, it is the most important cooking oil for hundreds of millions of people, particularly in southern China.
Camellia oil is commonly used to clean and protect the blades of cutting instruments.
Camellia oil pressed from seeds of C. japonica, also called tsubaki oil or tsubaki-abura (椿油) in Japanese, has been traditionally used in Japan for hair care.
Of economic importance in East Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent, leaves of C. sinensis are processed to create the popular beverage tea. The ornamental C. japonica, C. sasanqua and their hybrids are the source of hundreds of garden cultivars. C. oleifera produces tea seed oil, used in cooking and cosmetics.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees up to 20 m (66 ft) tall. Their leaves are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, and usually glossy. Their flowers are usually large and conspicuous, one to 12 cm in diameter, with five to nine petals in naturally occurring species of camellias. The colors of the flowers vary from white through pink colors to red; truly yellow flowers are found only in South China and Vietnam. Tea varieties are always white-flowered. Camellia flowers throughout the genus are characterized by a dense bouquet of conspicuous yellow stamens, often contrasting with the petal colors.The so-called "fruit" of camellia plants is a dry capsule, sometimes subdivided in up to five compartments, each compartment containing up to eight seeds.
The various species of camellia plants are generally well-adapted to acid soils rich in humus, and most species do not grow well on chalky soil or other calcium-rich soils. Most species of camellias also require a large amount of water, either from natural rainfall or from irrigation, and the plants will not tolerate droughts. However, some of the more unusual camellias – typically species from karst soils in Vietnam – can grow without too much water.
Camellia plants usually have a rapid growth rate. Typically they will grow about 30 cm per year until mature – though this does vary depending on their variety and geographical location.
Camellia plants are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species; see List of Lepidoptera that feed on Camellia. Leaves of the Japanese camellia (C. japonica) are susceptible to the fungal parasite Mycelia sterile.
Camellia sinensis, the tea plant, is of major commercial importance because tea is made from its leaves. The species C. sinensis is the product of many generations of selective breeding in order to bring out qualities considered desirable for tea. However, many other camellias can be used to produce a similar beverage. For example, in some parts of Japan, tea made from C. sasanqua leaves is popular.
Tea oil is a sweet seasoning and cooking oil made by pressing the seeds of C. oleifera, C. japonica, and to a lesser extent other species such as C. crapnelliana, C. reticulata, C. sasanqua and C. sinensis. Relatively little-known outside East Asia, it is the most important cooking oil for hundreds of millions of people, particularly in southern China.
Camellia oil is commonly used to clean and protect the blades of cutting instruments.
Camellia oil pressed from seeds of C. japonica, also called tsubaki oil or tsubaki-abura (椿油) in Japanese, has been traditionally used in Japan for hair care.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年05月12日
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is a leafy green flowering plant native to central and western Asia. It is of the order Caryophyllales, family Amaranthaceae, subfamily Chenopodioideae. Its leaves are a common edible vegetable consumed either fresh, or after storage using preservation techniques by canning, freezing, or dehydration. It may be eaten cooked or raw, and the taste differs considerably; the high oxalate content may be reduced by steaming.
It is an annual plant (rarely biennial), growing as tall as 30 cm (1 ft). Spinach may overwinter in temperate regions. The leaves are alternate, simple, ovate to triangular, and very variable in size: 2–30 cm (1–12 in) long and 1–15 cm (0.4–5.9 in) broad, with larger leaves at the base of the plant and small leaves higher on the flowering stem. The flowers are inconspicuous, yellow-green, 3–4 mm (0.1–0.2 in) in diameter, and mature into a small, hard, dry, lumpy fruit cluster 5–10 mm (0.2–0.4 in) across containing several seeds.
*Nutrients*
Raw spinach is 91% water, 4% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat. In a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving providing only 23 calories, spinach has a high nutritional value, especially when fresh, frozen, steamed, or quickly boiled. It is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, magnesium, manganese, iron and folate. Spinach is a good source (10-19% of DV) of the B vitamins riboflavin and vitamin B6, vitamin E, calcium, potassium, and dietary fiber. Although spinach is touted as being high in iron and calcium content, and is often served and consumed in its raw form, raw spinach contains high levels of oxalates, which block absorption of calcium and iron in the stomach and small intestine. Spinach cooked in several changes of water has much lower levels of oxalates and is better digested and its nutrients absorbed more completely.
-Iron
Spinach, along with other green, leafy vegetables, contains an appreciable amount of iron attaining 21% of the Daily Value in a 100 g (3.5 oz) amount of raw spinach. For example, the United States Department of Agriculture states that a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of cooked spinach contains 3.57 mg of iron, whereas a 100 g (3.5 oz) ground hamburger patty contains 1.93 mg of iron. However, spinach contains iron absorption-inhibiting substances, including high levels of oxalate, which can bind to the iron to form ferrous oxalate and render much of the iron in spinach unusable by the body.In addition to preventing absorption and use, high levels of oxalates remove iron from the body.
-Calcium
Spinach also has a moderate calcium content which can be affected by oxalates, decreasing its absorption. The calcium in spinach is among the least bioavailable of food calcium sources. By way of comparison, the human body can absorb about half of the calcium present in broccoli, yet only around 5% of the calcium in spinach.
-Vitamin K
A quantity of 3.5 ounces of spinach contains over four times the recommended daily intake of vitamin K. For this reason, individuals taking the anticoagulant warfarin – which acts by inhibiting vitamin K – are instructed to minimize consumption of spinach (as well as other dark green leafy vegetables) to avoid blunting the effect of warfarin.
It is an annual plant (rarely biennial), growing as tall as 30 cm (1 ft). Spinach may overwinter in temperate regions. The leaves are alternate, simple, ovate to triangular, and very variable in size: 2–30 cm (1–12 in) long and 1–15 cm (0.4–5.9 in) broad, with larger leaves at the base of the plant and small leaves higher on the flowering stem. The flowers are inconspicuous, yellow-green, 3–4 mm (0.1–0.2 in) in diameter, and mature into a small, hard, dry, lumpy fruit cluster 5–10 mm (0.2–0.4 in) across containing several seeds.
*Nutrients*
Raw spinach is 91% water, 4% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat. In a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving providing only 23 calories, spinach has a high nutritional value, especially when fresh, frozen, steamed, or quickly boiled. It is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, magnesium, manganese, iron and folate. Spinach is a good source (10-19% of DV) of the B vitamins riboflavin and vitamin B6, vitamin E, calcium, potassium, and dietary fiber. Although spinach is touted as being high in iron and calcium content, and is often served and consumed in its raw form, raw spinach contains high levels of oxalates, which block absorption of calcium and iron in the stomach and small intestine. Spinach cooked in several changes of water has much lower levels of oxalates and is better digested and its nutrients absorbed more completely.
-Iron
Spinach, along with other green, leafy vegetables, contains an appreciable amount of iron attaining 21% of the Daily Value in a 100 g (3.5 oz) amount of raw spinach. For example, the United States Department of Agriculture states that a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of cooked spinach contains 3.57 mg of iron, whereas a 100 g (3.5 oz) ground hamburger patty contains 1.93 mg of iron. However, spinach contains iron absorption-inhibiting substances, including high levels of oxalate, which can bind to the iron to form ferrous oxalate and render much of the iron in spinach unusable by the body.In addition to preventing absorption and use, high levels of oxalates remove iron from the body.
-Calcium
Spinach also has a moderate calcium content which can be affected by oxalates, decreasing its absorption. The calcium in spinach is among the least bioavailable of food calcium sources. By way of comparison, the human body can absorb about half of the calcium present in broccoli, yet only around 5% of the calcium in spinach.
-Vitamin K
A quantity of 3.5 ounces of spinach contains over four times the recommended daily intake of vitamin K. For this reason, individuals taking the anticoagulant warfarin – which acts by inhibiting vitamin K – are instructed to minimize consumption of spinach (as well as other dark green leafy vegetables) to avoid blunting the effect of warfarin.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月10日
The soybean or soya bean (Glycine max) is a species of legume native to East Asia, widely grown for its edible bean, which has numerous uses.
Traditional unfermented food uses of soybeans include soy milk, from which tofu and tofu skin are made. Fermented soy foods include soy sauce, fermented bean paste, nattō, and tempeh. Fat-free (defatted) soybean meal is a significant and cheap source of protein for animal feeds and many packaged meals. For example, soybean products, such as textured vegetable protein (TVP), are ingredients in many meat and dairy substitutes.
Soy beans contain significant amounts of phytic acid, dietary minerals and B vitamins. Soy vegetable oil, used in food and industrial applications, is another product of processing the soybean crop. Soybean is the most important protein source for feed farm animals (that in turn yields animal protein for human consumption).
Together, protein and soybean oil content account for 56% of dry soybeans by weight (36% protein and 20% fat, table). The remainder consists of 30% carbohydrates, 9% water and 5% ash (table). Soybeans comprise approximately 8% seed coat or hull, 90% cotyledons and 2% hypocotyl axis or germ.
*Nutrition
100 grams of raw soybeans supply 446 calories and are 9% water, 30% carbohydrates, 20% total fat and 36% protein.
Soybeans are an exceptional source of essential nutrients, providing in a 100 gram serving (raw, for reference) high contents of the Daily Value (DV) especially for protein (36% DV), dietary fiber (37%), iron (121%), manganese (120%), phosphorus (101%) and several B vitamins, including folate (94%) (table). High contents also exist for vitamin K, magnesium, zinc and potassium (table).
For human consumption, soybeans must be cooked with "wet" heat to destroy the trypsin inhibitors (serine protease inhibitors). Raw soybeans, including the immature green form, are toxic to all monogastric animals.
*Protein
Further information: Complete protein, Protein quality, and Soy protein
Most soy protein is a relatively heat-stable storage protein. This heat stability enables soy food products requiring high temperature cooking, such as tofu, soy milk and textured vegetable protein (soy flour) to be made. Soy protein is essentially identical to the protein of other legume seeds and pulses.
Soy is a good source of protein for vegetarians and vegans or for people who want to reduce the amount of meat they eat, according to the US Food and Drug Administration:
Soy protein products can be good substitutes for animal products because, unlike some other beans, soy offers a 'complete' protein profile. ... Soy protein products can replace animal-based foods—which also have complete proteins but tend to contain more fat, especially saturated fat—without requiring major adjustments elsewhere in the diet.
The Protein Digestibility Corrected Amino Acid Score (PDCAAS) of soy protein is the nutritional equivalent of meat, eggs, and casein for human growth and health. Soybean protein isolate has a biological value of 74, whole soybeans 96, soybean milk 91, and eggs 97.
Traditional unfermented food uses of soybeans include soy milk, from which tofu and tofu skin are made. Fermented soy foods include soy sauce, fermented bean paste, nattō, and tempeh. Fat-free (defatted) soybean meal is a significant and cheap source of protein for animal feeds and many packaged meals. For example, soybean products, such as textured vegetable protein (TVP), are ingredients in many meat and dairy substitutes.
Soy beans contain significant amounts of phytic acid, dietary minerals and B vitamins. Soy vegetable oil, used in food and industrial applications, is another product of processing the soybean crop. Soybean is the most important protein source for feed farm animals (that in turn yields animal protein for human consumption).
Together, protein and soybean oil content account for 56% of dry soybeans by weight (36% protein and 20% fat, table). The remainder consists of 30% carbohydrates, 9% water and 5% ash (table). Soybeans comprise approximately 8% seed coat or hull, 90% cotyledons and 2% hypocotyl axis or germ.
*Nutrition
100 grams of raw soybeans supply 446 calories and are 9% water, 30% carbohydrates, 20% total fat and 36% protein.
Soybeans are an exceptional source of essential nutrients, providing in a 100 gram serving (raw, for reference) high contents of the Daily Value (DV) especially for protein (36% DV), dietary fiber (37%), iron (121%), manganese (120%), phosphorus (101%) and several B vitamins, including folate (94%) (table). High contents also exist for vitamin K, magnesium, zinc and potassium (table).
For human consumption, soybeans must be cooked with "wet" heat to destroy the trypsin inhibitors (serine protease inhibitors). Raw soybeans, including the immature green form, are toxic to all monogastric animals.
*Protein
Further information: Complete protein, Protein quality, and Soy protein
Most soy protein is a relatively heat-stable storage protein. This heat stability enables soy food products requiring high temperature cooking, such as tofu, soy milk and textured vegetable protein (soy flour) to be made. Soy protein is essentially identical to the protein of other legume seeds and pulses.
Soy is a good source of protein for vegetarians and vegans or for people who want to reduce the amount of meat they eat, according to the US Food and Drug Administration:
Soy protein products can be good substitutes for animal products because, unlike some other beans, soy offers a 'complete' protein profile. ... Soy protein products can replace animal-based foods—which also have complete proteins but tend to contain more fat, especially saturated fat—without requiring major adjustments elsewhere in the diet.
The Protein Digestibility Corrected Amino Acid Score (PDCAAS) of soy protein is the nutritional equivalent of meat, eggs, and casein for human growth and health. Soybean protein isolate has a biological value of 74, whole soybeans 96, soybean milk 91, and eggs 97.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年04月05日
The peony or paeony is a flowering plant in the genus Paeonia, the only genus in the family Paeoniaceae. Peonies are native to Asia, Europe and Western North America. Scientists differ on the number of species that can be distinguished, ranging from 25 to 40, although the current consensus is 33 known species. The relationships between the species need to be further clarified.
Peonies are among the most popular garden plants in temperate regions. Herbaceous peonies are also sold as cut flowers on a large scale, although generally only available in late spring and early summer. An emerging source of peonies in mid to late summer is the Alaskan market. Unique growing conditions due to long hours of sunlight create availability from Alaska when other sources have completed harvest.
The peony is among the longest-used flowers in Eastern culture. Along with the plum blossom, it is a traditional floral symbol of China, where the Paeonia suffruticosa is called 牡丹 (mǔdān). It is also known as 富貴花 (fùguìhuā) "flower of riches and honour" or 花王 (huawang) "king of the flowers", and is used symbolically in Chinese art. In 1903, the Qing dynasty declared the peony as the national flower. Currently, the Republic of China government in Taiwan designates the plum blossom as the national flower, while the People's Republic of China government has no legally designated national flower. In 1994, the peony was proposed as the national flower after a nationwide poll, but the National People's Congress failed to ratify the selection. In 2003, another selection process was initiated, but no choice has been made to date.
The ancient Chinese city Luoyang has a reputation as a cultivation centre for the peonies. Throughout Chinese history, peonies in Luoyang have been said to be the finest in the country. Dozens of peony exhibitions and shows are still held there annually.
In the Middle Ages, peonies were often painted with their ripe seed-capsules, since it was the seeds, not the flowers, which were medically significant. Ancient superstition dictated that great care be taken not to be seen by a woodpecker while picking the plant's fruit, or the bird might peck out one's eyes.
In 1957, the Indiana General Assembly passed a law to make the peony the state flower of Indiana, a title which it holds to this day. It replaced the zinnia, which had been the state flower since 1931.
Mischievous nymphs were said to hide in the petals of the Peony, giving it the meaning of Shame or Bashfulness in the Language of Flowers. While the peony takes several years to re-establish itself when moved, it blooms annually for decades once it has done so.
Peonies tend to attract ants to the flower buds. This is due to the nectar that forms on the outside of the flower buds, and is not required for the plants' own pollination or other growth. The presence of ants is thought to provide some deterrence to other harmful insects though, so the production of ant-attracting nectar is plausibly a functional adaptation.Peonies are a common subject in tattoos, often used along with koi-fish. The popular use of peonies in Japanese tattoo was inspired by the ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi's illustrations of Suikoden, a classical Chinese novel. His paintings of warrior-heroes covered in pictorial tattoos included lions, tigers, dragons, koi fish, and peonies, among other symbols. The peony became a masculine motif, associated with a devil-may-care attitude and disregard for consequence.
Famous painters of peonies have included Conrad Gessner (ca. 1550) and Auguste Renoir in 1879. Paeonia officinalis can be found in the altar picture of Maria im Rosenhag by Schongauer in the former Dominican Church in Colmar.The Italian Jesuit, painter and architect Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766), who worked at the court of the Qianlong Emperor in the Qing dynasty, painted peonies.
Peonies are among the most popular garden plants in temperate regions. Herbaceous peonies are also sold as cut flowers on a large scale, although generally only available in late spring and early summer. An emerging source of peonies in mid to late summer is the Alaskan market. Unique growing conditions due to long hours of sunlight create availability from Alaska when other sources have completed harvest.
The peony is among the longest-used flowers in Eastern culture. Along with the plum blossom, it is a traditional floral symbol of China, where the Paeonia suffruticosa is called 牡丹 (mǔdān). It is also known as 富貴花 (fùguìhuā) "flower of riches and honour" or 花王 (huawang) "king of the flowers", and is used symbolically in Chinese art. In 1903, the Qing dynasty declared the peony as the national flower. Currently, the Republic of China government in Taiwan designates the plum blossom as the national flower, while the People's Republic of China government has no legally designated national flower. In 1994, the peony was proposed as the national flower after a nationwide poll, but the National People's Congress failed to ratify the selection. In 2003, another selection process was initiated, but no choice has been made to date.
The ancient Chinese city Luoyang has a reputation as a cultivation centre for the peonies. Throughout Chinese history, peonies in Luoyang have been said to be the finest in the country. Dozens of peony exhibitions and shows are still held there annually.
In the Middle Ages, peonies were often painted with their ripe seed-capsules, since it was the seeds, not the flowers, which were medically significant. Ancient superstition dictated that great care be taken not to be seen by a woodpecker while picking the plant's fruit, or the bird might peck out one's eyes.
In 1957, the Indiana General Assembly passed a law to make the peony the state flower of Indiana, a title which it holds to this day. It replaced the zinnia, which had been the state flower since 1931.
Mischievous nymphs were said to hide in the petals of the Peony, giving it the meaning of Shame or Bashfulness in the Language of Flowers. While the peony takes several years to re-establish itself when moved, it blooms annually for decades once it has done so.
Peonies tend to attract ants to the flower buds. This is due to the nectar that forms on the outside of the flower buds, and is not required for the plants' own pollination or other growth. The presence of ants is thought to provide some deterrence to other harmful insects though, so the production of ant-attracting nectar is plausibly a functional adaptation.Peonies are a common subject in tattoos, often used along with koi-fish. The popular use of peonies in Japanese tattoo was inspired by the ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi's illustrations of Suikoden, a classical Chinese novel. His paintings of warrior-heroes covered in pictorial tattoos included lions, tigers, dragons, koi fish, and peonies, among other symbols. The peony became a masculine motif, associated with a devil-may-care attitude and disregard for consequence.
Famous painters of peonies have included Conrad Gessner (ca. 1550) and Auguste Renoir in 1879. Paeonia officinalis can be found in the altar picture of Maria im Rosenhag by Schongauer in the former Dominican Church in Colmar.The Italian Jesuit, painter and architect Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766), who worked at the court of the Qianlong Emperor in the Qing dynasty, painted peonies.
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文章
ritau
2020年03月03日
Hydrangea is a genus of 70–75 species of flowering plants native to Asia and the Americas. By far the greatest species diversity is in eastern Asia, notably Korea, China, and Japan. Most are shrubs 1 to 3 meters tall, but some are small trees, and others lianas reaching up to 30 m (98 ft) by climbing up trees. They can be either deciduous or evergreen, though the widely cultivated temperate species are all deciduous.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
The Hawaiian ti, or Cordyline fruticosa, is a lovely plant, distinctive with dark maroon leaves that emerge from the top of tall canes. It grows naturally not only in the Pacific Islands, but in tropical areas of Asia and Australia, and has become a popular houseplant. Ti plant is a fast grower, and before you know it, it can reach heights of more than 3 feet. Occasional pruning will keep the ti plant healthy, neat, shapely, and within its boundaries.
Step 1
Begin with a pair of sharp garden pruners, which won't be likely to tear the tender tissues of the plant. Clean the pruners with a mixture of one part water to nine parts household bleach. Working with clean shears will prevent bacteria or disease from spreading from plant to plant.
Step 2
Remove brown, yellow, shriveled or distorted leaves as they appear, as the ti plant will attempt to repair the damaged leaves at the expense of the rest of the plant. Dead and diseased leaves can also invite insects and mildew. Groom the ti plant as the need arises to prevent the need for more drastic pruning.
Step 3
Trim the ti plant to control the size if it grows too large, or to maintain the ti's pleasant shape. It's safe to cut the ti plant it back as much as 6 inches from the top of the soil. Hold the stalk steady in one hand and prune the stalk the desired height with sharp garden shears. Although cutting down to 6 inches may seem drastic, healthy new shoots will grow from the remaining shoot.
Step 1
Begin with a pair of sharp garden pruners, which won't be likely to tear the tender tissues of the plant. Clean the pruners with a mixture of one part water to nine parts household bleach. Working with clean shears will prevent bacteria or disease from spreading from plant to plant.
Step 2
Remove brown, yellow, shriveled or distorted leaves as they appear, as the ti plant will attempt to repair the damaged leaves at the expense of the rest of the plant. Dead and diseased leaves can also invite insects and mildew. Groom the ti plant as the need arises to prevent the need for more drastic pruning.
Step 3
Trim the ti plant to control the size if it grows too large, or to maintain the ti's pleasant shape. It's safe to cut the ti plant it back as much as 6 inches from the top of the soil. Hold the stalk steady in one hand and prune the stalk the desired height with sharp garden shears. Although cutting down to 6 inches may seem drastic, healthy new shoots will grow from the remaining shoot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon spp.) is the common name for several species of grasses in the genus Cymbopogon. These grasses are native to tropical parts of Asia, Africa and Australia, and they are generally frost-tender and do not survive winters in cold climates.
Annuals vs. Perennials
The term annual refers to those plants that complete their entire life cycles within a single growing season. Generally, annuals grow from a seed, produce their own flowers and seeds, and die in a single season, and new plants grow the following year from the seeds produced by the parent plant. Perennial plants, in contrast, survive through multiple growing seasons; although their reproductive cycles might be completed in one growing season, the parent plants will continue to grow and reproduce in subsequent seasons.
The year-after-year survival of perennial plants, however, is usually limited by their relative tolerance or intolerance of cold temperatures, and in climates where winters are colder than a given species will tolerate, the plant will usually die at the end of the growing season when the weather turns cold. When they're grown in climates where they're not winter-hardy, some perennials plants are treated as annuals by gardeners, who replant new plants each spring.
Sometimes when a perennial is grown in climates that fall just outside the climate in which the plant is fully winter-hardy, cold temperatures will cause the foliage and above-ground structure of the plant to die back, but the plant's root system will survive. In this case, the plant may survive the winter and begin to grow new foliage in the spring.
Lemongrass
The Cymbopogon species most commonly grown as the garden ornamental called lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a perennial, but it is sensitive to frost and below-freezing temperatures, and in the United States, it is fully winter hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. In these zones, the grass, which typically grows to a height of between 2 and 4 feet, will remain green throughout the winter.
In moderately cooler zones, lemongrass may survive the winter and return in the spring even though the plant's leaves die back. Lemongrass roots are typically hardy in USDA zones 8b and 9, and in these zones, the plant may return year after year.
In zones colder than USDA zone 8b, lemongrass will likely not survive the winter and must be grown in the garden as an annual. Alternatively, the plant may be grown in a container and taken indoors when temperatures begin to fall and over-wintered in a sunny room.
Annuals vs. Perennials
The term annual refers to those plants that complete their entire life cycles within a single growing season. Generally, annuals grow from a seed, produce their own flowers and seeds, and die in a single season, and new plants grow the following year from the seeds produced by the parent plant. Perennial plants, in contrast, survive through multiple growing seasons; although their reproductive cycles might be completed in one growing season, the parent plants will continue to grow and reproduce in subsequent seasons.
The year-after-year survival of perennial plants, however, is usually limited by their relative tolerance or intolerance of cold temperatures, and in climates where winters are colder than a given species will tolerate, the plant will usually die at the end of the growing season when the weather turns cold. When they're grown in climates where they're not winter-hardy, some perennials plants are treated as annuals by gardeners, who replant new plants each spring.
Sometimes when a perennial is grown in climates that fall just outside the climate in which the plant is fully winter-hardy, cold temperatures will cause the foliage and above-ground structure of the plant to die back, but the plant's root system will survive. In this case, the plant may survive the winter and begin to grow new foliage in the spring.
Lemongrass
The Cymbopogon species most commonly grown as the garden ornamental called lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a perennial, but it is sensitive to frost and below-freezing temperatures, and in the United States, it is fully winter hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. In these zones, the grass, which typically grows to a height of between 2 and 4 feet, will remain green throughout the winter.
In moderately cooler zones, lemongrass may survive the winter and return in the spring even though the plant's leaves die back. Lemongrass roots are typically hardy in USDA zones 8b and 9, and in these zones, the plant may return year after year.
In zones colder than USDA zone 8b, lemongrass will likely not survive the winter and must be grown in the garden as an annual. Alternatively, the plant may be grown in a container and taken indoors when temperatures begin to fall and over-wintered in a sunny room.
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