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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
In medieval Europe Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) was used as a diuretic (to rid the body of excess water) and to treat joint pain. Stinging Nettle has been used for hundreds of years to treat painful muscles and joints, eczema, arthritis, gout, and anemia. Today, many people use it to treat urinary problems during the early stages of an enlarged prostate, for urinary tract infections, for hay fever, or in compresses or creams for treating joint pain, sprains and strains, tendonitis, and insect bites.
Stinging Nettle is an herbaceous, quick-growing plant whose leaves and stems are covered with tiny, hollow, silica-tipped hairs which can cause irritation. Can grow to a height of approximately 4 feet (1.2 m).
Growing Conditions and General Care
Stinging Nettles prefers rich soil with good moisture content and especially favors the edges of streams or nutrient-dense pastures.
Stinging Nettle seeds are tiny, light dependant germinators that can be started indoors or out. However, select your location carefully as Nettles are very hardy and can spread quickly with the right conditions. Stinging Nettle can be assisted with stratification, but it is not necessary.
To start, tamp the small seeds lightly into the soil or cover with a thin layer of soil (0.25 inch/6 mm). If starting indoors, sow in flats in late winter and transplant in early spring. Space plants approximately 8 inches (20 cm) apart. If direct sowing, seed in spring and thin as desired and plant rows 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
It recommended to find a permanent spot with rich, moist conditions a little away from (or on the periphery of) your other herbs.
Harvesting and Using
Carefully collect spiny leaves before plant flowers in spring and early summer. Do not harvest when flowering. Be sure to wear gloves when collecting to avoid the ‘sting’ delivered by tiny hairs on the leaves and stem. Place on well-ventilated screen to dry.
Stinging Nettles are full of nutrients. They are best used fresh for cooking and should be harvested just before you intend to use them. Cooking neutralizes the plant’s stinging ability. For making tea you can use fresh or dried leaves.
Stinging Nettle is an herbaceous, quick-growing plant whose leaves and stems are covered with tiny, hollow, silica-tipped hairs which can cause irritation. Can grow to a height of approximately 4 feet (1.2 m).
Growing Conditions and General Care
Stinging Nettles prefers rich soil with good moisture content and especially favors the edges of streams or nutrient-dense pastures.
Stinging Nettle seeds are tiny, light dependant germinators that can be started indoors or out. However, select your location carefully as Nettles are very hardy and can spread quickly with the right conditions. Stinging Nettle can be assisted with stratification, but it is not necessary.
To start, tamp the small seeds lightly into the soil or cover with a thin layer of soil (0.25 inch/6 mm). If starting indoors, sow in flats in late winter and transplant in early spring. Space plants approximately 8 inches (20 cm) apart. If direct sowing, seed in spring and thin as desired and plant rows 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
It recommended to find a permanent spot with rich, moist conditions a little away from (or on the periphery of) your other herbs.
Harvesting and Using
Carefully collect spiny leaves before plant flowers in spring and early summer. Do not harvest when flowering. Be sure to wear gloves when collecting to avoid the ‘sting’ delivered by tiny hairs on the leaves and stem. Place on well-ventilated screen to dry.
Stinging Nettles are full of nutrients. They are best used fresh for cooking and should be harvested just before you intend to use them. Cooking neutralizes the plant’s stinging ability. For making tea you can use fresh or dried leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Calendula is a genus of about 15–20 species of annual and perennial herbaceous plants in the daisy family Asteraceae that are often known as Marigolds. They are native to southwestern Asia, western Europe, Macaronesia, and the Mediterranean.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
One of the first blooms to appear is the Crocus, sometimes peeking up through a layer of snow with the promise of spring. The Crocus plant grows from bulbs and is native to central and eastern Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and parts of Asia and China. They are adaptable flowers that have become part of the North American landscape, providing much needed late winter or early spring cheer. Growing Crocus in the home garden is easy if you know when to plant it.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You should purchase your Crocus bulbs in September or October but wait to plant them until soil temperatures are below 60°F (16°C). As a general rule, bulbs are planted in November. Crocus is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 but planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze.
The bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost. Crocus need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks before blooming, so plan accordingly when growing it in your garden.
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
When the flowers are spent, leave the foliage until it dies back to collect solar energy to feed the bulbs for the next bloom. Every two to three years, clumps should be divided in fall when they are dormant. Dig up the clump and cut it into pieces with several bulbs attached and at least four healthy stems.
Fertilize Crocus beds with a slow release fertilizer in fall according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You should purchase your Crocus bulbs in September or October but wait to plant them until soil temperatures are below 60°F (16°C). As a general rule, bulbs are planted in November. Crocus is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 but planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze.
The bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost. Crocus need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks before blooming, so plan accordingly when growing it in your garden.
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
When the flowers are spent, leave the foliage until it dies back to collect solar energy to feed the bulbs for the next bloom. Every two to three years, clumps should be divided in fall when they are dormant. Dig up the clump and cut it into pieces with several bulbs attached and at least four healthy stems.
Fertilize Crocus beds with a slow release fertilizer in fall according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Salicornia europaea, known as Common Glasswort or just Glasswort, is a halophytic annual dicot flowering in August to October. It flowers in groups of three. Glasswort is found in Africa, Europe and North America. Within the saltmarsh it can be found in low marsh and in depressions, salt pans and open creek sides. It is edible, either cooked or raw.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Kabatina blight is caused by the fungal organism Kabatina juniperi. It results in tip dieback of one year-old growth, causing death to terminal branch ends. It is a problem of junipers, cypress, and arborvitae in North America and Europe. 
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Kabatina symptoms occur in late winter or early spring, generally in February and March, when the terminal 2-6 inches of diseased growth turns a dull green or yellow brown and then red or yellow as the infection progresses. Damage can be confused with winter injury. This disease may also be confused with phomopsis tip blight as both may result in dead tips but symptom occurance is quite different for the two diseases. Phomopsis blight infection occurs in spring and results in the yellowing and death of new, succulent juvenile foliage. Once the needles are fully green and mature phomopsis is not capable of causing infection. Kabatina, however, can infect mature foliage in the fall, winter or the following spring.
Life Cycle
The disease survives on infected plant debris as grayish lessions at the base of blighted portions of shoots. Fruiting bodies develop as small black "pimples," numerous in spring and diminish as the season progresses.The spores are moved by rain and irrigation and enter wounds or small opening caused by mechanical damage or insect feeding. The primary infection time is believed to be in fall although symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring. (Note: Symptoms of phomopsis tip blight occur in late spring as the new growth develops.)
Integrated Pest Mangement
1. Sanitation. Prune and destroy infected twigs and branches during dry weather. Avoid unnesessary wounding during wet weather which can provide entry points for the fungus. Damage is restricted to tips and doesn't cause death of the plant.
2. Good culture. Maintain adequate fertility for the plants but do not over fertilize. Avoid watering at night when the plants will remain wet all night long.
3. Fungicides. There are no fungicides currently registerd to control kabatina blight.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Kabatina symptoms occur in late winter or early spring, generally in February and March, when the terminal 2-6 inches of diseased growth turns a dull green or yellow brown and then red or yellow as the infection progresses. Damage can be confused with winter injury. This disease may also be confused with phomopsis tip blight as both may result in dead tips but symptom occurance is quite different for the two diseases. Phomopsis blight infection occurs in spring and results in the yellowing and death of new, succulent juvenile foliage. Once the needles are fully green and mature phomopsis is not capable of causing infection. Kabatina, however, can infect mature foliage in the fall, winter or the following spring.
Life Cycle
The disease survives on infected plant debris as grayish lessions at the base of blighted portions of shoots. Fruiting bodies develop as small black "pimples," numerous in spring and diminish as the season progresses.The spores are moved by rain and irrigation and enter wounds or small opening caused by mechanical damage or insect feeding. The primary infection time is believed to be in fall although symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring. (Note: Symptoms of phomopsis tip blight occur in late spring as the new growth develops.)
Integrated Pest Mangement
1. Sanitation. Prune and destroy infected twigs and branches during dry weather. Avoid unnesessary wounding during wet weather which can provide entry points for the fungus. Damage is restricted to tips and doesn't cause death of the plant.
2. Good culture. Maintain adequate fertility for the plants but do not over fertilize. Avoid watering at night when the plants will remain wet all night long.
3. Fungicides. There are no fungicides currently registerd to control kabatina blight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The pine tree lappet moth (Dendrolimus pini) is a native of continental Europe, Russia and Asia, where it causes periodic, large-scale damage to pine plantations. This damage sometimes covers thousands of hectares, with outbreaks lasting up to eight years in some parts of its range. Outbreaks and resultant defoliation by pine tree lappet moth caterpillars can impair tree growth and tree health, making trees more susceptible to other organisms such as bark beetles and wood-boring insects, the effects of which could ultimately lead to tree deaths. This could lead to significant ecological, economic and, ultimately, social impacts.
Distribution
In Scotland, adult male moths were first caught in 2004 in a pine plantation to the west of Inverness, and then in the river Beauly catchment, but the presence of this moth was not reported to the Forestry Commission until 2008.
There have been occasional sightings of single specimens on the south coast of England and in the Channel Islands. These were probably ‘migrant’ males blown across the English Channel.
There is a report that a caterpillar found in Essex in 1999 on a pine tree imported from Italy was bred out to produce a female moth. It was first recorded in Scotland in 2004.
Its natural range is the Scots pine forests of continental Europe, where it is widespread, occurring in every European country as well as Russia and parts of Asia. It has also been reported in North Africa.
Spread
The moths move mainly by flying, although the female moths are very heavy (with eggs) and therefore do not usually fly further than a few hundred metres. Older caterpillars are able to crawl from tree to tree – but can also crawl as much as several hundred metres to reach new stands of trees. Eggs, larvae and pupae could also be spread on harvested logs being transported on lorries, or on plants or foliage.
We do not yet know how the moth got here. It could have been brought in on imported pine trees, on forestry machinery from abroad, or with wood products or wood packaging - but it is also possible that it might have been accidentally or deliberately released. We have no information that would confirm which of these possible routes could have led to the current finds, and it remains most unlikely that we will be able to trace-back unless further DNA testing finds a very close match to an overseas source population.
Lifecycle
Adult moths emerge from pupae in midsummer and live for 9-10 days, during which time they mate. The females each deposit up to 250 eggs on twigs, needles and the bark of host trees. These hatch within 16-25 days, and the caterpillars feed on pine needles in the tree canopy until winter frosts begin, when they then move down the trees to over-winter between the litter and soil close to the base of trees.
Pine-tree lappet moth caterpillar eating Scots pine needle. Location: Northern Research Station, Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland.In spring the caterpillars return to the tree crowns and continue feeding until they are large enough to pupate.
The caterpillars moult through several, progressively larger stages, growing to as much as 8.0 cm long. Pupation begins in May and June and lasts for 4-5 weeks. Pupae are formed inside loose, partially transparent cocoons, which can be found in tree crowns, bark crevices and under-storey vegetation.
In laboratory conditions it is possible for development from egg to adult to take place in only 6-7 months. In field conditions under our current climate a two-year cycle is believed to be the norm, but a one-year life-cycle under favourable conditions, and a three-year lif-ecycle under less favourable conditions, cannot be discounted.
In Europe natural enemies include several bacteria and fungi (particularly on the over-wintering caterpillars), parasitoids (e.g. parasitic wasps and flies) and predators such as ants and birds, which will feed on or attack the larvae. Bats will catch the adults. A number of species of insects have been reported to prey on the moth.
Distribution
In Scotland, adult male moths were first caught in 2004 in a pine plantation to the west of Inverness, and then in the river Beauly catchment, but the presence of this moth was not reported to the Forestry Commission until 2008.
There have been occasional sightings of single specimens on the south coast of England and in the Channel Islands. These were probably ‘migrant’ males blown across the English Channel.
There is a report that a caterpillar found in Essex in 1999 on a pine tree imported from Italy was bred out to produce a female moth. It was first recorded in Scotland in 2004.
Its natural range is the Scots pine forests of continental Europe, where it is widespread, occurring in every European country as well as Russia and parts of Asia. It has also been reported in North Africa.
Spread
The moths move mainly by flying, although the female moths are very heavy (with eggs) and therefore do not usually fly further than a few hundred metres. Older caterpillars are able to crawl from tree to tree – but can also crawl as much as several hundred metres to reach new stands of trees. Eggs, larvae and pupae could also be spread on harvested logs being transported on lorries, or on plants or foliage.
We do not yet know how the moth got here. It could have been brought in on imported pine trees, on forestry machinery from abroad, or with wood products or wood packaging - but it is also possible that it might have been accidentally or deliberately released. We have no information that would confirm which of these possible routes could have led to the current finds, and it remains most unlikely that we will be able to trace-back unless further DNA testing finds a very close match to an overseas source population.
Lifecycle
Adult moths emerge from pupae in midsummer and live for 9-10 days, during which time they mate. The females each deposit up to 250 eggs on twigs, needles and the bark of host trees. These hatch within 16-25 days, and the caterpillars feed on pine needles in the tree canopy until winter frosts begin, when they then move down the trees to over-winter between the litter and soil close to the base of trees.
Pine-tree lappet moth caterpillar eating Scots pine needle. Location: Northern Research Station, Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland.In spring the caterpillars return to the tree crowns and continue feeding until they are large enough to pupate.
The caterpillars moult through several, progressively larger stages, growing to as much as 8.0 cm long. Pupation begins in May and June and lasts for 4-5 weeks. Pupae are formed inside loose, partially transparent cocoons, which can be found in tree crowns, bark crevices and under-storey vegetation.
In laboratory conditions it is possible for development from egg to adult to take place in only 6-7 months. In field conditions under our current climate a two-year cycle is believed to be the norm, but a one-year life-cycle under favourable conditions, and a three-year lif-ecycle under less favourable conditions, cannot be discounted.
In Europe natural enemies include several bacteria and fungi (particularly on the over-wintering caterpillars), parasitoids (e.g. parasitic wasps and flies) and predators such as ants and birds, which will feed on or attack the larvae. Bats will catch the adults. A number of species of insects have been reported to prey on the moth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The great spruce bark beetle (Dendroctonus micans) is found in forests throughout mainland Europe. It damages spruce trees by tunnelling into the bark of the living trees to lay its eggs under the bark, and the developing larvae feed on the inner woody layers. This weakens, and in some cases can kill, the tree. 
Outbreak stage
The beetle was first discovered in Great Britain in 1982 after it was accidentally introduced, most likely via a consignment of imported timber. It has become an established pest in Wales and western England, and has more recently expanded its range to southern Scotland.
Impact
The rate and extent of damage to individual trees and forests is variable. Neither the beetle nor its larvae burrow into the wood itself and, consequently, provided the wood is salvaged before the tree is completely dead, the timber is not spoiled in any way. Trees are killed by being completely girdled, at one or more points along the stem, although this may take several years of sustained attack. However, large breeding populations can be building up long before individual trees are killed, creating a risk of spread to adjacent and nearby trees.
Susceptible species
The beetle attacks and breeds in all species of spruce grown in Britain.
Symptoms
Look out for signs of poor tree health. Check especially for isolated or small groups of dead or dying trees characterised by browning foliage over some or all of the crown.
The entry of female beetles into the bark of trees gives rise to characteristic ‘resin tubes’ on the trunk. Resin tubes and granular resin at the base of the tree are reliable signs of stem or root attack. Resin tubes vary in colour from white and cream, to shades of purple and brown. They may be accompanied by copious resin bleeds. Loose bark with exposed beetle galleries usually indicates older infestations that have been attacked by woodpeckers.
Inspect the bark around resin tubes, particularly those that are purple to brown. A hollow sound when the bark is tapped often indicates successful attack. Remove the bark carefully and inspect for signs of the beetle. The most characteristic indicator is the presence of a mixture of insect faeces (frass) and bark packed into ‘islands’ creating a quilted appearance. All beetle stages, from egg to adult, might be present.
The beetle has a long life cycle, ranging from 12–18 months under British conditions. This results in extensive overlap of generations so that it is possible to find any stage at any time of year. However, there are periods, particularly in the winter, where most can be at the same stage.
Adult beetles are 6–8 mm long and 2.5–3 mm wide.They are black when mature, with a covering of orange hairs. The large size of the beetle enables the females to withstand the resin flow produced when they bore into the bark of trees.
Eggs are laid within a small egg chamber in the cambium of the tree. Each female can produce up to 300 eggs, laid in groups of 50–80, in interconnecting chambers. Eggs are usually laid on one side of the chamber.
Larvae - The beetle has five larval stages (instars), which each become progressively larger. All larval stages feed under the bark in a similar manner: larvae feed side-by-side, packing powdery wood debris (or ‘frass’) and diseased or dead larvae behind them into islands away from the main feeding site. The mixture of resin and frass forms a distinctive quilted pattern.
Pupae are the immobile, resting stage of beetle development before the larvae moult to the adult stage. Pupae are found in pupal cells among the larval frass. They are often found in close proximity and give rise, upon emergence, to aggregations of adults under the bark. These stages can be prolonged over several weeks or months, depending on temperature.
The newly emerged adults are light brown. As they mature the colour darkens to brown and black. Adult beetles move within and between trees mainly by crawling (at temperatures of 12°C or greater), but they occasionally fly (at temperatures of 22.5°C or greater).
Treatment
Information on treating infected trees can be found in the guidance document Minimising the impact of the great spruce bark beetle
Action
Statutory controls against the spread of D. micans were first put in place in Great Britain in 1982. Following the discovery of three new outbreaks outside the main infested area, the Forestry Commission reviewed the controls and consulted the forestry industry on two options: extension of the designation of the infested area and continuing the policy of movement restrictions into Scotland and north-east England, or revocation of our EU protected-zone status. The second of these options was agreed, and from 15 May 2005 the movement within Great Britain of conifer wood and conifer bark was no longer subject to any treatment requirements.
Part of the west of Scotland is designated as a ‘pest-free area’ out of which wood and bark can be moved without treatment under the EU plant passport regime.
Outbreak stage
The beetle was first discovered in Great Britain in 1982 after it was accidentally introduced, most likely via a consignment of imported timber. It has become an established pest in Wales and western England, and has more recently expanded its range to southern Scotland.
Impact
The rate and extent of damage to individual trees and forests is variable. Neither the beetle nor its larvae burrow into the wood itself and, consequently, provided the wood is salvaged before the tree is completely dead, the timber is not spoiled in any way. Trees are killed by being completely girdled, at one or more points along the stem, although this may take several years of sustained attack. However, large breeding populations can be building up long before individual trees are killed, creating a risk of spread to adjacent and nearby trees.
Susceptible species
The beetle attacks and breeds in all species of spruce grown in Britain.
Symptoms
Look out for signs of poor tree health. Check especially for isolated or small groups of dead or dying trees characterised by browning foliage over some or all of the crown.
The entry of female beetles into the bark of trees gives rise to characteristic ‘resin tubes’ on the trunk. Resin tubes and granular resin at the base of the tree are reliable signs of stem or root attack. Resin tubes vary in colour from white and cream, to shades of purple and brown. They may be accompanied by copious resin bleeds. Loose bark with exposed beetle galleries usually indicates older infestations that have been attacked by woodpeckers.
Inspect the bark around resin tubes, particularly those that are purple to brown. A hollow sound when the bark is tapped often indicates successful attack. Remove the bark carefully and inspect for signs of the beetle. The most characteristic indicator is the presence of a mixture of insect faeces (frass) and bark packed into ‘islands’ creating a quilted appearance. All beetle stages, from egg to adult, might be present.
The beetle has a long life cycle, ranging from 12–18 months under British conditions. This results in extensive overlap of generations so that it is possible to find any stage at any time of year. However, there are periods, particularly in the winter, where most can be at the same stage.
Adult beetles are 6–8 mm long and 2.5–3 mm wide.They are black when mature, with a covering of orange hairs. The large size of the beetle enables the females to withstand the resin flow produced when they bore into the bark of trees.
Eggs are laid within a small egg chamber in the cambium of the tree. Each female can produce up to 300 eggs, laid in groups of 50–80, in interconnecting chambers. Eggs are usually laid on one side of the chamber.
Larvae - The beetle has five larval stages (instars), which each become progressively larger. All larval stages feed under the bark in a similar manner: larvae feed side-by-side, packing powdery wood debris (or ‘frass’) and diseased or dead larvae behind them into islands away from the main feeding site. The mixture of resin and frass forms a distinctive quilted pattern.
Pupae are the immobile, resting stage of beetle development before the larvae moult to the adult stage. Pupae are found in pupal cells among the larval frass. They are often found in close proximity and give rise, upon emergence, to aggregations of adults under the bark. These stages can be prolonged over several weeks or months, depending on temperature.
The newly emerged adults are light brown. As they mature the colour darkens to brown and black. Adult beetles move within and between trees mainly by crawling (at temperatures of 12°C or greater), but they occasionally fly (at temperatures of 22.5°C or greater).
Treatment
Information on treating infected trees can be found in the guidance document Minimising the impact of the great spruce bark beetle
Action
Statutory controls against the spread of D. micans were first put in place in Great Britain in 1982. Following the discovery of three new outbreaks outside the main infested area, the Forestry Commission reviewed the controls and consulted the forestry industry on two options: extension of the designation of the infested area and continuing the policy of movement restrictions into Scotland and north-east England, or revocation of our EU protected-zone status. The second of these options was agreed, and from 15 May 2005 the movement within Great Britain of conifer wood and conifer bark was no longer subject to any treatment requirements.
Part of the west of Scotland is designated as a ‘pest-free area’ out of which wood and bark can be moved without treatment under the EU plant passport regime.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Creeping Charlie, or "ground ivy" is an aromatic, perennial, evergreen creeper of the mint family that thrives particularly in moist, shady areas, although it will also take some sun. Native to Europe and known by the botanical name, Glechoma hederacea, it has naturalized in North America, where it has become a hard-to-kill weed common in lawns. Its range in the U.S. includes every state except for three states in the southern portion of the Rocky Mountains.
Part of the reason why the plant is invasive and why it is so hard to kill creeping Charlie is the variety of ways it has to spread. It spreads both by seeding and by rooting at the nodes that stud its little vines (which means you can spread it via mowing without even realizing it, unless you mow with a bag attachment). It can also spread by rhizomes, a fact to keep in mind when you're trying to dig it out. Leaving behind just a fragment of rhizome results in the birth of a new plant.
Killing Creeping Charlie Naturally, With Chemicals
People often wonder how to get rid of creeping Charlie (although, at the end of the article, you will read about its benefits, as well as some of the history behind this interesting weed). So let's take a look at both some chemical and natural ways of controlling it.
First of all, you may have heard of the well-known home remedy for killing creeping Charlie that involves using a solution with Borax, so let's deal with it briefly here.
This method has fallen out of favor, because, unless you use scientific precision in mixing the solution and applying it evenly onto the creeping Charlie plants, you can end up with a case of boron toxicity in your soil. But for those who are curious, Iowa State University's Richard Jauron says to
Dissolve 10 ounces of Borax into 4 ounces of warm water.
Then make a further dilution by mixing this solution into 2 1/2 gallons of water (this amount would provide coverage for an area of 1,000 square feet).
Assuming you're not willing to risk boron toxicity, let's look at some other ways to kill creeping Charlie, both naturally and with chemicals.
One factor that may help you decide on your control method is just how badly the weed has taken over the area in question. If the invasion is really bad, you may opt for a method that kills everything in the area, after which you would simply begin afresh from square one (whether it be starting a new lawn or starting a new garden). If you do not mind using chemicals, you could spray a glyphosate-based herbicide, such as Roundup, onto a lawn in such cases. Wait about a week before reseeding a lawn after using glyphosate.
Many gardeners prefer weed control without chemicals. At the very least, you should be looking for natural ways to kill creeping Charlie in garden areas. If the weed has totally taken over your garden beds, consider the following ways to kill creeping Charlie naturally (you can also use these methods on a weed-infested lawn that you've given up on, if you wish to avoid chemicals):
Smothering with newspapers.
Smothering with tarps, as you would in eradicating Japanese knotweed.
But what if the infestation isn't too bad? How can you get rid of small patches of creeping Charlie, removing it in a very targeted way that allows you to keep your current lawn or garden bed (instead of having to begin all over)?
For chemical control on the lawn, seek a selective broadleaf herbicide intended for use in killing creeping Charlie. Apply it around the time of the first frost in fall. Consult the label on the product to make sure the herbicide is effective against this particular weed (triclopyr, for example, is an active ingredient in some of the herbicides to which creeping Charlie is not resistant). While you're reading the label, also check:
That it's meant for use on the type of grass that you grow.
When and how to apply.
Safety precautions to take.
For natural control (in either lawn or garden), good old-fashioned weeding (hand-pulling) is your best choice.
The problem with hand-pulling, though, is that you have to be determined to stick with it. It's not a magic bullet: The weed most likely will return after the first hand-pulling, because the tiniest piece of rhizome left behind will eventually shoot up as a new plant. Keep an eye on the area so that you can catch any new shoot that comes up as soon as possible and remove it. It's hard work, but you will eventually wear the weed down.
An Herb With a Tale to Tell: History, Benefits
With all of the effort it takes to kill creeping Charlie, you may be surprised to learn that it was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. Once you learn about the history of creeping Charlie's uses, some of that surprise should wear off, though. But before you hear that story, let's back up. You need to know a bit more information about the traits of this fascinating weed.
Creeping Charlie has a square stem that varies in length from a few inches to 2 feet. The color of its leaves also varies, from dark green to purple. The funnel-shaped flowers have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground, making it something of a wild groundcover.
A somewhat slower-growing type of creeping Charlie with two-toned leaves and suited to planting zones 4-9 is sold at some garden centers. Grow it in a container garden (which will check its spread) on a deck or patio, and give it full sun to discourage its leaves from reverting back to their natural green color.
The plant's uses for treating ailments have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. The famous Greco-Roman doctor, Galen, for instance, recommended it for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommended creeping Charlie for ringing in the ears.
Never is it wise, however, to eat any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming informed about its properties.
If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be used, whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink.
Common Names, How It Differs From Creeping Jenny, and Whether It's Poisonous
It wasn't only as a healing herb that the plant was prized, traditionally. The Saxons used creeping Charlie to clarify their beers, in the same way that hops vine is now used. In fact, an alternate common name for the plant is "gill" (or "gill-over-the-ground"), which comes from the French word that means "to ferment beer" (guiller).
Sometimes, this weed is also referred to as "creeping Jenny," but that nickname is more commonly reserved for Lysimachia nummularia. Novices may think the two weeds look alike, but, if you take a closer look, you can easily tell the two apart: Creeping Jenny's leaf does not have the scalloped edges that creeping Charlie's does.
Yet another common name for this perennial lawn weed is "catsfoot" (its leaf is more or less the shape and size of a kitten's paw). But don't let the innocent-sounding name fool you: Cats, dogs, and various other animals can get sick by eating large amounts of creeping Charlie. So can humans. According to the University of Illinois Extension, there are compounds in creeping Charlie that are poisonous, being harmful to "the liver, gastrointestinal tract and kidneys."
When a plant has this many nicknames, you can be pretty sure of two things: It's widespread, and people have interacted with it in a number of ways over a long period of time. Creeping Charlie, the despised lawn weed, the invasive alien that we spend so much time battling, is just such a plant.
Do you enjoy the fragrance of a freshly mown lawn? Most people do. Well, wait until you have mown a patch of lawn that has some creeping Charlie growing in it. You haven't smelled anything yet until you've experienced the aroma of freshly mown creeping Charlie. Truly one of the joys of summer, smelling the aroma of these fragrant plants almost makes the boring chore of mowing the lawn worthwhile.
Part of the reason why the plant is invasive and why it is so hard to kill creeping Charlie is the variety of ways it has to spread. It spreads both by seeding and by rooting at the nodes that stud its little vines (which means you can spread it via mowing without even realizing it, unless you mow with a bag attachment). It can also spread by rhizomes, a fact to keep in mind when you're trying to dig it out. Leaving behind just a fragment of rhizome results in the birth of a new plant.
Killing Creeping Charlie Naturally, With Chemicals
People often wonder how to get rid of creeping Charlie (although, at the end of the article, you will read about its benefits, as well as some of the history behind this interesting weed). So let's take a look at both some chemical and natural ways of controlling it.
First of all, you may have heard of the well-known home remedy for killing creeping Charlie that involves using a solution with Borax, so let's deal with it briefly here.
This method has fallen out of favor, because, unless you use scientific precision in mixing the solution and applying it evenly onto the creeping Charlie plants, you can end up with a case of boron toxicity in your soil. But for those who are curious, Iowa State University's Richard Jauron says to
Dissolve 10 ounces of Borax into 4 ounces of warm water.
Then make a further dilution by mixing this solution into 2 1/2 gallons of water (this amount would provide coverage for an area of 1,000 square feet).
Assuming you're not willing to risk boron toxicity, let's look at some other ways to kill creeping Charlie, both naturally and with chemicals.
One factor that may help you decide on your control method is just how badly the weed has taken over the area in question. If the invasion is really bad, you may opt for a method that kills everything in the area, after which you would simply begin afresh from square one (whether it be starting a new lawn or starting a new garden). If you do not mind using chemicals, you could spray a glyphosate-based herbicide, such as Roundup, onto a lawn in such cases. Wait about a week before reseeding a lawn after using glyphosate.
Many gardeners prefer weed control without chemicals. At the very least, you should be looking for natural ways to kill creeping Charlie in garden areas. If the weed has totally taken over your garden beds, consider the following ways to kill creeping Charlie naturally (you can also use these methods on a weed-infested lawn that you've given up on, if you wish to avoid chemicals):
Smothering with newspapers.
Smothering with tarps, as you would in eradicating Japanese knotweed.
But what if the infestation isn't too bad? How can you get rid of small patches of creeping Charlie, removing it in a very targeted way that allows you to keep your current lawn or garden bed (instead of having to begin all over)?
For chemical control on the lawn, seek a selective broadleaf herbicide intended for use in killing creeping Charlie. Apply it around the time of the first frost in fall. Consult the label on the product to make sure the herbicide is effective against this particular weed (triclopyr, for example, is an active ingredient in some of the herbicides to which creeping Charlie is not resistant). While you're reading the label, also check:
That it's meant for use on the type of grass that you grow.
When and how to apply.
Safety precautions to take.
For natural control (in either lawn or garden), good old-fashioned weeding (hand-pulling) is your best choice.
The problem with hand-pulling, though, is that you have to be determined to stick with it. It's not a magic bullet: The weed most likely will return after the first hand-pulling, because the tiniest piece of rhizome left behind will eventually shoot up as a new plant. Keep an eye on the area so that you can catch any new shoot that comes up as soon as possible and remove it. It's hard work, but you will eventually wear the weed down.
An Herb With a Tale to Tell: History, Benefits
With all of the effort it takes to kill creeping Charlie, you may be surprised to learn that it was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. Once you learn about the history of creeping Charlie's uses, some of that surprise should wear off, though. But before you hear that story, let's back up. You need to know a bit more information about the traits of this fascinating weed.
Creeping Charlie has a square stem that varies in length from a few inches to 2 feet. The color of its leaves also varies, from dark green to purple. The funnel-shaped flowers have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground, making it something of a wild groundcover.
A somewhat slower-growing type of creeping Charlie with two-toned leaves and suited to planting zones 4-9 is sold at some garden centers. Grow it in a container garden (which will check its spread) on a deck or patio, and give it full sun to discourage its leaves from reverting back to their natural green color.
The plant's uses for treating ailments have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. The famous Greco-Roman doctor, Galen, for instance, recommended it for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommended creeping Charlie for ringing in the ears.
Never is it wise, however, to eat any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming informed about its properties.
If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be used, whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink.
Common Names, How It Differs From Creeping Jenny, and Whether It's Poisonous
It wasn't only as a healing herb that the plant was prized, traditionally. The Saxons used creeping Charlie to clarify their beers, in the same way that hops vine is now used. In fact, an alternate common name for the plant is "gill" (or "gill-over-the-ground"), which comes from the French word that means "to ferment beer" (guiller).
Sometimes, this weed is also referred to as "creeping Jenny," but that nickname is more commonly reserved for Lysimachia nummularia. Novices may think the two weeds look alike, but, if you take a closer look, you can easily tell the two apart: Creeping Jenny's leaf does not have the scalloped edges that creeping Charlie's does.
Yet another common name for this perennial lawn weed is "catsfoot" (its leaf is more or less the shape and size of a kitten's paw). But don't let the innocent-sounding name fool you: Cats, dogs, and various other animals can get sick by eating large amounts of creeping Charlie. So can humans. According to the University of Illinois Extension, there are compounds in creeping Charlie that are poisonous, being harmful to "the liver, gastrointestinal tract and kidneys."
When a plant has this many nicknames, you can be pretty sure of two things: It's widespread, and people have interacted with it in a number of ways over a long period of time. Creeping Charlie, the despised lawn weed, the invasive alien that we spend so much time battling, is just such a plant.
Do you enjoy the fragrance of a freshly mown lawn? Most people do. Well, wait until you have mown a patch of lawn that has some creeping Charlie growing in it. You haven't smelled anything yet until you've experienced the aroma of freshly mown creeping Charlie. Truly one of the joys of summer, smelling the aroma of these fragrant plants almost makes the boring chore of mowing the lawn worthwhile.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
The imported Viburnum Leaf Beetle (VLB), a native of both Europe and Asia, was first spotted in North America in 1978, in the Ottawa-Hull region of Canada. Since then, it has been making its way south from Canada into the U.S. Viburnums have always been considered exceptionally pest free landscape plants, but this new pest is challenging that assumption. The VLB is a close relative of the more common elm leaf beetle and can very quickly strip the leaves from viburnums plants.
Both the larva and the adult beetle feed on viburnum leaves, skeletonizing them in a relatively short time. Initial infestations will not kill the plants, but defoliation for 2 - 3 consecutive years can be fatal.
What Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Look Like?
Viburnum leaf beetles are rather bland looking for an exotic pest and can be easily missed. The adults are about a 1/4 inch long (4.5 to 6.5 mm) and a dull brown, as are the tiny eggs. The larvae are a greenish-yellow, somewhat blending in with the foliage. They grow to about ½ inch long. Invasive.org has some great pictures of the various stages of the viburnum leaf beetle, which will help with identification.
Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Feed On All types of Viburnum?
Currently, the VLB has three favorite varieties of viburnum plants:
European highbush cranberry (Viburnum opulus)
Wayfaringtree viburnum (Viburnum lantana)
Rafinesque viburnum (Viburnum rafinesquianum)
Viburnum Leaf Beetle Lifecycle
The beetles overwinter as eggs deposited in the branches. They hatch in May and the larvae then feeds on the new leaves. Since the newly emerged larvae are so small, the first signs of injury may be missed, as the damage can appear as holes no larger than pin holes. Within a month, skeletonizing will be hard to miss.
It takes about 8-10 weeks for the VLB to go from egg to adult.
Sometime in June, the larvae will make their way to the ground, where they will pupate in the soil. The adult VLB emerges in the latter part of July and continues feeding on viburnums. The female VLB can lay eggs from late summer to the first frost, sometimes as many as 500 eggs per season. She chews holes in the new growth of viburnum and lays eggs in each hole. The holes are then covered with a mix of chewed twig and excrement, making them harder to notice. However, the holes will be made in a straight line on the underside of the twig.
How to Control Viburnum Leaf Beetle Damage
The best protection against VLB is to plant resistant varieties. These include some of the most popular landscape viburnums, including:
Doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum)
Korean Spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii)
Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum)
Cornell’s VLB Citizen Science lists those most resistant and varieties to avoid or monitor closely.
If you already have viburnums in your landscape, keep a close watch. In the early spring, before the eggs hatch in May, closely examine the small twigs from the previous year’s growth for egg laying holes and scars.
Warmer temperatures will cause the holes to swell and the caps may fall off. You will need to prune out and destroy all infested wood before the eggs hatch.
A the new leaves begin to open, check both sides of the leaves for larvae and again prune and destroy infested plant parts. Chemical pesticides are most effective when applied while the larvae are young. Adults tend to fly away or drop to the ground when disturbed. Check with your local Extension Service for recommended pesticides.
Both the larva and the adult beetle feed on viburnum leaves, skeletonizing them in a relatively short time. Initial infestations will not kill the plants, but defoliation for 2 - 3 consecutive years can be fatal.
What Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Look Like?
Viburnum leaf beetles are rather bland looking for an exotic pest and can be easily missed. The adults are about a 1/4 inch long (4.5 to 6.5 mm) and a dull brown, as are the tiny eggs. The larvae are a greenish-yellow, somewhat blending in with the foliage. They grow to about ½ inch long. Invasive.org has some great pictures of the various stages of the viburnum leaf beetle, which will help with identification.
Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Feed On All types of Viburnum?
Currently, the VLB has three favorite varieties of viburnum plants:
European highbush cranberry (Viburnum opulus)
Wayfaringtree viburnum (Viburnum lantana)
Rafinesque viburnum (Viburnum rafinesquianum)
Viburnum Leaf Beetle Lifecycle
The beetles overwinter as eggs deposited in the branches. They hatch in May and the larvae then feeds on the new leaves. Since the newly emerged larvae are so small, the first signs of injury may be missed, as the damage can appear as holes no larger than pin holes. Within a month, skeletonizing will be hard to miss.
It takes about 8-10 weeks for the VLB to go from egg to adult.
Sometime in June, the larvae will make their way to the ground, where they will pupate in the soil. The adult VLB emerges in the latter part of July and continues feeding on viburnums. The female VLB can lay eggs from late summer to the first frost, sometimes as many as 500 eggs per season. She chews holes in the new growth of viburnum and lays eggs in each hole. The holes are then covered with a mix of chewed twig and excrement, making them harder to notice. However, the holes will be made in a straight line on the underside of the twig.
How to Control Viburnum Leaf Beetle Damage
The best protection against VLB is to plant resistant varieties. These include some of the most popular landscape viburnums, including:
Doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum)
Korean Spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii)
Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum)
Cornell’s VLB Citizen Science lists those most resistant and varieties to avoid or monitor closely.
If you already have viburnums in your landscape, keep a close watch. In the early spring, before the eggs hatch in May, closely examine the small twigs from the previous year’s growth for egg laying holes and scars.
Warmer temperatures will cause the holes to swell and the caps may fall off. You will need to prune out and destroy all infested wood before the eggs hatch.
A the new leaves begin to open, check both sides of the leaves for larvae and again prune and destroy infested plant parts. Chemical pesticides are most effective when applied while the larvae are young. Adults tend to fly away or drop to the ground when disturbed. Check with your local Extension Service for recommended pesticides.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) is a berry producing tree native to Great Britain and throughout most of Europe, from Scandinavia south and east to the Mediterranean, Siberia and Iran. With such an extensive habitat, there must be some innovative uses for blackthorn berries and other interesting tidbits of information about blackthorn plants. Let’s read on to find out.
Information about Blackthorn Plants
Blackthorns are small, deciduous trees also referred to as ‘sloe.’ They grow in scrubs, thickets and woodlands in the wild. In the landscape, hedges are the most common use for growing blackthorn trees.
A growing blackthorn tree is spiny and densely limbed. It has smooth, dark brown bark with straight side shoots that become thorned. The leaves are wrinkled, serrated ovals that are pointed at the tip and tapered at the base. They may live for up to 100 years. Blackthorn trees are hermaphrodites, having both male and female reproductive parts. The flowers appear before the tree leafs out in March and April and are then pollinated by insects. The results are blue-black fruit. Birds enjoy eating the fruit, but the question is, are blackthorn berries edible for human consumption?
Uses for Blackthorn Berry Trees
Blackthorn trees are extremely wildlife friendly. They provide food and nesting space for a variety of birds with protection from prey due to the spiny branches. They are also a great source of nectar and pollen for bees in the spring and provide food for caterpillars on their journey to becoming butterflies and moths. As mentioned, the trees make a terrific impenetrable hedge with an enclosure of painful spike laden interwoven branches. Blackthorn wood is also traditionally used for making the Irish shillelaghs or walking sticks. As to the berries, the birds eat them, but are blackthorn berries edible for humans? I wouldn’t recommend it. While a small amount of raw berry will probably have little effect, the berries do contain hydrogen cyanide, which in larger doses may definitely have toxic effect. However, the berries are processed commercially into sloe gin as well as in wine making and preserves.
Prunus spinosa Care
Very little is needed in the way of care for Prunus spinosa. It grows well in a variety of soil types from sun to partial sun exposures. It is, however, susceptible to several fungal diseases which can cause blossom wilt and, therefore, affect fruit production.
Information about Blackthorn Plants
Blackthorns are small, deciduous trees also referred to as ‘sloe.’ They grow in scrubs, thickets and woodlands in the wild. In the landscape, hedges are the most common use for growing blackthorn trees.
A growing blackthorn tree is spiny and densely limbed. It has smooth, dark brown bark with straight side shoots that become thorned. The leaves are wrinkled, serrated ovals that are pointed at the tip and tapered at the base. They may live for up to 100 years. Blackthorn trees are hermaphrodites, having both male and female reproductive parts. The flowers appear before the tree leafs out in March and April and are then pollinated by insects. The results are blue-black fruit. Birds enjoy eating the fruit, but the question is, are blackthorn berries edible for human consumption?
Uses for Blackthorn Berry Trees
Blackthorn trees are extremely wildlife friendly. They provide food and nesting space for a variety of birds with protection from prey due to the spiny branches. They are also a great source of nectar and pollen for bees in the spring and provide food for caterpillars on their journey to becoming butterflies and moths. As mentioned, the trees make a terrific impenetrable hedge with an enclosure of painful spike laden interwoven branches. Blackthorn wood is also traditionally used for making the Irish shillelaghs or walking sticks. As to the berries, the birds eat them, but are blackthorn berries edible for humans? I wouldn’t recommend it. While a small amount of raw berry will probably have little effect, the berries do contain hydrogen cyanide, which in larger doses may definitely have toxic effect. However, the berries are processed commercially into sloe gin as well as in wine making and preserves.
Prunus spinosa Care
Very little is needed in the way of care for Prunus spinosa. It grows well in a variety of soil types from sun to partial sun exposures. It is, however, susceptible to several fungal diseases which can cause blossom wilt and, therefore, affect fruit production.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Black alder trees (Alnus glutinosa) are fast-growing, water-loving, highly adaptable, deciduous trees that hail from Europe. These trees have many uses in the home landscape and a number of qualities that make them highly attractive. Read on to learn more.
Black Alder Tree Info
There are many black alder facts that should be of interest to homeowners and landscapers. They grow to 50’ tall and have a pyramidal shape. They can take waterlogged soils and somewhat dry conditions. They have appealing glossy leaves. Their smooth grey bark is especially attractive in winter when it stands out against the snow. There are many uses for black alder trees. The trees have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air and increase soil fertility through their root nodules. Alder trees are valuable in landscape restoration projects where the soil is degraded. Black alders in the landscape are terrific habitat trees. They provide food for butterflies, mice, turtles, birds and deer.
Planting Black Alder in the Landscape
So where do black alder trees grow? They grow especially well in moist soils, by waterways and in boggy woodlands in the Midwest and on the East Coast. But be careful when you put black alder in the landscape. The trees spread readily and are considered invasive in some states. Be sure to check with your local nursery or university extension before you plant black alder in the landscape. They are so vigorous that their aggressive roots can lift sidewalks and invade sewer lines.
Black Alder Tree Info
There are many black alder facts that should be of interest to homeowners and landscapers. They grow to 50’ tall and have a pyramidal shape. They can take waterlogged soils and somewhat dry conditions. They have appealing glossy leaves. Their smooth grey bark is especially attractive in winter when it stands out against the snow. There are many uses for black alder trees. The trees have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air and increase soil fertility through their root nodules. Alder trees are valuable in landscape restoration projects where the soil is degraded. Black alders in the landscape are terrific habitat trees. They provide food for butterflies, mice, turtles, birds and deer.
Planting Black Alder in the Landscape
So where do black alder trees grow? They grow especially well in moist soils, by waterways and in boggy woodlands in the Midwest and on the East Coast. But be careful when you put black alder in the landscape. The trees spread readily and are considered invasive in some states. Be sure to check with your local nursery or university extension before you plant black alder in the landscape. They are so vigorous that their aggressive roots can lift sidewalks and invade sewer lines.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow scab disease attacks different types of willow species in Europe and the United States. It can attack weeping willows but is not one of the more common weeping willow diseases. Willow scab is caused by the fungus Venturia salciperda. Scab on willow trees usually doesn’t cause serious harm unless the black canker fungus (Glomerella miyabeanais) is also present. Read on to learn about how to recognize and how to treat willow scab.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Plane trees, also called London plane trees, are natural hybrids that developed in the wild in Europe. In French, the tree is called “platane à feuilles d’érable,” meaning platane tree with leaves like oaks. The plane tree is a member of the sycamore family and bears the scientific name Platanus x acerifolia. It is a tough, hardy tree with a lovely straight trunk and green leaves that are lobed like the leaves of oak trees. Read on for more plane tree information.
Plane Tree Information
London plane trees grow wild in Europe and are increasingly cultivated in the United States. These are tall, sturdy, easy-grow trees that can get to 100 feet tall and 80 feet wide.
The trunks of London plane trees are straight, while the spreading branches droop slightly, creating graceful ornamental specimens for large backyards. The leaves are lobed like stars. They are bright green and huge. Some grow to 12 inches across. The bark on London plane trees is very attractive. It is silvery taupe but flakes off in patches to create a camouflage pattern, revealing the olive green or cream-colored inner bark. The fruits are also ornamental, tan spikey balls that hang in groups from stalks.
London Plane Tree Growing
London plane tree growing is not difficult if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9a. The tree grows in almost any soil – acidic or alkaline, loamy, sandy or clay. It accepts wet or dry soil. Plane tree information suggests that plane trees grow best in full sun, but they also thrive in partial shade. The trees are easy to propagate from cuttings, and European farmers make hedgerows by thrusting trimmed branches into the soil along property lines.
Plane Tree Care
If you plant London plane trees, you’ll need to provide water for the first growing season, until the root system develops. But plane tree care is minimal once the tree is mature. This tree survives extended flooding and is highly drought tolerant. Some gardeners consider it a nuisance, since the big leaves do not decompose quickly. However, they are excellent additions to your compost pile.
Plane Tree Information
London plane trees grow wild in Europe and are increasingly cultivated in the United States. These are tall, sturdy, easy-grow trees that can get to 100 feet tall and 80 feet wide.
The trunks of London plane trees are straight, while the spreading branches droop slightly, creating graceful ornamental specimens for large backyards. The leaves are lobed like stars. They are bright green and huge. Some grow to 12 inches across. The bark on London plane trees is very attractive. It is silvery taupe but flakes off in patches to create a camouflage pattern, revealing the olive green or cream-colored inner bark. The fruits are also ornamental, tan spikey balls that hang in groups from stalks.
London Plane Tree Growing
London plane tree growing is not difficult if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9a. The tree grows in almost any soil – acidic or alkaline, loamy, sandy or clay. It accepts wet or dry soil. Plane tree information suggests that plane trees grow best in full sun, but they also thrive in partial shade. The trees are easy to propagate from cuttings, and European farmers make hedgerows by thrusting trimmed branches into the soil along property lines.
Plane Tree Care
If you plant London plane trees, you’ll need to provide water for the first growing season, until the root system develops. But plane tree care is minimal once the tree is mature. This tree survives extended flooding and is highly drought tolerant. Some gardeners consider it a nuisance, since the big leaves do not decompose quickly. However, they are excellent additions to your compost pile.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
If you are seeking a beautiful medium to large sized maple tree, look no further than the Norway maple. This lovely plant is native to Europe and western Asia, and has become naturalized in some areas of North America. In some regions, growing a Norway maple tree can be a problem where it self-seeds and displaces other native vegetation. With good care and careful management, however, this tree can be a good shade or standalone specimen. Learn how to grow Norway maple trees and enjoy their ornamental classic look and ease of care.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as goutweed and snow on the mountain, bishop’s weed is a rambunctious plant native to western Asia and Europe. It has naturalized across most of the United States, where it isn’t always welcome due to its extreme invasive tendencies. However, bishop’s weed plant may be just the thing for tough areas with poor soil or excessive shade; it will grow where most plants are doomed to fail. A variegated form of bishop’s weed plant is popular in home gardens. This form, (Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’) displays small, bluish-green leaves with white edges. The creamy white color provides a luminous effect in shady areas, which probably explains why bishop’s weed plant is also known as “snow on the mountain.” Eventually, you may notice variegation loss in bishop’s weed plants. If your bishop’s weed is losing its variegation, read on for information.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
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