文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hosta plants are a perennial favorite among gardeners. Their lush foliage and easy care make them ideal for a low maintenance garden. Originating in the Orient and brought to the Europe in the 1700s, today there are over 2,500 cultivars with such variety in leaf shape, size and texture, that an entire garden could be devoted to growing hostas alone. While hosta care is considered easy, it helps to know a little bit about how to grow hostas to help the plants reach their full garden potential.
Where and How to Grow Hostas
Although hosta plants are touted as shade lovers, their sunlight requirements vary widely. Successfully growing hostas in the shade depends on color. Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a color so deep it’s called blue to a light chartreuse to a soft creamy white.
A good rule of thumb for the placement and care of hostas is the lighter the foliage, the brighter the sun. The deeper darker foliage retains it color best in moderate shade. The variegated varieties need more sunlight to keep their white and gold stripes. All hostas need some shade and few, if any, will do well in strong direct sunlight. They will fully mature in four to eight years.
For the best care of hostas, plant them in rich organic soil with a slightly acidic pH. You’ll only have to do it once. Dig the planting hole about a foot deep, and wide enough to accommodate the spread of a full sized plant. This will make it easier for the roots to establish a foothold and begin their horizontal spread. In spite of their almost tropical look, hostas are rugged and once established, they tolerate almost any soil and will grow for years. When discussing how to grow hostas, drainage is most important. Dormant season crown rot is one of the few diseases that attack these plants. Good hosta care requires good drainage. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, not wet. Once established, hosta plants aren’t fussy and are very tolerant of summer drought.
Tips for Hosta Care
Once your plant is established, hosta care becomes a matter of simple maintenance. To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free. Deer find the tasty and if deer are a problem in your neighborhood, you might try planting daffodils around your hosta to keep them away from the emerging shoots. Another difficulty in hosta care is slugs, which leave unsightly holes in the leaves. A light scattering of sand around your plants will help keep them away.
Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and fit well in a variety of spaces, ranging from a few inches to four feet across. Care of hostas is easy and now you’ve discovered the basics of how to grow hostas, you’ll find them a welcome addition to your yard.
Where and How to Grow Hostas
Although hosta plants are touted as shade lovers, their sunlight requirements vary widely. Successfully growing hostas in the shade depends on color. Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a color so deep it’s called blue to a light chartreuse to a soft creamy white.
A good rule of thumb for the placement and care of hostas is the lighter the foliage, the brighter the sun. The deeper darker foliage retains it color best in moderate shade. The variegated varieties need more sunlight to keep their white and gold stripes. All hostas need some shade and few, if any, will do well in strong direct sunlight. They will fully mature in four to eight years.
For the best care of hostas, plant them in rich organic soil with a slightly acidic pH. You’ll only have to do it once. Dig the planting hole about a foot deep, and wide enough to accommodate the spread of a full sized plant. This will make it easier for the roots to establish a foothold and begin their horizontal spread. In spite of their almost tropical look, hostas are rugged and once established, they tolerate almost any soil and will grow for years. When discussing how to grow hostas, drainage is most important. Dormant season crown rot is one of the few diseases that attack these plants. Good hosta care requires good drainage. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, not wet. Once established, hosta plants aren’t fussy and are very tolerant of summer drought.
Tips for Hosta Care
Once your plant is established, hosta care becomes a matter of simple maintenance. To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free. Deer find the tasty and if deer are a problem in your neighborhood, you might try planting daffodils around your hosta to keep them away from the emerging shoots. Another difficulty in hosta care is slugs, which leave unsightly holes in the leaves. A light scattering of sand around your plants will help keep them away.
Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and fit well in a variety of spaces, ranging from a few inches to four feet across. Care of hostas is easy and now you’ve discovered the basics of how to grow hostas, you’ll find them a welcome addition to your yard.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A member of the family Lamiaceae, red raripila mint plants (Mentha x smithiana) are hybrid plants composed of the corn mint (Mentha arvensis), watermint (Mentha aquatica), and spearmint (Mentha spicata). More commonly used in Northern and Central Europe, acquiring red raripila plants may require a bit more research, as other mint varieties are more popular in the United States and Canada, but well worth the effort for its lovely green/red leaves with red stems.
Red Raripila Mint Information
Pollinated and extremely popular to bees and butterflies makes the red raripila mint extremely susceptible to cross hybridization. Growing red raripila mint plants are, however, not attractive to deer, making them a nice addition to rural landscapes. Red raripila mint is also a great companion plant to vegetable crops such as cabbages and tomatoes as they act as a deterrent to troublesome insect pests.
As mentioned, it may be a bit more of a challenge to obtain these plants in North America, but if one does obtain seed, be aware that this little hybrid is generally sterile and thus, the seed will usually not breed true. If, however, seed is acquired, it may be sown in the spring in a cold frame and has a relatively quick germination. Once the red raripila plants attain some size, transplant them to pots or other restrictive growing area. Red raripila mint is easily divisible and should be done in spring or fall, although the plant is fairly tolerant of division most any time of the year. Any portion of the root is capable of creating a new plant and will establish rapidly with a limited amount of fuss.
Care of Red Raripila Mint
Care of red raripila plants, as for all mint varieties, is fairly simple. Like all mint plants, red raripila plants are aggressive spreaders once established and should be planted either in pots or a confined area. Easy to grow, this little perennial succeeds in most any type of soil as long as it is not too arid, including heavily clay laden soils. Care of red raripila mint includes a slightly acidic soil. Growing red raripila mint plants may be sown in areas of sun to partial shade, although to boost the production of essential oils, full sun exposure is most advantageous.
How to Use Red Raripila Mints
Like most mint varieties, red raripila mint is excellent brewed as a tea and can be used fresh or dried. The flavor of red raripila mint is reminiscent of spearmint and has the resulting refreshing taste and similarity of use. The essential oils derived from red raripila mint plants are used in everything from ice cream to beverages and are extremely popular in Northern and Central Europe and down under in Australia to flavor fresh peas or mint jelly for the lamb and mutton dishes popular in those countries. These essential oils are also offensive to rats and mice, so it has also been spread in granaries and other areas of grain storage to discourage the rodent population. Medicinal uses have been associated with this plant as well. The oils from red raripila mint are thought to aid in digestive distress and are often used for their antiseptic properties. As with many mint species, red raripila has been used in the treatment of headaches, fevers, digestive distress and other minor medical issues. Chewing on the leaves will also, like spearmint, freshen one’s breath.
Like all other members of the mint family, red raripila mint plants’ essential oils should be limited or avoided by pregnant women as the ingestion has been known to trigger miscarriages.
Red Raripila Mint Information
Pollinated and extremely popular to bees and butterflies makes the red raripila mint extremely susceptible to cross hybridization. Growing red raripila mint plants are, however, not attractive to deer, making them a nice addition to rural landscapes. Red raripila mint is also a great companion plant to vegetable crops such as cabbages and tomatoes as they act as a deterrent to troublesome insect pests.
As mentioned, it may be a bit more of a challenge to obtain these plants in North America, but if one does obtain seed, be aware that this little hybrid is generally sterile and thus, the seed will usually not breed true. If, however, seed is acquired, it may be sown in the spring in a cold frame and has a relatively quick germination. Once the red raripila plants attain some size, transplant them to pots or other restrictive growing area. Red raripila mint is easily divisible and should be done in spring or fall, although the plant is fairly tolerant of division most any time of the year. Any portion of the root is capable of creating a new plant and will establish rapidly with a limited amount of fuss.
Care of Red Raripila Mint
Care of red raripila plants, as for all mint varieties, is fairly simple. Like all mint plants, red raripila plants are aggressive spreaders once established and should be planted either in pots or a confined area. Easy to grow, this little perennial succeeds in most any type of soil as long as it is not too arid, including heavily clay laden soils. Care of red raripila mint includes a slightly acidic soil. Growing red raripila mint plants may be sown in areas of sun to partial shade, although to boost the production of essential oils, full sun exposure is most advantageous.
How to Use Red Raripila Mints
Like most mint varieties, red raripila mint is excellent brewed as a tea and can be used fresh or dried. The flavor of red raripila mint is reminiscent of spearmint and has the resulting refreshing taste and similarity of use. The essential oils derived from red raripila mint plants are used in everything from ice cream to beverages and are extremely popular in Northern and Central Europe and down under in Australia to flavor fresh peas or mint jelly for the lamb and mutton dishes popular in those countries. These essential oils are also offensive to rats and mice, so it has also been spread in granaries and other areas of grain storage to discourage the rodent population. Medicinal uses have been associated with this plant as well. The oils from red raripila mint are thought to aid in digestive distress and are often used for their antiseptic properties. As with many mint species, red raripila has been used in the treatment of headaches, fevers, digestive distress and other minor medical issues. Chewing on the leaves will also, like spearmint, freshen one’s breath.
Like all other members of the mint family, red raripila mint plants’ essential oils should be limited or avoided by pregnant women as the ingestion has been known to trigger miscarriages.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Watermint plants are aquatic to riparian flora. It naturally occurs in northern Europe along waterways, in storm ditches and near rivers and other waterways. Older generations had many thoughts on how to use watermint. It has topical uses, can be made into a tea, helps in natural pest control and other properties. Mentha aquatica, as it is known to botanical students, is abundant in its native range and hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11.
What is Watermint?
Shore plants, like watermint, are important for erosion control, food sources, animal habitat and simple waterline beauty. What is watermint? Growing watermint around the pond will add fragrance in the summer blooming season and attract butterflies and pollinating insects. The midsummer blooms are caps of tiny florets amassed into a larger flower in deep hues of purple to blue, creating a beautiful effect. Watermint has thick dark green leaves tinged with purple, deeply veined and slightly hairy. Like all mints, this plant spreads with long runners, which root at nodes and create daughter plants. It has the tendency to become invasive, so plant in a container to prevent invasive growth.
Growing Watermint
Plant Mentha aquatica along the edges of bodies of water or in shallow water. The plant prefers slightly acidic soil in moist loam. Watermint plants do best in full sun but can also thrive in partial shade. The stems spread out appealingly on top of water and the bright fresh flowers add fragrance and color to the pond or water garden. You can plant the mint directly into the ground but to prevent spreading, try planting in a container with good drainage holes. Sink it directly into the edge of the water so moisture constantly flows around the roots. Watermint has few pest or disease problems, but it tends to get a little rust, so avoid overhead watering in warmer, humid regions. The plant responds favorably to light trimming and will push out thicker growth when cut back. Watermint is a perennial plant that may die back in cold weather but will burst with fresh green growth when temperatures warm.
How to Use Watermint
Watermint plants have topical medicinal properties as a balm for sore muscles and an aid for cleaning wounds. The oils in the leaves add flavor to cooking and baking and leaves add a bright zing to salads. You can dry the leaves for use as a tea, which aids in digestion and calms ulcers. As a natural pesticide, it repels flies and mice seem to avoid the scent of the plant. Mentha aquatica distillations are also refreshing additions to mouthwash, body wash and even lotions. The pure refreshing scent can add a boost to potpourri and as an aromatherapy treatment the plant calms and refreshes. As with all mints, the oils and aroma help relieve stuffy noses and clear the breathing passages. Watermint is a valuable and lovely addition to the garden, with uses beyond medicinal and culinary. Add the oil to cleaning products to freshen the home and enliven the air.
What is Watermint?
Shore plants, like watermint, are important for erosion control, food sources, animal habitat and simple waterline beauty. What is watermint? Growing watermint around the pond will add fragrance in the summer blooming season and attract butterflies and pollinating insects. The midsummer blooms are caps of tiny florets amassed into a larger flower in deep hues of purple to blue, creating a beautiful effect. Watermint has thick dark green leaves tinged with purple, deeply veined and slightly hairy. Like all mints, this plant spreads with long runners, which root at nodes and create daughter plants. It has the tendency to become invasive, so plant in a container to prevent invasive growth.
Growing Watermint
Plant Mentha aquatica along the edges of bodies of water or in shallow water. The plant prefers slightly acidic soil in moist loam. Watermint plants do best in full sun but can also thrive in partial shade. The stems spread out appealingly on top of water and the bright fresh flowers add fragrance and color to the pond or water garden. You can plant the mint directly into the ground but to prevent spreading, try planting in a container with good drainage holes. Sink it directly into the edge of the water so moisture constantly flows around the roots. Watermint has few pest or disease problems, but it tends to get a little rust, so avoid overhead watering in warmer, humid regions. The plant responds favorably to light trimming and will push out thicker growth when cut back. Watermint is a perennial plant that may die back in cold weather but will burst with fresh green growth when temperatures warm.
How to Use Watermint
Watermint plants have topical medicinal properties as a balm for sore muscles and an aid for cleaning wounds. The oils in the leaves add flavor to cooking and baking and leaves add a bright zing to salads. You can dry the leaves for use as a tea, which aids in digestion and calms ulcers. As a natural pesticide, it repels flies and mice seem to avoid the scent of the plant. Mentha aquatica distillations are also refreshing additions to mouthwash, body wash and even lotions. The pure refreshing scent can add a boost to potpourri and as an aromatherapy treatment the plant calms and refreshes. As with all mints, the oils and aroma help relieve stuffy noses and clear the breathing passages. Watermint is a valuable and lovely addition to the garden, with uses beyond medicinal and culinary. Add the oil to cleaning products to freshen the home and enliven the air.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The word “rue” denotes regret, but the rue I want to talk about has nothing to do with regret. Rue is an evergreen shrub in the family Rutaceae. Indigenous to Europe, people have been harvesting rue herbs for centuries to treat a myriad of ailments from insect bites to eye strains to warding off the plague. People were also using rue herbs from the garden in marinades and sauces as well as for their use as a green dye. Read on to find out when to use rue and how to harvest rue.
When to Use Rue Herbs
Rue(Ruta graveolens) has acclimatized to the United States and can be grown in USDA zones 4-9. A fascinating herb, the shrub bears small yellow flowers that, along with its foliage, emit a strong, some say obnoxious fragrance. Interesting in that the genus, Ruta belongs to the family Rutaceae, whose members include aromatic citrus trees. More interestingly, ‘graveolens’ is Latin for “having a strong or offensive smell.”
The less than aromatic odor of the plant makes it useful as a pest deterrent in the garden along with other strong smelling herbs such as sage. But pest deterrent aside, historically, the reason for planting and harvesting rue herbs is medicinal. The volatile oils of the plant’s leaves have been used to treat insect bites while the dried leaves have been used as a sedative to calm stomach cramping and nerves, and to treat warts, poor eyesight, worms and scarlet fever. It was also once used to ward off the plague and heal people that afflicted with witchcraft.
Rue is also known as the ‘herb of grace’ and ‘herb of repentance’ due to its use in some Catholic rituals. Michelangelo and Leonardo de Vinci both used the herb regularly for its purported ability to improve eyesight as well as creativity. Medicinal uses are not the only reason for harvesting rue herbs in the garden. Although the leaves have a bitter flavor, both the fresh and dried foliage have been used in not only perfumes, but in foods of all sorts, and the ancient Romans used the seeds of the perennial in their cooking. Today, rue is grown primarily as an ornamental in the garden or as part of a dried flower arrangement.
How to Harvest Rue
Rue can be toxic when taken internally; too much of it can cause severe stomach cramping. Just as it is toxic internally, contact with the stringent leaf oils can cause blistering, burning and itching of the skin. So when rue herb harvesting, wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants. It’s best to harvest rue before it flowers since once the plant flowers, the essential oils diminish. Harvest rue in the early morning when the essential oils are at their peak. The cuttings can then be used immediately, dried or kept for use for up to a week. To keep rue for up to a week, place the freshly cut stem in a glass of water on the counter, out of the sun or in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp towel and placed in a sealed plastic bag.
When to Use Rue Herbs
Rue(Ruta graveolens) has acclimatized to the United States and can be grown in USDA zones 4-9. A fascinating herb, the shrub bears small yellow flowers that, along with its foliage, emit a strong, some say obnoxious fragrance. Interesting in that the genus, Ruta belongs to the family Rutaceae, whose members include aromatic citrus trees. More interestingly, ‘graveolens’ is Latin for “having a strong or offensive smell.”
The less than aromatic odor of the plant makes it useful as a pest deterrent in the garden along with other strong smelling herbs such as sage. But pest deterrent aside, historically, the reason for planting and harvesting rue herbs is medicinal. The volatile oils of the plant’s leaves have been used to treat insect bites while the dried leaves have been used as a sedative to calm stomach cramping and nerves, and to treat warts, poor eyesight, worms and scarlet fever. It was also once used to ward off the plague and heal people that afflicted with witchcraft.
Rue is also known as the ‘herb of grace’ and ‘herb of repentance’ due to its use in some Catholic rituals. Michelangelo and Leonardo de Vinci both used the herb regularly for its purported ability to improve eyesight as well as creativity. Medicinal uses are not the only reason for harvesting rue herbs in the garden. Although the leaves have a bitter flavor, both the fresh and dried foliage have been used in not only perfumes, but in foods of all sorts, and the ancient Romans used the seeds of the perennial in their cooking. Today, rue is grown primarily as an ornamental in the garden or as part of a dried flower arrangement.
How to Harvest Rue
Rue can be toxic when taken internally; too much of it can cause severe stomach cramping. Just as it is toxic internally, contact with the stringent leaf oils can cause blistering, burning and itching of the skin. So when rue herb harvesting, wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants. It’s best to harvest rue before it flowers since once the plant flowers, the essential oils diminish. Harvest rue in the early morning when the essential oils are at their peak. The cuttings can then be used immediately, dried or kept for use for up to a week. To keep rue for up to a week, place the freshly cut stem in a glass of water on the counter, out of the sun or in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp towel and placed in a sealed plastic bag.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Peppergrass weeds, also known as perennial pepperweed plants, are imports from southeastern Europe and Asia. The weeds are invasive and quickly form dense stands that push out desirable native plants. Getting rid of peppergrass is very difficult since each plant produces thousands of seeds and also propagates from root segments. Read on for more perennial pepperweed information including tips for control of pepperweed plants.
Perennial Pepperweed Information
Perennial pepperweed (Lepidium latifolium) is a long-lived herbaceous perennial that is invasive throughout the western United States. It is known by a number of other common names including tall whitetop, perennial peppercress, peppergrass, ironweed and broad-leaved pepperweed. Peppergrass weeds establish quickly since they thrive in a wide range of environments. These include flood plains, pastures, wetlands, riparian areas, roadsides and backyards of residential areas. This weed is a problem throughout California where agencies in charge identify it as a noxious weed of enormous ecological concern.
Getting Rid of Peppergrass
The plants form new shoots from root buds in springtime. They form low-growing rosettes and flowering stems. The flowers produce seeds that mature in mid-summer. Peppergrass control is difficult since peppergrass weeds produce vast amounts of seeds. Their seeds grow quickly if they have enough water. Root segments produce buds that can generate new shoots. Peppergrass weeds store water in their extensive root system. This gives them a competitive advantage over other plants, where they crowd thickly into open areas and wetlands, shouldering out native plants that are beneficial to the environment. They can infest entire waterways and irrigation structures.
Cultural control of pepperweed plants starts with establishing competitive perennial vegetation. If your fields are full of vigorous sod-forming grasses, it will impede the spread of perennial pepperweed. Peppergrass control can also be achieved by planting herbaceous perennials in close rows, using shade trees and applying fabric or plastic mulches. You can also remove young plants by hand pulling them out. Burning is a good way of getting rid of accumulated thatch. Mowing is also useful for breaking up the mass of pepperweed, but it must be combined with herbicides. Otherwise, it produces new growth. Several herbicides available in commerce will control peppergrass weeds. You may have to apply them several times a year for several years to get rid of a dense buildup.
Perennial Pepperweed Information
Perennial pepperweed (Lepidium latifolium) is a long-lived herbaceous perennial that is invasive throughout the western United States. It is known by a number of other common names including tall whitetop, perennial peppercress, peppergrass, ironweed and broad-leaved pepperweed. Peppergrass weeds establish quickly since they thrive in a wide range of environments. These include flood plains, pastures, wetlands, riparian areas, roadsides and backyards of residential areas. This weed is a problem throughout California where agencies in charge identify it as a noxious weed of enormous ecological concern.
Getting Rid of Peppergrass
The plants form new shoots from root buds in springtime. They form low-growing rosettes and flowering stems. The flowers produce seeds that mature in mid-summer. Peppergrass control is difficult since peppergrass weeds produce vast amounts of seeds. Their seeds grow quickly if they have enough water. Root segments produce buds that can generate new shoots. Peppergrass weeds store water in their extensive root system. This gives them a competitive advantage over other plants, where they crowd thickly into open areas and wetlands, shouldering out native plants that are beneficial to the environment. They can infest entire waterways and irrigation structures.
Cultural control of pepperweed plants starts with establishing competitive perennial vegetation. If your fields are full of vigorous sod-forming grasses, it will impede the spread of perennial pepperweed. Peppergrass control can also be achieved by planting herbaceous perennials in close rows, using shade trees and applying fabric or plastic mulches. You can also remove young plants by hand pulling them out. Burning is a good way of getting rid of accumulated thatch. Mowing is also useful for breaking up the mass of pepperweed, but it must be combined with herbicides. Otherwise, it produces new growth. Several herbicides available in commerce will control peppergrass weeds. You may have to apply them several times a year for several years to get rid of a dense buildup.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Rumored to be what Mary laid upon as she gave birth to Jesus, lady’s bedstraw is also called our lady’s bedstraw. While there is no proof that lady’s bedstraw was in the manger with Mary, Joseph and Jesus that night, it is native to Europe, The Middle East and Asia. Due to its importance as an herb, lady’s bedstraw was brought to North America by early immigrants and has naturalized throughout the United States. In this article, I will cover the herbal uses of lady’s bedstraw, as well as how to grow lady’s bedstraw.
Lady’s Bedstraw Plant Info
Lady’s bedstraw plant (Galium verum) is a perennial herb hardy in zones 3-8. Lady’s bedstraw is one of over 400 varieties of Galium. Perhaps the most popular variety is Galium odoratum, commonly known as sweet woodruff, and the most annoying variety goes by goosegrass, sticky willy or cleavers (Galium aparine).
Lady’s bedstraw has a creeping habit and whorls of 6-12 hairy, almost needlelike, long leaves. Unlike its cousin sticky willy, these hairy leaves do not catch and stick to you if you walk through them, but like sticky willy, lady’s bedstraw has clusters of small yellow flowers that bloom from June – September. And like sweet woodruff, the flowers of lady’s bedstraw are highly fragrant because they contain a chemical known as coumarin. The scent is described as being a cross between vanilla and freshly cut hay. As dried flowers, the scent of lady’s bedstraw flowers lasts a long time.
Uses of Lady’s Bedstraw
Long before man-made fibers, mattresses and pillows were stuffed with organic materials. Lady’s bedstraw was often used as stuffing for beds. Because of its association with the Virgin Mary, it was considered good luck to use lady’s bedstraw in the mattresses of expecting mothers. Lady’s bedstraw herbs were also used as dyes. The yellow flowers were used to make a yellow dye for butter, cheese, hair and textiles; the red roots were also used to make a deep red dye. Lady’s bedstraw is sometimes called cheese rennet because it contains a chemical that curdles milk and was used in cheese making. Besides mattress stuffing, dye and cheese making, lady’s bedstraw plant was used as a traditional herb to treat burns, wounds, rashes and other skin disorders. It was also used to treat epilepsy and the root is reportedly a flea repellent.
How to Grow Lady’s Bedstraw Herbs
Lady’s bedstraw herbs will grow in full sun to part shade. They are not picky about soil type and can thrive in loam, sand, clay or chalk. They do prefer soil that is alkaline to neutral, though. Once established, lady’s bedstraw will be drought tolerant. However, the plant can spread like mad and become invasive. To keep it in check, try growing lady’s bedstraw in pots or at least in areas where the will not choke out other plants in the garden.
Lady’s Bedstraw Plant Info
Lady’s bedstraw plant (Galium verum) is a perennial herb hardy in zones 3-8. Lady’s bedstraw is one of over 400 varieties of Galium. Perhaps the most popular variety is Galium odoratum, commonly known as sweet woodruff, and the most annoying variety goes by goosegrass, sticky willy or cleavers (Galium aparine).
Lady’s bedstraw has a creeping habit and whorls of 6-12 hairy, almost needlelike, long leaves. Unlike its cousin sticky willy, these hairy leaves do not catch and stick to you if you walk through them, but like sticky willy, lady’s bedstraw has clusters of small yellow flowers that bloom from June – September. And like sweet woodruff, the flowers of lady’s bedstraw are highly fragrant because they contain a chemical known as coumarin. The scent is described as being a cross between vanilla and freshly cut hay. As dried flowers, the scent of lady’s bedstraw flowers lasts a long time.
Uses of Lady’s Bedstraw
Long before man-made fibers, mattresses and pillows were stuffed with organic materials. Lady’s bedstraw was often used as stuffing for beds. Because of its association with the Virgin Mary, it was considered good luck to use lady’s bedstraw in the mattresses of expecting mothers. Lady’s bedstraw herbs were also used as dyes. The yellow flowers were used to make a yellow dye for butter, cheese, hair and textiles; the red roots were also used to make a deep red dye. Lady’s bedstraw is sometimes called cheese rennet because it contains a chemical that curdles milk and was used in cheese making. Besides mattress stuffing, dye and cheese making, lady’s bedstraw plant was used as a traditional herb to treat burns, wounds, rashes and other skin disorders. It was also used to treat epilepsy and the root is reportedly a flea repellent.
How to Grow Lady’s Bedstraw Herbs
Lady’s bedstraw herbs will grow in full sun to part shade. They are not picky about soil type and can thrive in loam, sand, clay or chalk. They do prefer soil that is alkaline to neutral, though. Once established, lady’s bedstraw will be drought tolerant. However, the plant can spread like mad and become invasive. To keep it in check, try growing lady’s bedstraw in pots or at least in areas where the will not choke out other plants in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
The fennel herb (Foeniculum vulgare) has a long and varied history of use. The Egyptians and the Chinese used it strictly for medicinal purposes and their lore was brought back to Europe by early traders. During the Middle Ages, it was believed to hold magical qualities and people hung fennel plants over their doors to drive away evil spirits. Eventually, someone recognized its use as a flavoring for eggs and fish. Today, its crisp anise flavor makes it a favorite of cooks everywhere. Native to southern Europe, the fennel herb is now naturalized throughout Europe, North America and Australia and grown in gardens all over the world.
Planting Fennel
You’ll find two methods of propagation when researching how to grow fennel. Plants may be divided, but this isn’t as easy as it is with other garden plants and often proves unsatisfactory. Like their aforementioned cousins, the fennel herb has a long tap root that doesn’t like to be divided or moved. Planting fennel by seed is the much easier option. Seed can be sown as soon as the soil warms in the spring. Soaking your seeds for a day or two before sowing will ensure better germination. Keep the area moist until the seeds sprout and thin the fennel plants to 12 to 18 inches apart when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Plants will begin flowering about 90 days after planting.
Growing Fennel
The steps for how to grow fennel are fairly simple since the fennel herb is such an agreeable garden plant. It belongs to the carrot and parsley family and is a cousin to other herbs such as caraway, dill and cumin. Like these other herbs, fennel plants produce aromatic fruits which are commonly, though incorrectly, referred to as seeds. When growing fennel, choose a sunny location in the back of a well drained bed. The fine textured foliage can grow up to 6 feet tall and makes an excellent backdrop for other flower planting. Fennel is a short lived perennial that blooms best in the second year. It readily re-seeds and while not considered invasive, it has certainly earned its reputation for aggressive growing. Fennel can be cut back early in the season to encourage bushier growth and should be deadheaded for seed harvest and to prevent over seeding of new plants.
Harvest and dry seeds as the flower heads fade. There’s only one restriction to how to grow fennel: don’t plant it near dill. Cross pollination results in strangely flavored seeds for both plants! Once established, fennel herb doesn’t need much care. It prefers acid soil, appreciates the occasional dose of mild fertilizer and a little additional water if the weather is hot and dry. In addition to its kitchen contributions, planting fennel will attract beneficial insects to the garden and its leaves are a favorite with the caterpillars of the swallowtail butterfly. Whether grown for its culinary value or strictly as on ornamental, growing fennel herb will be an easy and attractive addition to your garden.
Planting Fennel
You’ll find two methods of propagation when researching how to grow fennel. Plants may be divided, but this isn’t as easy as it is with other garden plants and often proves unsatisfactory. Like their aforementioned cousins, the fennel herb has a long tap root that doesn’t like to be divided or moved. Planting fennel by seed is the much easier option. Seed can be sown as soon as the soil warms in the spring. Soaking your seeds for a day or two before sowing will ensure better germination. Keep the area moist until the seeds sprout and thin the fennel plants to 12 to 18 inches apart when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Plants will begin flowering about 90 days after planting.
Growing Fennel
The steps for how to grow fennel are fairly simple since the fennel herb is such an agreeable garden plant. It belongs to the carrot and parsley family and is a cousin to other herbs such as caraway, dill and cumin. Like these other herbs, fennel plants produce aromatic fruits which are commonly, though incorrectly, referred to as seeds. When growing fennel, choose a sunny location in the back of a well drained bed. The fine textured foliage can grow up to 6 feet tall and makes an excellent backdrop for other flower planting. Fennel is a short lived perennial that blooms best in the second year. It readily re-seeds and while not considered invasive, it has certainly earned its reputation for aggressive growing. Fennel can be cut back early in the season to encourage bushier growth and should be deadheaded for seed harvest and to prevent over seeding of new plants.
Harvest and dry seeds as the flower heads fade. There’s only one restriction to how to grow fennel: don’t plant it near dill. Cross pollination results in strangely flavored seeds for both plants! Once established, fennel herb doesn’t need much care. It prefers acid soil, appreciates the occasional dose of mild fertilizer and a little additional water if the weather is hot and dry. In addition to its kitchen contributions, planting fennel will attract beneficial insects to the garden and its leaves are a favorite with the caterpillars of the swallowtail butterfly. Whether grown for its culinary value or strictly as on ornamental, growing fennel herb will be an easy and attractive addition to your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Watercress is a sun-loving perennial that grows along running waterways, such as streams. It has a peppery taste that is delicious in salad mixes and is especially popular in Europe. Watercress is high in iron, calcium and folic acid and is also rich in vitamins A and C. If you love the flavor of this green, you may be wondering if you can grow container watercress herbs and, if so, how do you grow watercress in pots?
How Do You Grow Watercress in Pots?
If you have a water feature in the garden, it is a great place for growing watercress in containers, as you are able to mimic the native watery conditions in which cress thrives. You may also grow container watercress herbs in a bucket with 2 to 3 inches of water, allowing the soil to stay saturated. The key is to keep the roots submerged under water. The water should be changed once or twice a week.
While watercress will do well in a variety of soil conditions, its ideal range is between a pH of 6.5-7.5. Potted watercress plants should use a soilless mix containing perlite or vermiculite combined with peat. Use a saucer beneath the plant and keep it filled with water to provide constant moisture. Watercress can be propagated via stem cuttings or sown from seeds. Sow the seed just below the surface, about ¼ inch, three weeks before the last frost-free date in your region. It is important to keep the soil of potted watercress plants moist or the plant will not germinate. Seeds can be germinated inside or out in cool, 50 to 60 F. (10 to 16 C.), and wet conditions. Space the plants 8 inches apart when transplanting and place in a sunny outdoor area.
Some recommended varieties of watercress are:
Garden cress, Curly cress and Peppergrass (annuals)
Winter cress (biennial)
Big Leaf cress (perennial)
Care of Potted Watercress
Care of potted watercress is fairly simple, provided the plant is kept wet. Watercress doesn’t have high nutrient needs, although it may become deficient in phosphorus, potassium or iron. Phosphate deficiencies appear as stunted and dark colored foliage while potassium deficiencies create scorching on older leaves. Yellowing, often in winter, may indicate an iron deficiency. To combat these, mix a water soluble fertilizer in with the water according to the recommended rates.
A few pests such as whitefly, spider mites, and snails may assault your potted watercress plants. Insecticidal soap can control whitefly and natural predators such as lady beetles, predatory mites and thrips can control spider mites. Snails can be trapped or picked off by hand. The tiny, dime-sized leaves of the watercress can be harvested throughout the year. The flavor is best during the cooler months of the year and lessens in flavor once the plant has flowered or temps rise above 85 F (30 C.). Harvest watercress by cutting the plant back to 4 inches and then allow it to re-grow. The leaves can be refrigerated for about a week but are best used fresh for culinary or medicinal purposes.
How Do You Grow Watercress in Pots?
If you have a water feature in the garden, it is a great place for growing watercress in containers, as you are able to mimic the native watery conditions in which cress thrives. You may also grow container watercress herbs in a bucket with 2 to 3 inches of water, allowing the soil to stay saturated. The key is to keep the roots submerged under water. The water should be changed once or twice a week.
While watercress will do well in a variety of soil conditions, its ideal range is between a pH of 6.5-7.5. Potted watercress plants should use a soilless mix containing perlite or vermiculite combined with peat. Use a saucer beneath the plant and keep it filled with water to provide constant moisture. Watercress can be propagated via stem cuttings or sown from seeds. Sow the seed just below the surface, about ¼ inch, three weeks before the last frost-free date in your region. It is important to keep the soil of potted watercress plants moist or the plant will not germinate. Seeds can be germinated inside or out in cool, 50 to 60 F. (10 to 16 C.), and wet conditions. Space the plants 8 inches apart when transplanting and place in a sunny outdoor area.
Some recommended varieties of watercress are:
Garden cress, Curly cress and Peppergrass (annuals)
Winter cress (biennial)
Big Leaf cress (perennial)
Care of Potted Watercress
Care of potted watercress is fairly simple, provided the plant is kept wet. Watercress doesn’t have high nutrient needs, although it may become deficient in phosphorus, potassium or iron. Phosphate deficiencies appear as stunted and dark colored foliage while potassium deficiencies create scorching on older leaves. Yellowing, often in winter, may indicate an iron deficiency. To combat these, mix a water soluble fertilizer in with the water according to the recommended rates.
A few pests such as whitefly, spider mites, and snails may assault your potted watercress plants. Insecticidal soap can control whitefly and natural predators such as lady beetles, predatory mites and thrips can control spider mites. Snails can be trapped or picked off by hand. The tiny, dime-sized leaves of the watercress can be harvested throughout the year. The flavor is best during the cooler months of the year and lessens in flavor once the plant has flowered or temps rise above 85 F (30 C.). Harvest watercress by cutting the plant back to 4 inches and then allow it to re-grow. The leaves can be refrigerated for about a week but are best used fresh for culinary or medicinal purposes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Tutsan is the larger flowered variety of Hypericum, or St. John’s Wort. It is native to western and southern Europe and from the Mediterranean to Iran. It was a common medicinal plant. Regional gardeners were growing Tutsan shrubs to make tinctures that cured all sorts of ills. Today, it is a spectacular deciduous flowering shrub that makes its best showing in June to August with large attractive berries following into September.
Tutsan Plant Info
If you are looking for an easy-to-grow, showy plant with several seasons of interest, look no further than Tutsan St. John’s Wort. The plant is fast growing and can even be sheared severely, giving it a refreshed look in spring. It is a high ground cover that may get 3 feet tall with a similar spread. Mass plantings of Tutsan flowers evoke woodsy appeal in even the most manicured of landscapes.
Tutsan St. John’s Wort is an ancient herb with ornamental appeal. Are Tutsan and St John’s Wort the same? They are both forms of Hypericum but Tutsan has larger floral displays than the Hypericum peiforatum, the wild form of the plant. Tutsan is classed as Hypericum androsaemum. An interesting bit of Tutsan plant info, states that this Hypericum’s leaves were apparently gathered and burned to ward off evil spirits on the eve of St. John’s Day. It has also been used since ancient times to treat wounds and inflammation. You can find it growing wild in damp woods and hedges, rambling around trees and other taller bushes. Tutsan comes from the French words “tout” (all) and “sain” (healthy), an apparent reference to the plant’s use as a healing compound.
Growing Tutsan Shrubs
Tutsan shrubs produce oval to oblong, 4-inch long leaves of glossy green often adorned with rusty hues. Tutsan flowers are 5 petaled, golden yellow and star shaped with bushy yellow stamens. These give way to small round, red fruits that become black with age. Flowers, seeds and leaves have a camphor-like odor when crushed or bruised. Tutsan seems to take to any soil type so long as it is well draining and any pH, even alkaline. It prefers shady to semi-shaded locations that mimic its natural positioning at the base of woods but can also thrive in sun. Plant seeds in fall or take hardwood cuttings in summer.
Tutsan Care
Hypericum are hardy plants suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 10. Keep this species moist but not boggy. Rust is a common issue but it is relatively unbothered by insects and other disease. Cut the plant back hard in fall for better spring displays. In cold regions, apply a few inches of mulch around cut plants to protect roots from freezes. Other than that, Tutsan care is practically effortless. Enjoy the frilled golden blooms and bright berries as another performance winner and seasonal eye candy.
Tutsan Plant Info
If you are looking for an easy-to-grow, showy plant with several seasons of interest, look no further than Tutsan St. John’s Wort. The plant is fast growing and can even be sheared severely, giving it a refreshed look in spring. It is a high ground cover that may get 3 feet tall with a similar spread. Mass plantings of Tutsan flowers evoke woodsy appeal in even the most manicured of landscapes.
Tutsan St. John’s Wort is an ancient herb with ornamental appeal. Are Tutsan and St John’s Wort the same? They are both forms of Hypericum but Tutsan has larger floral displays than the Hypericum peiforatum, the wild form of the plant. Tutsan is classed as Hypericum androsaemum. An interesting bit of Tutsan plant info, states that this Hypericum’s leaves were apparently gathered and burned to ward off evil spirits on the eve of St. John’s Day. It has also been used since ancient times to treat wounds and inflammation. You can find it growing wild in damp woods and hedges, rambling around trees and other taller bushes. Tutsan comes from the French words “tout” (all) and “sain” (healthy), an apparent reference to the plant’s use as a healing compound.
Growing Tutsan Shrubs
Tutsan shrubs produce oval to oblong, 4-inch long leaves of glossy green often adorned with rusty hues. Tutsan flowers are 5 petaled, golden yellow and star shaped with bushy yellow stamens. These give way to small round, red fruits that become black with age. Flowers, seeds and leaves have a camphor-like odor when crushed or bruised. Tutsan seems to take to any soil type so long as it is well draining and any pH, even alkaline. It prefers shady to semi-shaded locations that mimic its natural positioning at the base of woods but can also thrive in sun. Plant seeds in fall or take hardwood cuttings in summer.
Tutsan Care
Hypericum are hardy plants suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 10. Keep this species moist but not boggy. Rust is a common issue but it is relatively unbothered by insects and other disease. Cut the plant back hard in fall for better spring displays. In cold regions, apply a few inches of mulch around cut plants to protect roots from freezes. Other than that, Tutsan care is practically effortless. Enjoy the frilled golden blooms and bright berries as another performance winner and seasonal eye candy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Salad burnet plant is a Mediterranean native with hardy tolerance. It is a perennial herb, which is naturalized in Europe and North America. Salad burnet herb is a member of the rose family and is used as an erosion control, salad green and used for flavoring in vinegars and sauces. There are also old cosmetic and medicinal applications for the plant. Salad burnet is easy to grow and makes a useful addition to the herb garden or perennial bed.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A native of southern Europe and Asia, the saffron crocus is unique among the 75 other crocus species. Its formal name of Crocus sativus is derived from the Latin meaning “cultivated.” Indeed, it has a long history of cultivation dating back to its use by Egyptian physicians in 1600 BC for medicinal purposes. Let’s learn more about saffron crocus harvesting and its uses today.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Arguably one of the most popular herbs, basil is a tender annual herb native to the southern regions of Europe and Asia. Just as with most herbs, basil thrives in sunny locations that receive at least six to eight hours of light per day. Since this is critical when growing basil, you may wonder, “Does basil like cold weather?” Read on to learn more.
Does Basil Like Cold Weather?
Basil is an easy and popular herb to grow, especially common or sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). This member of the mint family is grown for its sweetly scented leaves used either fresh or dried that compliment a variety of foods. A member of the mint or Lamiaceae family, basil is usually grown as a tender annual. Generally, its growth cycle doesn’t include overwintering; rather it dies down and the hard seeds wait in the ground over winter and then germinate during the spring thaw. When temperatures dip, basil suffers cold damage almost immediately in the form of blackened leaves. Therefore, basil and cold weather do not gibe. If, however, you are the lucky owner of a greenhouse or live in a region where temps may dip but long hours of sun prevail, it is possible to try and over winter your basil baby indoors.
Basil Cold Hardiness
The cold tolerance of basil begins to suffer when the mercury drops into the 40’s but really affects the plant at 32 degrees F. (0 C.). The herb may not die, but basil cold damage will be in evidence. Keep in mind the cold tolerance of basil and wait until overnight lows are above 50 degrees F. (10 C.) before setting out transplants. If you set them out prior to temps in the 50’s, you’ll either have to dig them back up or cover them to protect this tender herb from cold snaps. It is also advisable to mulch 2-3 inches of grass clippings, straw, compost or ground up leaves around the basil plants. This will aid in retaining moisture and retarding weeds, but also protect the plant a bit in the event of a sudden, short cold snap. You can also cover the tops of the plants, down to the soil to help trap heat. If the cold snap really drops the mercury, a string of Christmas lights beneath the covered basil plants will help retain some heat under their covering. There may be some minor basil cold damage, but the plants will likely survive.
Basil and Cold Weather
Once the mercury falls into the 50’s and it seems that it is likely to continue to dip, make a plan for the basil plants. You may just choose to harvest as many leaves as possible and dry or freeze them. Or, if there is plenty of sunshine during daylight hours and temps are over 50 degrees F. (10 C.) but dip down at night, leave the basil outside during the day and then move it indoors at night. This is a temporary situation and will prolong the life of the plant, but it will eventually expire as temperatures continue to drop. Lastly, you may want to try to get the basil to survive the winter so you will have fresh leaves year round. In this case, you will need to pot the basil and bring it inside. Remember, basil requires lots of light — six to eight hours of direct sun or ten to 12 hours under artificial light. Also, basil is still an annual and as such, it will eventually flower and die, even when brought indoors. That is its life cycle. Additionally, if you do not have the light or space to try and over winter the herb, you can take tip cuttings from the basil and root them in small containers kept on the windowsill. You’ll have to keep an eye on the cuttings, as they tend to grow towards the light and may come in contact with a frosty window, which will result in blackened leaves.
Does Basil Like Cold Weather?
Basil is an easy and popular herb to grow, especially common or sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). This member of the mint family is grown for its sweetly scented leaves used either fresh or dried that compliment a variety of foods. A member of the mint or Lamiaceae family, basil is usually grown as a tender annual. Generally, its growth cycle doesn’t include overwintering; rather it dies down and the hard seeds wait in the ground over winter and then germinate during the spring thaw. When temperatures dip, basil suffers cold damage almost immediately in the form of blackened leaves. Therefore, basil and cold weather do not gibe. If, however, you are the lucky owner of a greenhouse or live in a region where temps may dip but long hours of sun prevail, it is possible to try and over winter your basil baby indoors.
Basil Cold Hardiness
The cold tolerance of basil begins to suffer when the mercury drops into the 40’s but really affects the plant at 32 degrees F. (0 C.). The herb may not die, but basil cold damage will be in evidence. Keep in mind the cold tolerance of basil and wait until overnight lows are above 50 degrees F. (10 C.) before setting out transplants. If you set them out prior to temps in the 50’s, you’ll either have to dig them back up or cover them to protect this tender herb from cold snaps. It is also advisable to mulch 2-3 inches of grass clippings, straw, compost or ground up leaves around the basil plants. This will aid in retaining moisture and retarding weeds, but also protect the plant a bit in the event of a sudden, short cold snap. You can also cover the tops of the plants, down to the soil to help trap heat. If the cold snap really drops the mercury, a string of Christmas lights beneath the covered basil plants will help retain some heat under their covering. There may be some minor basil cold damage, but the plants will likely survive.
Basil and Cold Weather
Once the mercury falls into the 50’s and it seems that it is likely to continue to dip, make a plan for the basil plants. You may just choose to harvest as many leaves as possible and dry or freeze them. Or, if there is plenty of sunshine during daylight hours and temps are over 50 degrees F. (10 C.) but dip down at night, leave the basil outside during the day and then move it indoors at night. This is a temporary situation and will prolong the life of the plant, but it will eventually expire as temperatures continue to drop. Lastly, you may want to try to get the basil to survive the winter so you will have fresh leaves year round. In this case, you will need to pot the basil and bring it inside. Remember, basil requires lots of light — six to eight hours of direct sun or ten to 12 hours under artificial light. Also, basil is still an annual and as such, it will eventually flower and die, even when brought indoors. That is its life cycle. Additionally, if you do not have the light or space to try and over winter the herb, you can take tip cuttings from the basil and root them in small containers kept on the windowsill. You’ll have to keep an eye on the cuttings, as they tend to grow towards the light and may come in contact with a frosty window, which will result in blackened leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The world's obsession with roses as symbols of love and devotion has been around for thousands of years. From Europe to China to the Middle East, roses grow all over the world. In great demand, many different types and colors of roses have been cultivated. For those who want to say something with the flowers they give, roses have special meanings assigned to each color.
History
Ever since the Roman Empire, roses have been used to communicate feelings. However, according to Rose Works, the meaning of roses has changed over the centuries. Some cultures offered different meanings than others. During the Victorian era, roses began to represent hidden messages because of social restrictions on what was permissible to be spoken in public.
Meaning
Studies of Love states that cream-colored roses are associated with charm, thoughtfulness and gracefulness. Cream-colored roses also represent richness and perfection, according to What Roses Mean.
Significance
Because a cream-colored rose does not signify love or passion, it is a rose that can be used for many different occasions. If a person simply wants to tell a friend that he is charming or that his thoughtfulness is appreciated, a cream-colored rose sends the message without indicating romantic feelings.
Uses
Cream-colored roses can be paired with pink "thank you" roses. This would be a perfect gift to a hostess who has shown thoughtfulness in inviting you into her home. Or consider giving them to a loved one who may be lonely or going through a hard time as a gesture that she is charming to you. Don't forget to include a note explaining the meaning of the roses you are giving.
Types
For those interested in growing their own symbols of charm and thoughtfulness, there are many varieties of cream-colored roses. Remember that a cream-colored rose is not quite the same as a white rose; they are considered different varieties (and mean different things). Some of these roses will vary in creaminess with hues of yellow, pink, or white mixed in. Some good varieties to try are Irish Hope (which is a mix between a yellow and a cream), Lion's Fairy Tale, Cream Abundance, or French Lace.
History
Ever since the Roman Empire, roses have been used to communicate feelings. However, according to Rose Works, the meaning of roses has changed over the centuries. Some cultures offered different meanings than others. During the Victorian era, roses began to represent hidden messages because of social restrictions on what was permissible to be spoken in public.
Meaning
Studies of Love states that cream-colored roses are associated with charm, thoughtfulness and gracefulness. Cream-colored roses also represent richness and perfection, according to What Roses Mean.
Significance
Because a cream-colored rose does not signify love or passion, it is a rose that can be used for many different occasions. If a person simply wants to tell a friend that he is charming or that his thoughtfulness is appreciated, a cream-colored rose sends the message without indicating romantic feelings.
Uses
Cream-colored roses can be paired with pink "thank you" roses. This would be a perfect gift to a hostess who has shown thoughtfulness in inviting you into her home. Or consider giving them to a loved one who may be lonely or going through a hard time as a gesture that she is charming to you. Don't forget to include a note explaining the meaning of the roses you are giving.
Types
For those interested in growing their own symbols of charm and thoughtfulness, there are many varieties of cream-colored roses. Remember that a cream-colored rose is not quite the same as a white rose; they are considered different varieties (and mean different things). Some of these roses will vary in creaminess with hues of yellow, pink, or white mixed in. Some good varieties to try are Irish Hope (which is a mix between a yellow and a cream), Lion's Fairy Tale, Cream Abundance, or French Lace.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
This orchid is the most commonly found of the Coralroot Orchids that occur in the Pacific Northwest of America. It shares territory with the only species of Coralroot Orchid that is found in Europe, namely Corallorhiza trifida. In America the latter is known as Early Coralroot Orchid, while in Europe it is known simply as Coralroot Orchid due to its sole representation of the genus there.
Description
This colourful plant grows up to 60cm in height and has up to 40 dark red-to-purple flowers in its tall inflorescence.
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - although digging up a plant to confirm its identification is, of course, strictly illegal and so we have never seen this underground feature.
Distribution
Western Coralroot Orchid occurs from the Pacific Northwest to northwestern California and through most of British Columbia; it also grows in Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.
Habitat
This attractive orchid occurs mainly in dark or partially shaded coniferous and broadleaved forests. Although it produces some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), this orchid is largely saprophytic, depending mainly for its food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding its roots. Coralroot orchids are capable of self-pollination.
In America Corallorhiza mertensiana is distributed from southern Alaska south to California, and east to Montana and western Wyoming.
Flowering times
Western Spotted Coralroot Orchid flowers in June and July.
Description
This colourful plant grows up to 60cm in height and has up to 40 dark red-to-purple flowers in its tall inflorescence.
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - although digging up a plant to confirm its identification is, of course, strictly illegal and so we have never seen this underground feature.
Distribution
Western Coralroot Orchid occurs from the Pacific Northwest to northwestern California and through most of British Columbia; it also grows in Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.
Habitat
This attractive orchid occurs mainly in dark or partially shaded coniferous and broadleaved forests. Although it produces some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), this orchid is largely saprophytic, depending mainly for its food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding its roots. Coralroot orchids are capable of self-pollination.
In America Corallorhiza mertensiana is distributed from southern Alaska south to California, and east to Montana and western Wyoming.
Flowering times
Western Spotted Coralroot Orchid flowers in June and July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This lovely creeping wildlflower is the only alpine clematis species to be found in Europe, the others being mainly confined to Asia.
Identification
The size and beauty of the distinctive sky-blue flowers are much more reminiscent of the exotic imported clematis plants that we buy from nurseries to plant in our gardens at home in the UK than of our native species, Clematis vitalba. (The common name of Clematis vitalba, which is Old Man's Beard, describes the fluffy seedheads which are generally better known than the insignificant white flowers that precede them.)
Distribution
Clematis alpina is found throughout Central Europe, and there is a subspecies with white flowers that is found in northern Norway, Finland and also in Poland.
Habitat
Alpine Clematis grows in rocky mountain woodlands and on the edges of pastures where it clambers over other plants, often creating magnificent cascades of flowers.
Blooming times
In its native habitats this wildflower blooms in June and July.
Identification
The size and beauty of the distinctive sky-blue flowers are much more reminiscent of the exotic imported clematis plants that we buy from nurseries to plant in our gardens at home in the UK than of our native species, Clematis vitalba. (The common name of Clematis vitalba, which is Old Man's Beard, describes the fluffy seedheads which are generally better known than the insignificant white flowers that precede them.)
Distribution
Clematis alpina is found throughout Central Europe, and there is a subspecies with white flowers that is found in northern Norway, Finland and also in Poland.
Habitat
Alpine Clematis grows in rocky mountain woodlands and on the edges of pastures where it clambers over other plants, often creating magnificent cascades of flowers.
Blooming times
In its native habitats this wildflower blooms in June and July.
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