成长记
Avacha
2018年02月21日
The plant is feeling the spring coming! It grows in all directions. Maybe next winter we can even see its blossom? 😊🌺 #schlumbergera #growth #Gamora
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成长记
Avacha
2018年01月15日
Start of 2016 was like that (just received the plant as a gift then) #schlumbergera #blossom
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成长记
Fep Pef
2017年12月30日
I now added "Schlumbergera Auray" in my "garden"
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Fep Pef：@muhammed micheal she is nice but growing slowly compared to my other schlumbergera :)
muhammed micheal：Looks perfect
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) do not have the typical requirements of most succulents. Although true cacti, they are epiphytic in nature, growing in the branches of trees in their native tropical forest rain habitats. The need for high humidity, bright but filtered light, and soil kept relatively moist most of the year sets these plants apart from the majority of cacti and succulents.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
La Schlumbergera bridgesii es conocida de forma popular como cactus de Navidad sobre todo por florecer durante el invierno, al menos en el hemisferio Norte claro está. Es originaria de las áreas tropicales de Brasil y curiosamente a pesar de ser un cactus necesita de mucha humedad. Esto se debe a que su medio natural son los bosques tropicales en los que crece sobre los árboles, es por tanto una planta epifita.
Por tanto es una planta que no precisa mucha luz, en su medio natural crece a la sombra de los árboles, necesita mucha humedad y no precisa de descanso invernal. Si dispones de un cactus de Navidad y quieres reproducirlo puedes hacerlo fácilmente con un esqueje de hoja como ocurre con muchas suculentas. Vamos a ver este sencillo proceso que nos permitirá multiplicar nuestro cactus de Navidad en poco tiempo.
Tras la floración, en primavera, es el mejor momento para sacar los esquejes que aprovecharemos de la poda que haremos cuando las flores se estén marchitando. Necesitamos al menos dos secciones de hoja para poder empezar, mejor que sean tres para asegurarnos.
Colocamos la hoja en un recipiente con agua. Dos secciones de la hoja deben quedar cubiertas por el agua. Pondremos el recipiente en un lugar bien luminoso pero donde no reciba sol directo en ningún momento. Dejaremos que las raíces se desarrollen hasta tener una longitud similar a la de la hoja.
Ahora prepararemos una maceta pequeña con 2 partes de sustrato por 1 de arena gruesa o vermiculita. Regamos y dejamos la maceta en un lugar en el que tenga una temperatura de 21ºC aproximadamente durante el día y entre 15 y 18ºC durante la noche.
Trataremos a nuestra pequeña Schlumbergera más como si fuera una planta corriente que como un cactus. Regaremos cuando el sustrato seque casi por completo y la abonaremos mensualmente desde la primavera hasta el otoño con un abono para plantas de interior.
Por tanto es una planta que no precisa mucha luz, en su medio natural crece a la sombra de los árboles, necesita mucha humedad y no precisa de descanso invernal. Si dispones de un cactus de Navidad y quieres reproducirlo puedes hacerlo fácilmente con un esqueje de hoja como ocurre con muchas suculentas. Vamos a ver este sencillo proceso que nos permitirá multiplicar nuestro cactus de Navidad en poco tiempo.
Tras la floración, en primavera, es el mejor momento para sacar los esquejes que aprovecharemos de la poda que haremos cuando las flores se estén marchitando. Necesitamos al menos dos secciones de hoja para poder empezar, mejor que sean tres para asegurarnos.
Colocamos la hoja en un recipiente con agua. Dos secciones de la hoja deben quedar cubiertas por el agua. Pondremos el recipiente en un lugar bien luminoso pero donde no reciba sol directo en ningún momento. Dejaremos que las raíces se desarrollen hasta tener una longitud similar a la de la hoja.
Ahora prepararemos una maceta pequeña con 2 partes de sustrato por 1 de arena gruesa o vermiculita. Regamos y dejamos la maceta en un lugar en el que tenga una temperatura de 21ºC aproximadamente durante el día y entre 15 y 18ºC durante la noche.
Trataremos a nuestra pequeña Schlumbergera más como si fuera una planta corriente que como un cactus. Regaremos cuando el sustrato seque casi por completo y la abonaremos mensualmente desde la primavera hasta el otoño con un abono para plantas de interior.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is a popular winter-flowering houseplant that usually blooms over the holidays at the end of the calendar year. Varieties offer flowers in many different shades. Native to Brazil, Christmas cacti are epiphytes that grow in tree branches in rain forests. Since their stems hang down, they are perfect plants for hanging baskets. If a stem of your mature Christmas cactus is getting woody, it doesn’t mean that anything is amiss. That means that there is no reason to try fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. Read on for more information about woody Christmas cactus.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Many people grow Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii). This plant makes a great holiday gift for friends and family, so knowing how to propagate and grow Christmas cactus can help make this shopping easier and less hectic. Propagating Christmas Cactus
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While the Christmas cactus may be known under various names (like Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus), the scientific name for Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgessii, remains the same – while other plants may differ. This popular, winter-flowering houseplant makes a great addition to nearly any indoor setting. Christmas cactus is not only easy to care for but propagates easily too, making it an exceptional candidate for holiday gift giving. Let’s look at how to how to plant Christmas cactus and care for it.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Schlumbergera, commonly referred to as Christmas cactus, derives its common name from its winter bloom period. Each of the six Christmas cactus species produces a different colored bloom, with red being the most common. As with all cacti and succulents, the Christmas cactus is susceptible to disease. Fungal leaf spots, sooty mold, botrytis and basal stem rot are common diseases associated with this plant. The effects of pests are often mistaken for disease, but pests can often be eradicated. In some cases a diseased plant can be treated. In others, the plant cannot be salvaged.
Fungal Leaf Spots
Step 1
Cut away any infected leaves with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, the infected leaves cannot be rejuvenated. Fungal leaf spots are typically circular or elliptical in shape and develop along the leaves of the plant. The spots are typically black or gray in color.
Step 2
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area.
Step 3
Water the plant at the ground level and only after the soil is allowed to dry completely. Fungal leaf spots develop from water that rests on the leaves and stems for long periods. It is for this reason that you should avoid pouring water directly over Christmas cactus, particularly if the plant is exposed to shade for long periods of time.
Sooty Mold and Botrytis
Step 4
Remove as much soil from the roots as you reasonably can without damaging the root system.
Step 5
Repot the plant with new soil specifically formulated for cactus and succulents.
Step 6
Treat the blackened areas with a systemic fungicide if treating sooty mold and with methylated spirits if treating botrytis.
Step 7
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area if treating botrytis.
Step 8
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.
Basal Stem Rot
Step 9
Cut away any leaves not yet infected with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, a Christmas cactus suffering from basal stem rot cannot be rejuvenated, but healthy leaves can be repotted.
Step 10
Plant the healthy leaves in new soil specifically formulated for cacti and succulents.
Step 11
Apply copper sulfate to the healthy cuttings to guard against basal stem rot.
Pests
Step 12
Identify the type of pest attacking the plant. Mealybugs are identified by their white woolly nests and waxy appearance. The bugs are very small and a gray-white color. Spider mites are red in color and feed on the leaves of the plant. They are very hard to see without a magnifying glass. Look for spider webs with small dots. The dots are the spider mites. Whiteflies closely resemble mealybugs, but do not build nests. Whiteflies excrete honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
Step 13
Move the plant to an area where temperatures exceed 70 degrees F for all pest types. It may be necessary to invest in a small greenhouse if temperatures in direct sunlight do not reach at least 70 degrees. Moving the plant to a warmer environment should eliminate the spider mites.
Step 14
Spray the plant with soapy contact insecticide if treating a plant with mealybugs.
Step 15
Increase the humidity level if the spider mite infestation is extensive and they survive the warmer temperature.
Step 16
Spray whiteflies with an insecticidal spray.
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