文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月03日
The Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a large multi-stemed deciduous shrub that is sometimes trained as a small tree. The growth habit is usually round or oval in shape. The green foliage is 2 to 4 inches long, presenting in an opposite leaf arrangement. As with other dogwoods, there is also opposite branching.
A winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, this shrub features clusters of yellow flowers appearing at the end of winter or early spring, which then lead to edible red fruits. This is one of the earliest shrubs to bloom, with blossoms that unfurl before the leaves. The clusters of yellow flowers are similar in appearance to forsythia, and the red stone fruits (drupes) that ripen in July resemble olives in size and shape. They are used in European cuisine for drinks, syrups, preserves, jams, and sauces. They can be eaten fresh or dried, though they need to be fully ripe in order to lose some of their bitterness.
The leaves of cornelian cherry dogwood may develop some shades of reddish-purple in fall, though the display is not notable. The peeling, exfoliating brown bark adds some four-season interest to the plant. Cornelian cherry dogwood is a fairly slow-growing species that will take up to 10 years to achieve 15 feet in height. It is normally planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Cornus mas
Common Names Cornelian cherry dogwood, cornelian cherry, European cornel
Plant Type Deciduous shrub/ tree
Mature Size 15 to 25 feet tall; 15- to 20-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 8.0 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time March
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Southwestern Asia, Southern Europe
How to Grow Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub will grow suitably in almost any well-drained soil in a location that gets at least 4 hours of sunlight daily. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought or occasional flooding, but will not survive constant soaking in dense soils.
The fruit, while tasty, has a large pit that makes it somewhat laborious to harvest and use in cooking. If you do grow this plant for the fruit, it's best to plant at least two shrubs. Cornelian cherry dogwood is somewhat self-fertile, but the results will be better if there are at least two shrubs to cross-pollinate.
The cornelian cherry dogwood can spread by suckers, so keep the plant in check by removing them promptly.
Light
This shrub prefers a location that offers full sun to part shade. It requires a bit more sun than most dogwoods—less than 4 hours of sun daily will lead to reduced flowering and fruit production.
Soil
Cornelian cherry dogwood is most happy with a well-drained rich soil that has a good amount of humus in it. It will fail to thrive in dense soils that remain constantly wet. While most dogwoods prefer slightly acidic soil, cornelian cherry dogwood can do fine even in slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
This plant has average water needs—it will thrive with about 1 inch of water per week in the form of rainfall and/or irrigation. Make sure the moisture penetrates the soil to a depth of about 6 inches. Once established, this type of dogwood is fairly resilient, bouncing back from being flooded during wet spells or parched during drought.
Temperature and Humidity
Rated for USDA zones 4 to 8, cornelian cherry dogwood will survive temperatures down to minus-25 or minus-30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Like most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is best fertilized once in the early spring, then once about three months later. Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the roots. If you have extremely alkaline soil, using an acidifying fertilizer may help.
Pruning Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub tends to form multiple leader stems, and to control the size you'll need to prune away suckers that appear. To train the plant as a small tree, select a main leader as a trunk, then systematically prune away competing shoots. This species also can be readily pruned to maintain as a hedge plant.
The best timing for hard pruning is immediately after the flowers have faded in spring, but be aware that you'll lose the fruits for that season.
Propagating Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
As with most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is most often propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
Snip 3- to 5-inch cuttings from the tips of green stems, then remove the bottom set of leaves. Cut the other leaves in half, but leave them on the cuttings. Dip the cut ends in a rooting compound, then plant the cuttings in small containers filled with a commercial seed-starter mix or a mixture of perlite and sand.
Place the planted cutting inside a large plastic bag, and place the pot in a bright, warm location. Check the cutting weekly to see if roots have developed (you will feel resistance when tugging on the cutting). When a good network of roots has developed (about 6 weeks), remove the plastic bag, and continue growing the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the potting mix moist. At the point where the cutting outgrows its first pot, you can repot it in a container filled with ordinary potting mix. When it outgrows this second pot, it is ready to plant in the landscape. This process may involve growing the rooted cutting indoors over the winter, then transplanting it outdoors the following spring.
Common Pests/ Diseases
When properly grown in the right conditions, this shrub has few disease or pest issues. While it is not immune to the dogwood anthracnose disease that plagues many types of dogwood, this species is decidedly more resistant to that disease.
The easy-care reputation is lost, though, if a cornelian cherry dogwood becomes unhealthy. Stressed plants can be susceptible to borers; and leaf miner, gall midge, and scale may also become more than just cosmetic problems.
Potential disease problems include leaf spot, crown canker, root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf blight. Here, too, it is stressed trees or those planted in less than ideal circumstances that are most vulnerable.
Varieties of Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
For a shrub with variegated leaves, choose the 'Variegata' or `Elegantissima' cultivars.
If you prefer golden leaves, look for 'Aurea'.
Try 'Nana' if you want a plant that only reaches about 3 feet tall.
For yellow fruit rather than red, plant 'Xanthocarpa' or 'Flava'
'Fructu Violaceo' produces purple fruits.
'Alba' has white fruits.
If you live in the Southern United States, 'Spring Glow' is an excellent choice to handle the conditions found there.
‘Golden Glory’ has extra-large flowers and large fruit, with a more upright branching growth habit.
Landscape Uses
Cornelian cherry dogwood is highly prized for its very early spring blooms. It works well as a hedge, screen, or foundation plant, or can be grouped with other shrubs species in a mixed border. It can also be trained as a small specimen tree. Juxtaposed against a dark green woodland background, the yellow blossoms pop with color.
This form of dogwood is a good choice if you want to lure birds, squirrels, and other animals to your garden, as they love the fruit.
A winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, this shrub features clusters of yellow flowers appearing at the end of winter or early spring, which then lead to edible red fruits. This is one of the earliest shrubs to bloom, with blossoms that unfurl before the leaves. The clusters of yellow flowers are similar in appearance to forsythia, and the red stone fruits (drupes) that ripen in July resemble olives in size and shape. They are used in European cuisine for drinks, syrups, preserves, jams, and sauces. They can be eaten fresh or dried, though they need to be fully ripe in order to lose some of their bitterness.
The leaves of cornelian cherry dogwood may develop some shades of reddish-purple in fall, though the display is not notable. The peeling, exfoliating brown bark adds some four-season interest to the plant. Cornelian cherry dogwood is a fairly slow-growing species that will take up to 10 years to achieve 15 feet in height. It is normally planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Cornus mas
Common Names Cornelian cherry dogwood, cornelian cherry, European cornel
Plant Type Deciduous shrub/ tree
Mature Size 15 to 25 feet tall; 15- to 20-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 8.0 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time March
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Southwestern Asia, Southern Europe
How to Grow Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub will grow suitably in almost any well-drained soil in a location that gets at least 4 hours of sunlight daily. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought or occasional flooding, but will not survive constant soaking in dense soils.
The fruit, while tasty, has a large pit that makes it somewhat laborious to harvest and use in cooking. If you do grow this plant for the fruit, it's best to plant at least two shrubs. Cornelian cherry dogwood is somewhat self-fertile, but the results will be better if there are at least two shrubs to cross-pollinate.
The cornelian cherry dogwood can spread by suckers, so keep the plant in check by removing them promptly.
Light
This shrub prefers a location that offers full sun to part shade. It requires a bit more sun than most dogwoods—less than 4 hours of sun daily will lead to reduced flowering and fruit production.
Soil
Cornelian cherry dogwood is most happy with a well-drained rich soil that has a good amount of humus in it. It will fail to thrive in dense soils that remain constantly wet. While most dogwoods prefer slightly acidic soil, cornelian cherry dogwood can do fine even in slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
This plant has average water needs—it will thrive with about 1 inch of water per week in the form of rainfall and/or irrigation. Make sure the moisture penetrates the soil to a depth of about 6 inches. Once established, this type of dogwood is fairly resilient, bouncing back from being flooded during wet spells or parched during drought.
Temperature and Humidity
Rated for USDA zones 4 to 8, cornelian cherry dogwood will survive temperatures down to minus-25 or minus-30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Like most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is best fertilized once in the early spring, then once about three months later. Use a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the roots. If you have extremely alkaline soil, using an acidifying fertilizer may help.
Pruning Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
This shrub tends to form multiple leader stems, and to control the size you'll need to prune away suckers that appear. To train the plant as a small tree, select a main leader as a trunk, then systematically prune away competing shoots. This species also can be readily pruned to maintain as a hedge plant.
The best timing for hard pruning is immediately after the flowers have faded in spring, but be aware that you'll lose the fruits for that season.
Propagating Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
As with most dogwoods, cornelian cherry dogwood is most often propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
Snip 3- to 5-inch cuttings from the tips of green stems, then remove the bottom set of leaves. Cut the other leaves in half, but leave them on the cuttings. Dip the cut ends in a rooting compound, then plant the cuttings in small containers filled with a commercial seed-starter mix or a mixture of perlite and sand.
Place the planted cutting inside a large plastic bag, and place the pot in a bright, warm location. Check the cutting weekly to see if roots have developed (you will feel resistance when tugging on the cutting). When a good network of roots has developed (about 6 weeks), remove the plastic bag, and continue growing the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the potting mix moist. At the point where the cutting outgrows its first pot, you can repot it in a container filled with ordinary potting mix. When it outgrows this second pot, it is ready to plant in the landscape. This process may involve growing the rooted cutting indoors over the winter, then transplanting it outdoors the following spring.
Common Pests/ Diseases
When properly grown in the right conditions, this shrub has few disease or pest issues. While it is not immune to the dogwood anthracnose disease that plagues many types of dogwood, this species is decidedly more resistant to that disease.
The easy-care reputation is lost, though, if a cornelian cherry dogwood becomes unhealthy. Stressed plants can be susceptible to borers; and leaf miner, gall midge, and scale may also become more than just cosmetic problems.
Potential disease problems include leaf spot, crown canker, root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf blight. Here, too, it is stressed trees or those planted in less than ideal circumstances that are most vulnerable.
Varieties of Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
For a shrub with variegated leaves, choose the 'Variegata' or `Elegantissima' cultivars.
If you prefer golden leaves, look for 'Aurea'.
Try 'Nana' if you want a plant that only reaches about 3 feet tall.
For yellow fruit rather than red, plant 'Xanthocarpa' or 'Flava'
'Fructu Violaceo' produces purple fruits.
'Alba' has white fruits.
If you live in the Southern United States, 'Spring Glow' is an excellent choice to handle the conditions found there.
‘Golden Glory’ has extra-large flowers and large fruit, with a more upright branching growth habit.
Landscape Uses
Cornelian cherry dogwood is highly prized for its very early spring blooms. It works well as a hedge, screen, or foundation plant, or can be grouped with other shrubs species in a mixed border. It can also be trained as a small specimen tree. Juxtaposed against a dark green woodland background, the yellow blossoms pop with color.
This form of dogwood is a good choice if you want to lure birds, squirrels, and other animals to your garden, as they love the fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月14日
Rue is a short-lived perennial herb with a small, shrub-like growth habit. It features aromatic, blue-green foliage with a fern-like appearance. And in the summertime, it sports clusters of small yellow flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators to the garden, as well as parasitic wasps. The ornamental herb has a moderate growth rate and should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Be aware that despite their past as a traditional use as a medicinal herb, rue leaves are toxic both to people1 and pets2.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月23日
The coffee plant is an attractive little specimen with glossy green leaves and a compact growth habit. It makes a surprisingly good potted indoor plant. Native to Ethiopia, the coffee plant (Coffea arabica) will flower in the spring with small white flowers and then bear half-inch berries that gradually darken from green to blackish pods. Each of these fruits contains two seeds, which eventually become the coffee beans you use to brew coffee. Other than the seeds, it's important to know that all plant parts are toxic to both humans and animals.12
In their native habitat, coffee plants grow into medium-sized trees. But growers regularly prune the plants to be a more manageable size, especially when the plants are grown indoors. (Note that you can't grow coffee plants from the beans you buy in a store; those have been treated and roasted and will not sprout.) Even though coffee plants are vigorous growers, it will typically take a few years before your plant produces flowers and subsequent fruits. All parts of the plant are toxic to pets and humans—the beans are edible to humans.
Common Name Coffee plant, Arabian coffee
Botanical Name Coffea arabica
Family Rubiaceae, Madder
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0-6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Ethiopia, tropical Africa
Toxicity All parts of the plant are toxic to dogs, cats, and people; beans are edible for people
Coffee Plant Care
The best environment in which to grow coffee plants is to mimic its natural conditions found on a tropical, mid-elevation mountainside: plenty of water with good drainage, high humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and rich, slightly acidic soil.
You can grow coffee plants outdoors if the conditions are similar to their natural environment. Indoors, coffee plants do best placed near a window but not in direct sunlight. Make sure to keep the plant away from drafts, such as those produced from air conditioning. Be prepared to water at least weekly to keep the soil moist.
Light
Coffee plants prefer dappled sunlight or full sunlight in weaker latitudes. They are actually understory plants (existing under the forest canopy) and do not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much direct sunlight will develop leaf browning.
Soil
Plant coffee plants in a rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage. Coffee plants prefer acidic soil, so if your plant is not thriving add organic matter such as sphagnum peat moss to increase soil pH. The ideal pH range is closer to 6 to 6.5.
Water
These plants are water lovers and require both regular and ample watering. The soil should stay evenly moist but not waterlogged. Never allow the soil to dry out completely.3
Temperature and Humidity
The optimal average temperature range for coffee plants is a daytime temperature between 70 to 80 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 to 70 degrees. Higher (hotter) temperatures can accelerate growth, but higher temperatures are not ideal for growing plants for their beans. The fruits need to ripen at a slow, steady pace.
In addition, because these plants naturally grow on the sides of tropical mountains, they thrive in highly humid conditions which usually receive plenty of rain and fog. A humidity level of 50 percent or higher should suffice. If the air is too dry, the leaf edges might start to brown. Mist the plant daily to raise the humidity level.
Fertilizer
Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season every couple of weeks. Cut the fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Types of Coffee Plant
Coffea arabica 'Nana': This is a dwarf variety that only grows 12-inches tall, making it ideal to cultivate indoors.
Coffea canephora: Commonly known as robusta coffee, this species comes from sub-Saharan Africa. Its plants are robust; however, the coffee beans are less favored because they tend to have a stronger, harsher taste than arabica beans.
Coffea liberica: A variety native to central and western Africa, it was first discovered in Liberia. It produces large fruits with a higher caffeine content than arabica beans, but lower than robusta beans.
Pruning
Coffee plant needs little pruning, but should be cut back in the spring with clean, sharp gardening shears. This will help shape your plant, and it will grow back bushier!
Propagating Coffee Plants
To propagate coffee plant, you can do so from cuttings or air layers (a somewhat involved technique where you root branches still attached to the parent plant). The best time to take a cutting is in the early summer.
Select a straight shoot that's about 8 to 10 inches long and remove all but a pair of upper leaves.
Then, plant the cutting in a small pot of soilless potting mix, and keep the soil slightly moist.
When you can gently tug on the plant and feel resistance, you'll know roots have formed.
How to Grow Coffee Plant From Seed
While you can't germinate the coffee beans you buy in a store, you can sprout the ones that grow on your coffee plant. Called "cherries," rub away their flesh wash away any residue; dry thoroughly by sitting in the open air for a few weeks. Then, soak the cherries in water for 24 hours, and then sow in damp, but well-draining, sand. If you water daily, the cherries should germinate in two to four months. When they've germinated, carefully remove them and plant each one in well-draining, acidic soil. Water twice a week.
Potting and Repotting Coffee Plant
Repot your coffee plant every spring, gradually stepping up the pot size. Make sure the container has several drainage holes. If you want, you can prune the plant to the desired size, slightly restrict its pot size, and root prune to keep its growth manageable.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coffee plants grown indoors will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites.3 Signs of infestation include tiny webs, clumps of white powdery residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations with insecticides, or something organic like neem oil. as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection.
How to Get Coffee Plant to Bloom
Coffee plants bloom delicate, white flowers, once the plant is around three-years-old. If these blooms are pollinated—if your coffee plant is outdoors—the flowers will give way to little, red fruit (the "cherries") that are slightly soft to the touch.
To get your own coffee plant to bloom, make sure it's at the right temperature—70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day—has four to five hours of sunlight a day, and is growing in damp, well-draining soil.
Common Problems With Coffee Plant
Brown spots on leaves
Fungal diseases like leaf spot can give your coffee plant brown spots on its leaves. To remedy, remove affected leaves and stems and trim away inner branches so there is better air circulation for your plant.
Brown leaves that fall off
Leaves that turn brown and fall off usually do so from leaf scorch (otherwise known as "too much sun"). Fixing the former is merely a matter of giving your coffee plant more indirect light.
FAQ
Is coffee plant easy to care for?
Yes! Coffee plant is a super easy plant to grow. With the right light, water, and humidity, it's a welcome addition to your home.
How fast does coffee plant grow?
Coffee plant takes three to five years to reach maturity.
Can coffee plant grow indoors?
Absolutely! While when planted outdoors a coffee plant can reach 6-feet tall, most indoor growers prune them so they stay within a manageable size of 1 to 2 feet.
In their native habitat, coffee plants grow into medium-sized trees. But growers regularly prune the plants to be a more manageable size, especially when the plants are grown indoors. (Note that you can't grow coffee plants from the beans you buy in a store; those have been treated and roasted and will not sprout.) Even though coffee plants are vigorous growers, it will typically take a few years before your plant produces flowers and subsequent fruits. All parts of the plant are toxic to pets and humans—the beans are edible to humans.
Common Name Coffee plant, Arabian coffee
Botanical Name Coffea arabica
Family Rubiaceae, Madder
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0-6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Ethiopia, tropical Africa
Toxicity All parts of the plant are toxic to dogs, cats, and people; beans are edible for people
Coffee Plant Care
The best environment in which to grow coffee plants is to mimic its natural conditions found on a tropical, mid-elevation mountainside: plenty of water with good drainage, high humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and rich, slightly acidic soil.
You can grow coffee plants outdoors if the conditions are similar to their natural environment. Indoors, coffee plants do best placed near a window but not in direct sunlight. Make sure to keep the plant away from drafts, such as those produced from air conditioning. Be prepared to water at least weekly to keep the soil moist.
Light
Coffee plants prefer dappled sunlight or full sunlight in weaker latitudes. They are actually understory plants (existing under the forest canopy) and do not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much direct sunlight will develop leaf browning.
Soil
Plant coffee plants in a rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage. Coffee plants prefer acidic soil, so if your plant is not thriving add organic matter such as sphagnum peat moss to increase soil pH. The ideal pH range is closer to 6 to 6.5.
Water
These plants are water lovers and require both regular and ample watering. The soil should stay evenly moist but not waterlogged. Never allow the soil to dry out completely.3
Temperature and Humidity
The optimal average temperature range for coffee plants is a daytime temperature between 70 to 80 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 to 70 degrees. Higher (hotter) temperatures can accelerate growth, but higher temperatures are not ideal for growing plants for their beans. The fruits need to ripen at a slow, steady pace.
In addition, because these plants naturally grow on the sides of tropical mountains, they thrive in highly humid conditions which usually receive plenty of rain and fog. A humidity level of 50 percent or higher should suffice. If the air is too dry, the leaf edges might start to brown. Mist the plant daily to raise the humidity level.
Fertilizer
Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season every couple of weeks. Cut the fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Types of Coffee Plant
Coffea arabica 'Nana': This is a dwarf variety that only grows 12-inches tall, making it ideal to cultivate indoors.
Coffea canephora: Commonly known as robusta coffee, this species comes from sub-Saharan Africa. Its plants are robust; however, the coffee beans are less favored because they tend to have a stronger, harsher taste than arabica beans.
Coffea liberica: A variety native to central and western Africa, it was first discovered in Liberia. It produces large fruits with a higher caffeine content than arabica beans, but lower than robusta beans.
Pruning
Coffee plant needs little pruning, but should be cut back in the spring with clean, sharp gardening shears. This will help shape your plant, and it will grow back bushier!
Propagating Coffee Plants
To propagate coffee plant, you can do so from cuttings or air layers (a somewhat involved technique where you root branches still attached to the parent plant). The best time to take a cutting is in the early summer.
Select a straight shoot that's about 8 to 10 inches long and remove all but a pair of upper leaves.
Then, plant the cutting in a small pot of soilless potting mix, and keep the soil slightly moist.
When you can gently tug on the plant and feel resistance, you'll know roots have formed.
How to Grow Coffee Plant From Seed
While you can't germinate the coffee beans you buy in a store, you can sprout the ones that grow on your coffee plant. Called "cherries," rub away their flesh wash away any residue; dry thoroughly by sitting in the open air for a few weeks. Then, soak the cherries in water for 24 hours, and then sow in damp, but well-draining, sand. If you water daily, the cherries should germinate in two to four months. When they've germinated, carefully remove them and plant each one in well-draining, acidic soil. Water twice a week.
Potting and Repotting Coffee Plant
Repot your coffee plant every spring, gradually stepping up the pot size. Make sure the container has several drainage holes. If you want, you can prune the plant to the desired size, slightly restrict its pot size, and root prune to keep its growth manageable.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coffee plants grown indoors will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites.3 Signs of infestation include tiny webs, clumps of white powdery residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations with insecticides, or something organic like neem oil. as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection.
How to Get Coffee Plant to Bloom
Coffee plants bloom delicate, white flowers, once the plant is around three-years-old. If these blooms are pollinated—if your coffee plant is outdoors—the flowers will give way to little, red fruit (the "cherries") that are slightly soft to the touch.
To get your own coffee plant to bloom, make sure it's at the right temperature—70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day—has four to five hours of sunlight a day, and is growing in damp, well-draining soil.
Common Problems With Coffee Plant
Brown spots on leaves
Fungal diseases like leaf spot can give your coffee plant brown spots on its leaves. To remedy, remove affected leaves and stems and trim away inner branches so there is better air circulation for your plant.
Brown leaves that fall off
Leaves that turn brown and fall off usually do so from leaf scorch (otherwise known as "too much sun"). Fixing the former is merely a matter of giving your coffee plant more indirect light.
FAQ
Is coffee plant easy to care for?
Yes! Coffee plant is a super easy plant to grow. With the right light, water, and humidity, it's a welcome addition to your home.
How fast does coffee plant grow?
Coffee plant takes three to five years to reach maturity.
Can coffee plant grow indoors?
Absolutely! While when planted outdoors a coffee plant can reach 6-feet tall, most indoor growers prune them so they stay within a manageable size of 1 to 2 feet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月30日
The flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) is a thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a somewhat messy growth habit but beautiful red, orange, white, or pink flowers to go with shiny, dark green foliage. Related to roses, flowering quince has a thorny habit and easy-to-grow nature that makes it a good choice for barrier or border plantings.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月28日
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in much of North America and is very easy to grow. It has a clump-forming growth habit with square stems and triangular to oval, gray-green leaves with toothed edges that stretch around 3 inches long. Flower spikes appear in the late spring to early fall, bearing clusters of small blooms that are white with light purple markings.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月15日
Carrots are biennial vegetables, though they are typically harvested in their first year of growth, before they overwinter, and set flowers the following year. Carrot foliage is finely dissected, with fern-like compound leaves. Carrot flowers have five petals and sepals, and are born in compound umbels. Most roots are about 1 inch in diameter and anywhere from one inch to more than 12 inches long. Carrots are best known for long, orange roots, but they actually come in several colors and shapes.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月04日
Despite its common name, the cardboard palm (Zamia furfuracea) is not a palm tree. Its name comes from its growth habit, which is similar to that of palms. Cardboard palms grow pinnate leaves (a leaf composed of many small leaflets on either side of a stem) much like a palm frond that you'd find on a lipstick palm. The leaflets are bright green and oval, and they have a slightly fuzzy feel similar to cardboard. The plant is generally shorter than it is wide, with a thick, partially subterranean trunk. It has a slow growth rate and is best planted in the spring. Outside of its tropical growing zones, it’s commonly kept as a houseplant.
Botanical Name Zamia furfuracea
Common Names Cardboard palm, cardboard plant, cardboard sago, cardboard cycad, Jamaican sago, Mexican cycad
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 4–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Cardboard Palm Care
Cardboard palms are hardy plants, and they generally don’t require a great deal of care. The key to growing them successfully is to provide them with well-drained soil and give them lots of sunlight, especially during the growing season (spring to fall) and when the plant is young. Other than that, you’ll have to water whenever the soil dries out and feed your cardboard palm twice a year.
These plants don’t have major problems with pests or diseases. However, overwatering and allowing water to collect on the plant foliage can cause fungal diseases. So be sure only to water the soil around the base of the plant. Regular pruning is not necessary, but you can prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves as they arise.
Light
Cardboard palms grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Indoors, place your plant by your brightest window, and be sure to rotate the pot regularly so all parts of the plant get an even amount of light. Otherwise the cardboard palm will start to grow lopsided.
Soil
These plants can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as they have good drainage. A loose, sandy soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best. Cardboard palms in containers will grow well in a potting mix made for cacti and palms.
Water
Only a moderate amount of water is required for cardboard palms. And overwatering can cause the roots to rot. From the spring to fall, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. But over the winter, reduce watering by about half of what you watered during the growing season.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardboard palms are fairly hardy plants. They can tolerate heat, but cold temperatures and frost can damage or kill them. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer low to average humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Feed your plant twice a year with a slow-release palm fertilizer. One application should be at the beginning of the spring and the other at the start of autumn.
Potting and Repotting Cardboard Palms
Growing cardboard palms from seed is especially difficult, so it’s recommended to select a nursery plant to pot. Pick a sturdy pot with ample drainage holes that’s slightly larger than your plant’s root ball, and plant the cardboard palm in quality potting mix.
This plant doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed, so only repot once the roots have outgrown the container and are poking out of it. This will typically occur every two to three years until the plant has reached its maximum size. Select one pot size up, gently remove the cardboard palm from its old container, and replant it in the new one with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was planted before.
Zamia Varieties
The cardboard palm is only one of more than 50 species within the Zamia genus. Most of these species grow in tropical environments, and many have palm-like features. Some Zamia species include:
Zamia integrifolia: This species can be found in the Southeastern United States and features dark green leaves that extend around 4 feet from the trunk.
Zamia pseudoparasitica: This species is epiphytic, meaning it generally grows on the surface of other plants.
Zamia splendens: This species is known for its glossy reddish-brown leaves and has good shade tolerance.
Zamia decumbens: This unusual species has trunks that run horizontally along the ground, rather than growing vertically.
Botanical Name Zamia furfuracea
Common Names Cardboard palm, cardboard plant, cardboard sago, cardboard cycad, Jamaican sago, Mexican cycad
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 4–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Cardboard Palm Care
Cardboard palms are hardy plants, and they generally don’t require a great deal of care. The key to growing them successfully is to provide them with well-drained soil and give them lots of sunlight, especially during the growing season (spring to fall) and when the plant is young. Other than that, you’ll have to water whenever the soil dries out and feed your cardboard palm twice a year.
These plants don’t have major problems with pests or diseases. However, overwatering and allowing water to collect on the plant foliage can cause fungal diseases. So be sure only to water the soil around the base of the plant. Regular pruning is not necessary, but you can prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves as they arise.
Light
Cardboard palms grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Indoors, place your plant by your brightest window, and be sure to rotate the pot regularly so all parts of the plant get an even amount of light. Otherwise the cardboard palm will start to grow lopsided.
Soil
These plants can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as they have good drainage. A loose, sandy soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best. Cardboard palms in containers will grow well in a potting mix made for cacti and palms.
Water
Only a moderate amount of water is required for cardboard palms. And overwatering can cause the roots to rot. From the spring to fall, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. But over the winter, reduce watering by about half of what you watered during the growing season.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardboard palms are fairly hardy plants. They can tolerate heat, but cold temperatures and frost can damage or kill them. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer low to average humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Feed your plant twice a year with a slow-release palm fertilizer. One application should be at the beginning of the spring and the other at the start of autumn.
Potting and Repotting Cardboard Palms
Growing cardboard palms from seed is especially difficult, so it’s recommended to select a nursery plant to pot. Pick a sturdy pot with ample drainage holes that’s slightly larger than your plant’s root ball, and plant the cardboard palm in quality potting mix.
This plant doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed, so only repot once the roots have outgrown the container and are poking out of it. This will typically occur every two to three years until the plant has reached its maximum size. Select one pot size up, gently remove the cardboard palm from its old container, and replant it in the new one with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was planted before.
Zamia Varieties
The cardboard palm is only one of more than 50 species within the Zamia genus. Most of these species grow in tropical environments, and many have palm-like features. Some Zamia species include:
Zamia integrifolia: This species can be found in the Southeastern United States and features dark green leaves that extend around 4 feet from the trunk.
Zamia pseudoparasitica: This species is epiphytic, meaning it generally grows on the surface of other plants.
Zamia splendens: This species is known for its glossy reddish-brown leaves and has good shade tolerance.
Zamia decumbens: This unusual species has trunks that run horizontally along the ground, rather than growing vertically.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月26日
The African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) is native to Central Africa. It is often grown as a hedge there, useful for its rapid and enthusiastic growth, though its roots are not invasive. Though it looks a lot like a cactus, it is actually a succulent plant. It has many folk names, including candelabra cactus, cathedral cactus, friendship cactus, good luck plant. or good luck cactus (the good luck attribution is probably due to how quickly it grows, and how easily it propagates). It stays lush and green throughout its growing season, and new growth has a lighter green color than the base plant. The Rubra or Royal Red cultivar is very popular for its dramatic coloring: it takes on bright red accents later in the season.
Botanical Name Euphorbia trigona
Common Name African Milk Tree, African Milk Bush
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6 to 8 ft.
Sun Exposure Indirect sun to partial shade
Soil Type Medium rich, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.8 (mildly acidic to mildly alkaline)
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White (outdoors only)
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Central Africa
Toxicity Sap toxic
African Milk Tree Care
The African milk tree is long-lived and can grow very vigorously, up to two feet a year in height, to a total of eight feet tall. It is fairly easy to propagate also, similar to a cactus, where one simply breaks off one of the "arms" and roots in potting medium. They're grown by many gardeners in states with arid climates where the temperatures at night don't go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as parts of Texas, Arkansas, and Arizona. It's hardy in Zones 9b through 11 in the United States, and can probably survive to Zone 8 with winter protection.
The African milk tree is also popular as a decorative landscape or container plant throughout South America, and in the Mediterranean regions of Europe. Its dramatic size makes it a sought after plant for plant enthusiasts, and they may require training through pruning and staking. The African milk tree is also very drought-tolerant and useful for xeriscaping. Because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small root system, they can topple over, so be sure to keep them pruned and use staking when needed.
Light
This succulent likes indirect but bright sunlight. A southern-facing window will work well for it indoors or an outdoor spot with partial sun. Full sun is suitable as long as the summers are not too consistently hot. Extra watering may be needed to offset too much bright sunlight.
Soil
This plant is not too fussy about soil but good drainage is essential. Heavy clay soils may hamper growth, and impede drainage. Since this plant is a good choice for xeriscaping, sandy soils are a good fit, and sandy loam probably works best of all.
Water
Being a succulent, the African milk tree doesn't need much water. If there is a very bad drought, consider supplemental watering at the roots. But otherwise normal rainfall should be sufficient. Indoor specimens should be watered moderately once a week. Let the soil dry out between each watering to mimic its natural habitat.
Temperature and Humidity
This drought-tolerant plant enjoys a dry or arid climate, and can tolerate fairly hot temperatures. If grown in a place with very hot summers, the plant should be located in a spot with indirect sunlight or partial shade, to avoid overheating. This plant doesn't need any extra humidity, and growing it in an environment that is too humid may cause issues such as fungus or pests.
Fertilizer
During the plant's growing season in the spring and summer, treat it to water-soluble fertilizer once a month.
Is African Milk Tree Toxic?
The milky white sap responsible for this plant's common name is also a skin irritant, as well as an oral toxin, so handle the plant carefully and wear gloves. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Wear protective gloves and wash hands when handling this plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant or sap, skin and/or eyes may experience burning, redness, blisters, and swelling. Sap in the eyes can cause conjunctivitis. Ingestion of the sap irritates lips, tongue, and throat. Wash skin and rinse eyes of the sap immediately. If symptoms are severe, immediately seek medical assistance.
Pruning
African milk trees don't always require pruning. But because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small, shallow root system, it's not unusual for them to become top-heavy or to even topple over, so pruning may be necessary. Use a sharp and sterilized knife to prune stems. The cut will dry over and create a callus on its own. Make sure the plant is balanced on both sides because a shallow root system can't always hold down a plant that's too heavy on one side.
Propagating African Milk Tree
The African milk tree propagates easily. You only need a pair of scissors or hand pruners, and a container with potting medium. Use proper protective gear when propagating, like heavy gloves, and wash immediately if you get any of the milky sap on your skin. Here are the easy steps:
Cut one of the "arms" off with sharp shears or scissors at its base.
Rinse the arm with running cold water until it stops oozing.
Let the arm sit in a dry spot on a paper towel and out of direct sun for five to seven days so the cut tip can callus over (this prevents rotting). (Note: Many growers bypass the callus stage and put the cutting directly into soil as soon as it is cut. Growth should occur within three weeks with this method.)
Once the callus has formed, then you can plant it in a small pot (about 4-inches wide).
Plant the cutting so it sits about an inch below the soil.
Add a layer of course gravel on top of the soil to help keep the cutting stay upright.
Place the pot in a warm area with a temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be well-lit but out of the direct sun.
The cutting should root within two months.
As soon as you see growth, transplant the plant into a slightly larger, 6-inch pot.
How to Grow African Milk Tree From Seed
Though you can grow the plant from seeds, it's not typically recommended. The seeds can be difficult to find and they are even more difficult and slow to germinate. It's better to propagate the plant using cuttings. If you do find seeds, plant them in well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting African Milk Tree
Good drainage and reducing the risk of overwatering this plant are important considerations when potting and repotting. The African milk tree will do best in a porous clay pot that absorbs water. Avoid glazed pots that don't absorb water very well, which adds to the risk of overwatering the plant. A sandy soil or potting mix formulated for succulents allows for better water drainage. Add pumice or perlite to the potting soil, as well, to aid drainage.
Repotting the plant every year or two into a larger pot as it continues to grow taller will ensure that there's enough room for the roots to hold the plant in place, though potentially with a little staking help. It may take two people to repot a very large African milk tree so that the plant is not damaged in the process. Wear protective gear and gloves when working with this plant.
Overwintering
African milk trees won't survive the cold. They typically won't flourish if temperatures go below 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the tree is potted, bring it indoors. Place it in a room with good air circulation to cut down on humidity. Set it near a brightly lit window, but one with indirect sunlight.
Common Pests & Diseases
The African milk tree is usually not problematic with pests or diseases. However, watch for cotton-like threads made by mealybugs on African milk trees. To remove them, mix a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish detergent. Wipe the bugs off with a cloth dipped in the solution. You can also use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the bugs. Outdoors, spray bugs off the plant with the garden hose.
Overwatering can cause fungal problems, such as cork disease. The stems will develop cork-like patches. Try saving the plant by cutting off the stems with these patches. Yellowing or browning of the plant may also indicate root rot from overwatering. You will likely need to dispose of the plant.
Botanical Name Euphorbia trigona
Common Name African Milk Tree, African Milk Bush
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6 to 8 ft.
Sun Exposure Indirect sun to partial shade
Soil Type Medium rich, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.8 (mildly acidic to mildly alkaline)
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White (outdoors only)
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Central Africa
Toxicity Sap toxic
African Milk Tree Care
The African milk tree is long-lived and can grow very vigorously, up to two feet a year in height, to a total of eight feet tall. It is fairly easy to propagate also, similar to a cactus, where one simply breaks off one of the "arms" and roots in potting medium. They're grown by many gardeners in states with arid climates where the temperatures at night don't go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as parts of Texas, Arkansas, and Arizona. It's hardy in Zones 9b through 11 in the United States, and can probably survive to Zone 8 with winter protection.
The African milk tree is also popular as a decorative landscape or container plant throughout South America, and in the Mediterranean regions of Europe. Its dramatic size makes it a sought after plant for plant enthusiasts, and they may require training through pruning and staking. The African milk tree is also very drought-tolerant and useful for xeriscaping. Because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small root system, they can topple over, so be sure to keep them pruned and use staking when needed.
Light
This succulent likes indirect but bright sunlight. A southern-facing window will work well for it indoors or an outdoor spot with partial sun. Full sun is suitable as long as the summers are not too consistently hot. Extra watering may be needed to offset too much bright sunlight.
Soil
This plant is not too fussy about soil but good drainage is essential. Heavy clay soils may hamper growth, and impede drainage. Since this plant is a good choice for xeriscaping, sandy soils are a good fit, and sandy loam probably works best of all.
Water
Being a succulent, the African milk tree doesn't need much water. If there is a very bad drought, consider supplemental watering at the roots. But otherwise normal rainfall should be sufficient. Indoor specimens should be watered moderately once a week. Let the soil dry out between each watering to mimic its natural habitat.
Temperature and Humidity
This drought-tolerant plant enjoys a dry or arid climate, and can tolerate fairly hot temperatures. If grown in a place with very hot summers, the plant should be located in a spot with indirect sunlight or partial shade, to avoid overheating. This plant doesn't need any extra humidity, and growing it in an environment that is too humid may cause issues such as fungus or pests.
Fertilizer
During the plant's growing season in the spring and summer, treat it to water-soluble fertilizer once a month.
Is African Milk Tree Toxic?
The milky white sap responsible for this plant's common name is also a skin irritant, as well as an oral toxin, so handle the plant carefully and wear gloves. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Wear protective gloves and wash hands when handling this plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant or sap, skin and/or eyes may experience burning, redness, blisters, and swelling. Sap in the eyes can cause conjunctivitis. Ingestion of the sap irritates lips, tongue, and throat. Wash skin and rinse eyes of the sap immediately. If symptoms are severe, immediately seek medical assistance.
Pruning
African milk trees don't always require pruning. But because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small, shallow root system, it's not unusual for them to become top-heavy or to even topple over, so pruning may be necessary. Use a sharp and sterilized knife to prune stems. The cut will dry over and create a callus on its own. Make sure the plant is balanced on both sides because a shallow root system can't always hold down a plant that's too heavy on one side.
Propagating African Milk Tree
The African milk tree propagates easily. You only need a pair of scissors or hand pruners, and a container with potting medium. Use proper protective gear when propagating, like heavy gloves, and wash immediately if you get any of the milky sap on your skin. Here are the easy steps:
Cut one of the "arms" off with sharp shears or scissors at its base.
Rinse the arm with running cold water until it stops oozing.
Let the arm sit in a dry spot on a paper towel and out of direct sun for five to seven days so the cut tip can callus over (this prevents rotting). (Note: Many growers bypass the callus stage and put the cutting directly into soil as soon as it is cut. Growth should occur within three weeks with this method.)
Once the callus has formed, then you can plant it in a small pot (about 4-inches wide).
Plant the cutting so it sits about an inch below the soil.
Add a layer of course gravel on top of the soil to help keep the cutting stay upright.
Place the pot in a warm area with a temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be well-lit but out of the direct sun.
The cutting should root within two months.
As soon as you see growth, transplant the plant into a slightly larger, 6-inch pot.
How to Grow African Milk Tree From Seed
Though you can grow the plant from seeds, it's not typically recommended. The seeds can be difficult to find and they are even more difficult and slow to germinate. It's better to propagate the plant using cuttings. If you do find seeds, plant them in well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting African Milk Tree
Good drainage and reducing the risk of overwatering this plant are important considerations when potting and repotting. The African milk tree will do best in a porous clay pot that absorbs water. Avoid glazed pots that don't absorb water very well, which adds to the risk of overwatering the plant. A sandy soil or potting mix formulated for succulents allows for better water drainage. Add pumice or perlite to the potting soil, as well, to aid drainage.
Repotting the plant every year or two into a larger pot as it continues to grow taller will ensure that there's enough room for the roots to hold the plant in place, though potentially with a little staking help. It may take two people to repot a very large African milk tree so that the plant is not damaged in the process. Wear protective gear and gloves when working with this plant.
Overwintering
African milk trees won't survive the cold. They typically won't flourish if temperatures go below 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the tree is potted, bring it indoors. Place it in a room with good air circulation to cut down on humidity. Set it near a brightly lit window, but one with indirect sunlight.
Common Pests & Diseases
The African milk tree is usually not problematic with pests or diseases. However, watch for cotton-like threads made by mealybugs on African milk trees. To remove them, mix a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish detergent. Wipe the bugs off with a cloth dipped in the solution. You can also use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the bugs. Outdoors, spray bugs off the plant with the garden hose.
Overwatering can cause fungal problems, such as cork disease. The stems will develop cork-like patches. Try saving the plant by cutting off the stems with these patches. Yellowing or browning of the plant may also indicate root rot from overwatering. You will likely need to dispose of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月15日
Selecting the Cuttings
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月11日
Basics of taking plant cuttings
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月12日
Flower Pots - Terra CottaFlower pots have had various uses over time: moving plants to new locations — sometimes great distances, starting seeds, patio gardening, cultivation of indoor plants, and often for year-round growth in very cold climates, which usually have a short growing season. During the 18th century Josiah Wedgwood manufactured flower pots that were as gorgeous as his China dinnerware; they were often chosen as table centerpieces.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月28日
Fasciation (from the Latin root meaning "band" or "stripe"), also known as cresting, is a relatively rare condition of abnormal growth in vascular plants in which the apical meristem (growing tip), which normally is concentrated around a single point and produces approximately cylindrical tissue, instead becomes elongated perpendicularly to the direction of growth, thus producing flattened, ribbon-like, crested (or "cristate"), or elaborately contorted, tissue. Fasciation may also cause plant parts to increase in weight and volume in some instances.The phenomenon may occur in the stem, root, fruit, or flower head. Some plants are grown and prized aesthetically for their development of fasciation. Any occurrence of fasciation has several possible causes, including hormonal, genetic, bacterial, fungal, viral and environmental causes.
Although fasciation is rare overall, it has been observed in over 100 plant species, including members of the genera Acer, Aloe, Acanthosicyos, Cannabis, Celosia, Cycas, Delphinium, Digitalis, Euphorbia, Forsythia, Glycine max (specifically, soybean plants), Primula, Prunus, Salix and many genera of the cactus family, Cactaceae. Cresting results in undulating folds instead of the typical "arms" found on mature saguaro cactus.
Some varieties of Celosia are raised especially for their dependably fasciated flower heads, for which they are called "cockscomb". The Japanese fantail willow (Salix sachalinensis 'Sekka') is another plant that is valued for its fasciations.
Fasciation that is caused by damage to genetic material and by bacteria can be controlled by not using fasciated plants and disposing of fasciated plants. Avoiding injury to plant bases and keeping them dry can reduce the spread of bacteria. Avoidance of grafting fasciated plants and the pruning of fasciated matter can also reduce the spread of bacteria.
Although fasciation is rare overall, it has been observed in over 100 plant species, including members of the genera Acer, Aloe, Acanthosicyos, Cannabis, Celosia, Cycas, Delphinium, Digitalis, Euphorbia, Forsythia, Glycine max (specifically, soybean plants), Primula, Prunus, Salix and many genera of the cactus family, Cactaceae. Cresting results in undulating folds instead of the typical "arms" found on mature saguaro cactus.
Some varieties of Celosia are raised especially for their dependably fasciated flower heads, for which they are called "cockscomb". The Japanese fantail willow (Salix sachalinensis 'Sekka') is another plant that is valued for its fasciations.
Fasciation that is caused by damage to genetic material and by bacteria can be controlled by not using fasciated plants and disposing of fasciated plants. Avoiding injury to plant bases and keeping them dry can reduce the spread of bacteria. Avoidance of grafting fasciated plants and the pruning of fasciated matter can also reduce the spread of bacteria.
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文章
ritau
2020年04月08日
Have you ever seen a Marimo, the cute moss ball?
Marimo (also known as Cladophora ball, moss ball, moss ball pets, or lake ball) is a rare growth form of Aegagropila linnaei (a species of filamentous green algae) in which the algae grow into large green balls with a velvety appearance. Marimo are eukaryotic.
The species can be found in a number of lakes and rivers in Japan and Northern Europe. Colonies of marimo balls are known to form in Japan and Iceland, but their population has been declining.
Marimo were first described in the 1820s by Anton E. Sauter, found in Lake Zell, Austria. The genus Aegagropila was established by Friedrich T. Kützing (1843) with A. linnaei as the type species based on its formation of spherical aggregations, but all the Aegagropila species were transferred to subgenus Aegagropila of genus Cladophora later by the same author (Kützing 1849). Subsequently, A. linnaei was placed in the genus Cladophora in the Cladophorales and was renamed Cladophora aegagropila (L.) Rabenhorst and Cl. sauteri (Nees ex Kütz.) Kütz. Extensive DNA research in 2002 returned the name to Aegagropila linnaei. The presence of chitin in the cell walls makes it distinct from the genus Cladophora.
The plant was named marimo by the Japanese botanist Takiya Kawakami in 1898. Mari is a bouncy play ball. Mo is a generic term for plants that grow in water. The native names in Ainu are torasampe (lake goblin) and tokarip (lake roller). They are sometimes sold in aquariums under the name "Japanese moss balls" although they are unrelated to moss. In Iceland the lake balls are called kúluskítur by the local fishermen at Lake Mývatn (kúla = ball, skítur = muck) where the "muck" is any weeds that get entangled in their fishing nets. The generic name Aegagropila is Greek for "goat hair".
Marimo's preferred habitat is in lakes with a low or moderate biological activity, and with moderate or high levels of calcium.
The species is sensitive to the amount of nutrients in the water. An excess of nutrients (due to agriculture and fish farming), along with mud deposition from human activity are thought to be the main causes for its disappearance from many lakes.The species still exists in Lake Zeller in Austria (where it was first discovered in the 1820s) but the lake ball growth form has not been found there since around 1910. The same has happened in most locations in England and Scotland, where mainly the attached form can be found.Dense colonies of marimo were discovered in Lake Mývatn in Iceland in 1978, but they have shrunk considerably since then. By 2014 the marimo had almost completely disappeared from the lake due to an excess of nutrients.The species can still be found in several places in Japan, but populations have also declined there. At Lake Akan, a great effort is spent on the conservation of the lake balls.The marimo has been a protected species in Japan since the 1920s, and in Iceland since 2006. Lake Akan is protected as a national park and Lake Mývatn is protected as a nature reserve.
Marimo balls are a rare curiosity. In Japan, the Ainu people hold a three-day marimo festival every October at Lake Akan.
Because of their appealing appearance, the lake balls also serve as a medium for environmental education. Small balls sold as souvenirs are hand rolled from free-floating filaments.A widely marketed stuffed toy character known as Marimokkori takes the anthropomorphic form of the marimo algae as one part of its design.Marimo are sometimes sold for display in aquariums, those often originate from Ukrainian lakes like the Shatsk's lakes. Balls sold in Japanese aquarium shops are of European origin, collecting them from Lake Akan is prohibited.
Let us protect the cute Marimo!
Marimo (also known as Cladophora ball, moss ball, moss ball pets, or lake ball) is a rare growth form of Aegagropila linnaei (a species of filamentous green algae) in which the algae grow into large green balls with a velvety appearance. Marimo are eukaryotic.
The species can be found in a number of lakes and rivers in Japan and Northern Europe. Colonies of marimo balls are known to form in Japan and Iceland, but their population has been declining.
Marimo were first described in the 1820s by Anton E. Sauter, found in Lake Zell, Austria. The genus Aegagropila was established by Friedrich T. Kützing (1843) with A. linnaei as the type species based on its formation of spherical aggregations, but all the Aegagropila species were transferred to subgenus Aegagropila of genus Cladophora later by the same author (Kützing 1849). Subsequently, A. linnaei was placed in the genus Cladophora in the Cladophorales and was renamed Cladophora aegagropila (L.) Rabenhorst and Cl. sauteri (Nees ex Kütz.) Kütz. Extensive DNA research in 2002 returned the name to Aegagropila linnaei. The presence of chitin in the cell walls makes it distinct from the genus Cladophora.
The plant was named marimo by the Japanese botanist Takiya Kawakami in 1898. Mari is a bouncy play ball. Mo is a generic term for plants that grow in water. The native names in Ainu are torasampe (lake goblin) and tokarip (lake roller). They are sometimes sold in aquariums under the name "Japanese moss balls" although they are unrelated to moss. In Iceland the lake balls are called kúluskítur by the local fishermen at Lake Mývatn (kúla = ball, skítur = muck) where the "muck" is any weeds that get entangled in their fishing nets. The generic name Aegagropila is Greek for "goat hair".
Marimo's preferred habitat is in lakes with a low or moderate biological activity, and with moderate or high levels of calcium.
The species is sensitive to the amount of nutrients in the water. An excess of nutrients (due to agriculture and fish farming), along with mud deposition from human activity are thought to be the main causes for its disappearance from many lakes.The species still exists in Lake Zeller in Austria (where it was first discovered in the 1820s) but the lake ball growth form has not been found there since around 1910. The same has happened in most locations in England and Scotland, where mainly the attached form can be found.Dense colonies of marimo were discovered in Lake Mývatn in Iceland in 1978, but they have shrunk considerably since then. By 2014 the marimo had almost completely disappeared from the lake due to an excess of nutrients.The species can still be found in several places in Japan, but populations have also declined there. At Lake Akan, a great effort is spent on the conservation of the lake balls.The marimo has been a protected species in Japan since the 1920s, and in Iceland since 2006. Lake Akan is protected as a national park and Lake Mývatn is protected as a nature reserve.
Marimo balls are a rare curiosity. In Japan, the Ainu people hold a three-day marimo festival every October at Lake Akan.
Because of their appealing appearance, the lake balls also serve as a medium for environmental education. Small balls sold as souvenirs are hand rolled from free-floating filaments.A widely marketed stuffed toy character known as Marimokkori takes the anthropomorphic form of the marimo algae as one part of its design.Marimo are sometimes sold for display in aquariums, those often originate from Ukrainian lakes like the Shatsk's lakes. Balls sold in Japanese aquarium shops are of European origin, collecting them from Lake Akan is prohibited.
Let us protect the cute Marimo!
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