文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月01日
Description: This plant is a summer annual that becomes 3-18" tall; it is low and spreading, but not prostrate. The stems are pinkish red, round, and hairless, except for a few fine hairs on new growth. The opposite leaves are up to 2" long and ¾" across. They are oblong, with short petioles and margins that are smooth or irregularly serrate. The lower surface of each leaf is light green, while the upper surface may have a red blotch in the middle. A few fine hairs may occur near the base of eachStems, Leaves, & Flowers leaf. The inflorescence consists of a small cyathium on a straight pedicel. Usually, several cyathia develop near the ends of each major stem when a plant is mature. A cyathium is a small cup-like structure containing the pistillate flower and one or more staminate flowers, which have neither true petals nor sepals. It is initially green, but often turns red in bright sunlight. On this particular species, the cyathium has 4 tiny petal-like appendages that are bright white. Eventually, a round tripartite fruit develops from the cyathium on a short stalk; it often turns red in bright sunlight as well. This fruit is noticeably larger than the flowers. The blooming period is mid-summer to fall, lasting about 1-2 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. The root system consists of a slender central taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full sunlight, dry conditions, and poor soil. The soil can contain significant amounts of gravel, sand, or clay. Foliar disease rarely bothers the leaves, and drought resistance is excellent. This plant can reseed itself readily in sunny open areas.
Range & Habitat: The native Nodding Spurge is a common plant that occurs in nearly every county of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry upland areas of prairies, clay prairies, gravel prairies, thickets, openings in upland woodlands, fields and pastures (whether abandoned or still in use), areas along roadsides and railroads, poorly maintained lawns and gardens, and miscellaneous waste areas. This plant prefers disturbed open areas and it is somewhat weedy. This plant seems to be more common in rural than urban areas, possibly because of its intolerance to herbicides and frequent mowing of lawns.
Faunal Associations: The tiny flowers occasionally attract small bees, Syrphid flies, and wasps. These insects seek nectar primarily. The seeds are consumed by the Mourning Dove and Greater Prairie Chicken, and to a lesser extent by the Bobwhite and Horned Lark. The Wild Turkey has been known to eat the foliage, developing buds, and fruits, apparently without ill effects. Mammalian herbivores rarely eat this plant because of the poisonous white latex in the stems and foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at the Windsor Road Prairie in Champaign, Illinois. Some flowers are in bloom in one of the photographs as their stamens are clearly visible.
Comments: The Nodding Spurge can be readily distinguished from other Chamaesyce spp. by its more erect habit, larger leaves, and mostly hairless stems. Several scientific names have been applied to the Nodding Spurge in the past, including Chamaesyce maculata, Euphorbia maculata, and Euphorbia preslii. Sometimes the entire plant will turn reddish green in response to strong sunlight and dry conditions.
Cultivation: The preference is full sunlight, dry conditions, and poor soil. The soil can contain significant amounts of gravel, sand, or clay. Foliar disease rarely bothers the leaves, and drought resistance is excellent. This plant can reseed itself readily in sunny open areas.
Range & Habitat: The native Nodding Spurge is a common plant that occurs in nearly every county of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry upland areas of prairies, clay prairies, gravel prairies, thickets, openings in upland woodlands, fields and pastures (whether abandoned or still in use), areas along roadsides and railroads, poorly maintained lawns and gardens, and miscellaneous waste areas. This plant prefers disturbed open areas and it is somewhat weedy. This plant seems to be more common in rural than urban areas, possibly because of its intolerance to herbicides and frequent mowing of lawns.
Faunal Associations: The tiny flowers occasionally attract small bees, Syrphid flies, and wasps. These insects seek nectar primarily. The seeds are consumed by the Mourning Dove and Greater Prairie Chicken, and to a lesser extent by the Bobwhite and Horned Lark. The Wild Turkey has been known to eat the foliage, developing buds, and fruits, apparently without ill effects. Mammalian herbivores rarely eat this plant because of the poisonous white latex in the stems and foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at the Windsor Road Prairie in Champaign, Illinois. Some flowers are in bloom in one of the photographs as their stamens are clearly visible.
Comments: The Nodding Spurge can be readily distinguished from other Chamaesyce spp. by its more erect habit, larger leaves, and mostly hairless stems. Several scientific names have been applied to the Nodding Spurge in the past, including Chamaesyce maculata, Euphorbia maculata, and Euphorbia preslii. Sometimes the entire plant will turn reddish green in response to strong sunlight and dry conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
The process of deadheading -- or removing the wilted blooms from a flowering plant -- focuses the plant's energy into healthy root and leaf growth instead of seed production. In some plants, it also encourages the plants to bloom again. The various coneflower species respond well to deadheading, but there are also good reasons for not deadheading coneflowers.
Coneflower Blooms
Coneflowers all belong to the plant family, Asteraceae, and the blooms are similar enough they can all be deadheaded the same way, or left on the plant for the same reasons. Not every type of coneflower blooms at the same time, so be on the lookout throughout the summer and fall to deadhead in a timely manner.
The common name "coneflower" applies to several genera, including Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Ratibida. All have a cone-shaped flower center, though plants in the Echinacea genus are the ones most often referred to as "coneflowers."
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, has purple-pink petals around an orange center. It grows 2 to 5 feet tall, and blooms all summer
Yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall. It blooms all summer, and has thin yellow petals around a brown center.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, is a sturdy perennial that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms midsummer through fall. The daisylike yellow flowers have a black center.
Gray-head coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 8, grows 3 to 5 feet tall and blooms in the summer. It has thin yellow flower petals that fold back from a 1-inch gray center.
Mexican hat plant (Ratibida columnifera), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, is also called long-headed coneflower because the flower center can reach 2 inches high. It grows 1 to 3 feet tall, has yellow flower petals and blooms in the summer and early fall.
Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms summer through fall. It has orange-yellow flowers with a black center.
Reasons to Deadhead
Deadheading coneflowers can encourage rebloom. Purple coneflower and yellow coneflower will rebloom without deadheading, but black-eyed Susan must be deadheaded if you want reliable repeat blooming all summer and into fall.
Removing spent blooms also prevents self-seeding. If you don't want the plants to spread throughout the garden, make sure you deadhead plants before the seed heads ripen. Removing the flowers as soon as they are finished blooming also keeps the garden looking neat and tidy.
Leaving the Seeds
If you decide not to deadhead coneflowers, the seeds will attract birds to the garden. The seeds that birds don't eat fall to the ground and easily sprout to create more plants. Self-seeding can result in a large number of seedlings in the spring, which will start blooming after about two years.
The flower center of the coneflower is where seeds develop. After the petals fall off, these seed heads often remain upright in the garden throughout all or part of the winter. This provides winter interest in the garden in the form of dark-colored cone-shaped seed heads, and birds that are attracted to the seeds.
Coneflower Blooms
Coneflowers all belong to the plant family, Asteraceae, and the blooms are similar enough they can all be deadheaded the same way, or left on the plant for the same reasons. Not every type of coneflower blooms at the same time, so be on the lookout throughout the summer and fall to deadhead in a timely manner.
The common name "coneflower" applies to several genera, including Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Ratibida. All have a cone-shaped flower center, though plants in the Echinacea genus are the ones most often referred to as "coneflowers."
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, has purple-pink petals around an orange center. It grows 2 to 5 feet tall, and blooms all summer
Yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall. It blooms all summer, and has thin yellow petals around a brown center.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, is a sturdy perennial that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms midsummer through fall. The daisylike yellow flowers have a black center.
Gray-head coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 8, grows 3 to 5 feet tall and blooms in the summer. It has thin yellow flower petals that fold back from a 1-inch gray center.
Mexican hat plant (Ratibida columnifera), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, is also called long-headed coneflower because the flower center can reach 2 inches high. It grows 1 to 3 feet tall, has yellow flower petals and blooms in the summer and early fall.
Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms summer through fall. It has orange-yellow flowers with a black center.
Reasons to Deadhead
Deadheading coneflowers can encourage rebloom. Purple coneflower and yellow coneflower will rebloom without deadheading, but black-eyed Susan must be deadheaded if you want reliable repeat blooming all summer and into fall.
Removing spent blooms also prevents self-seeding. If you don't want the plants to spread throughout the garden, make sure you deadhead plants before the seed heads ripen. Removing the flowers as soon as they are finished blooming also keeps the garden looking neat and tidy.
Leaving the Seeds
If you decide not to deadhead coneflowers, the seeds will attract birds to the garden. The seeds that birds don't eat fall to the ground and easily sprout to create more plants. Self-seeding can result in a large number of seedlings in the spring, which will start blooming after about two years.
The flower center of the coneflower is where seeds develop. After the petals fall off, these seed heads often remain upright in the garden throughout all or part of the winter. This provides winter interest in the garden in the form of dark-colored cone-shaped seed heads, and birds that are attracted to the seeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月26日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 3-9' tall. It is unbranched or little branched. The stout central stem is light green; where new growth occurs, this stem is more or less pubescent, but it becomes less hairy with age. The lower leaves are often opposite, while the upper leaves are alternate. These leaves are palmately compound with 3-9 leaflets (usually there are 5-7 leaflets). On large plants, these leaves can span up to 10" long and across (excluding the petioles), but they are half this size on smaller plants. While the lower leaves have long slender petioles, the upper leaves are nearly sessile. These petioles are more or less pubescent and occasionally reddish green. Each leaflet is narrowly ovate and coarsely serrated along the margins; the middle leaflets are larger in size than the lateral leaflets. The upper surface of each leaflet is dark green and sparsely pubescent.
Hemp is dioecious with both male and female plants. The male plants produce both axillary and terminal panicles of male flowers. These panicles are up to 1' long; they have small leafy bracts and pubescent stalks. Each male flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens with large anthers, and no petals. The oblong or lanceolate sepals are initially green, but they become cream or pale yellow with maturity. After these flowers have shed their pollen, the foliage of the male plant soon turns yellow and withers away. The female plants produce short axillary spikes of female flowers; these spikes are about 1" long and covered with glandular hairs. Each female flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) long, consisting of a single sepal, an ovary with two styles, and no petals. The sepal wraps around the ovary, forming a beak at its apex; the 2 styles are exerted from this beak. The surface of the sepal is green and covered with glandular hairs that exude a characteristic odor when they are rubbed. At the base of each female flower, there is a single green bract that is lanceolate and longer than the flower. There are small leaves and other bracts along the spike as well.
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Pollination is by agency of the wind. Upon maturity, the female flowers turn brown, but the foliage of female plants remains green until the fall. Each female flower is replaced by an achene containing a single large seed. The root system consists of a branched taproot. This plant often forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Mesic conditions and other kinds of soil are also tolerated, but the size of plants will be smaller. Hemp is little bothered by pests and disease. It tolerates occasional flooding.
Range & Habitat: Hemp occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern portion of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Hemp is native to central Asia and it was introduced to the United States for agricultural purposes. Habitats include borders of floodplain woodlands, borders of low-lying fields, weedy meadows along rivers, fence rows, and roadside ditches. Occasionally, it is cultivated illegally in backyards and fields. This plant is found primarily in disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: There is little information about floral-faunal relationships for Hemp. The wind-pollinated flowers don't attract many insect pollinators. Mammalian herbivores avoid browsing on hemp when other plants are available.
Photographic Location: A roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Hemp has been cultivated in the United States since colonial times. The fibers of the central stem are quite strong; they have been used in making rope, paper, clothing, and other products. The foliage, flowers, and seeds of female plants contain chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. However, since World War II, it has been illegal in Illinois and other areas of the United States to cultivate hemp. The industrial form of this plant is Cannabis sativa sativa (Hemp), while the medicinal and recreational form is Cannabis sativa indica (Marijuana). It is usually the industrial form of this plant that is encountered in the wild; it has a more robust habit of growth and contains lower levels of chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. Hemp has a unique appearance and is easy to distinguish from other species of plants. A small specimen of Hemp superficially resembles some Potentilla spp. (Cinquefoils), especially Potentilla recta (Sulfur Cinquefoil), because of the similarity of their palmate leaves. However, the leaflets of Hemp are more elongated and tapered at their tips than Sulfur Cinquefoil. Furthermore, the flowers of Cinquefoils have 5 conspicuous petals that are white or yellow, like many other members of the Rose family, while the flowers of Hemp are devoid of petals.
Hemp is dioecious with both male and female plants. The male plants produce both axillary and terminal panicles of male flowers. These panicles are up to 1' long; they have small leafy bracts and pubescent stalks. Each male flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens with large anthers, and no petals. The oblong or lanceolate sepals are initially green, but they become cream or pale yellow with maturity. After these flowers have shed their pollen, the foliage of the male plant soon turns yellow and withers away. The female plants produce short axillary spikes of female flowers; these spikes are about 1" long and covered with glandular hairs. Each female flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) long, consisting of a single sepal, an ovary with two styles, and no petals. The sepal wraps around the ovary, forming a beak at its apex; the 2 styles are exerted from this beak. The surface of the sepal is green and covered with glandular hairs that exude a characteristic odor when they are rubbed. At the base of each female flower, there is a single green bract that is lanceolate and longer than the flower. There are small leaves and other bracts along the spike as well.
The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Pollination is by agency of the wind. Upon maturity, the female flowers turn brown, but the foliage of female plants remains green until the fall. Each female flower is replaced by an achene containing a single large seed. The root system consists of a branched taproot. This plant often forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Mesic conditions and other kinds of soil are also tolerated, but the size of plants will be smaller. Hemp is little bothered by pests and disease. It tolerates occasional flooding.
Range & Habitat: Hemp occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern portion of the state it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Hemp is native to central Asia and it was introduced to the United States for agricultural purposes. Habitats include borders of floodplain woodlands, borders of low-lying fields, weedy meadows along rivers, fence rows, and roadside ditches. Occasionally, it is cultivated illegally in backyards and fields. This plant is found primarily in disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: There is little information about floral-faunal relationships for Hemp. The wind-pollinated flowers don't attract many insect pollinators. Mammalian herbivores avoid browsing on hemp when other plants are available.
Photographic Location: A roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Hemp has been cultivated in the United States since colonial times. The fibers of the central stem are quite strong; they have been used in making rope, paper, clothing, and other products. The foliage, flowers, and seeds of female plants contain chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. However, since World War II, it has been illegal in Illinois and other areas of the United States to cultivate hemp. The industrial form of this plant is Cannabis sativa sativa (Hemp), while the medicinal and recreational form is Cannabis sativa indica (Marijuana). It is usually the industrial form of this plant that is encountered in the wild; it has a more robust habit of growth and contains lower levels of chemicals with medicinal and recreational properties. Hemp has a unique appearance and is easy to distinguish from other species of plants. A small specimen of Hemp superficially resembles some Potentilla spp. (Cinquefoils), especially Potentilla recta (Sulfur Cinquefoil), because of the similarity of their palmate leaves. However, the leaflets of Hemp are more elongated and tapered at their tips than Sulfur Cinquefoil. Furthermore, the flowers of Cinquefoils have 5 conspicuous petals that are white or yellow, like many other members of the Rose family, while the flowers of Hemp are devoid of petals.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月26日
Description: This plant is an annual or biennial about 1-3' tall. Small plants are branched sparingly, while large plants branch abundantly in the upper half. The stems are gray-green or gray-blue, terete, glabrous, and glaucous. Plants that begin growth during the fall will overwinter as low rosettes with basal leaves, while plants that begin growth during the spring bolt upward almost immediately. Both the basal and lower leaves are up to 10" long and 2" across, but they are usually smaller than this. They are oblanceolate in overall shape and strongly pinnatifid with undulate or bluntly dentate margins; their terminal lobes are the largest in size. Both types of leaves have stout petioles. In contrast, the middle to upper leaves are smaller in size, lanceolate-oblong in shape, with margins that are smooth or bluntly dentate. These latter leaves have bases that usually clasp their stems, although some of them may be sessile. Like the stems, these various leaves are grey-green or blue-green, glaucous, and usually glabrous – occasionally the basal leaves have short bristly hairs. The lower, middle, and upper leaves are alternate.
The upper stems terminate in racemes of bright yellow flowers. The flowers bloom toward the apex of each raceme, while the seedpods develop below. Each flower is 1/3–1/2" (8-12 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 green to yellow sepals, several stamens, and a pistil with a single style. The sepals are narrowly lanceolate and hairless. The blooming period can occur anytime between late spring to early fall; it usually lasts about 1 month for a small colony of plants. Each flower is replaced by an ascending cylindrical seedpod (silique) that is 1¼–2¼" long at maturity and hairless. Each seedpod terminates in a seedless beak that is about one-fourth its entire length. At the base of each seedpod, there is a stout hairless pedicel about ½" long that is widely spreading to ascending. Each seedpod divides into 2 valves to release its small globoid seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Rape Mustard prefers full sunlight, moist to dry conditions, and a neutral to alkaline soil containing loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. The size of individual plants varies greatly according to moisture conditions and soil fertility.
Range & Habitat: Rape Mustard is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is native to Eurasia. Typical habitats include cropland, weedy fields, roadsides, gravelly areas along railroads, and waste areas. This plant is usually found in areas with a history of disturbance where there is scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts small bees and White butterflies (Pieridae); some bees may collect pollen from the flowers as well. The caterpillars of the butterflies Pieris napi (Mustard White), Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), and Pontia protodice (Checkered White) feed on Brassica spp. (Mustards), as do the caterpillars of the moths Evergestis pallidata (Purple-Backed Cabbageworm) and Plutella xylostella (Diamondback Moth). Several species of flea beetles (primarily Phyllotreta spp.), Murgantia histrionica (Harlequin Bug), and Adelphocoris superbus (Meadow Plant Bug) also feed on the foliage of these plants. The oily seeds of Rape Mustard and similar species are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Ring-Necked Pheasant, and the mild-tasting foliage can be eaten in limited amounts by livestock and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: A gravelly area along a railroad in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: This is another weedy mustard species from Eurasia. It should not be confused with the agricultural crop, Oilseed Rape (or Canola), which is Brassica napus oleifera, or one of the cultivated vegetables. Rape Mustard has several common names, including Field Mustard and Birdseed Rape. In general, Rape Mustard can be distinguished from other Brassica spp. (Mustards) by its glaucous gray-blue or gray-green foliage and its clasping alternate leaves. A similar species, Brassica oleracea (Wild Cabbage), shares these characteristics, but this latter species has larger flowers (exceeding ½" across) and it is quite rare in Illinois. Oilseed Rape has foliage that is more green than either Rape Mustard or Wild Cabbage, and its foliage isn't glaucous.
The upper stems terminate in racemes of bright yellow flowers. The flowers bloom toward the apex of each raceme, while the seedpods develop below. Each flower is 1/3–1/2" (8-12 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 green to yellow sepals, several stamens, and a pistil with a single style. The sepals are narrowly lanceolate and hairless. The blooming period can occur anytime between late spring to early fall; it usually lasts about 1 month for a small colony of plants. Each flower is replaced by an ascending cylindrical seedpod (silique) that is 1¼–2¼" long at maturity and hairless. Each seedpod terminates in a seedless beak that is about one-fourth its entire length. At the base of each seedpod, there is a stout hairless pedicel about ½" long that is widely spreading to ascending. Each seedpod divides into 2 valves to release its small globoid seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Rape Mustard prefers full sunlight, moist to dry conditions, and a neutral to alkaline soil containing loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. The size of individual plants varies greatly according to moisture conditions and soil fertility.
Range & Habitat: Rape Mustard is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is native to Eurasia. Typical habitats include cropland, weedy fields, roadsides, gravelly areas along railroads, and waste areas. This plant is usually found in areas with a history of disturbance where there is scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts small bees and White butterflies (Pieridae); some bees may collect pollen from the flowers as well. The caterpillars of the butterflies Pieris napi (Mustard White), Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), and Pontia protodice (Checkered White) feed on Brassica spp. (Mustards), as do the caterpillars of the moths Evergestis pallidata (Purple-Backed Cabbageworm) and Plutella xylostella (Diamondback Moth). Several species of flea beetles (primarily Phyllotreta spp.), Murgantia histrionica (Harlequin Bug), and Adelphocoris superbus (Meadow Plant Bug) also feed on the foliage of these plants. The oily seeds of Rape Mustard and similar species are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Ring-Necked Pheasant, and the mild-tasting foliage can be eaten in limited amounts by livestock and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: A gravelly area along a railroad in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: This is another weedy mustard species from Eurasia. It should not be confused with the agricultural crop, Oilseed Rape (or Canola), which is Brassica napus oleifera, or one of the cultivated vegetables. Rape Mustard has several common names, including Field Mustard and Birdseed Rape. In general, Rape Mustard can be distinguished from other Brassica spp. (Mustards) by its glaucous gray-blue or gray-green foliage and its clasping alternate leaves. A similar species, Brassica oleracea (Wild Cabbage), shares these characteristics, but this latter species has larger flowers (exceeding ½" across) and it is quite rare in Illinois. Oilseed Rape has foliage that is more green than either Rape Mustard or Wild Cabbage, and its foliage isn't glaucous.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Vine-variety cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, require a lot of space to produce a healthy, continuous crop throughout the season. Using tomato cages to train cucumbers for vertical growth gives the plants lots of breathing room, aids in the formation of perfectly straight fruits and helps keep pests and soil-borne diseases at bay. When garden space is at a premium, training cucumbers vertically can also free up a great deal of garden real estate.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Knowing when to plant your vegetable garden ensures a healthy growth cycle and harvest no matter where you live. Different areas have much different planting times. Michigan gardeners, for example, have cold winters and sometimes late springs, depending on which part of the state they live in. Timing for warm-season, cool-season and tender crops varies greatly and relies heavily on soil temperature and frost dates.
Warm- Vs Cool-Season Crops
Not all vegetable crops require the same season or temperatures to grow vigorously, nor are they all equally tolerant of frost, shade, heat or snow. Warm-season crops are those that grow best during the warmer parts of the season. These include sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumbers (Cucumis sativa), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and melons (Cucumis melo); all of these are tender crops that are susceptible to frost damage or even death by frost. Cool-season vegetables, on the other hand, prefer the cooler temperatures of fall and spring. Many are frost-tolerant, some to temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Onions (Allium sepa), peas (Pisum sativum), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), leafy lettuces (Lactuca sativa) and cole crops (Brassica oleracea) are all cool-season vegetables. Cole crops include kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and cabbage. Cool-season vegetables tend to bolt, become tough or woody or have otherwise adverse flavors or textures when grown in summer.
Frost Dates
Many cool-season vegetables can handle planting times as early as the soil thaws and is workable, usually late March through early April in southern Michigan and three weeks later in the most northern parts. Tender, warm-season crops, however, require much warmer soil temperatures and must wait until the danger of frost has passed. Planting on Memorial Day is a good rule of thumb, but frost dangers occur frequently throughout much of Michigan in spring. If you plant around mid- to late May, keep an eye on the weather forecast and cover your seedlings or transplants if temperatures will fall below 40 degrees F.
Checking Soil Temperature
Checking the soil temperature helps ensure your ground is ready for various types of seeds. Different crops grow best at different soil temperatures. Purchase a soil thermometer from your local hardware store or garden center; you can also use any thermometer that has the capability of reading temperatures at different depths. Many tender warm-season crops require a soil temperature of between 64 and 75 degrees F, while tomatoes and corn grow well when planted at around 55 degrees F. Cold-tolerant crops will germinate and grow at a soil temperature of around 45 degrees F.
Days to Harvest
For fall planting, knowing the days to harvest, sometimes called days to maturity, of each crop will help you determine when to plant the seeds. The days to harvest is listed on each seed packet and determines how many days a seed takes to mature and produce harvest-ready fruit. For warm-season crops with short growing times, you can often plant twice during the summer. Subtract the days to harvest from your last average fall frost date to give you a planting date for frost-tender vegetables.
Warm- Vs Cool-Season Crops
Not all vegetable crops require the same season or temperatures to grow vigorously, nor are they all equally tolerant of frost, shade, heat or snow. Warm-season crops are those that grow best during the warmer parts of the season. These include sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumbers (Cucumis sativa), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and melons (Cucumis melo); all of these are tender crops that are susceptible to frost damage or even death by frost. Cool-season vegetables, on the other hand, prefer the cooler temperatures of fall and spring. Many are frost-tolerant, some to temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Onions (Allium sepa), peas (Pisum sativum), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), leafy lettuces (Lactuca sativa) and cole crops (Brassica oleracea) are all cool-season vegetables. Cole crops include kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and cabbage. Cool-season vegetables tend to bolt, become tough or woody or have otherwise adverse flavors or textures when grown in summer.
Frost Dates
Many cool-season vegetables can handle planting times as early as the soil thaws and is workable, usually late March through early April in southern Michigan and three weeks later in the most northern parts. Tender, warm-season crops, however, require much warmer soil temperatures and must wait until the danger of frost has passed. Planting on Memorial Day is a good rule of thumb, but frost dangers occur frequently throughout much of Michigan in spring. If you plant around mid- to late May, keep an eye on the weather forecast and cover your seedlings or transplants if temperatures will fall below 40 degrees F.
Checking Soil Temperature
Checking the soil temperature helps ensure your ground is ready for various types of seeds. Different crops grow best at different soil temperatures. Purchase a soil thermometer from your local hardware store or garden center; you can also use any thermometer that has the capability of reading temperatures at different depths. Many tender warm-season crops require a soil temperature of between 64 and 75 degrees F, while tomatoes and corn grow well when planted at around 55 degrees F. Cold-tolerant crops will germinate and grow at a soil temperature of around 45 degrees F.
Days to Harvest
For fall planting, knowing the days to harvest, sometimes called days to maturity, of each crop will help you determine when to plant the seeds. The days to harvest is listed on each seed packet and determines how many days a seed takes to mature and produce harvest-ready fruit. For warm-season crops with short growing times, you can often plant twice during the summer. Subtract the days to harvest from your last average fall frost date to give you a planting date for frost-tender vegetables.
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成长记
Plantlin
2018年07月08日
And here are some details of my super nice new plant:):) I has so much new growth!
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Whether your lettuce will regrow when you cut it depends on the type of lettuce in question. It also depends on the weather, and when you cut the lettuce within its growth cycle.
Types
Lettuce comes in five types: leaf, crisphead, butterhead, romaine (also called cos), and stem. Leaf lettuce will grow back up to three times if you cut it, according to plant expert and nursery owner Rose Marie Nichols McGee.
Time Frame
Lettuce is temperature sensitive, and quickly turns bitter and goes to seed when temperatures get too hot. Therefore, to successfully trim your leaf lettuces and have them regrow, you must plant early enough in the spring to have time for the lettuce to grow back after you trim it. Check with your local county extension office for the best planting times for your area.
Method
Called "cut-and-come-again harvesting" by Rose Marie Nichols McGee and the University of Maryland College of Agricultural and Natural Resources, cut your leaf lettuce with sharp shears when it reaches 6 to 10 inches high. Water and fertilize it to harvest again in two to three weeks. Stagger harvests and seed sowing to have a continual harvest before cool spring turns into hot summer.
Types
Lettuce comes in five types: leaf, crisphead, butterhead, romaine (also called cos), and stem. Leaf lettuce will grow back up to three times if you cut it, according to plant expert and nursery owner Rose Marie Nichols McGee.
Time Frame
Lettuce is temperature sensitive, and quickly turns bitter and goes to seed when temperatures get too hot. Therefore, to successfully trim your leaf lettuces and have them regrow, you must plant early enough in the spring to have time for the lettuce to grow back after you trim it. Check with your local county extension office for the best planting times for your area.
Method
Called "cut-and-come-again harvesting" by Rose Marie Nichols McGee and the University of Maryland College of Agricultural and Natural Resources, cut your leaf lettuce with sharp shears when it reaches 6 to 10 inches high. Water and fertilize it to harvest again in two to three weeks. Stagger harvests and seed sowing to have a continual harvest before cool spring turns into hot summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
The Aeonium genus includes about 35 succulent plants, mostly hailing from the Canary Islands. Members of the Crassulaceae family, these generally follow the growth recommendations for most succulents: lots of light, perfect drainage, and not too much water. Like other succulents, these are also highly prized for their beautiful foliage. On the most popular variety, the leaves are held on a nearly bare branch and grow in attractive rosettes that turn a deep, burgundy red in the summer time.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) grow during the cool season, growing from seed to harvest size in as little as 65 days. Although both plants can survive a freeze, extended periods of cold can slow growth or damage the plants. Waiting to plant until the temperatures are right for the best growth, and providing some protection from extreme cold, keeps the plants healthy and productive.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
An essential nutrient, all plants must have boron for normal, healthy growth. Because plants only require it in small quantities, it's categorized as a micronutrient. But boron is just as critical as nitrogen and other elements that plants need in larger amounts. Some vegetables prefer more of this micronutrient than other plants require, but adding boron to your vegetable garden demands great care. The range where boron helps plant growth is narrow. Too little boron causes poor vegetable production, but even slightly too much of this common element can leave soil toxic to all plant life.
What Boron Does for Plants
Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all.
Different Vegetable Requirements
Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly.
Testing Before Adding
Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall.
Adding Boron to Soil
When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
What Boron Does for Plants
Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all.
Different Vegetable Requirements
Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly.
Testing Before Adding
Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall.
Adding Boron to Soil
When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
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