文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
The thought of meaty, earthy morels gets even the most jaded mushroom hunter excited. Yet, morels can be as unpredictable as they are delicious. Conditions for morel growth need to be perfect, and they're picky about which trees they'll grow near. Different morel varieties, or morels in different regions, may prefer particular trees. Most morel trees are hardwood species, and they're frequently old, dead or dying--though this isn't always the case.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月29日
Morels are highly prized among mushroom hunters. Their emergence is influenced by soil temperatures. Taking the soil temperature in an area where morels are known to grow is an effective way to gauge when they may appear.
Morel Growth and Emergence
When soil temperatures are ideal, the body of the morel begins to fruit as a tiny knot on an underground network of mycelium, a complex of long, thread-like fungi cells. The knot rapidly enlarges until it becomes a tiny club that pushes its way to the soil surface.
Ideal Temperatures
Morels grown under controlled conditions for commercial purposes fruit when the soil reaches a consistent temperature of approximately 53 degrees F. Wild morels also appear under these conditions.
Taking Soil Temperature
Use a probe-type digital thermometer to take soil temperatures. Take the temperature daily and be consistent. Take it in the same spot, at the same time and at the same depth (preferably 2 to 6 inches).
Effects of Temperature Fluctuations
Many factors can influence the soil temperature, including the amount of leaf litter or debris on the ground, the amount of sunlight, rain and air temperature. When weather conditions cause the soil temperature to increase rapidly, morels will appear suddenly. If soil temperature warms slowly, morels take longer to develop.
Morel Growth and Emergence
When soil temperatures are ideal, the body of the morel begins to fruit as a tiny knot on an underground network of mycelium, a complex of long, thread-like fungi cells. The knot rapidly enlarges until it becomes a tiny club that pushes its way to the soil surface.
Ideal Temperatures
Morels grown under controlled conditions for commercial purposes fruit when the soil reaches a consistent temperature of approximately 53 degrees F. Wild morels also appear under these conditions.
Taking Soil Temperature
Use a probe-type digital thermometer to take soil temperatures. Take the temperature daily and be consistent. Take it in the same spot, at the same time and at the same depth (preferably 2 to 6 inches).
Effects of Temperature Fluctuations
Many factors can influence the soil temperature, including the amount of leaf litter or debris on the ground, the amount of sunlight, rain and air temperature. When weather conditions cause the soil temperature to increase rapidly, morels will appear suddenly. If soil temperature warms slowly, morels take longer to develop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月26日
Mushrooms go through three states to become the fungi you enjoy in various dishes. The first stage is the spawning stage, the second stage is the vegetative growth state and the third is the fruiting stage. The production of spawn is difficult and best left to professional mushroom growers. Obtain your spawn from them after you've prepared your own mushroom growing box at home and seasoned the compost properly. If you do things right, in about eight weeks, you should see a crop of mushrooms in the final fruiting stage.
Step 1
Put on a pair of rubber gloves before you begin. You want a mushroom-growing environment that is as sterile as possible to keep bacteria and pests from making their homes in your mushroom growing box.
Step 2
Cut a piece from a roll of plastic sheeting to fit inside a 20-qt. plastic storage container. Pull the plastic tight inside the container, cover the sides and secure the plastic over the rim of the container with box tape.
Step 3
Fill the container 2/3 full with organic compost. Measure the temperature of the compost. The temperature of the compost needs to be below 86 degree F to add the spawn.
Step 4
Add the mushroom spawn and combine it evenly with the compost using your hands. If you decide to use a small shovel to add the spawn, you must sterilize the instrument first with hydrogen peroxide.
Step 5
Place the container in a dark and moderately warm place where you can monitor the temperature and humidity level. Indirect light on the mushroom box is alright.
Step 6
Check the box often for three to four days for mycelia growth. You will see a fibrous substance that is either gray or white making its way through the top of the compost. Wait about 10 days to allow the spawn to go through all of the compost before you apply the casing, or sphagnum moss.
Step 7
Remove the sphagnum moss from its sterile packaging and moisten it with water. Cover the mycelia an even layer, 8 or 9 inches thick, with the sphagnum moss. This casing encourages the mycelia, or vegetative state, to convert to the fruiting state.
Step 8
If you smell ammonia in the compost, do not add the mushroom spawn, as the mushrooms are not likely to grow in this medium. When ammonia is present, the compost is not complete. After you harvest the first growth of mushrooms, additional crops will grow for up to a month.
Step 1
Put on a pair of rubber gloves before you begin. You want a mushroom-growing environment that is as sterile as possible to keep bacteria and pests from making their homes in your mushroom growing box.
Step 2
Cut a piece from a roll of plastic sheeting to fit inside a 20-qt. plastic storage container. Pull the plastic tight inside the container, cover the sides and secure the plastic over the rim of the container with box tape.
Step 3
Fill the container 2/3 full with organic compost. Measure the temperature of the compost. The temperature of the compost needs to be below 86 degree F to add the spawn.
Step 4
Add the mushroom spawn and combine it evenly with the compost using your hands. If you decide to use a small shovel to add the spawn, you must sterilize the instrument first with hydrogen peroxide.
Step 5
Place the container in a dark and moderately warm place where you can monitor the temperature and humidity level. Indirect light on the mushroom box is alright.
Step 6
Check the box often for three to four days for mycelia growth. You will see a fibrous substance that is either gray or white making its way through the top of the compost. Wait about 10 days to allow the spawn to go through all of the compost before you apply the casing, or sphagnum moss.
Step 7
Remove the sphagnum moss from its sterile packaging and moisten it with water. Cover the mycelia an even layer, 8 or 9 inches thick, with the sphagnum moss. This casing encourages the mycelia, or vegetative state, to convert to the fruiting state.
Step 8
If you smell ammonia in the compost, do not add the mushroom spawn, as the mushrooms are not likely to grow in this medium. When ammonia is present, the compost is not complete. After you harvest the first growth of mushrooms, additional crops will grow for up to a month.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
The juicy, lush flavor and rampant, easy-care growth makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) a garden favorite. While humans enjoy the sweet, tart flavor of the fruits, caterpillars are also attracted to the tomato plants, requiring quick action to remove the hungry invaders. Although the tomato plants will keep producing fruits, reducing the number of caterpillars on the plants will increase the harvest. Removal methods range from hand-picking to spraying insecticides.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Though generally grown as warm-season annuals, prized for their fast growth and juicy, sweet fruit, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are technically frost-tender perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Wilting in a tomato plant can be a symptom of several problems. Perk up your droopy tomatoes so you can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Tomatoes are 90 percent water. Thus, dehydration can lead to significant fruit loss and stunted growth. If you notice a plant wilting and the soil is dry, drought stress is likely the chief culprit. Tomatoes typically need watering once every four days in light, sandy soil and once a week if grown in heavier soil. When watering tomatoes, always use enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Deep watering encourages the plant to extend its roots farther into the soil, increasing plant vigor and lowering risks of future drought stress. To conserve soil moisture, consider spreading mulch around the base of the plants, but keep mulch from touching the stems.
Sprinkle Some Salt
It may sound unconventional, but salt may do the trick. If you notice wilting, stunted leaf development and yellowing, the tomatoes may be suffering from a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salt is a naturally rich source of magnesium and may boost tomato growth and make the plant greener and more lush. Mix a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of tap water, pour it into a spray bottle and mist the solution onto the tomato plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant evenly.
Check for Pests
Tomato plants occasionally suffer from pest infestations, and this may cause plant stress, wilting, leaf drop and fruit loss. Common tomato pests that cause wilted foliage include aphids and whiteflies, which suck on the plant's juices. Aphids appear as little green, black, red or brown spots on the plant. Whiteflies, as their name implies, are tiny flies with a dusty white appearance that tend to group on the underside of leaves. Both pests can be managed by spraying tomato plants with a strong blast of water from a backyard garden hose. This dislodges and kills pests and can keep pest populations at a level low enough that they don't cause lasting harm to the tomatoes.
Or, try an insecticidal soap. Make your own at home by mixing 5 tablespoons of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water. Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant. The solution kills aphids and whiteflies on contact. Repeat once a week as needed.
Fight Fungus
Inspect the wilted foliage. If you see brown or black growths on the leaves, the tomatoes may be suffering from a fungal infection. Such problems are best controlled and prevented with proper sanitation. Wipe a pair of pruning shears with rubbing alcohol to sterilize it, then snip off any affected stems and leaves that have mold or other fungal growths.
Once you remove diseased plant parts, prevent future disease by monitoring your tomato care practices. Change your watering practices to ensure you're only watering at the base of each tomato plant, since overhead irrigation and damp foliage makes leaves susceptible to disease. Always use mulch, as that prevents soil from splashing up on your tomatoes which can increase the risks of plant disease. Finally, the next time you plant tomatoes, plant them in a new section of your backyard and space them farther apart to ensure proper air circulation among the plants. Ideally, plants should be approximately 2 feet apart.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Tomatoes are 90 percent water. Thus, dehydration can lead to significant fruit loss and stunted growth. If you notice a plant wilting and the soil is dry, drought stress is likely the chief culprit. Tomatoes typically need watering once every four days in light, sandy soil and once a week if grown in heavier soil. When watering tomatoes, always use enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Deep watering encourages the plant to extend its roots farther into the soil, increasing plant vigor and lowering risks of future drought stress. To conserve soil moisture, consider spreading mulch around the base of the plants, but keep mulch from touching the stems.
Sprinkle Some Salt
It may sound unconventional, but salt may do the trick. If you notice wilting, stunted leaf development and yellowing, the tomatoes may be suffering from a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salt is a naturally rich source of magnesium and may boost tomato growth and make the plant greener and more lush. Mix a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of tap water, pour it into a spray bottle and mist the solution onto the tomato plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant evenly.
Check for Pests
Tomato plants occasionally suffer from pest infestations, and this may cause plant stress, wilting, leaf drop and fruit loss. Common tomato pests that cause wilted foliage include aphids and whiteflies, which suck on the plant's juices. Aphids appear as little green, black, red or brown spots on the plant. Whiteflies, as their name implies, are tiny flies with a dusty white appearance that tend to group on the underside of leaves. Both pests can be managed by spraying tomato plants with a strong blast of water from a backyard garden hose. This dislodges and kills pests and can keep pest populations at a level low enough that they don't cause lasting harm to the tomatoes.
Or, try an insecticidal soap. Make your own at home by mixing 5 tablespoons of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water. Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant. The solution kills aphids and whiteflies on contact. Repeat once a week as needed.
Fight Fungus
Inspect the wilted foliage. If you see brown or black growths on the leaves, the tomatoes may be suffering from a fungal infection. Such problems are best controlled and prevented with proper sanitation. Wipe a pair of pruning shears with rubbing alcohol to sterilize it, then snip off any affected stems and leaves that have mold or other fungal growths.
Once you remove diseased plant parts, prevent future disease by monitoring your tomato care practices. Change your watering practices to ensure you're only watering at the base of each tomato plant, since overhead irrigation and damp foliage makes leaves susceptible to disease. Always use mulch, as that prevents soil from splashing up on your tomatoes which can increase the risks of plant disease. Finally, the next time you plant tomatoes, plant them in a new section of your backyard and space them farther apart to ensure proper air circulation among the plants. Ideally, plants should be approximately 2 feet apart.
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成长记
kimberly
2017年11月22日
My Crassula Argentea is starting to grow. Also found some new growth in one of my Sedum Burrito pots. My attempt at propagating Cotyledon Tomentosa variegata has failed.
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Mohamad.hamidizade：Nice good job im love it all cerasulla
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are tropical perennials that are typically grown as annuals. Not counting the germination of seeds, tomatoes go through roughly four stages of growth: vegetative growth as the seedlings develop, first flowering, first setting of tomatoes and growth of tomatoes until they're ripe and ready for harvest. The duration of these stages vary, depending on the tomato cultivar and the weather.
Counting the Days
Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F.
Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer.
The Crux
Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes.
Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature.
Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem.
Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days.
'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days.
'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days.
Determinate Tomatoes
Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period.
Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days.
'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days.
'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days.
Growing Tomatoes
Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
Counting the Days
Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F.
Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer.
The Crux
Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes.
Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature.
Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem.
Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days.
'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days.
'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days.
Determinate Tomatoes
Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period.
Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days.
'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days.
'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days.
Growing Tomatoes
Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Epsom salt consists simply of magnesium sulfate. It is often used to ease the pain of sore or tired feet in a foot bath, but it can also be used in the garden to enhance performance of fruit. It is reported to improve the growth of tomatoes and stop blossom end rot that can totally rot a tomato.
Magnesium
Epsom salt provides a good source of magnesium. Magnesium aids in chlorophyll production in plants. It is important because it enhances photosynthesis, or the manner in which plants breathe. They breathe in carbon dioxide and put out oxygen. Magnesium is usually found in the soil and is often included in many fertilizers.
Sulfur
Sulfur is a component in Epsom salt. Sulfur gives plants protein and other enzymes necessary for them to grow strong. Roots grow better with the benefit of sulfur and it helps plants endure colder temperatures. Sulfur is naturally delivered to plants through rain, but often they need a little boost.
Magnesium Deficiency
Yellowing leaves starting at the bottom and progressing to the top are one sign of a magnesium deficiency. Blossom end rot is also a sign. This is when the tomato blossom causes a large black spot on the very bottom of the fruit that gets bigger and bigger as the tomato grows. Eventually it will rot all the way through the tomato, rendering it useless.
How to Use
Place a few granules of Epsom salt in the hole before planting the tomato plant. Once blossoms appear on the plant, sprinkle 1 tbsp. Epsom salt per foot of plant height around the base of the stem. Scratch it into the soil and water well. A plant 2 feet high should be treated with 2 tbsp. Epsom salt, while a plant less than 12 inches high will do with 1 tbsp. Apply every other week.
Other Uses
Dissolve 1 tbsp. Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water. Place some in a spray bottle and use this to spray on the fruit and foliage. This will keep the foliage green and also increase the thickness of the walls of the fruit, making for a delicious tomato. There is no real scientific evidence that Epsom salt works on tomatoes, but many gardeners have been using the substance with both tomatoes and peppers for years with great success.
Magnesium
Epsom salt provides a good source of magnesium. Magnesium aids in chlorophyll production in plants. It is important because it enhances photosynthesis, or the manner in which plants breathe. They breathe in carbon dioxide and put out oxygen. Magnesium is usually found in the soil and is often included in many fertilizers.
Sulfur
Sulfur is a component in Epsom salt. Sulfur gives plants protein and other enzymes necessary for them to grow strong. Roots grow better with the benefit of sulfur and it helps plants endure colder temperatures. Sulfur is naturally delivered to plants through rain, but often they need a little boost.
Magnesium Deficiency
Yellowing leaves starting at the bottom and progressing to the top are one sign of a magnesium deficiency. Blossom end rot is also a sign. This is when the tomato blossom causes a large black spot on the very bottom of the fruit that gets bigger and bigger as the tomato grows. Eventually it will rot all the way through the tomato, rendering it useless.
How to Use
Place a few granules of Epsom salt in the hole before planting the tomato plant. Once blossoms appear on the plant, sprinkle 1 tbsp. Epsom salt per foot of plant height around the base of the stem. Scratch it into the soil and water well. A plant 2 feet high should be treated with 2 tbsp. Epsom salt, while a plant less than 12 inches high will do with 1 tbsp. Apply every other week.
Other Uses
Dissolve 1 tbsp. Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water. Place some in a spray bottle and use this to spray on the fruit and foliage. This will keep the foliage green and also increase the thickness of the walls of the fruit, making for a delicious tomato. There is no real scientific evidence that Epsom salt works on tomatoes, but many gardeners have been using the substance with both tomatoes and peppers for years with great success.
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成长记
astronbot
2017年11月14日
wanted to take a pic to track his growth. he should be much happier now under the grow light.
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成长记
kimberly
2017年11月13日
Found some new growth in one of my Crassula Marnieriana pots.
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rocky500：Beautiful!
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes require a deep root system to help pull water from the soil and keep full plants structurally sound. Helping the plant create a deep root system starts at planting. Deep root growth is increased in tomatoes when the seedlings are set deep in the soil, given plenty of water and given adequate space between plants. Tomatoes with deep root growth are more likely to also have an increase in fruit production over shallow-rooted plants.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes come in varieties with different grow habits. The fruits can be grown on plants with a determinate, indeterminate and even semi-determinate manner. The manner of growth will determine if and how you will be pruning the plants. Pruning tomatoes is not necessary, but may increase the size of fruit marginally and will make the plants easier to manage. Pruning usually means removal of suckers and occasionally pinching back to enhance compact growth and stem strength. The difference between determinate and indeterminate ultimately boils down to the length of harvest and the time of harvest. Determinates produce fruit first, usually in a two- to three-week period, while indeterminate varieties will produce fruit for a longer period, but near the end of the summer.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Gardeners often marvel over towering tomato plants in the garden. What many people do not know is that too much upward growth of the tomato plant can cause problems with the fruit. After the first month of growth, tomatoes can double their size every 12 to 15 days. The plant variety, weather conditions, soil and pruning all affect how tall the tomato plant will grow.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are very demanding in terms of the soil conditions they require for good growth and fruit production, and those conditions don't often occur naturally in Ohio. With careful site selection and soil preparation, however, most Ohio gardeners can produce blueberry crops in their backyards.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
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