文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
While these notes focus on pests and diseases of cacti and succulents, incorrect cultural conditions are a major cause of poor growth or loss of house plants in general. The single commonest cultural problem is over-watering, with the roots left wet for excessively long periods resulting in rotting. Other growth problems are related to insufficient light and too low or high a temperature. Most cacti and succulents are expected to flower when they reach the mature size, or even before, and failure to flower may indicate unsatisfactory growing conditions.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
1
1
成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月24日
I span the pot for out Golden Pothos Round to try and get it to fill out at what was the back of the pot. its also allowed me to manipulatethe direction of the growth a bit better too
2
0
Kang：Scindapsus？
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Plants that become leggy or floppy tend to fall over, produce less flowers and create an untidy spindly appearance. There are a couple of reasons why plants are tall and leggy. Leggy plant growth may be the result of too much nitrogen or even low light situations. It is also just simply common to some species. Learn how to keep plants from getting leggy and have bushier, more bountiful flora.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
0
0
成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月23日
Roots already! I realt wasn't expecting to have growth already, so hadn't planned to log this for at least a couple of weeks!
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Columnar Cacti earned their common name from the slender shape and erect growth habit they exhibit. Several unrelated species are known by the name Columnar Cacti, including Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis), Firecracker Cactus (Cleistocactus smaragdiflorus) and giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea).
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
For a typical leafy plant, for good growth you keep the soil moist and don’t skimp on the watering. When dealing with succulent plants, different rules apply. Succulent plants store extra water in their leaves, roots or stems to survive long periods of heat and no rainfall. If you are overly generous, they fill up their water storage tissues, become bloated and can actually split open. Soil kept too wet prevents air from reaching the roots, and they die, leading to soft rot.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
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6
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Soils are essential for life on earth and critical in many of the environmental challenges facing the earth. Most plants depend on soils as a suitable medium for growth by providing at least six factors for plant growth: physical support for anchoring the root system, aeration and ventilation for the roots, pores for absorbing rainwater and holding it for use by the roots, moderation of temperature fluctuations, protection from phytotoxic substances, and supplying inorganic minerals in the form of dissolved nutrients.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Jatropha genus includes a very wide variety of plants native to the warmer regions of the world. They range from tropical plants to semi-arid subtropical plants that resemble succulents in their growth patterns. Depending on where you live, you might see different types of Jatropha. One of the most popular in the United States nursery trade is the Jatropha integerrima, which is grown for its sprays of shocking and beautiful red flowers.
Like many species in the Euphorbiaceae family, these plants are toxic and should not be located in areas where curious children or pets might decide to sample them. If, however, you have the right location and safety is not a concern, these are wonderful plants, both for their ease of cultivation and their beauty.
Growing Conditions
Light: It somewhat depends on the species, so ask your garden center staff. Many Jatropha prefer bright and sunny conditions, while others thrive in partial shade.
Water: Provide regular water during the growing season, and reduce watering during the winter. Immaculate drainage is important, and some species are very drought tolerant. Jatropha integerrima is drought tolerant.
Soil: A rich typical potting mix will do fine. Provide lots of coarse drainage material and get into the habit of watering daily.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Jatropha can be propagated by seed (if you’re fortunate enough to get sides) or by stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, remove a small piece of stem, dip it in rooting hormone, then pot into a small pot with seedling starter soil. Place in a warm, bright place and wait for new growth to emerge.
Repotting
Annually, in the beginning of the growing season. Many Jatropha species are naturally small shrubs, ranging up to 15 feet (4.5 m) in height. To keep your indoor container plant manageable, trim it to size and possibly root prune older plants. Much larger plants should be refreshed occasionally by removing the top several inches of potting soil and replacing it with fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
The key to growing successful Jatropha is to achieve the proper balance between moisture and drainage. They typically appreciate a steady supply of water, but the most popular species cannot tolerate being submerged or soaked and will quickly succumb to root rot. Many of the popular Jatropha species make excellent small trees for a conservatory or sunny corner. Keep them well pruned so they don’t outgrow their space too soon. Jatropha are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
Like many species in the Euphorbiaceae family, these plants are toxic and should not be located in areas where curious children or pets might decide to sample them. If, however, you have the right location and safety is not a concern, these are wonderful plants, both for their ease of cultivation and their beauty.
Growing Conditions
Light: It somewhat depends on the species, so ask your garden center staff. Many Jatropha prefer bright and sunny conditions, while others thrive in partial shade.
Water: Provide regular water during the growing season, and reduce watering during the winter. Immaculate drainage is important, and some species are very drought tolerant. Jatropha integerrima is drought tolerant.
Soil: A rich typical potting mix will do fine. Provide lots of coarse drainage material and get into the habit of watering daily.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Jatropha can be propagated by seed (if you’re fortunate enough to get sides) or by stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, remove a small piece of stem, dip it in rooting hormone, then pot into a small pot with seedling starter soil. Place in a warm, bright place and wait for new growth to emerge.
Repotting
Annually, in the beginning of the growing season. Many Jatropha species are naturally small shrubs, ranging up to 15 feet (4.5 m) in height. To keep your indoor container plant manageable, trim it to size and possibly root prune older plants. Much larger plants should be refreshed occasionally by removing the top several inches of potting soil and replacing it with fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
The key to growing successful Jatropha is to achieve the proper balance between moisture and drainage. They typically appreciate a steady supply of water, but the most popular species cannot tolerate being submerged or soaked and will quickly succumb to root rot. Many of the popular Jatropha species make excellent small trees for a conservatory or sunny corner. Keep them well pruned so they don’t outgrow their space too soon. Jatropha are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Blossom-end rot, which begins with a small watery bruise on the blossom end of the fruit, is the result of a lack of calcium in developing fruits. This calcium deficiency can be a result of slow growth, damaged roots induced by extreme fluctuations in the surrounding soil moisture content, an excess of salts, or other fluctuating conditions during plant growth. Calcium deficiencies cause actively growing cells to die because they cannot retain water and nutrients.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sycamore anthracnose is a fungal disease that can cause leaf drop, twig dieback, cankers and the sudden death of more than 90% of a tree’s new shoot growth. Although the disease is rarely fatal and trees will grow a second set of leaves, repeat infections will result in abnormal branching and will leave a tree stressed and more susceptible to other diseases and pests. American sycamore or buttonwood (Platanus occidentalis), London plane tree (P. x acerifolia) and Oriental plane tree (P. orientalis) may all be affected by sycamore anthracnose.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Kabatina blight is caused by the fungal organism Kabatina juniperi. It results in tip dieback of one year-old growth, causing death to terminal branch ends. It is a problem of junipers, cypress, and arborvitae in North America and Europe. 
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Kabatina symptoms occur in late winter or early spring, generally in February and March, when the terminal 2-6 inches of diseased growth turns a dull green or yellow brown and then red or yellow as the infection progresses. Damage can be confused with winter injury. This disease may also be confused with phomopsis tip blight as both may result in dead tips but symptom occurance is quite different for the two diseases. Phomopsis blight infection occurs in spring and results in the yellowing and death of new, succulent juvenile foliage. Once the needles are fully green and mature phomopsis is not capable of causing infection. Kabatina, however, can infect mature foliage in the fall, winter or the following spring.
Life Cycle
The disease survives on infected plant debris as grayish lessions at the base of blighted portions of shoots. Fruiting bodies develop as small black "pimples," numerous in spring and diminish as the season progresses.The spores are moved by rain and irrigation and enter wounds or small opening caused by mechanical damage or insect feeding. The primary infection time is believed to be in fall although symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring. (Note: Symptoms of phomopsis tip blight occur in late spring as the new growth develops.)
Integrated Pest Mangement
1. Sanitation. Prune and destroy infected twigs and branches during dry weather. Avoid unnesessary wounding during wet weather which can provide entry points for the fungus. Damage is restricted to tips and doesn't cause death of the plant.
2. Good culture. Maintain adequate fertility for the plants but do not over fertilize. Avoid watering at night when the plants will remain wet all night long.
3. Fungicides. There are no fungicides currently registerd to control kabatina blight.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Kabatina symptoms occur in late winter or early spring, generally in February and March, when the terminal 2-6 inches of diseased growth turns a dull green or yellow brown and then red or yellow as the infection progresses. Damage can be confused with winter injury. This disease may also be confused with phomopsis tip blight as both may result in dead tips but symptom occurance is quite different for the two diseases. Phomopsis blight infection occurs in spring and results in the yellowing and death of new, succulent juvenile foliage. Once the needles are fully green and mature phomopsis is not capable of causing infection. Kabatina, however, can infect mature foliage in the fall, winter or the following spring.
Life Cycle
The disease survives on infected plant debris as grayish lessions at the base of blighted portions of shoots. Fruiting bodies develop as small black "pimples," numerous in spring and diminish as the season progresses.The spores are moved by rain and irrigation and enter wounds or small opening caused by mechanical damage or insect feeding. The primary infection time is believed to be in fall although symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring. (Note: Symptoms of phomopsis tip blight occur in late spring as the new growth develops.)
Integrated Pest Mangement
1. Sanitation. Prune and destroy infected twigs and branches during dry weather. Avoid unnesessary wounding during wet weather which can provide entry points for the fungus. Damage is restricted to tips and doesn't cause death of the plant.
2. Good culture. Maintain adequate fertility for the plants but do not over fertilize. Avoid watering at night when the plants will remain wet all night long.
3. Fungicides. There are no fungicides currently registerd to control kabatina blight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mosses are small, primitive plants that have reduced leaves and a mass of fine, thread-like stems. A mild, wet winter combined with turfgrass which is thin and weak offers an opportunity for moss and/or algae growth.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
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