文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is a very popular herb among gardeners. A classic garnish on so many dishes, it’s especially useful to have on hand, and since cutting stalks only encourages new growth, there’s no reason not to give parsley some space in your garden. It’s a well-known rule that some plants grow better next to others, however, and with parsley there’s no exception. Keep reading to learn more about plants that grow well with parsley, as well as those that don’t.
Parsley Companion Planting
Companion planting is the age old trick of knowing which plants grow better next to other plants. Some plants encourage certain others to grow, while others inhibit them. Plants that are mutually beneficial are called companions. Parsley is a great companion crop, encouraging the growth of plenty of plants around it. Of all the vegetables, asparagus benefits the most from having parsley nearby. Other plants that grow well with parsley include:
Tomatoes
Chives
Carrots
Corn
Peppers
Onions
Peas
All of these are mutually beneficial with parsley and should grow well nearby. Lettuce and mint don’t make good neighbors with parsley and should be kept far away from it. Maybe the most surprising parsley companion is the rose bush. Planting parsley around the base of the plant will actually make your flowers smell sweeter.
Specific pairings aside, parsley is good for all the plants in your garden because of the insects it attracts. Swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, encouraging a new generation of butterflies to grow up in your garden. Parsley flowers attract hoverflies, the larvae of which eat aphids, thrips, and other harmful insects. Some harmful beetles are also repelled by the presence of parsley. Companion planting with parsley is that easy. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of growing other plants with this wonderful herb.
Parsley Companion Planting
Companion planting is the age old trick of knowing which plants grow better next to other plants. Some plants encourage certain others to grow, while others inhibit them. Plants that are mutually beneficial are called companions. Parsley is a great companion crop, encouraging the growth of plenty of plants around it. Of all the vegetables, asparagus benefits the most from having parsley nearby. Other plants that grow well with parsley include:
Tomatoes
Chives
Carrots
Corn
Peppers
Onions
Peas
All of these are mutually beneficial with parsley and should grow well nearby. Lettuce and mint don’t make good neighbors with parsley and should be kept far away from it. Maybe the most surprising parsley companion is the rose bush. Planting parsley around the base of the plant will actually make your flowers smell sweeter.
Specific pairings aside, parsley is good for all the plants in your garden because of the insects it attracts. Swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, encouraging a new generation of butterflies to grow up in your garden. Parsley flowers attract hoverflies, the larvae of which eat aphids, thrips, and other harmful insects. Some harmful beetles are also repelled by the presence of parsley. Companion planting with parsley is that easy. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of growing other plants with this wonderful herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If there’s one thing you can count on, it’s mint. The herb is about as vigorous as a plant can get, with a hardy nature and fast growth pattern. Experts estimate that there are over 600 different types of mint. Most of us are familiar with the two most popular types — spearmint and peppermint — but you’re missing out if you don’t try some of the more unusual mint varieties. The grapefruit mint plant is just one of many varieties of this pungent herb. Let’s find out more about growing grapefruit mint plant.
Grapefruit Mint Plant Info
Grapefruit mint (Mentha x piperita ‘Grapefruit’) is a perennial in USDA zones 6-11 and will grow in full sun or partial shade. Like most mints, it’s an easy plant to grow and perfect for novice gardeners who want to start out growing a small herb garden.
The plant features slightly furry, deep green leaves with an intoxicating citrus-mint scent, and can grow 12 to 14 inches tall and 18 inches wide. It tends to be rangy and leggy unless you pinch it back to force thicker growth. In the late summer or early fall, grapefruit mint shoots up a spike in the middle covered with beautiful lavender flowers. Bees, butterflies and birds love these blooms, so this plant will bring in wildlife unless you clip off the flowers and use them in bouquets.
Growing & Care of Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Like almost every other mint variety, grapefruit mint is almost too easy to grow and propagate. Although it’s not as invasive as some of the other varieties of the herb, unless you want an entire yard filled with mint in a short number of years, it is best to place growing grapefruit mint herbs in a planter to keep the roots away from your garden soil. Place the planters in full sun, although the plant will survive if your only planting spot has a bit of shade in the afternoons. Use fresh potting soil mixed with compost for good drainage and nutrients. Herbs are very hardy in general and mint is one of the most enduring plants. Its only disease problem is rust, which is easily avoided by preventing overhead watering. Other than that, keep the soil watered on a regular basis, especially during the hottest summer months. Mulch with wood chips or organic compost, and deadhead the plant to increase foliage growth.
Propagating Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Mint can be propagated from root division or stem cuttings. Take cuttings in early spring. Remove a 3-inch section of stem with several new bud nodes. Pull off the bottom leaves and stick the stem in a glass of water. Soon, the nodes will begin to root. When you have healthy roots, you can plant it just as you would any other herb. Division is best done at the same time. Simply dig up the plant and cut it into sections with vigorous root growth and some stems.
Using Grapefruit Mint Herbs
This unusually-flavored mint adds a tangy flavor to many different foods. Snip off the top leaves, beginning with the first leaves in the season. Harvest your grapefruit mint plant throughout the growing season and it will continue to produce tasty leaves. Chop the leaves and sprinkle them in fruit salad, crush them and add them to iced tea, or freeze them in ice cube trays (with water) and add them to water after a workout. The tangy flavor will also add a special touch to fish and chicken dishes, as well as fruity desserts. Try growing grapefruit mint in containers right near the back door for the freshest tasting summer garnish. This attractive addition to your herb garden can liven up your summer meals as well as your backyard scenery.
Grapefruit Mint Plant Info
Grapefruit mint (Mentha x piperita ‘Grapefruit’) is a perennial in USDA zones 6-11 and will grow in full sun or partial shade. Like most mints, it’s an easy plant to grow and perfect for novice gardeners who want to start out growing a small herb garden.
The plant features slightly furry, deep green leaves with an intoxicating citrus-mint scent, and can grow 12 to 14 inches tall and 18 inches wide. It tends to be rangy and leggy unless you pinch it back to force thicker growth. In the late summer or early fall, grapefruit mint shoots up a spike in the middle covered with beautiful lavender flowers. Bees, butterflies and birds love these blooms, so this plant will bring in wildlife unless you clip off the flowers and use them in bouquets.
Growing & Care of Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Like almost every other mint variety, grapefruit mint is almost too easy to grow and propagate. Although it’s not as invasive as some of the other varieties of the herb, unless you want an entire yard filled with mint in a short number of years, it is best to place growing grapefruit mint herbs in a planter to keep the roots away from your garden soil. Place the planters in full sun, although the plant will survive if your only planting spot has a bit of shade in the afternoons. Use fresh potting soil mixed with compost for good drainage and nutrients. Herbs are very hardy in general and mint is one of the most enduring plants. Its only disease problem is rust, which is easily avoided by preventing overhead watering. Other than that, keep the soil watered on a regular basis, especially during the hottest summer months. Mulch with wood chips or organic compost, and deadhead the plant to increase foliage growth.
Propagating Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Mint can be propagated from root division or stem cuttings. Take cuttings in early spring. Remove a 3-inch section of stem with several new bud nodes. Pull off the bottom leaves and stick the stem in a glass of water. Soon, the nodes will begin to root. When you have healthy roots, you can plant it just as you would any other herb. Division is best done at the same time. Simply dig up the plant and cut it into sections with vigorous root growth and some stems.
Using Grapefruit Mint Herbs
This unusually-flavored mint adds a tangy flavor to many different foods. Snip off the top leaves, beginning with the first leaves in the season. Harvest your grapefruit mint plant throughout the growing season and it will continue to produce tasty leaves. Chop the leaves and sprinkle them in fruit salad, crush them and add them to iced tea, or freeze them in ice cube trays (with water) and add them to water after a workout. The tangy flavor will also add a special touch to fish and chicken dishes, as well as fruity desserts. Try growing grapefruit mint in containers right near the back door for the freshest tasting summer garnish. This attractive addition to your herb garden can liven up your summer meals as well as your backyard scenery.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosmarinus officinalis is the herbal rosemary that most of us are familiar with, but if you add “prostratus” to the name you have creeping rosemary. It is in the same family, Lamiaceae, or mint, but has a broader growth habit and may be used as an elegant ground cover. The aromatic leaves and stems are still useful in culinary application and the lovely pale blue flowers are especially attractive to bees. Read on for more trailing rosemary plant info and tips on how to use this plant to enhance your garden.
Trailing Rosemary Plant Info
Trailing, or creeping, rosemary is a cultivar of the herbaceous shrubs of Mediterranean origin. The evergreen perennial is useful trained over fences, rockeries and raised beds. It is an attractive ground cover over time with its fine, leathery foliage and sweet flowers. Rosemary ground cover provides scented foliage which helps minimize weeds and is an excellent foil for other dry landscape plants.
Rosemary is an excellent xeriscape plant with high drought tolerance once established. It combines well with most other perennial herbs and drought tolerant plants. Prostrate rosemary plants can grow up to 3 feet in height and 4 to 8 feet in width with beautiful trailing stems that arch over and have a useful draping nature. Leaves are leathery, pale grayish green and have a pungent scent and flavor. Rosemary ground cover is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 8 to 10 but can be used in colder climes in containers and brought indoors for winter. It has numerous uses, from culinary to decorative, and rosemary was also thought to improve memory.
How to Grow Creeping Rosemary
The key to knowing how to grow creeping rosemary is to ensure superior drainage, as they are very susceptible to root rot in soggy conditions. Plants can thrive in compacted soil once established but young plants must be in loose soil to encourage root growth. In compacted soils, aerate around the root zone to encourage porosity and allow roots oxygen. Prostrate rosemary plants are native to dry areas of the Mediterranean. As such, it requires well-drained soil and even thrives in areas of low fertility. Plant in light, porous soil, adding some sand or grit as needed to increase percolation. The shrub does well in containers but be careful not to overwater. Allow soil to dry out completely before adding moisture.
Choose a location with 6 to 8 hours of bright sunlight. Rosemary can be challenging to grow in the home interior. Where possible, place container plants in a sunny location where humidity is not high. In shoulder zones, you can plant the herb in a sheltered location and mulch heavily around it, covering the plant at night during cold snaps and it should survive light freezes. If some stems succumb to cold weather, trim them off and allow new growth to come from the base. You can prune the plant lightly to encourage branching or even train it over a structure for an appealing effect. Rosemary ground cover can also be left to scramble over rocks and other areas as an effective herb barrier and attractive living mulch.
Trailing Rosemary Plant Info
Trailing, or creeping, rosemary is a cultivar of the herbaceous shrubs of Mediterranean origin. The evergreen perennial is useful trained over fences, rockeries and raised beds. It is an attractive ground cover over time with its fine, leathery foliage and sweet flowers. Rosemary ground cover provides scented foliage which helps minimize weeds and is an excellent foil for other dry landscape plants.
Rosemary is an excellent xeriscape plant with high drought tolerance once established. It combines well with most other perennial herbs and drought tolerant plants. Prostrate rosemary plants can grow up to 3 feet in height and 4 to 8 feet in width with beautiful trailing stems that arch over and have a useful draping nature. Leaves are leathery, pale grayish green and have a pungent scent and flavor. Rosemary ground cover is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 8 to 10 but can be used in colder climes in containers and brought indoors for winter. It has numerous uses, from culinary to decorative, and rosemary was also thought to improve memory.
How to Grow Creeping Rosemary
The key to knowing how to grow creeping rosemary is to ensure superior drainage, as they are very susceptible to root rot in soggy conditions. Plants can thrive in compacted soil once established but young plants must be in loose soil to encourage root growth. In compacted soils, aerate around the root zone to encourage porosity and allow roots oxygen. Prostrate rosemary plants are native to dry areas of the Mediterranean. As such, it requires well-drained soil and even thrives in areas of low fertility. Plant in light, porous soil, adding some sand or grit as needed to increase percolation. The shrub does well in containers but be careful not to overwater. Allow soil to dry out completely before adding moisture.
Choose a location with 6 to 8 hours of bright sunlight. Rosemary can be challenging to grow in the home interior. Where possible, place container plants in a sunny location where humidity is not high. In shoulder zones, you can plant the herb in a sheltered location and mulch heavily around it, covering the plant at night during cold snaps and it should survive light freezes. If some stems succumb to cold weather, trim them off and allow new growth to come from the base. You can prune the plant lightly to encourage branching or even train it over a structure for an appealing effect. Rosemary ground cover can also be left to scramble over rocks and other areas as an effective herb barrier and attractive living mulch.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年08月24日
Did some major surgery, removed 22 leaves for props. I have been unhappy with how the flat leaves (a remnant of having lived in a dark flowershop) looked and with some of the new upright growth it looked really bad. Leaves room for some of the new puppies that grow on the stem as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Companion planting is a traditional practice where each plant serves a purpose in the garden and form relationships that assist each other. Ginger companion planting is not a common practice but even this spicy rooted plant can aid in the growth of other plants and be part of a culinary theme. “What can I plant with ginger,” you may ask. Pretty much anything with the same growth requirements. Ginger has no negative effects on any other plant, so the combination can be for recipe needs or simply as an accent in an otherwise boring green color scheme.
What Can I Plant with Ginger?
Ginger roots, or rhizomes, are the source of the pungent, spicy flavoring used dried or fresh in many world cuisines. It has numerous health benefits and thrives in humid, warm regions. Ginger is harvested by digging up the whole plant, so be sure to start numerous rhizomes to ensure a continuous supply of this delicious root.
When you are installing your rhizomes, consider some good companions for ginger that will make a convenient culinary garden or simply provide weed cover, insect repellence and natural mulch. A better question to ask is what can’t you plant with ginger. The list will be shorter. Ginger thrives in deeply rich, loamy soil. The plant needs several hours of daylight but prefers morning light to scorching afternoon sun. It can also perform well in dappled light and makes an ideal companion plant under fruit and nut trees. Trees in the legume family are especially useful, as they fix nitrogen in soil for better overall plant growth. Annual legumes can be used similarly such as red clover, peas, or beans. Make sure any ginger plant companions share the same growing needs in order to ensure their success.
Other Plants that Thrive with Ginger
Your selection of companions for ginger may also take into consideration the types of cooking you prefer. Ginger is a common flavoring in many Asian, Indian and other international dishes. If you want a one-stop produce area, use plants that are often used in these cuisines as companions to the ginger plot. Perfect choices include:
Kaffir lime
Chili peppers
Cilantro
Lemongrass
For plants like cilantro and chilies, make sure they are at the edge of the planting zone or where the most light penetrates. Keeping plants that are commonly used in your favorite dishes allows you to easily harvest the ingredients for dinner without having to traipse around your landscape looking for the necessary items.
Ginger companion planting may also include seasonings that are often combined with ginger cooking. These might be galangal, turmeric, and cardamom. These plants are related to ginger and share similar growth requirements. Other plants to use are semi tropical to tropical flowering plants that will create a crazy quilt of color and enhance the lovely ginger blooms. Try calla and canna. Ginger originated in Southern Asian tropical rainforests and its native plant companions include hibiscus, palms, teak, and orchids. If you are in a moist, warm region, you can try any of these natural plant companions. The indigenous plants of ginger’s native region are naturals to plant in and around your ginger plot.
What Can I Plant with Ginger?
Ginger roots, or rhizomes, are the source of the pungent, spicy flavoring used dried or fresh in many world cuisines. It has numerous health benefits and thrives in humid, warm regions. Ginger is harvested by digging up the whole plant, so be sure to start numerous rhizomes to ensure a continuous supply of this delicious root.
When you are installing your rhizomes, consider some good companions for ginger that will make a convenient culinary garden or simply provide weed cover, insect repellence and natural mulch. A better question to ask is what can’t you plant with ginger. The list will be shorter. Ginger thrives in deeply rich, loamy soil. The plant needs several hours of daylight but prefers morning light to scorching afternoon sun. It can also perform well in dappled light and makes an ideal companion plant under fruit and nut trees. Trees in the legume family are especially useful, as they fix nitrogen in soil for better overall plant growth. Annual legumes can be used similarly such as red clover, peas, or beans. Make sure any ginger plant companions share the same growing needs in order to ensure their success.
Other Plants that Thrive with Ginger
Your selection of companions for ginger may also take into consideration the types of cooking you prefer. Ginger is a common flavoring in many Asian, Indian and other international dishes. If you want a one-stop produce area, use plants that are often used in these cuisines as companions to the ginger plot. Perfect choices include:
Kaffir lime
Chili peppers
Cilantro
Lemongrass
For plants like cilantro and chilies, make sure they are at the edge of the planting zone or where the most light penetrates. Keeping plants that are commonly used in your favorite dishes allows you to easily harvest the ingredients for dinner without having to traipse around your landscape looking for the necessary items.
Ginger companion planting may also include seasonings that are often combined with ginger cooking. These might be galangal, turmeric, and cardamom. These plants are related to ginger and share similar growth requirements. Other plants to use are semi tropical to tropical flowering plants that will create a crazy quilt of color and enhance the lovely ginger blooms. Try calla and canna. Ginger originated in Southern Asian tropical rainforests and its native plant companions include hibiscus, palms, teak, and orchids. If you are in a moist, warm region, you can try any of these natural plant companions. The indigenous plants of ginger’s native region are naturals to plant in and around your ginger plot.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
You may be familiar with cilantro as a pungent herb that flavors salsa or pico de gallo. That same fragrance, used throughout the garden, can attract beneficial insects and encourage growth of some crops, such as spinach.
The Companion Plant Cilantro
Cilantro, as a companion plant in the garden, is an excellent means of attracting beneficial insects. Beneficial insects in the garden use various means of destroying the bad bugs that exist to maim and mutilate your crops. Often, tiny beneficials lay eggs on your garden plants, which feed on pests after hatching. Plant a few seeds of cilantro for companion planting with various other crops.
Tiny flowers of cilantro as a companion plant accommodate beneficial bugs and encourage them to maintain residence in your gardens. As a companion plant, cilantro may be planted throughout the garden in well-placed locations, tucked in near tomato and spinach plants or planted in rows bordering fruits and vegetables. Choose varieties of cilantro which bolt easily, producing flowers quickly. Cilantro is a short-lived flowering herb which may be re-seeded every few weeks to maintain its potent effect. Cilantro for companion planting will produce flowers by late spring or early summer, depending on location and when it is planted. Other small flowered plants such as sweet alyssum and creeping thyme may be planted for pest control earlier in the season.
Companion Planting with Cilantro
Late blooming plants to accompany cilantro as a companion plant include fern leaf lavender and dill. Cilantro may be reseeded in late summer for autumn fragrance and pest control. Do not plant fennel in the area where you are using cilantro as a companion. Basil, mint, yarrow and tansy are good choices for companion planting with cilantro. This cool season herb, sometimes called Mexican parsley, may experience warm season growth when planted under and shaded by tomatoes. Include jalapeno peppers and onion nearby by for an everything you need for salsa garden. Leaves of cilantro that become infested with bugs should be discarded.
Parasitoid wasps and hover flies are just two of the beneficial insects attracted to the garden with cilantro for companion planting. Use of cilantro as a companion in the garden, in combination with other small flowering pungent herbs, may provide a pest-free garden or at least keep bad bugs to an acceptable minimum that does not allow for damage to your crops.
The Companion Plant Cilantro
Cilantro, as a companion plant in the garden, is an excellent means of attracting beneficial insects. Beneficial insects in the garden use various means of destroying the bad bugs that exist to maim and mutilate your crops. Often, tiny beneficials lay eggs on your garden plants, which feed on pests after hatching. Plant a few seeds of cilantro for companion planting with various other crops.
Tiny flowers of cilantro as a companion plant accommodate beneficial bugs and encourage them to maintain residence in your gardens. As a companion plant, cilantro may be planted throughout the garden in well-placed locations, tucked in near tomato and spinach plants or planted in rows bordering fruits and vegetables. Choose varieties of cilantro which bolt easily, producing flowers quickly. Cilantro is a short-lived flowering herb which may be re-seeded every few weeks to maintain its potent effect. Cilantro for companion planting will produce flowers by late spring or early summer, depending on location and when it is planted. Other small flowered plants such as sweet alyssum and creeping thyme may be planted for pest control earlier in the season.
Companion Planting with Cilantro
Late blooming plants to accompany cilantro as a companion plant include fern leaf lavender and dill. Cilantro may be reseeded in late summer for autumn fragrance and pest control. Do not plant fennel in the area where you are using cilantro as a companion. Basil, mint, yarrow and tansy are good choices for companion planting with cilantro. This cool season herb, sometimes called Mexican parsley, may experience warm season growth when planted under and shaded by tomatoes. Include jalapeno peppers and onion nearby by for an everything you need for salsa garden. Leaves of cilantro that become infested with bugs should be discarded.
Parasitoid wasps and hover flies are just two of the beneficial insects attracted to the garden with cilantro for companion planting. Use of cilantro as a companion in the garden, in combination with other small flowering pungent herbs, may provide a pest-free garden or at least keep bad bugs to an acceptable minimum that does not allow for damage to your crops.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Plant enthusiasts are often looking for a bit of tropical flare to add to the landscape or home interior. Spindle palms are about as tropical looking as you can have, along with ease of care and paced growth that makes them a trouble free addition. This endangered plant is commonly cultivated and performs well in a range of areas provided enough light and space are available and freezing temperatures are not an issue. Learn how to care for a spindle palm plant and invite exotic specimen to your home.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The three common holiday cacti, named for time of year the blooms appear, include Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus and Easter cactus. All three are easy to grow and have similar growth habits and care requirements. Although these familiar cacti are traditionally available in shades of red, today’s holiday cactus varieties come in magenta, pink and scarlet, as well as yellow, white, orange, purple, salmon and apricot. Although all three are native to Brazil, Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus are tropical rain forest plants, while Easter cactus is native to Brazil’s natural forests.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum are epiphytic cacti as their name suggests. Some call them orchid cactus due to their large bright blooms and growth habit. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants, not in a parasitic fashion but as hosts. They are not cold hardy and generally can be found only as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. Caring for Epiphyllums is a water balancing act. They can’t be allowed to dry out, yet overwatering is a death sentence to these cacti. Here are a few tips on how to grow Epiphyllum and achieve healthy plants that will astound with their blooms and fruit.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulent plants are easy to love. Their ease of care, sunny dispositions and moderate growth habits make them perfect for warm seasons outdoors or well lit interiors. The Echeveria succulent plant is just such a specimen, thriving on brief periods of neglect and low water and nutrients. Echeveria care is practically foolproof and grows well in either containers or toasty garden beds. The many varieties and colors of Echeveria plants provide wonderful tones and texture for mixed beds and pots.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
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