文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees need special pruning that begins while the tree is young. Proper pruning helps establish a graceful growth pattern and prevents damage as the tree grows. Let’s find out how to prune a willow tree.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
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DaviddelC
2017年09月02日
New growth! The root hormone is working.
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DaviddelC：@meriunkat Just dip the root in the hormone and tap it on the side to take off any excess. Then pot it in most soil.
meriunkat：@DaviddelC I have the hormone powder, I was only wondering how did you apply it to the plant? since others may use it a bit differently.
DaviddelC：@meriunkat I used this. https://www.miraclegro.com/en-us/products/plant-food-care/miracle-gro-fastroot1-dry-powder-rooting-hormone
meriunkat：how did you apply it on the plant?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Smoke tree is an ornamental shrub to small tree that is grown for the bright purple or yellow leaves and the spring flowers that mature and “puff” out as if they were clouds of smoke. Smoke trees tend to have a rangy, splayed growth habit. Pruning smoke trees annually will help make the plant more compact and strengthen the limbs.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Common in older landscapes because of their quick growth, even the slightest breeze can make the silver undersides of silver maple trees look like the whole tree is shimmering. Because of its wide use as a fast-growing tree, most of us have a silver maple or a few on our urban blocks. In addition to their use as fast-growing shade trees, silver maples were also widely planted in reforestation projects. Continue reading to learn more silver maple tree information.
Silver Maple Tree Information
Silver maples (Acer saccharinum) prefer to grow in moist, slightly acidic soil. They are moderately drought tolerant, but are more recognized for their ability to survive in standing water for long periods of time. Because of this water tolerance, silver maples were often planted along river banks or edges of other waterways for erosion control. They can tolerate high water levels in spring and receding water levels in midsummer.
In natural areas, their early spring blooms are important to bees and other pollinators. Their prolific seeds are eaten by grosbeaks, finches, wild turkeys, ducks, squirrels and chipmunks. Its leaves provide food for deer, rabbits, cecropia moth caterpillars and white tussock moth caterpillars.
Growing silver maple trees are prone to forming deep holes or cavities that provide homes for raccoons, opossums, squirrels, bats, owls and other birds. Near waterways, beavers often eat silver maple bark and use their limbs for building beaver dams and lodges.
How to Grow Silver Maple Trees
Hardy in zones 3-9, silver maple tree growth is about 2 feet or more per year. Their vase-shaped growth habit can top out at anywhere from 50 to 80 feet tall depending on location and can be 35 to 50 feet wide. While they were once widely used as quick growing street trees or shade trees for landscapes, silver maples are not so popular in recent years because their brittle limbs are prone to breakage from strong winds or heavy snow or ice. Silver maple’s large vigorous roots can also damage sidewalks and driveways, as well as sewer and drain pipes. The soft wood that is prone to forming holes or cavities can also be prone to fungus or grubs.
Another drawback to silver maples is that their prolific, winged seed pairs are highly viable and seedlings will quickly sprout up in any open soil without any special requirements, like stratification. This can make them a pest to agriculture fields and quite annoying to home gardeners. On the positive side, this makes silver maples very easy to propagate by seed. In recent years, red maples and silver maples have been bred together to create the hybrid Acer freemanii. These hybrids are fast growing like silver maples but more durable against strong winds and heavy snow or ice. They also have prettier fall colors, usually in reds and oranges, unlike the yellow fall color of silver maples.
If planting a silver maple tree is a project you’d like to undertake but without the downsides, then opt for one of these hybrid types instead. Varieties in the Acer freemanii include:
Autumn Blaze
Marmo
Armstrong
Celebration
Matador
Morgan
Scarlet Sentinel
Firefall
Silver Maple Tree Information
Silver maples (Acer saccharinum) prefer to grow in moist, slightly acidic soil. They are moderately drought tolerant, but are more recognized for their ability to survive in standing water for long periods of time. Because of this water tolerance, silver maples were often planted along river banks or edges of other waterways for erosion control. They can tolerate high water levels in spring and receding water levels in midsummer.
In natural areas, their early spring blooms are important to bees and other pollinators. Their prolific seeds are eaten by grosbeaks, finches, wild turkeys, ducks, squirrels and chipmunks. Its leaves provide food for deer, rabbits, cecropia moth caterpillars and white tussock moth caterpillars.
Growing silver maple trees are prone to forming deep holes or cavities that provide homes for raccoons, opossums, squirrels, bats, owls and other birds. Near waterways, beavers often eat silver maple bark and use their limbs for building beaver dams and lodges.
How to Grow Silver Maple Trees
Hardy in zones 3-9, silver maple tree growth is about 2 feet or more per year. Their vase-shaped growth habit can top out at anywhere from 50 to 80 feet tall depending on location and can be 35 to 50 feet wide. While they were once widely used as quick growing street trees or shade trees for landscapes, silver maples are not so popular in recent years because their brittle limbs are prone to breakage from strong winds or heavy snow or ice. Silver maple’s large vigorous roots can also damage sidewalks and driveways, as well as sewer and drain pipes. The soft wood that is prone to forming holes or cavities can also be prone to fungus or grubs.
Another drawback to silver maples is that their prolific, winged seed pairs are highly viable and seedlings will quickly sprout up in any open soil without any special requirements, like stratification. This can make them a pest to agriculture fields and quite annoying to home gardeners. On the positive side, this makes silver maples very easy to propagate by seed. In recent years, red maples and silver maples have been bred together to create the hybrid Acer freemanii. These hybrids are fast growing like silver maples but more durable against strong winds and heavy snow or ice. They also have prettier fall colors, usually in reds and oranges, unlike the yellow fall color of silver maples.
If planting a silver maple tree is a project you’d like to undertake but without the downsides, then opt for one of these hybrid types instead. Varieties in the Acer freemanii include:
Autumn Blaze
Marmo
Armstrong
Celebration
Matador
Morgan
Scarlet Sentinel
Firefall
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Homeowners love the claret ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. oxycarpa) for its fast growth and its rounded crown of dark, lacy leaves. Before you start growing claret ash trees, be sure your backyard is big enough since these trees can grow 80 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. Read on for more claret ash tree information.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The same traits that make English ivy (Hedera helix) a wonderful ground cover can also make it a pain to remove from your yard. Ivy’s resilience and lush growth make killing English ivy or removing ivy from trees a difficult task, but not an impossible one. If you are wondering how to kill an ivy plant, you will find some help below.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Red clover is a common soil amendment and green manure. The plant fixes nitrogen in soil, enhancing fertility for better growth in other plants. If you are thinking about using red clover, why not try ornamental clover plants. Red feather foxtail clover has spectacular tufted flowers that are attractive and useful. Red feather clover not only adds nitrogen to soil but has other benefits after providing a colorful floral display.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas have become extremely popular in the last few years, with good reason. Gardeners love hostas for their colorful foliage, versatility, toughness, easy growth habits and ability to grow and thrive without bright sunlight.
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Once considered an exotic plant in the garden, many gardeners have discovered that bamboo is a versatile and robust addition to the home garden. Bamboo growth is fast and thick, and can quickly add a lovely and lush feature to the garden in no time. Caring for bamboo plants is easy and simple. Here are a few tips on bamboo plant care to help you.
Choosing a Location for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo (Bambusa spp.) is a versatile plant and most species can survive in many conditions. But bamboo growing in full sun will grow the fastest. Bamboo plants also like to have fertile, slightly acidic, well drained but moist soil. Remember, these are simply the best conditions under which to get the best bamboo growth. As long as you provide a few of these conditions, most bamboos will still be happy.
Planting Bamboo Plants
Once you have chosen a place to start your bamboo growing, you can plant your bamboo. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the rootball on your bamboo. Set the bamboo in the hole and spread the roots out some in the hole. Gently backfill the hole, tamping down the soil some as you go. Water the hole thoroughly to help fill in any air pockets. Planting the bamboo this way allows the bamboo to establish faster, as the soil around it will be loose and the roots and rhizomes will be able to grow in it more quickly. Water weekly until the bamboo plants are established. If possible, provide some shade to the newly planted bamboo for the first two weeks after planting.
Caring for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo plant care after the plants are established is pretty straightforward. Bamboo does best if it gets at least 1 inch of water a week, either from rainfall or manual watering. Water bamboo deeply to encourage deep roots, which will help protect your bamboo from drought. If possible, do not rake up bamboo leaves from the bamboo roots. The leaves will help keep the roots protected and moist. They will also return essential nutrients to the soil as they decompose, which will encourage bamboo growth. Adding a layer of mulch to bamboo roots will also keep your bamboo growing strong. Proper bamboo plant care recommends that a layer of compost or balanced fertilizer be added in the spring.
Controlling Bamboo Growth
Sometimes bamboo growing in your yard will grow too much. It is important to find out how aggressive your variety of bamboo plants are. If you have a vigorous growing bamboo, such as the running type, you will want to consider planting it in a barrier or installing a barrier if the clump is already established. The barrier should go down at least 2 to 3 inches underground, if not more, and be 2 to 3 inches above ground. The barrier should surround the bamboo completely. Once the barrier is installed, check the top of the barrier at least once a year. Cut back any bamboo growing over the top of the barrier to prevent it from escaping. Caring for bamboo plants is almost care free, especially if growing the clumping variety vs. the running, more invasive type. Also, check with your local extension office beforehand to see if planting the running bamboo varieties is allowed, as in some areas it may be banned, though the clumping bamboo is typically fine. Enjoy the tropical and Asian flair that having bamboo growing in your garden is sure to add.
Choosing a Location for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo (Bambusa spp.) is a versatile plant and most species can survive in many conditions. But bamboo growing in full sun will grow the fastest. Bamboo plants also like to have fertile, slightly acidic, well drained but moist soil. Remember, these are simply the best conditions under which to get the best bamboo growth. As long as you provide a few of these conditions, most bamboos will still be happy.
Planting Bamboo Plants
Once you have chosen a place to start your bamboo growing, you can plant your bamboo. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the rootball on your bamboo. Set the bamboo in the hole and spread the roots out some in the hole. Gently backfill the hole, tamping down the soil some as you go. Water the hole thoroughly to help fill in any air pockets. Planting the bamboo this way allows the bamboo to establish faster, as the soil around it will be loose and the roots and rhizomes will be able to grow in it more quickly. Water weekly until the bamboo plants are established. If possible, provide some shade to the newly planted bamboo for the first two weeks after planting.
Caring for Bamboo Plants
Bamboo plant care after the plants are established is pretty straightforward. Bamboo does best if it gets at least 1 inch of water a week, either from rainfall or manual watering. Water bamboo deeply to encourage deep roots, which will help protect your bamboo from drought. If possible, do not rake up bamboo leaves from the bamboo roots. The leaves will help keep the roots protected and moist. They will also return essential nutrients to the soil as they decompose, which will encourage bamboo growth. Adding a layer of mulch to bamboo roots will also keep your bamboo growing strong. Proper bamboo plant care recommends that a layer of compost or balanced fertilizer be added in the spring.
Controlling Bamboo Growth
Sometimes bamboo growing in your yard will grow too much. It is important to find out how aggressive your variety of bamboo plants are. If you have a vigorous growing bamboo, such as the running type, you will want to consider planting it in a barrier or installing a barrier if the clump is already established. The barrier should go down at least 2 to 3 inches underground, if not more, and be 2 to 3 inches above ground. The barrier should surround the bamboo completely. Once the barrier is installed, check the top of the barrier at least once a year. Cut back any bamboo growing over the top of the barrier to prevent it from escaping. Caring for bamboo plants is almost care free, especially if growing the clumping variety vs. the running, more invasive type. Also, check with your local extension office beforehand to see if planting the running bamboo varieties is allowed, as in some areas it may be banned, though the clumping bamboo is typically fine. Enjoy the tropical and Asian flair that having bamboo growing in your garden is sure to add.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you’re looking for an easy succulent to grow indoors, opt for the string of beads (Senecio rowleyanus) plant. In addition to its carefree growth habit, this interesting houseplant can provide a unique focal point in the home. Sprawling over the edges of containers or hanging baskets, the string of beads plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage. Learn more about growing string of beads houseplant so you can also enjoy its unique characteristics and ease of care.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
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