成长记
stureburk
2017年08月14日
Growth spurt! The leaf has really on its last legs now, so hopefully it has enough roots to go at it alone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Without seeing the foliage or the plant's growth pattern, you can often identify the type of a rose (Rosa spp.) type, if not its cultivar, by examining and smelling the cut flower. Beginning with about 150 species of the genus, their descendants now number more than 14,000 varieties. Crossbreeding has produced almost infinite combinations of flower characteristics. Therefore, any gardener should be able to select a rose to grow, regardless of his climate or favorite rose attributes.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Nothing beats the ease of bromeliad guzmania houseplant care. Growing guzmania bromeliads is simple and their unique growth habit and flower bracts will add interest to the home year round. Let’s learn more about the care of guzmanias.
Bromeliad Guzmania Plant
Guzmania plants are perennial plants in the bromeliad family. There are over 120 different guzmania plants and all are native to South America. These tropical beauties are known as epiphytic plants and attach to trees with roots that never reach the soil.
Striking bracts grow from the center of the plant and can be red, yellow, orange or deep purple depending on the species. Leaves are thin and dark green. They cause no injury to their host plant but just use them for support. The leaves collect rainwater and the plant receives nourishment in its natural environment from decomposing leaves and droppings from monkeys and birds.
Growing Guzmania Bromeliads
The guzmania plant can also be grown in a container and is known as a prized houseplant in areas outside of its native region. To pot a guzmania, put some small decorative stones or pieces of pottery in the bottom of a ceramic or terra cotta pot. The pot should be heavy, as the guzmania tends to be top heavy. Place potting medium that is specifically designed for orchids on top of stones and plant your guzmania in the pot.
Care of Guzmanias
Guzmania houseplant care is easy, which adds to this plant’s popularity. Guzmanias require low light and should be kept out of direct sunlight. Place distilled or filtered water in the central cup of the plant and replace frequently to keep it from rotting. Keep the potting mix moist during the spring and the summer months.
Guzmanias thrive in temperatures of at least 55 F. (13 C.) or higher. Because these are tropical plants, they benefit from high humidity. A light mist daily will keep your guzmania looking its best. Add a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer and a slow release fertilizer at the end of the summer.
Bromeliad Guzmania Plant
Guzmania plants are perennial plants in the bromeliad family. There are over 120 different guzmania plants and all are native to South America. These tropical beauties are known as epiphytic plants and attach to trees with roots that never reach the soil.
Striking bracts grow from the center of the plant and can be red, yellow, orange or deep purple depending on the species. Leaves are thin and dark green. They cause no injury to their host plant but just use them for support. The leaves collect rainwater and the plant receives nourishment in its natural environment from decomposing leaves and droppings from monkeys and birds.
Growing Guzmania Bromeliads
The guzmania plant can also be grown in a container and is known as a prized houseplant in areas outside of its native region. To pot a guzmania, put some small decorative stones or pieces of pottery in the bottom of a ceramic or terra cotta pot. The pot should be heavy, as the guzmania tends to be top heavy. Place potting medium that is specifically designed for orchids on top of stones and plant your guzmania in the pot.
Care of Guzmanias
Guzmania houseplant care is easy, which adds to this plant’s popularity. Guzmanias require low light and should be kept out of direct sunlight. Place distilled or filtered water in the central cup of the plant and replace frequently to keep it from rotting. Keep the potting mix moist during the spring and the summer months.
Guzmanias thrive in temperatures of at least 55 F. (13 C.) or higher. Because these are tropical plants, they benefit from high humidity. A light mist daily will keep your guzmania looking its best. Add a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer and a slow release fertilizer at the end of the summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fairly common houseplants with a tropical feel and an unusual, fun growth form. There are over 50 varieties of Hechtia bromeliads, most of which are native to Mexico. What is Hechtia? Hechtia is a terrestrial plant with characteristic rosette form of most bromeliads. One of the more interesting pieces of Hechtia plant info is that is has traits similar to succulents but is not a true succulent. However, Hechtia are drought tolerant and have amazing cold resistance for warm region plants.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
The lush growth of your flower and vegetable gardens attract wildlife to your yard. Your carefully cultivated plants are an exotic delicatessen, free for animals' eating enjoyment. Although you can take precautions to discourage the animals from eating your flowers and vegetables, you may still end up sharing some of your harvest when food is scarce for the wildlife.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月09日
thankfully my Jade survived the last month with nothing but a monster growth spurt, which led to a mass trimming
2
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants comes in various shapes and sizes. This means that removing a cactus involves different steps depending on the overall size and growth of the cactus in question. While some cacti are too large to cut down with gardening tools, others can be removed by simply using a spade. When you are removing a cactus plant from your garden, be careful because the spines and needles can cause severe pain if lodged in the skin. Wear thick gloves as well as long clothing to prevent accidental contact with the spines.
Step 1
Cut the cactus plant into small pieces or pads using a chainsaw. Cut horizontally, so the pieces slide off the cactus plant and land beside the plant.
Step 2
Haul away the cactus pieces or cover them with a foot or more of fresh horse manure. The fertilizer will cause the cactus pads to rot away within six months.
Step 3
Return to the roots and remove them using a spade. Dig deep down before applying weight to the spade to lift up the roots, as the roots can be growing deep in the soil. If the roots break in the process, ensure that you go back with a hand shovel to remove the remaining roots, as cactus roots will continue to grow.
Step 4
Stir up the soil where the cactus was located, using a hand rake. Scatter some native grass seed into the soil and water it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit, or pitaya, grows on a cactus plant. Unlike desert cacti, the pitaya cactus requires regular watering for healthiest growth and best fruit production. Dragon fruit is native to tropical and subtropical areas where high rainfall and moist soil is common. Regular watering encourages the cactus to produce flavorful, well-formed fruits. The cactus requires 25 to 50 inches of rainfall or supplemental irrigation a year.
Step 1
Irrigate dragon fruit plants one to two times weekly. Water at the base of the plants so the moisture soaks deeply into the soil.
Step 2
Provide approximately 1 inch of water at each irrigation. An inch of water typically moistens the top 6 inches of soil. Dragon fruit plants cannot tolerate overly wet soil.
Step 3
Stop watering in early spring before the cacti flower. The plants require dry soil to flower successfully. Resume watering once the flowers open to ensure healthy fruit set.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata), a crested form of mottled spurge (Euphorbia lactea), offers convoluted, fan-shaped green growth marked with silver. Recently, plant sellers have begun to graft coral cactus fans in a variety of colors onto the stems of other succulents or cacti. The resulting plants are called variegated coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata variegata). All these euphorbias are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. They also are poisonous and their white sap can inflame the eyes, mucous membranes and skin.
Outdoor Care
If you wish to try the original ungrafted green form of coral cactus outdoors, plant it in a sunny or partly sunny position in well-drained soil and mulch it with gravel. Unless your climate is very dry, it's a good idea to place cacti in a raised bed ringed by rocks and filled with a combination of 1 part garden soil and 1 part sand or decomposed granite.
During spring through autumn, water an outdoor coral cactus about once a week when there is no rain. Don't water it at all during the winter. Since cacti in the ground don't need much fertilizer, feed the plant only once in midsummer.
For a liquid chemical fertilizer such as 10-10-5, combine 1 tablespoon of the solution with 1 gallon of water, or use 4 tablespoons of solution per gallon of water for a liquid organic type such as 3-3-3. Mix the fertilizer in a watering can and pour it into the soil around the cactus.
Indoor Potting
The grafted types of coral cactus often are planted in a pot which has been mulched with glued-down gravel. Although the gravel prevents soil from splashing onto the plant, it also may prevent testing the moisture of the soil. If such is the case, try to remove the gravel without harming the cactus.
Use barbecue tongs and/or a strap made from folded newspaper to lift the plant, to protect your hands from its sap and spines. Replant it in a pot with drainage holes, either in cactus potting soil or in a mix of 1 part general-purpose potting soil and 1 part sand. You can mulch the soil with fine gravel again, but make that loose gravel, so you can feel beneath it.
Indoor Care
Place a coral cactus on a warm windowsill where temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Although the original green, non-grafted type can take full sun, grafted cultivars should receive sunlight only for several hours in the morning or afternoon, but not during the brightest midday hours.
During spring through summer, water the plant once a week or once every two weeks, whenever its soil feels dry 1 inch down. Reduce that watering to once a month during autumn and winter, as cacti can rot during those seasons if kept too wet, and resume the weekly or biweekly watering in early spring.
Fertilize your indoor cactus once every two weeks during spring and summer with a liquid 10-10-10 plant food at one quarter strength. That would be about 3 to 4 drops of the plant food in 1 quart of water. Refrain from feeding the plant during autumn and winter.
Cactus Pests
If pests such as furry white mealy-bugs or bumpy brown scale appear on your cactus, clean them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Don't use insecticidal soap, which can be damaging to euphorbias.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent plants tend to have tough leaves and stems rarely troubled by pests. Insects, however, sometimes infest new growth and can cause long-term disfigurement. Small black insects on succulent plants could be aphids or ants associated with them, or hempitera bugs. Indoor potted succulents can also host sciarid flies in their soil.
Aphids
Black aphids or blackfly infest the young leaves and flower shoots of succulents. They are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/16 inch long and form colonies. Treat aphids with a spray based on insecticidal soap. Clemson University horticulture specialist Janet McLeod Scott advises testing any chemical on a small section of your plant and leaving it for 48 hours to make sure it is not toxic.
Ants
Ants do not damage succulents but may visit them to feed on the nectar in flowers. Ants also feed on a sweet substance produced by aphids and in return, tend aphid colonies and protect them from predators. Remove ants from succulents by treating the aphids that attract them.
Sciarid Flies
Sciarid flies or soil midges are tiny flying insects that live in damp soil and leaf litter. They are not common around succulents because they favor damp soil but can be a nuisance around indoor succulents. Sciarid fly larvae occasionally feed on the roots and lower stems of succulent plants. Treat sciarid flies by allowing the soil around your succulents to dry out and by avoiding peat-based composts.
Hemiptera Bugs
Hemiptera bugs are small, mobile insects with sucking mouthparts. Several species feed on succulents such as yuccas and cacti. Among them, Hesperolabops gelastop has a reddish colored head and blackish body. It lives in small groups on the upper surfaces of succulent leaves and causes pale blotches up to 1/2 inch across. Some yucca plants have Halticotoma bugs infestations, according to Texas A&M University professor Bastiaan M. Drees. They are 1/4 inch long with dark-gray bodies. Halticotoma bugs live in groups and scatter quickly when disturbed. Treat hemiptera bugs with a systemic insecticide containing dinotefuran or imidacloprid, applied in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
By Jackie Rhoades You’re strolling through your garden enjoying the lush growth the spring rains have produced. You stop to admire one particular specimen and you notice black spots on plant leaves. Closer inspection shows black spots on leaves throughout a whole section of your garden. This can’t be! You don’t have any roses. Unfortunately, you don’t need them. Your garden has been infected with black spot fungus.
What is Black Spot Fungus?
Don’t let the name fool you. Diplocarpon rosae, or black spot fungus, isn’t just a disease of roses. It can attack any plant with fleshy leaves and stems if the conditions are right. You’ve already taken the first step in treating black leaf spot. You’ve been inspecting your garden on a regular basis and you’ve caught it early. Black spot fungus begins to develop in the spring when temperatures reach into the sixties and the garden has been continuously wet for six to nine hours. By the time temperatures reach into the seventies, the disease is running rampant and won’t slow down until the daytime temperatures rise above 85 F. (29 C.). It starts with tiny black spots on leaves, no bigger than a pinhead. As the fungus develops, those black spots on leaves are ringed with yellow. Soon the entire leaf turns yellow and falls.
Treating Black Leaf Spot Fungus
Getting rid of black leaf spot must be a two-pronged attack. Because its spores travel on the wind and plash from leaf to leaf during watering, treating black leaf spot should be first on your agenda. There are several good fungicides on the market, several of which claim to be organic. They come in handy bottle sprayers, but if your garden is large, you might want to buy it as a concentrate to mix in your tank sprayer. Neem oil is another alternative for treating black leaf spot. It’s an oil pressed from an evergreen tree. It’s all natural and has shown some remarkable results as an effective garden fungicide. For those of you who prefer Grandma’s solutions to garden problems, try this: Mix one heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a gallon of water for your sprayer. Add a dash of horticultural oil or horticultural soap and Voila! You have a method of treating black leaf spot that works by changing the pH on the leaf surface to one the fungus can’t survive. The oil or soap makes the solution stick and the cost is around four cents a gallon.
The next step in getting rid of black leaf spot is prevention and maintenance. The first, we already talked about. Inspect your garden regularly in the spring. Black spots on plant tissues will spread quickly. Start preventative spraying before the temperatures hit sixty. Read the label directions for the method you choose and follow it closely. For Grandma’s recipe, a light weekly dose should be sufficient. Continue spraying until temperatures are hot enough to get rid of black spot fungus without. Avoid watering your plants on cloudy days. Bright sun and good air circulation are essential for getting rid of black leaf spot. During an outbreak, all affected debris should be disposed of. It may not be ideal as far as looks go, but affected plants should be cut back, and in the fall every bit of garden debris should be thrown away or burned. The spores can overwinter on plant material, but can’t survive in bare soil. The good news is that black spot fungus rarely kills the host plant. Getting rid of black leaf spot takes a lot of diligence, but in the end, the rewards are worth it.
What is Black Spot Fungus?
Don’t let the name fool you. Diplocarpon rosae, or black spot fungus, isn’t just a disease of roses. It can attack any plant with fleshy leaves and stems if the conditions are right. You’ve already taken the first step in treating black leaf spot. You’ve been inspecting your garden on a regular basis and you’ve caught it early. Black spot fungus begins to develop in the spring when temperatures reach into the sixties and the garden has been continuously wet for six to nine hours. By the time temperatures reach into the seventies, the disease is running rampant and won’t slow down until the daytime temperatures rise above 85 F. (29 C.). It starts with tiny black spots on leaves, no bigger than a pinhead. As the fungus develops, those black spots on leaves are ringed with yellow. Soon the entire leaf turns yellow and falls.
Treating Black Leaf Spot Fungus
Getting rid of black leaf spot must be a two-pronged attack. Because its spores travel on the wind and plash from leaf to leaf during watering, treating black leaf spot should be first on your agenda. There are several good fungicides on the market, several of which claim to be organic. They come in handy bottle sprayers, but if your garden is large, you might want to buy it as a concentrate to mix in your tank sprayer. Neem oil is another alternative for treating black leaf spot. It’s an oil pressed from an evergreen tree. It’s all natural and has shown some remarkable results as an effective garden fungicide. For those of you who prefer Grandma’s solutions to garden problems, try this: Mix one heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a gallon of water for your sprayer. Add a dash of horticultural oil or horticultural soap and Voila! You have a method of treating black leaf spot that works by changing the pH on the leaf surface to one the fungus can’t survive. The oil or soap makes the solution stick and the cost is around four cents a gallon.
The next step in getting rid of black leaf spot is prevention and maintenance. The first, we already talked about. Inspect your garden regularly in the spring. Black spots on plant tissues will spread quickly. Start preventative spraying before the temperatures hit sixty. Read the label directions for the method you choose and follow it closely. For Grandma’s recipe, a light weekly dose should be sufficient. Continue spraying until temperatures are hot enough to get rid of black spot fungus without. Avoid watering your plants on cloudy days. Bright sun and good air circulation are essential for getting rid of black leaf spot. During an outbreak, all affected debris should be disposed of. It may not be ideal as far as looks go, but affected plants should be cut back, and in the fall every bit of garden debris should be thrown away or burned. The spores can overwinter on plant material, but can’t survive in bare soil. The good news is that black spot fungus rarely kills the host plant. Getting rid of black leaf spot takes a lot of diligence, but in the end, the rewards are worth it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
New growth on your plants is a promise of blooms, big beautiful leaves or, at the very least, an extended lifespan; but when that new growth is wilting or dying, most gardeners panic, not knowing what to do. Although dying growth on plants of any age is a serious and difficult problem to manage, there are a few things you can try to save your plants before they go belly up. Why New Growth is Dying Well, that’s really the question, isn’t it? The reasons for tender growth dying are numerous, but they can generally be divided into these categories: bugs, vascular disease and root damage. 
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
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