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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
The shade-loving coleus is a favorite among shade and container gardeners. With its bright leaves and tolerant nature, many gardeners wonder if coleus propagation can be done at home. The answer is, yes, and quite easily. Taking coleus cuttings or growing coleus from seed is quite easy. Keep reading to learn more about how to propagate coleus.
How to Plant Coleus Seed
Growing coleus from seed starts with getting the seeds. Coleus seeds are fairly easy to find and should be available at nearly any store that sells flower seeds. If you are unable to find them at a store, many companies sell them online. Coleus seeds are typically sold as mixed, which will give you a nice variety in the foliage colors.
Start sowing coleus seed with a flat or container with a damp potting soil. Lightly sprinkle the coleus seeds over the soil. Mixing the seeds with fine sand before sowing can help you to spread the seeds more evenly with a bit more of a gap between the seeds.
After you have spread the coleus seeds, cover them with a fine layer of potting soil. Cover the container with plastic and place in a warm spot in bright, indirect light. You should see seedlings in about two weeks. When you see the coleus seedlings, remove the plastic. Keep the soil moist as the seedlings grow. You will find it is less damaging to the coleus seedlings to water from below. Once the seedlings are large enough to be handled (typically when they have two sets of true leaves), they can be transplanted to individual containers.
How to Root Coleus Cuttings
Equally as easy as growing coleus from seed is taking coleus cuttings to root and grow. Start this method of coleus propagation by finding a mature coleus plant. Using a sharp. Clean pair of scissors or shears, cut off as many coleus cuttings as desired. The cuttings should be between 4 to 6 inches. Make the cut for the cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove all of the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. If desired, dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Prepare the soil you will be rooting the coleus cutting in by making sure that it is thoroughly moistened. Then stick a pencil into the soil. Place the coleus cutting into the hole made by the pencil. The soil should cover at least the bottom most leafless node. Push the soil back around the cutting.
Place the rooting container in a plastic zip top bag or cover the entire container with plastic wrap. Make sure that the plastic is not touching the cutting. If needed, use toothpicks of sticks to keep the plastic off the cutting. Place the container in bright, but indirect light. The coleus cutting should root in two to three weeks. You will know it is rooted when you see new growth on the coleus cutting. Alternately, another method for how to root coleus cuttings is in water. After taking your cuttings, place them in a small glass of water and place this in bright indirect light. Change the water every other day. Once you see roots grow, you can transplant the coleus cuttings into soil.
How to Plant Coleus Seed
Growing coleus from seed starts with getting the seeds. Coleus seeds are fairly easy to find and should be available at nearly any store that sells flower seeds. If you are unable to find them at a store, many companies sell them online. Coleus seeds are typically sold as mixed, which will give you a nice variety in the foliage colors.
Start sowing coleus seed with a flat or container with a damp potting soil. Lightly sprinkle the coleus seeds over the soil. Mixing the seeds with fine sand before sowing can help you to spread the seeds more evenly with a bit more of a gap between the seeds.
After you have spread the coleus seeds, cover them with a fine layer of potting soil. Cover the container with plastic and place in a warm spot in bright, indirect light. You should see seedlings in about two weeks. When you see the coleus seedlings, remove the plastic. Keep the soil moist as the seedlings grow. You will find it is less damaging to the coleus seedlings to water from below. Once the seedlings are large enough to be handled (typically when they have two sets of true leaves), they can be transplanted to individual containers.
How to Root Coleus Cuttings
Equally as easy as growing coleus from seed is taking coleus cuttings to root and grow. Start this method of coleus propagation by finding a mature coleus plant. Using a sharp. Clean pair of scissors or shears, cut off as many coleus cuttings as desired. The cuttings should be between 4 to 6 inches. Make the cut for the cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove all of the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. If desired, dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Prepare the soil you will be rooting the coleus cutting in by making sure that it is thoroughly moistened. Then stick a pencil into the soil. Place the coleus cutting into the hole made by the pencil. The soil should cover at least the bottom most leafless node. Push the soil back around the cutting.
Place the rooting container in a plastic zip top bag or cover the entire container with plastic wrap. Make sure that the plastic is not touching the cutting. If needed, use toothpicks of sticks to keep the plastic off the cutting. Place the container in bright, but indirect light. The coleus cutting should root in two to three weeks. You will know it is rooted when you see new growth on the coleus cutting. Alternately, another method for how to root coleus cuttings is in water. After taking your cuttings, place them in a small glass of water and place this in bright indirect light. Change the water every other day. Once you see roots grow, you can transplant the coleus cuttings into soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Curcuma longa is a sterile triploid organism that has evolved through natural selection and propagation. A relative of ginger and sharing similar growing conditions, it is a hybrid of the wild turmeric found in Southern Asia, with India being the predominant producer of growing turmeric plants for trade. Turmeric can also be found in China (where it has been cultivated since the seventh century), Jamaica, Indonesia and Malaysia. Let’s learn more about this plant, its benefits and how to grow turmeric in the home or garden.
What Does the Turmeric Plant Look Like?
Turmeric plants grow to 3 feet high with large, 5-inch, deep green leaves. The blooms are green and white edged with vibrant pink and yellow.
Turmeric Benefits
Growing turmeric plants are great sources of vitamin C, magnesium and potassium, but the list of turmeric benefits doesn’t stop there. With the cultivation of turmeric dating from 300 BC by the Harappan civilization, turmeric has been long found to have a plethora of medicinal benefits. Arthritis, muscle sprains, swelling, and pain caused by injury or surgical incision has been shown to be relieved. Stomach and liver ailments, skin diseases and some heart related diseases can all be aided with the use of turmeric plants. It can be utilized as a blood purifier, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant too. Growing turmeric and using the Curcumin from the plants may aid in the battle against certain types of cancer, including leukemia. Further studies have shown that turmeric plants may also be beneficial to those afflicted with Alzheimer’s disease. In China, the plants have been used as a treatment for depression. There are additional turmeric benefits to one’s daily life, such as its use in cosmetics or sunscreen, as a home remedy for sunburn, as a dye for the body or cloth, and even as a depilatory for Indian women. It is widely reputed to aid in digestion and for this reason is a major ingredient in Indian cuisine, including curry. Turmeric is also the ingredient which lends its brilliant yellow color to mustards.
Can You Grow Turmeric?
Can you grow turmeric? Sure, although turmeric plants are really better suited to open fields with a climate that is not easily found in North America. That said, with the correct conditions, I would give it a go. A hardy ginger, growing turmeric plants require certain conditions such as humid warm weather and significant rain. When growing these plants in the home or garden, temperatures between 68-86 F. (20-30 C.) are required.
How to Grow Turmeric?
These hardy ginger relatives die back in the winter and pop back up in the spring, growing from a system of rhizomes and propagating via vegetative reproduction. This means that each piece of rhizome has the capacity to become a new plant, provided each division has a piece of the crown. You can start growing turmeric this way with a small piece of rhizome gifted to you from another gardener or purchased from a nursery. Either way, you will soon have a forest of turmeric plants as they grow and spread rapidly. When one is growing turmeric, choose a morning sun exposure with afternoon part shade and moist clay to part clay soil. Planting takes place in the spring. Plant the section 4 inches deep, unless container gardening in which case 1 to 2 inches may be sufficient. Maintain adequate moisture and dig the roots up in late fall or early winter when the plant is dormant. Remember, these plants may be injured if temperatures fall below 50 F (10 C.).
What Does the Turmeric Plant Look Like?
Turmeric plants grow to 3 feet high with large, 5-inch, deep green leaves. The blooms are green and white edged with vibrant pink and yellow.
Turmeric Benefits
Growing turmeric plants are great sources of vitamin C, magnesium and potassium, but the list of turmeric benefits doesn’t stop there. With the cultivation of turmeric dating from 300 BC by the Harappan civilization, turmeric has been long found to have a plethora of medicinal benefits. Arthritis, muscle sprains, swelling, and pain caused by injury or surgical incision has been shown to be relieved. Stomach and liver ailments, skin diseases and some heart related diseases can all be aided with the use of turmeric plants. It can be utilized as a blood purifier, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant too. Growing turmeric and using the Curcumin from the plants may aid in the battle against certain types of cancer, including leukemia. Further studies have shown that turmeric plants may also be beneficial to those afflicted with Alzheimer’s disease. In China, the plants have been used as a treatment for depression. There are additional turmeric benefits to one’s daily life, such as its use in cosmetics or sunscreen, as a home remedy for sunburn, as a dye for the body or cloth, and even as a depilatory for Indian women. It is widely reputed to aid in digestion and for this reason is a major ingredient in Indian cuisine, including curry. Turmeric is also the ingredient which lends its brilliant yellow color to mustards.
Can You Grow Turmeric?
Can you grow turmeric? Sure, although turmeric plants are really better suited to open fields with a climate that is not easily found in North America. That said, with the correct conditions, I would give it a go. A hardy ginger, growing turmeric plants require certain conditions such as humid warm weather and significant rain. When growing these plants in the home or garden, temperatures between 68-86 F. (20-30 C.) are required.
How to Grow Turmeric?
These hardy ginger relatives die back in the winter and pop back up in the spring, growing from a system of rhizomes and propagating via vegetative reproduction. This means that each piece of rhizome has the capacity to become a new plant, provided each division has a piece of the crown. You can start growing turmeric this way with a small piece of rhizome gifted to you from another gardener or purchased from a nursery. Either way, you will soon have a forest of turmeric plants as they grow and spread rapidly. When one is growing turmeric, choose a morning sun exposure with afternoon part shade and moist clay to part clay soil. Planting takes place in the spring. Plant the section 4 inches deep, unless container gardening in which case 1 to 2 inches may be sufficient. Maintain adequate moisture and dig the roots up in late fall or early winter when the plant is dormant. Remember, these plants may be injured if temperatures fall below 50 F (10 C.).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is an herbaceous perennial in the family Brassicaceae. Since the plants do not produce viable seeds, propagation of horseradish is via root or crown cuttings. These hardy plants can become quite invasive, so dividing horseradish plants becomes a necessity. The question is when to split horseradish roots. The following article contains information on how to divide a horseradish plant and other useful information on horseradish root division.
When to Split Horseradish Roots
Horseradish is suited for growing in USDA zones 4-8. The plant grows best in full sun to partial sun in warmer regions, in almost all soil types provided they are well-draining and highly fertile with a pH of 6.0-7.5, and thrive in cooler temperatures. Horseradish root division should occur when the leaves have been killed off by frost or late in the fall in warmer regions. If you live in a really warm area where ground temps stay above 40 degrees F. (4 C.) year round, horseradish can be grown as an annual and roots will be harvested and stored in the refrigerator until propagation of horseradish in the spring.
How to Divide a Horseradish Plant
Prior to dividing horseradish plants in the fall, prepare the planting site by weeding and raking out any large pieces of detritus. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost and coarse sand, and dig it into a depth of one foot. Loosen the soil around the plants, about 3 inches out from the crown and down 10 inches into the soil. Lift the plants carefully from the ground with a fork or shovel. Brush off the large clumps of soil from the roots and then wash them with a garden hose to remove the remaining dirt. Let them dry in a shaded area. Wash a sharp gardening knife with hot soap and water and then sanitize with rubbing alcohol to remove any pathogens that might infect the roots prior to cutting into them. Dry the knife with a paper towel. Propagation of horseradish is done with either root or crown cuttings. Regions with short growing seasons should use the crown method. To create crown cuttings, slice the plant into equal portions with an even share of foliage and roots. For root cuttings, slice the slender side roots into 6- to 8-inch long sections, each with a diameter of around ¼ inch.
In your prepared planting site, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root of the cutting. Plant the new horseradish plants 2 feet apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Backfill around the plants until the root is covered. If using crown cuttings, fill in until the base of the stems are even with the rest of the bed. Water the cuttings in well, down to a 4-inch depth. Lay 3 inches of mulch down between the cuttings, leaving an inch between the mulch layer and the plants to help retain moisture. If you lack rain during the winter months, water each week down to a depth of an inch. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
When to Split Horseradish Roots
Horseradish is suited for growing in USDA zones 4-8. The plant grows best in full sun to partial sun in warmer regions, in almost all soil types provided they are well-draining and highly fertile with a pH of 6.0-7.5, and thrive in cooler temperatures. Horseradish root division should occur when the leaves have been killed off by frost or late in the fall in warmer regions. If you live in a really warm area where ground temps stay above 40 degrees F. (4 C.) year round, horseradish can be grown as an annual and roots will be harvested and stored in the refrigerator until propagation of horseradish in the spring.
How to Divide a Horseradish Plant
Prior to dividing horseradish plants in the fall, prepare the planting site by weeding and raking out any large pieces of detritus. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost and coarse sand, and dig it into a depth of one foot. Loosen the soil around the plants, about 3 inches out from the crown and down 10 inches into the soil. Lift the plants carefully from the ground with a fork or shovel. Brush off the large clumps of soil from the roots and then wash them with a garden hose to remove the remaining dirt. Let them dry in a shaded area. Wash a sharp gardening knife with hot soap and water and then sanitize with rubbing alcohol to remove any pathogens that might infect the roots prior to cutting into them. Dry the knife with a paper towel. Propagation of horseradish is done with either root or crown cuttings. Regions with short growing seasons should use the crown method. To create crown cuttings, slice the plant into equal portions with an even share of foliage and roots. For root cuttings, slice the slender side roots into 6- to 8-inch long sections, each with a diameter of around ¼ inch.
In your prepared planting site, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root of the cutting. Plant the new horseradish plants 2 feet apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Backfill around the plants until the root is covered. If using crown cuttings, fill in until the base of the stems are even with the rest of the bed. Water the cuttings in well, down to a 4-inch depth. Lay 3 inches of mulch down between the cuttings, leaving an inch between the mulch layer and the plants to help retain moisture. If you lack rain during the winter months, water each week down to a depth of an inch. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic propagation is often associated with the planting of garlic cloves, also referred to as vegetative reproduction or cloning. Another method for commercial propagation is on the rise too — growing garlic from bulbils. The question is can you, the home gardener, grow garlic from bulbils?
Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils?
First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only, there is no cross pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent.
There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases and is economical as well. Now I’m betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first you need to harvest them.
Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils
Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant, or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.
How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils
Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be of that of a normal sized bulb.
Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils?
First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only, there is no cross pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent.
There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases and is economical as well. Now I’m betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first you need to harvest them.
Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils
Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant, or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.
How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils
Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be of that of a normal sized bulb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is a component to most international cuisines. The herb’s popularity is a testament to its powers and intoxicating flavor. Add a little garlic to almost any dish and it perks up perceptibly. Garlic plant propagation is a noteworthy pursuit for those of us who need our garlic fix. Fresh bulbs, scapes and leaves add punch or delicate notes, depending upon your desires. Learn how to propagate garlic for a garden fresh supply of this Allium plant year around.
How to Propagate Garlic
You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate.
Planting Garlic Cloves
Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Keep trenches 6 inches apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.
Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed
Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and in a place with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.
Planting Garlic Bulbils
Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.
How to Propagate Garlic
You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate.
Planting Garlic Cloves
Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Keep trenches 6 inches apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.
Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed
Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and in a place with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.
Planting Garlic Bulbils
Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are quite a few ways to take cuttings off succulent plants, so it’s no wonder why it may seem intimidating. Read here to get information on cacti and succulent propagation.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
One of the easiest methods of plant propagation for cacti is by removing cactus pups. These don’t have furry ears and a tail but are the smaller versions of the parent plant at the base. Many species of cactus are known for growing cactus pups, which carry the identical characteristics of the parent without the capriciousness of seeds, which may produce plants with different characteristics. Removing offsets from cactus, also known as pups, not only produces another complete plant but is useful in containers that are overcrowded. Cactus propagation via offsets is easier than the slow growth of seed, the surgical precision of grafting and the variability of cuttings. The little cacti are small but complete copies of the parent species and simply need to be removed from the adult.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Off with your head! Cactus propagation is commonly done by grafting, a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. Grafting cactus plants is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try. Different species work better with different methods but a brief cactus grafting guide follows with basic instructions on how to graft a cactus. Cacti comprise some of my favorite plants due to their uniqueness of form and unusual characteristics. Propagation is through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are known for their beautiful, aromatic flowers. They are originally from tropical regions, but can grow in most places with the proper care. Like other plants, you can clone orchids through a method called propagation.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Any rose gardener knows that proper pruning is vital to the health of the bush and propagation of future blooms. They also know that disposal of the cuttings can be cumbersome and painful. The thorny branches are hard to handle and they don't degrade well in compost heaps. A good alternative is to burn your prunings.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Taking cuttings from a cactus plant is an easy method of propagation, as long as you're careful around the spines! Pad-forming, columnar, or segmented cacti can all be cloned in this way. Since cacti are drought-tolerant, cuttings will not suffer when exposed to the air, and actually prefer to dry out in order to propagate. Ideally, plant in the springtime when cacti are beginning to initiate new growth. Cuttings will only propagate successfully during certain months. When nighttime temperatures are 60 degrees F and above, its a good time to take cuttings.
Step 1
Cut a cactus segment using a sharp, clean knife -- ideally, serrated. If cloning a pad cactus, cut between the pads. Cut a columnar cactus anywhere along the stem at a 45-degree angle. Cuttings can vary greatly in size, from immature globes to meter-long stem pieces.
Step 2
Square off the base of the cutting and let it sit in a warm, dry place until it dries. If it is not allowed to dry, the tip may rot. Wait until a callus forms, which will protect it from soil-borne diseases. This can take one to 14 days.
Step 3
Fill growing containers with a propagation mix of 1/2 organic and 1/2 inorganic material, ideally peat or compost and pumice or perlite. Place cuttings deeply into the mix, ensuring they will not topple over. Columnar cacti may need to be placed especially deep.
Step 4
Provide plenty of sunshine and cool temperatures for the first few months as the cutting is taking hold. Avoid over-watering in these early stages, as it may lead to rot. Gallon-size containers can sustain the cuttings for the first year.
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