文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月14日
Rue is a short-lived perennial herb with a small, shrub-like growth habit. It features aromatic, blue-green foliage with a fern-like appearance. And in the summertime, it sports clusters of small yellow flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators to the garden, as well as parasitic wasps. The ornamental herb has a moderate growth rate and should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Be aware that despite their past as a traditional use as a medicinal herb, rue leaves are toxic both to people1 and pets2.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace
Botanical Name Ruta graveolens
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
How to Plant Rue
When to Plant
Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site
If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit.
Rue Plant Care
Light
Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade.
Soil
Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers.
Pollination
Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination.
Types of Rue
There are several varieties of rue, including:
‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves.
‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma.
‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them.
Rue vs. Fenugreek
As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads.
Harvesting Rue
Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes.
How to Grow Rue in Pots
If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.
Pruning
Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished.
Propagating Rue
It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how:
Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth.
Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting.
Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix.
Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture.
Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed.
How to Grow Rue From Seed
Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere.
Potting and Repotting Rue
You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting.
The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers.
Overwintering
In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ
Is rue easy to grow?
Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
How long does it take to grow rue?
Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks.
Does rue come back every year?
Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月15日
Carrots are biennial vegetables, though they are typically harvested in their first year of growth, before they overwinter, and set flowers the following year. Carrot foliage is finely dissected, with fern-like compound leaves. Carrot flowers have five petals and sepals, and are born in compound umbels. Most roots are about 1 inch in diameter and anywhere from one inch to more than 12 inches long. Carrots are best known for long, orange roots, but they actually come in several colors and shapes.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot
Botanical Name Daucus carota
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Vegetable
Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8)
Bloom Time Spring (second growing season)
Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual)
Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia
How to Plant Carrots
When to Plant
Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter.
Selecting a Site
Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either.
Carrot Care
Light
Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars.
Soil
Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.
Water
Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool.
Temperature and Humidity
These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth
Types of Carrots
There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include:
'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing
'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage
'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot
'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized
Carrots vs. Parsnips
Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish.
Harvesting Carrots
Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it.
Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness.
If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots.
How to Grow Carrots in Pots
Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers.
Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week.
Pruning
To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature.
How to Plant Carrots From Seed
Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well.
Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow.
Give seeds 1 inch of water a week.
When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart.
Overwintering
You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric).
Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere.
Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method.
A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月16日
The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), also known as the sword fern, is a popular fern species that grows in many tropical areas around the world. It is also commonly kept as a houseplant, especially because it doesn’t have high sunlight needs. The foliage of this fern remains evergreen. Its sword-shaped, blue-green fronds with many tiny leaflets are erect and arch as they grow larger. Like several other fern species, the Boston fern is a fairly slow grower and is best planted in the fall or spring.
Botanical Name Nephrolepis exaltata
Common Names Boston fern, sword fern, ladder fern, boss fern
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zone 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia
Boston Fern Care
Boston ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like warm and humid conditions. And they don’t enjoy temperature extremes, either outside or from drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents indoors. It’s important to maintain stable growing conditions for Boston ferns, as any element to their care that’s out of whack can quickly damage the plant.
Plan to water frequently to prevent the soil from drying out. And fertilize from spring to fall when the plant is actively growing. Regularly misting your fern or using other means to raise humidity also is typically a must unless you live in a very humid climate. While pruning typically isn't a major chore, you should remove dead fronds as needed to keep the plant looking attractive. Overall, these plants don't have any major pest or disease problems as long as their growing conditions are met.
Light
Boston ferns do best in bright, indirect light. Too much shade can result in sparse fronds that aren’t their typical bright color. And too much sun can burn the fronds. So both outdoors and indoors, make sure direct sunlight won’t hit your plant.
Soil
These ferns like organically rich, loamy soil with good drainage. Poorly drained soil can cause root rot and ultimately kill the plant. For container Boston fern plants, use a peat-based potting mix.
Water
To successfully grow Boston ferns, it is key to keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) at all times. If the soil begins to dry out, the fern’s foliage can quickly dry out and drop off the plant. During the fall and winter months, slightly reduce watering, as the plant is not actively growing. But if you notice the fronds getting dry, increase the amount of water you are giving the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Boston ferns prefer mild temperatures between roughly 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can’t tolerate either extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit can harm them, as can temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity also is critical for Boston ferns. They thrive in humidity levels of above 80 percent. To raise the humidity around your fern, set it on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Also, regularly mist the plant. If it’s not getting enough humidity, the tips of the fronds will begin to turn brown, which can eventually overtake the whole frond (and plant) if the humidity doesn’t increase.
Fertilizer
From the spring to early fall, feed your Boston fern with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month. No fertilization is necessary over the late fall and winter months.
Boston Fern Varieties
There are several varieties of Boston ferns that vary somewhat in appearance, including:
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta': This is a shorter, more compact, and more upright version of the main species plant.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Florida Ruffle': A medium-size cultivar, it has feathery, ruffled fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Golden Boston': Yellow-green fronds adorn this variety.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Rita's Gold': This is a compact plant with chartreuse fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Fluffy Duffy': A small, dense fern, it has finely textured, feathery fronds.
Propagating Boston Ferns
Boston ferns are very easy plants to propagate by division. When repotting in the spring, carefully cut off a section of the fern with healthy roots attached. Even very small sections can become established as new plants with the proper care. Plant your division in fresh potting mix, and make sure to keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Also, keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts and temperature fluctuations and out of direct sunlight. Once you feel resistance when gently pulling on the base of the fronds, you'll know it has taken root.
Potting and Repotting Boston Ferns
Pot Boston ferns in a container with ample drainage holes that's slightly larger than the plant's root ball. Once the roots are poking out of the soil, it's time to repot. Another telltale sign that the fern is out of space is if it's not growing as much as it normally does. Repotting is best done in the spring. Select just one container size up. Gently remove the fern from its old pot, and replant it at the same depth in the new pot using fresh potting mix.
Botanical Name Nephrolepis exaltata
Common Names Boston fern, sword fern, ladder fern, boss fern
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zone 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia
Boston Fern Care
Boston ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like warm and humid conditions. And they don’t enjoy temperature extremes, either outside or from drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents indoors. It’s important to maintain stable growing conditions for Boston ferns, as any element to their care that’s out of whack can quickly damage the plant.
Plan to water frequently to prevent the soil from drying out. And fertilize from spring to fall when the plant is actively growing. Regularly misting your fern or using other means to raise humidity also is typically a must unless you live in a very humid climate. While pruning typically isn't a major chore, you should remove dead fronds as needed to keep the plant looking attractive. Overall, these plants don't have any major pest or disease problems as long as their growing conditions are met.
Light
Boston ferns do best in bright, indirect light. Too much shade can result in sparse fronds that aren’t their typical bright color. And too much sun can burn the fronds. So both outdoors and indoors, make sure direct sunlight won’t hit your plant.
Soil
These ferns like organically rich, loamy soil with good drainage. Poorly drained soil can cause root rot and ultimately kill the plant. For container Boston fern plants, use a peat-based potting mix.
Water
To successfully grow Boston ferns, it is key to keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) at all times. If the soil begins to dry out, the fern’s foliage can quickly dry out and drop off the plant. During the fall and winter months, slightly reduce watering, as the plant is not actively growing. But if you notice the fronds getting dry, increase the amount of water you are giving the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Boston ferns prefer mild temperatures between roughly 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can’t tolerate either extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit can harm them, as can temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity also is critical for Boston ferns. They thrive in humidity levels of above 80 percent. To raise the humidity around your fern, set it on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Also, regularly mist the plant. If it’s not getting enough humidity, the tips of the fronds will begin to turn brown, which can eventually overtake the whole frond (and plant) if the humidity doesn’t increase.
Fertilizer
From the spring to early fall, feed your Boston fern with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month. No fertilization is necessary over the late fall and winter months.
Boston Fern Varieties
There are several varieties of Boston ferns that vary somewhat in appearance, including:
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta': This is a shorter, more compact, and more upright version of the main species plant.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Florida Ruffle': A medium-size cultivar, it has feathery, ruffled fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Golden Boston': Yellow-green fronds adorn this variety.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Rita's Gold': This is a compact plant with chartreuse fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Fluffy Duffy': A small, dense fern, it has finely textured, feathery fronds.
Propagating Boston Ferns
Boston ferns are very easy plants to propagate by division. When repotting in the spring, carefully cut off a section of the fern with healthy roots attached. Even very small sections can become established as new plants with the proper care. Plant your division in fresh potting mix, and make sure to keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Also, keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts and temperature fluctuations and out of direct sunlight. Once you feel resistance when gently pulling on the base of the fronds, you'll know it has taken root.
Potting and Repotting Boston Ferns
Pot Boston ferns in a container with ample drainage holes that's slightly larger than the plant's root ball. Once the roots are poking out of the soil, it's time to repot. Another telltale sign that the fern is out of space is if it's not growing as much as it normally does. Repotting is best done in the spring. Select just one container size up. Gently remove the fern from its old pot, and replant it at the same depth in the new pot using fresh potting mix.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月02日
Contrary to its name, the Australian tree fern is actually more tree than fern. Typically, when we think of ferns, we picture plants such as painted ferns (Athyrium niponicum), which achieve a mature height of just 18 inches. But in its native habitat of Australia, it can grow up to 25 feet or more. This tropical plant is easily too large for most indoor growing situations except for large greenhouses. Still, if your space and environment allow, it can be a beautiful addition to your landscape.
Characterized by lacy, feathery fronds, and a hair-like, scale-covered trunk, the fast-growing Australian tree fern can bring an exotic touch to any garden. It's best planted in the early spring and prefers warm temperatures and plentiful sunlight year-round.
Botanical Name Cyathea cooperi (also known by sphaeropteris cooperi)
Common Name Australian tree fern, Cooper's tree fern, lacy tree fern, scaly tree fern
Plant Type Evergreen fern
Mature Size 15–25 ft. tall, 10–12 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Australia
Australian Tree Fern Care
Australian tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy Australian tree fern is to provide it with ample humidity and consistency. Additionally, these plants are tolerant of salty winds near coastlines, but not salty soil conditions.
The trunk of the Australian tree fern starts out as a low, wide clump and spreads as much as six feet in a year before growing upward into a single slender trunk covered in glossy, ginger-brown hairs. The fronds are broad, bright green with triangular lacy leaves; they do not change color in the fall, and there are no flowers or fruit.
The Australian tree fern is one of the most commonly-used tree ferns in the tropics, but unless you live in Australia or a similar region, you may have to go out of your way to get an Australian tree fern. They're mostly grown as large, potted ornamentals in the United States and, when they are grown outdoors, are found mainly in public gardens and arboretums in tropical or semi-tropical zones. The plant has also naturalized itself in Hawaii, where it's regarded as invasive due to its fast growth and prolific self-propagation.
Light
Although Australian tree ferns are shade-loving plants in general, they can also thrive in partial sun or full sun locations where they get over six hours of light a day. Keep in mind, the more direct light the plant receives, the more likely it is that you'll need to increase your watering cadence.
Soil
Australian tree ferns can tolerate a variety of soil conditions including sand, loam, and clay. That being said, they will thrive best in a moist, loamy mixture that is rich but well-draining with a neutral to acidic pH level. It's also recommended that you add a layer of mulch around the tree, which will add more nutrients to the soil and act as a barrier to seal in moisture (particularly during very hot weather).
Water
Keep the soil moist at all times. Australian tree ferns are not drought-tolerant and need weekly watering, with especially high levels of moisture or humidity in dry weather. Avoid watering the crown directly as this can cause rot—instead, water the trunk and ensure it's consistently moist.
Temperature and Humidity
Australian tree ferns like a consistently warm and humid environment, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Australian tree ferns do not acclimate well to rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which can result in browning fronds. In colder areas, you can grow the fern in a container, giving you the flexibility to move it indoors for the fall and winter once temperatures drop too low.
Fertilizer
During the growing season, feed your Australian tree fern with controlled-release fertilizer monthly, or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavier feeders and may require feeding every other week year-round.
Varieties of Australian Tree Ferns
There are about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but the species is actually Dicksonia antarctica, and it tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern (but has similar growth requirements).
Potting and Repotting Australian Tree Ferns
An Australian tree fern will grow rapidly, so make sure you plant it somewhere in your landscape where it has room to grow and expand. If you're growing your tree fern in a container, replant it annually into a larger pot (with fresh soil). When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room.
Common Pests and Diseases
While the Australian tree fern doesn't have any major issues with diseases or pests, it can be hit by the occasional bought of mites or mealybugs. Try first removing the infestation with strong sprays of water; if that doesn't work, treat the plant with neem oil or an insecticide until all signs of infestation have gone.
Characterized by lacy, feathery fronds, and a hair-like, scale-covered trunk, the fast-growing Australian tree fern can bring an exotic touch to any garden. It's best planted in the early spring and prefers warm temperatures and plentiful sunlight year-round.
Botanical Name Cyathea cooperi (also known by sphaeropteris cooperi)
Common Name Australian tree fern, Cooper's tree fern, lacy tree fern, scaly tree fern
Plant Type Evergreen fern
Mature Size 15–25 ft. tall, 10–12 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Australia
Australian Tree Fern Care
Australian tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy Australian tree fern is to provide it with ample humidity and consistency. Additionally, these plants are tolerant of salty winds near coastlines, but not salty soil conditions.
The trunk of the Australian tree fern starts out as a low, wide clump and spreads as much as six feet in a year before growing upward into a single slender trunk covered in glossy, ginger-brown hairs. The fronds are broad, bright green with triangular lacy leaves; they do not change color in the fall, and there are no flowers or fruit.
The Australian tree fern is one of the most commonly-used tree ferns in the tropics, but unless you live in Australia or a similar region, you may have to go out of your way to get an Australian tree fern. They're mostly grown as large, potted ornamentals in the United States and, when they are grown outdoors, are found mainly in public gardens and arboretums in tropical or semi-tropical zones. The plant has also naturalized itself in Hawaii, where it's regarded as invasive due to its fast growth and prolific self-propagation.
Light
Although Australian tree ferns are shade-loving plants in general, they can also thrive in partial sun or full sun locations where they get over six hours of light a day. Keep in mind, the more direct light the plant receives, the more likely it is that you'll need to increase your watering cadence.
Soil
Australian tree ferns can tolerate a variety of soil conditions including sand, loam, and clay. That being said, they will thrive best in a moist, loamy mixture that is rich but well-draining with a neutral to acidic pH level. It's also recommended that you add a layer of mulch around the tree, which will add more nutrients to the soil and act as a barrier to seal in moisture (particularly during very hot weather).
Water
Keep the soil moist at all times. Australian tree ferns are not drought-tolerant and need weekly watering, with especially high levels of moisture or humidity in dry weather. Avoid watering the crown directly as this can cause rot—instead, water the trunk and ensure it's consistently moist.
Temperature and Humidity
Australian tree ferns like a consistently warm and humid environment, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Australian tree ferns do not acclimate well to rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which can result in browning fronds. In colder areas, you can grow the fern in a container, giving you the flexibility to move it indoors for the fall and winter once temperatures drop too low.
Fertilizer
During the growing season, feed your Australian tree fern with controlled-release fertilizer monthly, or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavier feeders and may require feeding every other week year-round.
Varieties of Australian Tree Ferns
There are about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but the species is actually Dicksonia antarctica, and it tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern (but has similar growth requirements).
Potting and Repotting Australian Tree Ferns
An Australian tree fern will grow rapidly, so make sure you plant it somewhere in your landscape where it has room to grow and expand. If you're growing your tree fern in a container, replant it annually into a larger pot (with fresh soil). When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room.
Common Pests and Diseases
While the Australian tree fern doesn't have any major issues with diseases or pests, it can be hit by the occasional bought of mites or mealybugs. Try first removing the infestation with strong sprays of water; if that doesn't work, treat the plant with neem oil or an insecticide until all signs of infestation have gone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月27日
The asparagus fern isn’t exactly a common houseplant, but with its feathery, light foliage, it's quite attractive and can be successfully grown indoors. In warmer regions, the fern can be easily adapted to outdoor culture, where it sometimes grows like a creeper and can even become invasive. Indoors, the key to a robust asparagus fern is to keep the plant bushy and dense so its lace-like foliage forms an attractive mound.
Asparagus fern is a fern in name and appearance only. It actually belongs to the family Liliaceae and is a relative of lilies, including tulips, daylilies, amaryillis, and hostas. Asparagus fern has a lot of good qualities, but it comes with some important cautions. In warm, humid climates, asparagus ferns can spread rapidly when planted outdoors. It is considered an invasive species in Florida, Texas, and Hawaii. Asparagus fern is also toxic to children and pets1.
Botanical Name Asparagus aethiopicus
Common Name Asparagus fern
Plant Type Annual, houseplant
Mature Size Up to 2 feet high and 6 feet long
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors); part sun (outdoors)
Soil Type Well-drained potting soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 6.8
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White; flowers are insignificant
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Toxic for dogs and cats
Asparagus Fern Care
If you live in planting zones 9 or above, you can grow asparagus fern outdoors as a perennial. In all other zones, it can be planted as an annual or kept indoors as a houseplant. It's also popular as an outdoor container plant, where it is often used as a spiller. You can bring the container inside when the weather turns cold.
Asparagus fern's “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so take caution while trimming older specimens, and wear gardening gloves if you plan to prune an older plant. When asparagus fern is content in its location, it can produce small flowers and berries. You can plant these berries to propagate the fern.
Asparagus fern is fairly trouble-free, but indoors it may suffer from the same maladies common to most houseplants, especially mites and aphids.2 Insecticidal soap is usually effective.
Light
The asparagus fern thrives in dappled shade, although it can be acclimated to more light. Keep it out of direct, bright sunlight.
Soil
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Water
Keeping an asparagus fern hydrated takes a little effort, and this plant thrives on humidity. Indoor growing conditions can often be dry, especially due to winter heat. Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water. While the asparagus fern can dry out to the point of appearing dead, it likely isn't. Warmer, humid air and daily misting will help revive it. Outdoors, keep asparagus fern well watered to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Try to maintain a warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and not dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for too long. If you have a shady porch outside, or a greenhouse, the indoor plants will likely respond with abundant growth over the summer.
Fertilizer
Feed asparagus fern with liquid or water-soluble all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength. During summer, the plant may need weekly feedings; otherwise, feed monthly.
Asparagus Fern Varieties
Asparagus setaceus: Lacy foliage often used in flower arrangements; can grow to 10 feet in height if trained
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myeri': Also called foxtail asparagus; dense foliage on upright stems
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri': Popular as a hanging plant, with long dropping stems and a full, almost fluffy form
Pruning
Asparagus ferns are fast growers, and you may want to trim yours to keep it tidy. Conversely, it's okay if you want it to look wild and shaggy. Use clean garden shears or sharp scissors to give your plant shape.
Propagating Asparagus Fern
While this plant can be propagated by planting the seeds found in the berries, the easier and faster way is to dig up and divide the tuberous roots. In spring, dig up the entire plant and divide it into sections, each with a portion of root and growing shoots. Replant the pieces into individual pots or their own garden locations. It is best to keep the plant shaded until new growth begins.
How to Grow Asparagus Fern From Seed
Asparagus fern seeds come from their berries. Before planting, soak seeds overnight. Then, create starters by planting them 1/4" deep in pots or trays, indoors. Soil temperature should be at 70–80 degrees, Fahrenheit. Germination should take 4–8 weeks.
Potting and Repotting Asparagus Fern
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Asparagus ferns don't mind being slightly pot-bound, and can go up to two years before repotting. For the most successful repotting, divide the plant into big clumps, and be sure to take multiple underground roots when dividing. Place the divided plants into similar-sized pots to retain the tight growth habit. Asparagus ferns do not need large pots, as they are slow indoor spreaders.
Overwintering
If your outdoor temps dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, bring your asparagus ferns inside (if they're not already there). Keep them in bright light, away from drafts and radiators. Do not overwater, this can cause root problems.
Common Pests or Diseases
Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs like to hang out in this plant's leaves, get rid of them with insecticidal soap. Overly wet conditions can cause root-rot.
Asparagus fern is a fern in name and appearance only. It actually belongs to the family Liliaceae and is a relative of lilies, including tulips, daylilies, amaryillis, and hostas. Asparagus fern has a lot of good qualities, but it comes with some important cautions. In warm, humid climates, asparagus ferns can spread rapidly when planted outdoors. It is considered an invasive species in Florida, Texas, and Hawaii. Asparagus fern is also toxic to children and pets1.
Botanical Name Asparagus aethiopicus
Common Name Asparagus fern
Plant Type Annual, houseplant
Mature Size Up to 2 feet high and 6 feet long
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors); part sun (outdoors)
Soil Type Well-drained potting soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 6.8
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White; flowers are insignificant
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Toxic for dogs and cats
Asparagus Fern Care
If you live in planting zones 9 or above, you can grow asparagus fern outdoors as a perennial. In all other zones, it can be planted as an annual or kept indoors as a houseplant. It's also popular as an outdoor container plant, where it is often used as a spiller. You can bring the container inside when the weather turns cold.
Asparagus fern's “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so take caution while trimming older specimens, and wear gardening gloves if you plan to prune an older plant. When asparagus fern is content in its location, it can produce small flowers and berries. You can plant these berries to propagate the fern.
Asparagus fern is fairly trouble-free, but indoors it may suffer from the same maladies common to most houseplants, especially mites and aphids.2 Insecticidal soap is usually effective.
Light
The asparagus fern thrives in dappled shade, although it can be acclimated to more light. Keep it out of direct, bright sunlight.
Soil
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Water
Keeping an asparagus fern hydrated takes a little effort, and this plant thrives on humidity. Indoor growing conditions can often be dry, especially due to winter heat. Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water. While the asparagus fern can dry out to the point of appearing dead, it likely isn't. Warmer, humid air and daily misting will help revive it. Outdoors, keep asparagus fern well watered to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Try to maintain a warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and not dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for too long. If you have a shady porch outside, or a greenhouse, the indoor plants will likely respond with abundant growth over the summer.
Fertilizer
Feed asparagus fern with liquid or water-soluble all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength. During summer, the plant may need weekly feedings; otherwise, feed monthly.
Asparagus Fern Varieties
Asparagus setaceus: Lacy foliage often used in flower arrangements; can grow to 10 feet in height if trained
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myeri': Also called foxtail asparagus; dense foliage on upright stems
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri': Popular as a hanging plant, with long dropping stems and a full, almost fluffy form
Pruning
Asparagus ferns are fast growers, and you may want to trim yours to keep it tidy. Conversely, it's okay if you want it to look wild and shaggy. Use clean garden shears or sharp scissors to give your plant shape.
Propagating Asparagus Fern
While this plant can be propagated by planting the seeds found in the berries, the easier and faster way is to dig up and divide the tuberous roots. In spring, dig up the entire plant and divide it into sections, each with a portion of root and growing shoots. Replant the pieces into individual pots or their own garden locations. It is best to keep the plant shaded until new growth begins.
How to Grow Asparagus Fern From Seed
Asparagus fern seeds come from their berries. Before planting, soak seeds overnight. Then, create starters by planting them 1/4" deep in pots or trays, indoors. Soil temperature should be at 70–80 degrees, Fahrenheit. Germination should take 4–8 weeks.
Potting and Repotting Asparagus Fern
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Asparagus ferns don't mind being slightly pot-bound, and can go up to two years before repotting. For the most successful repotting, divide the plant into big clumps, and be sure to take multiple underground roots when dividing. Place the divided plants into similar-sized pots to retain the tight growth habit. Asparagus ferns do not need large pots, as they are slow indoor spreaders.
Overwintering
If your outdoor temps dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, bring your asparagus ferns inside (if they're not already there). Keep them in bright light, away from drafts and radiators. Do not overwater, this can cause root problems.
Common Pests or Diseases
Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs like to hang out in this plant's leaves, get rid of them with insecticidal soap. Overly wet conditions can cause root-rot.
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