文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can reproduce both asexually and sexually. Asexual reproduction does not use seeds and generates exact duplicates, or clones, of the parent rose. If you want to create new varieties of roses, you must grow them from seeds instead of utilizing asexual reproduction methods.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Climbing roses provide a colorful accent that can be trained onto trellises, around windows and doors or along eaves. The old-fashioned blooms have new life with today's modern hardscapes and landscape structures. Roses need at least six hours of sunlight a day, and the Texas climate provides that in spades. Climbers can flower just in spring, or flower repeatedly, giving a color show well into fall.
Old Garden Roses
Roses in older gardens are often cultivars that don't exist anymore. They can be found creeping over walls and fences or even in cemeteries with no one to care for them. These climbers are being preserved through cuttings and reintroduced into cultivation. Schulenburg Apricot, Katy Road Pink and Highway 290 Pink Buttons are examples of some of the old garden roses. Old roses, which are any variety produced before 1867, are resistant to many common rose problems and can be trained as an espalier or trellis form. Lady Banks grows 20-foot-tall canes, and Cecile Brunner is not far behind with 15- to 20-foot canes. Either would be excellent choices for their old-fashioned pastel blooms and hardy climbing nature.
1950s Cultivars
A lot of new cultivars were introduced in the 1950s. One of these, Climbing Pinkie, is an 8-foot-tall bush with semi-double pink flowers. The canes are thornless and the blooms carry a light fragrance. Don Juan Is a citrus-scented red rose that blooms fully even in the worst Texas heat. For vigor you can't beat Dortmund, a 1955 introduction. It can grow up to 30 feet tall and bears deep red flowers with a white center and bright yellow stamen. The roses have overlapping petals that give the blooms a frilled appearance. The thorns on this bush deserve respect as they are large and sharp.
Earth Kind
Earth Kind is a designation from Texas A&M University that rates roses for their health, environmental friendliness and tolerance to Texas' extreme climate. Sea Foam is a moderate climber that only gets 3 feet tall and then cascades downward. None of the roses in the Earth Kind program have been treated with any chemicals or even fertilized. New Dawn was the first rose to be patented in the U.S. it is a fast climber that can grow to 20 feet tall, sporting white flowers with pink centers. Reve 'd Or is another vigorous species climber. The Earth Kind rose designation is now being used in other states to categorize rose bushes for responsible growers.
Old Garden Roses
Roses in older gardens are often cultivars that don't exist anymore. They can be found creeping over walls and fences or even in cemeteries with no one to care for them. These climbers are being preserved through cuttings and reintroduced into cultivation. Schulenburg Apricot, Katy Road Pink and Highway 290 Pink Buttons are examples of some of the old garden roses. Old roses, which are any variety produced before 1867, are resistant to many common rose problems and can be trained as an espalier or trellis form. Lady Banks grows 20-foot-tall canes, and Cecile Brunner is not far behind with 15- to 20-foot canes. Either would be excellent choices for their old-fashioned pastel blooms and hardy climbing nature.
1950s Cultivars
A lot of new cultivars were introduced in the 1950s. One of these, Climbing Pinkie, is an 8-foot-tall bush with semi-double pink flowers. The canes are thornless and the blooms carry a light fragrance. Don Juan Is a citrus-scented red rose that blooms fully even in the worst Texas heat. For vigor you can't beat Dortmund, a 1955 introduction. It can grow up to 30 feet tall and bears deep red flowers with a white center and bright yellow stamen. The roses have overlapping petals that give the blooms a frilled appearance. The thorns on this bush deserve respect as they are large and sharp.
Earth Kind
Earth Kind is a designation from Texas A&M University that rates roses for their health, environmental friendliness and tolerance to Texas' extreme climate. Sea Foam is a moderate climber that only gets 3 feet tall and then cascades downward. None of the roses in the Earth Kind program have been treated with any chemicals or even fertilized. New Dawn was the first rose to be patented in the U.S. it is a fast climber that can grow to 20 feet tall, sporting white flowers with pink centers. Reve 'd Or is another vigorous species climber. The Earth Kind rose designation is now being used in other states to categorize rose bushes for responsible growers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Cloning roses is the process used to grow a new rose from the cutting of an old one. Typically a cutting or piece is taken from a fading rose bush or from a bouquet containing a variety that appeals to you, and you'd grow the same variety from that cutting. Cloning a rose is a long process that requires patience and attention to the cutting. Often clones begin to show progress in as little as a week, but some rose varieties can take much longer.
Step 1
Remove your cutting from the plant below the point where the stem and main cane join (heel). An ideal cutting is 5 inches long with five groups of leaves (leaflets) and a spent (past bloom) flower.
Step 2
Wrap the cutting with moist paper towel and place it in a sealed bag.
Step 3
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Miracle-Gro and of baking soda (prevents fungus) and a few drops of dish soap into a 16-ounce spray bottle full of water and shake.
Step 4
Fold the top of a zipper bag down about 2 inches and pour three cups of potting mix in.
Step 5
Pour slightly less than a cup of water into the bagged soil and knead into the soil.
Step 6
Press the bagged soil down and poke a hole into the center of the soil with your finger.
Step 7
Remove the cutting from the paper towel and cut the stem about ½ inch above the leaflets at the top of the cutting.
Step 8
Remove bottom leaves, leaving one large or two regular sized groups of leaves on the top of the stem.
Step 9
Cut across the heel of the stem, or below the lowest point where the leaf stem joins the cane (eye bud).
Step 10
Dip the cutting into liquid rooting compound and place it slanted into the hole you made, pressing the soil firmly around it.
Step 11
Unfold the bag and spray inside with the spray bottle solution.
Step 12
Close the zipper from both sides, leaving an inch open. Blow into the bag so that it expands before closing it completely.
Step 13
Place the bag in an area with bright, indirect sunlight and watch for new growth.
Step 14
Remove dead leaves, bud, and fungus if necessary. If the soil cracks around the stem move it gently into the crack to firm it up.
Step 15
Spray inside the bag and re-inflate it each time you open it.
Step 16
Begin opening the bag (one inch for three hours the first day) when you see two or three new leaflets, growth at the top of the soil but no roots, or if you see new roots inside the bottom of the bag for several weeks. If it droops or the leaflets turn brown, blow up the bag and close it. Try again in a few days.
Step 17
Close the bag after three hours if the cutting is unaffected. On the following day double the size of the opening and the length of time you open it (2 inches for 6 hours).
Step 18
Continue opening the bag a little more each day for a longer period of time until the bag is fully open.
Step 19
Fold down the top of the bag once the bag has remained open for a full day with no ill effects to the rose, and leave it open for four days.
Step 20
Spray once each day after opening. You'll begin to see roots forming at the bottom of the bag indicating the rose is ready to pot after about 10 to 30 days.
Step 1
Remove your cutting from the plant below the point where the stem and main cane join (heel). An ideal cutting is 5 inches long with five groups of leaves (leaflets) and a spent (past bloom) flower.
Step 2
Wrap the cutting with moist paper towel and place it in a sealed bag.
Step 3
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Miracle-Gro and of baking soda (prevents fungus) and a few drops of dish soap into a 16-ounce spray bottle full of water and shake.
Step 4
Fold the top of a zipper bag down about 2 inches and pour three cups of potting mix in.
Step 5
Pour slightly less than a cup of water into the bagged soil and knead into the soil.
Step 6
Press the bagged soil down and poke a hole into the center of the soil with your finger.
Step 7
Remove the cutting from the paper towel and cut the stem about ½ inch above the leaflets at the top of the cutting.
Step 8
Remove bottom leaves, leaving one large or two regular sized groups of leaves on the top of the stem.
Step 9
Cut across the heel of the stem, or below the lowest point where the leaf stem joins the cane (eye bud).
Step 10
Dip the cutting into liquid rooting compound and place it slanted into the hole you made, pressing the soil firmly around it.
Step 11
Unfold the bag and spray inside with the spray bottle solution.
Step 12
Close the zipper from both sides, leaving an inch open. Blow into the bag so that it expands before closing it completely.
Step 13
Place the bag in an area with bright, indirect sunlight and watch for new growth.
Step 14
Remove dead leaves, bud, and fungus if necessary. If the soil cracks around the stem move it gently into the crack to firm it up.
Step 15
Spray inside the bag and re-inflate it each time you open it.
Step 16
Begin opening the bag (one inch for three hours the first day) when you see two or three new leaflets, growth at the top of the soil but no roots, or if you see new roots inside the bottom of the bag for several weeks. If it droops or the leaflets turn brown, blow up the bag and close it. Try again in a few days.
Step 17
Close the bag after three hours if the cutting is unaffected. On the following day double the size of the opening and the length of time you open it (2 inches for 6 hours).
Step 18
Continue opening the bag a little more each day for a longer period of time until the bag is fully open.
Step 19
Fold down the top of the bag once the bag has remained open for a full day with no ill effects to the rose, and leave it open for four days.
Step 20
Spray once each day after opening. You'll begin to see roots forming at the bottom of the bag indicating the rose is ready to pot after about 10 to 30 days.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
A new owner of Tillandsia may wonder “can you water an air plant too much?” How often to mist air plants depends upon the type, the situation and the size of the plant as well as the environment. There are three main ways to keep your air plant moist. Once you know all three, you can decide which way will work best for your plant. This article will tell you the methods and how often to mist air plants. Then you will be on your way to healthy, happy Tillandsia of any variety.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
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