成长记
yluz
2017年08月08日
I new added a "suculentas" in my "garden"
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meriunkat：Su nombre scientifico es Graptosedum Francesco Baldi
成长记
Ashmoni
2017年08月08日
I new added a "Unknown" in my "garden"
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meriunkat：it's a Graptosedum Francesco Baldi or maybe it's a Graptopetalum Paraguayense"Ghost plant" 😁
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus is aptly named because it blooms just in time for the holiday season, although older plants may keep an erratic blooming schedule. Starting a new Christmas cactus is an ideal way to ensure that you enjoy its festive blooms on time. You can actually start a Christmas cactus by taking a stem cutting from an already established plant, which ensures that your new cactus takes on the same characteristics as its "parent" plant.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The best way to keep your cactus from turning brown is to ensure that its environment is one that's conducive to growing a healthy plant. Quarantine new plants and inspect them for pests and disease before exposing them to your other plants. Provide loose, clean, well-drained soil. Underwater, don't overwater, your plants.
Root Rot
If the base of your cactus is turning brown and the stems are soft and yellow, it could be a sign of root rot. Plants with root rot can be hard to save because the rot starts inside the cactus and works its way out, so symptoms aren't usually noticed until the rot is advanced. Stop watering plants with early rot, and try repotting them in well-draining soil. You can try saving a plant with advanced root rot by cutting away all signs of rot along with some of the healthy tissue surrounding it to ensure that it doesn't spread. Use a clean knife and wipe it with alcohol in between cuts. Apply sulfur powder to the wounds. Overwatering or damaged roots can cause root rot.
Scales
Scales are small insects that appear like brown spots on cacti because of their hard brown shell coverings. The scales feed on plant juices, weakening cacti and making them look yellow. Spray your cactus with a stream of water to remove scales, or wash your plant with a weak solution of detergent. Use malathion insecticide for large infestations. You can also kill scales by using a cotton swab to dab horticultural oil on each scale. This cuts off the scale's air supply so it suffocates.
Mites
Red spider mites are small reddish insects. They're so small that it's easier to look for their webs rather than the bugs themselves. Symptoms include white spots that turn rusty brown and usually appear at the top of the plant. If left untreated, mites kill your cactus by eating the entire outer layer of tissue off your plant. Water cacti from overhead with a strong stream of water to remove mites. Miticides can be used for large infestations.
Corking
The appearance of firm, brown, barklike tissue just above the soil of an otherwise healthy plant is a sign of corking and is part of the natural aging process of cacti. Corking always starts from the base of the cactus and moves upward. If a cactus turns brown from the top down, it's a sign of sunburn or some other problem.
Sunburn
Mild sunburn problems appear as a whitish discoloring, usually at the top and side facing the sun. Severe burns show up as hard brown scars on the burned surface. Cacti with brown scars have permanent damage. If your plant only has whitish discoloring, you can heal it by moving it into the shade. Cacti that aren't used to being in the sun have to be acclimated to it by providing full sun for a short time each day and then increasing exposure over a period of several weeks. Some species should never have full sun all day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Discovering succulents is like snorkeling for the first time: Gardeners are plunged into a new world of life forms in shapes and colors that seem to belong in a dream or fantasy. Succulents offer more than variety; they are also undemanding, low-maintenance plants. But think low-care, not no-care, so pruning remains a possibility.
Variety of Shapes
Succulents have leaves like: a) pancakes, b) donkey tails, c) zinnias, d) blue pieces of chalk or e) all of the above and a thousand other weird and beautiful designs. You guessed it, succulents come in many shapes and sizes. The thick leaves of the paddle plant (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, look like pancakes, while tree aeonium (Aeonium arboreum and cvs.) resemble zinnias, albeit enormous ones, up to 24 inches wide in zones 9 through 11. You'll have to live in a warm clime to grow donkey's tail (Sedum morganianum) or blue chalk sticks (Senecio mandraliscae) since they thrive in zone 11 and zones 10 through 11, respectively.
Tender Loving Low-Care
You don't have to pamper succulents like you do fussy, flowering prima donnas, but you shouldn't go off to Europe for a year and leave them on their own either. Succulents are famously drought-resistant. Their fat leaves serve as individual water reservoirs, so they don't need to be watered until their soil is dry. But in times of minimal irrigation, your succulents will die just like any other plant without water. Water thoroughly when you do water, and be sure the excess runs out through well-draining soil to prevent wet feet. Every now and again, get out the pruners.
To Prune or Not to Prune
To prune or not to prune, that is the question, and the answer is: sometimes, carefully. Obviously, you're not going to top a magnificent saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea, zones 9 through 11), and many types of yucca, such as mound-lily yucca agave (Yucca gloriosa, zones 9 through 11), are happiest if they spend their lives far from the clippers. But generally, don't hesitate to remove dead, diseased or broken leaves or branches from your succulents. Sterilize the cutting tool before using by wiping thoroughly with a clean rag soaked in denatured alcohol, and remove each damaged section several inches into healthy wood.
Neat Succulents
It will take you by surprise when long flower stalks emerge from succulents in spring, producing bold, bright flowers. But once the flowers and stems have faded, prune these back, close to their point of origin. You can also prune back hanging or branching succulents to make them more compact. Often plants with inadequate light get leggy as they rise on thin stems to search for more sun, so decapitate these, making each cut just above the point the stem veers off from the main branch. Since succulents propagate vegetatively, you can obtain new plants by planting the cut bits in well-draining soil after the pruning wounds dry for a few days.
Just Say No to Pineapples
Some gardeners enjoy shaping succulents like Queen Victoria agave (Agave victoriae-reginae, zones 9 through 11) into pineapple shapes, but this is not a good idea, according to the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association. This kind of pruning leaves open wounds that allow pests to enter the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent plants tend to have tough leaves and stems rarely troubled by pests. Insects, however, sometimes infest new growth and can cause long-term disfigurement. Small black insects on succulent plants could be aphids or ants associated with them, or hempitera bugs. Indoor potted succulents can also host sciarid flies in their soil.
Aphids
Black aphids or blackfly infest the young leaves and flower shoots of succulents. They are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/16 inch long and form colonies. Treat aphids with a spray based on insecticidal soap. Clemson University horticulture specialist Janet McLeod Scott advises testing any chemical on a small section of your plant and leaving it for 48 hours to make sure it is not toxic.
Ants
Ants do not damage succulents but may visit them to feed on the nectar in flowers. Ants also feed on a sweet substance produced by aphids and in return, tend aphid colonies and protect them from predators. Remove ants from succulents by treating the aphids that attract them.
Sciarid Flies
Sciarid flies or soil midges are tiny flying insects that live in damp soil and leaf litter. They are not common around succulents because they favor damp soil but can be a nuisance around indoor succulents. Sciarid fly larvae occasionally feed on the roots and lower stems of succulent plants. Treat sciarid flies by allowing the soil around your succulents to dry out and by avoiding peat-based composts.
Hemiptera Bugs
Hemiptera bugs are small, mobile insects with sucking mouthparts. Several species feed on succulents such as yuccas and cacti. Among them, Hesperolabops gelastop has a reddish colored head and blackish body. It lives in small groups on the upper surfaces of succulent leaves and causes pale blotches up to 1/2 inch across. Some yucca plants have Halticotoma bugs infestations, according to Texas A&M University professor Bastiaan M. Drees. They are 1/4 inch long with dark-gray bodies. Halticotoma bugs live in groups and scatter quickly when disturbed. Treat hemiptera bugs with a systemic insecticide containing dinotefuran or imidacloprid, applied in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It can be difficult to differentiate between leaf-related problems that occur in the summer garden, but angular leaf spot disease is pretty distinctive, making it easy for new gardeners to diagnose successfully. Plants that develop very regular leaf spots that follow veins may be suffering from this disease. Read on to find out more. What is Angular Leaf Spot? Angular leaf spot in plants is caused by several bacteria that survive in seeds and plant debris, including Pseudomonas syringae and Xanthomonas fragariae. These bacteria are somewhat host-specific, with P.
syringae targeting cucurbits and X. fragariae attacking strawberries. Symptoms first appear as small, water-soaked spots on leaves, but spread rapidly when conditions are moist and ambient temperatures are between 75 and 82 F. (24-28 C.). Spots expand until they fill the entire area between leaf veins, but do not cross over, which creates a tiled appearance on larger leaves. Older spots may dry out and tear, leaving holes behind. On fruits, angular leaf spot disease manifests as perfectly circular, water-soaked spots, much smaller than those on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots take on a chalky white appearance and may crack open, allowing pathogens to contaminate fruits and cause fruit rot.
How to Treat Angular Leaf Spot Treating angular leaf spot is not a simple, straightforward task. Once a plant is infected, it cannot be cured easily and most gardeners will remove the plant from their garden to prevent further spreading of the disease. Future problems can be prevented by only using certified, disease-free seed, practicing a three-year crop rotation with different plant families and making a habit out of cleaning up plant debris as it falls to the ground.
Beds with poor drainage or that are over-watered favor angular leaf spot — pay close attention to your watering habits if this disease has already developed in your plants. Before watering, check the soil moisture level with your hand. Unless the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, do not water; and when you do, make sure to water at the base of plants. Good watering practices can reduce the risk of many diseases, including angular leaf spots in plants.
syringae targeting cucurbits and X. fragariae attacking strawberries. Symptoms first appear as small, water-soaked spots on leaves, but spread rapidly when conditions are moist and ambient temperatures are between 75 and 82 F. (24-28 C.). Spots expand until they fill the entire area between leaf veins, but do not cross over, which creates a tiled appearance on larger leaves. Older spots may dry out and tear, leaving holes behind. On fruits, angular leaf spot disease manifests as perfectly circular, water-soaked spots, much smaller than those on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots take on a chalky white appearance and may crack open, allowing pathogens to contaminate fruits and cause fruit rot.
How to Treat Angular Leaf Spot Treating angular leaf spot is not a simple, straightforward task. Once a plant is infected, it cannot be cured easily and most gardeners will remove the plant from their garden to prevent further spreading of the disease. Future problems can be prevented by only using certified, disease-free seed, practicing a three-year crop rotation with different plant families and making a habit out of cleaning up plant debris as it falls to the ground.
Beds with poor drainage or that are over-watered favor angular leaf spot — pay close attention to your watering habits if this disease has already developed in your plants. Before watering, check the soil moisture level with your hand. Unless the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, do not water; and when you do, make sure to water at the base of plants. Good watering practices can reduce the risk of many diseases, including angular leaf spots in plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
New growth on your plants is a promise of blooms, big beautiful leaves or, at the very least, an extended lifespan; but when that new growth is wilting or dying, most gardeners panic, not knowing what to do. Although dying growth on plants of any age is a serious and difficult problem to manage, there are a few things you can try to save your plants before they go belly up. Why New Growth is Dying Well, that’s really the question, isn’t it? The reasons for tender growth dying are numerous, but they can generally be divided into these categories: bugs, vascular disease and root damage. 
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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