文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Description
This orchid is a common sight on the roadsides in the Pirin Mountains National Park in Bulgaria. It is a tall orchid - sometimes growing up to 90 cm in height - and fairly robust with a flower-spike that is rather lax in appearance. At first conical, the flower spike becomes much more cylindrical as the flowers open fully.
Distribution
Dactylorhiza saccifera is widespread but not always common; it occurs in the Balkans and in Bulgaria, Algeria, Turkey, Greece and generally throughout the central and eastern Mediterranean region.
Habitat
Dactylorhiza saccifera blooms either in full sun or in partially shaded grassy places, and it can be found in the edges of woodland, in woodland clearings and, very commonly, on roadside verges.
Flowering times
This orchid flowers from May until well into July.
This orchid is a common sight on the roadsides in the Pirin Mountains National Park in Bulgaria. It is a tall orchid - sometimes growing up to 90 cm in height - and fairly robust with a flower-spike that is rather lax in appearance. At first conical, the flower spike becomes much more cylindrical as the flowers open fully.
Distribution
Dactylorhiza saccifera is widespread but not always common; it occurs in the Balkans and in Bulgaria, Algeria, Turkey, Greece and generally throughout the central and eastern Mediterranean region.
Habitat
Dactylorhiza saccifera blooms either in full sun or in partially shaded grassy places, and it can be found in the edges of woodland, in woodland clearings and, very commonly, on roadside verges.
Flowering times
This orchid flowers from May until well into July.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fishbone cactus boasts many colorful names. Ric Rac, Zigzag and Fishbone orchid cactus are just a few of these descriptive monikers. The names refer to the alternate pattern of the leaves along a central spine that resembles a fish skeleton. This stunning plant is an epiphytic specimen that can grow in low soil situations where other organic media are present. Growing fishbone cactus is easy even for the so-called “black thumb” gardener. Bring in a fishbone cactus houseplant and enjoy the crazy zigzag pattern of its succulent foliage.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum cactus are also called orchid cactus due to their lovely flowers. The flowers turn into a chubby little fruit filled with tiny seeds. Growing Ephiphyllum seeds will take some patience but it is a rewarding endeavor that will give you more of these beautiful epiphytic cacti. Epiphyllum have flat-leaf stems set in disjointed connections. The stems produce brilliantly colored flowers that may span up to nearly 10 inches in diameter but are more commonly an inch or two. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees in their native regions. As houseplants, they prefer a lightly gritty soil with peat moss as an addition.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum are epiphytic cacti as their name suggests. Some call them orchid cactus due to their large bright blooms and growth habit. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants, not in a parasitic fashion but as hosts. They are not cold hardy and generally can be found only as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. Caring for Epiphyllums is a water balancing act. They can’t be allowed to dry out, yet overwatering is a death sentence to these cacti. Here are a few tips on how to grow Epiphyllum and achieve healthy plants that will astound with their blooms and fruit.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
The Orchidaceae are a diverse and widespread family of flowering plants, with blooms that are often colourful and fragrant, commonly known as the orchid family.
Along with the Asteraceae, they are one of the two largest families of flowering plants. The Orchidaceae have about 28,000 currently accepted species, distributed in about 763 genera.The determination of which family is larger is still under debate, because verified data on the members of such enormous families are continually in flux. Regardless, the number of orchid species nearly equals the number of bony fishes and is more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. The family also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants.[4] The largest genera are Bulbophyllum (2,000 species), Epidendrum (1,500 species), Dendrobium (1,400 species) and Pleurothallis (1,000 species).
The family also includes Vanilla (the genus of the vanilla plant), Orchis (type genus), and many commonly cultivated plants such as Phalaenopsis and Cattleya. Moreover, since the introduction of tropical species into cultivation in the 19th century, horticulturists have produced more than 100,000 hybrids and cultivars.
Description
Orchids are easily distinguished from other plants, as they share some very evident, shared derived characteristics, or "apomorphies". Among these are: bilateral symmetry of the flower (zygomorphism), many resupinate flowers, a nearly always highly modified petal (labellum), fused stamens and carpels, and extremely small seeds.
Stem and roots
All orchids are perennial herbs that lack any permanent woody structure. They can grow according to two patterns:
Monopodial: The stem grows from a single bud, leaves are added from the apex each year and the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several metres in length, as in Vanda and Vanilla.
Sympodial: Sympodial orchids have a front (the newest growth) and a back (the oldest growth).The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size, bloom and then stop growing and are replaced. Sympodial orchids grow laterally rather than vertically, following the surface of their support. The growth continues by development of new leads, with their own leaves and roots, sprouting from or next to those of the previous year, as in Cattleya. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called 'eye', an undeveloped bud, thereby branching. Sympodial orchids may have visible pseudobulbs joined by a rhizome, which creeps along the top or just beneath the soil.
Terrestrial orchids may be rhizomatous or form corms or tubers. The root caps of terrestrial orchids are smooth and white.
Some sympodial terrestrial orchids, such as Orchis and Ophrys, have two subterranean tuberous roots. One is used as a food reserve for wintry periods, and provides for the development of the other one, from which visible growth develops.
In warm and constantly humid climates, many terrestrial orchids do not need pseudobulbs.
Epiphytic orchids, those that grow upon a support, have modified aerial roots that can sometimes be a few meters long. In the older parts of the roots, a modified spongy epidermis, called velamen, has the function to absorb humidity. It is made of dead cells and can have a silvery-grey, white or brown appearance. In some orchids, the velamen includes spongy and fibrous bodies near the passage cells, called tilosomes.
The cells of the root epidermis grow at a right angle to the axis of the root to allow them to get a firm grasp on their support. Nutrients for epiphytic orchids mainly come from mineral dust, organic detritus, animal droppings and other substances collecting among on their supporting surfaces.
The base of the stem of sympodial epiphytes, or in some species essentially the entire stem, may be thickened to form a pseudobulb that contains nutrients and water for drier periods.
The pseudobulb has a smooth surface with lengthwise grooves, and can have different shapes, often conical or oblong. Its size is very variable; in some small species of Bulbophyllum, it is no longer than two millimeters, while in the largest orchid in the world, Grammatophyllum speciosum (giant orchid), it can reach three meters. Some Dendrobium species have long, canelike pseudobulbs with short, rounded leaves over the whole length; some other orchids have hidden or extremely small pseudobulbs, completely included inside the leaves.
With ageing, the pseudobulb sheds its leaves and becomes dormant. At this stage, it is often called a backbulb. Backbulbs still hold nutrition for the plant, but then a pseudobulb usually takes over, exploiting the last reserves accumulated in the backbulb, which eventually dies off, too. A pseudobulb typically lives for about five years. Orchids without noticeable pseudobulbs are also said to have growths, an individual component of a sympodial plant.
Leaves
Like most monocots, orchids generally have simple leaves with parallel veins, although some Vanilloideae have reticulate venation. Leaves may be ovate, lanceolate, or orbiculate, and very variable in size on the individual plant. Their characteristics are often diagnostic. They are normally alternate on the stem, often folded lengthwise along the centre ("plicate"), and have no stipules. Orchid leaves often have siliceous bodies called stegmata in the vascular bundle sheaths (not present in the Orchidoideae) and are fibrous.
The structure of the leaves corresponds to the specific habitat of the plant. Species that typically bask in sunlight, or grow on sites which can be occasionally very dry, have thick, leathery leaves and the laminae are covered by a waxy cuticle to retain their necessary water supply. Shade-loving species, on the other hand, have long, thin leaves.
The leaves of most orchids are perennial, that is, they live for several years, while others, especially those with plicate leaves as in Catasetum, shed them annually and develop new leaves together with new pseudobulbs.
The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or rock-hugging ("lithophyte") orchid, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsis limminghei are light brownish-green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments. The attractive mottle of the leaves of lady's slippers from tropical and subtropical Asia (Paphiopedilum), is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also, Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its white flowers.
Some orchids, as Dendrophylax lindenii (ghost orchid), Aphyllorchis and Taeniophyllum depend on their green roots for photosynthesis and lack normally developed leaves, as do all of the heterotrophic species.
Orchids of the genus Corallorhiza (coralroot orchids) lack leaves altogether and instead wrap their roots around the roots of mature trees and use specialized fungi to harvest sugars.
Flowers
The Orchidaceae are well known for the many structural variations in their flowers.
Some orchids have single flowers, but most have a racemose inflorescence, sometimes with a large number of flowers. The flowering stem can be basal, that is, produced from the base of the tuber, like in Cymbidium, apical, meaning it grows from the apex of the main stem, like in Cattleya, or axillary, from the leaf axil, as in Vanda`.
As an apomorphy of the clade, orchid flowers are primitively zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical), although in some genera like Mormodes, Ludisia, and Macodes, this kind of symmetry may be difficult to notice.
The orchid flower, like most flowers of monocots, has two whorls of sterile elements. The outer whorl has three sepals and the inner whorl has three petals. The sepals are usually very similar to the petals (thus called tepals, 1), but may be completely distinct.
The medial petal, called the labellum or lip, which is always modified and enlarged, is actually the upper medial petal; however, as the flower develops, the inferior ovary or the pedicel usually rotates 180°, so that the labellum arrives at the lower part of the flower, thus becoming suitable to form a platform for pollinators. This characteristic, called resupination, occurs primitively in the family and is considered apomorphic, a derived characteristic all Orchidaceae share. The torsion of the ovary is very evident from the longitudinal section shown (below right). Some orchids have secondarily lost this resupination, e.g. Epidendrum secundum.
The normal form of the sepals can be found in Cattleya, where they form a triangle. In Paphiopedilum (Venus slippers), the lower two sepals are fused into a synsepal, while the lip has taken the form of a slipper. In Masdevallia, all the sepals are fused.
Orchid flowers with abnormal numbers of petals or lips are called peloric. Peloria is a genetic trait, but its expression is environmentally influenced and may appear random.
Orchid flowers primitively had three stamens, but this situation is now limited to the genus Neuwiedia. Apostasia and the Cypripedioideae have two stamens, the central one being sterile and reduced to a staminode. All of the other orchids, the clade called Monandria, retain only the central stamen, the others being reduced to staminodes . The filaments of the stamens are always adnate (fused) to the style to form cylindrical structure called the gynostemium or column .In the primitive Apostasioideae, this fusion is only partial; in the Vanilloideae, it is more deep; in Orchidoideae and Epidendroideae, it is total. The stigma is very asymmetrical, as all of its lobes are bent towards the centre of the flower and lie on the bottom of the column.
Pollen is released as single grains, like in most other plants, in the Apostasioideae, Cypripedioideae, and Vanilloideae. In the other subfamilies, which comprise the great majority of orchids, the anther carries two pollinia.
A pollinium is a waxy mass of pollen grains held together by the glue-like alkaloid viscin, containing both cellulosic strands and mucopolysaccharides. Each pollinium is connected to a filament which can take the form of a caudicle, as in Dactylorhiza or Habenaria, or a stipe, as in Vanda. Caudicles or stipes hold the pollinia to the viscidium, a sticky pad which sticks the pollinia to the body of pollinators.
At the upper edge of the stigma of single-anthered orchids, in front of the anther cap, is the rostellum , a slender extension involved in the complex pollination mechanism.
As mentioned, the ovary is always inferior (located behind the flower). It is three-carpelate and one or, more rarely, three-partitioned, with parietal placentation (axile in the Apostasioideae).
In 2011, Bulbophyllum nocturnum was discovered to flower nocturnally.
Along with the Asteraceae, they are one of the two largest families of flowering plants. The Orchidaceae have about 28,000 currently accepted species, distributed in about 763 genera.The determination of which family is larger is still under debate, because verified data on the members of such enormous families are continually in flux. Regardless, the number of orchid species nearly equals the number of bony fishes and is more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. The family also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants.[4] The largest genera are Bulbophyllum (2,000 species), Epidendrum (1,500 species), Dendrobium (1,400 species) and Pleurothallis (1,000 species).
The family also includes Vanilla (the genus of the vanilla plant), Orchis (type genus), and many commonly cultivated plants such as Phalaenopsis and Cattleya. Moreover, since the introduction of tropical species into cultivation in the 19th century, horticulturists have produced more than 100,000 hybrids and cultivars.
Description
Orchids are easily distinguished from other plants, as they share some very evident, shared derived characteristics, or "apomorphies". Among these are: bilateral symmetry of the flower (zygomorphism), many resupinate flowers, a nearly always highly modified petal (labellum), fused stamens and carpels, and extremely small seeds.
Stem and roots
All orchids are perennial herbs that lack any permanent woody structure. They can grow according to two patterns:
Monopodial: The stem grows from a single bud, leaves are added from the apex each year and the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several metres in length, as in Vanda and Vanilla.
Sympodial: Sympodial orchids have a front (the newest growth) and a back (the oldest growth).The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size, bloom and then stop growing and are replaced. Sympodial orchids grow laterally rather than vertically, following the surface of their support. The growth continues by development of new leads, with their own leaves and roots, sprouting from or next to those of the previous year, as in Cattleya. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called 'eye', an undeveloped bud, thereby branching. Sympodial orchids may have visible pseudobulbs joined by a rhizome, which creeps along the top or just beneath the soil.
Terrestrial orchids may be rhizomatous or form corms or tubers. The root caps of terrestrial orchids are smooth and white.
Some sympodial terrestrial orchids, such as Orchis and Ophrys, have two subterranean tuberous roots. One is used as a food reserve for wintry periods, and provides for the development of the other one, from which visible growth develops.
In warm and constantly humid climates, many terrestrial orchids do not need pseudobulbs.
Epiphytic orchids, those that grow upon a support, have modified aerial roots that can sometimes be a few meters long. In the older parts of the roots, a modified spongy epidermis, called velamen, has the function to absorb humidity. It is made of dead cells and can have a silvery-grey, white or brown appearance. In some orchids, the velamen includes spongy and fibrous bodies near the passage cells, called tilosomes.
The cells of the root epidermis grow at a right angle to the axis of the root to allow them to get a firm grasp on their support. Nutrients for epiphytic orchids mainly come from mineral dust, organic detritus, animal droppings and other substances collecting among on their supporting surfaces.
The base of the stem of sympodial epiphytes, or in some species essentially the entire stem, may be thickened to form a pseudobulb that contains nutrients and water for drier periods.
The pseudobulb has a smooth surface with lengthwise grooves, and can have different shapes, often conical or oblong. Its size is very variable; in some small species of Bulbophyllum, it is no longer than two millimeters, while in the largest orchid in the world, Grammatophyllum speciosum (giant orchid), it can reach three meters. Some Dendrobium species have long, canelike pseudobulbs with short, rounded leaves over the whole length; some other orchids have hidden or extremely small pseudobulbs, completely included inside the leaves.
With ageing, the pseudobulb sheds its leaves and becomes dormant. At this stage, it is often called a backbulb. Backbulbs still hold nutrition for the plant, but then a pseudobulb usually takes over, exploiting the last reserves accumulated in the backbulb, which eventually dies off, too. A pseudobulb typically lives for about five years. Orchids without noticeable pseudobulbs are also said to have growths, an individual component of a sympodial plant.
Leaves
Like most monocots, orchids generally have simple leaves with parallel veins, although some Vanilloideae have reticulate venation. Leaves may be ovate, lanceolate, or orbiculate, and very variable in size on the individual plant. Their characteristics are often diagnostic. They are normally alternate on the stem, often folded lengthwise along the centre ("plicate"), and have no stipules. Orchid leaves often have siliceous bodies called stegmata in the vascular bundle sheaths (not present in the Orchidoideae) and are fibrous.
The structure of the leaves corresponds to the specific habitat of the plant. Species that typically bask in sunlight, or grow on sites which can be occasionally very dry, have thick, leathery leaves and the laminae are covered by a waxy cuticle to retain their necessary water supply. Shade-loving species, on the other hand, have long, thin leaves.
The leaves of most orchids are perennial, that is, they live for several years, while others, especially those with plicate leaves as in Catasetum, shed them annually and develop new leaves together with new pseudobulbs.
The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or rock-hugging ("lithophyte") orchid, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsis limminghei are light brownish-green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments. The attractive mottle of the leaves of lady's slippers from tropical and subtropical Asia (Paphiopedilum), is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also, Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its white flowers.
Some orchids, as Dendrophylax lindenii (ghost orchid), Aphyllorchis and Taeniophyllum depend on their green roots for photosynthesis and lack normally developed leaves, as do all of the heterotrophic species.
Orchids of the genus Corallorhiza (coralroot orchids) lack leaves altogether and instead wrap their roots around the roots of mature trees and use specialized fungi to harvest sugars.
Flowers
The Orchidaceae are well known for the many structural variations in their flowers.
Some orchids have single flowers, but most have a racemose inflorescence, sometimes with a large number of flowers. The flowering stem can be basal, that is, produced from the base of the tuber, like in Cymbidium, apical, meaning it grows from the apex of the main stem, like in Cattleya, or axillary, from the leaf axil, as in Vanda`.
As an apomorphy of the clade, orchid flowers are primitively zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical), although in some genera like Mormodes, Ludisia, and Macodes, this kind of symmetry may be difficult to notice.
The orchid flower, like most flowers of monocots, has two whorls of sterile elements. The outer whorl has three sepals and the inner whorl has three petals. The sepals are usually very similar to the petals (thus called tepals, 1), but may be completely distinct.
The medial petal, called the labellum or lip, which is always modified and enlarged, is actually the upper medial petal; however, as the flower develops, the inferior ovary or the pedicel usually rotates 180°, so that the labellum arrives at the lower part of the flower, thus becoming suitable to form a platform for pollinators. This characteristic, called resupination, occurs primitively in the family and is considered apomorphic, a derived characteristic all Orchidaceae share. The torsion of the ovary is very evident from the longitudinal section shown (below right). Some orchids have secondarily lost this resupination, e.g. Epidendrum secundum.
The normal form of the sepals can be found in Cattleya, where they form a triangle. In Paphiopedilum (Venus slippers), the lower two sepals are fused into a synsepal, while the lip has taken the form of a slipper. In Masdevallia, all the sepals are fused.
Orchid flowers with abnormal numbers of petals or lips are called peloric. Peloria is a genetic trait, but its expression is environmentally influenced and may appear random.
Orchid flowers primitively had three stamens, but this situation is now limited to the genus Neuwiedia. Apostasia and the Cypripedioideae have two stamens, the central one being sterile and reduced to a staminode. All of the other orchids, the clade called Monandria, retain only the central stamen, the others being reduced to staminodes . The filaments of the stamens are always adnate (fused) to the style to form cylindrical structure called the gynostemium or column .In the primitive Apostasioideae, this fusion is only partial; in the Vanilloideae, it is more deep; in Orchidoideae and Epidendroideae, it is total. The stigma is very asymmetrical, as all of its lobes are bent towards the centre of the flower and lie on the bottom of the column.
Pollen is released as single grains, like in most other plants, in the Apostasioideae, Cypripedioideae, and Vanilloideae. In the other subfamilies, which comprise the great majority of orchids, the anther carries two pollinia.
A pollinium is a waxy mass of pollen grains held together by the glue-like alkaloid viscin, containing both cellulosic strands and mucopolysaccharides. Each pollinium is connected to a filament which can take the form of a caudicle, as in Dactylorhiza or Habenaria, or a stipe, as in Vanda. Caudicles or stipes hold the pollinia to the viscidium, a sticky pad which sticks the pollinia to the body of pollinators.
At the upper edge of the stigma of single-anthered orchids, in front of the anther cap, is the rostellum , a slender extension involved in the complex pollination mechanism.
As mentioned, the ovary is always inferior (located behind the flower). It is three-carpelate and one or, more rarely, three-partitioned, with parietal placentation (axile in the Apostasioideae).
In 2011, Bulbophyllum nocturnum was discovered to flower nocturnally.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The scientific name of this orchid - ericetorum - refers to the fact that it is frequently associated with heather. In Britain it is more commonly found in western parts of the country, and we have seen and photographed this orchid in West Wales and in western Scotland where Cross-leaved Heath Erica tetralix is very common.
This subspecies of Dactylorhiza maculata is more particular in its habitat requrements than Heath Spotted-orchid, which will sometimes occur on more alkaline substrates along with the Common Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza fuchsii. This territorial cross-over can create difficulty in accurate separation of Heath Spotted-orchid from Common Spotted-orchid.Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum, in contrast, occurs only on very acidic substrates so there should be no chance of it being confused with Common Spotted-orchid - although there is still the distinct possibility of confusion when trying to separate it from the more commonly-encountered Heath Spotted-orchid.
Description
The main differences between Heath Spotted-orchid and Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum are that the leaves of the latter are somewhat narrower and more sharply pointed and the flower lips are marked with dots and streaks rather than with loops.
Distribution
This orchid is reported throughout western Europe, but it is possibly more common in parts of Britain and in particular in West Wales and western Scotland.
Habitat
Peat heathland, of which there is so much in Scotland in particular, is a very good place to look for this orchid, but do beware of the midges, which reach their peak abundance at the same time as this orchid and inhabit the same places.
Flowering times
The flowering season of Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum is later in the far north of Scotland than in West Wales. In Wales it can be seen in flower from June onwards, but in Scotland a visit in late July and August is a better bet for finding this orchid.
This subspecies of Dactylorhiza maculata is more particular in its habitat requrements than Heath Spotted-orchid, which will sometimes occur on more alkaline substrates along with the Common Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza fuchsii. This territorial cross-over can create difficulty in accurate separation of Heath Spotted-orchid from Common Spotted-orchid.Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum, in contrast, occurs only on very acidic substrates so there should be no chance of it being confused with Common Spotted-orchid - although there is still the distinct possibility of confusion when trying to separate it from the more commonly-encountered Heath Spotted-orchid.
Description
The main differences between Heath Spotted-orchid and Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum are that the leaves of the latter are somewhat narrower and more sharply pointed and the flower lips are marked with dots and streaks rather than with loops.
Distribution
This orchid is reported throughout western Europe, but it is possibly more common in parts of Britain and in particular in West Wales and western Scotland.
Habitat
Peat heathland, of which there is so much in Scotland in particular, is a very good place to look for this orchid, but do beware of the midges, which reach their peak abundance at the same time as this orchid and inhabit the same places.
Flowering times
The flowering season of Dactylorhiza maculata subsp. ericetorum is later in the far north of Scotland than in West Wales. In Wales it can be seen in flower from June onwards, but in Scotland a visit in late July and August is a better bet for finding this orchid.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
The flowers of orchids (Orchidaceae) last several weeks or several months, depending on the orchid species. Tropical orchids bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from white through reds, pinks, yellows and all mixtures between. An orchid needs treatment different than other types of houseplants, but encouraging an orchid's natural blooming tendencies is not difficult once it is on a basic care routine.
Container and Potting Medium
An orchid grows well in either a clay or plastic pot. A clay pot allows easier absorption of oxygen to the plant. The hole on the pot's bottom can be enlarged to ensure adequate drainage.Orchids do not thrive in garden soil and do not bloom well when planted in an ordinary houseplant potting medium. The thick, fleshy roots of an orchid attach themselves to tree bark in the plant's natural growing environment. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and bark rather than from soil. Use a commercially prepared orchid potting medium that contains chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic rock,charcoal, peat moss, fir bark or a combination of these to ensure healthy growth and blooming(ref.1).
Light Level
The American Orchid Society identifies lack of sufficient light as the most frequent cause of an orchid's failure to bloom. Orchid leaves are light, grassy green with yellow undertones when they receive sufficient light. Dark-green leaves indicate the plant does not receive enough light. Cymbidium (Cymbidium spp.) variety orchids, which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 10 are often grown in the dappled shade of large trees.(new ref. in comments box)
An east- or south-facing window with bright filtered light provides the optimum environment for a blooming orchid. Too much direct sunlight causes burn spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can be used to create desirable shade. Move the orchid closer to or farther from the window to manipulate the amount of light the plant receives.
Air and Water
Orchid roots must have freely circulating air with gentle flowing movement. A stagnant atmosphere discourages healthy growth and bloom development. An overhead paddle fan set on the lowest speed, an open window or a slow-moving fan across the room move air sufficiently for orchid health. A fan should be directed away from the plant.
An orchid thrives with once-a-week watering, unless it dries out sooner. A plastic pot feels lighter when its potting medium is dry than when it is wet, and a clay pot feels dry to the touch when its potting medium is dry. When watering, soak the potting medium thoroughly so water runs out the bottom of the pot. Thorough soaking flushes out salts that accumulated.
Fertilizer Schedule
Most orchid species have their bloom cycles in late winter or spring. They grow and flower for fairly long periods of time without fertilizer but produce more blooms when fertilized regularly.Use a water-soluble or granulated type commercial fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. A balanced 20-20-20 formula is recommended by the American Orchid Society(ref.3). Mix 1/4 teaspoon to one gallon of room-temperature water. Moisten the surface and roots only, not the foliage. Allow the water to run through the potting material and out the drainage hole. (see new ref. in comments section) A feeding schedule of every two weeks during active growth phases and every four weeks during rest cycles. Reduce water after spring flowering until new growth appears.
Container and Potting Medium
An orchid grows well in either a clay or plastic pot. A clay pot allows easier absorption of oxygen to the plant. The hole on the pot's bottom can be enlarged to ensure adequate drainage.Orchids do not thrive in garden soil and do not bloom well when planted in an ordinary houseplant potting medium. The thick, fleshy roots of an orchid attach themselves to tree bark in the plant's natural growing environment. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and bark rather than from soil. Use a commercially prepared orchid potting medium that contains chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic rock,charcoal, peat moss, fir bark or a combination of these to ensure healthy growth and blooming(ref.1).
Light Level
The American Orchid Society identifies lack of sufficient light as the most frequent cause of an orchid's failure to bloom. Orchid leaves are light, grassy green with yellow undertones when they receive sufficient light. Dark-green leaves indicate the plant does not receive enough light. Cymbidium (Cymbidium spp.) variety orchids, which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 10 are often grown in the dappled shade of large trees.(new ref. in comments box)
An east- or south-facing window with bright filtered light provides the optimum environment for a blooming orchid. Too much direct sunlight causes burn spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can be used to create desirable shade. Move the orchid closer to or farther from the window to manipulate the amount of light the plant receives.
Air and Water
Orchid roots must have freely circulating air with gentle flowing movement. A stagnant atmosphere discourages healthy growth and bloom development. An overhead paddle fan set on the lowest speed, an open window or a slow-moving fan across the room move air sufficiently for orchid health. A fan should be directed away from the plant.
An orchid thrives with once-a-week watering, unless it dries out sooner. A plastic pot feels lighter when its potting medium is dry than when it is wet, and a clay pot feels dry to the touch when its potting medium is dry. When watering, soak the potting medium thoroughly so water runs out the bottom of the pot. Thorough soaking flushes out salts that accumulated.
Fertilizer Schedule
Most orchid species have their bloom cycles in late winter or spring. They grow and flower for fairly long periods of time without fertilizer but produce more blooms when fertilized regularly.Use a water-soluble or granulated type commercial fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. A balanced 20-20-20 formula is recommended by the American Orchid Society(ref.3). Mix 1/4 teaspoon to one gallon of room-temperature water. Moisten the surface and roots only, not the foliage. Allow the water to run through the potting material and out the drainage hole. (see new ref. in comments section) A feeding schedule of every two weeks during active growth phases and every four weeks during rest cycles. Reduce water after spring flowering until new growth appears.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
It is time to transplant your orchid when the roots are growing over the side of the pot or the lower leaves have died and weakened the center stem. The plant has either become too big for the container or the potting medium has broken down and no longer supports the plant. Always wait for an orchid to finish blooming before transplanting.
Transplanting Materials
Gather together new potting medium, hand-held pruners and a pot one size bigger than its present container. The potting medium must be fast-draining and also water-retentive. Commercial orchid potting medium contains volcanic rock, coconut fiber, tree bark, charcoal or a combination of these. Aliflor is an expanding clay medium that is often used in orchid mixes. Bark-based potting medium drains well but breaks down easily. Peat-based material retains moisture well but must be replaced yearly. Choose either clay or plastic pots for your orchid. Ensure the hand-held pruners are sterilized with alcohol before using, to prevent the spread of harmful bacteria.
Remove Orchid From Pot
Grasp the orchid plant by the main stem and gently remove it from the overturned pot. A very root-bound plant will be difficult to shake loose, and sometimes the pot needs to be broken. Remove all of the old potting medium by shaking the plant and picking the medium out from between the roots. Do not reuse any of this material in the transplant process. Gently wash off the orchid roots with water to remove fine particles. Pull off dead or weak lower leaves and pull off plant tissue at the leaf juncture. Prune all shriveled roots carefully with hand-held pruners, being careful not to cut healthy growth. Dead tissue is hollow when squeezed or wiry looking.
New Pot
Choose a plastic or clay pot that will accommodate the entire root system comfortably. Cover the bottom of the pot with a thin layer of potting mix. Place the plant in the pot with the lower leaves slightly above the rim. Place and push potting material in the spaces between the roots, pressing gently as you go. Ensure the bottom leaves remain slightly above the pot rim. Tap the pot gently to settle the materials and add more if needed to fill the space. Experienced orchid gardeners add a label to each plant indicating its name and bloom time.
Water and Ongoing Care
An orchid needs to be soaked thoroughly after it has been transplanted to a new pot. Always use tepid water and soak long enough so all the planting material is wet. Allow the pot to drain completely and empty the drip pan so the roots do not continue to absorb water through the drainage hole. Orchids are watered once a week after the transplant. Fertilize monthly with 1/2-strength commercial orchid fertilizer during summer and fall. Do not fertilize during the spring flowering cycle.
Transplanting Materials
Gather together new potting medium, hand-held pruners and a pot one size bigger than its present container. The potting medium must be fast-draining and also water-retentive. Commercial orchid potting medium contains volcanic rock, coconut fiber, tree bark, charcoal or a combination of these. Aliflor is an expanding clay medium that is often used in orchid mixes. Bark-based potting medium drains well but breaks down easily. Peat-based material retains moisture well but must be replaced yearly. Choose either clay or plastic pots for your orchid. Ensure the hand-held pruners are sterilized with alcohol before using, to prevent the spread of harmful bacteria.
Remove Orchid From Pot
Grasp the orchid plant by the main stem and gently remove it from the overturned pot. A very root-bound plant will be difficult to shake loose, and sometimes the pot needs to be broken. Remove all of the old potting medium by shaking the plant and picking the medium out from between the roots. Do not reuse any of this material in the transplant process. Gently wash off the orchid roots with water to remove fine particles. Pull off dead or weak lower leaves and pull off plant tissue at the leaf juncture. Prune all shriveled roots carefully with hand-held pruners, being careful not to cut healthy growth. Dead tissue is hollow when squeezed or wiry looking.
New Pot
Choose a plastic or clay pot that will accommodate the entire root system comfortably. Cover the bottom of the pot with a thin layer of potting mix. Place the plant in the pot with the lower leaves slightly above the rim. Place and push potting material in the spaces between the roots, pressing gently as you go. Ensure the bottom leaves remain slightly above the pot rim. Tap the pot gently to settle the materials and add more if needed to fill the space. Experienced orchid gardeners add a label to each plant indicating its name and bloom time.
Water and Ongoing Care
An orchid needs to be soaked thoroughly after it has been transplanted to a new pot. Always use tepid water and soak long enough so all the planting material is wet. Allow the pot to drain completely and empty the drip pan so the roots do not continue to absorb water through the drainage hole. Orchids are watered once a week after the transplant. Fertilize monthly with 1/2-strength commercial orchid fertilizer during summer and fall. Do not fertilize during the spring flowering cycle.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Burn spots on leaves, dark-green or weak leaves, a weak center stem and failure to bloom are all signs that an orchid (Orchidaceae) is failing to thrive. It is not yet dead, though, and can return to blooming with a correct diagnosis of its problem and a few simple steps to correct it.
Diagnose the Problem
Healthy orchid leaves are grassy green with yellow undertones. Dark-green leaves are a symptom of not enough light exposure.
White or brown dry areas on orchid leaves indicate sunburn. The sun damage is irreversible in small or large areas that turn black. Sun-damaged spots do not harm the plant's health or flowering, but continued exposure to excessive light continues the damage.
Overwatering causes root rot because the roots are not able to absorb enough oxygen when full of water. The symptoms include swollen, soft roots and wrinkled leaves. Underwatering turns roots white and makes the plant susceptible to diseases.
Brown-tipped orchid leaves and inhibited growth indicate overfertilization.
A weak center stem and wilted lower leaves may indicate the plant is simply too crowded and needs to be repotted. A pot-bound orchid also may have weak leaves, or its roots may spill over its pot's side.
Lessen Sun Damage and Overwatering
Sunburn spots are alleviated easily by reducing the amount of direct sunlight that falls onto the orchid. Orchids grow best with a south- or east-facing window exposure. Use a sheer curtain to increase shade.
Water the plant's potting medium only one time per week if root rot is the problem, and ensure the potting medium has not disintegrated. Orchids available in markets and garden centers are often grown in peat moss mixtures that disintegrate after one or two seasons. Peat moss becomes sodden and retains water easily. Water should drain quickly out of the plant container's bottom after the potting medium has been soaked thoroughly.
Feed the Plant
"Fertilize weakly, weekly" is the standard advice from many orchid growers. Revitalize an underfertilized or overfertilized plant by putting it on a healthy feeding schedule. Either commercial orchid fertilizer in granulated or liquid form, or houseplant fertilizer is beneficial. Choose a 20-20-20 formula that has little or no urea, which may attract bacterial growth. Dilute the fertilizer's label-recommended dosage to ¼ strength by mixing it with water, and use it weekly. Always fertilize after the plant's soil has been thoroughly soaked with water to avoid root burn.
Repot a Crowded Plant
A pot-bound orchid comes to life again when it is put in a larger container and given new potting material. Repotting alleviates potential disease problems and encourages healthy growth. Choose a clay or plastic container one size bigger than the present one. Ensure the container has bottom drainage holes.
Commercial growing material for orchids is either bark-based or peat moss-based. The nutrients in either of those types help to revive an orchid that is not blooming or has weak leaf development.
Shake off all the old potting material as you replant the orchid. Cut off roots that are dry and shriveled or white and swollen, leaving ones that are firm to the touch.
Diagnose the Problem
Healthy orchid leaves are grassy green with yellow undertones. Dark-green leaves are a symptom of not enough light exposure.
White or brown dry areas on orchid leaves indicate sunburn. The sun damage is irreversible in small or large areas that turn black. Sun-damaged spots do not harm the plant's health or flowering, but continued exposure to excessive light continues the damage.
Overwatering causes root rot because the roots are not able to absorb enough oxygen when full of water. The symptoms include swollen, soft roots and wrinkled leaves. Underwatering turns roots white and makes the plant susceptible to diseases.
Brown-tipped orchid leaves and inhibited growth indicate overfertilization.
A weak center stem and wilted lower leaves may indicate the plant is simply too crowded and needs to be repotted. A pot-bound orchid also may have weak leaves, or its roots may spill over its pot's side.
Lessen Sun Damage and Overwatering
Sunburn spots are alleviated easily by reducing the amount of direct sunlight that falls onto the orchid. Orchids grow best with a south- or east-facing window exposure. Use a sheer curtain to increase shade.
Water the plant's potting medium only one time per week if root rot is the problem, and ensure the potting medium has not disintegrated. Orchids available in markets and garden centers are often grown in peat moss mixtures that disintegrate after one or two seasons. Peat moss becomes sodden and retains water easily. Water should drain quickly out of the plant container's bottom after the potting medium has been soaked thoroughly.
Feed the Plant
"Fertilize weakly, weekly" is the standard advice from many orchid growers. Revitalize an underfertilized or overfertilized plant by putting it on a healthy feeding schedule. Either commercial orchid fertilizer in granulated or liquid form, or houseplant fertilizer is beneficial. Choose a 20-20-20 formula that has little or no urea, which may attract bacterial growth. Dilute the fertilizer's label-recommended dosage to ¼ strength by mixing it with water, and use it weekly. Always fertilize after the plant's soil has been thoroughly soaked with water to avoid root burn.
Repot a Crowded Plant
A pot-bound orchid comes to life again when it is put in a larger container and given new potting material. Repotting alleviates potential disease problems and encourages healthy growth. Choose a clay or plastic container one size bigger than the present one. Ensure the container has bottom drainage holes.
Commercial growing material for orchids is either bark-based or peat moss-based. The nutrients in either of those types help to revive an orchid that is not blooming or has weak leaf development.
Shake off all the old potting material as you replant the orchid. Cut off roots that are dry and shriveled or white and swollen, leaving ones that are firm to the touch.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
The orchid family (Orchidaceae) includes approximately 600 genera and about 30,000 natural species worldwide. Orchids thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 13, depending on the species, but most houseplants are tropical orchids. These exotic-looking plants have earned a reputation as being difficult to grow, but many are surprisingly easy to care for. Lighting and watering needs vary, but most orchids require fertilizer high in both potassium and calcium. Making your own orchid fertilizer from common household items is quick and easy.
Eggshells and Chicken Bones
In two vital ways, chickens provide orchids with the nutrients they need to grow. Both eggshells and chicken bones contain high amounts of the calcium and potassium that orchids crave. Wash and dry eggshells and crush them with a mortar and pestle to create fertilizer for orchids. Dried chicken bones require the same technique, but are a little more difficult to process. Once you've created the crushed mixture, sprinkle it over the orchid's bark mixture.
Don’t Throw Out Cooking Water
The cooking water from both potatoes and rice provides valuable nutrients to orchids. While rice water provides a good source of vitamin B, potato water contains calcium and potassium. Save the water from cooking potatoes and rice and store it in the fridge. Apply the water to orchids every two weeks.
Milk, Molasses and Epsom Salt
Ordinary cow's milk provides a good source of protein for your orchids, but dilute it first -- 1 part milk to 4 parts water -- or get into the habit of rinsing out your milk carton with water and using it to water your orchids every two weeks. Molasses gives your orchids a boost of potassium. Mix a teaspoon of molasses to a quart or two of water and use it when you water your orchids. Mixing a teaspoon of Epsom salt in two quarts of water gives your orchids a boost of magnesium – but use caution not to use scented Epsom salt sold as foot wash. Look for Epsom salt in the gardening section of your home improvement center.
Oak Leaves and Teabags
Oak leaves and teabags, which are high in nitrogen can be used as natural fertilizer to boost orchid growth. Oak leaves need to be brewed -- 1 part water to 2 parts leaves -- for about two weeks in the sun to create liquid fertilizer. Water your orchids with the brewed oak-leaf tea once a month. Open teabags and sprinkle the contents on the soil of your orchid plants once a month during the growing season.
Easy Does It
Orchids are light feeders and do not require frequent fertilizer. While homemade orchid fertilizers provide them with the nutrients they need to thrive, heavy applications may harm your orchids. Try one or two remedies at a time and use the health of your orchids as your guide to fertilizer application. Signs of over-fertilization include a white crust on top of the bark, leaf tips dying and roots that turn black. Always flush your pot monthly with water to remove the build up of salt from fertilizers. Homemade fertilizers may not give your orchid all the NPK nutrients it requires for proper health. If signs of poor health occur that are not from over-fertilizing, supplement with a water-soluble 20-20-20 blend, mixed at one teaspoon per gallon of water and apply monthly.
Eggshells and Chicken Bones
In two vital ways, chickens provide orchids with the nutrients they need to grow. Both eggshells and chicken bones contain high amounts of the calcium and potassium that orchids crave. Wash and dry eggshells and crush them with a mortar and pestle to create fertilizer for orchids. Dried chicken bones require the same technique, but are a little more difficult to process. Once you've created the crushed mixture, sprinkle it over the orchid's bark mixture.
Don’t Throw Out Cooking Water
The cooking water from both potatoes and rice provides valuable nutrients to orchids. While rice water provides a good source of vitamin B, potato water contains calcium and potassium. Save the water from cooking potatoes and rice and store it in the fridge. Apply the water to orchids every two weeks.
Milk, Molasses and Epsom Salt
Ordinary cow's milk provides a good source of protein for your orchids, but dilute it first -- 1 part milk to 4 parts water -- or get into the habit of rinsing out your milk carton with water and using it to water your orchids every two weeks. Molasses gives your orchids a boost of potassium. Mix a teaspoon of molasses to a quart or two of water and use it when you water your orchids. Mixing a teaspoon of Epsom salt in two quarts of water gives your orchids a boost of magnesium – but use caution not to use scented Epsom salt sold as foot wash. Look for Epsom salt in the gardening section of your home improvement center.
Oak Leaves and Teabags
Oak leaves and teabags, which are high in nitrogen can be used as natural fertilizer to boost orchid growth. Oak leaves need to be brewed -- 1 part water to 2 parts leaves -- for about two weeks in the sun to create liquid fertilizer. Water your orchids with the brewed oak-leaf tea once a month. Open teabags and sprinkle the contents on the soil of your orchid plants once a month during the growing season.
Easy Does It
Orchids are light feeders and do not require frequent fertilizer. While homemade orchid fertilizers provide them with the nutrients they need to thrive, heavy applications may harm your orchids. Try one or two remedies at a time and use the health of your orchids as your guide to fertilizer application. Signs of over-fertilization include a white crust on top of the bark, leaf tips dying and roots that turn black. Always flush your pot monthly with water to remove the build up of salt from fertilizers. Homemade fertilizers may not give your orchid all the NPK nutrients it requires for proper health. If signs of poor health occur that are not from over-fertilizing, supplement with a water-soluble 20-20-20 blend, mixed at one teaspoon per gallon of water and apply monthly.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are becoming easier to find and cheaper to buy. It is not uncommon to find them now in grocery stores and garden centers ready to take home in full bloom. After you bring it home, follow some basic steps to keep the orchid alive and healthy in your home environment.
Step 1
Place the orchid in a room with bright filtered light. If close to a window, close the curtains when the light comes in on the plant or move it to a different spot. Direct sunlight can cause damage, but inadequate light is the most common reason orchids fail to bloom. Orchids need about 10 to 15 hours of light per day, which can also be from an artificial light source. Move farther from windows in hotter summer and colder winter days. Turn the pot one-quarter turn at each watering to balance light and growth.
Step 2
Maintain the temperature in a range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures that are comfortable for people in a home are also good for orchids. Place the pot where it will have good ventilation but no cold drafts. Be aware of drafts from doors in the winter and move the plant to a more protected spot if needed. Don't keep it too warm in winter around heaters. Orchids prefer 60 F in winter and need a rest.
Step 3
Water the orchid with distilled or rain water. Orchids don't do well with hard water and minerals will build up on the potting medium. To be extra sure about purity of water, it can be boiled to sterilize and kill any fungal or bacterial contaminants. Water once per week. Touch the growing medium to see if it feels moist and water if dry. Let water drain through and out of the pot. When the orchid is blooming and actively growing, the pot can be immersed in the water for 30 minutes to allow the bark to soak up more water and then drain well. In the summer, this would be good at every other week waterings opposite feedings.
Step 4
Apply a balanced liquid all-purpose fertilizer at one-half the strength suggested on the label. Orchids growing in bark should receive a fertilizer higher in nitrogen, such as 30-10-10. Fertilize during one or two of the watering days per month. Fertilizer formulas are also available specifically for growing orchids. Orchids are epiphytic and get nutrients from the air and watering. The use of lower-strength fertilizer and allowing it to drain well prevents the buildup of salts and minerals in the medium.
Step 5
Adjust the humidity to keep it in the range of 60 to 70 percent around the plant. This can be done by placing a bowl of water next to the plant or setting the pot on a dish with water and pebbles inside. Keep the pot and aerial roots out of standing water. Green florists foam is a good choice to put in the bottom of a decorator pot and then set the orchid in its own pot on top. The foam will absorb and evaporate the excess water around the plant without standing stagnant water.
Step 6
Use a lightweight soilless potting medium that is able to hold moisture. One suggested mix is one part peat moss, one part charcoal and two parts of 1/2-inch pine bark. Many garden centers and nurseries sell orchid potting medium mixes and mesh baskets for planting orchids. A mesh pot or basket provides ventilation to prevent rot. Allow the aerial roots to hang outside the pot to prevent rot.
Step 1
Place the orchid in a room with bright filtered light. If close to a window, close the curtains when the light comes in on the plant or move it to a different spot. Direct sunlight can cause damage, but inadequate light is the most common reason orchids fail to bloom. Orchids need about 10 to 15 hours of light per day, which can also be from an artificial light source. Move farther from windows in hotter summer and colder winter days. Turn the pot one-quarter turn at each watering to balance light and growth.
Step 2
Maintain the temperature in a range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperatures that are comfortable for people in a home are also good for orchids. Place the pot where it will have good ventilation but no cold drafts. Be aware of drafts from doors in the winter and move the plant to a more protected spot if needed. Don't keep it too warm in winter around heaters. Orchids prefer 60 F in winter and need a rest.
Step 3
Water the orchid with distilled or rain water. Orchids don't do well with hard water and minerals will build up on the potting medium. To be extra sure about purity of water, it can be boiled to sterilize and kill any fungal or bacterial contaminants. Water once per week. Touch the growing medium to see if it feels moist and water if dry. Let water drain through and out of the pot. When the orchid is blooming and actively growing, the pot can be immersed in the water for 30 minutes to allow the bark to soak up more water and then drain well. In the summer, this would be good at every other week waterings opposite feedings.
Step 4
Apply a balanced liquid all-purpose fertilizer at one-half the strength suggested on the label. Orchids growing in bark should receive a fertilizer higher in nitrogen, such as 30-10-10. Fertilize during one or two of the watering days per month. Fertilizer formulas are also available specifically for growing orchids. Orchids are epiphytic and get nutrients from the air and watering. The use of lower-strength fertilizer and allowing it to drain well prevents the buildup of salts and minerals in the medium.
Step 5
Adjust the humidity to keep it in the range of 60 to 70 percent around the plant. This can be done by placing a bowl of water next to the plant or setting the pot on a dish with water and pebbles inside. Keep the pot and aerial roots out of standing water. Green florists foam is a good choice to put in the bottom of a decorator pot and then set the orchid in its own pot on top. The foam will absorb and evaporate the excess water around the plant without standing stagnant water.
Step 6
Use a lightweight soilless potting medium that is able to hold moisture. One suggested mix is one part peat moss, one part charcoal and two parts of 1/2-inch pine bark. Many garden centers and nurseries sell orchid potting medium mixes and mesh baskets for planting orchids. A mesh pot or basket provides ventilation to prevent rot. Allow the aerial roots to hang outside the pot to prevent rot.
0
0
