文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月01日
Growing Batik German iris is all about the mesmerizing color pattern on the flower petals. The royal purple flowers are streaked with irregular blotches of white (a patterning sometimes termed "broken color"). Its flowers, produced over a period of about one month, are also fragrant. Batik German iris is truly a show-stopper for the flower border.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik'
Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 24 inches in height
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time May
Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area The eastern Mediterranean
How to Grow Batik German Iris
Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level.
To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time.
This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds.
Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris.
Light
Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun.
Soil
Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage.
Water
Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established.
Fertilizer
For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence).
Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean
You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow.
Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification.
The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye.
Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa).
Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example.
Other Iris
Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier.
Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features.
Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil.
Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape
Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too.
The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
07.Dudleya
Pronunciation:
Traits: Native to the southwestern United States and Baja California, Dudleya is another species that also has a lovely flower, rosette shape, and pattern, with fleshy "petals" in green, red, purple, grey, or a mix. They are sometimes confused with Echeverias, although have completely opposite growing seasons. The white and grey varieties are often covered with a chalky powder, which can wash off or get pitted or spotted when it rains. That's why this type is best kept under a patio or pergola cover.
During the summer these succulents are dormant, and prefer to be kept dry. These easy-to-care-for plants will grow on slopes, in decomposed granite (DG), in rock gardens, and in various types of containers. Flowers emerge on long stalks in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white, and attract hummingbirds.
Try These:
Dudleya brittonii
D. cymosa
D. edulis
D. lanceolata
Chalk Live Forever: D. pulverulent
08.Echeveria
Pronunciation: ech-eh-VER-ee-a
Traits: Native to the Americas, these succulents form beautiful, intricate rosettes in a variety of colors: white, grey, green, pink, and red. Leaves are fleshy and green or grey-green
Try These:
Echeveria elegans
Echeveria imbricata
E. derenbergii
E. haageana
E. Pulvinata
09.Euphorbia
Pronunciation: yoo-FOR-bee-uh
Traits: Also known as spurge, there are more than 1,000 species in the euphorbia family. Some resemble cactus, others are globe-shaped, and some make striking accents in the garden. Probably the best-known euphorbia is the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), which can be grown into shrubs or trees in mild climates.
Try These:
Euphorbia echinus
E. burmannii
E. characias 'Humpty Dumpty'
E. grandicornis
E. ingens
E. lactea
E. horrida
E. mammilllaris
E. milii 'Crown of Thorns'
E. obesa
E. obovalifolia
E. submammilaris
E. tirucalli 'Sticks on Fire'
E. x martini
10.Graptopetalum
Pronunciation: grap-toh-PET-al-um
Traits: Native to Mexico and the southwestern United States, most of the graptopetalum species are fleshy white or light grey succulents that form beautiful rosettes. Unlike other succulents, graptopetalum can survive a freeze and can revive after being in temperatures below 20 degrees. In the garden, it is a great-performing ground cover, and also can be used in rock gardens, on rocky slopes, spilling over garden walls, or in containers or hanging planters.
Graptoverias are hybrids of graptopetalums and echeverias, some of which are similar in color and form (rosette). The most popular types are G. 'Fred Ives' and G. 'Opalina'.
Try These:
Ghost Plant: Graptopetalum paraguayense
Graptopetalum amethystinum
11.Haworthia
Pronunication: ha-WORTH-ee-a
Traits: These natives to South Africa are quite succulent and are filled with a translucent gel that resembles that produced by the Aloe vera. Depending on the type, they can vary in size, and colors range from green to brown to variegated, like the Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata). Most prefer shade or dappled sunlight and grow during the winter in mild climates. Too much water or moisture can kill them.
Try These:
Zebra Plant: Haworthia attenuata
H. angustifolia
H. batesiana
H. coarctata
H. cooperi
H. cymbiformis
H. reinwardtii
H. 'Slices'
H. tessellata
12.Kalanchoe
Pronunciation: kal-un-KOH-ee
Traits: Native to tropical America, Africa, and southeast Asia, these succulents don't tolerate frost and prefer a moist climate. Leaves can be smooth or felted (felt plant); while flowers are often showy and come in shades of yellow, red, orange, pink, and white.
Try These:
Kalanchoe thyrsiflora (Flap jack, dog tongue plant)
K. beharensis
K. blossfeldiana
K. tomentosa
13.Sedum
Pronunciation: SEE-dum
Traits: These succulents have fleshy leaves, but their size, shape, and color vary among the species. Some are bush and upright, while others are small and trailing. Flowers are small, starlike, and bloom in clusters. Sedums grow well in rock gardens, on banks, or in small areas that need texture or color. Larger species can be used as shrub-like plants.
Try These:
Sedum alboroseum 'Frosty Morn'
S. anglicum
Autumn Joy: S. herbstfreude
S. 'Blue Spruce'
Burro Tail: S. burrito
Dragon's Blood: S. 'Dragon's Blood'
S. multiceps
S. 'Vera Jameson'
S. pachyphyllum
14.Senecio
Pronunciation: sen-EE-see-oh
Traits: Native to the Americas and Mediterranean regions, Senecio comes from the daisy family. There are about 100 succulent species, including the popular blue chalk or fingers that are used for borders and edges in drought tolerant landscaping. The beautiful Fishhooks species is easy to grow, requires little water, and makes an attractive hanging plant, especially in dry climates.
Try These:
Senecio mandraliscae
Fishhook Plant, String of Fishhook, or String of Bananas: Senecio radicans
Blue Chalk Sticks or Chalk Fingers: S. serpens
Himalayan Senecio: S.talinoides spp. cylindricus
String of Pearls or Beads: S.rowleyanus
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Finncarter
2018年05月13日
Lithops Olivecea, know as the living stone has annual (white daisy) likd flowers - for up to 3 weeks. These slow growing succulents produce lovley patterns on the top. they need to be watered every 4-6 weeks. @GFinger #Lithops ##Pattern ##Livingstones #Daisy
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
A mushroom is a fleshy, spore-bearing fungus. The term is applied to stemmed varieties like the commonly cultivated white button mushroom found in grocery stores. Other types of mushrooms grow without stems or even in a wooden, leathery pattern on trees and logs. Since some mushrooms can make you violently ill when ingested, or prove fatal, those interested in using them in cooking are advised to be able to make proper field identification. When in doubt, throw it out! Learn to identify edible mushrooms.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
Morels
One of the tastiest mushrooms in North America is the morel. The three main varieties grow for a few weeks a year, in the spring, just after the first flowers bloom. Morels are identified by pits or cavities that cover the entire cap at the top of the stem. There are also spring mushrooms that exhibit a brainy, spongy cap. These are called false morels and should never be eaten since they can cause illness and death.
Golden Chanterelles
Some say this distinctive bright-yellow mushroom smells like apricot and tastes like a flower. It is found in the wilds from Alaska to Florida. Look for this mushroom to bloom at the end of winter. The cap of the golden chanterelle will be orange to yellow in color, smooth, hairless, and wavy at the edges when mature. There are two types of similar mushrooms that might fool you (and make you sick), so find a pictorial field guide to make sure you have the right one before eating it.
Black Trumpets
This summer mushroom is easy to find and identify. Look beneath oak trees primarily, but it doesn't grow on wood. If you find one, chances are there will be many more nearby. The cap spreads outward from the stem and is hollow inside, so identifying it is like looking down into a trumpet. The coloring runs the gamut from salmon to gray to black. Black trumpets work well powdered and used as flavoring.
Porcini
Referred to simply as "the king" in the United States, this mushroom can grow up to ten inches across its red-tinged dome cap, the underneath of which is spongy with no obvious gill structure. The prime harvesting season is late summer through early fall. Expect to find one by itself or in groups. The stalk is thick and white or yellowish in color. French and Italian recipes make widespread use of dried porcini.
Hen-of-the-woods
Towards the end of the mushrooming season, lucky hunters might stumble across a 40- or 50-pound fruiting hen-of-the-woods beneath an oak tree. The hen is identified by leaf-like fronds growing in overlapping patterns in a bushy structure, sort of like the tail feathers of a chicken. The fronds may be darker at the edges and the sprouting surface can be several feet across. Harvest the mushroom, chop it into whatever size pieces you like to cook with, and freeze the rest in a freezer bag for later use.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Delicate and exotic, Fritillarias may appear difficult to grow, but most Fritillaria care is simple after the large bulbs bloom. The name is derived from the Latin term for a dice-box (fritillus), and probably refers to the checkered pattern of the flowers of many species. Fritillarias are true Lilies, growing from non-tunicate bulbs. Fritillaria imperialis, also known as Crown Imperial, has the showiest flowers of the species, but some say it also has a malodorous fragrance reminiscent to that of skunk odor. These Fritillaria bulbs have nodding flowers, topped with a tuft of foliage. Another of the wildflower Fritillaria lilies is the Snakes Head, Fritillaria meleagris. This flower has a checkered or mottled pattern on the drooping blooms.
Information on the Fritillaria indicates that most are Asian or European natives; however, Fritillaria pudica is native to western North America. Information on the Fritillaria plant also describes the Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria affinis, which grows wild in southeastern Canada south to the San Francisco bay area.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unusual and hardy, Fritillaria bulbs produce best when planted in moist soil in a sunny to part shade location in the flower bed. Wildflower Fritillaria lilies are an excellent choice for the gardener who wants an out of the ordinary specimen among more common spring-blooming bulbs.
Growing Fritillaria may reach 4 feet (1.2 m) or more in spring. Use wildflower Fritillarias as specimens, in groupings or as an addition to a traditional bulb bed.
Be prepared to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive. Plant larger bulbs with the base about 5 inches (12.5 cm) below the soil surface, while smaller Fritillaria bulbs should be planted about 3 inches (7.5 cm) down. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil and keep it moist until the root system is established.
Fritillaria bulbs resist deer, squirrels and bulb digging rodents and may help protect other bulbs that are favorites of the critters.
Wildflower Fritillarias, as with other lily bulbs, like cool roots. If possible, plant a low growing ground cover to shade bulbs of the growing Fritillaria plant or mulch the plant to protect it from the summer sun.
Separate wildflower Fritillaria lilies every two years. Remove young bulblets and replant in moist, shady conditions for more of this unusual flower every year.
Information on the Fritillaria indicates that most are Asian or European natives; however, Fritillaria pudica is native to western North America. Information on the Fritillaria plant also describes the Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria affinis, which grows wild in southeastern Canada south to the San Francisco bay area.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unusual and hardy, Fritillaria bulbs produce best when planted in moist soil in a sunny to part shade location in the flower bed. Wildflower Fritillaria lilies are an excellent choice for the gardener who wants an out of the ordinary specimen among more common spring-blooming bulbs.
Growing Fritillaria may reach 4 feet (1.2 m) or more in spring. Use wildflower Fritillarias as specimens, in groupings or as an addition to a traditional bulb bed.
Be prepared to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive. Plant larger bulbs with the base about 5 inches (12.5 cm) below the soil surface, while smaller Fritillaria bulbs should be planted about 3 inches (7.5 cm) down. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil and keep it moist until the root system is established.
Fritillaria bulbs resist deer, squirrels and bulb digging rodents and may help protect other bulbs that are favorites of the critters.
Wildflower Fritillarias, as with other lily bulbs, like cool roots. If possible, plant a low growing ground cover to shade bulbs of the growing Fritillaria plant or mulch the plant to protect it from the summer sun.
Separate wildflower Fritillaria lilies every two years. Remove young bulblets and replant in moist, shady conditions for more of this unusual flower every year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cotyledon orbiculata, also known as Pig’s Ear Plant, sometimes grow in an expansive pattern, which can impede on other plants. While they don’t take up too much water, they can still steal sunlight and root space for your other flora in your arid garden. You may just want to divide your Pig’s Ear because you want to have more of them. Either way, with the right tools and environment, you can get clippings to grow so you can have multiple Cotyledons in your possession.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
This common fungal disease of tomatoes and potatoes first appears as dark brown spots on leaves. On close examination, the spots show a pattern of concentric brown rings. Spots may enlarge and merge, and the leaves will turn yellow and die. Infected plants slowly lose leaves from the bottom up as the disease progresses. Tomato plant stems may also be infected, and eventually tomato fruit will display leathery black lesions. If the disease progresses relatively slowly, gardeners can usually expect to harvest usable fruit, but the quality and yield will be reduced. When potatoes suffer from early blight, their leaves display similar black spots and the tubers become covered with brown, corky spots.
The early blight fungus overwinters in plant residues in the soil; the disease spreads rapidly in warm, humid conditions.
Prevention and Control
Grow blight-tolerant tomato varieties and purchase disease-free seeds and plants.
If space allows, rotate susceptible crops.
Destroy any volunteer potato or tomato plants that sprout in your garden, as they may already be infected.
Keep foliage as dry as possible. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering.
Keep tomato plants staked to encourage good air circulation and minimize contact between plants and soil.
Mulch tomato plants early in the season to slow the disease spread.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves. If the disease continues to spread, uproot and destroy or deeply bury the diseased plants.
After harvest, remove all potentially infected plant debris from the garden and destroy it. Compost the material only if you maintain a “hot” compost pile that will reach 150 degrees F for several days.
The early blight fungus overwinters in plant residues in the soil; the disease spreads rapidly in warm, humid conditions.
Prevention and Control
Grow blight-tolerant tomato varieties and purchase disease-free seeds and plants.
If space allows, rotate susceptible crops.
Destroy any volunteer potato or tomato plants that sprout in your garden, as they may already be infected.
Keep foliage as dry as possible. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering.
Keep tomato plants staked to encourage good air circulation and minimize contact between plants and soil.
Mulch tomato plants early in the season to slow the disease spread.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves. If the disease continues to spread, uproot and destroy or deeply bury the diseased plants.
After harvest, remove all potentially infected plant debris from the garden and destroy it. Compost the material only if you maintain a “hot” compost pile that will reach 150 degrees F for several days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees need special pruning that begins while the tree is young. Proper pruning helps establish a graceful growth pattern and prevents damage as the tree grows. Let’s find out how to prune a willow tree.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Sycamore trees (Platanus occidentalis) make handsome shade trees for large landscapes. The most striking feature of the tree is the bark that has a camouflage pattern comprised of gray-brown outer bark that peels off in patches to reveal the light gray or white wood beneath. Older trees often have solid, light gray trunks. Sycamores also go by the names buttonwood or buttonball trees. This comes from the 1-inch balls that hang from the tree all winter and fall to the ground in spring. Each ball hangs on its own stringy 3- to 6-inch twig.
Facts about the Sycamore Tree
The largest deciduous tree in the Eastern United States, sycamore trees can grow 75 to 100 feet tall with a similar spread, and even taller under ideal conditions. The trunk may be as much as 10 feet in diameter. Sycamores have strong wood with several uses, but as the tree ages, a fungus attacks and consumes the heartwood. The fungus doesn’t kill the tree, but it makes it weak and hollow. Wildlife benefit from hollow sycamore trees, using them as storage chambers for nuts, nesting sites and shelter. The enormous size of a sycamore tree makes it impractical for the average home landscape, but they make great shade trees in parks, along stream banks and in other open areas. They were once used as street trees, but they create a lot of litter and the invasive roots damage sidewalks. You may still see them along streets in older suburban neighborhoods, however. Read on to find out how to grow a sycamore tree.
Growing Sycamore Trees
Sycamore trees grow in almost any soil, but they prefer deep, rich soil that is moist but well-drained. Plant container-grown trees any time of year. Trees with balled and burlapped roots should be planted in spring or fall. Sycamore tree care is easy. Fertilize the tree every other year if it isn’t growing as fast as it should or the leaves are pale. Water young trees deeply to keep the soil from drying out. After the first couple of years, the tree withstands moderate drought. It’s best to give the soil a deep soaking when you’ve gone a month or so without a drenching rain.
Problems with Sycamore Trees
Many problems are associated with sycamore trees. It’s fairly messy, shedding a generous supply of leaves, seed balls, twigs and strips of bark. The tiny hairs on the seed balls irritate skin and can cause respiratory distress if inhaled by sensitive people. Wear a mask or respirator and gloves when removing the seeds from a seed ball. The leaves and leaf stems also have a coating of hair when they are new. The hairs shed in spring and can irritate eyes, respiratory track and skin.
A sycamore’s spreading roots often infiltrate water and sewer lines and damage sidewalks and paved areas. The trees are susceptible to several insect infestations and fungal diseases. These conditions rarely kill the tree, but often leave it looking bedraggled by the end of the season.
Facts about the Sycamore Tree
The largest deciduous tree in the Eastern United States, sycamore trees can grow 75 to 100 feet tall with a similar spread, and even taller under ideal conditions. The trunk may be as much as 10 feet in diameter. Sycamores have strong wood with several uses, but as the tree ages, a fungus attacks and consumes the heartwood. The fungus doesn’t kill the tree, but it makes it weak and hollow. Wildlife benefit from hollow sycamore trees, using them as storage chambers for nuts, nesting sites and shelter. The enormous size of a sycamore tree makes it impractical for the average home landscape, but they make great shade trees in parks, along stream banks and in other open areas. They were once used as street trees, but they create a lot of litter and the invasive roots damage sidewalks. You may still see them along streets in older suburban neighborhoods, however. Read on to find out how to grow a sycamore tree.
Growing Sycamore Trees
Sycamore trees grow in almost any soil, but they prefer deep, rich soil that is moist but well-drained. Plant container-grown trees any time of year. Trees with balled and burlapped roots should be planted in spring or fall. Sycamore tree care is easy. Fertilize the tree every other year if it isn’t growing as fast as it should or the leaves are pale. Water young trees deeply to keep the soil from drying out. After the first couple of years, the tree withstands moderate drought. It’s best to give the soil a deep soaking when you’ve gone a month or so without a drenching rain.
Problems with Sycamore Trees
Many problems are associated with sycamore trees. It’s fairly messy, shedding a generous supply of leaves, seed balls, twigs and strips of bark. The tiny hairs on the seed balls irritate skin and can cause respiratory distress if inhaled by sensitive people. Wear a mask or respirator and gloves when removing the seeds from a seed ball. The leaves and leaf stems also have a coating of hair when they are new. The hairs shed in spring and can irritate eyes, respiratory track and skin.
A sycamore’s spreading roots often infiltrate water and sewer lines and damage sidewalks and paved areas. The trees are susceptible to several insect infestations and fungal diseases. These conditions rarely kill the tree, but often leave it looking bedraggled by the end of the season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) ground cover is a petite ground-hugging perennial plant that reaches only 8 inches at maturity and spreads by underground rhizomes. It has a woody stem and four to seven leaves that are set up in a whorled pattern at the tip of the stem. Also known as creeping dogwood vine, pretty yellow flowers appear first followed by clusters of red berries that ripen midsummer. The foliage turns a beautiful burgundy red in the fall, making it a great addition to the garden for year round interest.
This showy evergreen ground cover is native to the Pacific Northwest and is particularly at home in moist soil and in shaded locations. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 through 7, you can enjoy the attractive bunchberry ground cover as it draws birds, deer and other wildlife to the area. Some people even eat the berries, which are said to taste a bit like apples.
How to Grow Bunchberry
Although bunchberry prefers shade, it will tolerate some light morning sun. If you have acidic soil, this plant will also be right at home. Be sure to add plenty of compost or peat moss to the planting area. Bunchberry dogwood plants can be propagated by seed or cuttings. Take cuttings below the ground level in mid July through August. If you choose to use seeds, they must be sown fresh in the fall or after they have had three months of cold treatment. Plant seeds 3/4 of an inch deep into the soil. Be sure the growing area is moist but also well-draining.
Caring for Bunchberry
It is important that creeping dogwood be kept moist and the soil temperature cool. This is one of the reasons why they do so well in the shade. If the soil temperature is above 65 degrees F., they can wither and die. Cover with a thick layer of pine needles or mulch for added protection and moisture retention. Caring for bunchberry is easy once they get started as long as you keep the soil moist and the plants receive plenty of shade. This ground cover has no known disease or pest problems, making it a truly easy keeper.
This showy evergreen ground cover is native to the Pacific Northwest and is particularly at home in moist soil and in shaded locations. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 through 7, you can enjoy the attractive bunchberry ground cover as it draws birds, deer and other wildlife to the area. Some people even eat the berries, which are said to taste a bit like apples.
How to Grow Bunchberry
Although bunchberry prefers shade, it will tolerate some light morning sun. If you have acidic soil, this plant will also be right at home. Be sure to add plenty of compost or peat moss to the planting area. Bunchberry dogwood plants can be propagated by seed or cuttings. Take cuttings below the ground level in mid July through August. If you choose to use seeds, they must be sown fresh in the fall or after they have had three months of cold treatment. Plant seeds 3/4 of an inch deep into the soil. Be sure the growing area is moist but also well-draining.
Caring for Bunchberry
It is important that creeping dogwood be kept moist and the soil temperature cool. This is one of the reasons why they do so well in the shade. If the soil temperature is above 65 degrees F., they can wither and die. Cover with a thick layer of pine needles or mulch for added protection and moisture retention. Caring for bunchberry is easy once they get started as long as you keep the soil moist and the plants receive plenty of shade. This ground cover has no known disease or pest problems, making it a truly easy keeper.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If there’s one thing you can count on, it’s mint. The herb is about as vigorous as a plant can get, with a hardy nature and fast growth pattern. Experts estimate that there are over 600 different types of mint. Most of us are familiar with the two most popular types — spearmint and peppermint — but you’re missing out if you don’t try some of the more unusual mint varieties. The grapefruit mint plant is just one of many varieties of this pungent herb. Let’s find out more about growing grapefruit mint plant.
Grapefruit Mint Plant Info
Grapefruit mint (Mentha x piperita ‘Grapefruit’) is a perennial in USDA zones 6-11 and will grow in full sun or partial shade. Like most mints, it’s an easy plant to grow and perfect for novice gardeners who want to start out growing a small herb garden.
The plant features slightly furry, deep green leaves with an intoxicating citrus-mint scent, and can grow 12 to 14 inches tall and 18 inches wide. It tends to be rangy and leggy unless you pinch it back to force thicker growth. In the late summer or early fall, grapefruit mint shoots up a spike in the middle covered with beautiful lavender flowers. Bees, butterflies and birds love these blooms, so this plant will bring in wildlife unless you clip off the flowers and use them in bouquets.
Growing & Care of Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Like almost every other mint variety, grapefruit mint is almost too easy to grow and propagate. Although it’s not as invasive as some of the other varieties of the herb, unless you want an entire yard filled with mint in a short number of years, it is best to place growing grapefruit mint herbs in a planter to keep the roots away from your garden soil. Place the planters in full sun, although the plant will survive if your only planting spot has a bit of shade in the afternoons. Use fresh potting soil mixed with compost for good drainage and nutrients. Herbs are very hardy in general and mint is one of the most enduring plants. Its only disease problem is rust, which is easily avoided by preventing overhead watering. Other than that, keep the soil watered on a regular basis, especially during the hottest summer months. Mulch with wood chips or organic compost, and deadhead the plant to increase foliage growth.
Propagating Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Mint can be propagated from root division or stem cuttings. Take cuttings in early spring. Remove a 3-inch section of stem with several new bud nodes. Pull off the bottom leaves and stick the stem in a glass of water. Soon, the nodes will begin to root. When you have healthy roots, you can plant it just as you would any other herb. Division is best done at the same time. Simply dig up the plant and cut it into sections with vigorous root growth and some stems.
Using Grapefruit Mint Herbs
This unusually-flavored mint adds a tangy flavor to many different foods. Snip off the top leaves, beginning with the first leaves in the season. Harvest your grapefruit mint plant throughout the growing season and it will continue to produce tasty leaves. Chop the leaves and sprinkle them in fruit salad, crush them and add them to iced tea, or freeze them in ice cube trays (with water) and add them to water after a workout. The tangy flavor will also add a special touch to fish and chicken dishes, as well as fruity desserts. Try growing grapefruit mint in containers right near the back door for the freshest tasting summer garnish. This attractive addition to your herb garden can liven up your summer meals as well as your backyard scenery.
Grapefruit Mint Plant Info
Grapefruit mint (Mentha x piperita ‘Grapefruit’) is a perennial in USDA zones 6-11 and will grow in full sun or partial shade. Like most mints, it’s an easy plant to grow and perfect for novice gardeners who want to start out growing a small herb garden.
The plant features slightly furry, deep green leaves with an intoxicating citrus-mint scent, and can grow 12 to 14 inches tall and 18 inches wide. It tends to be rangy and leggy unless you pinch it back to force thicker growth. In the late summer or early fall, grapefruit mint shoots up a spike in the middle covered with beautiful lavender flowers. Bees, butterflies and birds love these blooms, so this plant will bring in wildlife unless you clip off the flowers and use them in bouquets.
Growing & Care of Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Like almost every other mint variety, grapefruit mint is almost too easy to grow and propagate. Although it’s not as invasive as some of the other varieties of the herb, unless you want an entire yard filled with mint in a short number of years, it is best to place growing grapefruit mint herbs in a planter to keep the roots away from your garden soil. Place the planters in full sun, although the plant will survive if your only planting spot has a bit of shade in the afternoons. Use fresh potting soil mixed with compost for good drainage and nutrients. Herbs are very hardy in general and mint is one of the most enduring plants. Its only disease problem is rust, which is easily avoided by preventing overhead watering. Other than that, keep the soil watered on a regular basis, especially during the hottest summer months. Mulch with wood chips or organic compost, and deadhead the plant to increase foliage growth.
Propagating Grapefruit Mint Herbs
Mint can be propagated from root division or stem cuttings. Take cuttings in early spring. Remove a 3-inch section of stem with several new bud nodes. Pull off the bottom leaves and stick the stem in a glass of water. Soon, the nodes will begin to root. When you have healthy roots, you can plant it just as you would any other herb. Division is best done at the same time. Simply dig up the plant and cut it into sections with vigorous root growth and some stems.
Using Grapefruit Mint Herbs
This unusually-flavored mint adds a tangy flavor to many different foods. Snip off the top leaves, beginning with the first leaves in the season. Harvest your grapefruit mint plant throughout the growing season and it will continue to produce tasty leaves. Chop the leaves and sprinkle them in fruit salad, crush them and add them to iced tea, or freeze them in ice cube trays (with water) and add them to water after a workout. The tangy flavor will also add a special touch to fish and chicken dishes, as well as fruity desserts. Try growing grapefruit mint in containers right near the back door for the freshest tasting summer garnish. This attractive addition to your herb garden can liven up your summer meals as well as your backyard scenery.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fishbone cactus boasts many colorful names. Ric Rac, Zigzag and Fishbone orchid cactus are just a few of these descriptive monikers. The names refer to the alternate pattern of the leaves along a central spine that resembles a fish skeleton. This stunning plant is an epiphytic specimen that can grow in low soil situations where other organic media are present. Growing fishbone cactus is easy even for the so-called “black thumb” gardener. Bring in a fishbone cactus houseplant and enjoy the crazy zigzag pattern of its succulent foliage.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Without seeing the foliage or the plant's growth pattern, you can often identify the type of a rose (Rosa spp.) type, if not its cultivar, by examining and smelling the cut flower. Beginning with about 150 species of the genus, their descendants now number more than 14,000 varieties. Crossbreeding has produced almost infinite combinations of flower characteristics. Therefore, any gardener should be able to select a rose to grow, regardless of his climate or favorite rose attributes.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
With large paddle-shaped fleshy green leaves edged in red, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), more commonly called simply flapjack, it makes a visual splash in the garden. It grows between 10 inches and 2 feet tall in a rosette pattern with the leaves growing out of the center stalk. Flapjack grows outdoors in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 or as a houseplant. You can also treat it as an annual in cooler climates. A low-maintenance perennial succulent, flapjack needs minimal care to thrive.
Fertilize Sparingly
Fertilize flapjack two to four times per year with the first application in the spring when new growth starts. Apply the last fertilizer in the fall then stop through the winter. Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 product, to supply continuous nutrients between feedings. Use 1 tablespoon for each 1 square foot of area around each plant. For larger beds, use 1 cup per 30 for each square feet.
Water Lightly
Flapjack is a drought-tolerant succulent. Allow the soil to dry out on top between waterings. When watering, soak the soil 6 inches deep.
Container Growing
Flapjack grows well in pots, either indoors or outside. Indoors, set the bots in a bright room with indirect light, ideally in a spot between 50 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Outside, keep the pots in a sunny area of the patio or porch or set the planters in the garden.
Fertilizing Container Plants
Fertilize a container-grown flapjack every other week with 1/2 teaspoon of balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer into 1 gallon of water and use it to water the plant.
Watering Container Plant
Water a flapjack in a planter until the soil is thoroughly damp and extra water starts to leak out the drainage holes in the bottom, then wait to water until the top of the soil looks dry.
Overwintering Indoors
In USDA zones 9 and below, grow flapjack in planters outdoors in the summer and overwinter them inside. In fall, before the first freeze, move the pots to a sunny spot that stays between 50 and 60 F. Stop fertilizing for the winter and water only when the soil feels dry. In spring, after the last frost, return the container-grown flapjack outside.
Pests and Problems
Flapjack doesn't attract pests and rarely suffers from diseases and other problems.
Pruning and Trimming
This tidy succulent doesn't require any pruning or trimming during or after the growing season. The only exception is the flower stalk. After the flapjack flowers, cut out the dead flower stalk where it attaches to the main plant. Flapjack is grown as a foliage plant, and flowers only appear after three to four years, so in general you can get by without any pruning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月30日
Family - Fabaceae
Stems - To +/-2m tall, multiple from caudex, glabrous, herbaceous, erect, with "zig-zag" growth pattern near apex.
Leaves - Alternate, petiolate, even-pinnate, to +20cm long, with +/-20 leaflets. Petiole with pair of glands at base. Glands cylindrical, 2.5mm long, 2mm in diameter, brown. Leaflets glabrous, oblong to narrowly ovate, to +5cm long, -2cm broad, mucronate. Margins of leaflets ciliate and yellowish in color. Petiolules to 2.5mm long, sparse pubescent.
Inflorescence - Dense axillary racemes to 6cm long. Peduncle with black glands. Pedicels to 1.5cm long, with black glands, sparse pubescent.
Flowers - Petals 5, yellow, spreading, free, subequal, to 1.3cm long, 5mm broad, rounded at apex, glabrous, spatulate. Stamens 10, unequal. Upper 3 stamens much reduced. Lower 3 stamens to 1.2cm long. Filaments glabrous, yellow. Anthers brown, flattened to terete. Style green, 3mm long. Ovary 8mm long, densely pubescent in opposing vertical lines. Sepals 5, yellow, 5-6mm long, 3-4mm broad, acute, ciliate margined, glabrous, reflexed. Fruit a thin flat pod to +/-10 cm long, +/-1cm broad, black.
Flowering - July - August.
Habitat - Open rocky woods, thickets, wet meadows, bases of bluffs, slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is a common plant in the state. It seems to prefer a moist soil location and bright sun.
Being a perennial and having a shrubby growth habit, it seems ideal for cultivation and frequently is planted for ornamental use.
Stems - To +/-2m tall, multiple from caudex, glabrous, herbaceous, erect, with "zig-zag" growth pattern near apex.
Leaves - Alternate, petiolate, even-pinnate, to +20cm long, with +/-20 leaflets. Petiole with pair of glands at base. Glands cylindrical, 2.5mm long, 2mm in diameter, brown. Leaflets glabrous, oblong to narrowly ovate, to +5cm long, -2cm broad, mucronate. Margins of leaflets ciliate and yellowish in color. Petiolules to 2.5mm long, sparse pubescent.
Inflorescence - Dense axillary racemes to 6cm long. Peduncle with black glands. Pedicels to 1.5cm long, with black glands, sparse pubescent.
Flowers - Petals 5, yellow, spreading, free, subequal, to 1.3cm long, 5mm broad, rounded at apex, glabrous, spatulate. Stamens 10, unequal. Upper 3 stamens much reduced. Lower 3 stamens to 1.2cm long. Filaments glabrous, yellow. Anthers brown, flattened to terete. Style green, 3mm long. Ovary 8mm long, densely pubescent in opposing vertical lines. Sepals 5, yellow, 5-6mm long, 3-4mm broad, acute, ciliate margined, glabrous, reflexed. Fruit a thin flat pod to +/-10 cm long, +/-1cm broad, black.
Flowering - July - August.
Habitat - Open rocky woods, thickets, wet meadows, bases of bluffs, slopes.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is a common plant in the state. It seems to prefer a moist soil location and bright sun.
Being a perennial and having a shrubby growth habit, it seems ideal for cultivation and frequently is planted for ornamental use.
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