动态第10页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2021年12月25日

Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a type of winter squash. The fruit starts out with a light green skin, but its skin, or shell, turns beige when the squash is ready to be harvested in fall. The flesh is dense and rich-orange in color. Some people roast butternut squash and use it in soups, while others boil it, mash it, and serve it in place of mashed potatoes. This nutritious vegetable (technically a fruit) is high in vitamin A. Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time. Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma Plant Type Annual Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, well-drained Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0) Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 2 to 11 Native Area Central America, South America How to Plant Butternut Squash If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed. [图片]Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety. When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand. During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them. Butternut Squash Care Light Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated. Soil The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Water Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away. Fertilizer Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals. Temperature and Humidity Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade. Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar. Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior. In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly. [图片]Harvesting Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity: Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity. The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine). Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound. How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers. To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other. Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed. If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.

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Miss Chen

2021年12月23日

Butterfly weed is a must-have plant for gardeners looking to coax the namesake winged insects into the garden. This clump-forming perennial grows from tuberous roots to a height of 1 to 2 feet and is characterized by glossy-green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms that are rich with nectar and pollen. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is generally planted in late spring after the soil is workable. It is fairly slow to become established and may take as much as three years before it flowers. When it finally does flower, its clusters of bright orange-yellow flowers will display from late spring until late summer. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it does produce the characteristic seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind. Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets. Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa Family Asclepiadaceae Plant type Herbaceous perennial Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide Sun exposure Full Soil type Dry, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) Bloom time Summer Flower color Orange, yellow Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA) Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.) Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans Butterfly Weed Care Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions. [图片]Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes. Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely. Light If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too. Soil Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates. Temperature and Humidity Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture. Fertilizer Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms. Types of Butterfly Weed There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations: 'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers. 'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers. ‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S. Pruning Butterfly Weed Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring. How to Propagate Butterfly Weed Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it: In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot, Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections. Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind. How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you. Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead. Overwintering Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot. Common Pests and Plant Diseases In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal. The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide. How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play. It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming. Common Problems With Butterfly Weed Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed. Self-Seeding The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots. Rabbit Damage Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.

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Miss Chen

2021年12月21日

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Miss Chen

2021年12月19日

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Miss Chen

2021年12月17日

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Miss Chen

2021年12月15日

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Miss Chen

2021年12月13日

The adjective that is most often used to describe bur oak is “majestic” and it fits. This long-lived native oak reaches a height and spread of up to 90 feet, hence it is not the tree that you would want to plant in your average urban back yard. But if you have space, it is an excellent shade tree for a sprawling landscape. The fall foliage of bur oak is unremarkable, but the tree makes up for it with its deeply ridged bark and corky twigs that stand out, especially during the winter. The gray bark has deep furrows and grooves that become more distinct as the tree ages. Bur oaks are long-lived; some specimens are estimated to be 300 years old. Landscape architects value bur oak as a shade tree because of its symmetrical canopy. It’s also very tough. Bur oak is not affected by air pollution, it adapts to all kinds of soils, even compacted types with poor drainage, and it is drought-tolerant. [图片]In common with all oaks, the bur oak has acorns—whose bur-like covers gave the tree its name. The large acorns attract wildlife who cart them off and gobble them up. Blue jays, deer, squirrels, and other small mammals eat the acorns, and the acorns taste better to wildlife than those from red oaks because they contain less tannin making them less bitter. Botanical Name Quercus macrocarpa Common Name Bur oak, mossycup oak Plant Type Deciduous tree Mature Size 70 to 90 height, 60 to 90 feet width Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, silt, clay, loamy Soil pH 5.5 to 7.5 Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Inconspicuous Hardiness Zones 3-8 Native Area North America Bur Oak Care The most important thing to successfully grow bur oak is to make sure that there is sufficient space, both for the tree’s significant height and width and for the roots. Bur oaks have a deep taproot and their expansive roots grow more deep than wide. Though they are as a result of their wide roots less likely to damage sidewalks, it's still possible because the absorbing roots occur in the top 12" of soil. Another important consideration when choosing a location for a bur oak is that while the tree is tough, it does not tolerate salt spray well. For that reason, it should not be planted next to a road or driveway with winter maintenance. Light Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light. Soil The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage. Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season. Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH. Water A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system. Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil. Temperature and Humidity Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species. Fertilizer If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree. Propagating Bur Oak If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns. Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet. Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one. Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot. Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out. Light Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light. Soil The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage. Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season. Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH. Water A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system. Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil. Temperature and Humidity Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species. Fertilizer If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree. [图片]Propagating Bur Oak If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns. Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet. Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one. Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot. Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out.

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Miss Chen

2021年12月11日

The bunny ear cactus (Opuntia microdasys) is a popular houseplant that is not only attractive but is also low-maintenance. Native to Mexico, Opuntia microdasys is known by several common names including bunny ear cactus, angel’s wings cactus, and polka dot cactus. But don’t be fooled by these cute nicknames, while the bunny ear cactus might look less threatening than other cacti varieties with large and intimidating spikes, this cactus is just as prickly. Each white “dot” on the surface of the bunny ear cactus is actually a glochid, which are patches of hundreds of small spines that can easily dislodge in the skin. Thus, take care when handling a bunny ear cactus, and use protective gloves if necessary. However, before you get your heart set on obtaining one, we hate to be the bearer of bad news: it's nearly impossible to find an actual plant for purchase. Botanical Name Opuntia microdasys Common Name Bunny ear cactus, angel's wings cactus, polka dot cactus Plant Type Cactus Mature Size 2-3 ft. tall, 4-5 ft. spread Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, well-draining Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, white Hardiness Zones 9a, 9b, 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b Native Area Mexico Bunny Ear Cactus Care This cactus is easy to care for and thrives on neglect. The most important factor in keeping the bunny ear cactus happy and thriving is ensuring that it has enough sunlight and does not get overwatered. [图片]Light The bunny ear cactus requires consistent bright, direct sunlight and when grown as a houseplant, it should be placed in the sunniest spot in your home. Ideally, this cactus should receive between six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. When grown indoors, this usually means that it should be placed in a south or west-facing window, or you can use a grow light to provide supplemental light. When grown outdoors, ensure that the cactus is not planted in a location that is not shaded. Soil Like most cacti, the bunny ear cactus prefers dry, sandy, well-draining soils. A standard cactus or succulent potting mix is sufficient and can be easily found at most nurseries or garden centers. Alternatively, you can make your own potting mix at home by mixing equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite. Water This desert dweller is drought-tolerant and does not require frequent watering in order to survive. In fact, the bunny ear cactus is actually extremely sensitive to overwatering and prone to root rot if it is exposed to too much moisture. Allow the soil to dry out thoroughly between watering, and when in doubt, wait a bit longer before you water again. Remember that in the desert, cacti can survive weeks, sometimes even months, without water. Temperature and Humidity The bunny ear cactus requires warm, dry conditions and does not tolerate frost or excess humidity. Keep temperatures between 70 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 37 degrees Celsius) and avoid excess moisture by ensuring that the potting mix is well-draining and the potting container has drainage holes. This cactus can be grown outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9a to 11b, but otherwise should be overwintered indoors to avoid damage from cold temperatures. [图片]Fertilizer This cactus grows well in poor quality soils and does not require regular fertilization. However, it can benefit from a yearly application of a cactus or succulent fertilizer in the early spring to help boost growth during the active growing period. Propagating the Bunny Ear Cactus Like most cacti, the bunny ear cactus can be readily propagated by cuttings. Simply remove one of the pads from the cactus and set it aside for 24 hours so that the base of the pad can callous over. Then, pot the pad in a container filled with a well-draining potting mix and place it in a location that receives a couple hours of direct sunlight each day. Wait to water the new plant until a few weeks have passed to ensure that roots have begun to sprout. Potting and Repotting the Bunny Ear Cactus The bunny ears cactus should be repotted every two to three years. To repot this cactus safely, ensure that you have access to a pair of thick gardening or work gloves to protect yourself from the sharp bristles. You can also use tongs to ensure that you don’t touch the cactus yourself. Using the gloves or tongs to hold the cactus in place, gently wiggle the root ball out of the old pot and remove as much of the old soil from around the roots as you can. Then, transfer the cactus into the new pot, adding the fresh soil around the roots and patting it firmly into place. Common Pests and Diseases The bunny ear cactus can be occasionally bothered by common pests such as mealybugs or scale, but are otherwise fairly pest-free. Both of these sap-sucking pests can be treated with regular applications of rubbing alcohol with a Q-tip or cotton swab to the affected areas. The most common disease to watch out for is root rot which results from overwatering or excess moisture and can be identified by brown mushy stems or roots. Unfortunately, once root rot is found it is usually too late to do anything about it. However, you can remove the unaffected pads and propagate them to save the remaining portions of the plant.

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Miss Chen

2021年12月09日

You might also know Common Cattails (Typha latifolia) as bulrushes. These perennial aquatic plants are widely associated with growing in shallow waters in boggy marshes and wetland areas across temperate regions in North America. Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps. Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail! [图片]Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas. Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel. In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form. It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers. Botanical Name Typha latifolia Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade Soil Type Moist Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Brown Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere Cattail Plant Care With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive. Light Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade. Soil These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types. Water As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep. [图片]Temperature and Humidity Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions. Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state. Fertilizer Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended. Propagating Cattail Plants Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached. How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v

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Miss Chen

2021年12月07日

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