动态第17页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2021年08月08日

Flowering ornamentals are a reminder of a new spring for so many, and Magnolias are some of the best reminders of the new season that we have. Among a genus that is known for its beauty, some species can take your breath away and others just make you want to breathe it all in. The stunning Japanese native, Anise Magnolia, dazzles your eyes with white, delicate, star-like blossoms that are pre-cursors to the leaves of this deciduous magnolia. The flowers themselves provide enough of a wow factor, but as you come within range of the aroma, you will be surrounded by the mixture of an anise-lemon smell that is intoxicating. Even the bark will provide you with the fragrance when scratched. [图片]To identify anise magnolia, besides the aroma, you can look for the blooms. The flowers are six-sided “petals” called tepals, with a hint of pink at the base. Its flowers blossom from bare branches in the early spring before the leaves unfurl. The leaves are thin and willow-like, which is where the plant gets its botanical name. Salicifolia is a Latin word meaning willow-leafed. The leaves are unlike most other magnolias, so this is another easy way to identify the tree beside the aroma. In the late summer, it bears fruits which are interesting to look at even before they ripen to startling red seed pods. They contrast with the dark green of the tree’s leaves. Later, In the fall the leaves turn a shocking golden-yellow before they are shed in the cooler weather. This is when the warming scents of lemon are given off by a scratch and sniff session on the aromatic bark, now unhindered by foliage. Botanical Name Magnolia salicifolia Common Name Anise magnolia, Willow Leaf Magnolia Plant Type Tree Mature Size 20-30 feet Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part shade Soil Type Moist,Well Drained Soil pH 4.5 -6.5 Bloom Time Early Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 4b-9a Native Range Japan Anise Magnolia Care Anise magnolia are relatively easy to grow trees. The biggest concern is finding a suitable place that is somewhat shielded from wind and with moist soil that has adequate drainage. Also, it is a very ornamental tree so consider giving it a spot of prominence that can be seen, admired, and inhaled. Once the perfect spot is selected, you are ready to get your hands dirty and get to planting. The first thing you will do is dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s root ball, or container, and just as deep. Gently remove the tree from its burlap or container and set it in the hole making sure to keep it in an upright position as you fill the hole and compress the soil. Lightly mulch to a depth of three inches to the dripline of the tree making sure that no mulch touches the trunk of the tree. If the tree is far from a water source, make a berm around the mulch to retain water and moisture, and soak the tree thoroughly. Water your magnolia regularly for the first year, until established. Light Your anise magnolia can handle full sun if it is watered regularly or is in an area with rich moist soil. If it does not have particularly moist soil, aim to plant it in a spot that gets part shade. Soil The soil you use to plant your magnolia is going to be vital to its success and its best to test it for drainage ability. Dig a hole 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but, this time, see how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil, the water will go down at a rate of about one inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions. A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a yellow flag that you may need to improve drainage with amendments, plant in a bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet soil conditions. Acidic soil is best, but that can be handled later with amendments if your soil is not up to par. But testing the soil before planting, so you are ahead of the game, might not be a bad idea. Water During the first year or so, water your magnolia regularly as it becomes established. After the tree has become established, it should not need extra watering unless your area is experiencing drought conditions or is especially arid. [图片]Temperature and Humidity Anise magnolias do not do well in particularly cold or hot weather. They are frost hardy but do not like extremes. In summer temperatures they enjoy consistently moist soil, so they thrive with the occasional rainstorm. Fertilizer Fertilize Anise in late winter or early spring with a slow-release shrub or tree food that contains sulfur and iron. A second application can be given in late summer. The anise magnolia is not toxic. The dish has fallen out of favor, but during the colonial era the petals of the magnolia flowers were once eaten. They have a very strong flavor and taste much like they smell. The preparation was to dilute the flavor by pickling the petals in a brine that was much like a sweet and sour pickle brine. The dried leaves of the magnolia were also commonly used much like the bay leaf to flavor soups, stews, and sauces. Varieties of Anise Magnolia The anise magnolia is available in several cultivars and has been used to parent many hybrid magnolias, most famously Magnolia x kewensis ‘Wada’s Memory’. If lemon and anise are not your favorite scent and you prefer orange blossom, then the hybrid might be for you. The flowers are different as well, being larger, more profuse, and having a tulip shape.

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Miss Chen

2021年08月06日

'Angelina' stonecrop (Sedum rupestre 'Angelina') is a perennial, evergreen plant with succulent foliage that forms a low-growing mat. The name "stonecrop" comes from Middle English and refers to the plant's ability to grow in rocky, gravelly areas. The 'Angelina' cultivar of S. rupestre features chartreuse or golden needle-like foliage, depending on how much sun it gets (more sun results in more golden leaves). It sports tiny yellow flowers throughout the summer. And in the fall, the foliage takes on an orange or rust tone. Sunshine and good drainage are key to this plant's success. Because of its chartreuse or golden color, it looks especially good when combined with plants that have dark foliage. Mass the plants together for use as a ground cover or perennial border. 'Angelina' also makes for a nice rock garden plant and can be placed between stones in a retaining wall. It can also be planted in patio containers and hanging baskets. 'Angelina' is generally planted in the spring, but this tough plant can really be planted almost any time. It has a moderately fast growth rate, but it may take a year or two before it flowers. [图片]Botanical Name Sedum rupestre 'Angelina' Common Name Angelina stonecrop Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 4–6 inches tall, 1– 3-feet wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Average, dry to medium moisture, well-draining Soil pH 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (USDA) Native Area Europe, Asia 'Angelina' Stonecrop Care Ideally, you should plant 'Angelina' in a full-sun location, in dry to medium-moisture soil that is well-drained. The plant has a good tolerance for gravelly or sandy soils. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread. 'Angelina' stonecrop is a fast-growing ground cover that stays short (around 6 inches tall) and quickly spreads to form a mat. Once established, this plant requires little in the way of watering or feeding. Just make sure it doesn't sit in soggy soil. Like most stonecrops, 'Angelina' is relatively free of pest and disease problems, although slugs and snails may eat the foliage. Scale insects also sometimes appear. Light Grow 'Angelina' stonecrop in full sun if possible, though it will tolerate some shade. Its golden foliage will show best color if it is grown full sun. Soil This plant prefers a well-draining soil with a neutral pH. It does well in sandy and gravelly soils that aren’t very fertile. Its roots are shallow, but they’re able to spread through small crevices in rocky terrain. Water 'Angelina' needs regular watering after you first plant it. But it is a drought-tolerant ground cover once established. Heavy clay soil or other waterlogged sites can kill the plant. However, plants grown in a container might need more frequent waterings than those planted in the ground. Temperature and Humidity Suitable for USDA zones 5 to 8, 'Angelina' stonecrop is somewhat tolerant to cold weather during the growing season. It can handle temperatures several degrees below freezing and still bounce back just fine. It also tolerates high heat and humidity well, as long as it’s not stuck in standing water. Fertilizer Stonecrop plants generally prefer lean soil, so fertilizer usually won't be necessary for this plant. Chemical fertilizer can cause 'Angelina' to stretch and flop. If your soil is lacking nutrients, consider using compost instead of chemical fertilizer Related Stonecrop Varieties There are several other varieties of stonecrop that are easy to grow in the garden: Dragon's Blood sedum (Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'): This is another good groundcover plant, growing 3 to 5 inches tall with plentiful rose-red flowers. Blue spruce stonecrop: (Sedum 'Blue Spruce'): This cultivar has bluish foliage that grows around 6 to 9 inches tall with a 1- to 1 1/2-foot spread. Small, star-shaped, yellow flowers emerge in June and July. It adapts to many soil conditions, as long as there is good drainage. Purple emperor stonecrop (Sedum 'Purple Emperor’): This is a hybrid stonecrop with dark purple foliage. It grows upright at a little more than 1 foot in height and spread. And it sports tiny masses of pinkish-purple flowers from around July to September. Autumn joy stonecrop (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude'): This stonecrop—no longer classified in the Sedum genus—also grows in average, well-draining soil with dry to medium moisture. It reaches around 18 to 24 inches in height and spread. And it features fall blooms that start out pink and gradually turn to a rose red. Propagating 'Angelina' Stonecrop 'Angelina' stonecrop plants are easy to propagate by rooting. In fact, stems that break off from the main plant fall to the ground often root all by themselves. If you're looking for a plant that's well-behaved and doesn't spread into neighboring garden areas, this might not be the best choice for you. To purposely propagate' Angelina', snip off a piece of stem 2 to 5 inches. Then, plant it in a well-draining potting mix and keep the soil moist while you’re waiting for roots to take hold. After around two to three weeks, you should feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, meaning it has rooted. At this point, it’s ready for planting in the garden. Propagating with this method usually is successful at any point during the growing season, thanks to the plant's hardiness, but it's best done in late spring or early summer. [图片]Pruning Most gardeners prune 'Angelina' stonecrop plants only if they feel the plants have become too large. Using hand pruners, simply trim off any overgrown stems from where you don’t want them to shape the plant. Also, remove any dead or diseased material whenever you spot it. Pruning typically can be done at any time of year without harming the plant. But as a precaution, avoid pruning during extreme hot or cold temperatures. Furthermore, your plant might not bloom during its first year. But whenever it does bloom, it will produce clusters of star-shaped yellow flowers on tall stalks. These yellow flower clusters, which arise in the summer, are reasonably attractive. However, some gardeners find the flower stalks to be awkwardly tall. And once the blooms fade, you are left with rather ugly brown stalks, which you can prune whenever you like.

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Miss Chen

2021年08月04日

Angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), which also goes by the common name of pricklyburr, is a perennial flower that is native to warm climates. In cooler climates, it’s often grown as an annual. The plant has a small, shrub-like appearance, growing wider than it is tall. It features dark green, oval leaves that can reach up to 8 inches long and have a soft texture. And it blooms sporadically with fragrant, upward-facing, trumpet-shaped flowers in the summer and fall that can grow up to 7 inches long and 4 inches at their widest part. The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate. Botanical Name Datura inoxia Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Loamy, well-drained Soil pH Neutral, alkaline Bloom Time Summer, fall Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA) Native Area North America, Central America, South America Toxicity Toxic to people and animals Angel's Trumpet Care Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet. There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them. Light Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers. [图片]Soil The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine. Water This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out. Temperature and Humidity Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring. Fertilizer If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial. [图片]Angel's Trumpet Varieties There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including: Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant. Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods. Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.

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Miss Chen

2021年08月01日

The common name "anemone" is a collective label used for a number of different species in the Anemone genus of plants. Many gardeners know the plants as windflowers, so named because the delicate poppy-like flowers sway in the lightest breezes. (The Greek word "anemos" translates as "wind.") Gardeners who love the look of the exotic Himalayan blue poppy but are unsuccessful in growing it should try the much more forgiving anemone flower. The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum. [图片]The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus. Botanical Name Anemone spp. Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety) Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Rich, moist soil Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species Bloom Time Spring, fall Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets How to Grow Anemones Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers. [图片]Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting. Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level. Light Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade. Soil Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil. Water Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall. Temperature and Humidity The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees. Fertilizer If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost. Pruning The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up. Propagating Anemones Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter. Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting. [图片]Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more. Varieties of Anemone There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from: Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower. Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10. Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8. Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8. Landscape Uses Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants. Common Pests/ Diseases Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes. A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious. [图片]Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月31日

Wisteria is known for its enchanting cascades of purple-blue blooms. Chinese wisteria is often seen sprawling over archways or pergolas, but this variety can be invasive and aggressive. However, there is another non-invasive and less aggressive variety: American wisteria. Native to North America, this variety (Wisteria frutescens) can still reach up to 30 feet in height and width, showering any nearby structure in clusters of mesmerizing blue flowers. However, you may have to wait five or six years for the vine to mature and produce flowers. It has pinnate, shiny, dark leaves and pea-like flowers that hang in clusters about 5 to 6 inches long. After flowering, American wisteria creates smooth, bean-like seed pods. [图片]With a more controlled manner of growing, American wisteria offers the perfect solution for many who long for this plant's stunning flowers in their own garden. Botanical Name Wisteria frutescens Common Name American wisteria Plant Type Vine Mature Size 20 to 30 ft. long Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color Blue, purple, white Hardiness Zones 5 to 9, USA Native Area North America Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets American Wisteria Care The beauty of this vine is in its abundant foliage and rapid growth. However, since it can grow to huge proportions, a strong structure is needed to offer support. Archways, arbors, fences, or trellises make perfect options. Although it may be tempting to let the vine crawl up the side of your home, it can become very heavy and eventually cause damage. While not considered invasive, this plant's fast-growing nature means it may be better if grown in an isolated area. Otherwise, it may choke out neighboring plants. Regular pruning can encourage more flowering, which may easily stretch from spring into the summer. This is another advantage of American wisteria, as its Chinese cousin only blooms once in the spring. American wisteria is deer-resistant and flood-resistant. Light American wisteria loves the sunshine and grows best in full sun. It can be grown in partial shade, but these conditions may not allow the plant to bloom as profusely. Plenty of sunlight is essential for healthy flowering. Soil Rich, moist, well-draining soil is ideal for this vine. Acidic to neutral pH levels are best. Soil that is too alkaline can cause these plants to become chlorotic, which means the leaves do not produce enough chlorophyll. The leaves will lose their green color and turn a dull shade of yellow. Water American wisteria is naturally found in moist areas by rivers, swamps, or flood plains. Therefore, this vine thrives on consistent moisture. Maintain a regular watering schedule, especially during hot summers when soil may dry out more quickly. Temperature and Humidity American wisteria plants prefer moderate moisture levels but can tolerate high levels of moisture and humidity. It does best in moderate climates, as indicated by its suitability for USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9. Fertilizer Adding fertilizer will encourage blooming, which may take up to five or more years to occur. Be sure that your fertilizer contains a good amount of phosphorus, as this will help encourage blooming. Beware of fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. American Wisteria Varieties 'Nivea': This variety produces short clusters of white flowers. Its main bloom appears in the summer, but this vine is known to sporadically bloom afterward. 'Amethyst Falls': As suggested by the name, Amethyst Falls produces beautiful purple flowers with a light fragrance. This variety blooms at a younger age, making it a good choice if you're in a hurry for a flowering wisteria plant. 'Alba': Another variety with white blooms, Alba produces large white flowers in short, full clusters. Pruning American Wisteria This plant only flowers on wood that was produced the previous growing season (one-year-old wood). It's thinner, lighter in color, and more flexible than older wood. Be careful not to remove all the flowering wood when pruning. Regular pruning is key to keeping your large vine full of blooms. Prune the vine twice each year: once before the plant leafs out in the spring, and again just after flowers fade. After blooming in the summer, cut back that year’s growth to around 6 inches. This will help control the vine’s growth, as well as encourage thick blooming. Propagating American Wisteria Using cuttings is the best way to propagate wisteria. Seeds can also be used, but these take years to mature and flower which makes cuttings the quickest and most ideal way. [图片]Be sure to take cuttings from softwood, which is wood that is still green and has not developed woody bark. Annual pruning is a perfect time to propagate. Instead of tossing pruned stems, you can propagate a new plant with them. Using a sharp pair of garden snips, trim a softwood cutting about 3 to 6 inches long with healthy leaves. Remove any leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Remove any flower buds. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and bury it in moist potting soil. To hold in moisture, place a plastic bag over the cutting, propping it up with stakes or sticks. Place in bright, indirect light. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Roots should form in about a month. Remove the bag and keep your cutting in a sunny area before transitioning it to a new planting location.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月29日

Persimmons are small, bright orange fruit with an unusually vibrant flavor when ripe—when unripe they are usually very sour and almost inedible. The most common cultivated variety is the Japanese or Asian persimmon (Diospyros kaki), and China produces about 80 percent of the world's commercial persimmon crop. They are cultivated in the United States, but only in the warmest states (California, Florida, and Texas). American persimmons (Diospyros virginiana) are native to Eastern North America, and while they are not nearly as widely cultivated and not yet considered a commercial crop, they are much more cold-hardy than the larger Asian persimmons. This makes them the ideal choice for amateur enthusiasts to try planting in their yard in spring after any frost has passed. The American persimmon is the focus here. These trees are rather slow-growing and it can take seven to 10 years for them to be fruit-bearing. When ripe, the fruit has what can be described as a custard-like texture and the sweet flavor is often said to remind people of honey. This deciduous tree has blue-green leaves that turn yellow and orange in autumn. [图片]Botanical Name Diospyros virginiana Common Name American persimmon Plant Type Deciduous tree Mature Size 35 to 50 feet Sun Exposure Full sun, afternoon shade Soil Type Tolerant of all soils except salt, loam preferred Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 Bloom Time Late spring Flower Color White or pink Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA) Native Areas Eastern North America How to Plant Persimmon Trees Choose a site with ample sun and well-drained soil. American persimmons can grow very tall (up to 50 feet!), so make sure they have plenty of room to spread. These trees have a strong taproot that can go quite deep, so this needs to be taken into consideration—this is why persimmons won't grow well in containers. Persimmon Tree Care Light As with most fruit trees, full sun is best for growing persimmons. Some afternoon shade is all right. Be aware of shifting light patterns through the seasons, bearing in mind that persimmons ripen in late autumn. Soil Persimmons like slightly acidic and loamy soils but are adaptable to a wide range of conditions. They do not do well in salty soils. As with any fruit tree, choose a site with good drainage to prevent root rot and fungus problems. Water Once established, persimmon trees should not need extra watering, except during an exceptionally dry season. During a drought, water once weekly, deeply at the roots. They do need regular watering after being planted or transplanted. Temperature and Humidity American Persimmons are hardy to USDA zone 4, and thus can withstand harsh winter conditions and temperatures to -25F. They like some air circulation, but take care not to plant them where they will be too vulnerable to winter winds. They can also handle warm temperatures, up to Zone 9. They're not as likely to fruit in desert climates but do best in areas where deciduous trees proliferate and like a moderate amount of humidity. Fertilizer Persimmons like loamy soil but are generally happy without extra fertilizer. If your soil is not very rich, add some good soil amendments when planting your persimmon tree to give it a healthy start. American Persimmon Varieties There are a variety of persimmon cultivars available, categorized as "astringent" and "non-astringent" which affect when they can be eaten. An astringent cultivar must be soft before it can be eaten, but a non-astringent cultivar may be eaten crisp like an apple. However, all American persimmon cultivars, unlike the Asian persimmon, are classified as astringent. [图片]The Asian persimmon has a very wide range of cultivars. When it comes to the American persimmon, because it isn't widely cultivated, there is a much more limited selection and often they will be sold under the general name with no information about the type of cultivar. If you are looking for something specific, it would be best to seek out a specialist nursery. Some of the more readily available cultivars known for large, tasty fruit include Claypool, Dollywood, and Early Golden. Harvesting Because of their pungent astringency, it is important to let American persimmons ripen fully before picking. They also continue to ripen after they are picked. It is best to allow them to become fully soft to appreciate their full sweet taste. The fruits ripen in late autumn and may remain on the tree into winter, providing a sweet treat for lucky birds and other wildlife. While the fruit looks large for a berry, that is, in fact, its morphological form (similar to a tomato). Pruning American persimmon trees should be well-pruned in the early years to give them a strong main branch structure. The fruits can grow heavy at the tips of branches when the fruit clusters mature and may break branches. Regular pruning helps keep the tree strong and healthy. In maturity, prune any dead branches. Persimmons respond well to pruning and may be pruned into hedges or even espalier forms. Common Pests & Diseases Persimmons are generally free from pests and diseases, but mealybugs or other pests associated with ants may become a problem. Treat with organic methods to protect the fruit.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月27日

The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a deciduous shrub that comes from North America. It is also known as the pie elder, American elder, black elderberry, elder-blow, sweet elder, or just elderberry. In late June, this fast-growing plant is covered with clusters of tiny white flowers that are followed by purplish-black fruit. The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring. Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis Common Name American Elderberry Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 10–15 feet Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 3–10 Native Area North America Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked American Elderberry Care American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul. [图片]American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks. Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below. Light Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade. Soil The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil. Water Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged. Temperature and Humidity American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost. Fertilizer Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime. American Elderberry Varieties 'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black 'Variegata': for foliage with variegation 'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves 'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit Pruning This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case. You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub. Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky. Propagating American Elderberries Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade. Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately. Potting and Repotting American Elderberries Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out. Common Pests/Diseases Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed. [图片]You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches. Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月25日

There are many types of alliums (or "flowering onions," as they are sometimes called), which come in various heights and with flower heads of various sizes. Ambassador allium is a type that is valued for being tall and for bearing large, globe-shaped flower heads. While they are related to such better-known plants as onions and garlic, flowering onions serve ornamental purposes. 'Ambassador' is one of the showiest; it adds great color to the late-spring bulb garden. [图片]Botanical Name Allium 'Ambassador' Common Name Ambassador allium, Ambassador flowering onion Plant Type Bulb plant Mature Size 46 inches tall Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time May to June Flower Color Light purple Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 Native Area Northern Hemisphere Ambassador Allium Care Plant spring-flowering bulbs such as alliums in fall. The colder your climate, the earlier in autumn you should plant them. Thus gardeners living in hardiness zone 5 should plant in October, while, at the opposite end of the spectrum, you should wait until December to plant the bulbs if you live in zone 8. How deep you should plant the bulbs is information that is usually provided on the packaging. But if it is not, there is a rule of thumb to remember. Measure the diameter of the bulb and multiply that number by 3. That is your planting depth. Water in the bulbs after planting them. You may have to kill slugs and snails to grow Ambassador allium successfully. Leaf miners can also be a problem. But unlike with crocus bulbs, for example, you will not have to worry about rodents. It is also a deer-resistant plant. As always with spring bulb plants, leave the foliage alone after blooming is finished. No matter how ratty it looks, resist the temptation to cut it off. It is better for the plant's nutrition to let it die back naturally. Until it does so, furnish it with water during dry spells. To propagate, divide the bulbs in spring or fall. Light For optimal flowering, grow Ambassador allium in full sun. Soil Grow Ambassador allium in well-drained soil. In terms of soil pH, it prefers somewhat acidic ground, but it tolerates a neutral pH. Water Keep the soil around your Ambassador allium evenly moist. But, once mature, it is a relatively drought-tolerant perennial. Fertilizer Fertilize it with compost. Is Ambassador Allium Toxic? Plants in the Allium genus are poisonous to pets. If you have a cat that goes outdoors, for example, erect a fence around the part of the garden where you are growing Ambassador allium so that your cat cannot access the plant. Alliums are poisonous plants for dogs, as well. Pets can become deathly ill from eating the seeds. What Makes Ambassador Allium Special You will hear some specialized terms when reading about flowering onions (although they are not unique to the Allium genus). Two of them are: "Umbel" "Scape" According to etymonline.com, "umbel" and "umbrella" ultimately derive from the same Latin word. This fact makes it easier for beginners to remember that an umbel is a flower head composed of numerous short flower stalks fanning out from a central point (rather like the ribs of an umbrella). Meanwhile, a "scape" is a long, bare stalk that supports a flower (as opposed to a flower stalk that bears leaves somewhere between the ground and the flower). [图片]The 'Ambassador' cultivar stands out in two ways: It bears a big umbel (often 7 inches across) that is perfectly round and densely packed with tiny, star-shaped, light-purple flowers. While not the biggest of flower heads among the flowering onions (that of Allium schubertii, for example, is bigger), its size combined with its density makes it an impressive sight. It is one of the tallest flowering onions (the tallest examples may stand 46 inches tall). In fact, due to the height of its scape, some refer to it as a "giant" allium. This scape is very sturdy, making it good for floral arrangements. Grown in USDA zone 5, Ambassador allium will begin blooming the third week in May and continue blooming until the second week in June. The plant becomes dormant in summer. Even after flowering has ended, an attractive dried seed head remains behind to offer visual interest in early summer. The leaves of Ambassador allium are strap-like. Landscape Uses for Ambassador Allium Juxtapose Ambassador allium with a yellow, late-blooming tulip plant to create a sharp color contrast. It is also a good companion plant for rose bushes. Its tall stature makes it a logical choice for insertion into the back row of a flower border. Such placement offers a bonus: The unsightly leaves of early summer will be hidden, as will be the "hole" left behind by the time it becomes dormant in mid-summer.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月23日

The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer. There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis. Controlling Bloom Time If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time. If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs. [图片]Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group) Common Name Amaryllis Plant Type Perennial bulb Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors) Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA) Native Area Central and South America Toxicity Mildly toxic Amaryllis Care The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom. As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom. Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later. Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight. Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet. Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering. The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet. Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers. As a Garden Plant In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off. From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter. Light Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon. Soil Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix. Water During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above). Temperature and Humidity Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched. Fertilizer During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs. Varieties of Amaryllis There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include: 'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings. 'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats. 'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties. 'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers. 'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green. Pruning When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location. [图片]Propagating Amaryllis Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers. Common Pests and Diseases Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails. If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.

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Miss Chen

2021年07月21日

The Amaranthus genus is a complicated one, featuring at least 75 annual and perennial species that easily cross-breed and hybridize. Today, most gardeners are familiar with the species as ornamental plants, and many don't even realize that amaranths are also edible plants that can be grown for their grain-like seeds and edible leaves. In fact, this was once the primary reason amaranth served as a staple in home cottage gardens. Historically, the use of amaranth as an ornamental plant is a relatively recent development. Edible amaranth is often grown for the plentiful tiny seeds that hang in tassels from the top of the plant after the attractive red flowers fade. The bulk seed is used as a "grain" in porridges or added as a thickener to soups and stews. The seeds are extremely nutritious and protein-packed, with a slightly nutty flavor. You can also use the leaves of amaranth as a leafy vegetable; the taste is similar to spinach and it can be used in the same way as many other leafy vegetables, especially in mixed-green salads. [图片]If consumption is the goal, choose annual amaranth varieties marketed as edibles. Nearly all amaranths are edible, including love-lies-bleeding and even the common road-side weedy forms. But those sold as edible varieties are selected for their good seed production and especially tasty leaves. Amaranth is native to North America and Central America, and is usually planted from seed as soon as the last frost has passed in the spring. If you are eager for early harvest, you can start the seeds indoors as much as eight weeks earlier. If you want to harvest the plants for seeds, it will take about 12 weeks for the plants to reach full maturity. Leaves can be harvested within a few weeks of outdoor planting. Botanical Name Amaranthus Common Names Amaranth, amaranthus, pigweed Plant Type Herbaceous annual Mature Size 2–5 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer, fall, early winter Flower Color Red, burgundy, pink, orange, green Hardiness Zones 2-11 (USDA) Native Area North America, Central America Toxicity Non-toxic Amaranth Care Amaranth grows well in any average well-drained soil, and you should make sure the site you choose has good drainage and air circulation. To ensure continued production, it's a good idea to stagger planting every two to three weeks, beginning a week or two after the last frost date in your region. While amaranth plants are tall, they aren’t necessarily wide or bushy, so you can get away with planting them 10 to 18 inches apart. The closer you can get them, the better they look once fully grown. At the same time, they need enough space to provide good air circulation. Light Amaranth does best in full sun in the northern part of its range, but in warm southern climates, it can benefit from some shade in the afternoon. Generally, aim to give your plant at least six hours of sunlight a day. Soil Amaranth grows well in average soils and will even grow adequately in poor soils. Only dense clay mixtures are likely to be completely unsuitable for amaranth, though very rich soils may hinder flowering and seed production. Water Amaranth plants have average needs for water, requiring no more than 1 inch per week. Take care not to overwater your plant, or you run the risk of root rot or fungal diseases. Temperature and Humidity Unlike other leafy green vegetables, amaranth is fairly happy in the heat. Many species are native to the southern U.S. and Mexico, so you can expect them to thrive even when the temperatures are unusually warm. Fertilizer Amaranth doesn't require any additional feeding. In fact, excessive nitrogen (often found in fertilizers) can cause the plants to become leggy and less suitable for harvesting. Amaranth Varieties Varieties of amaranth can range from giants topping 8 feet tall, to smaller 1- to 2-foot plants better suited for leaf harvest only. You should cultivate larger plants specifically grown for their seeds if you want the amaranth grain. Some popular varieties include: Red-leaf amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor): This varietal has especially nutritious foliage that tastes like slightly tangy spinach. 'Molten Fire' and 'Joseph's Coat' are popular cultivars of this species. ‘Burgundy’ (A. hypochondriacus): Stunning purple leaves, red flowers, and white seeds adorn this varietal. ‘Hopi Red Dye’ (A. cruentus): An heirloom species, it produces excellent protein-rich black seeds. Propagating Amaranth Thanks to their plentiful seeds, amaranth plants will readily self-seed in the garden. As they sprout in spring, the volunteers can be thinned out to about 10 to 18 inches apart, or carefully dug up and transplanted elsewhere. It's also possible to collect some of the seeds in the fall and replant them the following spring. Be aware, though, that if the original plants were hybrids, the volunteer seedlings may not "come true" and can look different than the parent plant. How to Grow Amaranth From Seed When planting amaranth outdoors, sow seeds about 4 inches apart, barely covering them with soil. Germination generally takes seven to 14 days. As they sprout, thin the plants out to a spacing of 10 to 18 inches. [图片]If starting seeds indoors, you can use a general seed-starting mix and make sure to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors. The average outdoor temperature needs to reach about 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you can successfully plant the seedlings outdoors. Harvesting Amaranth You can harvest both the leaves and grains from any amaranth, but if your goal is an edible plant, choose a variety specialized for that. Some types of amaranth are marketed as best for seed production, while others are bred for their attractive, tasty leaves. Regardless of your cultivar, amaranth leaves can be harvested at any point. Small leaves are more tender, but the larger leaves boast a fuller flavor. Large size and heat won’t turn amaranth leaves bitter, as often occurs with other leafy greens, so you can harvest at any point throughout the season. When harvesting the plant's leaves, make sure to leave the crown intact, as well as some leaves around the top, so the plant can continue to grow. Alternately, you can also cut the whole plant off at ground level when it is between 1 and 2 feet tall. It’s possible that it will resprout for another harvest, though you do risk introducing pests to the open stem. To harvest amaranth grains, let the plant go all the way to flower. Keep an eye on the flowers as they bloom and begin to die back. Before they all turn brown, cut the flowers off and place them in bags, where they will dry. Shake the bag once they are dry, or knock the seeds loose over a cloth. Rinse away the dried seed “chaff” and enjoy your grain harvest. Amaranth is especially good in a porridge that also contains other grains, like millet and quinoa. Common Pests/Diseases Amaranth can fall prey to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other vegetables. Aphids and flea beetles are common; insecticidal soaps are a good remedy for the former, and floating row covers will protect the plants from the latter. Avoid using commercial pesticides with a "wait to pick" or any other type of warning regarding consumption. Many of these types of pesticides are broad-spectrum, designed to eliminate multiple insects, and may contain ingredients that aren't meant to be ingested by humans. Root rot can also be a problem in wet, dense soil or in periods where rainfalls are frequent and copious. Once root rot occurs, the plant must be removed. Your best defense against the issue is maintaining well-draining soil and not overwatering the plant.

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