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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) belong to the cucurbit family, along with pumpkins (Cucurbita maxima), squash and gourds (both Cucurbita pepo). Popular annual vines grown throughout the United States, they produce best during long, warm summer days. Standard cucumber vines grow rapidly and need vertical support. Dwarf bush cucumbers support themselves, and they work well in small garden plots or containers. No matter the type of cucumber vine grown, organic soil amendments meet their special nutrient requirements best. [图片]Nutrient Requirements Cucumbers have low nitrogen requirements, but they need high potassium and high phosphorus levels. With commercial fertilizer formulas, this means the first of the three numbers on the package should be much lower than the other two. Knowing your soil type helps determine how much and what nutrients your cucumbers need. Sandy soils leach vital substances and become nutrient-poor quickly. Heavy soils can lock nutrients up. Adding compost before planting improves most garden soil. The organic matter enriches light sandy soils and lightens heavy clay soils. Nitrogen Precautions Beware of overfeeding your cucumbers with general, all-purpose formulas that contain higher nitrogen levels. They may encourage growth, but not the way you want. Since cucumbers have low nitrogen requirements, fertilizers high in nitrogen spark growth spurts that detract from the fruit. Instead of producing blossoms and fruit, nitrogen-fed cucumbers put their energy into growing vines, leaves and shoots. High-nitrogen fertilizers can also cause cucumber flowers to not open, and cause flowers do open to not set fruit. Cucumber Preferences Well-aged compost is the best source of nutrients for cucumbers. Compost only has 2 percent nitrogen, and it releases slowly over many years. Compost won't cause runaway vegetative growth at the expense of fruit. Instead, it adds nutrient reserves that stay available in soil long term. Compost can be applied yearly as mulch or worked into your soil without causing excess nutrient buildup. It also supplies phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients that cucumbers need. Compost mulch also helps keep down competition from weeds, so cucumbers get soil nutrients. If you don't make your own compost, you can buy commercially bagged compost or bulk compost at most garden centers and nurseries. [图片]Container Growing Feed container cucumbers by mixing compost with your potting soil. You can also add a timed-released, low-nitrogen, high-potassium pelleted fertilizer with a N-P-K ratio similar to 2-3-6. Apply 1 tablespoon per pot at planting, and again when you see the first true leaves on your cucumbers. For large containers over 12 inches in diameter or multiple plants in one pot, increase the amount accordingly. After cucumbers show true leaves, apply water-soluble, low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer weekly. Apply weekly fertilizers at half strength, mixing 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Always wear gloves and protective eyewear when working with fertilizers.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
Everyone knows the joke about finding a bulbous zucchini on the doorstep left behind by a generous neighbor who has planted too much and resorts to giving these veggies away. An overabundance of zucchinis may be a curse that befalls many gardeners, the opposite is sometimes true in the case of cucumbers. A garden-fresh cucumber is a welcome addition to summer salads, but cucumber plants can be prone to bacteria and mildew. That's why planting them with beneficial companion plants can help keep nasty insects at bay and attract beneficial bugs instead. [图片]Companion Planting [图片]Garden-fresh cucumbers add a welcome crunch to a fresh salad. Companion planting is a method of sowing vegetable and herb seeds in a garden so that plants "support" each other by repelling insects or infusing the soil with nutrients. Planting companion veggies together helps you increase the overall density of what you can grow in a small plot, plus you'll yield a more productive crop. Cucumbers and zucchinis are from the same family -- Cucurbitaceae, or the squash family -- so these cousins can be planted together in your vegetable garden. Planning Before you decide to toss a handful of cucumber and zucchini seeds in the soil, make sure you create optimum growing conditions for each. Cucumbers thrive in well-drained soil, plus they need full sun and plenty of room to grow. Once threat of frost has passed, cucumber seeds can go into the ground in early spring. Zucchinis also like full sun, but wait until the soil is at least 75 degrees Fahrenheit, otherwise seeds may not spout. Planting dates will vary depending on what U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone your garden is in. Planting In "Great Garden Companions," master gardener Sally Jean Cunningham suggests sowing four cucumber seeds one foot apart in a mound or hill. You could simply sow the seeds into the soil, but creating a mound ensures the soil warms up quicker, which means you can get seeds into the ground earlier in the season. Sow zucchini seeds in a row 12 to 16 inches apart right down the middle of the square mound where you've planted your cucumbers. This way each plant has ample room to grow. Introducing Companions Once your cucumbers and zucchinis are nested in their garden beds, add some other beneficial companion plants such as basil, which repels flies and mosquitoes, and oregano, which repels cucumber beetles. Tuck some radishes in among the rows -- they help keep squash borers away from your zucchinis. Avoid planting sage and potatoes next to cucumbers and zucchinis.
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2018年04月27日
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Kale, a common garden vegetable related to cabbage and other cole crops, is a member of the Brassica genus, with a number of species and cultivars for the garden. Kale serves as a tasty vegetable whether it's cooked or raw. But you're not the only one who likes to munch on kale; many bug species also love eating kale. If insect pests have turned your kale garden bed into an all-you-can-eat salad buffet, take action. To minimize potential toxicity risks for you and your family, try all-natural or organic methods of kale bug eradication before resorting to chemical insecticides. [图片]Blast your kale with strong jets of water from your garden hose. This physically removes and deters insect invasions and also helps kill certain fragile bug species, such as the soft-bodied aphid -- a common kale pest. While kale leaves are firm and hardy, limit this bug control method to just once a day to avoid causing undue damage to your kale plants. [图片]Spritz your kale with soapy water. The soap film coats the bodies of any present insects and suffocates them. Once the soap dries, it also creates a bitter-tasting residue that keeps new bugs from moving in. For effective results, combine a teaspoon of liquid dish soap with half a gallon of fresh water in a spray bottle. Most dish soaps are nontoxic, but if you're worried, try using an organic and biodegradable dish soap. [图片]Release ladybugs in your kale garden bed. These are especially effective for naturally killing and reducing aphid populations, which commonly infest kale and other cole crops. [图片]Remove beetles and caterpillars manually. Such handpicking is a natural and effective form of pest control in smaller gardens. Drop the bugs into a bucket of soapy water to quickly kill the pests and prevent them from simply returning to your kale. [图片]Spray your kale with a natural and organic insecticide if you notice heavy insect invasions -- causing wilting and other signs of visible plant distress -- on 10 percent or more of your kale plants. The manual handpicking you accomplished in the previous step can easily help you determine the level of insect invasions. Sprays tend to run off the glossy kale leaves. Remedy this by adding about 3 teaspoons of liquid soap per gallon of spray mixture to improve the liquid's adhesion. Spray both sides of the leaves with a fine mist until they are wet. Spray twice, five to seven days apart, and avoid spraying on a hot, sunny day. For effective, natural pest control against all kinds of common kale pests, including beetles and leafminers, try spinosad. Based on a soil-dwelling bacterium, the spray satisfies federal regulations concerning organic certification for vegetables.
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2018年04月27日
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Pumpkins (Cucurbita spp.) grow when there is no threat of frost for at least 90 days. An annual vine that dies after the pumpkin fruits form and ripen, gardeners in the United States plant seeds in late spring or midsummer for harvest in time for October festivities. Pumpkins need abundant sunlight and warmth to grow, flower and set fruits well. Shady garden locations are poor sites for raising pumpkin plants. Growing Requirements [图片]Pumpkin patches are always in an open, sunny spot. Pumpkin vines need lots of space to sprawl their vines across the garden soil. Depending on the variety, 500 to 2,000 square feet is needed for bush-vine pie and jumbo jack o' lantern types, respectively. Plant seeds in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Full sun is a must -- at least 8 hours of direct sunrays daily. Insufficient sunlight causes vines to grow long and spindly with few leaves and flowers. Effects of Shade Shady growing conditions retard the growth of pumpkins on many levels. The shade delays warming of soil and air, thereby slowing vine growth. Lack of sun prevents leaves from producing enough carbohydrates, leads to delay in flowering and slows the development of pumpkin fruits. Pumpkin vines also do not do well in moist, high humidity conditions. A shady garden slows evaporation of dew and rain droplets and can increase susceptibility for stem, root and fruit rot from fungi and molds. When to Plant Pumpkins [图片]In the northern United States where the summers aren't too hot and the frost-free growing seasons are shorter, sow pumpkin seeds in mid to late spring after the expected last spring frost date in May. Soil temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit are best. Sow pumpkins the same time as cucumbers, sweet corn, watermelon, cantaloupe and squash. In the extreme southern U.S., sow pumpkins in early summer, anytime from mid June early July, so they grow and ripen just in time for harvest in September and October. Pumpkin vines die too early in summer in the South, which leads to pumpkin rot or deterioration in the warm temperatures if sown in April or May. Flowering Insight [图片]Ample sunlight encourages production of flowers in pumpkin vines. Blossoms are either male or female in gender, and both must be present for pollination by bees. The flowers open during the day and close at night or when it's not bright enough or rainy. Shady conditions can delay flowers opening and keep temperatures too cool for heavy visitation by bees. Only pollinated, female pumpkin flowers produce pumpkin fruits.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
Plant a vegetable garden this spring and save money on your grocery bills. White acre peas and other southern peas grow quickly and produce high yields in warmer climates. Cow peas of all varieties produce peas in shells that you can cook immediately or dry for long-term storage. Found mainly in Florida, white acre peas have a soft texture and delicate creamy taste. [图片]Step 1 Prepare the soil for your peas by tilling a 3-inch layer of compost into the soil. White acre peas need well-drained, loamy soil. They prefer a moderately acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. For best results have your soil tested and apply garden sulfur in amounts recommended by your soil test to correct the pH, if needed. Step 2 Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting white acre peas. Sow seeds every 3 to 6 inches in rows that are at least 20 inches apart. Sow multiple seeds per hole to ensure germination. Sow additional rows of seed two weeks apart so that the harvest continues throughout the summer. Step 3 Water your rows every day for the first week, and reduce to twice weekly once germination is complete. While growing, white acre peas need an inch of water every seven to 10 days. When your peas are beginning to flower, water them gently near the base of the plant. Step 4 Thin your seedlings when they begin to sprout new leaves. Reduce the population to only one plant every six inches. Either pull the seedlings from the earth by grasping them near the roots or clip them with a pair of garden shears. [图片]Step 5 Fertilize your peas with bone meal and wood ash, 1/2 tbsp. each per plant. White acre peas need plenty of phosphorous and potassium but self-fertilize the soil with nitrogen. Adding nitrogen from conventional plant food causes low pea pod production but bigger bushes. Step 6 Harvest your white acre peas 75 to 90 days after planting. If you plan to eat your peas fresh, pick your peas when the pods plump but have not yet begun to dry. For long-term storage, allow the pods to dry on the vine. Shell the peas and complete the drying process spread on screens.
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2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
栀子叶色亮绿,四季常青,花大洁白,芳香馥郁,又有一定耐荫和抗有毒气体的能力,故为良好的绿化、美化、香化的材料,可成片丛植或配置于林缘、庭前、庭隅、路旁,植作花篱也极适宜,作阳台绿化、盆花、切花或盆景都十分适宜,也可用于街道和厂矿绿化。下面来看看盆栽栀子花的养殖七要素吧。 [图片]第一 选择适宜的盆土选择适宜的盆土。栀子花是喜酸性花卉,适宜的pH值为5至6。如果土壤酸度不适宜,将会在今后的管理中事倍功半。栽培用土可选腐叶土、泥炭土或沤制锯屑加一半的园土,忌用陈墙土和煤渣,用市售的君子兰土更加方便实用。 第二 合理施肥合理施肥。栀子花喜肥。在培养土中可加入3%腐熟饼肥作基肥。生长季节用饼肥加硫酸亚铁沤制的矾肥水每周浇一次,也可用0.1%腐殖酸全营养有机液肥。现蕾期浇1次至2次0.1%磷酸二氢钾水溶液,可使花朵肥大、花香浓郁。酷暑期气温35℃以上和秋季15℃以下时停肥。 第三多晒太阳多晒太阳。栀子喜光,长期在半阴处也能生长,但花枝较长,花朵较少。除7月至8月中午强光需遮阴和冬季休眠期外,一般都需放阳光下养护,才能花繁叶茂。 第四 科学浇水科学浇水。栀子花喜湿润的土壤和较大的空气湿度。在4月至9月生长期要保持盆土湿润。盆土表面见干就浇水,晚上可用喷壶向叶面淋水浇施。如干透萎蔫,会对生长不利。生长过旺、节间较长的,晚上不浇水,早上太阳出来再浇水。北方碱性水地区,自来水要放两天再用。每隔三五日,用每升中加入0.5克柠檬酸、1克硫酸亚铁的水溶液浇透水一次,可使叶片油润碧绿。 第五 冬季休眠好冬季休眠好。栀子花在我国秦岭一带可露地越冬,但盆栽栀子经严冬后根系会受损害,春季恢复慢。而在有供暖的室内越冬,虽不受冻害,但光照不足,生长瘦弱,秋季形成的幼蕾大多脱落,第二年开花晚。较好的办法是将盆花放在5℃左右的冷室使其休眠,或用泡沫塑料等保温材料将花盆包裹好,保护好根系,放在背风向阳处越冬,春季恢复快,开花早。 [图片]第六 适当修剪适当修剪。大花栀子小苗在主干20厘米高处打去顶尖,留3个至4个分枝,分枝2对叶片时再打去顶尖,促发分枝,以后可任其生长。小叶栀子不需打顶。每年开花后轻修剪,剪去内膛枝、病弱枝,个别徒长枝短截。大花栀子4年至5年后冠幅太大时,可于花后进行强修剪,一般将上部分枝留2对叶短截,出芽后抹去向内生长的芽和主干下部的芽,株形会变得更紧凑美观。切记栀子花春季不可短截枝顶,否则当年不会开花。 第七 适时换盆土适时换盆土。小苗用小盆栽,逐渐换入大盆。当冠幅为盆口径的2倍至3倍时,就该换盆了。生长季节随时可换。倒盆后连土坨栽入新盆,口径较原盆大5厘米左右为宜。家庭盆栽当盆达到28厘米左右时,一般不再换盆而只换盆土。于春季3月换土较好。倒盆后剪去部分老根,抖掉一半旧土,用新土栽入盆中后浇透水,放温暖半阴处,有新芽萌动时放阳光下养护。 大叶栀子花怎么养 北方养护大叶栀子常因气候、土壤等条件不适宜其生长发育,而引起大叶栀子叶片变黄甚至全株死亡。为此北方养护大叶栀子,须掌握好以下几点。 大叶栀子对土壤的要求比较严格,在pH5-6的酸性土壤中生长良好,而北方的土壤一般呈中性或碱性,在这种土壤中,由于铁盐的水解,形成不溶于水的氢氧化铁,不能为植物吸收,造成植物严重缺铁。铁虽然不是叶绿素的成分,但系叶绿素形成的必要条件,所以缺铁就等于阻断了叶绿素的合成,因而使光合作用不能正常进行,这就造成植株饥饿死亡的主要原因。 另外铁又是某些氧化酶的成分,在呼吸中还起到重要作用。如果缺铁,即会影响植株的正常生理活动。解决缺铁症,采用浇“矾肥水”的办法能收到良好的效果。除此之外,也可在盆土中掺入少量黑矾粉末,用量为盆土重量的0.5%,生长季节每隔10-15天浇一次0.5%-1.0%的黑矾水,也能保证栀子花对铁的要求,使其能够正常生长发育。 北方土壤多呈中性或偏碱性,导致土壤中缺乏可供植株利用的铁元素,这是引起叶片变黄的主要原因之一。为此,培养大叶栀子要选用肥沃的酸性培养土。一般可用腐叶土4份、园土4份、沙土2份混合配制。再按每千克培养土拌人1~2克硫磺粉。浇大叶栀子宜用雨水或经过发酵的淘米水。生长期间每隔10~15天浇一次0.2%硫酸亚铁水或每隔10~15天施一次矾肥水(两者可相间进行)。这样既能防止土壤变碱,又能及时给土壤补充铁元素,从而防止叶子变黄。 叶栀子喜湿润,除平时需经常保持盆土湿润外,还必须经常注意增加空气湿度。这是因为北方气候与南方不同,北方春季干燥,常刮干旱风,夏季光照强度大,天气炎热,冬季寒冷干燥。因此,春、夏季节每天早晚要用清水喷洒叶面并向附近地面洒水,以增加空气湿度。冬季浇水宜少,但仍需经常喷洗枝叶,保持叶面洁净。 大叶栀子喜光照,但怕强光曝晒。如遭曝晒,则叶子发黄、发白直至脱落。所以,夏季须放在荫棚下或具有散射光的地方培养,让其早、晚见些阳光,以免叶子变黄。大叶栀子不耐寒,要注意适期人室和出室,一般于10月中旬入室,放向阳处,室温保持在10℃一12℃为宜。翌春不宜过早出室,通常于4月下旬出室为好。如果能做到以上四点,大叶栀子不仅能在北方安家,而且叶绿花繁并具浓香。 以上就是小编为您介绍的盆栽栀子花怎么养,希望能够帮助到您。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
香椿含有极丰富的营养。据分析,每100克香椿头中,含蛋白质9.8克、含钙143毫克、含维生素C115毫克,都列蔬菜中的前茅。另外,还含磷135毫克、胡萝卜素1.36毫克,以及铁和B族维生素等营养物质。可用于制作香椿炒鸡蛋、香椿竹笋、香椿拌豆腐、潦香椿、煎香椿饼、椿苗拌三丝、椒盐香椿鱼、香椿鸡脯、香椿豆腐肉饼、香椿皮蛋豆腐、香椿拌花生、凉拌香椿、腌香椿、冷拌香椿头。既然香椿如此受用,那么小编就来教教大家香椿芽的种植方法。 [图片]1、种子的准备 香椿品种较多,常为人们食用的有红油香椿、紫油香椿和绿椿,其中紫油香椿的种粒大而饱满,发芽率高,是生产籽芽香椿的最佳品种。香椿种子呈三角形、半圆形或菱形,红褐色,一端有膜质长翅。千粒重为10一11克。香椿种子发芽率的高低与香椿树龄的长短有很大的关系,30年以上树龄的香椿种子生命力极弱,发芽率仅为5%一10%,成活率更低,芽菜生产上以10一25年树龄的香椿树种子为宜。 香椿种子的贮藏期较短,在常温条件下半年就开始降低发芽率,一年全部丧失,因此生产籽芽香椿时,用种量要根据生产能力和自己的需要量一次购足。为保持较高的发芽率,备足的种子应在4―5℃的冷库或冷凉通风处保存,才可保证四季用种。 香椿种子的膜质长翅是种子维持生命的一个重要组成部分,贮藏期间不能除去,否则影响发芽率。因此,香椿芽生产中宜选用未过夏的新种子,切忌使用隔年陈种。香椿种子在浸种前要进行清选,把种子放在口袋中轻轻揉搓,然后吹或扇去膜质长翅,筛除果梗、果壳,拣去混在种子中的各种杂质。根据生产量的要求计算好用种量,清洗干净后先淘洗2―3次再进行浸种,水温20―30℃,水量是种子体积的2―3倍。香椿种子发芽所需最适浸种时间为24小时,其相对吸水量为120.2%。 浸种期间最好换一次水,洗去种皮上的粘液,以利于提高发芽速度。浸种结束后捞出种子,沥去多余的水分等待播种。 [图片]2、播种和催芽:播种和催芽是芽菜栽培中减少烂种、提高芽苗整齐度、保证产品质量的关键环节,播种要均匀,每盘的播种量要一致。香椿种子因发芽较慢,催芽要分两段进行,所以播种也得分两次进行: 第一段催芽播种量为每盘750一1000克,催芽温度为20―23℃,催芽时间为3―4天。催芽方式、方法及管理与豌豆苗相似。待幼芽露白、芽长1―2mm后及时进行第二次播种和叠盘催芽, 第二段催芽。注意种芽不可过长,否则第二次播种时易受伤害。播种前可再将种子用清水淘洗干净,以减少种子在第二段催芽期间的霉烂。第二段催芽的方法和管理与豌豆苗相似,在此期间要求温度在20―23℃,催芽时间5―6天,每盘的播种量为40一50克。待香椿芽长0.5―1.0厘米时及时出盘,摆在栽培架上进行生产管理。香椿芽生产所用的基质可以是干净的珍珠岩,也可以直接用白棉布或新闻纸。如用珍珠岩作基质,先将苗盘洗净后铺一层新闻纸,将香椿种子均匀播种后再平铺一层3厘米左右厚的珍珠岩。用珍珠岩作基质进行香椿芽生产的,在管理上需要的是减少浇水量。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
黄杨盆景,由于其生长缓慢,一年四季蓊郁青翠、茂盛结实,在众多树种的盆景中,尽管无高档花草那样太多奢华、张扬之势,却以稳健厚重风格与阳刚秉性征服观赏者,让广大盆景爱好者青睐有加,奉为盆景树种中的上品。枝叶繁茂,叶形别致,四季常青,常用于绿篱、花坛和盆栽,修剪成各种形状,是点缀小庭院和入口处的好材料。 [图片]雀舌黄杨盆景养护方法 充足的阳光和水分雀舌黄杨盆景的摆放,最好能选择在“上午能晒阳,下午较阴凉,空气流通好,雨露靠自然”的地方为佳。如果室内观赏最好十天半月后让它又去日晒雨淋。 雀舌黄杨盆景的盆内,要经常保持湿润,这是因为它根部的吸收和叶面的光合作用及整个生长过程,都需要大量的水分,当然需求量也是随季节气候的变化而变化的。雀舌黄杨从江河溪流边到了园内的小盆子里生长,环境的最大变化,是环境的湿度小了,这就要靠我们的养护给它适时适量的补充。所以浇水要注意气候,要讲究技术,要保证质量。温度20℃以上,盆内又缺水时,浇水分三步: 第一步,冲干不动土(满足盆内需水量); 第二步,枝叶要湿透(多角度浇); 第三步,喷雾。 暑天或温度在20℃以上,盆内不缺水,就按第二、第三步浇;温度在20℃以下10℃以上,盆内又不缺水,冬天上午在阳光下,一天一次都按第三步浇水。秋天“白露”以后,等露水干了,按第三步喷水。霜天早晚不浇水;“三九天”寒潮来之前不浇水以防冻土,冻枝叶,同样要保持盆内滤水通气好。 薄肥勤施雀舌黄杨的肥要坚持以蔸肥为主,以自然肥为主,以人畜粪便为主。慎施鸡鸭粪和高效肥,切记不能施没有腐熟的肥和过量施肥,要做到薄肥勤施。在季节变换前施点季节肥,如初春施催芽肥,夏天施壮叶肥,暑天施抗温肥,冬天施保温肥;每次修剪后施点补尝肥,雨季和暑天盆内过水多施点补充肥,长势不好的要施酌情肥。 造型以剪为主雀舌黄杨的木质坚硬而脆,枝条皮薄易伤,可塑性不大,所以首先要注意选桩,然后因树制宜,因势利导,造型必须以修剪为主。也可适当用绳捆索拉,枝条变位大的要几次到位,即不能苛求,也不能急于求成,否则会适得其反。忌用锈铁丝绞枝条,一防伤皮,二防死枝。 [图片]雀舌黄杨盆景主干长势特慢,非常苍劲,但嫩枝条长得较快,叶的密度必然拉长,就显得软散,惟有用“摘心”来控制,才能保证观赏价值。就是在枝条没有木质化之前,留一对,最多两对嫩叶片,其余摘掉或剪掉,在适当的水,肥等条件下,十天半月它就会发出两个嫩芽来。就这样周而复始,它的枝条显得短而粗,叶片可以2的积数倍增,不断提高观赏价值。再就是要及时摘除花苞。雀舌黄杨在夏秋之前就开始有花苞了,春天开花,花果所需营养要占全树的70%-80%,这样必然影响它正常生长和美观,我们是以观叶为主。所以必然从见花苞开始,就要把它摘除。 换盆需剪短多数根系雀舌黄杨是肉质细根,它的水分和营养吸收主要是根部尖端的吸收功能,与根臂的长短是次要的。根留长了,在盆内不能舒展。弯曲揉折是十分有害的。而且,根尖为了吸收营养,自然的会向前延伸,接触新土。根留长了,不要好久,根尖就会碰壁,虽然根尖是会转向的,但要费力费时,影响生长。特别是盆壁和盆底很快又会串满了根,形成无土的“根板”,又要换盆。这样就形成了恶性循环。带土换盆的(不宜多带土)要剪去露在土面的长根。换盆的最佳季节,一是初春(定根后就可以萌芽)。二是暑天长势旺盛季节(换盆后在阴凉处摆上七八天,又会恢复旺势)。 防治卷叶蛾的幼虫卷叶蛾的幼虫最喜欢吸吮黄杨的叶汁,卷叶虫出世后吐出丝能将周围的叶片卷曲一团,它躲在中间吸吮叶液,两三天它就将卷曲叶的汁液吸完,留下的是白色的叶脉网络了,这时它又转移行害了,不及时捕杀,五六天后它会将所有的叶片破坏掉。不仅破坏了美观,而且长势不好的会因此死亡。卷叶虫只要一般“吸杀”、“触杀”的农药都能消灭它,贵在及时发现及时扑灭。值得注意的是,卷叶蛾的卵,在暑天,特别是温度在30℃以上时,只要三四天就能孵化成作害的小虫,换代最快。所以温度高时,一周能捕杀一次为好。 以上就是小编为您介绍的雀舌黄杨盆景图片及养护方法,希望能够帮助到您。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Miss Chen
牵牛花多用于庭院围墙以及高速道路护坡的绿化美化;矮牵牛用途比较大,可以做盆栽、吊盆、花台及花坛美化,还可以大面积种植。牵牛花的花期在秋季;圆叶牵牛花型较小,裂叶牵牛花型稍大;花色为纯色。矮牵牛的花期长达数月(5~7月),花冠喇叭状;花形有单瓣、重瓣、瓣缘皱褶或呈不规则锯齿等; 花色有红、白、粉、紫及各种带斑点、网纹、条纹等。 [图片]特点1、牵牛花的生物学特点 矮牵牛原产南美。喜温暖和阳光充足环境。不耐寒,怕雨涝。矮牵牛的生长适温为13~18℃,冬季温度在4~10℃,如低于4℃,植株生长停止,能经受-2℃低温。但夏季高温35℃时,矮牵牛仍能正常生长,对温度的适应性较强。矮牵牛喜干怕湿,在生长过程中,需充足水分,特别夏季高温季节,应在早、晚浇水,保持盆土湿润。但梅雨季雨水多、对矮牵牛生长十分不利,盆土过湿,茎叶容易徒长,花期雨水多,花朵褪色,易腐烂,若遇阵雨,花瓣容易撕裂。如盆内长期积水,往往根部腐烂,整株萎蔫死亡。 矮牵牛属长日照植物。生长期要求阳光充足,大部分矮牵牛品种在正常阳光下,从播种至开花在100天左右,如果光照不足或阴雨天过多,往往开花延迟10~15天,而且开花少。因此,冬季棚室栽培矮牵牛时,在低温短日照条件下,茎叶生长繁茂。当春季长日照条件下,从茎叶顶端很快着花。矮牵牛宜用疏松、肥沃和排水良好的微酸性砂质壤土。 [图片]特点2、牵牛花的品种特点 梦幻(Dreams)系列,株高18~20厘米,抗病品种,其中玫瑰梦(RoseDreams)花玫瑰红,黄心,花径8~10厘米。阿拉丁(Aladdin)系列,株高30厘米,花色多种,其中蓝天(SkyBlue)花鲜蓝色,花径10厘米,更为突出。 猎鹰(Eagle),矮生种,株高10厘米,花径9厘米,花色多,其中红星(RedStar)鲜红白双色呈星状。 呼拉圈(Hulahoop)系列,株高30厘米,双色种,早花型,花径9厘米。地毯(Carpet)系列,单瓣多花品种,抗热品种,分枝性强,花紧凑,其中火焰(Flame)花瓣红色,具金黄色喉部。幻想曲(Fantasy)系列,单瓣密花品种,株高25~30厘米,花小,属迷你型,花径2.5~3厘米,分枝性强,其中天蓝(SkyBlue)最为突出。梅林(Merlin)系列,单瓣密花品种,株高25厘米,早花种,分枝性强,花色多样,从播种至开花需80天,为抗病品种。 以上就是小编为您介绍的牵牛花的特点,希望能够帮助到您。
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