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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.[图片]Can You Trim a Cactus? New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.[图片]Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.[图片]Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants. How to Cut Back a Cactus The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.[图片]The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.[图片]What to Do With Pruned Off Parts Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.[图片]Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.[图片]Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents store water in their thick, fleshy leaves. The appearance of a succulent depends on the variety, with some producing branching stems covered with interesting foliage and others more prized for their colorful flowers. Most succulents thrive in drier conditions, although nearly all make suitable houseplants if your outdoor climate is too wet. While most types don’t require pruning, some of the branching types can benefit from a light trim to maintain their size and shape so they can thrive in a small garden bed or container.[图片]Instruction Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node. Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.[图片]Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest. Tip Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.[图片]The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.[图片]Warning Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
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2017年09月23日
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.[图片]Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots. Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.[图片]Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade. Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.[图片]Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost. Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.[图片]Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week. Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant Things You Will Need Garden knife Handheld spade 3- or 4-inch nursery container Perlite Coarse sand Sterile compost[图片]Tip Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) doesn’t really need to bloom to have a commanding presence in the garden. The symmetrically rounded stem is armored down the ridges with clusters of golden yellow spines. A wooly white patch tops older cacti. This is the central growing point and bears the small yellow flowers. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, these long-lived, slow-growing cacti can reach 3 feet across and 4 feet high. They are suitable for container plants anywhere.[图片]Flowers The life cycle of the Golden Barrel starts with the flower, which needs to be pollinated to produce seeds. Yellow funnel-shaped flowers grow in a ring in the central felted portion. Plants have to be at least 14 inches across before they are old enough to flower. Sometimes the flowers are self-fertile, but you get more seeds when flowers cross-pollinate with those on another Golden Barrel. Bees are the usual pollinators. Once flowers are pollinated, they close and seeds begin to form in the ovary beneath the faded flower.[图片]Fruits The fruits are embedded within the dense plant hairs on top of the plant, and they remain in place year after year unless you pull them out. Sometimes ground squirrels harvest them to eat the seeds. The dried flower stays on top of the fruit. The fresh fruit has a yellowish fleshy wall that dries to brown. The oval black seeds inside the fruit remain viable for a long time. To collect the seeds, gently remove the fruit by grasping the dried flower and slightly twisting it as you pull. It’s best to take fruits to a work table to break them open and remove the seeds.[图片]Seeds Seeds germinate during warm, moist conditions and need light to sprout. To plant the seeds, use a clean shallow pot with drainage holes and a soil-less growing mix like half peat and half perlite. After filling the pot within an inch of the top with the potting mix, scatter some chicken grit on top, and then evenly distribute the seeds so they lodge among the grit. Water the pot from the bottom by temporarily putting it in a tray of water so the mix is thoroughly wet. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in bright indirect light, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.[图片]Seedlings Pudgy little seedlings emerge from the seeds after four to six weeks. They look like miniature greenish-pink pencil erasers with a pair of pointed corners, which are the cotyledons or seed leaves. As the seedlings grow, a puff of little spines develops on a bump between the cotyledons. Gradually remove the plastic after the seeds have germinated. Allow them to grow until they are big enough to touch each other and have a little crown of spines, when you can transfer them in small clumps of four to six plants to individual 2-inch pots. Being in clumps helps to keep them from being overwatered.[图片]Young Plants As the seedlings grow, they begin to look more like a cactus. Plants have little bumps with a cluster of small spines atop each bump, more properly called tubercles, that eventually join together to form the ridges on the cactus. When your seedlings fill the pot, unpot them, separate them and give each one its own 2-inch pot. Each time they grow to touch the sides of the pot, transplant them to just the next pot size and gradually give them partial sunlight. When cacti are 6 inches wide, they can be gradually accustomed to garden conditions and planted outdoors. After about 15 years, the plant becomes large enough to flower, and the cycle repeats itself.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.[图片]Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.[图片]Stem Cuttings Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol. Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.[图片]Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent. Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting. Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.[图片]Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again. Seeds Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry. Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.[图片]Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well. Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.[图片]Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.[图片]Things You Will Need Pruning shears Rubbing alcohol Nursery containers Cactus and succulent potting mix Perlite Nursery flat Plastic wrap[图片]Tip Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kiwi Aeonium (Aeonium ‘Kiwi’) adds year-round color and texture to gardens with its colorful foliage, which has shades of chartreuse, cream and red. It grows U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it grows equally well in containers and low-water landscaping beds. Kiwi Aeonium propagates best by vegetative methods, but they will also grow from seed. Seed-grown plants sometimes differ in appearance because they’re hybrids.[图片]Seed Propagation Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.[图片]Stem Cutting Propagation Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.[图片]Division Propagation Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.[图片]Planting and Aftercare No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Columnar Cacti earned their common name from the slender shape and erect growth habit they exhibit. Several unrelated species are known by the name Columnar Cacti, including Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis), Firecracker Cactus (Cleistocactus smaragdiflorus) and giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea).[图片]Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.[图片]1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it. 2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.[图片]3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant. 4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.[图片]5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot. 6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.[图片]7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water. 8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.[图片]9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots. 10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.[图片]Tip Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are nick named “Fat Plants” because they store water in their leaves, roots, or stems. The stored water makes these plants appear fleshy and swollen; their leaves plump and firm with the stored water.[图片]The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.[图片]Propagation Using Cuttings Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants. Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.[图片]The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.[图片]Propagation by Division The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.[图片]The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.[图片]Propagation with Offsets The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.[图片]These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Some succulents make your propagation work easier by forming new plants mostly on their own. Some leaf succulents develop roots on their stems while still attached to the mother plant, and sometimes leaves fall off succulents and root by themselves. Still others develop new rooted plantlets at their bases. For such plants, minimal effort is needed on the part of the gardener.[图片]Root-Forming Stems Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.[图片]Leaf Propagation Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.[图片]Division Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.[图片]Bulbils and Tubers Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.[图片]
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.[图片]This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.[图片]Things You’ll Need Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand. Instructions Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.[图片]Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.[图片]Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.[图片]Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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