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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant valued for its vivid, bright colors, and tightly clustered bouquets of little flowers. It’s hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, but makes an excellent indoor plant. Kalanchoe flowers can start losing their vibrancy in the second and third years of growth, but propagation methods are easy and can produce young, healthy varieties that grow from 36 to 48 inches (90 to 120 cm). The seeds from cross-pollination can produce some interesting hybrids as well, but there’s no guarantee that there will be a particular resemblance to the parent plants. If you want to give it a try and see what you get, seed propagation is right for you. If you would rather have more of the same plant, you can propagate Kalanchoe plants by using cuttings.[图片]Seeds Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.[图片]To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen. The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.[图片]Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.[图片]Leaf Cuttings If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.[图片]The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.[图片]Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.[图片]Seedling Care After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.[图片]Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.[图片]Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.[图片]Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.[图片]1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.[图片]2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.[图片]3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings. 4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.[图片]5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing a collection of succulents for your indoor garden starts with one you already own.[图片]1. Cut the Heads Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.[图片]2. Pluck Leaves Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.[图片]3. Arrange and Water Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.[图片]4. Tend To The Pups Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.[图片]
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.[图片]Cutting Selection Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.[图片]Plantlet Alternative Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.[图片]Growing Environment Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.[图片]Watering Considerations Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Opuntia, also known as Prickly Pear Cacti are easily identified by their upside-down pear-shaped pads or segments. Their fleshy pads produce large showy flowers in the spring that turn into red, spiny fruits later in the season. There are more than 150 varieties of Prickly Pear Cacti, all of which are hardy in Sunset’s Climate Zones 12 through 24. These drought-tolerant plants make very low-maintenance houseplants that add a bit of Southwestern flair to a room’s decor. Prickly Pear Cacti are easily propagated through cuttings.[图片]1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.[图片]2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge. 3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.[图片]4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own. 5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.[图片]6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).[图片]7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.[图片]8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.[图片]9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sometimes it is very easy to identify the best way to propagate a cactus or succulent, and other times it is not as obvious. However before you start, the first thing to ask yourself is: What kind of plant do I have? If you don’t know the easiest way to learn is to organize the information you know about your plant into categories. How is it shaped? Is it tall and thin, short and round, or does it have many little leaves? How does it grow? Does it grow all by itself, are there many branches, or are there similar tiny plants that poke up out of the soil near it? Does it flower?[图片]Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.[图片]Seeds Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including: Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia) Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce). Stem Cuttings[图片]Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are: Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis) Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria Euphorbia Stapeliads Bryophyllum Kalanchoe Graptopetalum. Leaf Cuttings[图片]Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to: Gasteria Haworthia, Sansevieria Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.). Grafting[图片]Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below: Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti Rootstock: Cereus repandus[图片]Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’ Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus. Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets[图片]Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.[图片]Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum Tubers: Ceropegia.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
About a month ago I bought and planted some succulents. I love the different shapes they come in and I was determined to keep them alive. I researched how to transplant succulents for a long time before I took them out of their pots. I can safely say they are still green and healthy![图片]I rounded up the tips that I learned in one place for anyone else to learn from, but also so I don’t forget them next time I get some desert plants. Buy Few, Plant Many I was standing in the nursery with 7-10 different kinds of succulents scattered around my feet. That’s when my husband put the kabosh on my plan to GET THEM ALL and said I should choose four. Although that was the hardest decision to make, I was once again reminded that I am married to a wise man.[图片]Four pots of succulents from the nursery quadrupled as soon as I started planting them! I wanted to give them enough space so each plant got its own pot and before I knew it, I had waaayy too many succulents on my hands.[图片]Choose Green During my research I found out that the different colors of cacti aren’t just pretty to look at. They have a purpose! If you are going to be keeping your plants indoors make sure you only buy green cacti. The beautiful purple, orange and yellow colors will die if they don’t get enough heat and sun. Since I like to live with my air conditioner on during the summer only green succulents would survive.[图片]Replant Buds The rose shaped succulents often come with tiny buds growing at their base. These sweet little babies are easy to pull off and will survive if you stick their orange stems into some dirt. Guess what? Free succulents! I have actually seen tutorials where you can do this with almost dead leaves from succulents, but I haven’t tried it yet. With any luck I won’t ever have to buy succulents again. I will just start my own miniature farm in my windowsill.[图片]Break Up Roots Some of the succulents that I pulled out of their pots from the store had thick roots that were dying to break free of their walls. Although this isn’t just a tip for succulents, any time you are transplanting something be sure to break the roots out of their shape and spread them out a little before introducing them to their new pot. This helps them grow into the bigger pot.[图片]Mix Dirt and Sand I didn’t read this tip until after my planting job was over but I am going to go back and mix in 1/3 sand to my Miracle Gro soil. Succulents are desert plants and the sand mixture helps with drainage to prevent rotting.[图片]Don’t Water You read that right. As soon as your new plants are potted you are going to be tempted to fill up a watering can and finish the job. Instead, wait a week before their first watering in their new pots. This will give them some time to adjust to the new soil, apparently. Then water them about twice a month. Mine are durable, so even if I forget a month or two they happily bounce back when I remember.[图片]Indirect Sunlight Your green succulents will be happy in your home as long as they get enough sun. Don’t keep them in the closet. Put them on a windowsill or a table where they can drink in lots of natural light even when the sun isn’t directly over their pots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Although many cacti and succulents actually like a tight pot, there will come a time when you need to repot, or maybe you just want to take it out of it’s placates pot and put it in something nicer. But how do you know when a succulent or cacti needs repotting? [图片]Here are a few signs: If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.[图片]A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.[图片]How to: 1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot![图片]2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.[图片]3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.[图片]
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.[图片]However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.[图片]Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole. Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole. Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.[图片]Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing. Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.[图片]Tip Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cactus delights the eye with its other-worldly appearance and striking flowers, but it also requires repotting from time to time. This task is often avoided by home gardeners who are generally either unsure how to do it or fear they’ll kill the cactus. But the reality is that repotting cacti isn’t all that difficult.[图片]Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus: Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.[图片]Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.[图片]A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way. Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.[图片]Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used. Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.[图片]Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.[图片]Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.[图片]Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
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